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Found 44 results

  1. Hi everyone This is my second venture into model boat building. The first model was an unbuilt yacht design by a Sydney amateur yacht designer; this one is a much earlier design by the same man - E.C. "Cliff" Gale. Karoo was a 20' open sailing boat with a bowsprit & gaff sloop rig. Karoo was raced & was also a family boat. Incredibly they (Cliff & Mrs Gale, plus 3 strapping young sons) used to pack her full of gear for holidays & spend a week or two aboard on Pittwater, Broken Bay & the associated waterways Cowan Creek, Coal & Candle Creek etc. I'm doing a half model of the boat, as a gift for our sailing club model wall. The Karoo was a quick boat, I know because a copy was built about 20 years ago & despite her being given a fairly conservative sailing rig she is well able to keep up or beat with larger yachts. As with the last model the drawn information is not complete, but there are some photos of the original boat. And also I have one of the sons - Bill - who at 95 or so still has an astonishing memory when it comes to yachts. The drawing would have been done from a design half model, Cliff shaped the design in a bread & butter half model, layers dowelled together, & separated them to get the drawn lines. I plan to show some details beyond just the hull: gunwale & toe rail, lower section of the mast, bowsprit, rudder & tiller, centreboard. Coincidentally, it was 90 years plus 10 days ago this drawing was done: The lines show a shallow dishy hull with clean underwater lines; the shape is beamy & shallow. A 40% beam:length ratio is wide, but beamy is (or was) quite common in Sydney: Here, cantering under spinnaker at Pittwater, in the early 30s: This is the rebuilt version, she was slightly lengthened & made finer in the bow. Interestingly the owner's one comment is that she tends to bury the bow downwind under spinnaker. I'm guessing the original didn't do that, or as much, with more buoyancy in the bow. On the left, A12, with a removable cuddy cabin for cruising.
  2. Hi to all. Looks like i'm still here))) For a very long time I thought, wondered and reflected on the scale. And finally I made step for next level (scratch build) and i decided that 1/250 (Naviga C4 class) is what I wanted for a long time, especially due to i'm a seamen and 7-8 months in a year i spend at sea, with this scale I can make a model both at home and at sea. I present to you the beginning of the construction of the La Salamandre 1/250
  3. I found an old copy of Howard Chapelle's The National Watercraft Collection on the $2.00 rack at the local used bookstore. In it I saw the following photo of a catboat in Gloucester harbor. Needless to say, the sail caught my attention. This photo is most likely of Aqua Pura, a waterboat that supplied the Gloucester fishing fleet with fresh water. These boats were commonly catboat-rigged and could carry about 150 barrels of water in a wooden tank located under the deck amidships. The water was discharged into fishing schooners' water barrels via a hand-operated pump and a long hose, both of which are visible in the photo. In 1850, one waterboat operator in Gloucester sold $7,700 worth of water to the fleet at ten cents a barrel. Aqua Pura measured 36' in length and 11.4' in beam. She was crewed by a single owner/operator who painted advertisements for local merchants on his sail. Some of the waterboats carried a limited number of 50 - 100 lb cakes of ice covered in sawdust as well. Chapelle gives the hull lines and deck arrangement here: I just finished building Corel's kit of the Shenandoah, and this will be my first scratch build. The reason I want to build this craft is a bit nostalgic. My dad was a watchmaker who had a family-run jewelers in Southern California. I grew up in the shop. My dad and grandpa and brother all repaired watches, while I repaired clocks and did engraving and simple jewelry repairs. If you look at the sail in the photograph, you'll see an advertisement for a jewelers. I lost my dad last January and miss him pretty badly. I'd like to build this boat and put him and his shop up there on the sail. I may make some other changes to the text as well. That's why I'm calling this build a fictitious waterboat. I'd also just plain like to try my hand at scratch building. I've been watching other people's work and it looks like fun. I guess we'll see. I have very little idea of how to go about this, other than that I'll be attempting a plank-on-bulkhead version of the hull. I'm sure I'll be asking lots of questions. Thanks for reading! Steve
  4. My most recently completed model, HM Bark Endeavour, as she appeared in Tahiti, 1769, to observe the Transit of Venus. Total build time was just under a month. The ship is built to the scale of 75’ to 1” or 1/900. The hull was made from boxwood and planked with Nootka Cyprus. The balance of the detail is Nootka and boxwood. The masts are brass, and the rigging is a mix of nitinol and copper wire. The sea base is carved Nootka Cyprus. If you’d like to see more of my ships, they’re all at www.josephlavender.com
  5. This boat was a tartana of fluvial origin that was built in the Rhône region, near Condrieu, Beaucaire, Arlez and Martigues. Thanks to its low draft and its robustness, they became a fundamental element in the development of the region, creating a large fleet that had at the time of its heyday, in 1845, 125 boats, which were used both for transportation construction materials (wood, stone, aggregates) as well as the unloading of ships that could not pass at full load through the bars of the Rhone delta. At times, they also made maritime navigation through the Mediterranean, to Marseilles, Toulon and other towns in Languedoc, Roussillon and Provence. The appearance of the railway as a means of transport led to the disappearance of the "allèges" in the late 19th century.
  6. I thought I'd take on another relatively quick project and picked up a Mini Mamoli kit for the HMS Victory off eBay. I had been excited to hear that @Daniel Dusek was bringing the Mini-Mamoli kits back, but didn't have the patience for the supply pipeline to get rolling again. For the moment, they seem to be fairly available on the second-hand market and hopefully, Daniel gets the new kits rolling along soon. The Mini-Mamoli kits are billed as being for complete beginners, but while they clearly aren't full-scale models, I'm skeptical that many people would finish in the 15-20 hours that I've seen claimed. I'd spend that long on just the painting! But, in theory, I should be able to advance to the rigging reasonably quickly - and then we'll see how long that takes! Another thing for which to be prepared - The instructions are pretty poor. They are translated from Italian which doesn't help, but I'm pretty sure that even in Italian they leave out a lot of details/steps. So, be prepared to be a little innovative. Hopefully Daniel will be able to improve on the instructions with the new kits. Also - I feel like doing the project "right" requires more materials. The kit comes with a single diameter manila cordage, but the kit will look a lot better with some varied thicknesses of black cordage. I've ordered some from ModelExpo which hopefully should be here soon.
  7. Hi folks Well, I’ve been a bit impatient lately and started on my next model, Sapphire, before my previous model, Genesis is completely finished. Anyhow, Sapphire is based on an actual mega-yacht called, Okto (https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-43054/okto-yacht-charter-printable.pdf). As is customary with all of my miniature models, the interior accomodation will be fully detailed and viewable through removable decks and superstructure. I hope you can join me on Sapphire’s journey. Cheers. Patrick
  8. It was interesting to find out that “The Peterboro Canoe” was named due to the association with Peterborough, Ontario. There was a time almost any wooden canoe In the traditional Canadian style, that is, one basically having the appearance of the woodland bark canoe of the North American Indian, could be referred to as “a Peterboro” certainly a rich history with these canoes. So here is a kit I purchased on eBay for less than $50, well worth the hours of entertainment.
  9. My current project is a lugger of the east coast of Scotland, a type of ship called Zulu, which was the most powerful and efficient sailboat for the herring sail fishery among those of its size in the British Isles. Its origin dates back to 1879, the year in which a Lossiemouth fisherman, William "Dad" Campbell, devised a radical design for his new boat for the capture of herring. He had the vertical bow of the fifie and the sloping stern of the skafie, and called this ship "Nonesuch." It was relatively small, with 16 m. of length and a keel length of 12 meters. This design, which provided a longer deck and a shorter keel, markedly improved the maneuverability of the boat and provided it with a good speed, characteristics that made it highly appreciated by herring fishing fleets, as they managed to reach promptly to the fishing grounds and return quickly with the catch. Due to these qualities, that type of vessel quickly became very popular throughout the Scottish east coast. The new type of vessel was baptized as a Zulu because of the war that was developing in South Africa at that time, in which Scottish soldiers fought, a war that was rejected by the population who thought they were fighting in an English conflict that, deep down, they were not concerned, which made their sympathies lean towards the Zulus. The Zulu ships were carvel built, instead of clinker built, which was the most common in those waters. They were provided with two masts carrying lug sails and a bow jib. The sails were heavy and difficult to maneuver, and the masts to carry them had to be very long and strong. In the Zulu of greater size, the masts came to be 18 m high in boats of 24 m in length. As the twentieth century approached, steam winches were introduced aboard, which made maneuvering sails and nets much easier for crews. However, and despite the success of its design, the life of the Zulu was quite short, since it was replaced by steam fisherboats after a brief existence of just over three decades.
  10. Another weekend project and this one is Skiff by Midwest.
  11. The martigana (or marticana, martingana, etc.) was, in the times of the sail, a common vessel and quite widespread in the waters of the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic, although today its name has been almost completely forgotten. This denomination appears only from the second half of the 1700s and only a few decades ago some of them were still seen sailing through Tuscany, and even today a couple of them have been photographed afloat in Sicilian waters. This vessel was used for the transport of goods, even over long distances. The martigana of s.XIX, which is the one that reproduces the model, was a boat with a bow of very pronounced curvature that ended in a spur of the type used in the galleys, with the wedge stern and the rather rounded master frame. In fact, the martigana was, as far as the hull is concerned, quite similar to the tartana, differing from it basically in the sailplan, which was in those of square sails in the main mast and not with the lateen rig that carried the latter . It seems that the origin of this vessel is in Provence, in the village of Martigues, located west of Marseille, on the southern shore of the great Barre lagoon, along the narrow channel that joins the lagoon with the sea, which It was famous as one of the places in the Mediterranean where the best tartanas were built, so that the term martigana was originally an adjective: "martigana tartana" or of Martigues.
  12. I thought I’d post a WIP thread of my 1/1500 scratch build project of HMS Ramillies. Typically I build the base and the ship separately but this time do the some issues I had with securing USS South Carolina to her base, I’ve completed Ramillies up to the main deck and joined the sea base and the ship together. This should be okay as the superstructure will mostly be built as a sub-assembly. The model is a little less than 5” long and made from boxwood. The camouflage scheme was used by Ramillies in the winter of 1917 into the spring of 1918. The sea base is carved wood as well and painted.
  13. Roughly 10 years ago, I asked my wife if I could get a kayak to do some paddling on some of the local ponds. In an effort to dissuade me from picking up yet *another* hobby, she said "If you can build a kayak, you can have a kayak." Being the stubborn type, I spent the summer building a kayak using my great-grandfather's hand saw, a dollar-store plane, and an electric drill. Somewhere I had come across instructions for building a traditional style "qajaq," (the traditional Inuit spelling). Once built, my daughter decided that she wanted one, so she and I spent the next summer building hers together. Here's a photo of them together, hers on the left, mine on the right. Both boats are composed of wooden frames, pegged and lashed together with artificial sinew, covered with ballistic nylon, then dyed and coated to make waterproof. Having followed the progress of both builds, a friend of mine asked if I could build a model of one for him. I promised that I would, then promptly life got in the way, so, here we are 10 years later, and I'm finally starting on my friend's model. The goal is to build the model using the basic full-scale building methods, using glue instead of pegs and sinew for the connections. Qajaqs are interesting in that each one is built to the user, using anthropomorphic measurements. For instance, the length isn't X number of feet, it's "three armspans long," while the beam is "hip width, plus two fists." As such, each craft is personalized and specific to the paddler. You can see in the photo above that my daughter's boat is small and more slender than mine, as my daughter is smaller and more slender than I am. 🙂 So, like the full size, the first step in building a qajaq is to create a story pole, which defines the placement of the various frame components. For the model, I took my own measurements, divided them by 12, and marked them out on an old paint stick that I had lying around. This resulted in a model that will be an estimated 18" long. My full-size qajaq is actually just under 18 feet long, so I guess my body hasn't changed much in the last 10 years. Also in the photo, I'm using Christopher Cunningham's book "Building the Greenland Kayak" as my guide. It's an excellent resource for anyone interested in building one. The next step was to create the gunwales. I'm using craft sticks and scrap bits for the frame, so I had to scarf together pieces long enough for the main pieces. From my reading, this was actually pretty common practice in full-scale as well, as many were built using collected driftwood. With the gunwales cut to length, the next step was to bevel each end. This was done by clamping the gunwales together so that each one would match the other. To create the shape of the craft, forms are used. The forms are beveled at roughly 73 degrees. The center form is a "hip and two fists" wide to create the beam. Qajaqs built for racing or rolling competitions may only be a hip wide, but I'm going for a hunting craft, so more stability is desired. With the center form in place, the two end forms are slipped over the gunwales and adjusted until the ends of the boards touch at the bow and stern. Finally forms are added fore and aft of center to establish the final shape. The placement of these is determined by the builder, who moves the forms towards the ends for a fuller shape, or closer to the center for a narrower shape. With the shape determined, the next step was to lay out and cut the deck beams. The ends of the beams are beveled to match the flair of the gunwales. In the full size, these would be mortise and tenon joints, lashed into place with sinew. In the case of the model, I went with CA glue. It's difficult to see in the photo, but the two forward beams closest to the center are arched, to allow clearance for the paddler's legs. Once the deck frame was complete it was time so start on the ribs of the hull. Here's where I hit my first snag. On my full size boat, pine was used for the frame, and steam-bent oak for the ribs. I wanted to keep the model as traditional as I could, but the craft sticks that I have aren't suitable for bending. Each rib is about 1/16" wide, so the wood just crushed instead of bending. After plodding around the house thinking on it a bit, I spied a cereal box in the trash. Pulling it out, the thickness looked good (roughly 3/4" in full scale, so *really* small in 1:12). I cut thin strip off, rolled it around a pencil, and grinned as it kept its shape. So, cardstock ribs it was! I sanded off the printing from the outside of the box, cut a bunch of strips, and started making ribs. To my surprise, they don't look much different than the oak ribs on my full-size boat. Each rib is the width of the deck, plus "the width across the fingers of both hands held together." Wider boats measure across the base of the fingers, narrower ones measure across the tips. I split the difference and went with my middle joints. Like the deck beams, the ribs would usually be mortised, then pegged into place. For the model they are glued to the gunwales on each side. One the ribs were in place, I coated them with a layer of watered-down PVA glue to help stiffen them up a bit. So, that's where things stood as of last night before I went to bed. If the rib stiffening worked out, the next step will be the stem and stearn boards, keelson, chines, and masik (curved deck board in front of the paddler). -Elroy
  14. This is a fun and quicky project. My grandson is building it with a little help from Grandad. We saw some you tubes on these wonderful little craft. Next best thing to steam power but a darned sight cheaper. It is powered by its own pop pop motor which we shall be making next. It makes a realistic pop pop!!! Sound. This is a fun toy but to be honest ,because it has a live burning flame inside it, it can hardly be given to a very young child. I think 13 is okay. Not so sure about the 69 year old though!!! Ha ha. If you get the itch and secretly build one, all I ask is for you to be honest and show us your build. The entire build should only take a few days. We are doing a super version of it in very expensive 1.5mm birch ply. The plan is down loadable from the web. My grandson used " publisher " to make the beam a bit wider than the original. This is as far as we are at the mo. Pete and Brandon.
  15. Here are some photos of my progress on my scratch-built, 1/1500 scale HMS Dreadnought, 125’ to 1” at just over 4” long overall. The hull was made from boxwood, the deck planked with bass. The balance of the detail is mostly brass, with some styrene, aluminum, and tungsten wire. The funnel was made from aluminum sheet, and is hollow all the way through. Probably overkill, as I included not only the external piping but internal as well. The handrails are brass, awning stanchions are tungsten wire. I’m using the plans drawn by John Roberts. I’ll post more as I continue the superstructure. Total parts count at the time of this post is 606.
  16. Hello all I want to share this construction log, about the Spanish Longboat, that could be converted to Falúa (Luxury Longboat for Officers). The plans have been developed by Isidro Rivera, well known spanish naval researcher, who has many papers, books and plans already published. I have the fortune to be in contact permanently with him, Jose Collado who is his partner in construction, and a bunch of really good guys, who are always, willing to help when I need it. I started the 17th of February and.......
  17. hi.....starting to build tiny now...much less expense, mess, stink, and stress .....not a build log, just a cross section of the different galleys i've started....will occasionally take a few shots as i go along.....may make a display case with all of them included...will probably throw in a viking too........not going to be to fussy...mainly a display of the different concepts.....gonna have to make a LOT of oars ....cheers.......
  18. HMS Terror and HMS Erebus, Ross Expedition, 1839-1843. This is my latest installment of my program of scratch building all of the famous Antarctic exploration ships in small scale. The first I built was S/Y Endurance and the second being James Caird. HMS Terror and HMS Erebus were made famous on the Franklin Expedition, but a few years before that mess they were charting Antarctica with James Ross. The ships are made with basswood hulls, basswood gunwales, planked wood decks (yes, planked), with aluminum, brass, and stainless steel masts, and various other scratch built parts. I wanted to keep each ship to about 1 inch, so I chose 1/950 scale.
  19. I realized I had discussed this build but never posted it. Here is my 1/1000 (USS) Wasp Scratch build. The hull is basswood, the details are mostly brass, rigging is tungsten wire, the sails are linen paper.
  20. Here is my scratch built RMS Servia as she appeared in her early years of service. The hull is basswood, the deck is laser etched basswood, the remaining details are brass. The sails are made of linen paper and the rigging tungsten wire.
  21. The schooner Wyoming in 1/1000. The hull is basswood, decks are laser etched basswood, details are a mix of basswood, Tanganyika, and brass. The masts are brass and the rigging is tungsten wire. The sails were made using linen paper.
  22. Greetings, I thought I’d share my recently finished HMS Pandora in 1/1000 scale. The hull is basswood, the deck is individually planked (bloody difficult), the masts are styrene and brass. Sails are linen paper and the rigging is tungsten and molybdenum wire.
  23. I do not know if it's necessary to explain anything at the beginning of my new project, which I present now although it is already advanced. I say that because the technique I used has been shown repeatedly on the forum and I do not want to repeat it. I support for its construction in the monograph of ANCRE "Felucca N.S, del Rosario" of Franco Fissore. For this reason, I will let the photos be the ones that show the successive stages of the process, and I am available for anyone wishing to ask questions about it. Regards, Javier
  24. Hi folks Hot on the heels of finishing my last model, Shadow, I’ve excitedly started on what I think is my biggest challenge yet - Genesis, a 49m Luxury Mega Yacht, based on an actual ship named Khalilah, built by an American builder, Palmer and Johnson. The details of the ship, Khalilah, can be found here: https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-46797/khalilah-photos.htm#yacht-tabs As I don’t have any detailed plans, a lot of what I’m attempting is by sheer guess work, with a lot of help from a fellow MSW member (whose help and guidance I shall always appreciate). Like all of my other models, Genesis will have a fully detailed interior, from her engine room through to her sky deck. I hope you can follow me on my journey from here on. The following photos show where I’m up to so far with the hull. Lots and lots of work to go, folks!!! Thanks. Patrick
  25. I have started the construction of a new model to add to my collection, which will be number 67. It is a tartana from Liguria in a scale of 1: 200. I use as a main source of documentation the monograph of the tartana Gemma, by Franco Fissore, published in Ancre, although I will also use other sources, such as the book "Vele italiane de la costa occidentale" by Sergio Bellabarba and Eduardo Guerrieri, and old photographs of complementary form. For the construction of the hull I use Finnish plywood of 0.6 mm. to make the frames.

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