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  1. Hi folks, the new project. I am not the sole builder of this model which is a club project for the Ship Modelling Society of Victoria. I am coordinating the build, doing the research, drawing the plans and assisting in the build process. I am providing this log as she is an interesting ship and I thought members may be interested. While designed as a warship along the lines of the contemporary Arrow and Vigilant Classes of Gun Dispatch vessels, she was operated in various roles, with only a very short period of active duty as a commissioned ship during the Maori Wars in New Zealand. Her Majesty’s Colonial Screw Sloop (HMCSS) Victoria was built for the defence of the Colony of Victoria during the gold rush era. The above image is a copy of a purchased image from The Illustrated London News which shows her during her Builders Trials. Additionally, as much of the hull construction has already been completed, I will providea summary of this part of the build only. Some questions related to researching this ship have been asked previously in other forums (see following links): http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5574-cat-head-dimensions/?hl=%2Bhmcss+%2Bvictoria http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3754-rigmaiden-patented-lanyard-plates/?hl=%2Bhmcss+%2Bvictoria http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3780-emergency-tiller-for-hmcss-victoria-question/?hl=%2Bhmcss+%2Bvictoria
  2. I am building the HMS Thorn Swan class of 1779, so far there is only one plan from the National Maritime Museum that makes any referance to this ship. She was part of the fleet that invaded Trinidad in in 1797 a fleet that carried my ancester to Trinidad. It is my plan to video the entire build on an ipad and post videos as i go along. So far i have made 5 videos on the build.
  3. Recently, I became interested in ships of the Colonial era. From a forum post about Chaleur I came across a lead to an extended article by Randle Biddle at the NRG. It discusses a his new design perspective about the Hannah. I found the article very novel and well thought out and it will be a great model project for me albeit a challenge. The article also includes plans by Randle Biddle: The plans are published by the Nautical Research Journal and are available to NRG members for download. That’s a great bargain and well worth the cost of joining the NRG. The plans consist of five sheets at 1:48 scale in jpeg format. I chose to upload four of the sheets to Staples blueprint service and they were ready the next day and look great. In a photo editor, the body plan was cropped into bow and stern half views then each mirrored and stitched back together to duplicate and cut up for station templates. This shot shows the significantly lower tonnage then Harold Hahn's plans. This will be a 1:48 scale scratch, plank on bulkhead model. I’ve seen some really great open-deck model versions and want to give that a try. This remarkable project by @tlevine of the Swallow 1779 will be a great resource for me to get through the planning pitfalls that I’m sure are coming my way. Comments, corrections and "watch out fors" always welcome. Mike
  4. My next model will be the Continental Sloop Providence. I became interested in this boat after reading, “Valour Fore & Aft”, by Hope Rider. Despite being a history of the boat, the book was a great, swashbuckling story. I recommend it. The boat was built by a Rhode Island merchant named John Brown several years before the American Revolution and was named the Katy. The sloop was converted to a privateer and commanded by three excellent captains, and during its voyages, achieved several ‘firsts’ for the Continental navy. The first captain was Abraham Wipple. The Katy, under the command of Captain Wipple, was the first ship to be chosen by the Continental Congress to perform naval service. It was the first colonial flagship and fired the first broadside during the Revolutionary War at sea. It also captured the first Brittish naval ship. In late 1775 the sloop’s name was changed to the Providence. In 1776, command of the sloop Providence was given to the newly promoted John Paul Jones. (Later Captain Wipple was given command of a new continental frigate also called the Providence.) Of the three captains, John Paul Jones succeeded in taking the most Brittish prizes. In 1777, command was given to John Peck Rathburn who was one of the sloop’s Lieutenants. Under the command of John Rathburn, Providence was the first Colonial ship to land marines on a foreign soil. Also, she was the first to fly the Continental colors over foreign territory. She captured Fort Nassau and held the town until valuable military supplies were removed and several Brittish ships taken as prizes. The Providence met its end as part of the disasterous Penobscot Expedition in 1779. She was forced up the Penobscot River in Maine and burnt to prevent its capture by the Brittish.
  5. A few years ago, I was looking at some of the models posted on the RMG website and came across Swallow 1779. I instantly was attracted to her overall appearance and the fact that she was clinker-planked. The model is listed as SLR0540 and the plans are ZAZ4719. Swallow did not have a long career. According to Rif Winfield, in his book “British Warships in the Age of Sail 1714-1792”, she was purchased on the stocks in 1779 and was originally designed to be a cutter. On the sheer plan one can see where the original mast (located at the dead flat) was erased from the plan. She was registered as a sloop and originally carried fourteen 4pdr guns. The following year, four 18pdr carronades were added. There is no mention of swivel guns, although the plan shows mountings for twenty-two of them. With Lively, Swallow captured the US privateer Black Prince in 1779. She was coppered in 1780 and on August 26, 1781,, Swallow was run ashore and burnt to avoid capture by US privateers off Long Island. The first order of business was to develop a set of plans. Comparing the plans with the model revealed several inconsistencies. Starting at the bow, the model has a much larger stem with cheeks, rails, a false rail and a figurehead. The bowsprit come out of the hull in the midline. The plans show a simple stem and the bowsprit exits the hull to the port side of the stem. The model shows the capstan at midships but the plan has it aft of the main mast. The locations of the various hatch covers also differ between the model and the plan. There is a difference in the deadeye configurations and the swivel guns are not modeled. Finally, although the gold detailing is stunning, this little boat certainly would have never been decorated in other but the simplest schema. To make things even more confusing, in small print on the plan is the following..."a copy of this was given to Mr. Ladd for finishing two cutters the Board bought of him when half built 9 Feb? 1779". And, yes, the question mark was in the sentence as written. So the plan is actually the proposal for finishing and not as-finished. I had to decide whether I was going to model a model or model a ship. Because the model is most likely a presentation piece, I decided to use the plans layout rather than the model's. This still left me with concerns. The biggest one was whether to model the swivels. Since the model does not show them and Winfield does not mention them, I decided to leave them off. There is also no "proper" access to the lower deck on the plan but a companionway is visible on the model. I have added a ladder and companionway. If any of you have additional information or insights to the contrary, please let me know. Things are easy to change at this point. This was going to be a plank on bulkhead model. My reason for this construction style was that the beauty of this ship will be in the clinker planking; therefore, both sides of the hull will be completely planked. I will be installing the lower deck and its associated fittings in the mid-ships area as I plan on making the hatch covers removable. Plans were developed using the tutorial written by Wayne Kempson which is found in the Modeler’s Database. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/plans_and_research/DraftingShipPlansInCADwayne.pdf TurboCAD 18 was my CAD program. Once the plans were developed I made a half hull in 1:96 scale to make sure that I did not have any glaring errors in my rendering.
  6. Today I made the first cut for a model I have been planning an researching for a while. This will be a typical sloop from Roslagen (an area in the Stockholm archipelago and the coast north of it). Once, such sloops where a common sight along the quays of Stockholm, but from around 1920 they started to disappear quickly. They where typical working boats and where usually not built on a shipyard. Instead they where built by the fisherman/framers on the islands of the archipelago. Maybe with the help of a master ship builder that was hired to help with the critical laying of the keel and forming the strakes and fitting the frames. Then the builder/owner used the ship for his own needs, and for transporting goods to the growing city Stockholm. The hulls where (with few exceptions) clinker built using traditional methods following principles that goes back to the viking age and beyond. Looking at the hulls they in many ways resembles enlarged open boats. And it seems to be the way that they had evolved. For the inhabitants of the archipelago there was a need for different sized boats for different tasks. So the same shape was more or less reused in different sizes. This model will be of a "Storbåt" (= great boat) or "Sandkil" as it was also known. The later name is derived from "transporting sand" and became the most common name as they where used for that during the late 19th century when Stockholm was growing rapidly and many houses where built. There where also larger variants, such as the "Vedjakt" (firewood yacht) that specialized in transporting firewood. My model will be based on a plan from the Eskader (eskader.se) hobby shop in Stockholm. The plan is, as far as I can tell, not based on any specific ship, but is a generalization of the type. It does resemble the following drawing quite a bit, so I think that that has been the primary source. The drawing above is from the collections of the Maritime history museum i Stockholm. The text under the title says that it is based on measurements of a real ship. However it does not say which one and when it was done. I do suspect that it was made somewhere between 1930 and 1950, while there where still some ships left to make measurements of. In the 1970s it was believed that none had survived. But then in the 1980s a hull that had been converted to a houseboat was discovered and renovated. I will use the photos from that renovation (which are available at Maritime history museum) to fill in some of the details that are missing in the plans from Eskader. What I miss most from the plans is any indication of the shape and position of the frames. My plan is to build the model as a traditional clinker built boat, shell first, upside down over a plug. The frames will be installed after the shell is complete, so I have some time to continue my research of where they should be placed. The first step will be to cut out the centerpiece of the plug, and then use that as a guide when building the keel. This is an approach that I picked up in Wintergreens log of Kågen. Cheers
  7. Speedwell, 1752, was a ketch rigged sloop of the Cruizer class. Designed by John Ward and Built by Thomas Slade after plans of the yacht Royal Caroline, known for her excellent sailing characteristics. Her keel was laid at Chatham 11.2.1752 and she was launched 21.10.1752 and coppered shortly thereafter. As befitting most ships of her size she patrolled the Channel and Home waters off England but did sail to North America in 1757. She was refitted as the fireship Spitfire in 1779 before decommissioning in 1780. I am building Speedwell from the plans drafted by David Antscherl, who based his reconstruction on plans and documents in the NMM collection. A contemporary model of her is in the museum collection and may be viewed at http://collections.rmg.co.uk/mediaLib/317/media-317093/large.jpg In order to accommodate the eight cannons the hull had to be pierced for gunports and some very interesting toptimber arrangements were drafted to accommodate these. A sample of the interesting shifts and casts are shown in the first photo. For now I am just posting photos of the construction process without text but will add it later if requested. Currently, I am fairing the inside of the hull, a tedious but satisfying part of the process.
  8. Hi, There where many times since I started building my Kingfisher that I thought I should start a build log. And today is the day. I've started the kit last november and spend a lot of time since. Not that I have made much progress, but it is not a race and its tremendous fun building. I ran in to trouble when I was making the hawse timbers, I did not like how the shape came out. It was time to have a little diversion from frame building and find the courage to make new parts from scratch for the hawse timbers. So I left the path of the instruction and started building the stove, some gratings and the gun trucks. That was a lot of fun. The gun trucks are almost finished and wait for the arrival of replacement cannons from The Lumberyard. ==================================== So that's what was left from my old build log in Google cache. Unfortunately the rest was shot into cyberspace and is now a pleasant memory of 2 years and 7 months of logging the progress of my Kingfisher. And probably the longest story I ever wrote in my whole life as I don't like writing at all. So instead of trying to get everything back I'll put a selection of the pictures I did keep on my laptop up in this post and will go on from there. Maybe I'll add text along the way but don't want to be kept from modeling to much. Most of the pictures say more than words anyhow. Update: So Dave (Midnight) saved my log previous to MSW’s move from 1.0 to 2.0. He was ever so kind to share these files with me to rebuild my buildlog. Unfortunately I’m not able to convert the PDF’s back to text to get them back into my buidlog. So instead of typing the lot over again I decided to put the PDF’s on a public share where every body who’s interested can download them from. To make live a little easier I compiled a small index so you now what to expect in each PDF. All the PDF's can be found here. I know it's a bit of a disappointment not to be able to put the information back into this log but the good news is nothing is lost. Any comments of how its working are welcome. Remco
  9. Hi, I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood. I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her. I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care. This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus. Here begins another journey. ben
  10. HMS Vulture Build Log Resurrection Following the Crash of MSW in February 2013 I’ve attempted to re-create as much of my former Build log as I can. The following is a very truncated version of the original. It doesn’t contain any of the comments posted by others, as they were unrecoverable. My apologies for that. I've also left out the MISTAKES I made during the construction in the "Resurrection" section. Some of them can be found in this Topic : How I Fix Boo-Boos and Oopsies The original Build Log was started on June 11 2011. Actual work on the model commenced on Wednesday August 17 2011. The Build Log was terminated on February 14 2013 (the day the Server crashed), and Re-building it started the day MSW came back on-line. _____________________________________________________________________ Following is an Index to "Points of Interest". you can Click on the Links to jump straight to the First Post that starts a particular Section. Links to other Sites in the following pages, e.g. Tool Suppliers, look like this : Sherline . You can jump straight to their Webpage by Clicking on them. Note : I have no affiliation with any of the Suppliers I have posted Links to - just a happy customer. To return to the Index Click on the "HMS Vulture" Link in the Signature in one of my Posts, or use the "Back" Arrow of your Browser. There are no Signatures under my posts in the Reconstruction phase to save page room. The Index will be updated as work progresses. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Index to Points of Interest Page 1 HMS Vulture - some History of the ship + Links to Build Logs of other Swan Class Ships on MSW Research and Materials + Links to Suppliers How the Model will be built Tools Preparations Clamps and Planking Pins Laying the Keel Lower Apron Stem and Fore Deadwood Aft Deadwood Sternpost Rising Wood Cutting Rabbets and Fitting the Mounting Nuts Cutting, Shaping and Fitting Transoms Cutting the Bowsprit Seat Fashion Pieces Bollard Timbers Timberheads and Bowsprit Chock Forward Cant Frames and Hawse Timbers Forward Cant Frames Aft Cant Frames Side Counter Timbers and Timbers on the Side Counter Aft Cant Fairing Knee of the Head Construction Aft Square Frames Frame Bend Shifted Toptimber Fixed Blocks Page 2 Frames all Fitted Toptimber Aligning and External Fairing Treenailing Frames Keelson Pump Recesses Stemson Fillings Harpins Ribbands Limber Strakes Floorhead Thickstuff and Treenails Mast Steps Aft Crutch and Lower Breasthook Limber Boards Lower Well and Shot Locker Chain Pump Inlets Pump Tubes Chain Pump Sprocket Lower Deck Clamps Footwaling Internal Treenailing Aft Platform Aft Platform Carlings and Ledges Aft Platform Bulkheads and Spirit Room Hatch Lower Deck Beams Fore Platform and Bulkheads Lower Deck Hook Block Room and Tar Room Bulkheads Magazine Bulkheads and Mizzen Boxing Lightroom Page 3 Finishing the Magazine Aft Platform Rooms Upper Deck Clamps and Ceiling Lower Deck Beam Carling Mortices Lodging and Hanging Knees Pillars in the Hold Opposed Knees, Beam Arms and Iron Knees Lower Deck Beams, Carlings and Ledges Chain Pump Inlets and Tubes Fitted Sleepers Lower Deck Waterways and Spirketting Riding Bitts - stage 1 Upper Deck Beams Lower Deck Planking Hooked Planks Lower Deck Treenailing Hatch Coamings and Companions Lower Deck Breasthook Forward Room Bulkheads Upper Deck Pillars and Beam Set Forward Rooms Bulkheads and Scuttles Forward Bulkheads Finishing Riding Bitts and Sail Room Wing Transom Knees Bread Room Bulkhead and Pillars Aft Bulkheads Pantry Upper Well Upper Deck Framing Finished Upper Deck Ledges Page 4 Upper Deck Waterways Mast Wedges Main Mast Partners Aft Beam Arms, Carlings and Ledges Mizzen and Foremast Partners Main Topsail Sheet Bitts part 1 Upper Deck Hatch Coamings Capstan Step Upper Deck Planking Top and Butt (Anchor Stock) Deck Planking Upper Deck Treenailng Counter Timbers String in the Waist Quarterdeck Clamp and Transom Ebony Wales and "Dummy" Treenails "Black" Strake Topside Planking Port Stops and Sweep Ports Spirketting,Quckwork and Inside Sweep Ports Trimming Treenailing Spirketting and Quickwork Upper Deck Companions Helm Port Lower Counter Planking Garboard Strake Lower Hull Planking Top and Butt Planking Tricky Plank Hull Planking Continues Hull Planking Finished Starboard Sheer Strake Page 5 Scuppers Main Topsail Sheet Bitts Main Jeer Bitts Forecastle Deck Beams Hawse Holes Finishing Fore Topsail Sheet Bitts Bucklers Upper Deck Breasthook Bowsprit Partner, Hanging and Lodging Knees Manger Riding Bitts Galley Stove 1 Galley Stove 2 END OF BUILD LOG RECONSTRUCTION Chain Pump Cisterns Pump Chain Pump Brakes Rhodings Forward Stanchions, Cistern Hood and Pump Dale Capstans Rudder Main Piece Bearding Pintles Spectacle Plate Bands Gudgeons Rudder Shipped Rudder Coat Forward Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead Bulkhead Doors Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead Longitudinal Aft Cabin Bulkhead Upper Counter Planking Forecastle Bulkhead Forecastle Bulkhead Lights Making Stern Light Frames Stern Lights Completing Rudder Head Trunk Great Cabin Lockers Completing Great Cabin Rudder Head Partners Transom Iron Knees Guns Brackets Barrels Capsquares Drilling the Bolt Holes Axletrees Carriage Assembly Jig Trucks Bed Quoins Hardware Breech Rigging Side Tackles Forecastle and Quarterdeck Carlings Forecastle Knees Catheads Catheads Fitted Cathead Caps Steam Grating Coamings Steam Grating Galley Cowl Cowl Baffle Breast Beams Forecastle Half-Door and Light Quarterdeck Hanging Knees Cast Knee Quarterdeck Lodging Knees Beam Bracket Quarterdeck Hatch Coamings Capstan Step Forecastle and Quarterdeck Waterways Forecastle and Quarterdeck Planking Forecastle and Quarterdeck Treenailing Bulwark Spirketting Gun Rigging Re-do Gangboard Knees Planksheers in the Waist Hances Making Timberheads Timberhead Jig Forecastle Planksheers Forecastle Timberheads Quarterdeck Timberheads Gangways and Gangboards Entry Steps to the Waist Gallows Crosspiece Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails Quarter Badge Quarter Badge Stools and Munions Upper Finishing Lower Finishing Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights Pilasters Quarter Badge Crown Chesstrees Channels Sheer Rails Standards Drift Rails Main Studding Sail Boom Irons Fenders Entry Steps Swivel Gun Mounts Fore Jeer Bitts Belfry Forecastle Railing and Spar Rack Companion Top Ship's Wheel Quarterdeck Ladderway Ladderway Railings Quarterdeck Breastwork Fixed Gangway Newel Posts and Railings Taffarel Taffarel Capping Rail Ensign Staff Block and Clamp Quarter Pieces Roughtree Rail Brake Pumps Fitted Steering Rigging This INDEX has grown too large, so I will start a 2nd one. It can be accessed by clicking the link below. Link to Index Part 2
  11. If you woukd like to see Emma sailing then go on to you tube and Type in " Emma, rc sailing sloop by Gary Webb". Gary has quite a few vids out there now on how to do this and that with boats he has dedigned. Gary is a full scale boat builder and exceptional modeller. He models to very clear cut clean lines with practicalities coming foremost. I ordered up the plans from USA electronically so received them pdf and had them printed out to the correct size. Emma is a very simple hard chine boat and made from door skins as opposed to the really expensive 3mm birch ply from the model shops. So she is rugged but cheap to build. I cut out the four bulkhead patterns from the plan. I leave around 6mm on the perifery ( sorry my false teeth fell out saying that so I ended up spelling it wrongly). Then glued onto the ply and fretted out with my electric fret saw. The crotch of this hull is to build the fin box first and then glue it to the centre two bulkheads. The sides if the fin box were first treated with fibre glass matting for water proofing and strength. The centre two bulkheads were then glued on to it. The crotch was first C A glued to hold it together and then a fillet of 5 minute epoxy applied on every joint. Strong as an ox!. The sides of the hull had three small holes drilled biw and stern to enable the two sides to be stitched together with copper wire from an earth cable. After stitching, the sides were held apart and the crotch unit CA d in its marked position. It was then epoxy filleted at all joints. Finally the two other bulkheads were fitted in thr same fashion. The hull bottoms were then cut out and glued on using the same procedure.
  12. I was shocked when I saw this set of drawings for the first time. He was so gorgeous and had so many beautiful paintings. I watched for a long time and slowly appreciated them, trying to understand the craftsman's state from my current perspective The ribs of British wooden sailboat are very complex. When making HMS enterprise, the ribs are simplified. There are two advantages: 1. The difficulty of making is reduced, the production is convenient, 2. The cost is reduced But for HMS fly, I want to show its original structure as much as I can, which is a big challenge for me, but I like to challenge Here's the scale, which can be adjusted to any scale
  13. Hello All, I have a model that was built by my Great Grandfather for my Grandmother back around 1913. Dad and I decided top rename it Virginia Ruth, my Grandmothers first and middle name. It is supposed to be modeled from a sloop(?) that he was familiar with in the Gulf at Homosassa, Fl. Way back in 1980 or so, I did a cosmetic rebuild for a 4-H project. I want to restore it to how he built it. The hull is hollow and we think it may be made out of Bald Cyprus. All I had to work with was the hull and a photograph. My grandmother said that all the rigging operated as it was supposed to, but none of that is left. He used pulleys and other hardware sourced from England. I guessed on the mast height based on measuring the photo and the actual hull. I repainted it, and stained the top for more of a deck feel. I am open to modifying the ship to make it as close to how it would have been in reality. Most of the hardware on the deck is original and I do have the anchor. The hull measures 32 1/2" long on the deck. it measures 6 1/2" tall at the mast. Here are two photos when it was new. My Great-Grandfather's shadow is visible. Here are two photos of how it looks now. Pretty much a butcher job as I had no idea what I was doing. I am willing to replace and add what hardware needs to be added. I have a set of sails for it that were made from measurements and drawings of the original photo and measurements of the hull. I really do not like the metal bits that are used for deadeyes or maybe in this case turnbuckles. Let me know what you think and don't hold back. Thanks, Russell M.
  14. Well, it has been awhile but the wood always waits. Good to see a lot of familiar names (and faces!). Summary: I am working to build a 1:48 scale model of the 'Friends Good Will' by access to replica build plans and lots of one on one discussions with the ship master. The Michigan Maritime Museum sails a recreation of the 'Friends Good Will' - a Bermuda Sloop that participated in the War of 1812 on the Great Lakes (both sides). My family went there one day and I was very interested in what I saw. Several inaccuracies were very apparent for the sake of safety and the ability to host guests (sails 3 times a day for 1 1/2 hours) but it felt great to see an actual wooden ship in action. At the gift shop I inquired about ship plans, hull lines, etc and was met with a blank stare. I finally was referred to the museum historian and asked about wanting to make a model of the ship. Apparently I was the first to ask such a thing so next thing I know I had full access to the build plans and unfettered access to the ship master. Things to make you go hmmmm: 1. The rigging in its short life has been drastically altered since delivery. There was no accurate documentation of the current rigging setup other than in the ship master's head. 2. The hull (especially underwater) only very crudely resembled a Bermuda Sloop. 3. How to represent the topside deck - as built or more like it would have been. The work before me was large, but I looked forward to the challenge. Join me on a journey from drafting model plans to construction (using the Harold Hahn method). -Mark
  15. Hello everyone, I will describe the building of my little boat, but before, here is a short (euh... ok, everybody has not the same concept of what is "short" 😜 -- mine is like a rubber band ! 😂) story of the KATHLEEN. I will come back to describe the building and put some photos very soon. I have begun it in July, and it was following my fifth failure upon other boats’ projects that were too ambitious for the “rookie” I was in ship building. I put aside my pride 😂 and decided to get involved with an easier project : the shoal-draft centerboard Sloop named KATHLEEN which has been built on North-Beach in 1904-1905 by the immigrant boat builder S.O Pasquinucci for Frank Raymond, a grocer that named her for his daughter, born in 1903. The Sloop has been used both for cruising and racing, until the First World War, in 1914. Rendered obsolete by changes in racing boat rules and designs, the boat has been altered into a yawl with ballasted keel in 1930 and was then used for recreation for seven decades. She had many owners after Raymond who killed himself on February 27, 1913 with a shotgun after some business troubles. He was then 36. The Sloop is an example of the national yacht type that dominated most American yachting centers from the 1850 to about 1885. These Sloops developed from beamy craft with lofty, single-mast rigs that the Dutch used on the shallow waters and transplanted to New-Amsterdam in the XVIIth Century. New-Amsterdam was to become New-York more than a Century after. The first centerboard (generally 15 to 24 feet in length at the waterline) arrived in San Francisco about to 1850. They were intended as workboats for fishing and freighting, but they doubled as some of the bay’s earliest recreational racing boats. An interest in amateur racing spread among people of moderate means, such as clerks and attorneys who owned and maintained their boats with volunteer crews. They then formed yacht clubs whose name incorporated the term “Corinthian” for their amateur status and reliance on unpaid crews. The KATHLEEN broke her mast on her very first time out in April 1905 and had to have a new mast stepped. It was replaced in March 1906 by a shorter one, and the gaff was lengthened by 8 feet to carry a high-peaked mainsail. A new centerboard was fitted and the cabin overhauled at the same time. In February 1908 owner Frank Raymond had the 1906 mast replaced with one six feet taller to accommodate a new set of sails for the coming season. In 1931 the owner Edward E. Shea, also member of the Corinthian Yacht Club as Raymond was, installed the first auxiliary engine. The power rating is unknown. To do so, the companionway was repositioned to starboard. Edward C. Thoits, a well-known civic leader purchased KATHLEEN in 1932 and changed her name to ISLANDER. He owned her until his death in 1951. In 1992, Stephen Canright, a curator at San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park (SAFR) noticed the boat in Paradise Cay Yacht Harbor and recognized it as an example of an historic yacht type that was almost extinct in San Francisco Bay. Canright created a syndicate for the boat’s preservation. Harry Smith, the owner of KATHLEEN who bought her in 1960’s, supported Canright’s view and help him out. However, the syndicate was loosely organized which weakened preservation efforts. In 1996 a substantial leak developed when a garboard seam opened up during a trip. The boat was repaired but extensive cruising in her was given up before 2005. Smith donated her to SAFR in 2011. The Historic American Engineering Record (HAER) is a long-range program that documents and interprets historically significant engineering sites and structures throughout the USA. HAER is part of Heritage Documentation Programs, a division of the National Park Service, United States Department of the Interior. The Sloop KATHLEEN Recording Project was sponsored by the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park (SAFR). Documentation for HAER was directed by Todd Croteau, HAER staff architect, Washington DC, under a cooperative agreement with the Council of American Maritime Museums. That was the story of the KATHLEEN, and how I have found her plans on the Library of Congress’ archives https://www.loc.gov/item/ca3967/ By the way, if someone is living in San Francisco and could go at San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park to take some photos of the restored KATHLEEN, and send those to me, I would appreciated it a lot for the photo they have taken are not so detailed. The building of the KATHLEEN : I began my project with the preparation of a board to build my boat with keel upside down. Then I have cut my Half Breadth Plan out and pasted it on to the board. Upon every line that embodying a frame, I pasted battens that I have used to tie every frame upon it. The photograph I put here will show you what I mean. My board is kind of muddled (i.e : borders are not very straight ; I have written on it, etc.) but the main purpose is reached. However, it was important to trace the middle line of the boat for laying the keel in a further step. Then I have used the Body Plan of which I have made 11 photocopies and I cut every shape of the frames (there is 2 midship frames for the KATHLEEN) which I glued onto a plywood with double faced tape, and I have cut it with my scroll saw then tie it upon the battens with tie wrap : I did not want to glue it because I wanted to be able to take it off if needed. The third step was the building of the keel. It was not an easy thing, especially if it slips from your grasp and the trailing end broke at the point of you are not able to recognize the parts !😭 But once more, I did not let myself being discouraged and I have built another one – which is far better than the first one ! I have used my Half Breadth Plan and cut the shape of the keel out of that plan five times and like the frames, I glued it altogether and cut it with the scroll saw before sanding it to have the right shape. I let a hole for the stern propeller (which I will installed when hull will be finished). Unlikely the former keel, I did not planked it, preferring doing that with the hull later The fourth step was to groove the rabbet to put each fram in the keel (I mean not the one used for the garboard – I should admit that I forgot it 😳) and this too I have had to do it again for it was not aligned the right way. I patched the rabbet up using Plastic Wood that I mixed with white glue for prevent it from disintegrate the very first moment my file would have touched it. My idea was a good one : it was cement-like and new rabbets were right and aligned. I would have thought that it should have been much more difficult, but it was the most easiest thing I did with that boat ! The keel was mounted in a perfect way when I have tried it that I did not dare to touch it and I decided to glued it without take it off in case of I would not have been able to put it right another time. Therefore, I have asked my dentist to give me a syringe with its needle for being able to put glue in the little cracks between frames and keel. There too my guess had worked. (Photograph : the former keel) The next step will be the planking, but however I have a little problem for which I hope you will be able to help me out with your experience: the last frame at the aft end is not the end of the KATHLEEN for she has a round stern which has an angle if you look at the plan. I know that I must do that before planking but I have not a ghost of an idea how to do it. Of course, I thought of some solution, but none had worked (the holes into the last frame can express it) and it’s been 2 weeks now that I racked my brains.
  16. Hi, I have introduced my self on here . As I said before, after many years, finally I have found some time to enjoy ship model building. Since I'm new in this hobby, I have decided to start with The American Bermuda Sloop "Jamaica". The Bermuda sloop is a type of fore-and-aft rigged sailing vessel developed on the islands of Bermuda in the 17th century. In its purest form, it is single-masted, though some ships with such rigging can be built with as many as three masts, which are also known as Schooners. Its original form had gaff rigging , but evolved to use what is now known as Bermuda rig, which had been used on smaller Bermudian boats since the early 17th century, making it the basis of nearly all modern sailing yachts. Although the Bermuda sloop is often described as a development of the narrower-beamed Jamaica sloop, which dates from the 1670s, the high, raked masts and triangular sails of the Bermuda rig are rooted in a tradition of Bermudian boat design dating from the earliest decades of the 17th century. (Taken from Wikipedia). Here in Serbia, it is quite difficult to find brand name ship model kits, so I have contacted shipbuilder's association "Kormilo" from Kraljevo to buy a kit. Guys, Milos and Marko, has founded the association in 1998 and after many years, decided to make kit completes, so builders from Serbia can find enough material and instructions to enjoy this hobby. Since I'm new and would like to improve my building ability, I will appreciate any comment from experienced builders. BUILD LOG #1 Before I started with a build, I have made building slip. I have improvised the toll using material that I have found at home. The building slip gave me the ability to start the building with the right angle on all axes. I have checked whether all bulkheads fit the keel and after that, each one is glued. Since this is my first wooden model build, I have added balsa support between three first and last bulkheads, which will make it planking easier for me. Also using the template from a ship plan I have made a deck and mount it on a hull. So far so good. Next is planking. Hopefully, I'll be lucky enough to do it well. Regards. M.
  17. This model at 1:48 scale and the subject of two volumes, is progressing well. Greg Herbert has almost completed the hull and fittings, while David Antscherl has provided the decorative carved works. Masts and spars are also currently under construction by Greg. Woods used in the model are Castello boxwood and holly. The model will be on display at the North-East Ship Model Conference, New London, at the end of April.
  18. Part 1: Introduction My fishing smack cross section is finished; a new project is already sprouting. But first my workshop is urgently in need of a deep cleaning and there are also a lot of jobs waiting for me in and around the house of which the priority must be upgraded if I want to preserve the peace in the household. So the start of my new project will have to wait. That does not mean that I will go off-line for a while. While making the fishing smack cross section, I was simultaneously working at another POF model. I didn't want to keep up two logs at the same time, but now the pictures are sorted and the model is well advanced, enough to keep the log running while I am busy with other things. I can continue giving weekly updates retroactively at least until I am ready again to start a new project. My previous building projects were working boats (Ostend shrimper and fishing smack) and a warship (HMS Triton cross section). Now I want to build a pleasure boat. I found my boat in an small handout for making plank-on-frame models that I bought some years ago from 'Nederlandse Vereniging voor Modelbouwers' (http://www.modelbouwers.nl/ ). The handout is an assembly of articles which appeared round 1950 in the Dutch magazine 'De Modelbouwer'. They are written by Jules Van Beylen, former conservator of the Belgian National Maritime Museum in Antwerp. In the handout Jules Van Beylen explains how to build plank on frame models on the basis of four small ship models varying from basic to moderate level. The second model of the handout will be the subject of my project. It is a small gaff sailing sloop with a retractable center board. It is an imaginary boat, a design of Jules Van Beylen just for modeling. I doubt that real examples of it ever have been built. One of my previous builds, a coastal fishing sloop was a simple boat, but it took me almost three years to build it (and it is not yet complete now). This is a much more elementary model, so it will be finished somewhat faster. The plans include two sheet: a general construction plan and a rigging plan and are not included in the handout, they have to be bought separately at the 'Nederlandse Vereniging voor Modelbouwers' (http://www.modelbouwers.nl/). They are laying already some years in a drawer waiting to be used. The model will be built at scale 1/10. It is a 7.50 m long hull, so the length of the model will be 75 cm.
  19. I have started the cross section model...mostly drafting. But I figured I would start a log. I am waiting on arrival of a variety of machine screws and nuts to finish drafting the keel parts. They will be set up in the usual fashion you folks have seen but I will post that once its ready. Here is the overall plan I am working from. Hopefully it will look like this once done...planked on one side and open framed on the other. I have started drafting the frames. There will be some bent frames with curved top timbers but this is just a plain straight one. Here are the laser cut pieces.....but you will not build the frame with the parts laid out like this. Because the laser cuts on an angle, it is best to strategically flip certain parts to get the tightest fit possible. You wont get one side with a large gap which is typical. Therefore no sanding of the char is needed ...nor should you attempt to sand the char from the edges of all joints that fit together. They will fit perfectly as is. The only drawback is that you will see the seam which in some instances was not the case as they werent tarred. But thats OK.... So I flipped them as I show in the photo below....flip parts "C" and "D" for the best fit possible. Note the dirty side on the flipped parts. There is no need to build each frame on top of a plan trying to get the frame to come out the correct shape. I have created some tabbed guides which make it very easy. I built five of these frames and they all came out the same...Each one took just a few minutes. I used titebond on the seams. Just take care not to glue the guides to the frame. See below. All glued up. Then the guide tabs are cut free leaving the frame strong and ready for sanding. I sanded every edge to remove the char except for the notch in the bottom chock which stays unsanded. It needs to be a perfect press fit into notches I created in the rising wood...which I will show later. But the finished frame all sanded up up looks like the one below. The top cross bar is added for strength and also to help register all of the frames once they are glued onto the keel. That is what those two notches on the cross bar are for. After I draft more frames it will make more sense. Chuck
  20. The HMS Beagle served as Charles Darwin's floating laboratory on his historic voyage to the Galapagos Islands. Drawings: I traced the drawings I needed to generate the modeling plans from the book Anatomy of the ship HMS Beagle using AutoCAD. The Keel Assemble The Keel Assembly is 24 ½” long x ¼” thick European Beachwood. Since this is going to be a Navy Board type model I simplified the keel and framing. This set of photos shows the keel assembly and the first two frames. All the frames are double and consist of ten individual sections each.
  21. I hope I am in the right department here. If I am moved by administration please advise me and my apologies in advance. I have dabbled with SIB for some time. I make one every ten years on average. This is supposed to be HMS Beagle. I do not work from drawings. ( should do ) All is eyesighted and let's say...artists impression? I have seen some of the most exquisite models built by guys on this forum which leave me very humbled. They are just brilliant with all their tiny detail. I love ships but am a bit of a bluffer. I put in what I think looks good and ignore scale as it is too much for me. It is supposed to carry seven boats I read. This, on this scale will be too overpowered. I have tried my best. I am a non nautical but love what I see in ships . I have the boat hanging over the stern on Daviits which should be a give away for HMS Beagle. Plus all the other boats on board for the expedition. When I see what some modellers have achieved I should be ashamed as I have not applied myself fully to it. Anyway, here are my results so far. The main thing here is.....FUN! and I get plenty of it. Your ships though my brothers are an inspiration to me. We cannot hope to build anything without this. I have an attraction to Dimple bottles of the smaller variety. They have their own stand. Trouble is I get quite Ill for five days having downed a bottle in one evening! Maybe I WAS a sailor in my past life? Ha ha. I do know though that us modellers have a vivid imagination of the past and that's why we do what we do. Here's the pics. " Weigh Anchor and set sail me boys" Or have I got it the wrong way around? Said I was bluffer!!! In hindsight...I Christen this ship..." HMS Bluffer ". Pete
  22. I started this build on www.bottledshipbuilder.com. It fits with the mission of that site but the idea of this build is one I've had for a long time and it began with MSW members in mind so I thought I'd bring it over. To give a little history and the idea of what this build is, it started with a pet peave of mine. Those that have seen me on the forum have probably seen that I have been critical of ship in bottle kit's out there. I have seen a lot of MSW members and members of my local club take interest in ships in bottles then try a kit and end up never wanting to build ships in bottles again. As many of you also know ships in bottles is something I'm passionate about. Probably overly so. I'm not sure I can explain that passion. For me it's something magical. I get a ship into a bottle and I stand back and I'm still amazed that I was able to do it. I know the process but it still amazes me. The other part of that passion is those that helped me get to where I'm at. I feel like I was very lucky I got into ship in bottle building when I did. I found these small groups with cheerful members willing to share their ideas and I learned very quickly. I owe a lot to the members of the Ship in Bottle Association of America. Unfortunately SIBAA closed a couple years ago and www.bottledshipbuilder.com and the Facebook ship in bottle builder group what's left of the organization. Much like ship modeling in general ship in bottle building is a dying art. In an effort to keep it alive and pass on the knowledge that was given to me I like to share ship in bottle building methods and knowledge. So it bugs me a bit when a company puts out a model that is overly difficult and turns people off to building ships in bottles. In my personal opinion there is currently no kit on the market that gives what members of MSW would look for in a ship in bottle kit. The closest one is Amati's but I think they made their ship to tight of a fit which has given a lot of beginning ship in bottle builders trouble. Every other kit is to kiddish to be taken seriously by members of MSW. I had thought for a long time about making my own kit. I've explored that process and found a lot of complications to it. Besides that for a patience bottle builder I'm not very patient. I have a hard time measuring and writing all the details so I decided on a different approach. In an effort to give this information as freely as it was given to me I am posting a how to build log. It will detail all the steps for a simple ship in bottle build. The idea being if I were to make a ship in bottle kit for beginners this is what it would look like. Since I'm not detailing every measurement this also acts as a guide to scratch building. If you can build this ship you can use the same techniques to build others. Also this gives builders the ability to size it up or down as needed. I want this to be a great starting place for those want to try ship in bottle building and I'm hopeful I can present it in such a way that will share the magic of it and have builders wanting to try more.
  23. OK, I guess no one really knows just how this little raider appeared during the American revolution, but I assume some research was done before the building of a reproduction An architect by the name of Charles W. Wittholz designed the reproduction for the Seaport 76 foundation Newport RI.. This little vessel was the first command of John Paul Jones under the American flag and should have more recognition by kit designers and or modelers. I was fortunate to get a beat up plans from a former Skipper of the reproduction and will attempt to dope out just what the weathered plans are telling me. Any suggestions, hints comments etc are welcome. Here is one plan: The plans, ( shown in the image) are photo copied to the scale 1/4+ 1' and consist of the body and line plans ( some lines missing due to time, water and who knows what.) A deck fittings plan , Mast and spars plan but no rigging and a much faded bow and jib sprit plan. The vessel represented on these plans is the FG reproduction of the actual tall ship now awaiting her fate, and, as far as I know still damaged and not repaired at a yard in RI.. My idea is to construct the model using the lift method for the hull to the deck level and build up the poop deck with side bulwarks and deck. By coincidence each lift on the plan measures exactly ½" very convenient for me as I managed to get some poplar dressed to this thickness. I plan to cut out a portion of the main deck lift to allow some visual glimpse into the lower deck level. This hollow portion will also allow a the insertion for a temporary tendon affording me to insert the tendon into a vise while carving the inverted hull. When this is done I can beam over the hollow portion and cover it with decking..... Dowels will hold the various lifts in register during the glueing process. One may even be the mast but the rake could present problems. Anyway the hole for the mast can be drilled into each lift even before the assembly is glued. Well that's the plan thus far. Mind visualizing, this works so lets see what problems it might present in reality. Thanks for any interest. S.O.S.
  24. FINALLY...my build logs begins. I welcome those that followed my PHILADELPHIA builds as well as any new comers. Welcome to my build log for the Continental Sloop PROVIDENCE. This ship is famous for being the first naval command of John Paul Jones and the distinction for ALMOST being the first ship in the Continental Navy. GENESIS OF THE PROJECT The idea for this model began with, as most things of value, discussions about pirate ships. Our ship model club annually mans an information booth at the local County Fair. One of the questions that always arises is “Is that a Pirate Ship?” That leads to a discussion about what exactly IS a pirate ship? Does a Pirate go to “Pirate Ship Depot” and pick one out? “Nay” sez we. A buccaneer bateau is normally one they have captured and has attributes that would make it valuable to them; normally speed and agility. Ships that make good pirate ships also make good merchant ships, privateers and naval vessels. I used the example of the classic Bermuda/Jamaica/Virginia sloop. Ships with exactly the same lines serving different purposes; Blackbeard’s ADVENTURE, Armed Virginia Sloop merchant and John Paul Jones’ PROVIDENCE. Sometime afterwards, I was doing some research and found this was not EXACTLY true. While many sloops have almost exactly the same lines and the Model Expo AVS, PROVIDENCE was not one of them. Close, but not exact. Using paintings and plans from the replica PROVIDENCE, I saw that for one, the PROV was slightly beamier than the typical AVS. Also, whereas the aft section of AVS is covered, the PROVIDENCE has an actual poopdeck. My interest in the Continental Navy lead me to get more info and eventually build this ship.
  25. Hi world! I want to show you my current ship model project: the sloop Mediator. I found the plans of this ship in Howard I. Chapelle book named 'The search for speed under sail, 1700-1855'. I thought it would be an interesting ship for a first scratch work. In the National Museum of American History, Washington, DC, there is a ship model of the Mediator: http://etc.usf.edu/clippix/picture/the-mediator.html And it is my ship model today: Please, let me to show slooooowly the building process step by step. P.S: Apologizes to everyone for my awful English. P.P.S: I put my drawings in this first post. I'll update if any change happens. P.P.S: Add a direct link to all photographs I have about the Mediator buid: https://picasaweb.google.com/113346618105593843079/6058494423241948545?authuser=0&feat=directlink Mediator plans set.pdf
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