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Found 22 results

  1. This is my first kit build. I've dabbled with RC planes for a few years so maybe some of that experience will help me as I come up to speed building ships. I started in late December and kept my build log off-line. I meant to start the log here earlier, but just didn't take the time until now. The dates when I made my first entries are noted as follows. 12/27/2017 I purchased the Mamoli Yacht America as my first kit and received it on 12/18/2017. I selected this kit because I think it is a beautiful ship with great lines, and I also thought it would be a reasonable kit to start with as it did not appear to have extensive rigging. I considered selecting the Constructo America kit, but chose to go with Mamoli’s Amrerica kit because Constructo’s kit did not have a jib boom which to me is significant to the lines and the appearance of the ship. I realize that I could have added it, but this being my first kit build, I thought it was best to rely on the contents of the kit and follow the instructions. I also spent some time on the internet and found ModelShipWorld.com. After reading through the build logs posted by Hamilton, Mojofilter, and Flyer, and then reviewing the documentation provided with the kit, I’m thinking I may have selected the wrong kit maker. I’ll move forward with it and do the best I can. However, as I progress with reviewing the great information I’m finding in this forum and other places on line, and then using some of that information to assess this kit, I have to say I am not impressed with this Mamoli kit. I read about the fire some time back and realize the company is out of business, but I don’t see myself building any other Mamoli kits that are still avilable. Today I saw a new build log started by Greatgalleons that looks to be a good resource. The ModelShipWorld forum is outstanding, especially for us guys who are new to this. 12/28/2017 Separated keel and bulkheads. Began reviewing instructions and drawings. Labeled bulkheads. 12/29/2017 I have found an excellent resource on Youtube. Gary Brinker has posted 40 videos of his Model Expo Bluenose build (titled “Bluenose 1” through “Bluenose 40”, averaging about 30 minutes each). These videos have some great discussion and a lot of good info and insights to consider. His ModelExpo kit appears to be far superior in quality and completeness to my Mamoli kit. Completed first dry fit of keel and bulkheads. Forward bulkheads and deck fit was okay, but has some looseness. Rear deck and bulkheads were another matter. The 3 bulkheads closest to stern did not fit well and required trimming. I’m stopping to return to build logs and re-read and re-check photos. 01/01/2018 ModelShipWorld.com appeared to have a server problem and was down for a couple of days. I have not been able to re-read the build logs, but remembered some of Hamilton’s comments. I disassembled the bulkheads and keel and checked each against the drawings. I’m under-whelmed. As I look at the laser cuts, many of them are of very poor precision. For example, the slot in the keel for the second bulkhead back from the bow is not straight on either side. With the cost of this kit, and the technology of CNC machines today, the quality of these cuts is unacceptable to me. These cuts should be perfectly straight and should be cut to the correct width so that there is no looseness with the bulkheads. Perhaps there needs to be some looseness to adjust the fit, but in reading Hamilton’s build log for this kit, he seems to have reached the same conclusion. Very poor quality in my opinion. I also see the same issues as Hamilton did with the laser cut parts not matching the drawings, leaving one to ponder which is correct. I am assuming Mamoli used a CNC machine, and if so it’s obvious the CNC programming for the laser cuts did not match the drawings provided with the kit. Lining the tip of the bow up on the drawing, the following photos show the poor laser cuts. Hamilton mentioned in his log that he would shim the keel to fill in the gaps per the drawing. The dry fit with the keel, the bulkheads and the deck pieces line up relatively well, they just do not match the drawings. My concern is, where is the inaccuracy and how does this affect the build later on such as when I begin planking the hull? Did they use an entirely different drawing to program the laser cuts? Should I trust the drawings? This kit cost too much for this level of quality, or lack thereof. I’d fire these guys if they worked for me. 1/25/2018 This entry to my build log covers several weeks of work. I spent time laying each bulkhead and the keel piece on the drawings to check alignment of the cuts. I found that if I align the stern up exactly on the drawing then the slots for the bulkheads and the masts line up fairly well. However, it shifts the error to the bow as you can see below. After several dry fits with the deck pieces, it seems that the bulkheads line up very well with the slots in the forward and aft deck pieces. It doesn’t seem that the issue with the bulkhead slots in the keel piece not matching the drawing will have much impact to the overall alignment of the kit. Also, I could spend time shimming the keel piece to fill in the gaps in the picture above, but how much does that change the appearance of the model to the naked eye? I’ll give it some more thought, and might go ahead and shim it up to match the drawing. There was more looseness with the bulkheads than I realized at first, and based on the other build logs I’ve read I decided that I should shim them up to fit better. The problem I realized was that I had no spare or scrap wood since this is my first kit. Also, there is only one hobby shop within 25 miles of where I live, and that shop did not have supplies for ship modeling. They are mainly a RC shop for cars and planes. At this point, I decided I would order a supply of wood and did so from Agesofsail.com (various widths in mm, 0.5 mm thick and 1 mm thick, 36” bundles of 10). It took 7-8 days to receive so I was somewhat dead in the water until then. I’ve now trimmed, sanded, shimmed, etc., all 15 bulkheads and the keel piece, where needed and have a pretty tight fit on all 15 bulkheads. Here is the dry fit with the shimming completed. Here are the pieces showing some of the shims. I noted from the other build logs that bulkhead 14 is not cut correctly.
  2. I thought this would be a good time to dust off this great kit, Revell's "America", circa 1969 edition. The hull is cast in black plastic and the sails are more usable than the vacuform sails that are in the newer released kit version. The surface detail is fantastic, both on the hull and decks. The scale is not perfect and it is not 1/56 scale...not even close...it is 1/61ish and the boat is 1/4 inch too narrow on the beam. Still, it's close enough that it is still pleasing to the eye. The instructions state that the model can be sailed on a pond (as a free-sailor) if certain steps are taken, so adding some radio gear should make it that much more fun! Instructions for free-sailing are vague on making this happen, but two steps are clearly stated. One step in making this a pond boat is to add 15 ounces of a birdshot/modeling clay mixture to the bilge from stem to stern. This is great news... you could put all the radio gear you need for sail and rudder control and still have to add lead ballast to come up to 15 ounces. The other is adding the furnished clip-on fin that attaches to the keel to help tracking and minimize leeway. I'm going to improve the sailing characteristics by following suit, but with a larger copper fin that will help by putting more weight lower and improve handling. I know this is a deviation from the prototype, but the model is too small to rely on just the hull. Also, I'm going to use as much of the kit parts as possible, but will bend the rules for ease of sailing/building sake. In other words, this should be a fun build. Before welding the hull half's together, it's a good time to paint the interior bulwarks white. Rattle-can primer and color coats for this. Taping was tedious but pays off when peeled away. This would be harder to do if the half's were joined, but still possible. The plastic parts respond very well to solvent (a medium hot type was bought at Tap Plastics) and are almost impossible to separate after it cures...about 5 minutes! This is one of the attractions of building this model, the ability to weld everything together with solvent. The cap rail is painted a rich brown to simulate Mahogany. I'm using artist oil paints for most of the detail and though it takes a long time to dry, I really like the results. Joe
  3. Hi everyones! I had a break in the shipbuilding for more than 3 months. Now, before I go back to my current projects, I decided to do another short mini-project for restoring of my skills. So, I begin as usual with building of the hull. Richard Lawler Schooner America Best Regards! Igor.
  4. Got this kit from BlueJacket because I want to make transition to scratch built from kits. I hope it will help with some techniques, hopefully. The kit seems good, lots of material and fittings
  5. I asked some questions, earlier, about this 40+ year old Constructo kit. I've got emotional ties to this as it was a present from my wife and, I think, has been on my list of things I want to finish for the longest time. After deciding this was the time to restart work, I realized that the model has some issues/ The plans and packaging described it as a scaled model but there was no actual scale provided, nor any reference name that would give me a clue as to scale, or size of the full sized ship. The following is a picture of the model, as I left it years ago. This doesn’t show all the parts, but I do have them. The instructions consist of one page, one side (English) and one side in Spanish. The plans are reasonable, but I have already gotten more out of reading some reference books, and specifically the build logs and helpful hint logs on this site. Some of the members of this site suggested I look at the Bluenose, and/or use Chapelle’s “American Fishing Schooners” (AFS) to get a better idea of what it might be. These were great suggestions, and my understanding has really gotten better. I will apologize in advance for any terminology mistakes I make. I find much of it confusing, but I’m working on learning it. Since my model doesn’t appear to be based on any actual ship, I decided I had freedom to see what actual schooner the model comes closest to, and what changes I might need to make to make it more realistic. I’ve learned a great deal going over AFS, and have some ideas about my boat model, and what I’m thinking of doing to make it more accurate. I would appreciate any feedback about the kit bashing I’m thinking of doing, and if it is appropriate or not. 1. The Constructo Schooner doesn’t match the hull proportions of the Bluenose or America (which also had a tiller). It has a wider beam to its overall length (25%). 2. The actual hull shape seems to match some of the 1890 – 1910 vintage fishing schooners. The factors I compared were. (a) hull profile; (b) ratio of molded beam to molded length; (c) mast locations; and; (d) location/angle of rudder. 3. The boats that seemed to match better (from AFS) are Emily Cooney (AFS plate 99); Vigilant (AFS plate 82); and the Benjamin Latham (AFS plate 92). I added the Latham partly because there is so much info in the ongoing builds. The dimensional comparisons look like this: Constructo Schooner U-604 AFS Schooners DESCRIPTION MODEL SIZE (inches) From 1:64 to real From 1:72 to real Vigilant; AFS, pp 195-6 Emily Cooney; AFS pp 231 Benjamin Latham; AFS 229 Molded Length 16.5 86.6 99.0 96.2 89.4 95.7 Molded Beam 4.1 21.7 24.8 22.0 21.5 21.0 Depth, molded 2.6 13.8 15.8 11.6 10.9 10.8 The hull comparisons look like this: Mast Locations Quarterdeck break locations All the boats that came closest to matching the Constructo model had several significant differences which I think I need to modify on the model. The Constructo model does not provide an actual scale. But comparing the model to actual boats and looking at proportions of items such as bulwark height, etc., it appears a scale ratio of either 1:64, or 1:72 would work well. I’m leaning to using 1:64, partly because it would scale the bulwarks to an actual height of 2’-6”, which seems to match actual boats better. Although the Constructo model has a monkey rail, it doesn’t have a quarter deck. All the actual boats had a quarter deck, so I think I need to add one. This will require extending the monkey rail and the quarterdeck about 3’ – 5’ past the main mast (1/2” to 1” in 1:64 scale). Using a quarterdeck height of 9” – 12” this would be 1/8” to 3/16” in 1:64 scale. The Constructo model has a tiller. I couldn’t find any similar real boats that didn’t have a wheel/wheelhouse, so I will convert this also. One area that I think needs work is the keel/false keel. My model doesn’t have one, and it seems like I should add one. I’m still going through AFS for more information, but I think I would need to add a 6” – 12” false keel on the bottom of the hull. I would have it about the same at the bow, similar to the Vigilant or Cooney. I am leaning to tapering it at the stern, and slightly reducing the rake on the rudder (like the Cooney). This would give me something to attach the rudder píntle and gudgeons to. Also, if I added the keel and then shrunk the model to match with the three real ships, I think the profiles and proportions would be more appropriate. I would like to carve the outside of the bulwarks to make it look more like the bulwark profiles in AFS. Currently the model curves up in a smooth curve on the outside of the hull to where the bulwark top rail will be. In the Sultana build article by Chuck Passaro (Nautical Research Guild) he cut of the solid wood bulkhead and replanked the bulkheads. I’ve got to do some more thinking on this approach since I know I don’t want to carve away the sides of the hull to plank up to the bulkheads (I know my patience and carving skills would not be up to that). Several less critical items I’m still researching include size and spacing of the stanchions. What I currently understand is they should be on about 2’ centers, and about 4” – 6” timbers. This would amount to about 39 stanchions per side (model size of about 3/8” spacing, for 1/16” to. 3/32” timbers. I’m leaning to cheating on this and going to the equivalent to 2-1/2’ or 3’ spacing. I could probably get the closer spacing in, but I think it would be beyond my painting abilities. Scuppers sound like they most often are on one or both sides of the stanchions, but only 1” to 2” high. I’m guessing 2” to 4” long based on some pictures. I’m not sure if adding these would be feasible, or within my capabilities. I have access, through my local library, to laser cutter, 3D printers, a Carvey (CNC wood carver), cameo cutters, etc. and I hope to be able to do some of the work using these devices. I’m sure these items are just the tip of the iceberg, and I will be finding more as I start the actual model. I would appreciate any feedback, corrections or suggestions you might have. Thanks JeffK
  6. I recently bought a plan for this America Schooner. The America II was in the US Naval Station on the Severn River when I was there. It was right next to the Meridea then. I did not have the point of perspective that I could do a sketch of it because Meridea was right between. Although the 1/4" plan is pretty good, It only has about 8 stations drawn, and none of them are spaced upon the evenly spaced frame positions, so the only way I can accomplish drawing the frames for her will be to take those station drawings and enter them into CAD and extrapolate each frame from the resulting waterlines. I am interested in working on getting this CAD drawing, but, I have never transitioned into any successful 3D skills with my DesignCAD 2/3D program. I have had an idea of the how to do the plan, but it will take a lot of trial and error before I can get it accomplished, I am sure. I have wanted to do this POF for almost as long as I have been working on Meridea, however, it was all in 2D. The lack of being in 3D caused me to have problems with the drawings in each view being coordinated (may not be the right word). I believe I am going to need some guidance on this one. Does anyone out there have and understand DesignCAD 3D MAX? I will probably need some tips on how to get the move point in a uniform position so when I paste the station into the 3D drawing they will all line up successfully. When I select the intersect of the vertical/horizontal lines the move point is always off to the side. That makes it next to impossible to get the former in exactly the right place. That has been my main problem from the start. I have also had some problems with them showing up in the right plane going from 2D to 3D. The 2D is XY, and when pasting them into the Z position, the front, top, and side views don't seem to come out right. The few times they did, I don't know how I got them there. I do understand layering, so you can hide or show each station.
  7. So, after finishing my Benjamin W. Latham, and after a busy summer, I have been thinking about my next build. I had several options: resuming my Hesper build now that the hull is completed, build another fishing schooner like Elsie, build the Emma C. Berry which has been collecting dust on my shelves, and also having visited Rochefort in France this summer, I saw the Hermione -again- and building the kit from A.L. tempted me. Not to bore anyone, but here was my line of thinking. As tempting as the Hermione is, and after seeing several build logs, I finally decided to stay away from this kit, as I thought a kit at that scale does a poor rendering of the real vessel. I then went back to the schooner list. My ideal choice would be a POB, scale 1/4 . Unfortunately, there are not many such kits on the market. An option would be of course to scratchbuild. After seeing the beautiful Elsie model from Erik Ronnberg at the Cape Ann Essex museum, I got the plans and looked into building it POB on that 1/4 scale. But Elsie looks a lot like the Benjamin W. Latham, so I decided to abandon this idea. Which brings me to America. A legendary schooner, well (?) documented, many models existing. Here again, no POB is available at 1/4 scale. There is the bluejacket POF, the Mamoli POB at 1/66 scale, and I think there was a Constructo available at some point. I got the 1/48 plans of the BlueJacket America and studied them carefully. As Chapelle said in his book The History of American Sailing Ships, “a great many plans of the America have been published in the past, unfortunately , however, not two agree.” However from my research, the B.J. version seems to be the closest one to the original America, especially as she competed in 1851. Because I am interested in building models as close as the real one, a scratchbuild POB option based on the B.J. plan seemed a good approach. However, I tabled that idea for now, and decided to start the Mamoli kit instead to get a general idea of the model. I expect there will be a lot of kitbashing involved, based on the building logs I have seen here. I ordered the kit and will post the progress here. Stay tuned….
  8. Hi Folks For ages I’ve been trying to justify not touching several Kits that I have, Till Last weekend where I decided to warm up hands with an old Scientific Kit. My father had it built back in the 60's in Pittsburgh, and I remember lots of craftsman shift in this kit, lots of dedication. This kit would be nothing compared to the masterpieces I´ve been following on this site, but I will try to honor this kit. The Kit Parts
  9. I started this kit just after Christmas, although I didn't get this as a gift. this is a reissue kit.....I've never seen the older version, but this version looks to be of good quality. I did find a couple of small flaws in it, but nothing to go ballistic over.......they were quite easy to repair. the build starts as a split keel design, numbering the pairs of ribs was a bit of a challenge........the rib layout diagram was different than the laser cut part's panels. once I figured it out, it went much better. I will try to narrate some of the missing text, but if you'd like to read the entire build as it stands so far, you can go here: http://wenzelswharf.wordpress.com/2012/12/30/billings-america-a-172-scale-kit/ there is much more text here than I could ever put into any site.....without seeming long winded, of course. this is where the first problem surfaced.....one of the ribs was nicked by the saw and caused an edge to be flattened. the fix was to cement a piece of basswood onto the offended area and sand it to shape. on the 30th od December, the numbering, fitting and subsequent assembly of the keel halves began. they supply a nice board to assemble the halves on, but I have a large length of pine board, that worked even better......more than enough room to do both sides at the smae time. this picture gives you a good idea as to how large this pine board is. in this next picture, I will show the repaired rib.....I'm certain you can see which one.
  10. To celebrate this years Americas Cup i decided to build a model of the original ship. This was a kit i had for many years. When i open the kit i was shocked to find that powder post beatle had attacked the wooden parts. At first i decided to just remake the damaged parts but as the work progressed i decided to make a second scratch built model using the kit to make the scratch built parts. As with my other projects i plan to make a video of this build.
  11. Hi All. This is Gary from Austin, Texas making my first post. I have recently acquired the 1/48th scale America kit from Bluejacket and hope to log its build here. I have been lurking here a bit, very impressed by the knowledge and craftsmanship shown in many of the build logs. And frankly I am a bit intimidated as well. But I did not find any other build logs for the large Bluejacket America model so I hope my efforts add to the community, if only because of that. I have seen several build logs of the Mamoli version, and I am sure I will reference them more in the future. Over the last many years, I have built a handful of wooden boats and ships. The most ambitious project was Model Expo's Niagara. Sadly while building that I realized two things: 1) I do not enjoy rigging 2) I am more interested in small work or pleasure boats than warships. The Niagara has spent maybe 8 years in my closet with the standing rigging half done while I went on a boat building hiatus. Then in October, 2015, completely by accident, I drove by Bluejacket's HQ/Store/Gallery in Searsport, Maine while making my way from Boston to Acadia National Park. I made a quick U-turn and stopped in. I guess I left there inspired, as since then I built their Swampscott Dory and their Lobster Boat. Around the beginning of this year I decided to challenge myself a bit and ordered their plank-on-frame America. And yes I realize it requires some rigging, but it is minimal enough that I should get through it! Don't expect quick progress. I still work full time and have too many other hobbies. I've had the kit for about 2 months and have worked on it less than 30 hours so far. Progress will appear to be quick initially as I'll make posts to summarize those 2 months of work. But first here is a picture of the freshly opened box when I got the kit:
  12. I have been by the sail bug of late and nostalgia and ventured back to my youth when I made just about all of Revell sailing ships.So I picked up the USS America simple get my feet wet again with the rigging and such.I p/u from HISmodel the wooden deck and block/pulleys which the pulleys will be a new venture for me I have dealt with wood decks on the Eugen.I have the hull,decks and the mast are just about finished in painting just a little bit more.Russ lives like three houses down and says the black iron on the rudder goes so that be fixed and I went with 16' planks right or not I don't know but I mark them lined the ends and nail.I have seen alot of these decks with one nail hole ? call it my personnel interpretation Kevin
  13. The more models i look at and the more photographics and paintings i see is the more confused i am about the deck layout of the America 185. Can anyone direct me a competitant deck layput of this ship? kevin
  14. New build log for Yacht America, Been looking around for a few sail boat kits which do not require too much rigging. I have built many models, more than I can remember or count of tall ships of all sizes and shapes and have chosen this Yacht model because it appears to require not to much brain power. I have never been impressed with Mamoli kits, they are made for bashing. You never know what surprises will appear during the process of the model build, so here goes.
  15. Build log schooner America While working on HM Schooner Pickle I started to look out for a next project. As I really did like the simple elegance of the schooner and a friend of mine had long reserved some space in his office for a dust catcher in form of a model ship the decision to build another schooner was taken. This friend has family connections to the US and I always liked the elegant, innovative design of America and so this vessel was chosen. Also the Mamoli kit comes in scale 1/66 which is close enough to 1/64 to make all fittings in this scale available for a bit of kit enhancement. A decade ago I had built Mamolis La Gloire and found the kit of good quality (...for that time - I had never seen a JoTiKa kit yet). Mamoli seems presently to be out of service but I was lucky to find a kit in a Swiss model shop. The Kit The first impression was quite good. A tidy box with cleanly separated parts in various compartments. The quality of the wood is only average but the cast parts look good. The plans seem to cover the whole build although the written instructions are meagre and sometimes a bit difficult to understand. The original is Italian, which I don't speak, but by combining English and German translations (by Google?) and some educated guess I should be able to get the meaning of it. The coppering Mamoli uses an ingenious simple way to imitate the coppering of the lower hull with small wooden tiles. The same method was used in Keith Juliers earlier books and looked to be an clever approximation. However as the excellent copper plates of Victory Models are available I will use them. This asks for some re-planning as 0,5mm strips will be replaced by thin copper. Therefore lower hull and rudder will have to be different. The skeleton Keel and frames are of quite soft 3,5mm plywood and need some reworking to fit. The two deck parts equally need a rework but altogether a skeleton is quite easily formed. The slender elegant lines are now visible and I'm definitely hooked - a beautiful design. Visible is also the that stem and sternpost need to be made as separate new parts with a strength of 5mm. Also the rudder will need a similar replacement. Some additional wood strips are necessary to cover the lower hull and at the same time I can adjust the deck planking. dry fit of the skeleton Pickle's bosun standing on Americas deck is a bit overwhelmed by the sheer size of this modern schooner
  16. Well, I thought I better get my build log back from where I left off.
  17. Hello all - This will be my first posting to the forum. I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and the deck layed down, and put her away. Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again. I got the second planking on and coppered the hull. I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape). I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets. I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think). It went further than I wanted. I was looking for more of a brown penney color. Most of the deck furnature is on. Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next. I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied I'll get some more picks as I progress. - Tim
  18. An Eight Dollar Model The footy model I've been puttering around with has been put on the shelf for a little while. I've just lost enthusiasm for the project. I'll probably get back to it at some point, though. In September, I took the kids to a model and toy show at the DuPage County Fairgrounds (near Chicago). This event happens twice a year and the kids always find things there: action figures, models, other assorted plastic stuff... There are almost never wooden ship models at this show. It's all about plastic, and mostly cars and aircraft. So I was walking down an aisle just browsing, trying to keep the kids in sight and saw this... The guy in the booth, before I could say anything, said, "Give me eight bucks and it's yours." I looked in the box. Everything appeared to be there, including some tools and a book. The wood alone was worth eight bucks. I bought it. When I got home, I found that, indeed, everything was there and the plans looked really good. I decided to try to build the model instead of just scavenge model wood out of it. Although I'd never considered building a model of the America, this kit has piqued my interest. Dan
  19. Hello there: This is just a placeholder for now, but I hope to dive into Mamoli's America kit in early September, once I've finished the Amati Hannah (in a bottle). I admit, I'll be happy to get back to building at a larger scale!! I've been more of a lurker and very occasional contributor here for the last year, since I finished my HMS Blandford (see link in signature). It has been an extremely busy time at work and though I've kept up with modelling (finishing the Fair Rosamund and now nearly finished the Hannah) there hasn't been much time for the more social side of things.....Hopefully the coming year will be a bit more relaxed (HA!) and I'll be able to maintain this log and be a more active contributor on the forums. For now, some brief notes on my impressions of the Mamoli America kit. Wood Not bad. At first I was concerned less with the quality than with the amount supplied. There did not seem to be nearly enough for the double planking and deck planking. But then I read the instructions, which provided some explanation, though not much reassurance..... Metal parts The mast hoops, mast coats, boom saddles, and many iron bands for masts and spars are supplied as pre-made metal parts. This is a relief for me, since my metal working abilities are non-existent. The parts seem to be well made and well dimensioned and though they look quite similar, the plans clearly identify each one. Plans/Instructions The plans are clear and complete, which makes the instructions more or less unnecessary except as a (frequently vague) guide to interpreting some of the drawings. There are a few parts/pieces missing from the kit - one of the blue plastic skylight windows and 4 of the 6 capstan whelps. The whelps I can make from scrap wood I think, but I'll have to replace all the windows.... There is also a particular oddity about this kit. The instructions state that the second planking should only go as far down the hull as the waterline, after which the second planking is replaced by small wooden pieces simulating copper plates. To my way of thinking this seems like a very difficult way to approach the planking of the hull, and if anyone who has built this kit can give me guidance here I'd appreciate it! I'm tempted to just apply the second planking to the entire hull. There's not enough material supplied in the kit to accomplish this, but given that the hull is "coppered" and painted it won't make much matter what material I use for the lower part.... Anyway, that's it - sorry for the lack of photos. I'll post some a little later hamilton
  20. I think that nobody on this forum need the presentation of the original, of "the mother of regatta's boats" the . Maybe the best description was the dialogue between the Queen and the Commodore oduring the regatta around the Isle of Wight, August, 22, 1851: Queen Victoria: Who is the first, Commodore:"America, your Majesty." Queen Victoria: Who is the second, Commodore:"There is no second, your Majesty." As the other models, in small scale 1:200, reduced Mamoli drawings in 1:66 , in fact i had the complete kit, i made it an the big one was a marriage gift for one cousin The model was made with complete double planking, second planking with walnut 1*1mm, the deck is also some light wood, strips 1*1mm. As in that time (before internet) I hadn't to many references, but honestly I didn't searched to much, i decided to put the table (improbable elliptic shape :/ ) in the "salon" undo the big windowed portion, then on the table put the chart , square/triangle and the other "useful" parts ) Honestly I was convinced that it could't be visible, which is right, without lens you could't see nothing but some colored, a bit bigger, dust On all models so on this on the keel I made two small holes and put inside pieces of small piles (part of medic needles or similar ) so for the support later i use small profiles with pieces of steel rods fitting in that pipes. The rods are slightly curved so for put in or out is needed some force, nothing extra but enough to hold firmly together the support and the model with simply possibility to separate. On the last photo are the three models, Flying Fish and America in 1:200 and Shenandoah in 1:100 as a comparison of dimensions Also in this model is evident the out scale of elements but I hadn't the patience nor the materials and tools to made it in scale. To finish the model I have to arrange the rigging and the sails which I usually make from the paper which could be find inside shoes or cloth boxes, also the support has to be made.

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