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Found 18 results

  1. HMS Syrius was a 36 gun fifth rate frigate of the Royal Navy. she was lost in 1810 when her crew scuttled her after she ran aground during the Battle of Grand Port.
  2. Hi everyone, To get started again, I will post again the photos I took of the original Bellona model at Chatham last year, with permission from the National Maritime Museum. This model is contemporary with the original design of 1760. The Bellona was rebuilt in the 1780s with some significant changes in port locations, refitted rail on the poop, etc. I prefer the look of the original, and so these photos of the original model are my roadmap through the project. It will take me a while to summarize my own build starting with my re-drafted drawings at 3/16" scale, but I am committed to the task! Best wishes, Mark
  3. Why scratch? I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never close to what I want. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood (read - kit wood). And I am not ready to tolerate a bad quality in the kit. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway. It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important? Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. So I take Remco's motto - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime". Why Hahn? For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig! Why Oliver Cromwell? This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard. But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
  4. Part 1: Introduction of a new project: With my Triton cross section running to its completion, it is time to look out to a new cross section project. My eye fell on a former group project of our modeling club ( https://dedissel.weebly.com/ a cross section of a Lowestoft smack, based on drawings of the smack 'Master Hand'. One of the club members, Georges Verleene, an experienced ship carpenter (now retired), wrote for this project a very detailed monograph with lots of detailed drawings. The group project went on many years ago, but lucky for me Georges had still a copy of the handout left. 001.pdf
  5. Hi Everyone, Yes another new chap here to the forum. I have been lurking in the shadows for sometime reading. reading and researching as I am new to scratch building wooden ship models. I am however an avid RC aircraft modeler and build and fly only scale gliders from 1/4 scale up. The largest scratch built glider I have has a wingspan of 7.5m so no small foamies here. Whilst this build goes on I also purchased the Hayling Hoy book from sea-watch and will be building this during the Triton build. A little test bed really. I hope to document this Triton build to a high level to ensure I have a beautiful replica once completed and I am certain I will have plenty of questions along the way so the more detail provided the easier it will be to gain assistance. There isn't a whole lot to show just yet as I have only printed out a very small number of the large format drawings and have a ton to go until I finish printing them all. I was thinking about not printing everything at once to save up a little space but I think it will be a lot easier to print them all out then check off each sheet with the master list to ensure I don't miss anything. That's really all there is for now, I needed to get the build log started as it will give me the little nudge along to get things moving along nicely. I would like to thank all the guys and gals out there that contributed to these drawings, they are very thorough and would have taken hundreds of man hours to put together so thank you all, especially at only 5 bucks, brilliant. Anyway I better try to get some sleep its 3am here. Chow for now. Steve
  6. Hello everyone Today is a good day to start my scratch build log. Maybe this Tableboat would be something for a scratch build log ... Seriously, i wish you all a happy new year! Cheers : ) Mike
  7. all, My Halve Maen build was already on hold, but during our move to a new house in November 2015, she got lost because one of our friends put her box on the pavement instead of in our car. After that the enthusiasm to build was completely gone. I spent last year enjoying my other hobbies. But, as a Dutch saying goes: 'Blood is thicker than water' and the urge to build another ship came back. So, May I present to you the Spanish Galleon Nuestra Señora del Pilar De Zaragoza (Our lady of the pillar of Zaragoza), a Spanish Treasure Galleon. Measurements Length: 1110 mm Height: 970 mm Width: 520 mm History During the 17th and 18th centuries Spanish galleons served the Spanish crown as merchantmen and warships. Many of them sailed between Acapulco and Manila, transporting South American silver to the Philippines and exotic goods from Asia to Mexico, from where the treasures were sent back to Spain. Commisioned in 1731 and launched in 1733, Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza (Our Lady of the Pillar of Zaragoza) was one of these Manila Galleons built of the finest Philippine wood, she was 112 feet on deck and displaced 1,000 tons. A 4th rate of the Cavogonda class, she was fitted with 50 cannon, two stern chasers and six swivel guns. She carried a crew of 385 men. For twenty years she sailed the route from Mexico to Manila and in 1750 underwent a complete refit in the Port of Cavite. In 1750, on her last voyage, she set sail from Manila bound for Acapulco. Despite being overloaded, and contrary to the opinion of both pilots and Master, her Captain insisted on weighing anchor at the beginning of September. En route for the Mariana Islands, in the Pacific, they began to have difficulties after sailing into a heavy storm, and she sank taking all of her crew down with her. Frames dry fit. Frames glued in place. Reinforcing pieces not glued yet. Frames glued in place. Last three frames fitted and glued. Reinforcing pieces glued. Close-up bow section Close-up stern section Enjoy and thank you for watching. Anja
  8. I recently bought a plan for this America Schooner. The America II was in the US Naval Station on the Severn River when I was there. It was right next to the Meridea then. I did not have the point of perspective that I could do a sketch of it because Meridea was right between. Although the 1/4" plan is pretty good, It only has about 8 stations drawn, and none of them are spaced upon the evenly spaced frame positions, so the only way I can accomplish drawing the frames for her will be to take those station drawings and enter them into CAD and extrapolate each frame from the resulting waterlines. I am interested in working on getting this CAD drawing, but, I have never transitioned into any successful 3D skills with my DesignCAD 2/3D program. I have had an idea of the how to do the plan, but it will take a lot of trial and error before I can get it accomplished, I am sure. I have wanted to do this POF for almost as long as I have been working on Meridea, however, it was all in 2D. The lack of being in 3D caused me to have problems with the drawings in each view being coordinated (may not be the right word). I believe I am going to need some guidance on this one. Does anyone out there have and understand DesignCAD 3D MAX? I will probably need some tips on how to get the move point in a uniform position so when I paste the station into the 3D drawing they will all line up successfully. When I select the intersect of the vertical/horizontal lines the move point is always off to the side. That makes it next to impossible to get the former in exactly the right place. That has been my main problem from the start. I have also had some problems with them showing up in the right plane going from 2D to 3D. The 2D is XY, and when pasting them into the Z position, the front, top, and side views don't seem to come out right. The few times they did, I don't know how I got them there. I do understand layering, so you can hide or show each station.
  9. I'm midway through a build of the Emma C. Berry. I took a year+ off due to buying and renovating a new house. In the meantime, people have been anxiously awaiting promised updates of progress. I thought a fun project, or couple, would be to recreate some of the parts of some amazing builds on MSW. A recreated frame w/ blackened nails or a full keel. Accompanied by some plans and shadowboxed. I'm struggling on two parts: I can't seem to get wood to save my life. I have placed an order at Wood Project Source, but two weeks later realized I neglected to supply a unit number in my shipping address (please note, this is an error on my end - not theirs). Reading before placing a second order, due to demand, it may be 2-3+ weeks before I can get some wood to work with. Any US vendors than can delivery relatively quicker? Looking for pear and boxwood preferably. I don't have accurate plans for a frame (and it's parts) or keel. Are there accessible plans with a minimal cost that are limited to the parts I want? I know this question extends beyond the scope of this forum, but advise would be great. Thank you all, and a silent tip of the hat to all the builds I've been watching that have inspired me. Ryan
  10. The project was started just after Christmas with becoming familiar with all of the included wood and support pieces. The laser cut planking is excellent and actually feels a little more hard than the strip cut wood. Also, it seems to hold a better egde. The BOM states "Basswood or Limewood(European Basswood)" so I'm wondering if that explains the difference. One of the laser cut parts, the profile mold, did not match the plan around all of the the perimeter ( sheet 1A) but was satisfactory in the critical areas. (Edit:) Also, the horse support notches as well as the hull mold notches are not to be trusted. For me, all alignment was referenced from the waterlines, especially WL#4. i.e. Mold alignment from WL4 and plank alignment from WL1 to WL4. The supplied manual/guide is a treasure of information and the plans (save for above) are very well done i.e. thin lines and they all tie back to each other(so far). I'll try to keep up with the web resources I have gratefully used: Senior Old Salt John Flemming Lester Palifka Raymond Diaz 3 ply lamination making up the stern rabbet and keel skarf. It held the curve nicely. All the hull molds and profile mold were square and straight at this point except #1hull mold. It was rocked a little down to the left at this point. Here it's de-glued and straightened up with a little post. All the battens so far are attached use a medium CA glue by wicking it into the joints. I'm trying to avoid cleaning up the excess glue later on. Retro note here from 2/12/17: To make things a little easier later while positioning the thwart #4, note that the aft of the centerboard slot will determine the position of the aft of the centerboard case. The aft of the #4 thwart should line up (see plans) with the aft of the centerboard case. That all being done should place the ends of the thwart between two frame timbers, avoiding extra carving of the thwart. I’ll copy this edit into the appropriate frame layout post. Four flat planks are attached. Planks #5 & #6 need to be curved around the molds. A nice piece of cove molding is supplied with the kit.
  11. The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32. I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log. So let's start again
  12. Hello all... Is there a true and legit Plank on Frame kit available in the market? Preferably a large ship like a 3 masted square rigged ship. Not plans, but the whole kit. Thanks in advance Ulises
  13. Hi All, I am now two years into the US Brig Eagle using the Gene Bodnar practicum. I consider Gene to be one of the greats in the hobby today and his practicum leaves no regrets. I like to build a couple of ships in tandem so I dont get bored. Having just finished a POB Kitbashed Rattlesnake, I decided to start the HMS Naiad using Ed Tosti's Monograph (the log is posted on this site) and will continue with the US Brig Eagle. I toy with just stopping in the admiralty sytle, but since I bought a Byrnes rope walk this year, I had better use it. Otherwise I will be keel hauled by order of my Admiral... The first half of my log is on Model Ship Builder. I will share some photos below of how she sits today and moving forward, will now post on both sites. If you are interested in this build, I fully recommend it and am happy to consult for anyone who wants that. The practicum, which is FREE, takes you through lofting and plan design, all the way to the finished product. On my build, everything is from scratch, with the exception of the long guns. Some day, I will get into casting, but for now I am focusing on the hull structure. The build is based on research done by Kevin Crisma from Texa A&M University and his Doctoral disseratation is available free frmo the website. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/anth/abstracts/crisma.htm I'm going back a couple of years here... This is an example of the lofted frame. Now, I do all my frame lofting with DeltaCAD. One of the things that makes this a great first scratch build is the simple curvature of the frames. There is little tumble home and the frames are fairly thick for this lake warship. Here she sits with ceiling planks installed. I am leaving the ship in a skeletal form with only a suggestion of planking and other structural supports. The entire hull is of boxwood from D'Lumberyard. Capsized with the hull almost fully faired. Hours and hours of sanding and polishing... Fast forward to today! Next up is the bowsprit and rigging. I will go into more detail. If you want to see the full painful log in excrutiating detail, it is on MSB. More to come. Thanks, Gary
  14. Dear MSW, Please may I introduce myself as a newcomer to this forum. I'm based in the south of England and haven't made it to retirement yet (fingers crossed), but hope to settle into an enjoyable build. I've had a passion for ship building and associated history for some time and am lucky to live next door to historic sites and ship yards here in the New Forest, all of which have inspired me from school to present day. I literally stumbled on this sight and after receiving some very helpful advice and guidance from its members, so thought I ought to start my own log to track my progress and assist with keeping all in order and legal to the forum rules. I've seen some really fantastic examples of this vessel and others and hope to achieve a reasonable model in my own style. It's been a while since my last model (before I was a family man), and don't care how long I take, or mistakes I make with this my first POF kit. My last model was a POB of HMS Ark Royal WWII ( sorry no but no pictures available, all lost in time), which I really enjoyed as it provided great fun for my to nephews at local ponds. My daughter said I could do this and not wanting to argue with a thrusty 13 yr old, thought I'd get started. I enjoy setting out, and planning and am open to any suggestions, so please feel free to comment. So far I've only uploaded AOS images into AutoCAD 2007 for frame lofting and am still researching some info on the position of water lines for this ship. Q1: Pandora AOS waterlines are not horizontal to the scale and body plan. So I've set out with my keel flat, hoping this is the usual convention. Or are they flat as you'd naturally expect and should be adjusted to suit ? I expect there's more than one correct answer as with most things. I hope to post regular updates, but have to travel about a bit so expect periods of inactivity. Hi to you all and wish me luck. Best regards Adam.
  15. Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat* (SMALL) *As labelled on the kit. On the website it’s called: Plank-on-Frame Lifeboat Kit I am building the Mamoli 1:64 scale 1781 American Privateer Rattlesnake with the help of Robert Hunt’s Practicum. In the process of building the Rattlesnake, I had to make the ship’s boat. The Mamoli kit provided the model builder with a pre-cut wooden shell for the hull from which the builder could then create a completed model (which the Practicum addresses). If I had built the Model Shipways’ version of the Rattlesnake, I would have had to make the ship’s boat “bread and butter” style. Somehow neither option satisfied me. So I decided to go all out and build a ship’s boat from the keel up or as the case turn out, from the keel down. Model Shipways makes 5 sizes of kits; I purchased the Typical Ship Boat No. MS0108, a Plank-on-Frame construction kit (POF). Model No.: Size MS0105 3-3/16'' (81mm) MS0106 3-3/4'' (95mm) MS0107 4-1/4'' (108mm) MS0108 4-3/4'' (122mm) MS0109 5-3/16'' (135mm) This is my first POF as well as my first small boat build, so this will be all new territory for me. Not only that, I won’t have the Practicum to hold my hand until the hull is built. The kit is fairly simple, one laser cut sheet provided the keel, the bow bulkhead, the transom, and the frames to create the bot’s ribs. A bunch of stock wood pieces which I believe to be Basswood as it is fairly soft was also included. The instructions are straight forward but not overly detailed so a lot of the skills and nuances of model building must be brought with the builder. Unfortunately the resolution of the photo images in the instructions is low and therefore hard to see detail.
  16. While resting of my first scratch build, I am planing to start another ship of the same type. During the building of the previous ship I learned something about it. This time I will not start with real works until I completely finish the drawings. I started with modeling the hull using DelftSHIP Free. This is, at this moment, the idea how the ship will look like. It will be changes until I choose final version.
  17. Hello friends, under the Chrismas tree I found her! Possible to built her with clinkerd panking! Later more about these traditional Pommeranian and Prussian shallow water fishing barges. Here the very first pictures from the freshly opened box:
  18. I started my build log end 2011 as HMS Pegasus, a prototype of a Swan Class Sloop. Last year I got the possibility to get the As Built Drawings for HMS Fly . So I decided to go with her and built a model of a sigle ship of the class. The picture shows the completed backbone of my HMS Pegasus. which I have to modify to go with HMS Fly. I will restart the complete log and use this later as build log index, because I think that I need some years to realize my dream. I don't find the original pictures on my backup system - I think I made a silly mistake at the end of last year. So I will make new pictures from the Fly build and show some old from a German forum where I changed something. Build Log Index Common informations about HMS Fly and sources Keel and Stem Rising Wood Knee of the Head Apron and Fore Deadwood

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