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Found 22 results

  1. Having built a total 14 ship models, I thought it was time to give modelling a rest. However, I saw the kit for the Mary Byrne Admiralty Model by Modellers Shipyard. I have always admired the admiralty models on display in nautical museums for their detail and the quality of workmanship by craftsmen who did not have the sophisticated equipment that we enjoy today. Plus an advantage of the admiralty model is that there is no detailed rigging and the emphasis is on the timber work. If I had looked more closely at the picture of the finished model I might have had second thoughts about buying it (more about that later) but I didn’t and bought it on impulse. Having bought it I had to make it! First impression on opening the box is positive. Good quality looking materials and a comprehensive building manual in A3 size with photos of each stage, but no drawings (not that that should be a problem). The majority of components are in 5mm plywood. The deck planking is laser etched that is normally a negative but in this kit it is done very well with etched nailing and joint details etc. The model is very small that should not have been a surprise as the dimensions were known when I bought it but being small it means lots of small fiddly components. Another challenge. Having made a start assembling the very simple base, making the first frames and placing in position, a few issues have become evident at this early stage. The plywood is 5 ply 5mm thick and it is a challenge to release and press out the laser cut components, especially when small. The components, especially the small ones, have to chiselled out carefully with an appropriate exacto blade. Secondly the part numbers have been laser etched onto each piece. Although small the numbers are going to be unsightly in the finished model so would like to disguise them somehow, or maybe they will be lost in the background. Will wait and see. The major issue however is the cleaning of the laser cut burn from each piece, as many of the edges will be exposed in the finished product. I am cleaning as much as I can each piece as I go (the Dremel is proving very useful) and plan a final clean at later stage. Even when you remove all the burn the plywood veneers are clearly visible – not a good look for an admiralty model. This is a blemish clearly evident in the finished model photo provided with the kit. Will have to think about how to disguise the look of the plywood in the finished model. The first stage is to build the frames forward of the central frame towards the bow. For the information of anybody who might use this log for their project I have come across the first problem with the instructions. Frame A is incorrectly illustrated (being a repeat of frame oXo) that had me bamboozled for a while. A good feature of the kit is that fairing of the frames towards the bow is simplified with the fairing lines etched on to the frames. Easier than fairing the frames after installing them.
  2. I'm well into the build of this model, and although I intended to do a full build log, I held back because Rodger Dodger's log is a hard act to follow. I thought I would just use this as an adjunct to his, showing some of my own ideas and techniques (If you don't mind Rodger?). I wasn't too impressed with the colour of the plywood supplied with the kit, it was a bland, blond and looked nothing like what I imagined a real admiralty model would look like, so I decided to stain the frames and the keel. I used Resene stains, 'Bark' for the frames, and 'Driftwood' for the keel and decks, both thinned 50/50 with water, and I intend to varnish the visible bits later with a satin polyurethane. I've already tried this on the lower deck, and I'm quietly pleased with the effect. I was very conscious of Rodger's advice on getting frame 1 square and plumb, so after giving it some thought, I decided to use a couple of techniques I'd picked up from other members here. I used a pair of lego blocks, blu-tacked to the keel to get the frame square, and by rigging a line from the stem to stern posts, and marking the centre of the frame, I was able to sight down on to the frame, and get it plumb. This took care of the pitch and yaw axes, but the roll axis I did by eye. I would be very grateful of any advice people could give me on how to do this in future. Unfortunately the photo I took of the centering line was too blurred to be on any use. (I never said I was a photographer!). I've used the spacing inserts extensively throughout the framing process, and it worked out quite well as you can see from the above photo, the stern frames appear to be skewed to starboard, but after having a few heart attacks about this, I've found it was caused by a slight warping of the keel. This will get fixed when the deck and whales are put on, at least that's what I'm telling myself. I'll be getting on with the deck now and I'll report back on that later. Oh, as a by the bye, I'm pleased with the kit so far, everything seems to fit, the instructions are superb, and it's been very enjoyable so far (my wife hasn't been subjected to any sailor's foul language, up to now anyway). The only niggle I've got is the 5mm plywood does tend to de-laminate at times, which would need to be fixed if it's visible on the model.
  3. After a short break from the shipyard I have decided to start my next project which is another Modellers Shipyard kit of the Brig Perseverance. The Brig was built for Robert Campbell a Sydney merchant a few short years after the colony of New South Wales was established. She mainly sailed off the coast of south east Australia and southern New Zealand in search of seals for their fur and oil. The Captain of the Perseverance discovered Campbell Island (named after his employer) as well as Macquarie Island (after the then Governor of the Colony of New South Wales). As I have an interest in early Australian colonial history and can still see the old sandstone Campbell Stores building in the Rocks in Sydney I was keen to have a go at this build. First a few obligatory pics of the packaging as well as my very clean shipyard desk! The contents of the box are as expected and other than one sheet of the laser cut ply showing a lot of burn marks (which I'm not too fussed about as I will be painting or covering these parts with mahogany strips) it all looks like good quality fittings. I did order some new rigging rope from Syren as I have not been too happy with the quality provided in previous kit s from Modellers Central....the rope arrived very promptly (thank you Chuck!) and looks fantastic! The instruction booklet is, as usual, very detailed (57 pages) with plenty of photos (129 photos!). More pics to follow....a word of warning to those who want to follow the build progress.......it will be a slow one! Cheers................Fernando
  4. Hi all. First time building a wooden model boat First time on this great forum First time attempting a build log. So please be patient while I learn the ropes and make a start. Feel free to throw some horse blinders over my head if the need be. I had been looking for about six to eight months for a model to build that would satisfy my curiosity and offer me some satisfaction in the process. I didn't want to get a basic or to me, boring, starter kit, so I went for this level 2 kit that looked challenging enough to keep me stimulated without going over the top. It was also visually appealing, Australian, as was the kit manufacturer so it was a no brainer. I was sold on the Perseverance after a YouTube video by a chap in Brisbane whose channel is called Harry Houdini Models. Based out of Brisbane, Harry has a somewhat irreverent view on life which I warm to. Anyway, here is a link to the review that sold me on this kit: I hope I am allowed to put links in like this, please forgive me if not. I started the build in March 21, about a month after I received the kit. I wanted to do a stocktake, as it were, on the parts because I have read many times that there is often a shortfall but in this instance all was as it should be. I can't really comment that much on the quality as I have nothing to compare it with so don't want to be adversely critical about anything that might be ordinarily acceptable. My only observation was thus far was that I seemed to be slightly disappointed with the quality of the wood. I felt the surface of some of the timbers was a tad rough in places, I also noticed that the dimensions varied considerably on some strips varying by as much as 1 or 2 MMs which made it a little tougher when doing the deck planking etc. Again, let me say that this sort of thing may well be the norm. I parted with a few extra shekels to obtain the 3 DVD instructional video which is a tremendous help, BUT, I discovered many inconsistencies between the videos and the manual which greatly confused this old faurt and so I had to resort to emailing the company for clarification on a few things. I was rewarded with extremely prompt and helpful answers which is very endearing. I have been trawlling YouTube videos for tips and tricks for many months so much so that you can easily get confused as some experts might proclaim one methods while another completely poo poos it. In terms of first layer planking I subscribed to Harry Houdini's methodology, have a look at his channel and planking videos. Yet for the second layer I opted for a different method I found on OcCre's website in tutorial videos section. More than one way to skin a cat as they say. OK well, enough of an intro, I will over the weekend attempt to start posting progress pics and if I'm doing anything wrong please let me know.
  5. Hi and welcome to my second build, the brigantine “Matthew Turner” from Modellers Shipyard. I have not yet completed my first build but wanted some variety and experience building a next-level-up model, as it were. A little history about the Matthew Turner: (Taken from Modellers Shipyard website) Launched at Sausalito, California in April 2017 the brigantine Matthew Turner is the largest wooden sailing ship to be built in the San Francisco Bay area in more than 100 years. Built of Douglas Fir and Oregon white oak. The Matthew Turner has a length of 132 feet (40m), a beam of 25feet (7.6m) and a displacement of 175 tons (160 tones) The ship pays homage to the ships namesake, Matthew Turner (June 17, 1825 - February 10, 1909) was an American sea captain, shipbuilder and designer. He constructed 228 vessels, of which 154 were built in the Matthew Turner shipyard in Benicia, California. He built more sailing vessels than any other single shipbuilder in America and can be considered the "grandaddy" of big time wooden shipbuilding in the US Pacific coast. The main inspiration behind building the Matthew Turner was the Turner designed brigantine Galilee, launched in 1891. Galilee spent much of her career as a packet, making swift passages back and forth between San Francisco and South Sea ports. She ended her days on the Sausalito mudflats - Galilee Harbour is named for her - but her stern is preserved at Fort Mason and her stem at Benicia. This model of Matthew Turner is expertly designed with a keel and bulkhead construction. A unique feature of this kit is that it has fairing laser score lines on the bulkheads to make the fairing accurate and symmetrical. All laser cutting is clean and crisp and all parts and fittings are of the highest quality. The English building instructions provide highly detailed step-by-step descriptions supported by colour photos of the model being built. The model is single layer planked. Why did I choose this model? Several reasons: It's a very handsome ship I have a penchant for sail training ships It was from the same manufacturer as the brig Perseverance which I am currently building and I am very happy with the quality of that model. It is a next-level-up (Lv3) which I felt I needed to undertake before immersing myself in the Gorch Fock (Lv4). The support from Modellers Shipyard was/is excellent on my current build. The availability of the 4 DVD set of instructional videos is a huge bonus for this novice builder Because this ship is so new, there is an endless supply of photos, videos and all sorts of reference material available all over the NET It was on sale, yesssssssss :-) Cant say I like the laser etched deck planking, I rather enjoyed doing my own planking. Notice the fairing lines laser cut into some of the bulkheads. I don't know that it is a particularly unique feature as I seem to recall having read about them previously. I have noticed that some of the smaller parts like blocks, pulleys and deadeyes are of a much higher quality than say those supplied with the OcCre Gorch Fock. So that's the kit and I hope to be setting sail with it in the coming week For anyone interested in the real deal, here is an excellent starting point from Call of the Sea
  6. For my second build I have chosen an Australian model, with more detailed instructions than the Corel Flattie. I also bought the instructional video - which seems to have been recorded decades ago but is nonetheless helpful. There seem to be as many different planking techniques as there are skilled model builders. For the first layer I have soaked the planks for a few minutes or hours or overnight, trimmed before or after soaking, then bent using an old hair curling wand. This runs at a slightly low temperature, but minimises burns to my fingers. I have experimented with a variety of clamping techniques, settling on a combination of small spots of CA glue and pins for this layer. I’m currently using timbermate filler and half round file to smooth the surface. It strikes me this stage is really a form of wood sculpture.
  7. After building my first kit, the HM Cutter Mermaid, I decided to go with another of the Australian Colonial series of models from Modellers Shipyard with the Schooner Port Jackson 1803. Kit Contents Check Laser Cut Sheets This time I sorted and labelled all the parts at the start to make it easier to find the bit I need as I built. The Card Parts Organized Drawers Labelled with Parts
  8. Hey all. After the untimely loss of all the data on this site I'm going back and re-doing my build log from the start. This is my first model, the HM Cutter Mermaid 1817. Its part of Modellers Shipyards' Australian Colonial Series of ships. I'll try and remember all the little hiccups I encountered throughout the build as to help others who get this kit make it without the same issues I encountered. I'll work on getting back to where I am on this build tonight on here (luckily I still have all the pictures on my computers) Cheers all Jason Tarr
  9. Hi all, With a little trepidation I'm opening a build log on my HM Cutter Mermaid kit. This is a first build, not counting the hull of an A.L. Swift model I managed to build when I was 13 or so with hardly any tools, expertise, or instructions. I was pretty impressed with myself at the time, but I'm sure it looked appalling. I used to build plastic models back then (planes and ships mostly), and had a couple of model railroads. I've had some fun doing "real sized" projects on my house (furniture finishing, trim carpentry, window restoration) but we'll see if I have any skills that scale down. I'm starting the Mermaid because I've been looking for a nice quiet winter project to putter with in the evenings and on weekends. Job demands can be unpredictable, so I really don't have a feel for the pace I'll work at, but I'm not on any kind of timetable so I'm not worried. Hopefully this log will help keep me on track and be a source of good input. I've already got a lot of questions, but I'll try to pace myself and ask them as I reach them in the build. My workspace is a bit unusual. I've set up a modest little work bench in the corner of a dining room that I had already pretty much taken over as an art studio. I've got a nice sheet of wood clamped to a cheap console table, and I've commandeered several drawers in the china cabinet for tools and supplies. Luckily, I also have a rougher workshop out back where I can do a few things if needed. If the workspace looks freakishly neat in pics, that's partially because having three cats lurking around makes me clean up after each work session! I'm not very far into the build at all, but will post a few catch-up pics shortly to get up to speed. James
  10. Hello All, Welcome to my build log of the HMS Supply. As far as I can tell after searching through this forum this is the only build log of this ship by this manufacturer. Although I think this will build up to a nice model straight out of the box I will be making a few modifications to enhance the kit. A brief history of the ship. The keel of the Supply was laid down 261 years ago on the 1st of May 1759, she was designed by shipwright Thomas Slade as a yard craft for the distribution of naval supplies. Construction was contracted to Henry Bird of Rotherhithe, a Borough of Southwark in the county of Surrey. The vessel, measuring 168 20/94 tons (BM) was to be built in 4 months at a cost of 8.80 English pounds per ton. Actual construction took 5 months, which is a lot shorter time than it will take me, from the time the keel was laid on May 1 to her launch on the 5th of October. As built she was larger than designed at 174 76/94 tons (BM) and with a length overall of 79ft 4in, a beam of 22ft 6in and a hold depth of 11ft 6in. She was commissioned on the 17th of October 1759. She was a square rigged brig with two masts, was armed with four 3lb cannons and six 1/2lb swivel guns and had a crew of 14 while being used as a yard vessel. When converted to an armed tender in 1787, in preparation for her duties with the first fleet, her crew rose to 55 which included marines and she was fitted with four 12lb carronades as extra armament. The Supply left Spithead with the rest of the ships in the first fleet on the 13th of May 1787 under the command of Captain Henry Lidgbird Ball. Supply was under the command of Captain Arthur Phillip, who had transferred to the Supply from HMS Sirius at Cape Town because the Sirius was deemed to slow, when she entered Botany Bay on the 18th of January 1788. After the rest of the fleet arrived and Botany Bay was deemed an unsuitable place for settlement the Supply was the first ship to enter Port Jackson, a few miles up the coast, on the 26th of January 1788 where a settlement was established. HMS Supply served as a tender to the penal colony until the 26th of November 1791 when she sailed for England arriving on the 21st of April 1792. She was sold out of service and used as to carry coal in the Thames area until 1806 when I presume she was broken up. The Kit The kit is well presented with laser cut parts for the bulkheads, keel, false keel and decks. The bulkheads and keel are out of 4mm ply and the decks 2mm ply. The timber strip and dowels for the planking and the masts and spars looks to be of good quality although I can see some damage to the 0.5mm mahogany strips for the second planking. The prefabricated parts such as the windlass, capstan and deck cannons as well as the rigging blocks, rigging cord and other fittings are all presented on three cards. The bottom of the hull is to be coppered so 1300 copper plates are also supplied these look to be of a reasonable quality also. continued in the next post.......
  11. Scare Bleu, yes i know starting another one. As stated I my Endeavour log I am very time poor at the moment, but I need to do something. Something, I can just sit down and model with, and not spend time sorting out what and how to do. A couple of pics it will be done as the kit is, except after looking around it appears, a binnacle needs to be added. Cheers Chris
  12. Hello every-one I'm nearly halfway through my build of the Colonial Brig Perseverance but i thought i would try to put up a rough log up to where i am now . This is a slow build as i have been building it now for close to 2 and a half years . I chose this model because i really liked the look of it and not being very experienced thought i shouldn't have to jump to many hurdles . The kit contents .Not to much to add here . The normal cast parts and laser cut ply pieces . The kit normally comes with mahogany for the second planking but i was able to get the mohogany swapped with Tanganika (the timber used for the prototype) after speaking to Modelers shipyard , the supplier of the kit . I will just add that i found i was some parts short last week and e-mail Modelers Shipyard about this so i could order more and they replaced them at no charge . I know the cost was minimal but to replace the parts after nearly 2 and a half years from purchasing the kit was very pleasing . Thumbs up guys . I have replaced a lot of the ply parts to where i am now but i will mention where as the log progresses . Instructions and plans are pretty straight forward although nothing is to scale on the plans . The deck arrangement says it's to scale but i wouldn't rely on it as i found mine to be out . I have no problem with the supplied timber or the fittings , very happy . Although i am disappointed in the ships boats . Not to sure what I'll do there . The plans very detailed except for the rigging configuration . Looks a bit confusing to me . Next up I'll get into the start of the build . David
  13. Hi all, Thanks to the generous help of MSW member "lister" (Dave) who had saved my entire Build Log of the Norfolk Sloop before the Great Crash of February 2013 I've been able to reconstruct this build log. I haven't included all the comments from the members who were following it, and for that I apologise - that would have been impossible as the posts can only be made by those members. I thank all those who followed my build at the time. I have included a few pertinent quotes that changed the course of how I built the model. My thanks go out especially to John (Jim Lad), Anton (perthshipbuilder), John (Neptune), Jan (amateur) and David (hopeful) for their contributions in making this model as accurately as possible. Below is an "Index to Points of Interest" for those who wish to see a particular stage of the build. Index The Kit Gluing Bulkheads Bow Fillers Pedestal Mounting Nuts Mast Support Blocks Stern Filler Blocks Sheer Strakes Garboard Strakes - 1st Planking Plank Taper Calculations Plank Battens Hull 1st Planking Bending Bulwarks Deck Planking Margin Planks Deck Treenailing Fitting Bulwarks Stem and Keel Dummy Frames Hull Treenail Marking Hull 2nd Planking Garboard Strakes - 2nd Planking Making Treenails Treenailing Hull Making Grating Cap Rails Scuppers Gunwales Channels Grating and Surround Companionway Hull Lacquered Elm Tree Pumps and Windlass Barrels Rudder Mast Bowsprit Gaff and Boom Catheads Fitting Bowsprit Deadeyes and Chainplates Mast Hoops Shrouds Backstays 1 Forestay Topmast Stay Backstays 2 Bowsprit Shrouds Ratlines Fitting the Gaff Boom Stop Sheet Cleats Tiller Throat and Peak Halyards Sheet Horse Boom Sheets Boom Cheeks Jib Rigging Railings Anchors Making Sails Bolt Ropes Robands and Reef Points Fitting Gaff Fitting Jib Model Finished Making the Stand
  14. Hope i am doing all this correct, it is my first build log. First time i worked on a wooden ship sites like this did not exist. This will not be a fast build, my wife will be having back surgery and the grandkids have just moved closer, so please bear with me. I do plan on getting the grandkids a model for them to work on as well, fingers crossed on that one. I have just finished with the dry fit and have now glued bulkhead frames to the keel. Hope you guys like what you see as I move along. I am very much looking forward to seeing my progress as well. Doug
  15. I've finally decided to start on my model after doing some research on this website as well as on other sites. As is custom attached are a couple of photos of the package I got from modellers shipyard which appear to be in good condition and all there. I also bought the "How To Build" dvd and have watched it to get an idea of what I can expect over the coming months of the build. One question I do have already is what do other builders do to "blacken" or "age" the brass fittings that come with the kit (ring bolts etc). Is is better to paint them (if so, any suggestions on what paint to use) or dip them in some solution(mix of vinegar etc). SO here goes......! (PS. I'm not brilliant on technology so apologies in advance if I make a mess of my uploads!)
  16. Hi everyone. Before rushing into buying my kit i first wanted to setup a really good work space, so i built/renovated one.. Kit arrived yesterday - 17 Oct 2013 And did some scratch building of smalll items to get back into fine timber work... I made a shipping crate out of some old timber that has been sitting for many years from dads instrument building years.. (western red cedar) I believe. I found these series of 8 collectors plates and 5000 were made, based of paintings done by an Australian Maratime artist, Dennis Adams (1914 - 2001) He studied at the Royal Acadamy in London. I got one for a good price on ebay and made a local timber "Silky Oak" (from a old house renovation) into a plate stand.. It is good inspiration for the build and will look great with it finished.. I have fitted and tweaked some parts but no glue yet. I am not familiar with the all the terminology as its not only my first build of this calibre and i dont know that much about sailing... I love to learn and am very handy, though i am glad i have you guys to help me out.. i can see many moments of perplexed pondering... Hrs count so far - 1.5 Hrs. Regards Ollie
  17. A recent search on how to 'tie' rigging on model ships brought me to Model Ship World and the wealth of knowledge of its members. The information posted on this web site, along with other sources on the Internet has enabled me to finish my first model ship. So to all of you, 'thanks!!' One thing I did notice was no mention of the ship I built, and only a brief mention of the manufacturer, the Mary Byrne, manufactured by Modellers Shipyard in Australia. So I thought over the next few days (whilst watching the cricket!) I would recount in a build log my experiences with this model. Photo is from the web; my build is not quite that good.
  18. So the order has been placed and I begin the anxious await for the postie to deliver my first kit and 'how to build' DVD.
  19. Hi, this is my first build log. I decided to get into the ship modelling hobby, so I bought the Modellers Shipyard started kit, that includes the HM Cutter Mermaid, a set of basic tools, and a beginners guide to ship modelling in e-book and DVD. On the picture you can see the unboxed model kit and the tool set. I took a step further and decided to add later the sails to the model, so I also bought sail cloth, the sail plans, and an instructional DVD on the topic.
  20. Hello Everyone, I have finally got around to start to reconstruct the build log for the Norfolk I had on the old site. I have done a search on this site and found that there are no current or completed build logs for the model on this site, that is if I have done the search right . I will endeavour to make this log as comprehensive as possible and hope it asssits anyone wishing to or currently building this model. I also wish to declare that a lot of the techniques and ideas I used were taken from an excellent and very instructive build log of this model, on the old site, by Dan Vad who also offered me a lot of advice during the build . Alright now for a little bit of history of the Sloop. She was built on Norfolk Island in 1798, designed probably on a decked long boat from HMS Sirus, she was subsequently confiscated when she sailed into Sydney Harbour as it was against Governor Hunter's orders to construct boats on Norfolk Island that Convicts could sieze and escape in. She was then fitted out, on the Governor's orders, and given to Lieutenant Matthew Flinders, accompanied by George Bass, to explore south to see if Tasmania, then Van Diemans Land was an island or not, having proved it to be an island she returned to Sydney to prepare for another voyage to the north, reaching as far as Hervy Bay in Queensland. She ended her days in 1800 after being wrecked in the mouth of the Hunter river in a storm after bieng siezed by Convicts in the Hawkesbury River, how ironic!! I started this build back in March 2011 and ther have been a few breaks in the build but I am happy to say I have been back building now for a couple of months and hope to continue until the completetion of the model. Following are some photos of the kit. Please excuse the quality as they were taken on a mobile phone as my digital camera at the time was having issues with my computer or visa versa Sorry about my foot in the first photo I will post some more photos of the start of the build tomorrow
  21. This is my second attempt at a wooden model ship after failing miserably several years ago - basically as I had no idea what I was doing and the kit I attempted had very poor instructions. I chose the Colonial Brig Perseverance for two reasons: According to the guys at Modellers Shipyard, it's not too complex and ideal for a beginner, and It comes with a 3 DVD set showing a "master model maker" construction the model from start to finish. This really appealed to me as at the time I began, I had not discovered Model Ship World and really needed some guidance. Here is the DVD cover and a photo of the completed model (not mine!) As I am a new modeler its difficult for me to comment on the quality of the kit although the timber certainly does not seem to be as high quality as the timber in the Corel Unicorn kit that I started some time ago. The limewood planking varied considerably in thickness meaning a lot of sanding on the first layer of planking but I don't know if this the norm or not. Also, the silver ash deck planking varied considerably in width with some pieces 3mm, some 4mm and some 5mm wide. Again, is this generally normal or not for a kit???? Unfortunately I started the model before I discovered MSW and therefore I don't have any photos of the early stages of construction. I bought myself an Amati keel holder which has been very helpful. The bulkheads all fitted nicely to the keel and the fairing process although it seemed to take forever went smoothly. Fitting the false deck also was a breeze. As I am sure most beginners find, the first four or five planks went on very easily and I thought to myself, "this isn't hard at all", but soon I was needing to taper planks and to bend them laterally which I found rather challenging especially around the transom and onto the deadwood area. I only needed a couple of stealers and made them (like wedges) as per the DVD instructions but I have since learned that tapering them to a sharp point is not really authentic. I guess it won't matter for the first planking. I used one of those Amati plank benders which crimp the planks to illicit the bend and it worked just fine but I found that later when I came to sanding the planking that the crimps showed through. Perhaps I am not using it properly and squeezing to hard??? Anyway, after several nights, I finished the planking. Overall I was fairly happy with the result as there weren't many hollows or gaps to fill although I did need to fill a little where the planks transitioned from the hull to the deadwood as I was getting a bit of "clinker" effect. Not sure how I should overcome this??? I made a big mistake of using a mixture of undiluted white glue and sawdust from the sanding to fill this area however when it dried it was so hard that I had to sand it for ages and ages to get it down to a smooth finish. I also sanded too heavily on one side where the planks bend around the tuck to the transom. I realize now that this was because in the DVD, the instructor crimps the timber to make the bend but then files it to about 1/2 its original thickness. I didn't take this into account when I started sanding and before I realized, made a nice little hole in the planking. I still need to give the whole hull another sanding but will wait to do this until I finish the deck planking and a few other little jobs. I really enjoyed planking the deck apart from having to color in all the deck edges using a 6B pencil. Because the deck planking is only 0.6mm thick I found that it kept cutting the pencil lead off. Although the instructions call for laying the decking in one long length, I decided to cut them into 100mm lengths to get a more authentic look. I came unstuck because all the planks were of various widths and therefore I had to try plank after plank until I found one that matched the already glued plank perfectly in width. Next time I will keep each cut plank together with the others that come from the same length to avoid this problem. Another thing that seemed odd was that the instructions called for installing mahogany strips to the inside of the bulwark which I duly performed and then the installation of the deck. I had to cut and sand all of the edge planks very accurately so that there were no gaps between these planks and the lining of the bulwark. I would have thought that it would be easier to install the lining to the inside of the bulwark after the deck planking has been laid as it will cover up any small gaps. Is this generally the correct order to do these two tasks??? One thing that is troubling me is that the instructions state that I should epoxy the stern post, stem post and keel to the hull after I finish the second layer of planking. I note that in many of the build logs on MSW these items are fixed after the first layer and then the second layer of planking is butted up against them. This makes more sense to me. Any advice greatly appreciated??? So this is where I am up to and where I will commence adding photos and no doubt asking lots more questions. I have included some photos of my model below. Its a bit rough but I am hoping that my second layer of planking will be much better and hide all of the mistakes I made in the first. Thanks in advance for any hints and advice.
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