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Found 6 results

  1. I couldnt resist already setting up a Placeholder for the Build Log. Sadly my Sphinx is still stuck waiting for release back to UPS from The Gods of Customs and Taxation (Can take up to 10 days from that point i heard) I paid the fees already, it would be cheaper to drive the 800km up to Chris and pick it up and back, not Chris's fault of course, just FYI for those from Germany, the Fees add up to about 1/4 of the Kit's Price My Log will propably not be as Tidy and she wont turn out as pretty as the others but even failures need to be documented. Tools prepared: - Exacto Knife and a few Stanleys as Backup - Various Shapes Modeller Files - Sandpaper different grit and Sanding Block - Sanding Sticks - Assortment of Tweezers - Different Army Painter and Citadel Brushes - Automatic Pencil and 30cm Steel ruler - Planking Vice - Guillotine for cutting planks - Travel Iron for Edge-Bending - Home-Made Plank bender tool made from Pliers - Dremel with sanding discs and barrels - CLAMPS and Vices - Airbrush - Various Vallejo Paints - Model Color and Model Air - PVA Glue
  2. HMS Sphinx 1775 Sixth Rate 20 guns ship - 1:64 Scale model from Vanguard. This will be my latest project, a project the size and type of which, only a short while ago, I thought I would not be doing again. I hadn’t counted on Chris Watton’s ability to beguile me in this late stage of my model building career to return to another 18th century square rigged naval ship. However, as Jim’s prototype build developed, I thought what a fine Navy board style model this would make given the detail included in the kit, and importantly proper deck beams, and full run decks unimpeded by hull carcase bulkhead structures. The inclusion of an engraved proper lower deck with hatches and ladderways down to an orlop deck, is a nice touch and opens further opportunities. I will be building this kit as a Navy board style model without masts or rigging, and that way space considerations will not be a big issue. Joseph Marshall paintings of Sphynx / Sphinx held by the Science Museum. (They are available for purchase as prints.) These two perspective paintings by Joseph Marshall commissioned by George 111 will be my inspiration, as was his painting of the cutter Alert for that build. Altho’ delivery is still a week or so away, I am gathering information, and I have some jottings about possible additions/modifications, but I won’t pre-empt the arrival of the kit. I have also ordered the Lines and Profile plan from the N.M.M. (Ref j4272) Apart from providing additional information, these make very attractive art works to my eye at least, and the framed print will join those of Pegasus and Cheerful on my walls. I have also realised that my copy of The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora (AotS series – by John McKay and Ron Coleman) has much useful information relevant to Sphinx. So, as I continue finger tapping on my desk, in eager anticipation of that large box arriving, I will entertain myself poring over the pdf of the voluminous build manual. B.E. 11/08/2021
  3. AIM OF MY BUILD LOG My aim with this build log, as with all my previous build logs, is to show how I have implemented the build instructions & plan sheets and to also share any tips, problems, etc. which may help others with their build. It will probably repeat / show several of the processes / instructions detailed in the official build manual and plan sheets. I really appreciate comments and likes on my build. BUILD LOG INDEX I have also set up a build log index to help you (and me!) locate the different sections of my build. Simply click on the links of the completed tasks to be taken to that post of the my build log. TASK TITLE (Click link on done tasks) STATUS 1 MDF Build Cradle Assembly Done 2 Stern Bulkhead Assembly Done 3 Bow Bulkhead Assembly Done 4 Bulkheads & Lower Deck Assembly Done 5 Longitudinal Gun Port Assembly Done 6 Lower Deck Coaming Assembly Done 7 Gun Deck Support Beams Done 8 Stern Counter Frame Assembly Done 9 Gun Deck, Gun Ports & Filler Blocks Done 10 Fitting Inner Bulwarks Done 11 Painting Inner Bulwarks Done 12 Cabin Seat Assembly Done 13 Adding Patterns to Bow Done 14 Building the Bulwark Jig(s) Done 15 Fairing the Hull Done 16 Adding the Upper Side Panels Done 17 First Planking - Part 1 Done 18 First Planking - Part 2 Done 19 First Planking - Part 3 Done 20 First Planking - Part 4 Done 21 Sanding 1st Planking Done 22 Fitting Outer Planking Patterns Done 23 2nd Planking - Stage 1 Done 24 Fitting wales WIP 25 Fitting wales WIP 26 Fitting wales WIP 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 36 39 40 OTHER HMS SPHINX BUILD LOGS James Hatch's Prototype Build Log - A must read build log Blue Ensign's Build Log Jasseji's Build Log Mark Taylor's Build Log myxyzptlyk Build Log
  4. Hello fellow modelers This build log will not be nearly as detailed as the other excellent logs by others. But I do want to share some of my experiences with this excellent kit. Got the kit on Friday and went to work on it the next day. Construction is incredibly logical and straightforward. I think anyone who has built just one kit can tackle this one. The instructions are just so incredibly detailed. I can't thank James and Chris enough for producing this incredible kit. I am ready to start placing the gun deck halves. To this point I have only encountered very minor issues that were easily solved. Some points: 1. Some of the gun deck support beams needed trimming to their upright leg length in order to fit snuggly. 2. With the longitudinal deck beams be careful if you clean them up. They can be somewhat fragile. I was cleaning the top of my first one and it broke. No problem as the break was clean and did not affect the construction. Also these beams have a tendency to spring back up amidships. I would advise using a very fast setting glue or place some weights on the ship in order to prevent this while your glue sets. 3. The stern counter frames are a very tight fit (which is good). After slotting all the bulkheads and other pieces I got used to a perfect fit. I could have sanded the slots a bit but I chose to use a few light taps of a hobby hammer. Very snug fit but those parts aren't going anywhere now. I'm really looking forward to the placement of the Upper Hull Side Patterns. The instructions talk about soaking and bending over a can and letting it dry for a day. I am hoping my method will work well and allow construction to proceed without the soaking/drying process. I recently picked up nice wood bender that was recommended by someone on this forum. It's a bit pricey ($150US) but so far in my modeling experience it is a wonderful, must have tool. I have done a few passes through the tool with the Upper Hull Side Pattern and it is curving very nicely. Once I get to that step I'll provide some more detail and pictures.
  5. This will be my log for the Sphinx from Vanguard Models. It's due to come in the morning. I've been gathering paints (and testing them) and some odds and ends like sand papers. Today , I'm clearing the workshop, etc. Once it's here, I'll start posting to my log. This should be a fun project and also, a bit of re-learning.
  6. Hi All, I have been working on this ship for a few months now. This is my first scratch build (i.e. not starting from a kit). The plans were purchased form Alexander in Germany (he has a build log on this site for the same ship). There are a number of personal requirments relating to this build: 1) I want to understand and depict how a ship was build at the time; 2) Where possible/feasible I want to show what life looked like at sea at the time; 3) It has to be at a scale where details can be seen, yet still be small enough to stay in the house (i.e. I do not need to build a massive warehouse to store this - and other - build/builds). 4) Relating to the scale again - this build will be a stepping board to a series of much more complicated builds of ships within the golden age of sail. I wish to keep the scale the same across all ships, so I can see how the size of a relatively small ship (this 6th rate, or something like the Royal Caroline) relates to something like a 1st rate. Again, the size of the largest ship will have to fit within my house. I spent a few months looking at as many build logs as possible to gain ideas as to how to tackle my wishes. A) Thinking about scale, I had two preferred sizes: 1:32 (this scale was chosen as there are good quality figurines available that require painting - another hobby of mine) and 1:48 (this scale relates to my earlier interests in moddeling: WWII aircraft). Any smaller scale and the figures lack the detail I am looking for. To facilitate making my final choice, I copied the cross section in 1:48 (the scale of the plans) and increased it to fit 1:32 (an increase of 50%). It was then that I realised that 1:32 would not meet criteria 3 and 4. So 1:48 it is. Thinking about how to depict building method and life on board, I had a number of difficulties to overcome. When looking at other build logs, it struck me that in many cases the frames were futher apart than mentioned in Peter Goodwins literature (the admiralty style shows the lines of the ship, not how it was built at the time). Furthermore, it appears to me that it is quit difficult to show details of the inside through these narrow gaps - this is a perception of mine, I may be wrong. (So criteria 1 is met, but criteria 2 is not) I have also seen models where the outer hull (planking and frames) on one side of the ship is (mostly) removed to show the inside. This fits with criteria 2, but how do I incorporate criteria 1 in this method? Also, these models kept the interior rather bare, which does not conform with the impressions I have when reading literature relating to the cramped conditions that must have existed at the time (e.g. this ship had a crew compliment of 140). Looking closer at these thought I realised that I wanted to have a combination of building a ship and fitting it into a diorama of sorts. So then I decided on the following: 1) one side of the hull (port side) will be completely planked; 2) the other side (starboard) will show how the hull was built - all frames, half frames, etc.; but no planks on the outside; 3) at the starboard side I will cut strategic openings to show specific scenes going on inside the hull; 4) the ship will be fully rigged, again showing what may happen at a particular time during the voyage. Relating to point 3 and 4 - I must make sure that all activities are related to the same point in time. For instance, It would be silly to show the raising of the anchor (below deck) while at the same time showing the stowing of sails above deck. Somehow that does not compute - the first depict the beginning of the voyage, while the last in extreme cases the en of the voyage. As this is my first scratch build, it will go slow (learning the ropes while building, so to speak). This means I have plenty of time to decide what scenes to depict. I will appreciate any input/ ideas any of you can bring. The first step is to build the empty hull to a point where decks need to be built. Slainte Peter
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