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  1. Hi. I'm trying to date a historical map, and it has been suggested that someone on this forum might recognise particular features of ships drawn on the margin (see below) which might pin the dating down to a particular decade of the 18th century. The map itself (of part of the south coast of England) is very sketchy, and what seems to be an even sketchier copy of it in the same archive collection has accounts scribbled on the back dated 1750. I'd be interested to know the likely occupation of the depicted ships too. Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions! Stephen (
  2. I find myself continually bumping up against my ignorance. I feel pretty good about getting my masts assembled to be straight. Now I'm adding the various blocks that will be part of the running rigging. There are a number of blocks - see picture below - that are attached to the one mast or the other between the cross trees and the cap. I cannot make out what knot to use to properly attach those blocks to the mast. Can I please get some advise on how to rig these blocks in an authentic way? Thanks, Rich Klecker
  3. Hi everyone! Im new to ship modeling and i recently started my first ship, the AL Bon Retour. I have looked a lot of information up in this forum (you guys are amazing) and in others. Im hoping, once the ship is done, to upload the final producto for you guys to see. Im at the point where the hull has been planked and painted over, and im moving to rigging. This has proven to be very challenging, since AL kits dont usually come with a lot of pictures, and understanding the diagrams for a novice like me is taking me some time. I have a question. There are some "blocks" on the mast of
  4. After many months I am now at the point of putting masts on the model and I can't make myself get started. I'm building AL's L'Hermione. I have cut and tapered the masts, they're painted and some of the blocks are installed. The AL instructions for this portion of the build are very abbreviated - read just pictures, no descriptions at all. The picture show the details for the individual masts and then it shows the masts assembled and ready to be placed into the hull. As I think about how I would assemble an entire mast I begin to wonder how that mast can be built to be straight and the individ
  5. This post is intended for anyone who has built, is building, or is contemplating building HMS Victory, whether in kit form or scratch built. Others with an interest in Rigging generally may also like to chime in. I've come across an interesting conundrum regarding the rigging of Victory that other Victory builders may be interested in. I spent several hours poring over documentation to try and work out the use of Yard Tackle Pendants and Brace Block Pendants. I consulted several sources, but my primary reference for any assertions here is Longridge. I also sent a PM to Gil Middleton to
  6. January 2014 – After 21 years of sitting in a large box of packing peanuts I decided to resurrect the Mamoli Constitution. Luckily I had packed everything carefully. The ship’s hull and some of the tools were in the box, the remaining wood and parts were taped up in the original kit box. The scale of the model is 1:93. I pulled the plans and started to review where I left the build off. I had completed the outer hull (which is double planked on bulkheads), including the green tiles representing each of the copper plates. The main deck was not planked and the forward bulkhead while started on
  7. Hello all, Just recently joined this excellent ModelShipWorld website and have a 'beginner's question'. I'm about to start the masts and rigging on my Dallas 1815 Cutter (my first build) and I recall reading somewhere that it can be a good idea to make a dummy deck first. The idea being to put the masts on the dummy deck (plank of wood) and do all the rigging etc on it, and then transfer the lot to the real deck. That would prevent accidental damage to fittings etc on the real deck whilst I fumbled about with rigging. Or should I just 'get on w
  8. Hello, I'm 3D modelling the Black Pearl and I'm struggling to find any good reference on how the masts are supposed to be rigged. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  9. Can anyone recommend this book by David Antscherl? I am building the Winchelsea by following Chuck’s great instructions. It is my mind to look into the feasibility of rigging (at least to the main tops) this ship. Any help will be appreciated. I see the publishers also offer the plans and I was wondering if these include details of the mast’s, spars etc? Thank you.
  10. I am working on a kit from Corel of the HMS Victory. I started the standing rigging. I installed the Shrouds on all three masts. The ship then went on the back burner for about six months. When returning to the model to continue I found that the shrouds were sagging and loose. I tightened up on the dead eyes but now they are too close and uneven. So I am going to remove the shrouds and start fresh. My question is, do I need to stretch the rigging cord beforehand and if so what is the preferred method for this. Thanks, Dave.
  11. I've reached the point on my Scottish Maid that I need to rig the ratlines. I remember reading a method here on Model Ship World that involved using graph paper to make a template to keep them properly spaced. Before posing, I searched for those posts and couldn't find them. Anyone recall that method? It made all kinds of sense when I read it, but I need a refresher to actually do it. Thanks! Dan
  12. Hello all! I’m having great difficulty with this concept and am wondering if anyone has a solution? Essentially, I need to strop double blocks for rigging the cannons on my ship, but I am rather confused as to what happens to the end of the line. It seems like it is supposed to feed back into itself? That seems a little beyond my capabilities, but I’m very curious to see what others do. It’s something that’s so common, I don’t see the actual process mentioned very often, nor do I see it detailed much at larger scales. At a smaller scale, it’s a lot easier to give the illusion of a properly str
  13. In order for me to understand better the rigging practices for cutters of the 18th Century, I wrote to the National Maritime Museum asking if I could see some of the cutter models they have in storage, now that they no longer have a model display at the Museum in Greenwich. Nick Ball, the Assistant Curator of Ship Models, wrote back very quickly saying that I would be welcome to visit and could see all of the models I had requested which are now stored at the Royal Historic Dockyard in Chatham -- except for one which was stored in another location less accessible to the occasional visitor.
  14. I have the usual suspect textbooks: Lee, Marquardt, Zu Mondfeld, Davis. They have mast and yard length and diameter formulae for a number of nations but not Spain (except for Zu Mondfeld but his information is prior to the Napoleonic era and so not helpful .... Spanish spar formula probably changed with the surveyor). With the exception of the periods when the Spanish used English or French methods, is there a source of these formula? My books in Spanish, which I do not naturally read, all appear to provide information on Spars for actual ships (Frigate and above) and that just won't help
  15. Dear All, I proud to present my new PL4 series rope making machines. How to operate on YouTube Full details on ShipWorkshop.com Basic features 2-, 3- or 4-stranded; With/without the core; Plain laid or cable laid; Left or right lay. Series members PL4-3: 2, 3 strands, no core; PL4-4: 2-4 strands, with core. PL3.2 successor; Choosing the right machine Please consider followings choosing the machine: PL4-3 makes 3-strand ropes and cables little bit better and easier than PL4-4.
  16. Well, after researching as much as I could from the many contributors to this and other forums regarding how cannon should be rigged I made the call. For the main deck 6-pounders I went with breaching lines and frapped block and tackle. I made the choice to coil a small amount of line at each side of the gun rather than try to have all the line taken up with frapping. Unfortunately I went with french coils next to unfrapped block and tackle on the 10 cannons that are visible on the gun deck. I guess I'll just need to direct any inspecting admiral to the gun deck as quickly as possible. I had u
  17. I'm new to this forum and new to model wooden ship building. I'm impressed by the expertise of the many contributors and a bit apprehensive about joining in. Everyone seems to have a good attitude of collaboration, so here goes. I'm building the Artesania Latina Hermione. The hull planking and painting are done and I'm about to install - ship - the ten cannons and carriages that are visible on the main deck. The AL instructions and illustrations show the installation of line that passes through the carriage (breaching line?) and is attached at both ends to the bulwork. As I look
  18. Gentlemen, I am working on a Revell 1:96 scaled plastic model kit of USS Constitution (Kit # 85-0398). Somehow, according to instruction manual, the number of eyebolts needed seem to be way more than what came in the kit. And then I lost a couple while trying to pick up with forceps. They just jumped out of the grip and evaporated in thin air. So, I was wondering if there was any place I could call and purchase a set/packet or something. They are soooo tiny !!! At one point I thought I would make some from the plastic sticks remained after I took out the real parts. But that would be to
  19. I hope to rig my Revel 1/96 USS Constitution. I purchased 120 feet of Syren rope in three sizes (.012, .018, and.035) in dark brown, light brown and tan to represent Revel's small, medium, and large callouts in their instructions. I never rigged a ship and do not have a clue as to weather 120 feet is adequate, Anyone haven suggestions? Thank you!
  20. MAY 20TH THROUGH THE 24TH 2019 (MON-FRI) BlueJacket's rigging class is a popular event. We run it from 9 to 3 for 5 days (although some people leave early on Friday.) IT IS A CLASS FOR NOVICES. We don't assume you know anything about rigging a ship model. All tools and materials are provided with the class fee of $400. You get a hull to work on, all the sticks and dowels, the glue, blocks, deadeyes, threads, wire, beeswax, and the following tools: Excel hobby knife and blades Pin Vise Assortment of drill bits tweezers needle nose pliers
  21. Hello, I just ran across my daughter's copy of Ashley's Book of Knots by Clifford W. Ashley. It is probably the definitive work of knots for rigging ships and other ropework. It is an excellent reference work for modellers, but if you intend to apply the knowledge in everyday life, be very very careful to form the knots correctly. https://archive.org/details/TheAshleyBookOfKnots
  22. Dear friends, I proud to present next version of endless rope making machine (video to come soon): https://shipworkshop.com/products/tools/pl-3.2-endless-rope-making-machine PL 3.2 Endless rope making machine with traverse Fully automated ropewalk with traverse (rope making machine). Minimal control is needed. Basic features PL Endless rope making machine with traverse ("PL machine") is intended for making professional model ropes: 2-, 3- or 4-stranded; With/without the core; Plain laid or cable laid; Left or right lay.
  23. Dear friends, I proud to present next version of rope making machine (video to come soon): https://shipworkshop.com/products/tools/vr-31-rope-making-machine VR 3.1 Rope making machine (HD adaptable rope making machine. Former Ropewalk "Prosak") What's new: VR = Vertical ropewalk. New version of former ropewalk "Prosak". No need to reassemble for 3- or 4-stranded ropes. Can be secured on both horizontal and vertical surfaces. HD adaptable. Can be transformed into HD (Horizontal Design) machine. Not yet available. There are notches on th
  24. I recently found a complete Heller Drakkar "Osberg" plastic model kit at a vide grenier. It's the version with the lighter yellow Heller panel on the top left of the box, so from about 1971! 5€ seems like a bargain. As was standard, glue and rigging and paint are not part of the kit. l have three questions:- 1.) What glue, other than that currently sold by Heller online is appropriate for this kit? 2.) The notes say use Number 16 thread for the rigging. The inevitable Google search identifies how complex thread description can be. The only ‘16’ I can find is a weight of 16, the eq
  25. Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone that has done the Mamoli 1:90 victory and got to the end of the rigging and found they had enough string to complete the job? The more I look at people's builds on here the more I think there isn't gonna be enough string in the kit to do the job... The bag with the different sizes of string that came with my kit looks a little small to me. I haven't opened the bag yet to have a really good look at the strings, but from memory there doesn't look like there will be enough. My question is: Where can I buy some spares from?
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