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Found 78 results

  1. My new project is a steam yacht from 1884. It's Loreley. The drawings are made by myself which I shared some time ago in this forum.
  2. Hello Model Friends. After much research and more considerations, I decided to build the model of the "ROYAL CAROLINE 1749". The history of the Royal Caroline has been written x times, so I'll give up on more details. After the sparse construction drawings, as well as various to scale without drawings in the book by AotS I have strong doubts about the success of the project, but I try it anyway. The plan drawings by Boudriot, Delacroix from ANCRE publishing house, on the other hand, are top class in their own right, i very first cream. Thanks Mike for the help of the frame drawings. To the model: Scale: 1/48 Wood: German Elsbeere Overall lenght: 655,0 mm I will build the model with visible frames from the second barwood, as well as the interior. I have already installed the "backbone" of the model on/in the slipway building board. There are no photos of the individual parts, smoothly forgotten. Next step is the construction of forty-five douple frames, each frame consists of twelve parts, so I am busy in the near future. Karl (Sorry, Google translator)
  3. From the album: The Gretel

    © The Gretel by Ekis

  4. The wife bought me these plans last Christmas after seeing me looking at them on the NMM website, last week before Xmas she asked me where were they and why hadn't I built it yet???? I had actually copied the plans and made bulkhead patterns The plans appear to be at 1/32 but the stem of the boat is missing so full length isn't known however extending the lines and using the deck plan a reasonable assumption can be made A false keel was made from ply along with the bulkheads, the ship plans say longboat in the notes but it is fully decked with a state room, and fireplace below deck and a large capstan and large windlass, sliding bowsprit gives the impression of a cutter rig and layout so that's what im aiming for, I've gone for bulkheads as there's no framing plan and as its full decked out I can show some nice deck planking hopefully
  5. I started making Pen Duick a few years ago and I had long break. Now I am making the deck, and I will show pictures from the beginning. Pen Duick was named since 1935, is a cutter drawn in 1898 by William Fife III, famous naval architect, and built in Ireland under the name of Yum. With an overall length of 15.1 m and 10 m to the floating for 2.9 m of maximum width, it supports 160 m2 of sails. Since 1938, Eric Tabarly sailed on the Penduick bought by his father. The Penduick was restored a first time in 1958, to reinforce the hull by a thickness of polyester, then was rebuilt completely between 1983 and 1989. The mast is raised 20%. She remains one of the most beautiful classical sailing ships. drawings: differences between Yum & pen Duick: Images of the ship: Pen Duick sailing - (scan from the book) The scale is 1:20 The hull is made of wood - plywood ribs, maple, coated with epoxy resin. Deck is made of pear wood, more shades. Cheers, Matija.
  6. Hi folks Well, I’ve been a bit impatient lately and started on my next model, Sapphire, before my previous model, Genesis is completely finished. Anyhow, Sapphire is based on an actual mega-yacht called, Okto (https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-43054/okto-yacht-charter-printable.pdf). As is customary with all of my miniature models, the interior accomodation will be fully detailed and viewable through removable decks and superstructure. I hope you can join me on Sapphire’s journey. Cheers. Patrick
  7. Hi fellas. I am currently building Emma on another thread but I want something just a bit smaller so as to carry it in a bag ( by train) to the model sailing club some 20 ks away. Some of us have to or prefer to do without a car. As a kid ( and older! ) I have built numerous Vic Smeed designs. In fact my claim to fame is that I came second in a " Tomboy " free flight competition at Middle Wallop in the UK some years back. Needless to say the " Tomboy" was a Vic Smeed design and he appeared on that day. THAT!!! was my day bowled over. They are all simple and they all sail/ fly. Vic was a genius. I met him. He was a charming English and very clever Gentleman. Always immaculately dressed mostly in a suit. I have just recently learnt that he was a fighter pilot. This in itself gains even more respect. He has written so much about model aircraft and also model boats. Model boats was always his high. He loved them. Anyway..having obtained my plans and complete building instructions from Canada to Australia ( building instructions written by Vic himself) , I have commenced the build. I just love the way that he has gone to depths of explaining the cost of each material in pounds , shillings and pence! Superb!. This alone has set me on a course of vintage model yacht building. When I tried to explain to the young cashier at Bunnings ( Australia ) that the item should cost 2/6pence as per plan, she looked at me in total disbelief!!! Not really... but just a bit of fun. I have used the old fashioned methods of replicating the drawings to wood by using tracing paper. Yes...they still make tracing paper. The build techniques are archaic but then so am I so it matters not. Here are a few starter pics. Pete
  8. Hello, I am starting to build a model of the imperial yacht De Krone, donated to Peter I by the Prussian King Freed. Wilg. I in 1717 and brought to St. Petersburg in the spring of 1719.
  9. Disclaimer This is all Pete's fault. Because I already have too many builds on the go I thought why not another one. I know there are a few others here who merrily go about building a few boats/ships at the same time one of them shall remain nameless but we all know who it is. Pete has already done enough waxing eloquently about the merits of the Herreshoff lineage of boat designs so there is no need for me to go into any great details here except to say that I completely agree with him on the elegance of the Herreshoff lines no matter what size he designed. Build Part 1 Pete sent me a printed copy of the drawing he is using for his new boat it was already printed at 1 1/2 inch to the foot. (thanks Pete) I scanned it in order to trace it for developing some detailed model plans the lines plan is 50% and the body plans are 100% I spent a lot of time studying the various images of the 14 on the net and was particularly drawn to the Port Hadlock WA Boat school photo stream There are a lot of pictures of the 14 under construction and it is this version of the hull that I intend to model as far as the main structure of the hull. I have chosen this one because of the clarity of the construction methodology visible in the pictures. Unfortunately there are no pictures that I have yet found of the beginning of the Port Hadlock boat which would have confirmed a few things about how they prepared the frames and if they used a set of mold forms with ribands to prepare the bent frames, but I suspect that is the method that was used. I used corel draw this time instead of Autocad because I am more familiar with all the curve functions in corel. I used the line width function to shape the frames instead of drawing the outlines of them and this seems to be working well. This hull will be a test of my skill at doing a proper planking job, I have learned so much since the first post on the Pilot Cutter (still planning on sailing her next summer) where I basically did not have a clue about what I was getting into and built that hull as if it were a strip built canoe. I have chosen 3/4 inch thick planks for the hull (3/32 inch) and wondered a while about what wood to use. I want to have the planks varnished and not painted (visions of Chucks planking job on his cutter for the clarity and elegant execution) as a goal but with a more reddish colour. I remembered the redwood panels from the salvaged garage door and did a little re-sawing to get enough planks for the task. stripped up to 3/32 x 9/16 (3/4 x 4 1/2) Next I tried to bend some 5/32 square stock by all the different methods that I have read about on this forum and snapped most of them (what am I doing wrong?) I remembered that I had a 5 foot by 5 foot sheet of 1mm birch aircraft ply so I cut some 3/16 strips up on the paper cutter, it worked very well surprisingly. I also printed and traced out one of the more challenging mould forms to add the frames to. Next I used the wide throat jewelers saw to fret out the mould to use as a form for laminating the rib/frame the material is 1/4 inch Baltic birch ply. The mold form was pinned to some cork covered homasote (at least that is what I think it is) and the 4 layers were laminated together. In order to cancel out any discrepancy from side to side I laminated two of the same side, I will cut out the middle of the mold to help with the clamping of the planks. This will now continue for the rest of the frames that will fit over the molds Michael
  10. Dear friends model builders, I am starting here a new build log in the name of my very good friend Mile Bijelić. We have registered Mile last weekend and since Mile has limited access to a computer and is just learning in getting used to it, I will be posting his photos more often. Nevertheless, Mile will read the comments and reply - possibly with a certain delay, you may excuse him. First to introduce Mile Bijelić from my point of view: Mile is a very kind and dear person who impressed me since many years with his extremely exact way of working with the models. As far as I am concerned, Mile made something over 20 model ships of higher complexity. I myself was always getting my jaws dropped when looking at the beauty he managed to express with his models. All the photos I made cannot express the feeling when I observe them in the nature. At the same time, Mile is an extremely uncomplicated, openhearted person willing to help without end. We were sitting, I can remember the winter where we had some repairing at the electrical installation in the district of the town Zagreb and it was cold, we were sitting in the coats in his room for 13 hours and in the evening we were using our pocket lamps. He was and is always here for me to support me with my (challenging) project (De Zeven Provincien, 1665 in scale 1:45). Mile won gold at the world Championship twice: in August 1998 with the Royal Caroline 1749, scale 1:35 and in September 2013 with the Royal Prince 1670, scale 1:70. Just for the introduction, I will post here the photo of Mile (he is in the blue shirt on the right, Royal Prince in the middle and myself am on the left side) and a second photo of Mile with his awards. From now, I will add photos under my name and Mile will write from his account directly. Cheers Dražen (in the name of Mile)
  11. Dear colleagues. Today, April 8, 2016 start construction of another ship model, the imperial yacht Standart. To begin with a brief historical background, drawings, historical photographs.and photos of the model of the Naval Museum in St. Petersburg. It was founded October 1, 1893 at the shipyard Burmeister and Wain in Copenhagen. Launched Aug. 4, 1895. It entered into service in 1896 as the Imperial yacht. Delivered to the port in May 1918. In 1933-1936, it converted into a minelayer. He participated in the productions of mine, the evacuation of the base Hanko garrison, fire support of ground forces. April 3, 1942 awarded the title of Guards. In the 1950's converted into a plavkazarmu, and in 1961 - into a floating target for tests of missile weapons. Scrapped in the early 1960s. Displacement 5480 tons. The dimensions of 112.2 x 15.4 x 6.6 m. Voruzhenie 8 - 47 mm booking Gears 2 steam engines 12000 hp 24 boiler, 2 screws The speed of 22 knots Cruising range 1400 miles at 12 knots. The crew of 16 officers and 357 sailors After conversion into a minelayer Displacement 6189 tons. The dimensions of 122.3 x 15.4 x 7 m. Voruzhenie 4 - 130/55-B 13, 7 - 76 mm 34K, 3 - 45 mm 21K, 3 - 12.7 mm machine gun (2 DSHK and Vickers 1) Booked conning tower - 12 mm Gears 2 steam engines 11426 hp 4 boilers Yarrow 2 screws The speed of 18 knots cruising range of 2260 miles at 12 knots. The crew of 29 officers and 361 sailor
  12. Greetings my honorable colleagues. Asking the admittance to “the Dutch club”🙂 I have found the drawing in the internet, scale 1:30. I’m planning on working with the pear tree and black hornbeam. I would be very grateful for the advices and constructive critics. For the moment the model has a certain level of readiness. I will download the report in the chronological order. I also wanted to say that English is not my native language and I would have to use the translator sometimes. Due to this the terminology and information could be mistranslated. In advance, my sincere apologies if this may happen. Respectfully yours.
  13. Dear friends I have started to build a sail ship model based on a french plan for which it was impossible to get additional information. The reason was that I lost my job in 2000 when the internet hype broke and never ever since than been employed again. Since than I have worked on all kind of issues and after years my old degree as a technical translator has proven to be the best source of income until in April 2012 I was hit by a stroke which has degraded some how my abilities. But this project has proven over the years to be a source for having every day an agenda that has no empty space and have my life organized, my mood up and my grey cells active I am telling you this, for one reason because this might help others to find in this hobby a way to stay on top in hard times, but also because this explains my main objective. I am not building this model to finish it, but to have a platform that keeps me studying, give a red line to keep touching fascinating areas of competence into which to dwell and stay modest and try to help anyone that might benefit from my knowledge, as I have benefitted from many who helped around the globe. My objective is to build a sailship modell able to navigate along a regatta course autonomously. Lets start with the description of the Carina. A project that started in 2008 as a "light version of the Sabrina", the first hull that I started in 2002. The Sabrina proved to be too demanding to start and so, because my son Andreas had to engage into a 1 year project for the school, he decided to do this with his father as Mentor and I hoped that the love for modelism would jump to the next generation, in which I did not succeed. This plan, a bit in bad shape because I did not take it into account to care more, was all I had to start with. As a consequence I decided to make the first step to digitize the content of the plan. Goal was to correct errors in the original plan that I found during the construction of the hull for the Sabrina. So Andreas started by pasing the image of the views of the hull onto milimeter paper by oiling the paper of the plan and pinching with needles to pass the lines onto the the paper with 1 mm squares on it, 3/64", sorry we are metric outside the USA. Then we passed the digitized values into a CAD SW. We did digitized and passed the following points of each frame along the longitudinal axis of the view of the hull. As a base line we took the waterline, assigning it the value "0" and moved upwards in steps of 20 mm or 60/64" documenting it by increasing the digit next to the horizontal line. So frame 3 is already above the waterline. Traditionally we recorded the deck line to document where the frame changes from the hull to the deck. We than passed the values into an excel sheet to get visually the information where the digitized values were wrong by one or more reasons. The aim is to get continues curves. Today I would do it differently. After making sure the smooth curves in the CAD images of the frames did result in smooth curves we did print the pictures of the frames onto a thicker paper, about 160 gr paper, 5,65 oz, to prevent the glue with which we fixed them onto the wood, would modify the shape by it making it wet. The would choosen is a kind of triplex which is used to form the boxes were concrete is put into in construction. 5 mm thick, or 45/64". The reason is the wood is very brittle and so it can be removed easier later. I choose the method of putting the frames onto a table, upside-down in a way the waterline of all frames was in one level. You can see the tabs at the edges and how they were mounted on the table in the folowing picture that shows how I am removing the finished hull from the table.
  14. Hi folks Hot on the heels of finishing my last model, Shadow, I’ve excitedly started on what I think is my biggest challenge yet - Genesis, a 49m Luxury Mega Yacht, based on an actual ship named Khalilah, built by an American builder, Palmer and Johnson. The details of the ship, Khalilah, can be found here: https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-46797/khalilah-photos.htm#yacht-tabs As I don’t have any detailed plans, a lot of what I’m attempting is by sheer guess work, with a lot of help from a fellow MSW member (whose help and guidance I shall always appreciate). Like all of my other models, Genesis will have a fully detailed interior, from her engine room through to her sky deck. I hope you can follow me on my journey from here on. The following photos show where I’m up to so far with the hull. Lots and lots of work to go, folks!!! Thanks. Patrick
  15. I plan to build a 1:12 model of a 28 foot yacht. This design has never been built, but is a variant of a 24 foot yacht design usually called ‘a Ranger’ (see Wooden Boat magazine issue 227). The first of the type was called Ranger, launched in 1933. They are popular & loved because the design fits the purpose so well: day use on Sydney Harbour, with short coastal trips & overnighting capacity. The design was adapted by the designer to a 32’ ocean-going variant, & also a 28’ ocean-going variant. The 28 footer came 8th on IRC handicap in the 2006 Sydney Hobart Race (see youtube video of her in 2012 in 30-35 knots http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd9LqrDP510). The design I will build is slimmer & with less buoyancy in the bow than the ocean-going 28 footer. The ‘Ranger’ yachts are generally 24 foot (7.3m) waterline & on deck, with bowsprit, gaff rig & a raised deck. They are very beamy at around 9’6” (2.9m), or a beam/length proportion of about 40%. This version is 28’ & 9’6” beam, so it’s basically stretched, not scaled up. This design is of interest generally because: the smaller ones are admired & loved, at least locally; this 28’ design has never been built; the designer (Cliff Gale) was a self-taught boat designer & in his day was considered one of Sydney’s best yachtsman. But it’s also personal: I’m lucky enough to have one of the 24 footers. I love the design, that they can be so beamy yet look good & sail so well, & they are a terrific motor boat as well. They sail well in 5 knots & can also sail unreefed in 40 knots. These photos show well the nuggety shape: This is the existing ocean going 28 footer, she's the most similar boat to the design I'm building, but much fuller. It's a big little boat: Cliff Gale was a self-taught designer, who learned by towing carved models behind a dinghy. Ranger was designed by carving a bread & butter half model, which was taken apart & measured. Cliff’s son Bill recently wrote this about his father: "Cliff Gale left school in 1898 aged twelve, & knew arithmetic but had insufficient mathematics to be useful in boat design. As a boy he lived at Woolwich & the family owned a rowing skiff for transport & pleasure. From thirteen to nineteen he made in excess of one hundred rough sailing models, each one progressively different, which he tested from the skiff. At nineteen he felt he had completed his design self-education.” I would like to build the model plank on ribs, & possibly make it RC sailing - although plain sailing is an alternative as well. But I’ll leave that alternative open until I get to that point, I will also be happy if a nice display model is the result. The issue that needs to be resolved is actually what to build... I do have the original drawings as done by a naval architect to Cliff’s design, but having looked carefully at them, they do not relate accurately between the different drawings. The history of the Ranger design makes this even worse: for Ranger herself we have Cliff’s original half model, we have the original drawings done from the half model, & we have lines drawing of Ranger meticulously done by 2 local shipwrights … & they don’t match up. If you compare station 4 on the drawings below, the design drawing shows more tumblehome, & much less buoyancy - the volume below the waterline was increased while being built, to increase her load-carrying capacity: Bill Gale tells me that his father went to the boatbuilder often to supervise the construction, & that he made a number of modifications to the lines while she was being built. For the model, I will have to adapt the lines drawing, trying to do it in a similar way that the lines drawing of Ranger was adapted to the built design. Because of the uncertainty, the model building method needs to help resolve thoughtfully these differences between the various possible shapes, & not be a way of getting caught up in plotting lines on a screen that fit but might be going away from the design. Initially I spent some hours trying to resolve a set of lines that is consistent, as they do not quite match up on the original drawing. My CAD skills are fair but you can’t really see a subtle 3D curved object in a drawing, so making changes to a curve on screen seems risky in this case. So I’ve concluded that I must see the shape in the flesh, & so carve the solid hull shape, based on a set of lines I adapted from the original lines drawing. The shape will be fair, so then I know the molds will work. If the method is too difficult I will be reluctant to make corrections, so it needs to be fairly simple & easy to make & to change. In putting this up early, I hope to benefit from the knowledge & experience of this forum. So I’ve done some sketches below that show the idea for my construction method, & hope that I can get some constructive criticism & help to iron out any issues now. In a few weeks I’ll get back to the computer & finalise the lines drawings; but for now I’ll describe the idea for the building method - as I see it now. 1 Work up a set of lines in CAD, from the original drawings. 2 Cut plywood molds from the station lines. 20141103145702436.pdf 3 Assemble the molds with solid balsa blocking between them, the balsa blocking is to be removable. Possibly brass rods inserted at angles through the balsa & molds. 20141103145708075.pdf 20141103145720688.pdf 4 Carve the hull shape out of the solid, using the molds as indicators. If I need to add to the molds, glue strips of timber on the mold edges. 5 Make the stem, forefoot, keelson, keel, transom etc, to sit neatly over the hull shape. 20141103145726052.pdf 6 Remove some of the solid blocking, where the ribs can sit directly on the molds; leave the blocking where the ribs want to lie at angles, I’ll probably need to put in temporary spacers to help hold the model together. By keeping blocking in the bow area, the ribs can follow their natural line rather be pushed into being straight across the hull. It's not so bad for the aft 2/3s of the hull shape, I think they'll be able to sit on the plywood ribs. 7 Cut the rabbet, rib the hull. 8 Plank the hull. 9 Remove molds & remaining blocking, progressively putting in some deck beams as it goes. 10 Have a cup of tea thanks for reading this, I hope to learn a bit more before starting, & maybe revise the method if needed MP
  16. Hello All, After the last SIB built wihtout any running lines, I really began to miss the the hinges and the rigging. This next build will be a Bat Mitzva gift for my niece Lila (twin to Max - he of the FORTNITE Pirate Ship), and will the last in this particular series of gifts! I found a gulet called the Princess Lila, a luxury yacht, available for charter in Turkey and Croatia. A gulet is a traditional design of a two-masted or three-masted wooden sailing vessel from the southwestern coast of Turkey. I believe that this is a ketch. I also saw the Gulet Queen Lila, but the family here liked the looks of the Princess better. As is typical for SIB building, I pick the inspiration (or recipient), then the ship, and then the bottle to match. I really like this old Kessler's whisky bottle, with the fancified diamond glasswork! I typically remove the back label, but try to leave on the front and any other labels to demonstrate the bottle's heritage or provenance. That was my plan here. The Boss, well, she did not approve of me keeping on any such ratty things for our niece, and admonished me thusly, "She's a 13-year old girl, not a 50-year old man! Take off all the labels. And make sure that thing is crystal clear!" She's right, of course. Although I made saggitical slices for the USS Alaska, that was really roughshod. This time I planned them out a bit more properly. Still a bit rushed but not too bad for this impatient SIB maker. These saggital cuts are what are used in the italian and japanese kits, the latter being my favorite. The american kits just hull blanks for whittling and sanding. I had been doing the blanks, but I think after this Gulet, I have been converted to the slices. It allows for a more finessed hull shape during the sanding phase. Next: Hull and deck fabrication
  17. Hi everyone Oh no! Not another J Class yacht model? Yes, I say! They are amongst the most beautiful racing machines ever designed...and Rainbow, is no exception. My model (loosely based on Amati plans) will be fully detailed inside; much the same as my previous models, eg Ingomar. The interior wil be viewable via an open deck and large cutaways of the hull. Hope you can join me on Rainbow's journey! All the best Patrick

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