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Found 3 results

  1. hello everybody, I've just joined this forum and have two newbie questions in regard to building the keel of the Caldercraft 1:64 HM Schooner Ballahoo. I've read one or two build logs on here where people have left these parts off the false keel until after the bearding line and rabbet has been made. Being a beginner, I haven't done this on mine and gamely followed Caldercraft's instructions and glued the 5mm walnut keel, stem, sternpost together then onto the false ply keel (I plan to paint the keel white so avert your eyes from the glue stains) without a b
  2. I am building (first build) Lynx, Mantua Panart. The hull is double planked and per the instructions each side will be 2.5mm thick. The keel, into which I am cutting the rabbet is only 5mm thick. Clearly this is not thick enough for all four planks to sit in their rabbets. Do any of you splendid folk have any advice. I was thinking I would not take the first skin into the rabbet and sand the planks down to the barding line. Then only put the outer skin into the rabbet. This, however would probably mean single thickness only in the dead wood area at the stern. Any thoughts?
  3. I am getting ready to start rattlesnake, I Dave at the lumberyard sent me the most incredible wood package imaginable so the questions begin. I am taking photos to hopefully start a log soon. Anyway, I am marking the rabbet when it occurred to me that if I make this open frame at least to the wales, do I need a rabbet? Maybe I will do more of a cutaway look than pure admiralty, ie planking at the bow and stern for a few inches then left open. Any thoughts and any logs to look at are welcome Thanks Ira
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