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Showing results for tags 'Victory'.
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Hi, I'm Phil. I'm about ten months into my build. I've never done a ship of the line before, so this is a learning experience. I chose to build the HMS Victory because I wanted to do a ship of the line. I bought it off of E-Bay on an auction. The kit dates back from 1991. I've had a few difficulties due to the age of the wood and my relative inexperience (compared to most of you guys) in wooden ship modelling. I am very patient. I am very stubborn. I have lots of experience with other types of models to draw from. I have finished the rough work on the hull. Both layers of planking are on. The stern and quarter galleries are built and painted. I have the base color scheme painted on. I am going to be coppering the bottom of the hull. I have 3/16" copper tape, a pounce wheel and Gene Bodnar's article on making copper plates using self adhesive copper tape (thank you very much, Gene, for writing that, as well as the other articles that you have written), that I pulled off of this website. I plan on making very good use of all three . Here's where I'm at right now: -
OK my MSW friends. I am going to need a kick to get me started on my Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. I know it is going to be a long and enjoyable process so I have to eventually get started. I got the kit a good while ago but have only removed the plastic wrapper and peeked inside. Meanwhile I continue working on a previous build but see the box containing that beauty setting there in my peripheral vision. I have spent countless hours reading the build log of other Victory builders. That may be part of my reason for delay. Each time I have my mind set on how I want to proceed once I start I see an idea or technique someone has used and think “Wow that is what I want to do!” So I guess my concern is doing something a certain way then later seeing a better way and being disappointed. My initial internal debate is the process used to paint the hull, especially the stern? I think by far the design of the stern and the paint scheme is so distinctive on the Victory. You see it you know it is the Victory! So beautiful! If you are now building, or did in the past, what was your method to apply the black and yellow ochre. -
Hello, I am a new member and started to build the HMS Victory. Visited this site very often in the last month for building info and found a lot of great building logs. I had problems finding the right location for the top gunport pattern (270). -
Build started September 2021. Early days log and photographs to follow -
I had much less of a break after finishing the Alert than I had thought -- got the itch to start this kit, which I have been looking forward to. It's my first Caldercraft kit and I'm interested in the comparison with Amati and Vanguard -- my gold standards up to now. There are a number of build logs on this kit by builders with much better skills than mine, so I don't know how much added value I can provide, but I find these logs fun to share, and what I'll try to focus on (as in this post) are construction details and issues, and how I addressed them. So I've skipped the "what's in the box" opener, because what's in the box is what you'd expect. There are three manuals: one for the hull -- with pictures, one for rigging, and a third for parts -- which is great, as you don't have to wrestle multiple plan sheets up on the wall to figure out the wood panel and other cut sheet parts. I also bought some white posterboard to provide a better backdrop on my workbench for my pictures. I have finished the first phase of the frame: keel, bulkheads and lowest deck. This kit uses 5mm plywood for all of that -- in all of my other kits these parts have been MDF, and based on my experience with MDF where all the parts slide together easily without sanding, I found working with the plywood a challenge. NONE of the slots in the keel, bulkheads, or deck fit without some more-than-trivial widening. Regular sanding would take forever, and I tried a couple of times to use rotary tool sanding disks, but they get chewed up fast. So I found some 3mm rotary burrs on Amazon, and that did the trick. But with 18 bulkheads and 16 double-sided deck slots, it comes out to 68 slots to widen. Got it done, and everything fit together as you can see. This is a heavy ship because of the plywood and its size. I'm looking forward to digging into it. Regards, David -
Hello and welcome to my log of the HMS Victory by Panart this is not a rolling log as I built the ship before discovering MSW this was my first model ship I completed it in around eleven months ,knowing what I know now about ship building I would have spent more time and added much more detail however I am happy with the results and would like to share the images with you all as from time to time in my other logs you may hear me refear to the victory thankyou for viewing and please enjoy the following steve- 38 replies
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Welcome to my ongoing log of my build of HMS Victory by Panart. Although I have modelled in the past, this is my first model ship, working in wood and metal rather than plastics. Having taken on the project with zero knowledge of model shipbuilding and working with wood at such a small scale it has been a great challenge building this ship to the high standard I wanted. I've built up my skills throughout, learning a lot from fellow modellers on this website, and can say this is my favourite project I've ever worked on. At this current stage I'm really happy with the results and would like to share the images of the build as it progresses.- 18 replies
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20th February 2020 I started this build almost exactly 7 years ago (February 2013) but parked it after perhaps 2 or 3 months for a variety of reasons. Every once in a while I’d half-heartedly take another look but, with no end of other calls on my time – a house renovation, a large garden, a family – it was always easier to justify further procrastination. I finally got going again this January 2020 and am enjoying it immensely this time. One of the reasons I parked it, to be honest, was demoralisation - I hadn’t really appreciated what building a 1:100 Victory would entail and there are some very tedious, repetitive tasks from the outset. I think I was probably expecting it to be something like building planes as a child just with more and different parts. Also, the poor Heller instructions had me scouring the web straight away and landing on Pete Coleman’s site, which was both a blessing and a bane. For those who didn’t ever see it, it was like this site, full of examples of truly extraordinary skill and craftsmanship. The trouble was, having seen what I should do, I couldn’t possibly just whack this together straight out of the box, as intended, and that meant hours and hours on small modifications lay ahead. However, it was always parked, not abandoned! I should say from the outset that this is my first go at high quality model-making. Other than helping my progeny with the odd bit of model-based homework I haven’t touched a model kit in perhaps 45 years. I chose the Victory for sentimental reasons, inspired by the books of Patrick O'Brian, not realising that this is probably the Everest of plastic sailing ship models. In fact the intention was that this would be the only kit I’d ever build, it was a project for one wet and miserable winter rather than a hobby. Who knows, that may change by the time I’ve finished the Victory (assuming I ever do). So, the object of this build log is two-fold; it’s partly to share my learning with anyone else in the same position, novice’s taking on this huge challenge; and partly to seek advice, as I go along, from the many experienced, expert modellers on this forum. It may help if I say what I’m aiming for. I’m not too bothered about true historical or nautical accuracy, just want a really nice looking ship at the end of the day. I’m unlikely to spend much if any time adding features below decks that can’t be seen, but I am making the ‘usual’ modifications like hull thickening, the admirals’ entry and altered side steps. It almost goes without saying that I’m constantly looking at the fantastic work of Dafi, Foxy, Bishophobbies and a few others, though I’m expecting my results to be more modest. That's enough of the intro - in a moment I'll start adding build content. -
Hello all, And yes, another Victory build! Welcome all. My apologies to Amati, but I couldn't wait any longer for their Victory. So I ordered the Caldercraft / Jotika instead as a present to myself on the occasion on my upcoming 40th work anniversary in August. And boy, she is big and heavy. A box filled with 15 kilo's (33 lb) of all kinds of goodies.- 59 replies
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Hello to everybody. Finally started the long voyage. I ordered HMS Victory Caldercraft from CMB and received it just a few days later by UPS, very well packed. I was a bit busy and could not start on it right away. Apart from that I was still undecided whether to install lights on it or not. In the meantime I prepared a rotating board to build it on and did some research on available led’s. I was also browsing HMS Victory Caldercraft builds on MSW. Very nice builds going on, congratulations to Gil Middleton, Seventynet, Rob G, Heinz746, Robert22564 and Dominic. I enjoyed going through their builds and tried to absorb some ideas. So my first decision to make was ‘lights or no lights’. If I opted for the lights I knew it was going to delay the start of my build as I had to do some planning beforehand. After some research on lights available and on builds with lights, I decided to go for it. I think the end result will be worth the extra effort. I sourced small 3mm yellow flickering led’s, candle effect and ordered some of them together with the resistors to see their effect. I dry fitted the keel and bulkheads and literally spent hours looking at it trying to plan how to put the lights in the lower and middle deck gunports. I don’t want the boat to look like the Titanic lit up for its maiden voyage. I decided to put a led in each gunport. I experimented a bit and tried to put the lights in a position where they give a very subdued light, as of course there is nothing to see in the lower gunports, except the dummy rails for the cannons. I wanted to create the effect of a very dim light where the gunports are still a bit dark but you can still see a very dim light with a candle effect. Finger crossed the final result would be what I am hoping for. I also planned from where to pass the wiring for them and for the upper decks. Another thing which was bothering me was the power supply for the lights. I do not want to use batteries as in the future I intend to put it in a glass case and it would be very inconvenient to have to remove the glass case each time you want to switch it on or off. On the other hand I do not want any cables showing coming out of the model. I decided to take out the cables from under the keel and through one of the mountings and base board of a future glass case. I drilled three holes under the keel, two to take the mounting rods and the middle one to pass the wires through. Now that I have visualised more or less how to install the lights for the lower and middle deck gunports I prepared the holes for the wiring in the bulkhead as it is much easier to drill them at this stage, painted the inside of the bulkheads black, and started gluing the bulkheads in place, taking care to have them all at right angles with the keel. Here goes a few images of my working table I prepared and the start of my build. It is going to be a slow start because of the lights. HMS Victory Kit arrived by UPS very well packed. Prepared a rotating working table for the model. Cut a tick MDF board, fitted a tv turntable to it and fixed to the table. The table is on wheels as well. Glued the walnut Stem and the front keelson to the main keel. Prepared and numbered the bulkheads. One of them was not pre-cut properly and repaired. Drilled the holes in the keel for the mounting studs and the hole through which the power will be supplied to the model. Fitted a nut inside the keel to take the mounting studs, and also reinforced the sides of the holes. Dry fitted the structure, sanding and making sure the joints fit without needing to use force. This is the method I used to bend the dummy barrel strips. I steamed the strip in a pot then put it on a flat surface and while rolling a jam jar over it, pull up at one end, repeating this process until the desired bend is achieved. Immagine there are better ways to do it, but for the moment worked fine. Started work on the lights. I cut small squares from a circuit board on which I mounted a led, resistor and a pair of wires. I drilled a whole in each gun port on the dummy barrel strips through which the led’s protruded from the back. This way I did not have to do all the soldering on the model, all I had to do in place was to loop the pair of cable to the next one. Each time I soldered one in place I checked all is lighting up so I don’t find any surprises later on. On the led’s if you switch polarity, it will not light up. Painted black and started gluing the bulkheads to the main keel making sure they are perfectly square. The middle gun deck is only dry fitted for the moment. I have to do the wiring for the lower gun deck first. Installing the lights. The red and black wires are to supply the upper deck lightings, which I still have to plan as I go along. Will appreciate any comments where I can improve, change or am doing any tasks the wrong way. Robert -
Well, here we go. Thanks to invaluable advice on my members introduction page I've managed to start construction. -
This is my first ship model build so please excuse the mistakes. I actually started this model in the mid '90s with the delusion I would build it over a summer, quickly realized I had no concept of what it would actually take, then got distracted by multiple kids and life in general. The result was I took about 20 years off, but always planned to pick it back up again. I dusted it off earlier this year and have finally started to make progress. When I stopped in the '90s I had only completed the ribs, deck, the upper portion of the hull planking, and a few gun ports (that was about the time I realized the true scope of the project). So the first thing I did was finish the gun ports....... Then I moved on to hull planking....first layer (a little rough) Second layer....getting a little smoother High tech waterline tool.....the two-tone wood colour is due to a 20 year gap between laying the planks! -
Well, this one has been a LONG time coming. I mean, this lockdown seems to have lasted a lifetime, so the original notice of Amati's now almost mythical 1:64 HMS Victory seems to have been such a long time ago! A lot of water has passed under the bridge since 2013 when Chris drove to Italy with the original design model in late 2013. Amati had enough general interest about their Victory from modellers to warrant then asking me to build a production prototype for the new format instruction manuals they now use. There were a few changes from Chris' original kit too, and Amati wanted those incorporated in the new manuals. Those manuals (yes, plural!) will contain (tentatively) around 1500 build photos, and be perfect-bound, glossy productions. I've already broken down Chris' construction into a multitude of chapters, with each depicting a specific sequence/task. For example, there will be a chapter for building each size of gun, each of the launches, the stove, first planking, but also for fitting out whole decks. For this build, I will use the existing manuals that Chris made when he finished his kit. Since Chris designed the model, Amati's laser manufacturer had changed the specs on sheet size that they could cut, so the sheet layouts needed to be rehashed for the new sizes. That was done earlier this year, but just when everything looked like it was going to plan (again), Italy, then the rest of the world, went into lockdown. So here we now are on the other side....just about. DHL delivered the HUGE box not long ago, and it is fantastically heavy! What is omitted at the moment are some first layer planks that they will ship when back in stock, and the cannon and figurehead. They won't be needed for a long time. They are also waiting on the copper PE, but I do have all the sheets of brass PE here. So, we have bags of laser-cut material (MDF, ply, timber), sleeves of strip (lots of them!), bags of PE and a whole bag of various fittings. I already have the thirty-one sheets of plans. Remember, this isn't a review, but just a build log. I cant review something like this which isn't quite complete. That's not the purpose. Inside the box, all the laser cut parts were bagged into two thick poly sleeves. These packs were of course the real weight behind this delivery. I'll open them later to look through them but I've included a few images they sent me of the parts before they shipped out. The sheer quantity of strip and dowel in this model is bewildering. The only time I've seen as much as this is when I've been in a hobby shop! Fittings. Usually Amati pack these into trays, but for this purpose, all the stuff is in little bags and sleeves and bundled into this substantial bag. You name it, and it's in here... Photo etch: Here's all the brass sheet stuff. I am waiting on the copper parts yet, but thought you'd like to see these. As I've been promising this kit arriving for a long time, I felt the need to stick my flag in the ground and start a build log showing the stuff that I now have. I won't be actually starting this until after 3rd August as I'll be away, plus I also have a project I need to take care of before that (written article, not a build). So....there we have it!!! **Apologies for phone camera pics too. The build will be done like my typical studio photos** -
Hello all. I've been a member of this forum for many years, but have never posted a build log before. I'm a little late to the party here, as I started this build over 11 years ago. I actually took a few years off in the middle, and am now in the final laps of this journey. I had made two previous models, and this time I wanted one that had a lot of detail, and was authentic, so I decided on Caldercraft's Victory. It was, in retrospect, a good choice, because there are tons of sites and photos of the actual ship available on the net for research. At this point I have put in a little over 4300 hours in the build, not to mention the hundreds of hours spent in research, making spreadsheets etc. I'm posting here a few pix of the current state of the build, perhaps later I can add some earlier shots as well. I apologize for the quality of some of the photos, as the light in the workshop is pretty poor, and I don't spend a lot of time trying to make them look pretty - they are more for documentation's sake. My build process is a little unorthodox, I guess, at least for the rigging part of it. From prior experience I have learned that fragile pieces sticking out are disasters waiting to happen. Therefore my masting/rigging process went something like this. (Note that all masts and spars have been previously built and have the blocks, etc attached). Install all three lower masts with tops in place and the bowsprit, then add lower shrouds and bobstays. Rattle down all lower shrouds, then add futtock shrouds. Next step is to add all topmasts and the jibboom, then install the topmast shrouds and rattle them down. So, these pix show that the topgallant masts and the flying jibboom are still uninstalled. At some point in the build I had to decide whether or not I wanted to add sails. I was generally disappointed in other sails that I have seen in that the stitching that is supposed to represent the sail seams was way out of scale and was way too apparent and obvious. I spent a fair amount of time developing a procedure for making what I think are more realistic sails, I am happy with them, so I am going for a full suit of sails for her. I also had to make a decision on how to display the model, and after much thought decided to depict Victory as she made her turn to port in her run to break the Combined Fleet's line. Her courses would have been clued up to avoid catching fire from the weather deck's muzzle blasts, and she would have been sailing in a light wind on a port tack. Getting the sails right to suggest this scenario is my current challenge, and I am wrestling with getting the fore course to look right. Presently 3 of the 4 head sails, along with the spritsail and sprit topsail, as well as the fore topsail are in place. After I get the fore course to look right, I will go on to the main course and topsail, followed by the main staysails. Then on to the mizzen - driver and topsail, then the mizzen staysails. The final step will be shipping the topgallant masts and flying jibboom and their sails. Enough for now; I'll add some more pix later on. Thanks for looking -
This is my first build log. I was hesitant to post as this is only my second build, and I am not experienced as a wooden ship modeler, but I thought that I could add some information about the DeAgostini version of this popular model. First some general pros and cons: The best thing is the extent and quality of the instructions - 575 pages of very detailed text and photos, backed up with 63 build videos on YouTube. Even as a novice builder (I have only done the Occre Polaris before this), I have found all the work manageable based on the depth of instructions. I can't comment of the historical accuracy of this kit or relate it to other Victory models. I chose to order the kit in 12 installments, and it is worth your while to check each package thoroughly for parts - 7 of the 10 kits were missing parts. To be fair, they do have a 1-800 number where the reported missing parts were always replaced no charge, but as parts were sent from the UK to their North America office where I purchased the kit from, a delay of 3-4 weeks was common. I have spent the past 10 months working on the kit, so I will post with dates as I progressed until where I am today. On to the build itself. August 2020 Initial parts were nicely packaged, but they soon lost interest in that and sent parts in plastic bags. Most plywood parts were fine, but one bow structure was warped. I used a steam iron on high with some damp towels to flatten the part and pressed it with weights for several days which solved the problem. Later I read about plywood delamination issues - luckily I didn't know about that possibility before I started the process! Parts were cleanly cut with minimal charring, and the early stages were certainly the most satisfying, as assembling the keel and ribs went very quickly. The next steps (perhaps intended to break up the stages of the build) was a mini build in itself constructing one of Victory's launches, which was challenging on its own. A jig was provided to attach the frames to, and then after fairing the frames, a single layer of thin planking was done. After that the usual filling and gentle sanding and then the boat is cut out of the jig and painting started. Duckboards, oars, a windlass, rudder, seats and mast were then prepared and the launch is done to be put aside until the end of the build. I'll continue to post more of the build next time. Thanks for reading - I know that there are lots of mistakes in the build as I am learning as I go! -
Late summer 1805, the sun is burning inexorably from above, the wind is completely asleep, the sea is smooth as glass. The dispatches have already been exchanged. The master of the small cutter has just returned to his tiny vessel. Behind it there is towering the enormously massiv silhouette of the huge black and ocher striped three decker. Through the open gunports the lashed up guns can be seen. Also the officers' cabins ports are wide opened by the order of the Captain's to ensure an optimal ventilation of the hot and steamy lower decks. Clatter of activity on some guns being ran out cuts through the silence. The rumble of the heavy guns rolling over the decks and the trampling of countless bare feet and the short shouted commands supported by a multitude of hand signs originate from the ordered gundrill for new gun crews and their officers. In competition between the three decks they are fighting for the fastest rate of firing. The rest of the ships crew is occupied with cleaning and mending duties. The holystone are scratching on the decks. Above all the sails hang slack in their yards. No breath of wind moves them. They are nestled heavily over stays and fighting tops. The captain took advantage of the hot calm to put up all the canvas possible for airing. One of the studdingsails is taken in, the spar tied up with its inner end against the shrouds, in order to mend something on its fittings. Sitting on a swing seat pendent from the fore top, a crew member just is finishing painting over with ocher the originally black coloured mast loops. On the poop Captain Hardy monitors the young cadets´ training in navigation, supported by Lord Nelson, who uses the opportunity to entertain the cadets with stories of his actions and the ideas of his tactical concepts. But in the back of everybodys mind there is just one question - When will there be wind again ... -
The VICTORY’s keel was laid down in my shipyard at the end of 2011. This is the third ship released in installments by the magazine. That is why I started building without knowing what I was setting myself in for. Having already assembled the hull, it was evident that the ship would be large and heavy and complicated to build. About the time I completed the first layer of planking to the gunports - I put it aside to complete first simpler models. This interruption lasted 3.5 years until January of 2017. I began work on it again and this time took it firmly in hand, without distractions until completion in June of 2017, the last steps being the flags and glass cover. It took me 4.5 full years to complete the model.- 11 replies
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Hallo liebe Community, nachdem ich dieses Forum schon eine ganze Zeit beobachte, habe ich mich entschlossen, nun auch meine Victory vorzustellen. Ich bin noch ziemlich neu in diesem Hobby und habe mir mit der Victory von Caldercraft einen ziemlichen Brocken vorgenommen. Ich habe zwar bereits an einem kleineren Modell geübt, allerdings waren meine Gedanken immer bei dem Caldercraft-Bausatz. Im Dezember 2013 habe ich ihn mir nun gekauft, damit die liebe Seele Ruhe hat. Warum die Victory - ein Schiff, dass bereits 1000 x gebaut wurde? Und das von Menschen, die mehr davon verstehen, als ich. Ganz einfach: ich finde sie schön. Und es gibt jede Menge Fotos - teils vom Original, teils von anderen Modellbauern. Ich habe weder den Anspruch, sie in Museumsqualität zu bauen, noch dem Original in allen Details historisch einwandfrei zu entsprechen. Hierzu fehlen mir die handwerklichen Fähigkeiten, die professionellen Werkzeuge und das Wissen. Ich will sie so gut wie möglich bauen. Und wenn ich auf Fotos und/oder im Internet auf Details stoße, die ich mir handwerklich zutraue, dann werde ich versuchen, es im Rahmen meiner Möglichkeiten umzuseten. Ich freue mich auf eure Anregungen und Tipps. Und los gehts mit dem Rumpf... Moderator translation via Google Translator Hello dear community, after I been watching this forum for quite some time, I decided, now imagine my Victory. I'm still pretty new to this hobby and have made up my mind with the Victory by Caldercraft quite a chunk. Although I have already practiced on a smaller model, but my thoughts were always with the Caldercraft kit. In December 2013 I have now bought it to me so dear soul rest. Why the Victory - a ship that already 1000 x built? And this from people who know more about it than I do. It's simple: I find them beautiful. And there are lots of photos - some from the original, partly from other modelers. I have neither the claim, they build in museum quality, yet the original suit historically accurate in every detail. To this end, I lack the technical skills, professional tools and knowledge. I want as much as possible build. And if I come across photographs and / or the Internet to details that I trust my craft, I will try it umzuseten within my means. I look forward to your suggestions and tips. And there you go with the hull ... -
Here some photo's of my progress thusfar. I started this kit due to the book Batavia by Peter Fitzsimons. My wife had started it, but has stopped the project. She was not patient enough to continue. All the flash on this kit and the fit of the parts discouraged her. So after reding the book I had the urge to build a sailing ship. The only choise I had was this one. So I disassembled all my wife had assembled and started the kit all over. I have made some progress after the steps you see on the photo's, but haven't made pictures of it yet. This is my first ship build, but I hope you all like it. On this moment I'm in the middle of a move, so the coming weeks I will be working on that. But I hope to continue this build very soon.- 9 replies
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hi guys and gals, after many many to many years of following i have decided to post a build log. i bought this kit in 2006 along with the snake and diana. i finished the diana last fall and started the victory in march after completing the duke william. to date i have lower gundeck, dummy barrel strips, stem, keelson and frames attached to the keel. i am working on beveling bow and stern frames. as soon as i figure out how to post some pictures i will and once i do please feel free to comment on any and everything you wish. thanks, mort -
First ever model ship so here goes -
Finally! After 2 years, I have enough time to start a new kit! I still consider myself new to this hobby so I will be looking up a lot of info while building! I know this kit will take me a long while to make, but I will do my best to post on a regular basis! I will be reading the instructions and other guides and tips before I start. I noticed that the keel isn't completely straight. I wonder if there is a way to help straighten it. Lastly, I noticed that there are a lot of posts here about a building board and a keel clamp. How important are these? Hmm time for some research! - Jeff -
Welcome to my new build log of the HMS Victory. This journey has a special meaning for me. All my life I wanted to build a ship. Not just any ship, but a highly detailed model, but as with most things life gets in the way. I built many models as a kid and teenager, but nothing like this. I grew up, went to school, got a degree in electronics, then became an engineer, worked at many trades, became a master machinist, a tool and die maker, traveled the US, Canada, and Mexico as an engineer for a CNC machine tool manufacturer. My lifelong hobby was wood working. I retired at age 48 due to medical issues. Now, at 68, I am working on goals on my bucket list. I desire to build this ship while I still can. I don't know what time is left .... one year .... 5 ... 20, it's unsure, but I have life threatening issues along with other issues. Enough about me, now let's build a ship. I recieved the Mantua Sergal 782 kit of the HMS Victory this morning. This was not the kit I wanted. I wanted the Billings Boats kit, but due to the difficult times now with this virus they are closed temporarily and my order could not be filled. The distributor was very helpful in getting this kit to me as a substitute. My reason for wanting the Billings was it provided the basics at a good price and I could replace the lesser quality parts with aftermarket and make the ship better detailed. I will be doing the same thing with this kit. I did have to pay an extra $72 for this kit. The Billings was $397. I have been studying McKay's book , The 100 Gun Ship, and finding sources for upgrades while waiting 2 months for the kit to arrive. I figure another $300 in aftermarket pieces will accomplish my goal, still being less than the Caldercraft kit.. and hopefully better. Mark Frazier -
This is a commision I undertook for a good friend last year. We had a correspondence through Facebook, whether it was possible to turn his Victory Kit, which was still unopened into a 74. Several ideas and plans were put into consideration. The ship would have no sails or masts, and it would be a kind of "Admirality" type, just the hull sitting on a base resembling a launching cradle. With the exception of the Heller's Superebe and Glorieux, there are no other 74 on the kit market, certainly no british, and seems nobody had done something like that either. The plan was as follows: Rezze Victory by one deck, which was rather troublesome, especially because the bow and rails had to be remodeled. Increase the width of the decks, as they now sit one lower into the tumblehome. Remodel the quarter deck. Remove some gunports, turn the entrance into a gunport and reduce with width of the side ladders. I made it in a relatively good time, and he was very pleased. Here is the built log, I'll slowly updload them all today and tomorow, as I have to work on the bomb ketch as well! Here is the planing, in MS paint: -
I had a build log on the now apparently defunct "HMS Victory Modeller's Knowledge Repository..." by Pete Coleman, but all this is gone now. I thought I'd just show a handful of progress shots, and the completed project. I never could have built her like she came out without that web site; it's a shame about it. For any readers contemplating a build, know that there are now available seven sheets of brass etch to enhance the kit. Everything from accurate shroud chains to nice stanchions to trigger locks for the cannon. They are superlative, although I only ordered two as this was my first model in decades and I had never seen brass etch to that point in time. You can find the brass etch here: http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en#anker2 Never served thread before. After reading about serving machines I made one out of my old meccano. Here are the first served shrouds around the foremast head. The deadeye strops are brass etch. I later changed the jeer block lashings to natural colour, just to make them jump. I bought this kit in the early 80's. The decals crumbled to bits when I wet them, so I ordered adhesive vinyl lettering for the figurehead. I painted the false panels blue instead of black because I liked the look with all the other blue trim. The brass etch binnacle, with (barely visible) lantern and compasses. Home-made post and rails at the poop deck ladders. Syren 2mm blocks on the cannon tackle. Larger brass rod belaying pins so my big clumsy hands could tie off to them. Notice the brass etch boarding pikes on the mainmast. Hammock netting from HobbyLobby, on brass etch stanchions. Added brass handrails down the main companionway ladder. First look at masts plunked in dry assembled. Looking like a ship! Lower shrouds complete. Psychedelic mizzen ratline guide from cereal box. Why not the blank side, you ask? I have no idea now. Home-made topsail yard parral. Nearly there! Decided to rig bowlines too, hitched to yards. Stream anchor lashed to port sheet anchor. Also made anchor buoys, lashed to foremast shrouds. Copied Blue Ensign's idea to make little Lord Nelson and Captain Hardy figures. Faces aren't very good but ok to naked eye. Had a cast acrylic case made for her, atop a cherry cabinet I made for the purpose. Sat three of the boats on the shelf to allow viewer to see down to the upper deck through the skid beams, but really you cannot see even the cannon rigging on quarterdeck. At least my eyes cannot. Print hung above is Geoff Hunt's "England Expects", depicting "Victory" among the British fleet approaching the combined fleet on the morning of Trafalgar.- 18 replies
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