Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Victory Models'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT** 
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Non-ship/categorised builds
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Finally made a start, after getting the work area cosy. Good to read through the instructions, as recommended, as found a few errors in the bulkhead and other pieces indentification. Also found the bulkheads were a little loose in the keel piece. One of the many videos I've watched suggested Lego blocks for a perfect right angle. And they have worked a treat. False deck just gone on. Again, from watching many videos I wont be putting the stern and bow posts, or keel piece until first planking complete. Im sure there are many mistakes already, but I'm quite happy, so far, for this first attempt.
  2. Well here we go - after a long hiatus (and a half dozen or so planes, trains, & automobiles) I'm back in the shipyard with the HMS Pegasus. I won't spend any time on the history, etc - since Victory's Pegasus is pretty prominent throughout the forum. However, I will add a little background why she's my current project. I have four adult children (3 girls and boy) and three ships to go around. So I let the youngest pick out what she she wanted to be built for her. Nice choice kiddo. As with my previous builds, I tend to mix somewhere between 70% accuracy and 30% artistic licensed - which will be the case with the Pegasus as well. Meanwhile, I'll be leaning pretty heavily on Blue Ensign's build (which I believe sets a benchmark for Pegasus..es... Pegasi? in terms of accuracy) as well as Danny Vadas' spectacular work on the Vulture. As always - I thank you all in advance for your encouragement and support. It's good to be back. Here's the typical start to the build. I've gone ahead and added the rabbet even though the plans say it's unnecessary. As I've perused other builds, it looks like it's probably going to come in handy.
  3. This is not so much a build log from the start as a log for a restart from where I left off ,I had a full build log back on the old forums before the great server crash's in 2013 , I really didn't feel like rebuilding it after the 2nd crash and losing it all again .so I kind of just left it! ,after buying the corel Victory cross section and getting irked at it I decided I restart Pegasus and finally finish her. There isn't anything early on in the build that's different from other Pegasus builds other than I had to build a new Stem because the kit one shattered , partition for the fo'c'sle, added the missing sweep ports ,bought new turned brass guns/swivel guns and started the coppering. I've removed the copper because after 3 moves in 2 1/2 years a couple of years ago the original plates are MIA and I'd made a few mistakes so I'm ordering replacements and re-doing it! , I also had and have plans to add missing parts with the help of David Antscherl's Swan Class books , so things like gangwalk's , billboards and linings etc Richard
  4. My four year build log has alas fallen victim to the latest system upgrade, and like the ship she represents is now presumed lost, as Pegasus was in 1777. To re-instate all the information contained within the orginal log which ran for over 100 pages is a bit of an ask but where I can pick up the information quickly I will include it in this replacement log with priority being given to specific aspects where I have modified the basic kit, to produce the model which is now allbut finished. My log which was first posted in 2013 lacked much of the earlier stages of the build which had been going since 2010, and this revision will include aspects of the earlier build stages which may assist those embarking on a new Swan build adventure. I would like to thank all those members who have shown interest in my build over the past four years, and for the many appreciative comments and 'likes' I received. I still can't believe that over 257,000 visits were made to the log, but it is nice to think that it was of use to the membership. Also thank you to those who have messaged me with kind words about the loss of the original log, and with offers of help. Hopefully this revised version, risen from the ashes, will continue to provide useful information to the membership, particularly those involved with Swan Class Sloops. B.E. 5th March 2017
  5. Hello, I was absolutely amazed by Lady Nelson build video "in motion" and I wanted this model kit for a long time now. I guess that it took me way too long to buy this kit myself so I got it as a gift Time for a new adventure! (the background is... another "model" that I am building as well)
  6. I’m coming at this build log late. I’ve progressed a lot since these were taken, but I’m not done yet. Rather than recap in detail, I would like to post these pics of Pegasus at various spots that take me up to where I am now and I’ll pick up the build log there. Bulkheads on. Planking the gun deck. Gun deck completed. Starting the details. Pumps. Put rust detail around them. First layer of planking. Port side first layer done. First layer sanded. Second layer done and in homemade clamp. Putting gun port planks on. Gingerbread. Started to paint. Stern gallery attached. Copper plate on. Another view of copper. Gun jig I made. Gun tackle in. More deck furniture. Ship’s bell. Railing before Railing after painting and polywipe. Gold gingerbread on stern. Gingerbread on stbd stern window. This catches me up to my build. I am building a stand at the moment. Once it is complete, I will continue with the log. Jason
  7. Hello all! After reading through several posts and build logs, I decided to start my modeling adventure with the Lady Nelson. I have no carpentry/wood-working experience or with many of the very practical things that go into ship modeling, but I do look forward to this craft which so many seem to have found stimulating as well as satisfying. I think my first encounter with ship modeling was through my high school band director 20 years ago, and if I’m not mistaken, his first model was the HMS Victory. Now that I have started reading through build logs and such, I am mightily curious which model kit he started with and what scale he completed! Incidentally, he also got me started reading both C.S. Forester and Patrick O’Brian, so this interest in nautical history and ship modeling has been a little ambition of mine for a long time, which I am finally starting to make good on. Reading many of the logs available on the Lady Nelson, so many folks have made different improvements along the way to the kit, and I have been having this little debate in my head as to what I might improve and whether or not I will work to elevate the model in a particular way or in several ways. In one sense, there is just the hurdle of the first build (and planking!) to surmount, and then adding various bits to the model can seem daunting when I’m not even so sure that my bulkheads are installed properly! I also understand the need to plan ahead for those improvements should I decide to make them. But all in all, I have decided to try and have fun, take on the problems as they come and let the next step be the next step. I’ll post some of my initial issues and current progress soon. Cheers!
  8. 'On the shoulders of giants...' I have to say that the build logs here for HMS Fly/Pegasus have been an inspiration to me on how to navigate my first true 'scale' ship. Particular thanks go to Blue Ensign for posting his Pegasus build... TWICE... after the great crash. I received the kit a few weeks ago but was torn between my 'one at a time' philosophy of boats under construction. That has now changed and I'm going to make a slow start (and probably build) of this excellent kit. In December 2022 I started building HMS Golden star and am using it to resurrect some woodworking skills not used since building Kiel-Kraft balsa spitfires, Fokker triplanes and Stukas back when my age was a single digit (I'm now over halfway to 3 digits!). The Golden Star is progressing but am a little 'hung up' on the fact that its not a true scale model of any particular ship, but as a starter in this hobby it serves its purpose as an excellent training build. There is yet another build on the go of a scratch built HMS Victory but I needed to get retrained hence the current builds. The current plan (and this may and probably will change) is to build it with full cabins at the rear (again thanks Blue Ensign), leave the hull planked (in Boxwood) unpainted and not coppered. Guns and carriages will be changed to Syren, boat kits will be added and the thought of dinner by candlelight in the Captains cabin is very tempting (flickering LED lights). So after breaking etiquette by not showing the 'opening the box' series of photos in my Star build here they are... The box And inside.... Lots of plans which I haven't looked at yet... Brass photoetch....nice.... (cant be as hard to assemble as a 1/24 scale Martin Baker ejection seat in PE can it?) Hours of fun here.... I've got wood.... and finally the 4 MDF sheets. I think I will spend the evening dry fitting the hull and building the cradle, although a 'scale' slipway will be created for display purposes (which I probably wont need for a few years!). Avast me hearties!!!!!!!!
  9. Welcome to my first building log! Over a year ago i started building Lady Nelson from Amati. It is my second attempt to build wooden ship. Bit late but anyway I decided to share building progress with You. Unfortunately I haven't documented early stages of construction. First photos I made below. The hull is ready and painted. I like detail so first of them that I have made to this stage: rudder Maciek
  10. Today I was supposed to go to work but it was raining, so I decided to do a kit opening page for my new log, the Pegasus. The contents of the kit look really good, as I put things away , and get ready to build. My keel is made of plywood, not mdf. Must be an older kit, I assume. I dont know much about the Pegasus, but she sank in Canada in 1777, a little over a year after she was launched. So putting things away, the keel fell out of the box, lol, so I decided to make the temporary stand, and dry fit everything. It went together really well. It does come with a lot of plans and books of understandable instructions. I dry fitted all the bulkheads and got all the keel parts ready. So tomorrow, I will start glueing and beveling the bulkheads, and also the four pairs of plank termination patterns. Then I will see what I need to do next. It is so helpful to know that if I run into problems, this is the place to be to get all the help I need here. Thanks so much for watching. Take care my friends. Bob M.
  11. I’m going to take another stab at a build log, I have been eyeballing this kit since Chris Watton gave his little preview of it way back when.... I found a few build logs on here but I think only one of them has been completed. I plan on doing my usual kitbashing - replacing most of the kit wood with Pear, Castello Boxwood, Maple, Holly, Redheart, etc.etc. I will probably break down and use some white paint where it’s called for but I hope to come up with some alternative to the decorative paper decals that are on the upper hull - thinking maybe I can do some inlay work or use some inlay strips or something as I don’t want to use the paper and I don’t really want that much bright coloration on my Revenge. I purchased the kit from Ages of Sail - first time I didn’t use CMB for a kit - even with a 5% discount CMB was over $30 more delivered.... I must say that Ages of Sail was top notch, a human answered the phone every time I called, they were knowledgeable, competitive and efficient, called right at closing - they still took my order, packaged it very well and got it out the next day. I won’t hesitate to buy from them again. Not affiliated, just great customer service and earned a great shout out.I won’t show the kit contents- James H. Has a great review on here and several logs show what you get. I must say that the kit is very nice, the supplied strips and dimensioned wood is very high quality, the MDF is great, etched brass, cannons and embellishments are well done. I’m not a big fan of the African Walnut (Dibetou) they provide but the laser cutting is top notch and as long as you are cautious with the grain direction it will be just fine. I will probably be re- making most of it with other woods though.
  12. I'm going to slowly re-create my build log on Lady Nelson I published on another forum. I've left that forum never to return so I'd like to have an active version of the build log I completed there. The rest of this post and this log is my posting my off-line copy of that build log. I hope perhaps it might help someone new to modeling. For me this simple kit was a reintroduction after and extended absence. I'll throw a few [NOTES] in it as I go, the log was started originally in January 2020. So here goes: ------------------- I started all my ship builds with a purpose; I learned the process with the AVS practicum, developed technique and accuracy with the Granado, painted with exotic woods to achieve color differentiation with the fully framed Fair American, achieved what I could of historical accuracy with Pegasus with plans from the Maritime museum and Antscherl's books, built a “74” with Vanguard. After 8 models I was done, finishing the last in 2017. Ultimately though I missed the building part so I recently purchased the Lady Nelson. It’s a small ship but the process is the same, it’s a nice model to spend time with, without spending a LONG time building it. My detailed build logs for the Fair American, Pegasus, and Granado were lost due to infamous system crash on Model Ship World, though the somewhat abbreviated Vanguard log is still there. Sadly I wasn’t smart enough to keep offline copies then. So, in the hopes of providing some entertainment, help with building models, or demonstrating how not too depending on your viewpoint here’s my log for the Amati Lady Nelson. The kit, despite the small craft, is another well designed Victory model series designed by Chris Watton, although he informs me it was 30 years ago. The material, parts, plans, are all of good quality. I [then] only build from kits by Amati or Caldercraft, I am confident I’ll have a good start when I open the box. [NOTE: I'm since a bigger fan of Vanguard Models and Syren Ship Model company. My current build is the HM Cutter Cheerful, link below.] I’ve reached the point where I’m far more dependent on the plans than instructions. That’s good in this case because the plans are well done and the instructions are surprisingly brief. I’m not sure a beginning modeler would get what they need with them, so then the importance of a website like Model Ship World to seek additional help. Without being overly critical the MDF in my kit is a bit soft and the walnut laser cut part sheets are too brittle, I’ve already broken and repaired a few parts despite being careful in removing them from the sheets. I would still buy the kit, maybe my wasn’t stored in the best place at the store I purchased it from. It doesn’t deter my recommendation for Amati Victory series models. I have a kit and now a job to do, who says retirement is boring.
  13. Build log HMS Bellerophon Introduction A model of a ship of the line from the Napoleonic wars was something I wanted to build for a long time. From the range of kits available I ended up with 2 favourites. The selection of those two was because of kit quality (should be good), scale and size of the finished model. As my last 4 projects were all in 1/64 I tended towards the same scale. Finally I had to choose between Caldercrafts Agamemnon (64) and Victory models Vanguard (74). The decision for Vanguard was made because of the following points: - the 74 is the classical ship of the line -I can build the Bellerophon variant which I like for her direct connection with Napoleon (Here, in Switzerland, he had a much bigger influence (not all negative) than Nelson). - copper plates are of better quality - the scale is with 1/72 close enough to my favoured one and... - the overall size is 10% less. As additional information source I will use Brian Laverys book 'The 74-gun ship Bellona' from the Anatomy of the Ship series. After checking the available build logs and comparing them with the Bellona plans as well as with the Bellerophon plan in 'The Ships of Trafalgar' I think that I will check and perhaps alter a few points: - The bulwark of the quarter deck must probably be lower in its forward part to be similar to Bellerophon plans in the internet or to Bellona's profile. I will have to find out if the heightened bulwark was an later alteration and if it was in place in 1805. However in the book 'The ships of Trafalgar' is a plan for the Bellerophon which shows the lower bulwark variant. plan from the kit... ...and from the one available from NMM (on my wish list) The rail on top of the foremost gun ports is here interrupted. On other plans it is running through in one piece. As Bellerophone's skipper I will install a continuous rail (looks smarter). - The kit's gun carriages are very nicely cast and show a lot of details - but look different from all the examples available in books or the internet. I have no idea where they found a prototype like that. Replacing them would be a lot of work and money. I will try to rework them a bit. - The dummy guns on the lower deck are not quite satisfactory. Possible solutions would be replacements by full guns (again expensive and requiring a lot of work for an mediocre improvement) or the installation of 'dummy carriages' similar to those used by Michael (md1400cs) on his fantastic Vasa. - The stern should gain a bit more transparency. I could make lighter side galleries and leave a door to them open. I guess to change the whole stern construction to enlarge the visible part of cabin and wardroom would be too much work for a small and hardly visible gain. However the taffrail overhanging the skippers balcony seems to low - overshadowing the cabin windows. The Bellona model looks a bit different. I will try to cut back that overhang a bit. - The question if any, how and what sails will be bent on will be decided when starting on the masts. - I haven't decided yet if the colour scheme will be pre- or post-1800. The Nelson scheme has a dark elegance but hides the wood...
  14. Hello all. After completing Bluenose this will be my 2nd build. This time I wanted something with guns. There is a lot of very tempting kits and finally decided to go with Mercury, which attracted me even when I was buying my first kit. The first impression is that this kit is of very high quality. Instructions are one of the best I have ever See, especially I like separate plan sheets for rigging which will be quite a job to do. My plans: -I like natural finish of wood as seen on NMM Greenwich models. This mean that most of the model is going to be unpainted, and I am going to change A LOT of materials provided in kit. For most of the build I am planning to use pear wood, maple And some walnut. As Ebony I will stain pear wood. Today I received wood from Germany (2nd picture) . -There will be no coopering on hull, reason is above. -Deck planking. Laser engraved plywood deck looks good, but not good enough for me. I will most likely use maple, but have pear For backup. As this is my second build and still don't wont to overcomplicate it I am thinking to use "normal" straight Pattern for planking like on brig Syrene for example, instead of curvature shape. -Armament. From personal aspect I like the look of guns instead of carronades on deck more. Don't ask me why, just like them . So I am still in research if there is any possibility that Mercury carried guns before carronades or has sister ship. This can be Seen on HMS Cruizer (guns) vs. HMS Snake (carronade) and Le Cyclope vs. Le Cygne. I have already purchased 6pdr Guns but will wait with that. If anyone could help me with this information I would very appreciate it. -Sails. I am planing to do Mercury with partially set sails Well, that's it for the moment.
  15. Hi After mothballing my HMS Fly for eight years and delving in making Wingnut Wings WWI plastic kits, I am returning to Fly with the intention to render it as a hull only model but keep the option for future rigging by making the mast stubs removable. Here, in this reloaded log, I will compress my previous log but keep the information that might be useful to other Pegasus/Fly builders. After I finish the reload I will delete the old log. Many years ago I bought all four volumes of the the FFM Swan Class Sloops from Seawatch Books which I have been studying in the last few days as I did when I was working on Fly. Stupidly during the first phase of building I kept no notes of what I was using - rope sizes, paint colours, block sizes; etc. - so the old log is good for a memory jolt. I will keep a notebook from now on! As a rule I try to get the details historically correct - the FFM helps as do other logs here (especially Blue Ensign's) - but I also defer to my own aesthetic taste in instances where this may be slightly incorrect, e.g. my quarter badges which attracted some comment back then. My method of weathering the copper clad hull also attracted a lot of comments! But I stand by it. So to kick off this reload: I started by scratch building the binnacle - this was to get my head around the model's scale and to navigate my way forward with the build: Next I reworked the quarter badges - I think 'Realworkingsailor' sent me the profiles. I got some comments about how this was historically wrong for Fly but I still much prefer them to the flat white metal kit supplied badges. I also reference VII of the FFM, page 293 - 297 which describes a similar badge. I'm using styrene to build the window frames but kit PE for the panes. The "dolphins" are also kit PE but difficult to fit to the window head. At this point I'm still avoiding the hull... Scratched quarter badges versus kit supplied: Next I got into the hard yards of the hull. I actually really enjoy this part of the build as mere frames become a three dimensional thing. Through practice and many failures I have lost the fear of planking but I know it is a steep learning curve for first time builders as it was for me. Framing complete The lower deck is planked where it might be seen through the hatches. The 'false' main deck is checked for fit and marked out for future planking. In my model version this deck comes in two halves which needs work between fit with the frames and uplift in the middle. Next I fair the frames and balsawood block and fill to the bow and stern which really helps both with the fairing and with planking. It gives you shape and adhesion where you most need it. I added a bulkhead at the end of the main deck. This is not glued at this point. Made from cardboard with a light, dirty wash and walnut frames. I try in vain to see it now but it is there... Next up the deck is installed smoothed off, main mast partners installed and deck planking begins. I bought after-market holly for the decks. This was after experimenting but holly is very white and almost free of grain. I like it but it might not be for everyone. On many models I see poor decking is a let down for an otherwise really good model and I think it is worth experimenting and planning before you commit. I mapped the main deck on tracing paper and transferred that to the actual deck. I also have trouble with treenails on a model deck. Black nails can start to look like pimples especially if the deck set out is not well planned. So I opted for a pale wood paste for the deck nails. Several people pulled me up for this but I like that you can see them when you want and they disappear at other angles. Caulking was done with a pencil on one edge only. With a tightly fitted deck that works fine to my eye. The hatches are from boxwood with box corner joints. They sit within the decking rather than on top. this requires a bit of cross coordination but works for me. The top edge of the hatch is slightly rounded. Lego is a great squaring device for making hatches. Next I test the hatch fit and smooth off the main run of planks. I still haven't grappled with the edge planking but it still fits my mapping. I'm not saying I got this right but certainly the planning made me feel better about the outcome. Then I drill for the treenails...this to me looks far too pimply so I fill with pale paste. At this point it is time to do the first planking. Gulp. This kit, as many others do now (or then, I can't remember...), provides a plywood pattern for the gun ports and upper works. As challenging as this is to fit - it just takes time and patience - it is a brilliant guide to all the planking that is to come. However poor fitting of the patterns has undone some modelling. I think Chuck expresses this perfectly - "Just take your time." It is an adage for all model making...Notice that the forecastle and quarter deck templates are dry fitted to guide the plywood pattern. Finally getting the patterns to join at the bow is when you know it fits. And take some extreme measures such as clamping and nailing. Get these parts right and you are underway. Next it is finally time for the first planking layer. Although this is only my fourth plank on frame model, I now treat the first layer as if was the only one. That is I try to make is a good as I can as that teaches me for the second layer. I don't approach it as being sacrificial and try to make the plank runs flow from stem to stern as they must on the second layer. Next is the outer layer of planking. The kit provides walnut but I find this too dark and too variable in colour. I replaced it with boxwood which is a colour I prefer and a beautiful timber to work with. The second layer was eased by the effort on the first - I just followed those planks with full adhesion along the length of the hull. Next up for me was painting and fiddling those details. Then fiddling with other details such as making a stove. And the capstan upper and lower details. Another thought on the photo above. I work hard to fit the gratings into the hatches so that all the edges are symmetrical across and along. the two aft hatches here have a thin edge aft and forward and a fatter edge starboard and port but they equal. It seems minor but is easy to do and the alternative just looks...bad. Next up were the wales. These are critical to the hull shaping and look and were the most scary part of the hull build. Wales that waver off line look really bad, even on a good hull. I challenged myself to make them in the correct figure pattern - I don't know what to otherwise call this - but it helped with the part. I sure know that the stem to stern look and flow of the wales is critical to the model and defines everything above and below on the hull. Unfortunately my efforts to paint and polish the wale almost completely eliminated any visual proof of the planking technique. And it does have a wobble here and there. Will continue tomorrow. time for bed now. Cheers, A
  16. Hello Everyone - I've just come back to ship modelling after a long hiatus - work and family took all my time and space - now I have both. Decided to start with the Swan class Pegasus. I've done several other models - the Revell Cutty Sark in the mid-60's and Model Shipways Rattlesnake in the 70's. Neither one has survived the intervening years. I have read over twenty build logs on the Pegasus, Fly and Syren. Learned a lot before starting. I will try to only show/add things that I think others might benefit from slightly more detail - or things I have decided after looking at how many others approached the challenge. I am amazed at the quality of the builds out there - truly impressive. I have already received some very good advice from a few members by asking questions about their builds - - it's a great help. Look forward to interacting with the community. SkipW Just beginning main deck planking
  17. Hi all and welcome to my first ever build log. I was gifted the lady Nelson kit as a birthday present and I’m super excited to get started. It’s my first wooden ship kit so this is all new to me. I have been building model kits since I can remember but nothing like this before. as the instructions are a bit vague for a beginner like myself I’m reading through other posts first. are there any video instructions for this particular kit ? thanks all
  18. So, my build log of the Pegasus kit from Victory. I’m not going to describe the kit contents as there are quite a few build logs here on MSW that do exactly that, the latest being that by Mugje. The first task was to read the instructions carefully, at least as far as the first planking, examine the plans and read the already existing build logs. The second task was to repeat the first to ensure that I had a more than reasonable grasp of what was to be involved in starting this build. Unfortunately, the result of all this reading was information overload, but anyway, on with the build. As well as the information in the build logs, I will occasionally refer to the "The Fully Framed Model" by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert. After numbering, the false keel and the bulkheads were removed from their sheets and trial fitted. All slots had to be eased slightly as the fit was just a little bit too tight. It was noticed that bulkhead 13, the last one, was not properly centered when slotted fully home onto its tab - it was slightly shifted to starboard. The slot in the bulkhead was widened with a few passes with a file to correct this. The false keel has to be thinned near the sternpost to allow for the thickness of the two layers of planking to closely match the width of the sternpost. To do this, the bearding line first needed to be drawn on the false keel as the thinning starts here. The kit plans do not show this, and in looking at the logs there is some variation in builders’ interpretation of where this line should be. I drew my line so that it clipped the fore edges of bulkheads 9-12 and finished under the filler block (part 16). A 2mm wide strip of wood was spot glued to the rear of the false keel to aid in sanding the false keel to the needed thickness. The bearding line was continued along the keel as a marker for a rabbet here, and then along for the stem rabbet. Although Chris Watton in one of his posts says that a keel rabbet was unnecessary, I decided to cut one for the experience. A knife cut was made along the line using a steel rule to keep it straight. A chisel was then used to pare the MDF to give the rabbet. A 2mm wide wood strip was spot glued along the bottom of the false keel to guide the depth of the cut and then removed. A similar method was used to cut the rabbet at the stem. The MDF cut easily. The walnut stem and the two keel parts were glued to the false keel. The stern post was not fitted at this time to allow easy sanding of the first planking at the stern. The rabbet at the stem completed. I’d decided to mount the Pegasus on pedestals, so mounting holes, for 3mm bolts, had to be drilled through the base, the pedestals, the (real) keel and far enough into the false keel to give secure mounting. Captive nuts were epoxied into slots cut near the end of the holes in the false keel and small pieces of ply were epoxied over these for additional strength and to help in preventing the nut from turning. The only 3mm bolts I could find locally were too short for my need, so two bolts were joined to form one by expoxying them into a brass sleeve which was then crimped. I thought epoxy rather than solder was more than sufficient. The bolts were run in and out repeatedly to ensure that there was no binding or glue blocking the holes. The ends of the bolts were rounded to enable them to easily “find” the nuts. Trial mounting onto the pedestals. The bulkheads, the false lower deck and the main, fore and aft decks were trial fitted and then removed. The slots in the main deck needed slight easing to enable it to be fitted without undue force. The lower deck, bulkheads and pre-shaped infill blocks were then glued in place on the false keel. Infill blocks were glued in between bulkheads at bow and stern. I used scrap wood that I had rather than buying a sheet of balsa, so the appearance is not as neat as others. After several hours sanding, the hull was apparently faired. Upon checking with a strip of wood though, I found the same problem with BH7 as Mugje did. (To confuse things, Mugje in subsequent posts referred to the bulkhead as BH6, though the photos are clearly that of BH7).That is, the strip does not fair smoothly past BH7, but there is a gap between it and the bulkhead. The gap was more prominent at the top of the bulkhead and decreases towards the keel, and is the same on both sides of the hull. It would seem that either BH7 is slightly undersized, or the adjacent bulkheads are slightly oversized. More gentle sanding was done on bulkheads 5,6,8 and 9 but even so, the fairing still was not smooth. So, a shim strip was glued to BH7 and finally, after BH7 was sanded, a fair run from BH5 through to BH9 was achieved. Although totally unnecessary, the lower deck was partly planked below the main hatch. Antscherl describes the kingplank of the lower deck as being 3 inches thick and, as the remainder of the deck planking is 2 inches thick, it stands proud by 1 inch. So a kingplank 1mm thick was laid, and with the other planks being 0.6mm thick, it stands proud by about 1 inch equivalent. Not that anybody's ever going to see this. The stern counter pieces were glued into their slots. The quarterdeck was positioned to ensure that the outer pieces were angled inwards correctly. A minor amount of sanding was required to fair these. The main deck was glued in place and is ready for planking. Cheers.
  19. Greetings Everyone, The Lady arrived a few days ago. I've been picking up ship building tools, doing lots of research and got the work bench turned into a ship yard. You may notice the tools on the peg board don't look like model ship building tools... I have built 6 classical and 4 acoustic guitars. The bench was also an RC helicopter and airplane hanger for a few years, and now it's being converted to a shipyard. I retire in 19 days and will get at it. 🙂
  20. Hello! Just ordered my first build, the Lady Nelson by Amati. I spent quite a bit of time researching a good first build, and heavily debated going with the 3-ship kit from Model Shipways. I certainly see the value of scaffolding your skills with different levels of practice, but at the end of the day none of the builds excited me. I'm also a competent woodworker and figured I could handle a bit more on the first go. The history behind the Lady Nelson was the final tipping point for me, as I love the stories behind a ship just as much as I love looking at them. I've seen many build logs have already been completed, and I plan to start taking notes on these throughout the next few days as I wait for my order to arrive. As far as tools, I was wondering if there were any other woodworkers out there who then went into model building. My wood shop is adequately equipped, both power and hand tools, but are there model specific tools that I'd likely not have? Thanks for reading and thanks in advanced for your support! This forum was a big factor in taking the plunge!
  21. So the journey begins. I'd been planning on getting into building model ships and what better excuse than the quarantine to start? After some online research, I picked the Amati Lady Nelson. Then I needed tools. I basically had nothing since I had downsized into a small cottage from a 4-bedroom house and had to sell/giveaway most every tool I had accumulated over 30 years. Boy, it wasn't cheap to restock and I included a starter airbrushing kit from Master Airbrush and a spray booth. Was not willing to brush paint all what needed to be painted. Also, it was a scramble to get tools; most of the modeling sites had a lot of out-of-stock for items. Guess a lot of folks are doing the same as me. Then it was looking for help. This site was fairly easy to find and has a lot of good stuff, especially the Build Logs. I also looked for build video logs. Those on Modelers Central were way too expensive. But I did find that Amati released free video build logs of the their Lady Nelson by Models Shipyard. There are 20 of them on Facebook, starting here: https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=Amati Modellismo lady nelson&epa=SEARCH_BOX . The builder takes some different paths from the Amati instructions, such as beveling the bulkheads AFTER adding them to the false keel. After comparing his approach to what I found in the build logs and other tutorials here, I decided to follow his process, supplemented with tips from the MSW logs. The most comprehensive MSW log I found for this ship was by vossiewulf. Wow, he is one master builder! Anybody know why he didn't finish it? Too bad; I would have loved to see the final product. Anyway, as to my build. Below is where I am. One issue I ran into was while beveling the bulkheads: the false deck popped up at the edges, not by much, but it did flatten the deck somewhat. When I first glued the deck, it had a bigger curve to it, port to starboard. I didn't see a problem with that. After it popped up, I decided to leave it. It still had the curve, just not as pronounced. I looked at the the MS logs and he had the same gaps at the edges that I had, so I don't seem too worried. Here's the bow: And the stern: The MS builder used a marker to highlight the filler blocks and the deadwood before beveling to show what had to be taken off. I also had to take some of the deck off here since it overhung the last bulkhead. I guessed that was needed based from what I saw from the MS logs. The only issue I had at this point was supporting the gluing of the outside stern counter frames into their slots. With the bulkhead beveling, I had removed most of what those frames would stick to. So I glued 2 x pieces of the 1mm plywood sheet underneath the deck between the last two bulkheads. See below. Those frames are not going to move. So I'm off to attach the 3 x keel pieces and then move onto the first planking. Some observations: The MS builder avoided using balsa bulkhead filler blocks between the bow and stern bulwarks. When I saw that technique in the MSW logs, I did think that was a bit overkill for this small ship. I figured two sets of hull planking would eliminate having to deal with the thick filler blocks. Surprised vossiewulf went there. Also, he and others had the tools to easily make those blocks; I don't. Comments anybody? The MS builder's plan for tapering the planks involves calculating how much to take off on either end based on mathematical formulae which I found easy to comprehend. When I looked at planking guidelines here, it appeared to involve drawing lines on the bulwark edges or lines, bow to stern, on a fully filler-block loaded hulls and then taking measurements. That seemed a little tedious so I'm planning on following the MS builder's plan. Also, he planes off what needs to go . Some of the MSW log techniques appear to draw a line on the planks and then utilize a craft knife to remove the excess. I'm going with planing the edge off a plank held in a vise. Final painting scheme is still fluid. My current thinking is (comments welcome): Hull: White paint from the bottom to the waterline. (Maybe tinged with a little green or maybe grey.) Walnut paint from the waterline to the main whale (maybe walnut stain) Black paint main wale Walnut paint from top of main wale to the top of the hull, including the upper wale (Again, maybe walnut stain) Black paint for capping rail. (Any reason I shouldn't paint the rails before attaching them? Obliviously need to deal with the pin holes, but not a big deal compared to painting the rails in place.) Deck: Carriage red for the bulwark side planks. Same for hatches and the frames walnut (flipped from what I see on the MSW logs, but the Italian version of MSW showed that and I thought it had a better look.) Red for the gun carriage, flat black for the guns. As for the rigging of these, I see vossiewulf tried but then abandoned to rig with them with 2 x side tackles and 2 x train tackles and went with just 1 x centered train tackle because there was no room on the deck for all that rigging. I will follow his lead on that. Natural for the deck, no paint. The MS builder used, as a deck scraper, a piece of thick glass and that gave it a nice look. I'm trying to find a piece of glass; may break a window! Off I go; wish me luck...John
  22. OK, I'm going to try and recreate parts of my build log for HMS Fly. I have been working on this model for so long that it has now gone through the deaths of two sites - once at the old Dry Dock Models, and once during the Great Crash of 2013. First a little back story. I bought this kit waaaaay back in 2006 - it was one of the very first production kits off the line. It should be done by now, and if it were anyone else but me, it probably would be. But that's not the way I build. My modeling urges come in intermittent fits and spurts - periods of great progress followed by usually long spells of inactivity, at least on the wood front. I also build card ships and 1/33 scale card aircraft, so sometimes when you see Fly come to a halt, it means I have some other project on the front burner. During the ensuing years, many fine models of Fly and her sister, Pegasus, have been completed here at MSW, so I will not go back to the very beginning and show all the basic framing and planking, etc. Instead, I will highlight some of the bashing I did to the basic kit, mostly to give other builders some hints about what can be done with it. I'm not actually working on Fly at the moment, so don't expect updates in the very near future. Mostly I'm doing this to create a placeholder of sorts. So, on we go!
  23. All, My model showed up two days early, and I felt like Ralphie's dad when the leg lamp showed up. Needless to say it was exciting, so, thanks to the support and motivation of others who have produced some beautiful HM Cutters on this site, here's the start to my first build log and what I imagine will be a great learning curve. May not have time to get deep today, and that's okay! Still waiting on some supplies. ⚓️ Anchors Aweigh, Chris
×
×
  • Create New...