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Found 17 results

  1. See plastic model completed 'Golden hind' - now moving on to wood ships- Rattlesnake. See photos attached. struggling with the beginning of planking on the Rattlesnake!
  2. Not sure what the protocol is here for reposting a pre crash build log started in Apr 11. post a few to keep things simple I will go with a quick time line getting up to my current stage
  3. Static: Rattlesnake 1780 (Model Shipways MS2028) 1:64 Note: The first section of this log is a repost originally created in 2012 First, I would like to thank all of those who have taken the time to create or re-create thier logs on Model Ship World. Your efforts have been invaluable to me and I am sure will be to many others. Thank You All As for my story: I purchased the Model Shipways Rattlesnake kit around five years ago from a local hobby store. After assembling the false keel, I realized the magnitude of this endeavor and decided it best postponed for another day. The box sat on my shelf until recently when I found the Model Ship World forums. This is where I discovered the build logs, like great sagas, some taking years to complete, they inspired me, renewing my interest in ship modeling and giving me the confidence to restart this project. Kit Review/Preview: According to the manufacturers website http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2028 The kit is an Intermediate Level build. Originally, a solid hull kit, it was converted to plank on bulkhead with updated instructions in 1994 by Ben Lankford. The rigging, hull details, and original kit were done in 1963 by George F. Campbell based on Admiralty draughts and an earlier reconstruction published by Howard L Chapelle. The manual is informative and judging by comments posted regarding other manufacturer’s attempts, seems to be above average. It is not however, as clear as some of the other manuals provided by this same manufacturer. All of instructions for the Model Shipways kits sold on the Model Expo site are available for download at no cost. As are some very helpful practicums. These were very useful to me, either clarifying the steps in the manual, or elaborating on tasks in which I have no experience. The parts in the kit are, again to my untrained eye seem to be of good quality. The wood contained in the kit is primarily Basswood and this I am sure is to maintain an affordable initial cost, allowing the builder to add wood upgrades at his own expense, and choosing. Castings seem OK, only requiring minimum cleanup, and a generous supply of additional hardware is included. Two double-sided sheets of plans round out the kit. I picked up some inexpensive wood for the optional second planking and recently purchased a few additional lengths of Cherry plus a sheet of Walnut. Overall, I am very pleased with the product Model Shipways provides. I would like this log to be as open as possible. I will attempt to post pictures, comments, questions, and any information I discover on the way as I have seen others do. I will also try to accommodate any request for additional pictures or responses so please feel free to ask. My goal is to create an atmosphere encouraging feedback, especially those pertaining to any corrections/improvements regarding the methods needed to complete this model. I enjoy writing so I will apologize for my wordiness from the start. My main priority however is to just have fun and enjoy the hobby and this blog. Comments, criticisms, or suggestions, are always welcome and appreciated! Please note that I have very little or no experience in model shipbuilding. I have built some RC aircraft, rockets, and if I can use the phrase “a boatload” of plastic.
  4. I final finished my first wooden boat, the Mini Mamoli British Schooner Evergreen, a 1:125 Scale Solid Hull Model after a two year build. This was my first attempt at such an endeavor in 30 years. I had started the Billings Boat’s POB Zwarte Zee , an ocean tug back then but got about only about 85% complete. I never finished it. So with a completed build under my belt, I set my sights on the 1781 American Privateer, The Rattlesnake. I considered the Evergreen my “training wheels” for this build. Although technically the Zwarte Zee was my first POB boat, all of the planking flaws were covered up with wood filler and paint. This would be my first true test in this construction method. What you see is what I built for better or worse. This build was started in October 2010 and I have only now decided in May 2013, to post my build log. I was reluctant to do so because compared to the others members who post comments regularly and have submitted their many build logs, I am but a beginner. I have knowing or unknowingly made many errors, omissions, and mistakes. It would be like hanging out my dirty laundry. But after some prodding by some of the members, I agreed to post my build if anything to show the error of my ways to anyone who wants to follow a slooow moving project. I had a choice of the Mamoli or the Model Shipway kit. After a little research I discovered Robert Hunt’s Practicum (http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/) and thought this is just perfect for me. Having struggled through the minimal instructions of the Norwegian translation for the Zwarte Zee and the simplistic instructions translated from the Italian for the Evergreen, and after reading the free sample Chapter 1 with its highly detailed instructions and detailed photographs, I was easily convinced to purchase Robert’s practicum. There I found that the practicum was based on the Mamoli kit, so I chose that kit to build. To be fair, Mr. Hunt did state that his practicum could also be used for the Model Shipway kit. The practicum was written to both supplement and enhance the original kit instructions or to kitbash the project. Because the “journey” to me is the purpose of building a model, rather than the destination, the final model, I chose to build the kitbash and plunked down my money: · Basic kit - ~$240 · Robert Hunt’s Practicum (http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/) - $150 · Harold Hahn’s plans ¼” scale - $45 · Reduce the Hahn plans 74% to match the kit’s 3/16” scale (1:64) - ~$25 · Hobbymill Wood Package (http://www.hobbymillusa.com/) - $210 This not a cheap build/modification. This does not include the tools that I accumulated and still am accumulating for this project. Hell, it’s a hobby, so it’s OK, that and the fact that I just retired and am a bachelor. A kitbash goes beyond what the basic kit instructs to make the model more interesting, challenging, and pleasing. In this case Mr. Hunt’s practicum is based on the model Harold Hahn, a master model builder, built using plans he created based directly from the original British Admiralty drawings. Although this is an American ship, it was captured by the British and it is from them we can thank for having the historical drawings and the name Rattlesnake. In this model Mr. Hahn used direct woods to create the colors of the ship. Therefore in keeping true the Hahn model, the practicum substitutes the basic kit wood with a wood package purchased separately from Hobbymill (http://www.hobbymillusa.com/); and has you purchase the Harold Hahn copyrighted plans which Robert is basing his kitbashing modifications. Since Mr. Hahn built his model in ¼” scale, the plans have to reduce to match the kit scale of 3/16” (1:64). Your ordinary office copy won’t do the trick due to the size of the sheets. You need a large copier and one that can do reductions, specifically 74%, the kind found at a large stationary store, graphics, or engineering firm.
  5. So this will be my 3rd build and my first model shipways kit. Up front I am impressed with the supplied kit. After inventory the any issue was some broken or bent cannons. I have read extensively about model shipways customer service so we will see how that works out. Oh yea and just to let everyone know up front I am an absolute F.U.N.G. So most of the proper terms for the parts of the ship are beyond me, but I am learning. Makes me wish I had payed a little more attention about navel history during boot camp. So here we go !
  6. Throwing my hat into the ring with the Rattlesnake, I received the kit about two weeks ago but put it aside to finish my longboat. I picked up the fair a frame kit from modelexpo at the same time and started putting it together last night. After I get back from the family Christmas it will be time to implement a lesson learned from my longboat build, measure, separate and label all the wood, cordage, blocks, deadeyes etc to ensure I don't use the wrong size when I'm not paying attention then it will be off to the turtle races!
  7. Okay boys and girls, as I've been saying, I finally got my Rattlesnake kit as promised for Christmas. Last night I sat up rather late into the night to read the opening pages. Yawn, had to go to bed after the first 5 pages. Today I finished and got the keel out and started working. Remembering to take my time, read the instructions and look at the plans several times before making a move. As previous people had mentioned in their posts about the Model shipways drawings, yes, they do not match up exactly to the cut out wood pieces. Sadly I was hoping that it was a fluke but it is true :-( Anyways, knowing this, it really did not hinder the start of my project. I've also read where the wood is extremely fragile. Yep, found that out already too. Didn't even realize that I had my finger too close to one of the bulkhead seperation spaces and as I was flipping over the keel to put pencil markings on the other side I heard the faintest of "snicks" "Son of a Witch!" Good thing I was in the glueing process. LOL. Anyways, here is the start. Please comment all you want on my progress and offer any suggestions you can. It has been a long time since I built a wood ship and my first to this scale and detail. Here is the keel with the suggested markings as per the instructions. Got the rabbet line on, the water line on and the bulkhead markings. I saw where one modeler sanded the rabbet line to size. Not wanting to really work with chisels I think I'll take the extra effort to sand this to size.
  8. I am new to the Model Shipways community, and I suspect I am one of your younger members (born 1988 - anyone younger?). I grew up on an island in Maine and was always around boats, and my whole life I have been doing something boat-related in one way or another. The neighborhood kids had tree houses; I had a rowboat in the yard that my dad had turned into a kid-sized lobster boat. When I was growing up I made many simple boats from kits (the kind with a solid hull and like ten simple blocks that you glued on for detail). I had a Titanic phase some time before middle school: plastic models, paper models, and high-pitched lectures about waterproof compartments and buckling steel to anyone who would listen. In the last few years, I made two small plank-on-frame boats from kits, the first with my dad and the second on my own, after a crash course in plank bending from a neighbor who I wouldn’t be surprised to find on this forum. Last year my parents called me from a weekend getaway in a small town and said they had found the Rattlesnake kit, on sale, in a hobby store, and wanted to know if I would like it for my birthday. I thought it would be fun to get back into model ship building. At the time, my main hobby was an iPad app I was writing in my spare time, but that’s also partly my job, and it was a bit of a programming overload, and I wanted to do something in the real world for a change. I built my last models when I lived with my parents, so I had fun setting up a work bench in my apartment and getting new tools. I started with more or less nothing, and have bought tools only when I actually needed them. I didn’t know about the Model Ship World forums when I started my build. I wanted to document my progress, so I set up a tumblr account for this and other projects that I work on. I only found my way here when I started googling around with questions about this particular model, and discovered at least two other build logs for the same exact model. What an amazing resource! The first bunch of posts will be reposts of the same photos from tumblr, though I may embellish the text with technical details better suited for my fellow pintsize shipwrights. It seems customary to start with the box, so I will as well, along with a sneak peek of my current progress: I look forward to interacting with and learning from all of you as my build progresses. I welcome your feedback and questions, and I will have many questions of my own.
  9. Has anyone who is or has built Model Shipways Rattlesnake replaced the supplied cannons with another supplier. I am looking at Syren 29.75mm one which should be very close to the original 27mm ones. I am on my second attempt to relace half of the originals, but the first replacements are just as bad. Thanks to all for your input
  10. Hello, Fresh start is sometimes a good thing, the new forum looks much nicer and already while attaching "new" pictures it's evident that usability is improved. Anyway, I'll try to recapture my log so far with five pictures of reaching the main stages, which I consider to be checking what's inside of timbering set (the fun part), completing framing, planking, deck support structures, carvings and current situation. I must warn that there's slow phase in my build at the moment -- plastic models (not ships!) are taking more time than wooden ones, and I intend to build road bike wheel set before summer as well -- but I know myself and I'll return to this build eventually. I'm mainly posting this first post already now mainly to say I'm OK with the full reset. (My La Belle (1684) build is on hold, and I'll resume its log once I actually continue working on it.) Pasi
  11. Hello there everyone. I suppose this will be both an introduction to both myself, and the build of my Model Shipways Rattlesnake Privateer. This will be my first wooden ship build. I've built a few Radio Controlled airplanes, and quite a few high power rockets so I'm familiar with some techniques and woodworking/modeling. I've always been fascinated by tall ships, and have always wanted to build a kit. Well, after some random searching over the course of a year or so, I stumbled upon both this site, and the Model-expo site. I caught a great "year end sale" from model-expo on this kit so I couldn't resister....figured even if I really botch it up it's more a waste of time then money. There is a ton of great info on this site!!! For the last month or so I've been doing some research, and reading the build logs of Jpett, Eric and Scott L. I've picked up quite a lot of information but I've got a lot of learning, a lot of trial and error and a lot of work coming up but I'm very excited for the challenge. Firs thing upon receiving my kit this week was just opening it up and doing a parts inventory. It appears that everything that's supposed to be included is in the box, so onto the reading and first baby steps of the build! I've gotten the two center keel pieces marked and glued together as per the instructions and plans and have the stern and back half of the keel glued on. The front half of the keel and the stem are going to need some sanding to properly fit. I've cutout the area of the stem for the figurehead and will be working on tapering it to get him to fit on it. I've also made photocopies of each of the bulkheads as well, which I will cut out and fold in order to check for their symmetry, as per Scott L's method. This eliminates the need for accurate pencil and cutting work, and just relies on an accurate fold. I have a few questions already however: 1.) After cutting out the bulkheads, I've noticed that a few of them are warped...some more then others. I was wondering if this is going to be an issue, and I should soak them and get some weight on top to flatten them out. I'm not sure if it will wind up being a problem later on or not, what with them getting faired up to fit the planks anyway. 2.) My center keel also seems to be warped. After making sure the waterlines were properly aligned I glued the two pieces together and placed a weight across it to assure that it was flat. However after removing it and checking to see if the keel was in fact straight, I noticed that the aft section of the keel is actually warped. I'm again wondering if this needs to be soaked and flattened out? 3.) The last one for now just concerns the stem. The manual states to taper the stem. The plans show a top view showing the front to back taper, but not how far down the stem the taper is "supposed" to go. My assumption is that the taper begins around the water line, where it would've been "effective" on the actual ship cutting through the water.I know it's not something that has a major effect on the outcome of the ship, I would just like it to "look right" Thanks for taking the time to stop by and check out my build! I'm really looking forward to the upcoming challenges! I know it's going to be difficult, but with the help from all the awesome people on here, some good music and of course good beer, everything should work out in the end
  12. A friend of mine purchased this kit several years ago, I think he cut the tape, looked in the box, closed the box, and put it on the top shelf in his closet, never to be seen again. So when he heard I had started the Latham, he asked if I wanted it. After a crisp $50 bill, it was headed for it's new home. While waiting for parts for my Benjamin Latham, I figured this might be a good build to switch to for now. I inspected the parts against the parts list, and it seems everything is there, and in good condition. I also broke down and ordered a Dremel 4000 6/50, which will be here tomorrow.
  13. Ahoy everyone – After benefitting so much from reading other people’s build logs, I finally came to the realization that I should participate by doing more. And so, after talking with a few of my fellow Rattlesnakes in Pms, I’ve decided to take the plunge and post a log of my own build. I’m about 2/3 through the standing rigging, so this is where I’m starting. First of all I have to give credit where it’s due, and say that I’m bashing the Mamoli kit with the guidance of Bob Hunt’s practicum. I came across Bob’s practicum when I started rigging my previous (and first) square-rigged model, The Prince de Neufchatel – the kit’s instructions left me utterly baffled, and so I bought 2 of Bob’s practicums, the one on rigging, and the 2nd half of the Rattlesnake practicum, which deals wholly with the rigging of that model. Because those helped me out beyond what I’d even hoped for, I decided to do the Rattlesnake as my next build, following his kit-bashing instructions. This was a big step, and pretty much over my head, since I’d only built one other model. But I decided to go SLOWLY and to treat the build as another learning experience (and lots of little learning experiences). The first photo shows the masts sitting in the hull with the standing rigging attached (don’t mind the clutter in the background, please). The second photo shows the masts lying on the mat. The mizzen mast is raked slightly, and I tried to accommodate for that by angling the top and the cap – and I was sure I’d gotten them parallel before the glue dried, but found after the glue dried that I was off pretty noticeably. That’s one of numerous errors. The third photo shows the spars. The 2 on the left are another couple of errors – when I was laying them out for the photo, I realized I’d put the cleats on the wrong side in relation to the chocks. But I think these will be a lot easier to fix than the top & cap. The masts are spruce. The spars are boxwood. For the caps I used walnut, since I had that on hand in the right dimension. The tops are holly planking over a sheet of thin plywood; they’re too thick, especially with the edge I put on, but the other alternatives of just using plywood or cutting big lap joints in the planking didn’t seem satisfactory for different reasons. I might mention that I started off shaping the masts & spars with the method described by Frank Mastini using a drill as a lathe. That method has the advantage of enabling you to get the taper down pretty fine at the ends of the spars, and of keeping the tapers symmetrical. The drawback is that you have to add about 1/4 inch to each end of the stock to fit into the drill chuck, and even then when the taper gets thin the spar breaks easily, and you can’t get a good fit in the chuck with a tapered piece of wood (and the chuck will leave grooves in the wood). After the first couple of spars, I switched over to the method described by David Antscherl in the Rigging volume of the Swan Class series. I like that method because it uses hand tools – a chisel & a jig. I used an exacto knife and set the stock in the groove in the jaws of my vise. Since 99% of my aim is to learn and improve my skills, forcing myself to take the time and care to cut and shape the spars by hand will payoff some time. I could not get them tapered as finely as I wanted, and keeping them symmetrical also proved more of a challenge than with the drill method. But – this is the mystical part – I felt closer to the wood, and got more satisfaction from working that way. Next up: although Bob Hunt doesn’t include crow’s feet, I’ve decided that I’m going to give them a shot – again, I want to learn how it’s done, and they are shown in Harold Hahn’s plans. I’m also really intrigued by Antscherl’s use of served line, and I think I’m going to do that for the collars on the Bowsprit. Cheers, Martin
  14. Hi all! My name is Tyleen. I will be repeating myself just a bit since the first part of this info is on a different post but anyway. I started building the Rattlesnake Privateer several weeks ago (Plank on Bulkhead). This is my first ship model. I have built car models when I was younger about 35 - 40 years ago. My knowledge of ships is negative 50 hehe but I think they look really cool and I was looking for something to do. Here are some pictures of what I have accomplished so far. I have been taking my time on this seeing how I do not know what anything is and have to look it all up. I really want this ship to turn out good. Not sure how good or bad I did on beveling the rabbet to the center keel. You cannot see it too well in the pictures. How do I know I got it right? I am suppose to bevel the bulkheads now but to scared to do that. Should I just do what the plans say?Seems like they want to shave a lot off on bulkhead A. Seems like bulkhead A and M are way off when trying to test a plank. So I thought I would wait and decided to work on the long boat. I see how Kenneth Powell did his long boat. I think I should have looked at his before I did mine. I stacked all the pcs together but did not realize I was suppose to take the center pc out and just use the outer part. No big deal though I had a lot of fun carving it all out with my dremel. Hope it looks ok. Cannot wait to finish it. I had stained it before I put it together. I was wanting to see what this wood would look like stained that's what the dark lines on the inside are. I carved out the counter block next (still scared to mess with carving the bulkheads). Mine is not as pretty as Kenneth's. I have never carved anything out of a solid block before, or from anything else for that matter, but I had my trusty Dremel! I love that thing!! After looking at Kenneth's counter block I may have to do mine over. So I suppose I need to bevel the bulkheads and I am asking for an suggestions on how to make sure I sand them properly? Is bulkhead A and M suppose to be so far off from the rest or am I do sand everything down to curve better toward A and M? Thanks! oops sorry hehe new to all this. I will try to explain things better. My first ship. These 3 pictures of the keel is beveled but it is hard to see. I may not have gone deep enough. I used a dremel which I think works well. I tried the chisel but I was not good at it. The dremel can sand out the area. I used the point of one tool to help shape it but I think I need to redo it and try to bevel it better. Here I punched out the pcs of the longboat and glued them together. Not realizing I was suppose to just use the outside of the pc. This is where I started sanding out the inside of the boat. I used a rounded head tool of the dremel. It does look like a puddle but it is the beginning of my sanding. This is what the longboat looks like after sanding. I use different tools of the dremel. Sorry not sure of the names of the different tools but I can look them up if anyone needs to know which ones. The brown in the boat is stain. I was trying out a stain to see what it looked like on this type of wood. It actually helped guide me as to how deep I was going with the sanding. most of the stain is now sanded off. Also I saved all my sawdust. It really helps if you sand too deep (which I did). I used the sawdust mixed with wood glue, let it set over night and was able to sand it again. You could barley see my mistake. I do not have the bulkheads attached yet. I had no troubles getting the bulkheads to fit although I did have a pc break between bulkhead C and the mast slot. That pc is so thin. I am going to be working on the bulkheads soon as I make sure my bevel is correct. Hope this works
  15. Looking far far ahead at some of the rigging instructions for my Rattlesnake privateer (I'm only at the first planking stage...), it has a "horse" (part # 125) for the mizzen boom sheet. #264 is the mizzen boom: On the model, this is bent brass wire. Anybody have an image or a description of how a horse actually looked? I don't know what the Model Shipways version does for this rigging. Lees in '...Masting and Rigging..." mentions the horse but suggests an eyebolt was generally used, such as this image from Petersson "Rigging Period Ship Models". I suspect using a horse versus the eyebolt was the model designer's choice and not necessarily the definitive arrangment. I'd likely go with the eyebolt version without a better vision of the looks of a "proper" horse. Thanks! Brian
  16. Here it is again, my build log of the Mamoli Rattlesnake. Following the crash of the Model Ship World forum in early 2013, the following shows pictures only of the build as it progressed between June 2012 and February 2013. Text and descriptions are added only to pictures published after February 2013. Feel free, however, to ask any questions you might have when browsing through the documentation. This is my first build of a wooden ship (although I do have some experience from plastic models). Since I have time to work on this kit only in the evenings and occasionally on the weekends, I am sure it will take me a while to finish. But Rome wasn't built in one day either I chose the Rattlesnake cause it looks fairly "strong", elegant and even impressive, almost like a frigate, while not being too challenging for a first build. Some background information from http://www.mamolimodel.com/'>Mamoli: Scale: 1:64 Length: 697 mm Height: 463 mm

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