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  1. This is part One. Part Two deals with her retrieval and preservation. Steven
  2. Hello Everyone. This is my second ship build (first build log), which I made the aggressive decision to build the Wasa by Billing Boats. This is unquestionably beyond my skill level, especially considering I did not to much in the way of research prior to beginning, and even during the majority of the building process. Personally, it is more fun for me to stumble through the project to learn vs doing a large amount of research before each step. This has made it more "fun", but also more difficult as I have made a LOT of mistakes throughout the build, which made it more difficult later in the build. Notes: I do know that this boat was red, however I fell in love with the blue on shown in the Billings Boat site (in the google link of more images). Also, I did not expect to share all of these build images so the background is usually very messy! Lastly, Since I did not expect to share the entire build log online, I completely understand every mistake I made, and will attempt to highlight everyone that I can think of. Starting the build: This build was a lot harder right from the start. The keel of the ship is 4 pieces, which 2 needs to be cut to length. What makes this difficult is the bulkheads don't have specific slots and each needs to be measured to fit correctly. What makes this even harder is that the bulkheads need to stand up 90 degrees from the keel being up ~20 degrees. I honestly feel like Billings Boat does this to try and get you to buy their specific tools. . I approached this by gluing the keel together, then measuring the bulkheads along the keel and marking each one. From there, I dry fitted everything together, and used the deck (which is notched) to make sure they all fit. Then I glued the bulkheads into place, then placed the deck back on to hold them into the correct positions. Sadly, I didn't realize that the bulkhead 10 (I believe) shifted at the keel, which later made the hull not uniform in the bend. This was the 4th bulkhead from the front. Once that was done. I proceeded to glue the deck into place, along with the stringers under the main deck. From there, I lined up the aft decks, and glued them into place as well. After that, I began working on a few different parts. Sometimes when I get annoyed with doing 1 part in particular I start another to keep myself interested, and keep up on the progress. Once I made enough progress on the deck, I decided (which was a very bad decision), to stain the upper deck with Mahogany, which was what the manual suggested. Sadly this turned out WAY darker than I wanted for the deck, so I immediately regretted my decision to not test it out before. This was just a stupid mistake on my part as I should have taken my time with it! This stain ended up setting me back a bit as I was very unhappy with just how dark the stain turned out. So I made the decision to remove all the upper decking, and start over on the upper deck. As you can see. I also started working on preparing for the bulwarks, however more sanding was still needed at this point to get the right curve. I also applied some stain to the deck to make sure I was happy with it this time (I did also test it before this time! ). The stain I ended up going with for the majority of the build is Golden Oak. From there, I finished the main decking. After that, I proceeded to plank the aft decks, then stain it all including the keel, and bulwarks. Once I had finished sanding down the sides, I proceeded to fit and glue the bulwarks into place. This is where I made another (of many!) mistake. I measured incorrectly, and ended up pushing the front of the bulwarks down ~1cm which caused issues for me later on (as always). I removed and re-added the stern piece (blue) probably 5 times as the process Billings wanted was to use clear plastic, with drawn lines on it. Sadly, this smudged off unless I used a marker, which looked bad. I ended up picking up some leather "string" for bracelet crafts, then gluing that into position, which turned out much better. After that, I began planking the stern, which again I made another mistake on. I only realized after I was almost completely done that I used a ~45 degree angle. This is something that made me regret not doing more checking before proceeding, but something that outside of this site, no one will notice. During this time, I also spent some time working on the bulwarks reinforcements, which just took forever! I then began to do some more work on the stern of the ship. I sadly noticed that the stain did not adhere as uniformly as I wanted, which is likely caused by some glue bleeding through and me not sanding it off enough. This is something I struggled with throughout the entire build. From there, I began planking the hull. I used multiple pictures of other people's BB Wasa hulls to get started with this. The start was easy, but it got VERY difficult as I reached the keel. Consider my process here a guide on how NOT to plank a boat. Don't do what I did here! haha As I approached the bottom of the keel, things got more and more frustrating! Lack of research really burned me here! I tried to keep the wood from twisting, which turned into multiple tapers for me to avoid twisting the wood. Also, BB did not supply enough wood for ANY mistakes in this process, so I quickly ran out of the Obechi wood supplied. This was honestly the hardest part of the building process, and I can understand people giving up here. This is where I most felt that I had bit off more than I can chew, and wasn't sure if I was going to be able to figure out how to get this done. More research would have helped for sure, but the lack of wood didn't allow me to start over without replacing all the Obechi. I ended up getting an uncle to cut small pine pieces which I used the complete the bottom section. I knew this would be okay to change the wood here as it was below the waterline, which I was planning on painting grey anyways. You can see here that the 4th bulkhead appears to flex inwards a bit as the bulkhead shifted a tiny bit when I glued it. It isnt something that I noticed until it was too late to fix, and It was something I was hoping would not be noticeable by anyone! At the time, I had no intention of sharing the build online where people would know better and spot this mistake. I finally completed the planking, which was a huge win considering how much I stumbled through the process! Then a lot of sanding was needed. Again early mistakes making it harder on me after! From here, I stained the entire hull and began painting and gluing on some of the stern decorations. I also began working on the wood pieces that line the outside of the hull. These I measured using a caliper from the bulwarks downwards. Which....ended up being a big mistake as I didnt realized until after these hull liners where glued into place that my bulwarks were about 1 CM to low on the front of the ship. If you look carefully, you will notice that the front of the ship is lower than it should be, which sadly ruins the curve on the side of the boat. Again this is something that I was too late to fix, and wasn't sure if anyone would actually notice this. This also removed enough space at the bottom to place my last wood liner. I wasn't able to glue it on without a significant twist to the wood as the front is too low for the 8th one down. After that, I then proceeded to prime and pain the waterline on the boat. This was a little tricky to get a fairly straight line. I ended up using a laser level and about 1 full roll of painters tape to get a line I was happy with. The primer looked way worse than the actual grey paint, but it was still something I was unhappy with as all I could see was the gaps between the hull planking. If I had done a better job on planking, this likely wouldn't have been a problem. After about a week or so of being unhappy with the finish, I got mad and proceeded to bondo the entire bottom of the waterline. once bondoed, I sanded it all back down then re-primed and painted it. This wasn't perfect, but it turned out WAY better and I was much happier with the results of the bondo. Once that part of the hull was done, I started making some good progress on the bow. This part was very fun as it was easy, and added a lot of detail to the boat. The next step I began to tackle was the upper sides of the hull. These went well however I did notice after that I didn't get the proper angle of this wood, and also made another mistake to cause problems later. (I didnt space out this wood enough, which means I ran out earlier than I was supposed to). As well as that, I also measured out all of the gun ports, glued the outside plastic squares (no idea what those would be called) on, and pained the inside of the ports black. This is again where the curve of the boat is obviously too low at the front. This is one of my biggest mistakes throughout the build, however I do take some comfort knowing that anyone so far who has seen it hasn't noticed (meanwhile it is all I see!). I will post further parts of my journey another day. I am not done, but I am a fair bit further than this post has got to.
  3. Hello all Ever since I was a child and start modelling I have the dream to someday build the Swedish warship Vasa in wood. Early attempts were the Airfix plastic Vasa and the not so good Igra Vasa (See this link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/14339-help-to-identify-vasa-kit/ ). Non of them were finished and the Airfix Vasa exploded by a fire cracker if I remember right and the Igra kit was actually never started. My wooden kit building started when I was working in Russia some years ago. In a very boring moment I actually ordered the Billing Boat Vasa but when I come home it ended up at the shelf since I realised it was totally over the top for me at the moment. So I bought and build the J-Class Endeavour instead just to learn (link in my signature). This build really got me hooked and I started on Sherbourne (other link in signature) to learn building period ships. It was then it come, the DeAgostini Vasa as a Monthly subscription. At the beginning I hesitated since no finish models exist but after following Puckotreds Vasa ( http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/13616-vasa-by-puckotred-deagostini-scale-165/ ) I was convinced. I haven't started it until now since I was waiting for all the parts for the false keel. However I have start the build now and I will post the photos below to show how far I have come. I also must say that the quality so far, especially the figures is very good. I hop you will enjoy the build and have patience since it take 3 years to get all the parts. I will also not post a photo over every delivering since Mr Pucko does that. The wooden parts I have so far. And the figures. This is Billing Boats stand for building. Little bit modified... This was what I was waiting for. To be able to glue togheter the false keel part and get it straight. Some initial sanding just in case Mounted on the building stand..... .......and test fitted with the Sherbourne Inside (same scale more or less) First painting of figures. I will redone this since I have learned that a black gloss coat as primer is way better for the metal look of AK extreme metal. I will show the difference later. Too bad that I will remove the colour and repaint it. But it shows the detail of the metal parts. And now the building starts (2 days ago). Lego Duplo is so good to use for framing The result from the side...... .....and from the front. Really nice fit of everything. And this photo is from yesterday. The fit is perfect. And this is how far I have got at the moment. Best Regards Jörgen
  4. Ahoy! from Snug Harbor Johnny, this is my first build log but not my first build. All (but one) of the models I constructed (ships, planes, rockets in wood, paper or plastic) growing up in the 60s & 70s did not (alas) survive transitioning to adulthood, and my adult non-work activities ranged through a wide variety of Colonial crafts demoed in public with my wife - who got me into 're-enacting' time periods ranging from Renaissance to Edwardian ... but mostly of the 18th & 19th century. Now in semi-retirement, I want to more-or-less finish the old first-issue Billings Wasa that works out (as best as I can compare the model to the original) to about 1:105 scale. The information on the newly-raised warship was in the early stages in those days, so I don't fault the kit for making some assumptions to 'fill in blanks' (which there were a few then) - perhaps influenced by a contemporary model of another Wasa built in the late 18th c. (A 17th c ivory model of the Norwegian Lion - a near contemporary warship to the first Wasa comes much closer to the mark, and could be a 'twin' ... but that's another story.) Here is the aging plan (separated down the middle and slightly misaligned) from Billings, which shows the ship having an 18th c windowed stern cupola, the stern not as high as now known, a forecastle deck and a figure head not as jutting as later restored to the original in a Stockholm museum. In fact, the state of restoration and knowledge of the original (and pictures available on line and in books) is astounding - so I'd like to do at least some 'surgery' to make my model come reasonably close to the original. It will by no means by 'museum quality' or 'dead-on' accurate, but still should be recognized by knowledgable modelers as the Wasa. I anticipate that the effort to undo the forecastle deck (forced by the internal bulkheads in the kit at that time) may not be worth the effort. Or I could be wrong about this and with a little guidance I might chance to undertake it. Ah yes, note the hank of full-sized jute rope in the upper left of the picture, which I made myself on a real rope walk that is one of the crafts I demonstrate at historic houses and fairs. (Other crafts have included book binding, candle dipping /molding, colonial gun making, harpsichord playing - on one of three I built myself - and dancing, of all things ... I was strongly encouraged by my wife to help her start an historic dance group.) So I mat yet build a mini-rope walk for making my own scale rope for ship models. Well, there's the hull - untouched for decades - that was single-planked, and has a slight 'bulge' from the middle bulkhead being just a tad fat as supplied (and can be seen on other vintage build of this kit not corrected by fairing) ... and I did not appreciate the finer points of fairing in those days. I drilled little holes and filled then with round toothpicks to simulate wood pegging (tree nails ?). The modeled rings around the gun ports of the weather deck were done as follows: I modeled one in clay on a piece of glass, then painted successive layers of latex gunk (drying thoroughly between coats) to produce a one-sided rubber mold, which I peeled off the glass and cleaned out. Modeling plaster over the back of the latex mold to support the flimsy latex and then multiple 'copies' of the gunport rings could be made from hard dental plastering the mold - taken out when cured. I did the same for little lion's head for the inside of the gun ports (yet to be made.) More on those gunport later. Here's the stern, and the 'carvings' were modeled as described above - except that due to the complexity, I just slathered wood putty into the mold and slapped it onto the back to set. After all, it will all be painted anyway. But the arrangement of the carvings and size of the stern were what was thought by Billings around 1970. I plan to cut of the top below the feet of the lions and move that piece upward to raise the stern to where it needs to be - as well as correct the relationship to the pair of cupids below ... and many more figures need to be added - another challenge. Now for those gun ports. After cutting them (many are not quite square) I glued false 'decking' below each line of ports to support gun carriages and pieces of wooden dowel I drilled-out so that the 'half-cannons' supplied in the kit would fit into them. I also 'lined' the gun ports with small pieces of wood for a better look. Yeah, I know now that the plank widths are out of scale - they should be half the width - and the pegs are way out of scale ... they are what they are, and they really look OK on the model to the casual observer. Now you can see the 'stanchions' (extensions of the kit bulkheads are fat, but they can be trimmed and additional false stations added. There needs to be a third level in the stern, and raining the stern will provide space for that - but it will won't be exactly like to original ... just closer. I'll have to make the 'coffin-like' doored companionways as well. And there's the darned forecastle deck - most warships (at least drawings of them) before and after do have it this way, and perhaps I'll leave it but add a bulwark plus railing. There would be a lot of nasty cutting to get rid of it, and the deck would definitely show a surgical 'scar'. Under where each mast is to go I've already glued a large block of wood to drill a hole into for the mast. Do I try and mess with it, or just leave it alone? Here are some of the kit fittings. The full cannons leave much to be desired, but the ports on the weather deck already align to the carriages as-is. I can carefully belt sand some off the underside and glue 'wheels' on the outside so there will appear to be a little space underneath the carriage. Yeah, the blocks an deadeyes are plastic - but I bought a bunch of wooden ones to use instead. I'll have to make triangular deadeyes for the shrouds. Those bits in the plastic box are little lion heads cast from a latex mold - a few are flipped over to the flat reverse. Now here's a view with the 'half-cannons' installed, and they look OK - a whole lot better than just painting a black square and drilling a small hole to stick the half-barrels in as the kit suggested. Decals were provided for the lion heads for the open gun ports, and the ones I make with 3-D gold painted lion heads will be a definite improvement ... but I might glue the lids open against the hull. I'm trying to imagine the trouble of trying to fashion hinges that will be covered-up anyway, since almost all will be open. Plenty of guns, yeah, I'm all for that ... maybe its a 'guy' thing to build a warship bristling with cannon (a compensation or wishful thinking?) Here's a close-up of the guns, and they have a natural patina from just sitting around for so long. I know I have a great 'head start' (after a long hiatus) to build on what I have and end-up with a pretty good model. I'm NOT aiming for 'perfection' - 'good enough' is good enough for me. I don't want to put sails on - in fact, I'm considering to build it to the restored state of the original in Stockholm that has the first sections of the masts in place and shrouds/ratlines on them. That would be like some sort of Admiralty or dockyard model - plus the lower masts instead of cut-off (or serrated) 'stubs'. Or I could just do the masts and yards complete with standing rigging. That way the sails and scads of running rigging won't be needed. The third option would be to have just the few sails set that were actually used on the disastrous 'maiden voyage' ... most of the sails were found still in storage when the ship was salvaged. Your comments/suggestions are welcome. Fair sailing! Johnny
  5. I am very glad to have found this website with, luckily for me, many build logs on the Wasa from Corel. I will use many of the tips and pictures posted in these logs for my guidance and as a example of what gifted modelbuilders can achieve. I have bought a 'used' model of the Wasa about a year ago for a low price. It was in a very bad shape and the modelbuilder (not the person from which I have bought the model) did some things really well, but other parts were absolutely desastrous. Also it had suffered from neglect and the masts were broken off. When I saw the model as it was at the time it became clear to me that I first had to do a lot of demolishing and then try to rebuild parts of it. Most notably was the bow section as it appeared that the previous builder had had problems with bending the wooden strips for planking that part of the hull. First some pictures of the model as it was 'before restoration':
  6. Hello everyone, So I have been able to receive a wonderful opportunity of continuing to a beautiful ship. The Wasa by Billing Boats. It's quite an old kit but we'll preserved and treated with much love. Right now I get to show it off and I want to try and do the best I can for this build. I will for sure take my time and really dedicate the proper time and effort into this to do my best and look for help as I travel this journey. this is some pictures of the plans and also came with it's instruction manual that is in good condition as well. this is everything that came in. I am excited to see how painting on all the plastic comes out because I haven't done that so I am going to need some advice on this for sure. I need to check up on all of these measurements because I feel the strakes are too long and my first starting point I decided is going to be finishing the construction of the base part of the Hull and making a good solid stand to hold the hull as I work. Hopefully you guys can join me and I hope to get some help because I am sure going to need it!!
  7. Well here we go, with my first log. The Wasa. It looks quite challenging but extremely interesting to build. The history of the ship is fascinating, and one day I will visit the WASA Museum in Stockholm. The attached file is just the beginning, with the layout, and the review of the drawings. I will keep you posted on the progress with as many pictures as I can spare the time for. Looking forward to talking to you all and those in particular building the same boat. JM
  8. Opened my next build! The Airfix 1/144 Wasa. I find the history of this ship to be fascinating. This will be the smallest scale I have tried. Looking to really hone my skills and techniques on very small features, especially painting the stern. Pictures I have seen show it to be beautiful and I hope mine will reach that level when complete. I checked the MSW index and only see one build of this Airfix kit and that is by kpnuts. Fantastic job! I really like the ocean effects and the displaying of the ship lesning over before it eventually sank. Numerous other builds of other kit manufacturers. Will read through several before starting mine. One thing I have already determined is that is debate over if the stern end of the ship was primarily red or blue. The kit shows it as being painted red but several builders an articles I have read say it was actually blue. Will need to make my first education decision right off the bat. If there are any MSW members currently building, or previously built, any version of the Wasa please share any advice or suggestions you may have. I thoroughly enjoy this site and sharing with other builders.
  9. Hello MSW. I'm Doug, a first-time plank-on-frame builder in the USA. I've built many models over the years, mostly many years ago, and one kit from Denmark's Billing Boats (Jacques Cousteau's CALYPSO), but VASA is my first attempt at a wooden sailing ship kit. As a kid, I pored over books of historic sailing ships, as I'm sure many of you did, and the VASA was often featured in their pages. In 2016, I had the opportunity to visit the ship at its museum in Sweden, and the impressiveness of the ship and its preservation stuck with me. Fast-forward to 2020, and as a quarantine project, I decided to try my hand at the kit you see here. I'll try to document my progress as best I can while reflecting on my many mistakes (several so far). One lesson I've already learned: if you're not happy with something, and it can be fixed without destroying the model, take the time to fix it, even if there's short-term pain. Off we go.
  10. My new one commissioned by my boss, the Airfix Wasa, I bought it off ebay and I've no idea how it was stored but its warped to hell, its been a real pig to get it together, didn't do it as per instructions as i could not get the deck atattched and level so glued the hull front together then when the glue set glued the rear the glued the deck a bit at a time using loads of masking tape to hold it till dry. Broke lots of these bits on the top rails (whatever they are) so will have to make some new ones.
  11. I am very happy to have found MSW and to get the energy and inspiration to build this ship. Thanks to fmodajr and md1400cs. The WASA ship section below (unknown fabricator - prob. Billing boats) - was built in the early 90s and I mostly remember the tedious work cutting all pieces by hand (not laser cut) from wood panels. It took two years to build the main part and then another 4-5 years until the rigging was finished. Most of the time the build was put away waiting for me building up confidence to finish the model. This time I had the opportunity to have a dedicated work space, were the model could rest when no work was being done, and laser cut pieces. I though replaced the keel with a solid wood bit due to poor quality plywood. I had read that the foundation was a key to get the hull planking go easy. I tried to follow the instructions but later I found the book by Björn Landström "The Royal Warship VASA" from 1980 (ISBN 91-86448-12-9) and I ended up with some "creative" planking pattern compared with the images in this book. I was very close to mix two of the mid pieces before cluing them on the keel.
  12. Just had a major 7 week vacation through Europe and arrived home to find the first of 12 packs from England for the Vasa kit. I saw the original Vasa in Sweden in 2012 and always wished I could get this ship for my collection and to my surprise England has the kit and allowed us guys down under to purchase direct. I am exited to see the parts are of the same high standard as the Souvereign of the Seas I finshed early this year. photo’s will follow when i commence serious construction
  13. Hi, My name is Peter, and I live in the snow country of south-east Australia (yes we do have snow in parts of Australia during winter!!!). About 12 months ago, following an inspirational cruise in the Baltic Sea and a visit to the Vasamuseet in Stockholm, I commenced building the Billing Boat's Vasa. This is the second large Billing Boat I have constructed, the first being the Cutty Sark, almost 40 years ago. This model is proudly displayed in a glass case in our home and has been a talking point and feature most of my life. Hopefully, while I now have more time, the Vasa will be the same. I have read many of the build logs regarding the Vasa by Nazgul, Marketdiens, fmodajr, md1400cs, mar3kl, Karleop and others. These builds are a mix of Corel, Sergal/Mantua, Billing and more recently the De Agostini release from Italy. Prior the DeAgostini model (by ModelSpace), a number of writers commented that they felt the Billing Boat's Vasa was the most accurate, and it was available before the DeAgostini model release, and so my choice was the Billing Boats kit. Having now progressed through this build, overall I am reasonably happy with the content of materials (although I have substituted some timbers), and scratched a number of items (eg below decks cannon mounts etc). The instructions are limited and short on detail, but the build logs have subsequently helped and filled in some of the 'gaps'. In particular, the exquisite build of Matti (Nazgul) has been wonderful, but many of the ideas of Mark (mar3kl), I have also adopted. So, to begin, the packaging and delivered product was complete with no obvious broken parts or missing items, but these would be picked up as I went along in the build. One thing that I did notice however was that hull planking used timber referred to as 'Obechi'. While this was all included, I did not like its scaled width or thickness, and so I did some maths to scale the planking of the actual ship pictures I had, and then purchased some 5 x 1 mm mahogany in precut strips. This to me, was a much better planking material, and better for the scaling appearance of the ship. A similar argument held for the deck planking and so I milled some of the mahogany to use for this as well. Different stain/treatments were also used to maintain reasonable appearance and weathering effects. Bulkhead layout was straightforward but the bulkhead extensions above deck (which were instructed to be 'thinned') were weak and fragile. Some of these broke in the process of the build, especially with the deck plywood fitting and so I trimmed these and added extensions later when the planking was built up above the deck level. The decking base needed some trimming but this was minimal and fitted satisfactorily. Before any comments are made about the Smirnoff bottles in the background, these are holding raw alcohol which I intend to use in assisting the bending of planks. This is to be an experiment, but I have read where it is more effective than water and/or steam bending. More on this later!!
  14. To all WASA Billings builders. Just planning ahead to finish off the planking on my build and have seen a number of nailed hulls (with a lot of nails). My kit does not supply nails in any number to complete a hull nailing task. (52 nails...whatever they are for ??) I can order the nails and lay them out on the hull.. time consuming but no problem really. some builds appear to have not used nails at all...... could always use pin holes then varnish which would appear to be nails..... I think... Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated from anyone... Thanks JM
  15. Click on the tags in the title above (shown in black) for an instant list of all the build logs for that kit subject.
  16. This is my build of the Deag Vasa . Having built the Corel offering I vowed never to build one again until I saw this one. The main thing that persuaded me as it has been designed with the help of the Vasa museum and Fred Hocker the museum director. It's not 100% accurate but as close as you can get with the restrictions of a commercial kit and a lot more historical accurate than anything out there I have downloaded the instructions from the build site and looking at them it's really impressive with hundreds of cast carvings and good quality wood. I have the first 6 issues and the quality looks first class with very crisp castings with very little mold lines and no flash. I have built two of the cannons and painted some of the decorations. I will be changeing a few things but really impressed. Martyn
  17. Hello everyone. I am posting 2 pics of my Corel. I want to get it right and then I will add more pics. This is my second build. I completed a Mantua Santa Maria many year ago. This Wasa has been a lot of fun. I have torn sections out and rebuilt them as I have been able to view so many photos of the real ship. The stern, for example is wrong in the Corel kit. OK let's see if my first pics posts.
  18. This is a work finished five years ago,For the first production, there will always be a bit of regret left. I hope it can be made up by the next construction
  19. I visited the VasaMuseet in August 2015 and was inspired to buy the Billing Boats kit while at the museum. It's the second model ship I've built, the first being the Billing Boat's Bounty about 10 years ago. I've been building and modifying the kit, and instead of writing another step by step build log that would duplicate very good material written by Nazgul, I decided to keep this build log fairly brief, featuring some of the things that I did that might help other "first time" builders. This first pic is of the keel, frames and decks. I used PVA glue to set the frames at right angles because I wanted time to make "tweaks" and get them exactly square. Cyano is great for some things, but sets too quickly and gives little opportunity for "tuning" the fit. The plywood decks were fixed with PVA. The upper section plywood "planking" pieces were fixed using Cyano and spray accelerator, starting at the stern and working towards the front a couple of frames at a time.
  20. Przepraszam za słaby angielski Vasa DeAgostini, skala 1:65, wydanie polskie. Obecnie pracuję nad etapem 50 - 55 kolekcji. Kilka zdjęć z historii budowy modelu.
  21. Hi here we go again I saw this Billings kit on E bay at what I thought was a very reasonable price but unfortunately it was an older kit with no fittings :o After an internet search nothing seemed to be available to buy so I thought I had bought some expensive firewood or paint stirrers On a whim I E mailed the seller to see if he had any bits he might have tucked away , he replied that he had a full Coral fittings kit that he would send me for free :) So the mongrel has started I didn't like the printed deck so I used some 1/16 ply as a false deck and then planked with Tanganika (I think) using Nigel's (NMBROOK) method of using black tissue paper to simulate caulking pace is a bit slow as time is at a premium at the moment any comments from any of the other Wasa builders here would be appreciated Andy
  22. here is the new build thats iam going to start i got this kit used for 300.00 cad i looked over the kit all of it is there this is the 50 anniversary kit that what thay say its comes with billing slip 397 with the kit poeple say not to use but its with the kit so not to sure what to do there here a pic
  23. Hello all. I will start posting photos of my Vasa build again. Please be patient. I have about 600 photos of my build already and I will select the most significant ones. General impression of the kit * This error had to be corrected. Slot too small for main mast. I used two glues here. Regular wood glue in the inner joints and then I ran a string of hot glue over the outside joints. Seems to have worked pretty well. Rig this piece BEFORE attaching the deck Building wooden doors: Spread glue on a business card or similar cardboard Cover it with round toothpicks, put some weight over them and wait to dry When dry, paint with black paint or ink, taking care to let paint go thoroughly between the toothpicks When the paint is dry, sand flat the toothpicks, which will leave a dark line between them
  24. Hi Everyone, I’m Frank from Massachusetts. I have been working on my Corel Wasa for about 2 years now. My parents visited the ship in Sweden 2 years ago and brought me back some books and plans of the ship. I selected the Corel kit for my build, and I have been so inspired by the fantastic work of other Wasa logs that I thought I would create my own log for your review. I will skip the pictures of the keel and framing photos and start in on the gun port construction and slowly build my log to where I am currently. (Just finishing the bow section!) Let me know your thoughts! I cut and enlarged the width of the gun port channels supplied with the kit, in order to accommodate the framing of the gunport openings. Then I made a full set of false gun carriages for the guns to sit on. slotted the backs of the gunport frames, so the guns could be inserted and then glued down onto the false carriages. Then I glued a "floor: to the frames so the carriages can sit on them at the correct height. First set of planks with the gun ports set at the correct height. Both rows of gun port openings completed with 1st layer of planking
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