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Have you ever browsed through your favorite build to see what the full build looks like at the present time? Have you ever wondered what else is being built on MSW 2.0, it may be a kit, scratch, R/C, card or plastic, or any other material, including digital reconstruction. I am inviting all members to post one latest photo of their build (side elevation)and a link to that build, so everyone can see what it looks like, and give others an idea of what else is going on. I am not trying to create a multitude of build logs under one topic, just photo’s so we can all see what is going on. Please delete any other photo's you may have posted in this thread, This will possibly help others in deciding on what to build next Anyone interested?
Let me start by saying the scale listed is just a guess - nowhere on the plans, box, or instructions is a scale given. The pilot house is 4" from the deck to the roof, so at 5/8" scale it would be 6"5". I'm calling it a reasonable guess! This kit is from the 1980's, and the owner wants to see it finished. This should be a fun build. I can see some extra detailing, especially the interior. Although designed to be R/C, it will be a static model. The balsa wood hull side will be replaced with basswood for starters. Here's the kit contents:
Greetings, This is my first build log, and I currently have 3 ships in dry dock. I am working on a Hannah SIB (1/3 completed, and build log pending), MSW Fair American (still on the lofting floor), and this Billings Boats Karoline model. Karoline was a Dutch Potato Boat in the winter and a fishing boat in the summer. The kit consists of an ABS hull with brass and plastic fittings and cloth sails. Length: 1080mm / 42.5in Beam: 330mm / 13in Scale: 1/15 I picked this up this week from a local Hub Hobby in MN. The kit had been on the shelves for a LONG time. I saw it there 5 years ago and almost bought her but decided against it. I have regretted the decision, but was excited to see it still there and at discount. Not sure how long they have had it, but from what I can tell, the model is from the '80s. The factory plastic wrap was still on the box, but had some rips and moving the box produced quite a clatter of pieces inside. The helpful cashier allowed me to open the box and inspect all the pieces prior to purchase to ensure nothing was broken or obviously missing. Fast forward two nights. Last night, in my spare moments I decide to do a detailed inventory of the parts and instructions etc. Pretty basic instructions in the "Ikea fashion" of lots of picture with hardly any text. Shouldn't prove to be too complicated of a build; however, rigging might be a bit of an issue. As I started to work on the hull (which is molded plastic and will receive wood framing for the deck and gunwales), I noticed my first challenge. The sheet of plywood pieces is warped. The missing pieces there are the stem and stern posts which have some torque to them as well. Any thoughts on how to flatten this piece of wood? Thanks for your help. The plan for tonight after work will be to cut the excess plastic off of the hull and wash it to have it ready for painting when the time comes. Yours, Nathan EDIT: Added more photos. Unboxing:
This is my abbreviated build log for my T37. The kit is made out of 1/16" thin Mahogany Plywood. For under $300 you recieve everything you need except Sandpaper and batteries. all the electronic and epoxy are included. Will Lesh is the designer and owner of Tippecanoe boats. He has the same guarentee as Model Shipways. He is just one those quality people that you find in the hobby. He has many different boats available but I would say the T37 is the most popular. It has become recognised as an official one design class of the AMYA (American Model Yatching Association). If you plan to race your boat I suggest you inquire about the racing upgrade. So lets get started! All of the plywood parts are laser cut so there is very little rough edge to sand. But I did start by light sanding of all parts. The you use straight pins to create a line along the bottom of the sides that is 1/16" from the edge. This will hold the bottom in place while the Eposy sets.