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Found 17 results

  1. January 2014 – After 21 years of sitting in a large box of packing peanuts I decided to resurrect the Mamoli Constitution. Luckily I had packed everything carefully. The ship’s hull and some of the tools were in the box, the remaining wood and parts were taped up in the original kit box. The scale of the model is 1:93. I pulled the plans and started to review where I left the build off. I had completed the outer hull (which is double planked on bulkheads), including the green tiles representing each of the copper plates. The main deck was not planked and the forward bulkhead while started only had one plank on one side. I completed the forward bulkhead and proceeded to plank the deck. According to the instructions, each piece of Tanganyika needed to be cut to 80mm, then using a No.2 pencil you color the edges on both sides and the butt ends. I used white wood glue to glue the pieces down. I marked with pencil each of the deck penetrations, which were already done in the plywood. Then I carefully cut the wood and sanded/filed the edges back to the original hole size. This is an area where I see a fairly significant difference in the Mamoli plans and the Model Shipyards. The MS builds the hull in the bow into what becomes the forward bulkhead. The Mamoli construction includes the bow in the planking and adds the forward bulkhead once the hull is complete. This also means the bow is approached differently. I will get to that later. Once the deck was completed I put on the handrails. At this point, I decided a couple of points. First, my plan was to paint the model using the Constitution plaint set from MS and secondly, I wanted to modify the bow and the stern ornamentation to be more closely aligned with the looks of the MS model. This meant creating a method to add the scrollwork since the Mamoli did not include it other than two white metal plates to be affixed to the bow for the fiddlehead design. Secondly the stern did not have the two boards that ran from the lower stern over the windows and back down producing a nice double curve. These I created using 2x2mm walnut strips I bent with the heat bender. As a note, I found out that adding CA to the sides of the strip before I bent it allowed me to control the splintering which the walnut was prone to do. This might have had something to do with the wood strips being over 21 years old. Stern Galleries The kit came with two white metal pieces for the windows in the stern galleries. One was curved almost correctly, the other was straight. Unfortunately, when trying to bend the metal for the gallery, it broke along the central vertical piece between the windows. I was afraid to heat it before I bent it. I found both of the gallery pieces required much work in sanding and shaping before they could be glued into the model. Since I was painting the ship I could use sandable epoxy putty to add to smooth the pieces to the hull. I did end up having to remove more of this than planned since I thought the top of the gallery was more curved than flat. I used my Foredom Rotary tool, rilflers, sand paper, and dental tools to carve the gallery sides and put the modeling details back into it where I either ended up sanding them out, or they needed to be made to extend through the putty. I then added the 2x2 walnut strips around the stern and completed the stern with the side strips running down the gallery aft sides. These I extended 2 mm to match the 2x2s I added around the windows. The attached photo shows the Starboard Gallery. You can see the frame break on the bottom of the leftmost window. This was patched before painting.
  2. While cleaning the Vasa, I discovered that the cabin windows were very brittle, and cracked off with very little force. Any idea what they might be made from? Seemed like some kind of varnish, polymer, or glassy paint. It was applied directly to the wood underneath. I don't know how old the model is, unfortunately our museum didn't receive that information with the donation. Thanks!
  3. I found this very useful app for color matching photos to model paints. It has all of the major paint brands and will calculate blends based off of their published swatches. While not a foolproof technique, it seems like a decent baseline for approximate matching. http://www.id6.ch/id6_WebSite_en/iModelKit_v2.html
  4. I'm getting very close to painting the hull of my wood ship. Some people say to use a sanding sealer first, and I have seen others just use primer to prep the hull. Does anyone have any tips or tricks they can share to prepare the hull for paint. Thanks, CK
  5. Anyone tried this? In my continued experimentation with about every step of my first ship I've been working through various options for paint; it's easy enough for me to do a perfectly level painted surface in most cases, but that would be extremely inaccurate, I'm looking for something more organic, allowing the character of the wood to show but at correct scale- grain bumps/grooves that scale out to two and three inches high/deep are just as bad as a perfectly smooth finish. I remembered I have a nice set of india inks that promise to be lightfast and waterproof, and I also know from previous experience that it can be applied as glaze coats and have a bit more translucency than paint, so I decided to try the red (which is pretty close to most versions of RN bulkhead red) on a piece of boxwood, which is what the inner gunwales of my little cutter are planked with. This is the plank sanded cleanly with 400 grit and then given one "coat" of ink, which is really about three passes with thin glaze coats, waiting about 30 seconds between. The color is good but the grain has been raised considerably. This is after three "coats" (~ 9 glaze coat passes) with sanding between, first with 1200 that took it almost to bare wood again and second time with 2000 that was as much leveling as possible without removing significant color. Diffuse color. Harder to see here than in real life, but it has visibly more translucency than paints (that have effectively 0) while still having nice color saturation. I like the effect overall. And here's what the surface looks like. I also like this scale-wise, mine being 1:64- this seems pretty close to me for that scale. So, pros: Perfect consistency for brush painting Goes on with zero brush marks as glaze coats, looks like 2-3 would be = to typical brush painted coat Can be semi-transluscent allowing some of the wood to show. Translucency can be controlled between somewhat translucent to 0 translucent with complete color saturation Coats can be sanded < 5 minutes after final glaze coat. No kidding, dries fast. Use a hairdryer on low and you could run through the whole three coats and two sandings continuously with no significant waiting Seems reasonably tough, more so than I thought it would be and certainly more than Tamiya paints. A little piece of dust got in a coat and dried before I saw it, and it took a surprising amount of effort and resorting to putting on magnifiers to dig that little bastard out of the finish. But the scene of the crime disappeared completely with the next sanding and coats. Cons: ? Any experience/thoughts appreciated.
  6. Although I am still in the early stages of my Triton cross-section, I am going to have to make some decisions soon. My overall plan is to paint one half of the model and show off the wood plus cutaways on the other half. My big question is about painting the hold... Photos of the HMS Trincomalee's hold show that everything: planks, pillars, beams, etc, were painted white. However, photos of the Victory's hold show unpainted sides and pillars. Any advice? Regards, Gabe
  7. Greetings, I'm currently building BlueJackets 80' ELCO PT Boat and I'm getting close to the point where I'll have to decide how to paint the hull. I was wonderng if anyone had strong feelings for Model Master Enamle over Acrylic or vice versa. I ordered the standard gray paint kit rather than the Pacific Green, I assumed I would get Acrylic paint, instead they provided Enamle. :mellow: Thank, Tim
  8. Hi everyone I did a first top coat in a mixture of Humbrol gloss enamel colours (3 tins, 2 of one colour, one of another), didn't add any thinners or anything else; it was done over a thin coat of Zinser oil based undercoat that had been well sanded & was well dry. The Humbrol took ages to dry - almost a week so far, it's still not dry enough to sand but it is close. It was very nice paint to use & the finish is good, despite the gradual accretion of dust over the week.... My 'workshop' is a cool garage, not really damp & not really cold, maybe 17 degrees C & things don't go mouldy there. Anyone comments? My thoughts are that I just need to do the next coats in a warmer location, but I am surprised that it took so long. thanks in advance, MP
  9. Dear friends following a disastrous attempt at painting the waterline I decided to take a step back and do a bit of testing. My main problem was bleeding of the paint under the masking tape. It seems that the consensus is that Tamiya masking tape works and it was also suggested to me to use masking film which seems a great but expensive option. However I first thought of testing tapes that are cheap and widely available, a general purpose masking tape by 3M, insulating (electician's) tape and frog tape (low tack). I intend to test these tapes on common modelling substrates, that is sealed and sanded wood, primed wood and cured paint. I will also use red auto paint (Halfords) and modelling acrylic white paint (Humbrol), both spray cans. It might be useful to post a few photos with the results. I prepared three pieces of plywood, (sanded to 400 grit, then acrylic sanding sealer, followed by sanding to 400 grit) First test is the sealed wood surface. I applied the three tapes, white is insulating, blue is masking and yellow frog. I painted one half with the red auto paint and the other with the white acrylic (2 coats each). The red paint was applied first and the two halves were separated with the 3M blue masking tape well tucked down. Although unintentional it is evident that a lot of white paint has bled and the line is not sharp. In the next photo the blue masking tape was top and the frog tape bottom. The masking tape bled a lot with both paints but the frog tape was almost flawless. In the next photo the insulating tape is top and the masking tape bottom. The insulating tape was better but still there was some bleed with both paints. Also, the tape left glue residue on the wood. On sealed wood the yellow low tuck frog tape is the clear winner and the only real option, allowing crisp lines for a cost of £6 for 41 m (24mm). The dead cheap insulating tape if extra care is used may have reasonable results but is far from perfect. The ordinary masking tape simply should not be used for masking purposes. Of note, the Humbrol paint left a raised edge when the tapes were removed but not the Halfords one. Next comes the same on primed and painted surfaces.
  10. Hi, Can anyone recommend a reasonably price source or make of paints for plastic models. I'd rather use water based, low odour if possible. But at the moment all I try seems to be like water and hardly even colours the surface. It's great for weathering. But I need something for the main colours that's opaque and comes in a decent size and range of colours. Any suggestion please oh I'm in the UK so local is best or free P&P as it ends up I'm paying more for post than the paint. Thanks Izzy
  11. Question: Does anybody have a picture of of their model with the hull painted with Model Shipways "Hull Bottom Copper Red"? Reason I ask is that I just purchased the paint set to go with my Bluenose kit. However, after looking at the sample on the page for that specific paint, and the color of the paint on the actual Bluenose hull, the color seems way off. However, Model Shipways also has it listed as Venetian Red, which going by generic samples on the internet look like it might work? Also, why does Model Shipways claim that their acrylic paints are ideal for airbrush use, but then put a disclaimer immediately below the description claiming that their paints are not compatible with airbrush use? Here is a copy + paste of the paint description: "High quality acrylic based paints can be thinned with water, thinner or alcohol. They clean up easily with water, making them ideal for airbrush use. Brushed or sprayed, paints dry flat with good grain structure and a smooth finish. 1 oz. bottles. Note: color swatch you see will vary due to computer monitor/calibration differences and the fact that the computer screen is RGB. Color description at top will give you the best idea of the exact color. Model Shipways paints are not compatible with airbrushes." Just slightly confused here! LOL!
  12. Anyone able to give advice for the best paint for painting the copper sheathing on my Airfix HMS Victory? It's already got a coat of Tamiya paint but I'm not too happy with the colour. Thanks
  13. Since last year I have been using and purchasing Valejo paint from my local hobby store. I like the paint as it has a high pigment. Now the store has decided to go with a new brand by the name of Mr. Color This after many request from other shoppers. When searching the web I haven't been able to find any link to the manufacturer themselves. The store is to drop the Valejo line in favor of Mr Color, so my question is: Does anyone have any experience of this paint? Does it hold the quality of Valejo?
  14. I have been trying to find some sort of a chart with several manufacturer of paint for matching. Then I stumbled over this website, where you can enter one manufacturer and get a comparison of another brand. Hopefully this would make it easier when finding paint for our kits. Vallejo color chart Any comparison is possible. Upload a picture and use it for reference is also possible. Enjoy!
  15. I've just ordered the Syren MS paint kit. I was wondering if these were the paints others have used in their Syren, or did they go with other brands? I took the easy option and got all the colours in one pack, but am wondering if I've compromised on quality. Cheers Rowan
  16. Hi all. I have several barrels to decorate in my Spirit of Mississippi build and the only decoration other than varnish are black hoops. Having no other painting on the barrels they need to be right first time. Not having done this before and painting not being my forte, has anyone any good hints for painting the hoops right first time This is one of the barrels and the idea is to paint the rebated hoops. Help please
  17. Hi there. I have not worked with white metal before and I would like a bit of advice The build I am working on, the OcCre Spirit of Mississippi has loads of small small white metal parts such as chairs and tables etc. As you can see the acrylic style paint that I had in stock is not clinging well. That is after two thin coats. The back of the chairs haven't been painted So obviously that isn't working So what is the best paint?? I am off to the model shop tomorrow so I can get what is advised. Should it be the quality models acrylic or the Humbrol style metal paints Thanks for any help Mick

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