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Late summer 1805, the sun is burning inexorably from above, the wind is completely asleep, the sea is smooth as glass. The dispatches have already been exchanged. The master of the small cutter has just returned to his tiny vessel. Behind it there is towering the enormously massiv silhouette of the huge black and ocher striped three decker. Through the open gunports the lashed up guns can be seen. Also the officers' cabins ports are wide opened by the order of the Captain's to ensure an optimal ventilation of the hot and steamy lower decks. Clatter of activity on some guns being ran out cuts through the silence. The rumble of the heavy guns rolling over the decks and the trampling of countless bare feet and the short shouted commands supported by a multitude of hand signs originate from the ordered gundrill for new gun crews and their officers. In competition between the three decks they are fighting for the fastest rate of firing. The rest of the ships crew is occupied with cleaning and mending duties. The holystone are scratching on the decks. Above all the sails hang slack in their yards. No breath of wind moves them. They are nestled heavily over stays and fighting tops. The captain took advantage of the hot calm to put up all the canvas possible for airing. One of the studdingsails is taken in, the spar tied up with its inner end against the shrouds, in order to mend something on its fittings. Sitting on a swing seat pendent from the fore top, a crew member just is finishing painting over with ocher the originally black coloured mast loops. On the poop Captain Hardy monitors the young cadets´ training in navigation, supported by Lord Nelson, who uses the opportunity to entertain the cadets with stories of his actions and the ideas of his tactical concepts. But in the back of everybodys mind there is just one question - When will there be wind again ... -
Looking at photos of the actual H.M.S. Victory in Portsmouth I see her braces have pendents on them, for the blocks at the yardarms. All my reference material shows the blocks attached to the yards with no pendants, and this is how it is done on all the Victory models I quickly glanced at here on MSW. What gives? -
Hi fellow builders, After 2 years of trying to build the HMS Victory, using the Caldercraft kit I think it's time to show some of my efforts on this forum. I live in Utrecht, The Netherlands, and I regard this as a 10-year project. Building is the fun part, time is of no essence as the fun is much less when the model is finished (speaking for myself). I chose the HMS Victory for several reasons: - The Caldergraft kit is essentially historically correct, although some research is still necessary. - The kit is technically very good, most parts fit without much adjustment - The "original" 1805 Travalgar version of the ship can still be visited in Portmouth and plenty of photo's circulate on the internet, therefore building a historically "correct" model is easier than of many other ships. - Many books can be found on the subject like Longridge, McKay and others. over time I collected a (very) small library on the subject. - There are some build logs of the Victory on the internet of excellent builders, notably Gil Middleton. In some instances my choices differ from theirs, but I will explain my choices as much as possible. In the weeks to follow I wil show the progress so far, which is as far as the 30 cannons on the Upper Gun Deck. Some basic facts about the HMS Victory: The HMS Victory was (and is) the flagship of the English Navy which defeated the combined French-Spanish fleet during the Battle of Trafalgar. Admiral Lord Nelson was mortally wounded during battle by a French sniper, but England won the battle. The HMS Victory is the 5th ship with this name and the largest by far. The ship was ordered in 1758. It is a First Rate Ship with more than 100 cannons. The design of the ship was completely devoted to firepower In 1805 (Trafalgar) ther were: - on the Lower Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 32-pound balls - on the Middle Gun Deck: 28 cannons for 24-pound balls - on the Upper Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Quarterdeck: 12 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Forecastle: 2 cannons voor 12-pound balls and 2 carronades for 68-ponds balls(!!) The total length of the ship is about 70 meter, water displacement more than 2000 tons and almost 5500 square meter of sail can be carried. Some other numbers: 40km rope in the rigging, 1400 blocks, 300 tons of "potable" water, 50 tons of coals, 20 tons of wood, 50 tons of beer, etc. Index First and second planking Wales Gunports Coppering Upper gun deck, cannons and fittings Quarter Deck Forecastle Bow Poop Deck Stern Fascia Quarter Galleries Hull details First an impression of the progress so far. I will try not to bore you with every individual bulkhead and plank. Details will be provided on request (of course).
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Some background: I started this build a year and two months ago. I did some modeling when I was a kid, but discovered other joys of life when I reached puberty :-) In the meantime I settled down and decided to take it up again (I'm 30 years old). I decided to go for a challenge and went for the Heller Victory. I wanted to try all the new and exciting tools & techniques I did not have the money for when I was a kid. I started out using acrylics by brush, but invested in a good compressor and airbrush a couple of months ago. Too bad I did not have this at the start of my build! The finish is so much nicer! The goal is not to make a true to life representation of the actual ship, but a nice looking model in warm colours with lot's of detail that looks good under glass in the living room. Enough background, here are the pictures: You can clearly see half of the hull bee lines haven't received the sepia wash yet I use to give it more depth and a warmer tone. I also need to rework the figurehead a little bit. The white crown is a bit to big and the white horse needs some TLC as well. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the look of the ship! I used some styrene sheet to make the gun port thicker. I like that look even though it's out of scale. After a lot of trial and error, I finally settled on a style of gun carriage lashing. I used 2mm single blocks and Morope rigging chords. The most difficult part was making the two holes in the top blocks. I ruined quite a lot of blocks just to get these guns finished :-) Will need to order lot's more! I was not completely happy with my decks. The colour was a bit to pale, it missed some 'life', and some parts were damaged a bit. So, in a moment of temporary insanity, I went out and got a second Heller Victory kit. Maybe a bit drastic, but now I have spare parts for everything and this allows me to experiment a bit more. I tore out the old deck. This meant I also had to take out the four guns I tackled already, unfortunately. I redid the decks using the same technique, but this time I added two coats of MIG brown filter. This added a nice weathered wood tone. I'm very happy with the result, but judge for yourselves (the foto does not do it justice, though): The stanchions were made using 2mm eyelets and 0.1mm Morope rigging chord. -
Hi, Not sure if these will be useful to anyone in the middle of building Victory, but I visited today and took a bunch of photos... you can find them here... Flickr photo album I'm particularly pleased with the shot below, including an example of an early 19th Century orange plastic bucket (!) - a perfect example of the thing you DIDN'T see when you took the shot! Anyway, they're there, and if they're helpful to anyone, then I'm glad. Any questions about where the shots were taken, let me know, and I'll attempt to answer them. Rob
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[This is a rebuild of my original posts] Here is the start of my build log. Have not done anything like this before so please bear with me. Sometimes I have too much verbiage – what do I mean sometimes! A short deviation: Back in ’83, no not 1883, I flew over the pond to visit the Victory as I had just finished a model of her. I brought a piece of the Victory back here to Canada (given to me) and decided that someday I would build another and put that real piece of the Victory into the next model. That time came last October/November 2009, (can it really be twenty-seven years). I started to look at my photos from ’83. Don’t know what possessed me to start but start I did. After looking at my photos and digging out the slides and prints, I ended up scanning about 45 images that I had taken that wet soggy rainy day in October. I know most of you remember we didn't have digital cameras back then. (Do you think the young ones these days could survive without their instant digital images and have to wait a week or two for the pictures to get back after we mailed them to Kodak for processing?) Those pictures I took just weren't enough. And I don’t feel like booking a flight to London these days. So, how could I build a much better Victory with more real reference pictures of her in Portsmouth? The first challenge was more images and books. The internet is here now, I remember when it wasn't! It took a while to figure out what kit to purchase but time and time again from MSW members and other forum sites this Caldercraft kit appears to be one of the best manufactured. I must admit the 1:64 model of Victory with complete details would have been my purchase if it was on the market from Chris Watton and Amati. I really wanted to do all the decks and will be fiddling the Jotika interior with some smoke and mirrors that I hope will work. My quest for new knowledge of course started with the internet. I am amazed at how much info is buried in those bits and bytes throughout the world. Why wasn't this around when I built my first Victory? My internet surfing shows me there is lots of data on the Jotika / Caldercraft Victory and there are many builds of the Jotika kit with extensive photos etc. What is packed in the box and the contents is well documented. I see no advantage to repeating those excellent reviews. As I haven’t built any models for almost thirty years it was like starting over. And where did I start this time-- I started with Google and typed in “HMS Victory”. After visiting many sites, the first one being the official site and clicking countless numbers of those crazy links I decided to buy some books . Ordered these books: 1. HMS Victory Her Construction, Career and Restoration by Alan McGowan 2. The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships by C Nepean Longridge 3. The Ship Model Builder’s Assistant by Charles G. Davis 4. Anatomy of the Ship The 100- Gun Ship Victory by John McKay I dug out some books I had from way back: 1. Ship Models from Kits by Colin Riches 2. Trafalgar The Nelson Touch by David Howarth 3. Sailing Ships, A Rand McNally Color Illustrated Guide by Attilio Cucari 4. HMS Victory Souvenir Guide Book – bought in Portsmouth ‘83 And went to the library and found these books: (it would have been great to find more but I’m in a land locked city close to mountains. No oceans here so not much maritime information available at the library. Oh well, they got $12 out of me and I got my lifetime library card for these two books: 1. Ship Modelling from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth 2. Wooden Ship-Building by Charles Desmond I can’t believe how much I've read about the Victory, Nelson and the Royal Navy in these past few months. I’m tempted to suggest that building the model is only part of the process. I am stoked to have discovered so much more about the Victory this time around. The internet is a wealth of knowledge and it would have been cool to have it around on the first go-around. Figure I haven’t done so much reading etc. since university! My career path has taken me along the computer highway so I am no stranger to these machines and software. I decided early that I would use the computer to retain the data. I’m sure most of you do too. One very useful internet tool for me has been Yahoo babel fish. This translates an internet page. It proved very useful because one can choose “all languages” in the search engines. When I found a page in a language I could not understand I used this link on a new tab: http://ca.babelfish.yahoo.com and copied the web address onto the babel fish page. Try it, the translation is not perfect but one can get a better gist of the page if you don’t understand the language. This is turning into a book! Back to the pictures! I started to find pictures just with the Google search. By typing “HMS Victory” in the search box, letting it find the sites and then clicking up at the top on images… voila... Image after image. It is truly amazing how many photos are on the net. And what fun it is to go to every photo. There are videos as well. Clicking on the video option lists many videos. Strangely enough, not many individuals have posted a walking tour HD video of the Victory. I’ve only found one good one. Here are the search engines that I use for general items and photos: Google, Bing, Yahoo, and sometimes Alta Vista. I found Truveo.com is great for videos as is YouTube. Just going to their home page and typing HMS Victory brought many videos to view. One of the best places to find photos is Flickr from Yahoo. -
I came across these photos I purchased from the Science museum after my visit in the 1970's. At that time, you could purchase black and white photos of many models in the museums collection. I was of the opinion then, and still am, that Longridge's Victory model is one of the finest models ever made. Sadly, about a decade ago, I heard it was sorely neglected and the hull was in need of serious restoration. I've no idea if the model is even still on display. At any rate, perhaps these photos will be of use to some current dayVictory modeler. -
I am building a Billings Victory. There does not seem to be any reference to the wales in the instructions and no extra material to detail them. I would like to include them in my build. I have the John McKay Victory book which shows the wales, but. My question is, are there any simplified drawings of side elevation showing the positions? (Google searches including wales are not helpful!) -
Hi everyone. I have decided to start working on this kit to break away from the monotony of working on the same kit from several months. I always thought it would never do that but... I just need a break. First hurdle, I got the old kit version on eBay and the directions are only in Italian. I sent an email to Corel l and they very kindly send me the direction in English. However, this is for the second revision of the kit and I unfortunately have the first one. Bummer... Anyone have this kit and the directions on English? -
Hello, olla, ahoy friends and collegues. i think the time just come, that even i create a thread with my work. Not that there is much to show, hehe... i am building Hms victory, as title of the thread would also tell you. by no means i build with much of, what you would call skill, its just mere attempt to finish off what i started as a slightly younger enthusiastic modeller with no clue. i have already described my attempts at building this ship elswhere on this great forum. For those who did not catch it, it whas where i described it as a kit for learning (that for learning what i can and cannot do) and that it is sodomised. The latter i still stand for. In the pictures you will see, why i say so. my appologies for the choice of surrounding for the pictures. My and the admiral we live in a small flat and i dont have a dedicated workshop. for those building the same model, i am on issue 69, building and fitting out fore mast. The gallery sits on slightly out of allignement. Nothing i can do now, and i have learned my lesson. Next one will be built a lot better. You can see, i had to use a lot of filler. It does not bother me, first planking job. Because of that, i had to settle for painting, to cover the botched job. Also, i dont think this was entirely my fault, but bow looks different to what it should. I have faired it to the point where all the planks were sitting flat. Maybe i over did it... Main mast was done according to the instruction, which are btw very, very detailed. Just not correct. Very schematic and simplified. Main yard. Instruction called for twisting the wire into coil and attach it to the yard. I hate the way it look and will re do it using just thread. Should i stiffen the thread using ca glue or pva? I tried to imitate the cannon tackles. Looks so bad... good thing is it wont be visible. Those blocks are just way too big for the scale. Also, i have not had bees wax just yet, when i finished the railings, thats why the line looks so not hanging much... I will take any criticism, altough its too late to fix much of it. For encouragement i thank you in advance. next update will be after the finished fore mast fitting out. one question: what kind of primer to use on hull? I know car primer, but which one? -
Bought my Victory just before Christmas from the proceeds of a house sale. Did a lot of work a few photos but lost them when Hard Drive went down (I was a computer progammer before retiring always took backups just didnt do i often enough) So unless i can recover then will start from where I am now Have finished first planking and the lowerpart of the second planking. On the two models I have previously completed I planked the hull with scale 5" Planks and on both used tree nails No decent pictures of my Panart Victory from 35 years ago (Valued at £5000 by National Maritime Museum). On the Panart San Felipe i did the same (1 Picture added here will add a seperate blog for this later with photos - its been put on the back burner for now) 1 think i think needs adding is that it is easier to cut the BEFORE adding the Hul Frames mark the Frames and Keel joint across the joint so you know when its lined up other wise you might get the keel out of line 1. Hull with first planks done and most of the hull second planks done. Using uper Gle for second planking mmmmm not sure!! 2 and 3 Main DEck ready to fit - lines are 1.25 inches to lay 4 butt plankin - must make sure the buts end where the deck beams are 4. Gun Ports lines with 1mm to allow for the gun ports to close 5. Caldercraft say to line the Entrance port. Tried to find a picture as the top of the frame is shaped and is NOT painted 6. Stern windows - The incredible etched frames with complete this (Wonder when no bets being taken) 7. Main Entrance - From HMS Victory First Rate 1765 by Jonathan Eastland and Iain Ballantyne - Note the Carving of the Head Rail It amazing how the photos show up even little discrepancies I purchased tis Stand from B&Q (UK) it tilts and lifts special offer 34.00 UKP -
Hello, I am considering HMS Victory for my next project. I've decided that before I begin the Victory, I'd like some input from others who've done one. I would appreciate your input and frank appraisal of your kit, the manufacturer, and whether you would use them again if starting over. If not, then which? I would use a kit as a basis but would likely engage in some bashing to enhance authenticity. I would also likely use a good reference like Longridge or one of the many others. Ideas on resources are greedily accepted. Input on wood quality; fitting (wood and metal) quality; plans quality (completeness, readability, accuracy); instruction (readability and accuracy of descriptions, quality of illustrations); accuracy of description of masting and rigging; etc. Any input that you would like to share would be most gratefully acknowledged. Many thanks, Chris Miller
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Hi everyone Here's a few pictures from a recent visit with the family to the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. It was nice to see Victory in her new colours which to be quite honest are not as bad as you would think! (It's not pink ) As they say in film reviews: SPOILER ALERT!!!! I've got a few pictures of the Mary Rose further down. If you are going to see it soon then if it were me I wouldn't look at the pictures. It was breathtaking seeing her for the first time. First of all Victory HMS Warrior Sligthly more modern warships! Here ... comes ... the ... Mary ... Rose ... (can't say you havent' been warned! ) and finally my four year old son holding an actual piece of the Mary Rose anchor cable. How cool is that! Thanks for looking. Hope you enjoyed the pictures. When I get round to it I'll post the rest in the gallery and add a link in this topic. Nick
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Alright, so I'm pretty much new to this site and I've got a question. I was directed here from another forum. I'm not new to modelling plastic kits(mainly airplanes) but I have received an old Mantua kit of the HMS Victory and I'm just wondering if there's anything in particular that I should know about if I plan to ever get started on it. It looks to be in pretty good condition, all the parts are present and accounted for, as well as the full plans and an accompanying guide. It was purchased in the late 60s or early 70s by my father-in-law but he never got around to it. Here's a bunch of pictures of the full set, it was always stored clean and dry as far as I know. The wood itself looks all straight, there's no visible fracturing or cracks and it feels dry. It's rather daunting to me as I've never worked with wood kits before, but I'd like to try it sometime at the very least. Would it be worth it to give it a shot? Alternatively, is there any value in a kit such as this considering it's still produced and sold?
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I just ordered the Lady Nelson kit from Amati/Victory Models. This will be my first model, and I'm excited to get started on it. However, I have a question about the plans for this kit. Do they include any sort of diagram or pattern for the bearding line and the shape of the rabbet joint? I seem to recall seeing a set of plans for another Amati kit, and there was no mention of this feature... I know that I can just look over the plans when the kit arrives, but in the meantime, I'm curious! So, if you've worked on this kit before, please let me know. Thanks!
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Hi There, Just began building this nice and popular vessel. I have already built : - Danish navy schoolship Danmark, Scratch buildt. - Cutty Sark 1:98, Billing Boats - Frigat Jylland, from scratch. Now the main structure are in place, I have to start the planking of the hull. But, due to the mighty curves on this vessels, my question is: How do I bend the 0,3mm walnut strips???? Anybody can help with ideas, pictures? Thanks Pilidk
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Hello everyone. This will by my first model kit log and I am very eager to get started. I have done a few kits in the past, made quite a few mistakes, and learned a lot. This however will be my first cross-section build. It has been a couple years since I worked on a quality kit. I recently finished up my college degree, and I had no time before now to commit to such projects. This Corel Victory Cross Section seemed like a nice little project to refresh my skills before I start on my Model Shipways Syren, which is currently sitting on my shelf. There wasn't very many build log's on MSW for this kit, so I am going to try to make a nice log here for future builders. Anyway at this point I have un-boxed it, checked all the parts for quality, checked for missing parts, and preparing to get started. I am going to try to do as frequent updates as possible on this log, so be sure to check back often. If anyone has worked on this kit in the past I would greatly appreciate any advice or anything to watch out for during the build. The quality of this kit looks great. Instructions are a little hard to follow, but the 6 pages of plans are as accurate and as easy to read as any kit I have ever built. I am looking forward to diving in on this. More coming soon! -
Day one of the build at last. Those frames are a tight fit.
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After having this kit for almost 20 years and finally retiring, I'm preparing to embark on this build. I will be reading with much interest other builds of the Victory. I'm sure I will have questions and I will try to keep a photo log up to date. Any suggestions or "tricks" that others may have are welcome. I will be unpacking all my tools, etc., for the build and purchasing glues and other necessities soon. I'm excited to get started. -
Ahoy Mates First and foremost "Welcome to my Log" From the manufacturer Corel's H.M.S. Victory is designed with a double planked hull in limewood and walnut, with tanganyka strips for planking the deck. All wooden parts are laser-cut to facilitate assembly. Lanterns, railings and other fittings are brass, gilded cast metal and walnut. One hundred cast metal cannon and carronades are burnished for an authentic appearance. Brass gunport frames open and close with hinged lids. Display stand, five diameters or rigging, flags and hammock netting are provided. Fourteen sheets of plans plus an instruction book guarantee a faithful replica. I bought this kit on a whim, my shipbuilding had stalled, it was on one of ME's Super sales (reduced twice), and I was weak, in need of a fix. I had been eyeballing the kit for the last nine months, following similar builds here on MSW, pondering whether or not I would ever be up to this task (this last part is still TBA) and of course watching the price.The owners of Model Expo's recent post regarding their desire to sell may have had some influence on my decision to pull the trigger on this purchase. Regardless I have opened the can and we are now officially at "doors" As this will be a side project for at least the next year (maybe two) please understand future posts maybe few and far between. I have decided to tackle one of my demons on this kit and that is to build it completely using OOB rules (out of box). No upgrades, no side projects, no, I think this would be better if's, but just as Corel designed it along with a practicum of sorts here on MSW. Official OOB modeling rules do allow for painting and I might go there. With that said I will start this build off with a review The box is in a word "packed" and weighs about 11 pounds. Parts were well packaged and in typical Corel fashion; all bulkheads and many parts are precut and bagged. The included lumber was all first rate, cleanly cut, and I would believe "hand picked". I did not find one unusable piece in the entire kit. The Strip lumber was packaged separately in its own box; some bundled by size and type, others a jumbled assortment which will require some effort to sort and identify. Cast pieces come in their own vacuum formed organizer and most are either the gilded brass or the bronzed finish common in most of Corel's offerings. Detail is nice, a step up from the Britannia I have seen included in many other kits . Fourteen sheets ( 2 full sized, 12 half sized ) show both 2D and 3D images of construction steps and various details are included. Accompanying all this are what might be the worst instructions in the industry. Yes that little book is all you get. On a scale of 10, 0 being no instructions I will generously rate this at a 3. In Corel's defense it is listed as an advanced kit and the little book does include what could be considered a basic outline. Conclusion: Corel's version of the HMS Victory looks to be a great kit. Wood and parts are for the most part "top notch". I found one small knot in a 1mm by 1mm strip of walnut and no laser burn what so ever. I do however have some reservations regarding the pressed wood used for the stern and some trim pieces but do not believe them to be a major concern. Overall, I am very happy with my purchase at this point and would have little hesitation recommending this kit . Value wise it is untouchable. Next on my list is to complete the inventory process, and post some close ups. If there is anything you would like to see, now would be a good time to ask.
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Hi Everybody, I started building HMS Victory from the DeAgostini wood build kit supplied in Europe (UK). I have been collecting the magazine issues since Q3 2010, but I only started the build on 31/12/2012, it's my project for 2013 I'll add some pictures below now, to show you my progress so far ... some eight weeks into the project. You can find a much more complete set of pictures of this build on Facebook ... over 830 so far and counting ... find them on the link at the end of this post. I have commentary with every picture in my HMS Victory Model Build set. I have built many kit models in the past, but they have all been plastic kits - this HMS Victory build is my very first attempt at a wooden model. I do not have a workshop or studio to work from, so this model is being built in my sitting room. I'm having great fun doing it, I hope you all get some enjoyment as well, feel free to critique/comment. The complete collection with step-by-step commentary can be found on my Facebook; https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151291206524651.493159.637009650&type=1&l=6948343979 I will continue to add pictures to both the gallery here, and my Facebook. Thanks for reading -
Hi. I am just getting into CAD modeling and I have Solidworks ver 2005. I am learning the very basics at the moment. Not easy at when your over 60. The purpose of learning this is I want to do a very detailed cross section of the Victory. My question is... Is there anyone else out there using Solidworks ?? I have found a few very good Utube starter videos. Any advice apart from telling me to change software is welcome (as I already own Solidworks the cost will kill the project). Many thanks Antony.
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Got another delivery today. Model Expo need to stop having sales. I thought I might add a cross section to the collection which was a bargain for $70 I purchased this before I discovered the fantastic rope from Chuck, so I doubt I will have much use for it. you can never have enough tweezers. I'm usually stealing my wives ones for model building, and now she is eyeing some of mine off this evening. I ordered a few books from amazon too. I'm sure all the information I can absorb will help. Being sick in bed is dangerous with access to online shopping and an addictive new hobby!
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Hello everybody Well, it’s too sad that all earlier postings are lost! Now, let’s start again with filling this wonderful forum. I started my Victory in autumn 2011, was very busy until spring when I had to busy myself with other tasks (paper modelling). In last autumn I restarted with wood modelling while still being busy with card too. First I will show you the coppering. I decided to use copper tape instead of the delivered plates. This was mainly because I don’t want to work with CA (which ends in strong problems with my broncheas). I also decided to do the coppering according to the original, meaning to have 12 copperbands on top and the rest of them leading to them from the bottom. In addition the copper plates should overlap as usually in the Royal Navy, the upper band goes under the lower one and not the other way round as in merchand ships. So I had to start along the waterline and moving downwards. First I draw the lines with pencil and then I cut the foil into plates and then sticking them to the hull. So much for the moment. Cheers, Rosmarie
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Hi Folks, after 9 months I´m back at service and I open my Shipyard again........ I had some health problems but everything is good and I want to show you my new project.....! The HMS Victory Cross-Section, it shows you the part from the mainmast. I change some things as in the kit. At first I use pearwood 2x5mm and inside 1,5x4mm stripes and second I build light inside the ship. But look, here are the first pictures:
Our Emblem
