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Found 12 results

  1. The description of my reconstruction you will find here. On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid. First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out. I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship. The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels. After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet. I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.
  2. I started this 1/96 scale kit in November 2019. I purchased this kit on eBay, it had already been started and is my first Wood Model Kit.
  3. I plan to build a 1:12 model of a 28 foot yacht. This design has never been built, but is a variant of a 24 foot yacht design usually called ‘a Ranger’ (see Wooden Boat magazine issue 227). The first of the type was called Ranger, launched in 1933. They are popular & loved because the design fits the purpose so well: day use on Sydney Harbour, with short coastal trips & overnighting capacity. The design was adapted by the designer to a 32’ ocean-going variant, & also a 28’ ocean-going variant. The 28 footer came 8th on IRC handicap in the 2006 Sydney Hobart Race (see youtube video of her in 2012 in 30-35 knots http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd9LqrDP510). The design I will build is slimmer & with less buoyancy in the bow than the ocean-going 28 footer. The ‘Ranger’ yachts are generally 24 foot (7.3m) waterline & on deck, with bowsprit, gaff rig & a raised deck. They are very beamy at around 9’6” (2.9m), or a beam/length proportion of about 40%. This version is 28’ & 9’6” beam, so it’s basically stretched, not scaled up. This design is of interest generally because: the smaller ones are admired & loved, at least locally; this 28’ design has never been built; the designer (Cliff Gale) was a self-taught boat designer & in his day was considered one of Sydney’s best yachtsman. But it’s also personal: I’m lucky enough to have one of the 24 footers. I love the design, that they can be so beamy yet look good & sail so well, & they are a terrific motor boat as well. They sail well in 5 knots & can also sail unreefed in 40 knots. These photos show well the nuggety shape: This is the existing ocean going 28 footer, she's the most similar boat to the design I'm building, but much fuller. It's a big little boat: Cliff Gale was a self-taught designer, who learned by towing carved models behind a dinghy. Ranger was designed by carving a bread & butter half model, which was taken apart & measured. Cliff’s son Bill recently wrote this about his father: "Cliff Gale left school in 1898 aged twelve, & knew arithmetic but had insufficient mathematics to be useful in boat design. As a boy he lived at Woolwich & the family owned a rowing skiff for transport & pleasure. From thirteen to nineteen he made in excess of one hundred rough sailing models, each one progressively different, which he tested from the skiff. At nineteen he felt he had completed his design self-education.” I would like to build the model plank on ribs, & possibly make it RC sailing - although plain sailing is an alternative as well. But I’ll leave that alternative open until I get to that point, I will also be happy if a nice display model is the result. The issue that needs to be resolved is actually what to build... I do have the original drawings as done by a naval architect to Cliff’s design, but having looked carefully at them, they do not relate accurately between the different drawings. The history of the Ranger design makes this even worse: for Ranger herself we have Cliff’s original half model, we have the original drawings done from the half model, & we have lines drawing of Ranger meticulously done by 2 local shipwrights … & they don’t match up. If you compare station 4 on the drawings below, the design drawing shows more tumblehome, & much less buoyancy - the volume below the waterline was increased while being built, to increase her load-carrying capacity: Bill Gale tells me that his father went to the boatbuilder often to supervise the construction, & that he made a number of modifications to the lines while she was being built. For the model, I will have to adapt the lines drawing, trying to do it in a similar way that the lines drawing of Ranger was adapted to the built design. Because of the uncertainty, the model building method needs to help resolve thoughtfully these differences between the various possible shapes, & not be a way of getting caught up in plotting lines on a screen that fit but might be going away from the design. Initially I spent some hours trying to resolve a set of lines that is consistent, as they do not quite match up on the original drawing. My CAD skills are fair but you can’t really see a subtle 3D curved object in a drawing, so making changes to a curve on screen seems risky in this case. So I’ve concluded that I must see the shape in the flesh, & so carve the solid hull shape, based on a set of lines I adapted from the original lines drawing. The shape will be fair, so then I know the molds will work. If the method is too difficult I will be reluctant to make corrections, so it needs to be fairly simple & easy to make & to change. In putting this up early, I hope to benefit from the knowledge & experience of this forum. So I’ve done some sketches below that show the idea for my construction method, & hope that I can get some constructive criticism & help to iron out any issues now. In a few weeks I’ll get back to the computer & finalise the lines drawings; but for now I’ll describe the idea for the building method - as I see it now. 1 Work up a set of lines in CAD, from the original drawings. 2 Cut plywood molds from the station lines. 20141103145702436.pdf 3 Assemble the molds with solid balsa blocking between them, the balsa blocking is to be removable. Possibly brass rods inserted at angles through the balsa & molds. 20141103145708075.pdf 20141103145720688.pdf 4 Carve the hull shape out of the solid, using the molds as indicators. If I need to add to the molds, glue strips of timber on the mold edges. 5 Make the stem, forefoot, keelson, keel, transom etc, to sit neatly over the hull shape. 20141103145726052.pdf 6 Remove some of the solid blocking, where the ribs can sit directly on the molds; leave the blocking where the ribs want to lie at angles, I’ll probably need to put in temporary spacers to help hold the model together. By keeping blocking in the bow area, the ribs can follow their natural line rather be pushed into being straight across the hull. It's not so bad for the aft 2/3s of the hull shape, I think they'll be able to sit on the plywood ribs. 7 Cut the rabbet, rib the hull. 8 Plank the hull. 9 Remove molds & remaining blocking, progressively putting in some deck beams as it goes. 10 Have a cup of tea thanks for reading this, I hope to learn a bit more before starting, & maybe revise the method if needed MP
  4. Hi, There where many times since I started building my Kingfisher that I thought I should start a build log. And today is the day. I've started the kit last november and spend a lot of time since. Not that I have made much progress, but it is not a race and its tremendous fun building. I ran in to trouble when I was making the hawse timbers, I did not like how the shape came out. It was time to have a little diversion from frame building and find the courage to make new parts from scratch for the hawse timbers. So I left the path of the instruction and started building the stove, some gratings and the gun trucks. That was a lot of fun. The gun trucks are almost finished and wait for the arrival of replacement cannons from The Lumberyard. ==================================== So that's what was left from my old build log in Google cache. Unfortunately the rest was shot into cyberspace and is now a pleasant memory of 2 years and 7 months of logging the progress of my Kingfisher. And probably the longest story I ever wrote in my whole life as I don't like writing at all. So instead of trying to get everything back I'll put a selection of the pictures I did keep on my laptop up in this post and will go on from there. Maybe I'll add text along the way but don't want to be kept from modeling to much. Most of the pictures say more than words anyhow. Update: So Dave (Midnight) saved my log previous to MSW’s move from 1.0 to 2.0. He was ever so kind to share these files with me to rebuild my buildlog. Unfortunately I’m not able to convert the PDF’s back to text to get them back into my buidlog. So instead of typing the lot over again I decided to put the PDF’s on a public share where every body who’s interested can download them from. To make live a little easier I compiled a small index so you now what to expect in each PDF. All the PDF's can be found here. I know it's a bit of a disappointment not to be able to put the information back into this log but the good news is nothing is lost. Any comments of how its working are welcome. Remco
  5. Introduction In this blog I want to tell about construction the to the first model with frames. I use remarkable drawings which are published in the book HMS Euryalus (1803) by Allan Yedlinsky and Wayne Kepmson http://www.seawatchbooks.com/111003. As I hope for the help of members of this forum. Any help, questions and remarks - are welcomed
  6. The build log begins! Dedicated to my sailor girl! Funny but I thought I would be intimidated by the abundance of parts but fortunately I am not. Wish me luck boys, I need this done by January / Feb 2015 and awaaaay we go ... Scale 1:63
  7. I need some really good advice but first the facts. This build is going to be a one off project. I have Leukemia and another blood cancer that makes my time short. I have never built any models from the time I was a teenager but I am an engineer. I was in the Air Force and Navy and was an in-flight maintenance man. Have experience in using wood working tools. The only tall ship I have visited is the USS Constitution. My bucket list included a trip to Fenway Park and to see the Constitution. My old boss went with me to see a game and the boat. I want to build a plank on frame kit of the USS Constitution. I know good advise would be to start with a simpler hull or boat all together but I am hard headed and tired of being told what I cannot do any more. Now that we have that out of the way I am looking for suggestions of what kit is going to be best. Best can mean many things such as best quality wood, instructions, detail but somewhere in that is the kit you would buy if it was going to be your last. The next thing is where to buy the kit. I live in the St. Louis area but I have no problem if I need to buy international. If I should not get it finished I will be sure to give my wife instructions on who to ship it to so it can be completed.
  8. This is Syren Ship Model's soon to be released kit. It is plank on frame and will be built admiralty style with frames showing. Chuck has come up with an ingenious way of constructing frames with floors and futtocks that uses laser cut parts. The kit uses cherry for most of the parts but some embellishments will be in boxwood. This is a photo of a similar model from the National Maritime Museum
  9. I was really suprised that I did not find a build log about the Naval Cutter Alert on MSW 2.0. I know that there exist some pictures of a model on the old MSW The first source for building a model of this small vessel are Peter Goodwins book "The Naval Cutter Alert, 1777", published by PhoenixPublications Inc. 1991 and the two original drawing of her sister Rattlesnake (1776) which you will find on the homepage of the NMM. There also exist two paintings of Joseph Marshall of the ship, which are exhibited in the Science Museum, London. I found also an Sheer and Profile drawing of Alert which was published by the NRG. The sheer and profile of the NRG and Goodwin differ from the original drawing. They show the maximum width of the ship not at frame 0. Perhaps my Engish is to bad, but I could not find any reason for this. So I decide to draw my own lines. which were based on Goodwin and the original drawing. The drawing is not finished, because I decided only to draw what I need for my build. Next step was the keel. Goodwin shows for the pass between keel and lower apron a solution which I could not find on any original cutter drawings. For the after deadwood he does not offer any possible solution I decide to follow the original drawing of Cheerful 1806 for the pass between keel and lower apron. The flat joint at the foremost keel part is shown on original drawings of this period (for example on HMS Triton). For the after deadwood I decided to use a bearing line. I am not sure if this is common for ships of this period. The next picture shows my completed keel drawing: Goodwin uses for his design the common frameing pattern of double and single frames. I am not sure that this design was used for the original ship. For the Swan class sloops only single frames were used. This you will also find on the drawing of Cheerful and other cutters. Also the wide of the frame parts are not clear. In his drawing he uses much smaller futtocks than he descibed in the text part of the book. In his "Construction and Fitting of Sailing Man of War" he gives a third solution. What now? Alert is a practice model for me to get the experience to continue my HMS Fly build. Marshall shows on his paintings an simplified frameing design, so I decided to use this. Every frame is 8'' width followed by 8'' space. For the port side I like to show the clinker planking. On my drawing the final design for the last frame and the hawse pieces is missing in the moment. The drawings for every 31frames and 21cant frames are finished. I am not sure in the moment if I will use the original practice with chocks or the simplified method of Harold Hahn for my build. It will be very nice if you have further information about the cutters of this time. I found the Marmaduke Stalkartt on Google-books, but they didn't scan the plates. Perhaps one of the MSW user can help me to confirm my decisions.
  10. Hi Everyone, I've been lurking around the Plank on Frame builds on here for ages now, dreaming of the day when I have the space, time and money to build a true Plank on Frame model, when I had a bit of a brain wave: Firstly, my woodworking skills wouldn't be up to scratch to build a true Contemporary Style PoF ship, and the lack of space in my one bedroom flat (shared with the Lady Admiral and our Cocker Spaniel Puppy) would not permit the build of such an advanced model. Now you're probably reading this and saying "well, just buy a Lumberyard kit with all the parts laser cut, and find a bigger house, or make more room". This was my first thought process, but then brainwave number two happened (whilst in the shower), and I thought about making a wooden plug, like has been used for a number of builds here on MSW. Having trawled through numerous build logs, I realised these are mostly for models with very thin frames, such as Longboats, and Gunboats. So why can't it be done for a ship that is smaller in size, but bigger than a Gunboat? I then started digging around online, and found very few companies offer models built in this fashion. In theory, this would be a similar way of building a modern wooden boat, build a plug based on bulkheads turned upside-down, with battens screwed to the bulkhead to make the moulded shape (a lot of the early Quarter Tonner racing boats were built this way). So for example, I decided to build a 14 Gun Cutter, like below, I could measure from the plans how thick the frames were (say 5mm @ 1:48 Scale), and using AutoCAD produce a copy of the sheer lines from the plan and offset those by the thickness of the proposed frame. Does anyone think this would work? So below, I have attached a screen dump from a quick 3D model of the proposed plug (although I have not rounded the plug off yet). If I were to use this method, I would have to temporarily fix the Keelson in the slot cut in to the mould and build from there. I assume with the correct level of steaming and soaking, I could bend the wood (assume 5mm x 6mm Basswood strip) around the plug and pin/screw/nail/clamp the half frame in place. Then bend the Futtock on the mould, and glue/pin in place next to the half frames. Again, does anyone think this would work? After all the full frames and cant frames (at the bow) are in place, the keel in glued in to position to fix the frames together. The stern cant frames are glued in place to the deadwood, and temporary stringers are added to the outside of the frames (where planks will be laid). The model will then be lifted off the mould with all frames, keelson, and keel ready for continuation of the build (building the decks and fittings). Once again, does anyone think this will work? Lastly, I am only at the concept phase of this potential build idea. I'm only thinking about this as an easy way to build (relatively cheaply) a PoF model without thousands of hours, and pounds on materials and tools, and without using up too much of the living room or dining room space. Thanks for taking the time to read through my ramblings, and all comments, positive and negative towards the idea are welcome. Cheers, Jonny
  11. Steamship Heinrich Kayser Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years. After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly. I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers. It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922 The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows. The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc. The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup Nils Here it Begins..... Build log part1 this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing" this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser overview plan frontsection overview plan aftsection stringers and single-layer planking in pine planking under way, propshaft built in Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan planking nearly completed Part 2 to follow....
  12. Hello everyone. Here, I plan to talk about my project Naiad. Its you well know, but here are some useful links on this topic EdT block here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797/ Book Volume 1 http://www.seawatchbooks.com/112002 Later I'll add my photos

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