Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Norwegian sailing pram'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT** 
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Non-ship/categorised builds
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 21 results

  1. Here we go with the Norwegian Pram by Model Shipways. The first several steps cover both the bow and stern transoms and knees, and go back and forth between the two. I am going to do one transom at a time so I can keep my parts straight, bow first. I cut out the knee and sanded off the char. Then I cut out the bow transom from the parts board and sanded/filed the necessary spots. The next step was to draw a midline, then draw two more lines the width of the knee apart. After struggling with the small transom and a pencil and a ruler, I realized that it would be a lot easier to draw these lines onto the transom while it was still in the parts board. I tried this with the spare transom, and it worked great. It's helpful to extended the lines past the laser lines to use them as sight lines when gluing the knee. After drawing the lines, I cut the transom out of the board, sanded the extra "connection" bits, then put it back in the board. I glued the knee to the transom, using the extended lines on the parts board to line it up. The picture in the instructions show the appearance of the knee when it's glued, and that indicates which of the "legs" of the knee to glue to the transom (the shorter one). Ignoring the stern transom instructions, I went to step 3, finishing the bow transom. Bevel each facet as flat as possible, removing the char, and using the far edge and the marked bevel line as your guides. I took a little too much off where the knee meets the transom, but the rest looks pretty good. I found it hard to make the straight-ish lines of the contour as shown in the instructions. Drilling the hole through the transom and the knee: my pin vise drill bits aren't marked (which one is #55?), so I selected the one that fit in the hole in the transom. I put tape around the knee to help prevent tear-out, after seeing in another build log that tear-out was a potential issue. I went really slowly, and it came out pretty well, although the hole is just a touch off center in the knee. Next: returning to the start of the instructions to follow the stern transom steps.
  2. Any tips on smoothing out the hard angles along the garboard and second plank along the port side? Starboard side faired well and has a pleasing curve from stem to stern. These were caused from the planking jig and I didn't notice until I took the hull off and started to sand. I did prebend all the planks and they fit without force prior to glueing so I really don't know why this happened.
  3. Slow start on the Pram. On the beginning, I was a little confused about the beveling of the transoms. I just couldn’t visualize it until I went through past build logs (that I had read earlier but didn’t have the question then). The bevel guide took a minute for me to figure out. Placing the stern knee on the lower stern transom, I noticed the knee extended further then the image in the instruction manual. I’m back to the trusted past build logs looking for the perfect image I need to see. Now I need to purchase a bench vice before I begin to bevel the transoms and drill through the bow knee.
  4. After having finished the Grand Banks Dory (link to build log in signature), I'm trying my hand at the next model in the series. I expect updates for this log are going to be more sporadic than I would like, because I'm slated to be sailing for most of the time from March through October, but I'll work on this when I can. Started with unboxing and getting a sense of the parts. I can't help but feel a little intimidated, but then the dory looked scary before I started it too.
  5. IMPORTANT NOTICE DOWNLOAD ALL THE PDF MANUALS FROM THE MODEL EXPO WEBSITE AND PRINT PLANS YOU NEED. ALL THE 1:1 PLANS IN THE PAPER INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE THREE KITS ARE WRONG. (NOT EXACTLY 1:1) CHECK THAT THE PRINT SCALE OPTION IS DEFAULT OR 100%. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ While I was frustrated that I lost the figurehead of the Papegojan, I tried another kit to recover my mind. I have no complaint about this kit is perfect start for beginners. Unfortunately, I found some minor errors, such as wrong laser cut or inappropriate plan size on the manuals, so I'll leave only a few short pics to help other builders. The plans in the instructions are downsized. I scanned it and enlarged it to 102.9%. I guess that the prototype sample by the professor is different from the mass production version. It is a simple tip to make my life better. This is a critical error. The guiding line on one side of the planks goes inside because both plank sheets are identical. I would say that the kit manufacturer forgot to reverse the opposite sheet. The risers goes here. The Lowell Grand Banks Dory is done!
  6. This will be my third build. My first build was the 18th Century Long Boat by Model Shipways (Finished). I then started the Rattlesnake by the same company and realized I was over my head. The manufacturer then came out with the Shipwright series and I thought it would be good to go through the series. My second build was the Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Finished), first in the Shipwright Series. For this second model in the Shipwright Series, I purchased the entire Shipwright Series Bundle from Model Shipways. I now have another Dory but might be fun to get back to the basics down the road. The sailing pram does not come with ship plans but the instructions reference Mr. Simon Watts website to acquire the plans. The plans are for the full-sized boat but the model was designed off of these plans so can't get much better than that right? Well, you are unable to purchase the plans from the provided link. I think I saw somewhere that Mr. Watts passed away and the family has not maintained the download. However, after a little more research, I was able to find a site I can purchase Mr. Watt's plans. I was able to acquire the plans here: https://www.woodenboatstore.com/products/norwegian-pram-plans-and-book-digital?variant=17247483723866
  7. This will be my second model. I built the Lowell Grand Banks Dory First. I have not built any models in many years and wanted to start with something simple. The instructions for the Dory were great. i hope it goes as well for the Pram. Every thing was present on an inventory of the Kit. It was a bit difficult sanding the bevels on the different edges (faces? or some other term I don't know) of the bow transom. The pictures in the manual show the transom being sanded with a big fat sanding stick. That did not work so well as each edge is pretty small. I made some thin ones-- and that worked much better. The scribed lines are thin and the edges are pretty small. I found it much easier to see what I was doing with some head mounted magnifiers that were left over from soldering surface mount electronic components in the past. These things are are my new best friends! Building the board for the molds was straight forward. The tabs on them need a bit of sanding to be fully seated int the slots. I tried to use steam to bend the keel plank but it did not seem to work. I am not sure how long you hold the plank over the steam to get it to bend. The manual says its possible to use a thermostatically controlled soldering iron. I have one of those but was not sure how hot it should be and I was afraid to use it. I finally used the same technique that worked well on the Dory and just soaked it in hot water for 5 minutes and used rubber bands to gently bend the plank to the molds. I am going to let it dry out and rest overnight. Apologies for my photography, and any mistakes uploading the images, This is my first time trying this and I'm not sure I am doing it correctly 8E9C8AD3-DE18-42BA-89F6-7E73D215357D.heic
  8. Following some encouragement in the new member introduction post Decided it was time to start a build log here. I already completed the Lowell Grand Banks Dory which I’m quite proud of. The Pram will be my second model, and in fact only the second model I’ve ever attempted of any kind. Let’s get into it. Day 1 was a simple matter of beveling the bow and stern transoms as described in the instructions. Just like the dory, I’m impressed with the detail provided and find it very useful. I also attached the knees and drilled a hole as directed through the bow transom knee. There was a little bit of tearing out, but I pieced the splinters back in place and glued them back down. Day 2 involved assembling the build board. I took the helpful advice of Ryland Craze given in the build log by Zack Soderquist and added some scrap to the board so that the transoms would sit flush. All added pieces are 3/64 thick. You can see that I also had to add some tape to make the stern transom support fit snugly, without the need for glue. Disaster struck after this picture was taken and I broke the thinnest part of the stern transom support, something I saw commonly happen in other logs and which I was trying to avoid. A little gluing back together and it works fine. Day 3 saw sanding and bending of the bottom boards. I treated them exactly like the Dory, soaking and bending over the frames with elastics. Those are now set to dry overnight. That brings me pretty much up to present. I decided to bend the keel board after the bottom boards because it’s going to lay on top of them anyway, counter to what the instructions say. I also can already tell I’m going to have a gap between the stern transom and the keel board so I’ll try to sand the notches a little deeper before gluing the bottom boards in place. I may also consider adding a little spacer between the bow transom knee and the keep board to fill up the gap that’s going to be present there.
  9. Build 2 of the 3 part series Become A Shipwright of Old. Norwegian Sailing Pram. Kit number MS1471 The Grand Banks Dory was completed on March 20th, 2023. The build log for that is in other places of course. The Dory The Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack build The plan is to learn and build my way into a larger project with some skill and confidence to make it turn out well. So far the learning has been useful. This kit is a bit more complicated. But it does look like fun. I bought the full size real plans from Simon Watts, they did help answer many questions about how to build. The plans were $30 and were a pfd download with the rights to print the 3 full size sheets actual size, a local printer shop would be needed. It was well worth the $30 to get a great idea how to do certain parts. Started on March 18th, 2023.
  10. This is kind of my second build, I finished the ‘Lowell Grand Banks Dory’ and got about half way through the ‘18th Century Long Boat’ both by Shipways when I decided to shift to this boat the ‘Norwegian Sailing Pram’. This is the second in a beginner series of “progressive model tutorials” designed by David Antscherl. I did learn a lot about wooden ships and how to build wooden models from the Dory. I decided to shift sails when I noticed that the Pram was finally for sale by Model Shipways and I thought I could use the additional learning experience especially rigging. The Long Boat rigging is supposed to be fairly simple but the Pram rigging looked even simpler. One thing I’ve noticed is that the instructions for these ‘beginner’ models seem to assume the builder knows a fair amount of how to build a model boat. In my years I’ve built many plastic models but not wood models and I’m really a novice. So, I’m keeping track of recommendations to improve the instructions as I progress through this build. First, I’ve notice that the Pram instructions are missing a lot of instruction points that could easily be corrected with a few annotated pictures and plans. I strongly recommend that a set of scaled plans be included in the kit. The only plan is the one below that is from a real pram design. Even though the Dory was a simple boat to build, I used the plans constantly to figure out things that were not written in the instructions.
  11. And we're off! Tried the Dory but simply could not get the stern straight. Hands shake too much I guess. I did a fairly good job on the Niagara until I got to the rigging, So I'm comfortable trying this.
  12. Hello everyone, I'm back with my second build - the Model Shipways Norwegian Sailing Pram. This is the second model in the Model Shipways Shipwright series designed by David Antscherl. I have to say I've been looking forward to this build after completing the Dory as it gives me the opportunity to work with some metal parts, a mast, rigging, and a sail. There are quite a few build logs on here for this model so I'll just get right to it. I've made a decent start so far and have made it through step 5 where the transoms are mated with the building board. Using a Lego block to align the bow transom knee. The bow transom seated in the bow transom holder. The stern transom seated in the transom holder. Its slightly wonky but instructions say only to glue in the bow transom holder. I imagine this is to make it easier to remove later on. I'll have to pay extra attention here we the planking starts going on to make sure everything is aligned. The current state of the build with the two transoms seated in the building board with forward and midship molds. Anyway, that's all I've done so far. Its been pretty easy and I've enjoyed it.
  13. Ready to start build number 2 the Pram, interesting little sailing ship. Did the inventory, missing one nail so not bad. I did see a problem with the lower stern transom. It looks like the laser etch for the bevel got a little wonkey. I am wondering is it worth a email to Model Ship ways for a new one or could this work? I think I can scribe across and should be fine. I looked at the other build logs and it looks doable. We will see.
  14. I am beginning my second build and plan on going slow to hone my skills. I see from the initial instructions that I will be buying a couple more tools.
  15. I'm just starting my SECOND model ... the Norwegian Sailing Pram. As a rank beginner, I learned alot from my first build (the Lowell Grand Banks Dory), but this one looks even more complex and challenging! So I first read several of your Build Logs here, and I'm glad I did. Found out my instruction manual was printed at less than 100%, so I downloaded and printed the appropriate pages (p 4, 5, 39) from the Model Shipways pdf, specifying 100% on my printer. Worked out well. (As an FYI, the "foot" of the sail pattern is supposed to measure 6". In my manual, it was only 5 3/4", so my new printout is now correct.) I also learned from the logs to do an Inventory check. Sure enough, mine was missing two oar locks. Called Model Shipways and they were really great, and will mail me the missing parts. But now I have questions on tools. I only have the initial tool set from the Dory, but the instructions show a longer list of tools required. I know I need drills and files, but it also mentions "hard metal flush cutting shears", bench block, miter box, broach (what are these used for?), and mini plane? Any advice on which tools I really need? Thanks and looking forward to getting started!
  16. After completing the Lowell Grand Banks Dory I have moved to the 2nd in a series of progressive model tutorials, the Norwegian Sailing Pram, designed by David Antsherl. I learned a lot through my mistakes and I know this next effort will be another fun experience.
  17. I have recently begun the Pram build, and thought I would log the build. I am watching SkiBee's build log (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25495-norwegian-sailing-pram-by-skibee-model-shipways-scale-112/) as well. I find the build board and forms are too thin. The board warps with a few rubber bands on the hull, and the supports tend to bend and do not like to remain vertical to the build board. Also, I should have removed char from the build forms as they leave residue on the planks, which I find unsightly. I had the stern transom holder break twice. The first time I reinforced with super glue; the second I added supports, which can be seen in the photos. The stern transom was a bit loose, but it was manageable. The bow transom holder was a bit loose, but I managed to firm it up by inserting some folded paper into the holder slot. The bow holder is glued to the base. I was told by one of the Model Expo reps via email that the laser etched bevel lines are on the wrong side of the planks; however, I decided to continue using the planks with the bevels line on the upper outside, even though the planks angles are reversed at the ends. There seems sufficient length to give an acceptable result. One of the garboards has a real scale 1.5 inch split, so I had to request a replacement. I am considering planking one side while the replacement ships. Photo soon
  18. First of all, thanks to those that welcomed me in my New Member Introductions post. The warm welcomes are appreciated. Well, after almost two weeks of waiting on the shipping, my ships have come in! The two ships I ordered, the Norwegian Sailing Pram and the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, arrived on Friday. I have begun working on the Norwegian Sailing Pram first, of course, as this will be my first build in the ship modeling world. Hope I do as well as SkiBee and JohnN, as I read their build logs and will be referring back to those logs as I encounter my own "bumps in the road". I appreciate any feedback and advice as I sail forward... Thanks...
×
×
  • Create New...