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Found 6 results

  1. Hey folks! Me again. Today i am starting my first true build log on this forum. This log will concern a project i am doing for a friend, a modified version of Pyro's American Cup Racer (G. L. Thebaud) from 1958. This project will not be a total bash, not even close. However, i am heavily modifying the rigging and including parts from other kits to facilitate that. I will end up ordering high-quality cloth sails for this ship from HiSmodel in the Czech Republic. Anyway, wish me luck! obviously, i will be asking many questions.
  2. Hello folks, I already have a build log of my Revell Cutty Sark. Last week I had major surgery on my spine. I am not supposed to bend, lift or twist for a long time. I felt that working on the rigging of my Cutty Sark would involve those movements inadvertently. The rigging is what I need to do to finish the model. I will finish that model, I've come too far on it. So I started on this Robert E Lee steam boat Pyro model. With this I just sit at my table and work with my hands and not much movement. My kit is Pyro | No. 237-795 | 1:163 My kit is complete and was issued in 1961. I have a full set of plans that are described at the Online Steamboat Museum as : This is a set of huge drawings of the Robert E. Lee. Nine plates or pages (blueprints) each page 48"x17.5" and completed in 1977. They were used, I believe, by a world-class model builder and supplier of parts from Royal Oak, MI. to either cast parts for the model or it was one in his collection. Rare history of the robert e. lee is included. I've had contact with the illustrator and he admits he never signed his earlier drawings which makes this quite valuable I would believe. I also have "The Western Rivers Steamboat Cyclopedium" by Alan L Bates along with other reading on steamboats and the Robt E Lee itself. I have seen other discussions of this model and the Robert E. Lee itself on other sites. A lot of the information there I feel is conjecture. Seems not many people know much about steamboats. I have been reading about the boat. That is where I get my opinion about the conjecture. I will try to document the reasons for the detail I am adding using my reference material, so that my information is not conjecture. I am trying to make an accurate model but as stated elsewhere, Pyro's model is probably not 100% accurate and I won't change it much. Pyro's model was reissued by Lindberg. I have built this model before. I learned new things that I didn't know then. Pyro's model does not match the plans much at all. Like My Cutty Sark I do not intend to rework the model in any way. I do add details where I think they could enhance the model. The plans and the Cyclopedium have general information that is useful in building any steamboat model. So let me know if you are interested in another build log of this model. This drawing is similar to the Pyro model.
  3. Part 01 This is a build of the Skipjack Carrie Price using the Pyro Chesapeake Skipjack Oyster Boat model kit. After some research I found out that the Lindberg/Pyro kit is a model of the Carrie Price as recorded by Howard Chapelle. After I started the kit I found the name cast on the transom, but had not noticed it before I started my research. The Carrie Price is one of the projects in “American Ship Models and How to Build Them” by V. R. Grimwood and Howard I. Chapelle. I am using the plans in this book to build and update this kit. I am planning to depict her as build around 1895. I’m not going to make this a museum quality model, but will do my best to make it a good one. According to the Chapelle drawings the model comes as close as I could measure to 1/64th scale, the same as the book drawings. This will be somewhat of a slow build, as I am also working to expand my shed/shop, and the finished section is a mess, with “stuff” from the unfinished portion (enclosed, but no insulation, electric, etc.) piled into the finished area and my work area. Also I decided to do this build log after I had partially assembled the hull, so I will have to describe some of what I have done so far, without the benefit of before and after photos, in the first parts. I also have the help of cats in writing this build, so have to take frequent “Look, I want attention, so I’m sitting/walking/sleeping on your keyboard.” breaks. This is my first model in quite some time and my first build log ever, so please bear with me, if you decide to follow this along with me. I do not know all the correct names for all the various parts of the boat, but will do my best. Modeling suggestions and corrections to the names I use for the parts welcome! I will be using information in the Grimwood book, information I found on line, the drawings for the Willie Bennett by Model Shipways, and the book “Model Boat Building: The Skipjack” by Steve Rogers. Box Cover Art The kit is fairly close to what is shown in the drawings, but does have several problems. Here is a list of those I have found so far: Minor, but paint scheme shown on box wrong. The Chesapeake Boatmen were superstitious about painting blue on their boats, the exception being blue in the field of the American flag, or bunting. This was generally used only on the trailboard decoration. Also the decks were painted white, not left natural. Red copper paint was also the standard at the time for the anti-fouling paint. The cabin tops were generally green or a slate gray, from my research, still looking into this. The trailboards below the bowsprit were ornate, the kit has nothing decal or otherwise for them. I have no information on what the Carrie Price’s trailboards looked like, so I will use a modification of those detailed in the Willie Bennett kit. The Bennett trailboards have features that are common on examples I found of other trailboards. (besides I already redrew the Bennett’s trailboards for my own use). Additionally the drawings indicate a bird figurehead at the end of the trailboards. The Bennett has such a figurehead. I will use the same graphic as on the Bennett drawing on the end of these trailboards. I plan to print one on the end of the trailboard graphic, and then shape the profile of the stem to match. I will not try to crave a 3D figurehead. Trailboard Ida May Trailboard for Caleb W. Jones. Note the stem brace that is similar to the Carrie Prices. Trailboard of the Nathan Dorchester Port trailboard graphic I will be using for the Carrie Price. It will be about 2 inches long on the model. Here is a roughly cut print of the port trailboard placed on the model to see what it would look like. The print is cut too thin at the fore end to fit between the soon to be removed detail. Note also the original railing and knightheads. I have just started to remove the stem detailing at this point. The numbering for the points below should have started with 4,5, etc. but somehow was reset when I copied the text to this post, and I can't seem to change it. Please bear with me as I learn. As an interesting side note, if you look at the pictures of the Jones and Dorchester, the bowsprit does not rest on the stem much past the hull, on these two. I’ll have to look closer at the Bennett plans and the Rogers book. There are some major fit problems in the pieces, nothing that can’t be fixed with some putty, but they must be corrected for a good looking finished model. See the stem keel joint in the cover art picture. There is no oyster dredging equipment included in the model. This is actually a bonus for me, as she was built before the use of power dredging winches, and thus the deck casting has no marks where the winch parts might be attached. The down side is that I will have to build 2 hand powered winches, for which I have found some photos/drawings, but none with dimensions. The stem in the trailboard/rail/ bowsprit area is incorrect. I’ll explain when I get to that section. See the heavy detailing on the box top The railings in the bow and stern do not extend far enough. Rope coil castings in the deadeye and stern railing areas are terrible and incorrect, I will remove them. The mast is a little crude, but most importantly badly warped. I will have to make a new one. The boom is also warped, but I may be able to use it with modification. The casting is fairly straight side to side, but curved vertically fore and aft. The long booms on the real boats sagged, but my boom is curved up rather than down! I have not decided whether to make a new one (with or without sag), or remove the sail attachment detail from the top of the boom, invert it and remake that detail. I’m leaning toward making a new one, with detailing that matches the proportions of the ones on the mast I will have to make. The furled sails are just wrong! The jib is not too bad, in real life it would have been furled tighter, but this could pass. The main sail on the other hand angles in the opposite direction from the mast rake! The main sail is attached to the mast via mast hoops and thus the leading edge should always be close to the mast, it can’t pull away as shown in the model. I’ll make new sails, I have not decided whether furled or set. I can use the plans from my Willie Bennett kit for rigging, and sail construction. On the prototype skipjacks the bowsprit has made with a downward curved hog or bow. This was cut into the shape of the bowsprit, it was not steamed in from a straight spar. On the model the bowsprit is a straight spare. Also, as is not atypical on plastic models, the fittings on this, the mast, and the boom are cast quite massively. The model part also has no round to octagonal to square transition area, as shown in the plans. The model overall though is accurate in dimension and overall shape, a good starting point. As a note: The kit includes two ship’s boats, this is correct. The large boxes in interior are also correct. They are engine covers. Maryland law dictates that the skipjack itself may not have an engine, sail driven only. This is a measure to limit oyster harvesting in hopes of preventing overfishing. The auxiliary though is allowed an engine. If the wind is insufficient for dredging the boat, oddly enough called a “Push Boat” is lowered and used to push the skipjack. If the wind is good, the boat is not used. The second boat provided is the one used to get from the shore/dock, to a moored skipjack. The engines on the auxiliaries were generally automobile or similarly sized motors. Push Boat drawing from Nation Archives. Note the lack of a rudder. The Push Boat direction is controlled by steering lines (see below). Push Boat in operation. Note the rigging for controlling the direction of thrust, from Nation Archives. Push Boat “Thrust Pad” on the E. C. Collier, from Nation Archives I will show some small sections of the plans to illustrate where I will be making some of the modifications. Other than the hull/railing details above , most will be in the rigging area, so I will just show photos of my progress for that.
  4. Hi Everyone. My Next build I have opted to go for out of my stash is Vasco Da Gama's Flagship Carrack the " Santa Catarina do Monte Sinai" on his 3rd Voyage to Portuguese India in 1524. Although a smaller kit with the hull at 26cm with bowsprit and stern mast added the full length will be 41cm approx. This kit with its beautiful architectural moulding(photos below) has has the potential to be a little cracker. Albeit this is will take some time as there is a lot of very small articulate painting. I am also going to try and make New yards for the masts so I can make cloth sails for this, as much as the plastic moulded sails/yards together have good detail on them, I much prefer cloth ones. I will also have to experiment with the colour scheme a bit as actual original carrack colours seem to differ a bit every time on a different website and from the kit instructions which aren't very good. I will also have to re examine the rigging as the instructions again aren't great. I guess this will probably hold as man challenges as a bigger kit, but I really wanted to do this kit as I love the history of it and it's a step back from the normal a bit. Hopefully I will be starting this in the next couple of days if not the start of next week 👍🤺🤺🤺⚓⚓⚓
  5. This very old and rare kit was provided to me by a good friend. Indeed, I was not aware that such a ship type was available in plastic. The kit is made in the 1960s, and I was very interested trying it out. It is very small is size, but it has proven to be a handfull nevertheless. Its issues are several, but still I tried to make something out of it.
  6. U.S.S. Alliance by Pyro. Bit of a story about why I am building this kit. Missed two holidays this year due to lockdown. Third holiday lockdown eased one week before. Both my wife and I still not completely comfortable going out so chose a small kit to do whilst away. Holiday was for my 50th Birthday. Wife booked as a surprise 18 months ago and is a small cottage right on the tracks of a heritage railway in Somerset England. Unfortunately no locomotives running and needs £350,000 before can start again. Understandably she is very upset as spoilt her surprise. A long time since I have done a plastic kit, (although have two others up to rigging stage), so this has been a story of disasters so far. No where to get supplies to replace defective items. I manage to pack every thing in the box with the kit that I thought I would need. Or I thought I had. Some photographs of the kit, sorry started before thinking to post on here. I Brought on impulse after seeing on ebay and the kit arrived day before leaving for the holiday. I have done some research but cannot decide what it is i am building. Kit History is below: She is obviously not this vessel. The first Alliance was a frigate and would not have an Engine or prop. Gun arrangement is very strange and i have not been able to find other examples of this. The second Alliance was built in 1875 ( which means I have placed in wrong forum area) but not sure if this is that vessel either. I think you will have to make your own minds up. I must stress, don't expect wonders with this build as only for fun. It may also be abandoned for a while was I am back at home. I have put hull together and installed some deck furniture and started to prime the deck. First issue is that the kit gives part numbers but none on the moulds. My first disasters are that the super glue I brought with me has gone off and the white paint is like treacle. Not going well so far!! Then I noticed that I had forgot my Thinners and mixing pallet for washing the deck. - Not going well so far.
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