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Showing results for tags 'OcCre'.
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With the Santisima trinidad build finished It's time to start on the cross section, also a kit from occre I will be building it in the same style i've done the full ship, matching the weathering and overall look Kit will be bashed and several additions to hopefully improve it, many of those additions inspired on the @md1400cs build- 36 replies
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A brief introduction - This is not my first kit but, the first attempt I feel confident in showing to others. As mentioned in other posts on this Forum there is a lot of plywood and coarse grained timber planking supplied. Also some good quality fittings so overall I am happy with materials and plans supplied (I also have plenty of research material and, a well stuffed spares box). Assembled keel. Very slight warp which will ease into position later.Supplied stem, rudder and stern (poor plywood) being replaced with 5mm lime sheet from spares box. I intend fixing these pieces to keel before ribs and lower deck are fitted. -
after seeing the hms terror build logs on here especially keith s build i made a start. have always had a fascination with the story of the north west passage and when occre released this it was a must despite the compromises with the kit. frames glued in place but deck still loose. also glued in the filling pieces between frames at bow and stern building slip to help keep the keel straight while planking don't know when next update will be as Victory taking priority at the mo! Take care all keith -
while i am still working on my HMS Terror i could not resist buying/ starting this one. Have had an interest in Endurance since first reading about Shackletons exploits and seeing the footage of the ships destruction in the pack ice. There is an excellent review of the kit on this forum and as it mentions some upgrading will be needed to make it more accurate. so far have got her as far as the first planking stage (i planked from the midship ply former down tapering planks right from the start at the bow then planked upwards) . I must admit what a joy planking this hull after occres Terror! i also did not plank the decks yet as opposed to instructions , i will drill and dowel the decks formers in place and sand down before decking is added for extra strength in the hull. Keith
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So this is my first build of a legit model ship. I bought a Chinese knock off to make sure I would be into making a wooden model ship because I have done lots of car models as a kid but it's been 15 years since I did one. Either way looking forward to getting into this new hobby because I want a better outlet then video games and youtube because it's a waste of mental health. Either way hope everyone enjoys my log as much as I will and looking forward to sharing my experience with everyone!! P.S. props to OcCre for an amazing model kit with such detail in the instructions. -
So, I’ve bitten the bullet and plumped for a model of HMS beagle by OcCre. Having done the Bluenose 2, I’m now looking to have a go at an older ship, and one with some square rigging. It was a toss up between the Beagle or the Endurance, with both ships having fantastic history attached to them. Out of the box, things look pretty good. -
Hello there! Sorry for taking so long this building log. I worked on the ship during the spare time I have and there is my progress (and some comments for my problems and solutions. Here we go. Problem here: as you can see I glued wrongly one at the bow, since it wasn’t a big deal y fixed it with a bit a sanding, lets hope it didn’t come on a bigger mistake. Nevermind now, lets continue. You can’t appreciate from the picture, but there are three small mistakes of cutting too much, but I fixed somehow with spare bits of the wood after cutting the form, it’s hardlyt noticeable unlees you search for it (and in futher building even more hard to nitice). Time for some walls and doors. After this point I made a little stop. I took my time to reorginze mi “work station”. Maybe I will update later with a photo of my little corner.- 10 replies
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Boa noite a todos, Hello everyone, i'm starting the Polaris, the first model ship in this hobby. I made my presentation some months ago and todat i decided to start working on this project. Step by step. There are many Polaris sailing in this forum and this one is going to be part of it hehe. I already made the first progress. In the last picture, nothing is glued. Only for the photo. 😎 -
The Essex was an American whaling sailing ship that was attacked and sunk by a sperm whale in 1820. Her demise is the most famous incident of its kind and served as the historical template for Herman Melville's novel Moby Dick. Length: 27 m Start: 1799 Weight: 238 tons Width: 7.32 m² Draft: 3.96 m² Shipyard: Nantucket, Massachusetts, USA -
I bought this ship few months ago as always wanted to have classic galleon. Again after vacational San Juan wanted something not big but impressive. Again I wanted to custimize my ship as it's just generic galleon with Black Flag attached so I decided to made some modifications to give a bit of individuality: - made gunports for chase guns on stern transom, - made visible partial interior of rear superstructure room with 2 guns, gratings and ammo stashes, - made bow pursuit guns, - exchange full gallery balustrade into baluster based balustrade, - change of ornamentations and I have big desire to print resized mini painting printed in color on upper stern transom. Here I probably use widely known art from book of Howard Pyle. Also ornaments printed on laser printer do not convince me in any way. In Spanish Galleons by Angus Konstam I saw few colorful examples which are inspiration. I await for his two books Buccaneers and Pirate Ships. - change of position of few guns in rear superstructure. gunport is temporarly mounted 🙂 gratings placed only for photo -
Relative new-comer to the hobby posting my first build log. Have long had an interest in building a wooden ship model (after a misspent youth spent on plastic models and scratch-building HO scale railway structures) and the corona slowdown seemed just the right opportunity. I started with the Dusek Knarr model (1:72 scale) and learned a lot from that (ie. made lots of mistakes that I hopefully learned from.) For my second model I was able to track down one of Occre's Buccaneer models. For whatever reason, I didn't find any build logs of this one in the forum despite the apparent popularity of Occre as a manufacturer. So here I am, hopefully committing to keeping up with the build-log as I move forward. Fair warning, I'm sure i have lots of new learning experiences ahead of me on this one and progress will likely be slow. While the virus has me working from home for my main job, my volunteer gig as mayor of my town is more than making up for it! So, to begin, the start of my project in a quiet corner of the house where it can, hopefully, live undisturbed! -
Hello, and welcome to my second build log in the MSW forums. The Ship The ARM Cuauhtémoc BE-01 is the Mexican Navy’s sail training ship. Her keel was laid in 1981, and she is still in service, sailing around the world every year in cruceros de instrucción—the last phase of the cadet training program which requires at least 20,000 nautical miles on board. She is also known as the Ambassador of the Seas and the Knight of the Ocean, and in her many years of service she has frequently participated in sailing races and other international events. Her mission and motto is “the exaltation of seamanship spirit”. The ARM Cuauhtémoc is named after the last emperor of the Mexícatl Empire (otherwise known as the Aztecs) of central Mexico, tortured and murdered by the Spaniards after the fall of his nation. To this day, he is honored and recognized and Cuauhtémoc is still a popular baby name in Mexico. Cuauhtémoc is a steel-hulled tall ship with a single-propeller auxiliary engine. Her sail plan is that of a bric-barca (three-masted barque). Her crew is comprised of 186 including officers, and up to 90 cadets. The Man I have extensively researched for this project. My sources range from informal chats with the ship’s crew and officers all the way to the Veracruz Naval Museum and the Secretariat of the Navy. All photographs in this log are my own, be it the real ship or the model. Over the last five years I have had the pleasure and honor to be on board the Cuauhtémoc several times, and I have witnessed various official events and ceremonies. On my seventh time aboard I got this coin from the crew. The Plan This is a 1:100 scale model kit of limited edition sold by Salvat and designed and manufactured by OcCre. It is based on the design and plans of the Deutsche Marine Gorch Foch. Like the real-life counterpart, both ships share the same heritage and blueprints. Among their notable relatives are the USCGC Eagle and the NE Sagres III. ARM Cuauhtémoc’s sister ships are ARC Gloria, BAE Guayas and ARBV Simón Bolívar. I am following the provided instructions around 50% of the time. The kit is really lacking in some aspects, and the instructions themselves are sometimes vague or ambiguous, sometimes inconvenient and sometimes outright wrong. It appears as if it was not thoroughly researched. In this respect, the similarities to the Gorch Foch show up and are not welcome. In order to keep this project as authentic as possible, a fair amount of kitbashing and adapting might be necessary.- 17 replies
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Hi there. This is my first post on this forum so apologies for any missteps... From what I can see this is an Occre/Artesania Latina kit and it seems to be sort of a generic build as I haven't been able to locate any references to a ship that existed under this name. This is my second kit, the first one being a Mantua kit that was a disaster and I abandoned. I've never done any sort of woodworking or model work so this is all pretty new to me. I bought this kit back in December 2017 and have been working on it with small breaks since then. At the time of posting this I have already finished most of this structure. Regarding this kit: Good points: - Ideal beginner's kit that is not too hard but provides enough of a challenge. Bad points: - Illustrated instruction booklet is terrible. It's 8 pages of inconsistent, vague and saturated colour images that in some instances cause confusion. - There is inconsistency with the parts illustrated and in some cases the measurements of small parts which is very frustrating In my endeavour to experiment and develop my skills a bit, I tried to weather the deck but I fumbled and ended up blotching the deck with black ink. I had to resort to sanding it to remove most of the stains but with limited success. In addition I decided to replace the metal launch boat provided with my own scratch build. On to the anchors next. Some pictures attached. -
I am late to the terror party but I figured I’d add my build log to the pile and see what happens. Bulkheads went up easy and the deck was pleasing to build. I penciled in the caulking. The YouTube videos show some sanding after this but it just seemed to smear my pencil around so I aborted this plan. Sprayed with satin urethane. Then set out to label all the parts. One huge difference between ship and plastic models (at least for this one) is the “parts” list seems to be all the parts you need for each sub-assembly and not a straight list of parts in the kit. I seem to go back and forth between that list and the directions constantly. I also seem to have a brown E8 for whatever reason. Thanks I guess? -
After spending the last couple of months gathering tools, and more importantly, information, I feel comfortable enough to start a build log. HMS Terror is my first try at wooden model ship building, though I have had plenty of experience working with plastic kits, as well as working with wood on a somewhat larger scale. Next to build logs on this site and elsewhere, in a variety of languages, I studied Occre's tutorial videos and finally, when the ship arrived as an early Christmas present, the plans. Honestly speaking, the plans took some figuring out , as I'm used to Tamiya kits plans which are detailed to the extreme. On the other hand, the way these plans are made up really presses hime the idea that "I'm going to build this!" In a later stage I will need somme assistance on the rigging schemes provided, but we're a long way away from that. hundreds of questions, but one which needs to be addressed before I even take out the bulkheads: when opening the box, I found all parts present, packed neatly, and of good quality (learning what to look for in other logs). However, the false deck and keel have a small warp: Not sure the picture does it justice, but you can see the edge of both sticking out. In all fairness, the warp is smaller than the with of the plywood, and very easily straightened. So my question: does this need to be corrected before I assemble the hull? I read in Mastini's book that the hull parts are critical and must be in perfect condition, but this seems so small? Also, when correction is needed, I assume putting both parts in warm water to soak and then squeezing them between two straight (and heavy) objects will correct them, but how long does the wood need to stay in the water? And how long before the weights can be removed? For reference, the false keel is 3mm, the false deck 2mm. Warp on both is about the size of the plywood itself, 3mm and 2mm respectively. Thnx in advance for your guidance! -
Reflections on the kit and build: I thought it might be more useful for others, who might be thinking about building this kit, to write a short summary about my experience, and put it in this first post so it is easier to find. First off this kit is meant for first time builders, which I am, and I think they got it right. Its detailed picture-based instructions and the accompanying videos make it very clear how to build everything. There is no guesswork involved. I had only a few moments with the final sail rigging where the instructions were a little too brief but even then the videos helped fill in the slight gaps. The quality of the kit was also very good except for the deck planking strips but for my level of building that is a nitpick. However, the thing that I most liked about the kit is its level of difficulty; it was definitely challenging but not overwhelming. I felt that the time put into the build (which was 77 hours for me) was truly well spent. It really has a bit of everything so that when I now look at other more advanced builds I have a good appreciation of what level of attention and effort is required to achieve good results (which is actually very humbling). The other thing about the kit is that it's fairly forgiving with mistakes. I made a bunch of them and didn't executed things as well as I might have hoped but the design and relative simplicity of the boat is forgiving enough that you still end up with a good looking vessel. All in all I'm very please with the experience. It has whetted my appetite for more and that is a good result for a beginner's kit. Now back to the actual build log. Enjoy.... Another first time builder here, attempting to build OcCre's beginner kit: Polaris. I know nothing about ships or their historical accuracy and such, just want to get my feet wet and the Polaris seems like a decent enough kit to start out with. [There is a MSW review of the kit: here] I've managed to assemble the bulkheads/ribs to the false keel. This was relatively simple using small metal angle plates with clamps to get each rib square using Titebond II: I have to say there was quite a bit of play in the joints and while I did get the ribs square to the sides of the false keel, I wasn't paying attention to making it square along the top: And you can see that false keel has a slight bend too. However, I'm thinking it's not a problem as tolerances for mounting the deck shouldn't be that demanding. Well, I hope so. Currently working on the decking: Again using Titebond for glueing the deck planks rather than using contact glue per the instructions. I'm able to get a thin bead of PVA onto both the plank and deck, using the dispensing bottle shown in the picture above, and smooth it over with a small brush to avoid beads of excess glue forming. Working out really well. I get down 2 or 3 planks at a time and then use heavy books to press the planks while they set. Not so happy about the planks themselves. They have a lot of large grain criss-crossing them and I think ruin whatever scale effect the planks might have had to begin with. Not really a problem as I'm not looking to create a realistic model this time out. I'll be glad to just have something that doesn't look like a dog's dinner at the end of all this! -
Hello, after finishing Le Renard I decided to make my own version of popular Occre's Polaris schooner. Kit is really wonderful and allows for many modifications as for my information didn't represents any real ship but it's just more a generic schooner. Very cute schooner what should be added. My plan is as follow: - arming her with at least 10 guns with maybe 2 stern chase guns although I will must to modify her stern for gunports ( not many space for two guns ) Polaris is bigger than HMS Pickle which was armed with 8 carronades so 10-12 guns with slightly lower weight should be possible I think, - stacks of cannonballs near guns, - mounting lifeboat on deck, - rerigging ship into topsail schooner which will require some modifications in rigging, - some experiments with gratings, - possible other modifications. Did on XVIII-XIX century ships pirate/corsair/merchant raiders was practised hiding of guns/disguising of armament like on XX'th century both World Wars Armed Merchant cruisers from Germany or Entente/Allied Q-ships? I wonder about rotary carronade on the middle of the deck like I saw on few models ( it was not heavy mortar on bomb ships for sure ) and I wonder how logical it could be? Didn't such corsair/raider could be overweight due to this? Asking seriously. I made and glued skeleton of Polaris which was pleasurable as everything fit very good. I decided to change a little order and place deck to the skeleton first instead planking deck first. Some reinforcements near frames to keep strenghtened structure. Probably unnecesery but it didn't hurt. I made lines of false keel and frames for mounting deck and laying king plank.
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Finally ready to do this build log . I attempt to keep it all short and to the point . Received HMs Beagle , opened up to check the contents and condition. Checked to see if there was any damage or anything had warped during the packaging , transport etc . All seemed ok -
Thought I'd throw my hat in to the growing number of logs for this ship - I guess the more the merrier! I'm a little late to start a log - I started building in late February doing 2-3hrs work most days. I would guess I've put in the best part of 100hrs so far. This is my very first wood model ship. I've done a lot of Metal Earth type models over the past year or so, including a few ships such as PieceCool's very decorative Wind Breaker and Black Pearl This has given me a lot of experience at working at a small scale so I hoped this skill-set would help with building a wooden ship. So decided to opt for an ambitious first build of the Beagle. The scientific significance of ship was also very appealing to me. This choice was also heavily swayed by the availability of OcCre's YouTube step by step build videos. And these have indeed turned out to be an invaluable resource. Here's another excellent online resource I found for visualizing the ship: https://www.cloudtour.tv/beagle/. There are some differences in the OcCre ship compared to the virtual model in the details - but the general layout out of both versions are very similar. I only have a few pics from early in the build, just after the first planking. As you can see in these pics I was concerned about being able to remove the pins after the glue had dried. So I made myself a whole bunch of small rectangular washers from cereal box cardboard. These worked really well - you could push the pins in all the way with a pin-pusher so it holds the wood down securely. Then when dry, the pins could be easily removed by sliding a flush cutter under the cardboard washer and pulling out. You'll also see in these pics I opted to go for the more traditional way of tapering the planks along the whole length rather than the way OcCre suggest of using full width planks then inserting triangular sections to fill the gaps. I'm not sure there is any advantage to my way over OcCre's way other than it may have given me more useful experience for future builds. For bending the planks I used one of these: https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/amati-form-a-strip-am7381.html. In my research I've seen many people say not to use these - but I found them really useful and made bending the planks easy and quick. The only thing is you can't use them if the inside of the bend is going to end up visible as you end up with a bunch of indentations on the inside. For the deck planking and second hull planking I highly recommend the way they do it in the OcCre videos using contact cement. I was a bit nervous about using that method as I was afraid that as soon as I attached the plank it would adhere and would not be moveable to adjust and close gaps. But this is not the case - it does not adhere properly until you apply firm pressure, so it is easy to adjust just right, then when a section is complete just apply firm pressure with a rounded wooden object and everything will stick firmly. I used DAP Weldwood Contact Cement which worked great for this application. I did manage to put quite a major slice in my thumb with an Xacto knife due to a plank splitting when I was trimming the top edge flush with the deck - certainly learned my lesson to be more careful when making cuts like that. Fortunately didn't cut through any tendons so it's all good now other than a numb section due to cutting through a nerve. So skip forward a month and I'm now just before building the dinghies and long boats. I'm very pleased with how it has progressed. There were a few mistakes along the way which required some effort to rectify - but that's how you learn right? I did have an issue with my set in that it is short probably two lengths of the 1mm brass wire. I had to start substituting the 0.5mm and 1.5mm wire for some things, and some 1mm steel wire I had laying around for some parts that get painted. Talking of paint - I used Historic Ships brand Black and White paint for the hull. This gives a semi gloss finish which looks really nice. It does take about 3 or 4 coats to get a consistent finish, but it dries pretty fast. I also used Historic Ships Clear Satin varnish for everything that needs varnishing. This dries fast and is very quick to clean off brushes with water. For stain I used Minwax Dark Walnut and Red Mahogony, and more recently got some Red Chestnut which I prefer and used for later parts of the build (e.g. the deck house roofs). In hindsight I wish I had treated all the interior sapelli wood with the Red Chestnut as that would have given a nicer contrast. For all the black fittings I used matte acrylic paint, firstly because it only needs one coat to get a good finish, and second my understanding is that on small objects gloss does not look very realistic. For the cannons and figurehead I used a mix of matte black acrylic and Liquid Leaf Classic Gold. I actually mixed the paints together in various proportions to get the desired patina rather than using the black then gold method shown in OcCre's video. Then I used a very small amount of the semi gloss black dry brushed on top to get relief around the nooks. In the next pic you can see I had to substitute 1.5mm instead of 1mm brass wire for the axle on the central pin rail due to there not being enough 1mm in the set. Looks OK though I think. In the next pic you can see an issue with the foremast belaying pins. I spaced each set of three pins exactly as shown in the scale drawings in the instructions. But this makes them too close and each set of three pins will not insert all the way due to interference. I almost remade the whole piece but in the end just decided to put up with it. If you are building this ship I would suggest spacing these pins out slightly more than shown on the drawings. There a small gap between the keel and the hull that can be seen in the next pic. I should have spent more time test fitting and shaping the keel here. I was happy with how the wire bending went for the transom decorations, I think my Metal Earth experience helped here as you have to do a lot of careful forming and shaping of metal sheets. You can see here I did not sand down the internal support blocks at the stern on the starboard side enough. It wasn't clear in the instructions that they basically need to be sanded down to the width of the keel at the very back. Here you can see another mistake I made. The anchor wale on the port side shown here is correct. But compare it to the first pic, you'll see on the starboard side I accidently made it slope the other way, towards the back as you go down. It's one of those errors that no one viewing the model would ever spot as you never see both at the same time - but I know it's there, grrr! Another mistake I used the wrong thickness of wire for some of the wires that make up the bow (this is not why I am short on the 1mm wire though). Well that's it for now. I'll post further updates as progress is made. -
Hi everyone, I'm building the OCCRE HMS Terror model. This is my first ship model, and I described the reasons for wanting to build her in my "new member" introduction. I'm actually a fair ways along with this model, but have reached the point where I have questions about details and Royal Navy standard practice from that era, in an attempt to make my model as accurate as I can. Also I see other people are building this model, and I hope to trade notes with them as I go along. I guess I'll make a series of posts to start off, to show the various stages I went through to get the model to the point she's currently at. I am trying to make some improvements to the basic kit: to this end I have done a bit of research and also received a bit of help from a friend who is very knowledgeable about ships, the Franklin ships in particular, and is very generous with his advice. My model will incorporate some of the things I've learned from photographs of the real ship as she lies today, the kit itself, and also the advice of my friend. Also I have read and re-read the excellent blog by a member of this forum on the subject of HMS Terror, which I will study closely and try to make modifications to the kit to try and emulate. -
Hello, I found this little cutie and decided to build her as escape from big and complicated ships. She looks like isn't popular kit and I wonder why? I realized that I very like look of lateen rigged vessels and she was smaller from Chebec which will be definitely a few months build. Here I will add to the San Juan probably 2 swivel guns as this ship wasn't big and maybe I'll paint her. I have big urge to made single plank with mathematic calculations - this seems as very big challenge and as San Juan has lenght of biggest frame about 70mm it will not require many 5mm width planks to fit. So far I've made skeleton and planked deck. During previous months I made such frigate - Nuestra Senora de las Mercedes.
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Hi there, This is my build log for the mighty ship Endeavour. I've lurked a bit in the background (after I bought the kit) and have taken note of some great advice. Holy Moly, you guys are good. The first advice I noticed was the need for at straight keel to make sure that the ship is straight. Sound like a good idea and since I own a couple of 3D printers, I decided to design a straight stand. The printer is still working on it. And as I could not wait to start, I took out some parts from the box and assempled the spine straight away. Putting the frames on loosely, only served the purpose of showing my wife how great the ship would look when finished. After standing for two days like that I, met my first problem of many. One of the frames developed a distinct curvature. My guess is that it would be difficult to lay the decks and maintain a perfectly curved hull (I am still dreading the forming of the bow). At the moment the frame is in press between two shelves from the cupboard after spending some time in the oven at 50 degrees celcius. EDIT: no good. And 100 degrees didn't help either. Guess I'll have to print some braces. While I'm waiting I am designing some helpful tools for 3D printing. A couple of "cross-blocks" to help with keeping the frames at right angles when I eventually decide to glue them in place. A couple of right angle bits to help later on. If anyone think they can use them, I'll be happy to share. I wasn't even supposed to build a ship. I was actually searching for a 3D model of a small boat that I could print as a gift wrapper for a present for my grandson - and no - Benchy was not going to cut it (3D printer insider joke). I just happened to spot the OCCRE kit and clicked on the link. As I was drooling and thinking back to my dad's attempt at the Wasa back when I was 7 years old, my wife happened to glance at the screen. She was impressed and within minutes she urged me to buy it. We usually contemplate for weeks before we buy anything, so I am convinced that she also liked the model. So I clicked on pay, and here I am. No experience in building a model ship. Whatsoever. No toolshed with loads of specialized tools. Just a desire that I have had for more than 50 years. Now is the time. Wonder how many years this will take me.... p.s. My dad got the hull finished and sanded. That was it. He gave up. -
Hi, I'm beginning to build the HMS Endeavour from OcCre. After preparing the bulkheads, the decks were planked. I tried the toothpick method for the trenails. Here ist my Progress so far: Fitting the decks to the framework: Meanwhile preparing the Lifeboat, which was actually quite challenging for me because I was trying to let all the planks run from stern to bow. Didn't work out perfect, but the finished thing still looks ok... Beginning of the first planking using paper strips for each bulkhead and planking fans to try and plan the tapering. Also using Chucks planking method. After a little learning curve, it worked quite well for me. -
Starting what looks like a nice easy summer build. With all the pre-shaped parts, it certainly looks like a beginner kit which is fine by me. They even give you a cute little pre-made basket. The only issue was with the pre-formed clear plastic "bulbs". 2 were essentially flat but OcCre already replaced them. Can't find many (any) pictures of a real boat with lights but it seems simple enough. I may even put some LEDs in for fun.
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