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Found 376 results

  1. Ok first of all hello guys and gals. It's been almost three years since my last log on here. I had built the Friesland by mamoli. The build log is still here. So I got this kit awhile ago on a buy, swap and sell page. It's an old one but the wood inside is very well preserved. No warping, The rubber bands holding the strips together has long since perished. Decide to have a crack at it and see where we go from there.
  2. Dear All, A new House and a new project, Artesania Latina Fulgaro. This was something that I got off "Trademe" Auction Site, (New Zealand's Ebay), a couple of years ago. (I looked for this under the A/L catalogue but appears to have been discontinued.) I am unsure if I have posted in the correct place but the Moderators can correct if not right. As far as I can ascertain, these boats, "Gozo," are still used. (Sanson will have to take a back seat for the mo.) Two of the three Abyssinian "Helpers" got in the frame, but, as we all know, the Internet was made for cats.... (And Model Ships!!) 🙂 Hopefully, this will turn out o.k. as I intend to give this (When complete), to the owners of a Holiday Park in Opunake who were so accommodating giving us a Cabin to stay in before taking possession of the new House at an absolutely wonderful rate!! The Ship Room is now more or less operational so its time to get Farah-Fawcett, and the Ship Plans, on the wall and do something constructive!! Kit Contents: Usual A/L laser cut wood and something that I haven't seen before in an A/L kit, pre-shaped Hull Strakes, (X6), which go directly beneath the Gunwales. The remainder of the Planking is the usual Lime Strip Wood. Mahogany for the Decking Pre-Sewn Sails Hardware So, it will be an interesting "Smallish" Boat. (It looks like a Happy Boat!!) Cheers....HOF.
  3. First build log for first ship attempt. Already planked realizing I should create a log to document it! So far I found planking to be pleasantly challenge. Love the fact that if you take your time, most mistakes can be sanded out! I minimized the number of nails when I planked and pulled many out after glue dried (tightbond capenter's glue and cy to "spot weld" when needed). I've got the rubbing strakes on and now working on the railing. Need to give a shout out to DocBlake for his keel clamp. I followed his sample images substituting wingnuts because I had them available. Awesome clamp!
  4. My next build will be this kit from AL. This a fairly typical AL kit. A mixture of very high quality parts, and some decent quality. Have started with the framework. instructions are good not brilliant. good photo instruction very little written instructions. Biggest problem I had is the sheet with the part numbers. Only two sheets where numbered. Worst of all the sheet with the bulkheads had no numbers at all. Seeing as one bulkhead out of place could throw the whole build off, this is a rather important omission. I had to fit and refit them until I had them correctly spaced. That aside I still enjoy building AL kits.
  5. Hi, This is my first build that I want to humbly present to you. My English is not so good, but I am able to understand all your comments. I will post a series of pictures of my work in progress. The ship has been tint with Saman waterbased tint and watersoluble varnish (Saman too) was used for protection and for clear coat. I tinted over varnish in multiple layers given more depth and opaque tints. I used CA glue (Bob Smith) and yellow wood glue (Lepage). I tried to put some pictures, but the server gives me -200 error. So, I will do it gradually. Sorry if I previously put this site on his knee before dinner. Thanks a lot for all the infos delivered by users on this forum. I Baldy had the idea to begin my project before read enough ! So, I had to corrected some mistakes from the beginning. So let me begin my my small workplace in my basement house.
  6. Okay, before we get to the customary build log pictures (the boxing, unpacking etc etc) I feel the need - no, the obligation to explain why yet ANOTHER build log. For my Birthday last month I was told I would like my present but I HAD to do something with it right away. Well, it turns out that I received the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina. It seems my lovely wife has taken an interest in the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria and wants them in our office on display. So, we are starting with the Santa Maria. I figure if the Admiral is going to encourage another build far be it from me to say no . So, while I had no intentions of starting a new build with 4 on the table - this became a special case and special project. So. Away we go! Lets begin with the customary unboxing of the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina. (Because of the limit on uploading pictures I split this into two posts to get all pics in there).
  7. As I've mentioned to others here, my girlfriend has been dropping hints about this model for quite some time. So while she's away at her parent's place this week, I took the opportunity to exercise my Amazon Prime rights to get a kit in hand ASAP. So without further delay...
  8. Hi all, About a month ago I received the construction kit for my second ship by post. I finished my first ship, the President Scale 1:60 Sergal kit, for about two months now and couldn't wait to start a new ship. After some searching I finally chose the frigate "L 'Hermione La Fayette". Although I would normally not choose to fully paint the hull, in this case I think it has something. Due to my enthusiasm while building, I forget to open a ship build log, but, better late than never! What's in the box! Unfortunately no 1: 1 drawing for the exact measurements T Everything is neatly packed Sails After checking the parts, it appears that a strip of 6x6 mm is missing, luckily there was still one left from my previous ship. Music in the background, on your marks, let the build begin! 😄
  9. For my next ship build I decided to finally drag the Artesania Latina US Constellation kit out of my stash and start building it. It was given to me by a good friend as a birthday present 9 years ago and has languished on the shelf since then; partly because it was intimidating, but mostly because I did not have the work space big enough to set it up and build it and lastly I did not know where I would display it once built - still don't but that will be dealt with later on. Even the box it comes in is huge and intimidating. I first constructed a build board that will hold it. Unfortunately I routed a groove along the centerline of the board to hold the keel but when the keel sits down in the groove the bulkheads don't seat fully, so I set it flush on the board and screen small cleats alongside the keel to keep it upright and straight. Some startup photos are below: So far I have dry fit all the bulkheads, sanded them as needed and am now slowly gluing them in place use small pieces of aluminum angle to keep everything perpendicular to the false keel. At this point everything is just dry fit
  10. Hi all First build log but second build having just finished building the HMS Revenge by Ocre. Was a fairly basic model but I feel I learnt quite a lot doing it. Have purchased the AL Bounty kit after seeing a few of the build logs on here and quite liked the idea of the open side and the amount of detail you could put in it. It was a toss up between the Bounty and Caldercraft's Mary Rose but, in the end, the Bounty won. I'm going to be making quite a few additions to the interior as had been done in other logs as I feel it adds more to the model. I'm also going to have a go at adding some internal lighting to the ship as what's the point of the interior detail if you can't see it? I'm also planning on putting a bit of paint on the exterior to brighten it up a bit (just a little blue and yellow) After opening the box, spending a few hours reading the instructions and typing the part list up onto a spreadsheet to make identification and searching easier, I noticed that there's a number of pieces missing: 8mm brass rings, 0.6x6 basswood, 1x8 basswood and cloth for the bales plus there not being enough 0.6 x 3 basswod, 1 x 10 basswood, 1 x basswood, 3 x 5 basswod and ø6 dowells. As I was ordering more material to make additional cabins and features, I just re-ordered what was missing. I purchased the Billings boats slip to use for the bounty but have found it's no good for this model as the frames go right down to the bottom of the false keel. I've made my own version using a shelf, some angle brackets and some blocks of wood. Hopefully it gets the frames in a perfect position. One thing I could do with advice on is what is single planking and double planking? The bounty model is single planked but the Revenge model I made had 1 layer of basswood/lime planks and then you covered it with 0.6mm strips over the top. I really liked the finish this gave the model in the end and would like to do the same thing for the bounty (plus it hides the pin heads). Is this what is referred to as double planking and would anyone advise against it on the AL Bounty? Edit - have learnt this is called a veneer. No idea if it's the "done thing thing" or not, but I'm going to do it anyway. The Revenge took me a month and half to complete but I'm planning on spending a lot more time (I know it's going to take months/year(s)) on the Bounty to get it "perfect". I've made a start cutting the pieces out of the kit and have started the sanding/staining/varnish process as I like the walnut finish on the frames and false keel. Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated. Will keep you all updated and thanks for reading!
  11. I'm a first time model boat builder just getting started and still at the planning stage. Some questions about the scary bit - planking! - Firstly is there any good reason to attach the planks with nails? It seems to me that the stresses created by nailing will tend to warp the plank and prevent it flowing smoothly from stem to stern. - I'm stunned by the variety of methods available for bending planks; hot water soaking, curling iron heat, crimping tool etc. Which one is best for a beginner? I'm inclined to what I call the crimping tool. - I've decided that, as a novice, single planking with lots of filler and a painted finish would be the best approach. Thoughts? As part of my planning I've carefully read several of the build logs for this kit. Most of them make me think "I could probably do that", then I read Steve 12345's and my reaction was "Never in a month of Sundays"!!!
  12. I've been on a little hiatus since I completed my Medway Longboat a few weeks ago and I have been mulling over too many choices of what to build next. I have 10 models on the shelf which is way too many and, in addition to those, I was considering the Cheerful by Syren and the Lady Isabella by Vanguard. The Cheerful will have to wait since Chuck is temporarily closed and having problems with the USPS and the Byrnes table saw I was going to get is temporarily out of stock due to a shortage of 120V motors. I decided to wait on the Lady Isabella too since I would like to try my hand at weathering a working vessel like the Lady Isabella and I want to learn to use my airbrush before I dive into that kind of a build So that left me deciding on a model that I already have and two of them kept drawing my attention: the Pride of Baltimore II by Model Shipways and the Pen Duick by Artesania Latina. I had picked up the AL model of the Pen Duick last year on eBay. It was out of production and, of course, AL is no more. After looking over the 3 Pen Duick build logs here on MSW and reading more about its owner, Eric Tabarly, and his phenomenal history racing the Pen Duick, my interest in her grew and she got the nod. It will also give me a chance to learn to use my airbrush that was a Christmas gift from my wife this year. There have been a series of 6 Pen Duick ocean racing yachts. The original Pen Duick, a gaff rigged cutter, was built in Ireland in 1898. Eric Tabarly's father acquired her in 1938 when Eric was 7 years old and taught him how to sail on her. Eric went on to become one of the most legendary, long distance racing sailors in the history of the sport winning and setting records in transatlantic and transpacific races among many others. The Pen Duick eventually fell into disrepair and the hull rotted after World War II. Eric began restoring her in 1956 and completed the restoration in 1958 with a new polyester resin hull. Tragically, Eric Tabarly drowned in the Irish Sea on the night of June 12-13, 1998, when he was knocked overboard by a spar. His body was recovered by the trawler An Yvidig on July 20. Eric Tabarly in 1990: The Pen Duick: The AL model of the Pen Duick is based on the boat after she was restored in 1958. I found the materials nicely packaged and everything appears to be there although I haven't inventoried it yet. The false keel and bulkheads are nice plywood and the laser cutting is clean. There are also some mahogany laser cut parts. Planking strips of ramin and mahogany along with some African walnut dowels for the mast etc. The brass fittings are very nice and there are some white metal fittings and brass strips. The belaying pins are the typical, ugly, bulbous ones that are in so many kits. I'm sure I'll end up making new ones and I will probably replace the blocks and rope with some from Syren. The sails leave a lot to be desired and they don't match up in size with the plans. I might have to learn how to sew.... There are two, large, double sided sets of plans and they appear to be 1:1 but that is not indicated on the plans. The sails certainly do not match up with the plans either; they're too small. The instructions are in several languages including English but they are very brief. The instructional photos are a bit more help but I'll still be flying by the seat of my pants trying to figure things out. I want to try and do the deck planking with joggles as shown below. The kit simply has a straight piece of mahogany laid down the middle of the boat from the stem to the stern. The build by hof00 here on MSW was done this way and he explains how he did it. I think it will be tough to get all those joggles laid out and cut correctly and to be able to plank the deck so it's symmetrical on both sides. This will be a long shot for me but I'll give it a go and see how big of a mess I can make.... I picked up this used book on eBay hoping that it would have some nice photos in it but it's more about the various versions of the Pen Duick and their racing history. It is a very good read though. I have the feeling, for whatever reason, that this build may turn into a rather directionless adventure for me. I hope some of you will take an interest in following along and, perhaps, steer me in the right direction when you see me veering off into the abyss. So here we go...
  13. This is my second build as an elderly novice builder. My first build was the Billings Bluenose,which although was a bad choice for a novice because of 1:100 scale was very "finicky" and frustrating for a builder with less than perfect eyesight and arthritic fingers. However I learnt an immense amount and gained valuable experience. I bought this quite elderly Scottish Maid kit second hand off eBay very cheap as ,as often happens,the original owner received it as a gift from his wife for Christmas but was dismayed to open it to discover simply a box full of wood and some plans. He didnt wish to undertake what he saw as a highly complex endeavour so stuck it on top of his wardrobe. Just finished checking the contents and all appears to be there.Looking forward to building a larger boat (1:50 scale). So mon braves I will post my struggles,successes and errors. ( of which there are likely to be many) so anyone following the build will doubtless feel much happier about their own builds .:)
  14. Those of you paying attention to the title may have noticed that I have given the scale as 1/64, where the AL kit is marketed as 1/50. Why the difference? This first came to light when I compared the plans I had obtained from the Brunel Institute with the parts in the kit. It appeared that the parts supplied were a few inches too short for a 1/50 scale model. Where was the mistake? I checked the dimensions of the plans and the scale bars were correct: 10 feet was equivalent to 2.4 inches. Next I got out the MacGregor book ‘Fast Sailing Ships’ and checked the size of the Scottish maid. Now the exact size is not known for certain but according to the builders certificate the length is 92.4ft nm. At 1/50th scale this would give a hull length of about 22.2 inches between the aft side of the stem and the fore side of the sternpost. Using just the parts of the model it is difficult to get an accurate measurement. But I would give this dimension as 16.4 inches for the model. This actually gives a scale of about 1/67, but I have chosen 1/64 as that is the nearest commonly used scale. Also other measurements, such as the distance between masts, give slightly different results. I feel cheated I have purchased a 1/50th scale kit which should have a hull 22.2 inches long (nm) and instead only have a hull which is 16.4 inches long (nm). I feel cheated out of 5.8 inches of hull. I suppose it does give the dimensions of the model on the box, but I wanted to make a 1/50 scale model not a 1/64 scale model (grumble, grumble). Well, I suppose I have what I have. The only way to get a 1/50 scale model would be to throw away the kit and scratch build. I could not bring myself to do this, too much waste, so I will just get on with it. Apart from that the Admiral would keel haul me if she knew I had spent about £90 on a kit and had then binned it. I did think seriously of scratch building this. In the end I went for a kit as it would give me everything I needed to get started in one easily purchased package. There is very little in the kit that could not easily be made from scratch. Also in general the material in the kit is of good quality, especially the wood. The majority of which is cleanly cut and as flat as could be hoped for. There are some Items I will be replacing, but aren’t there always. The primary reference material that I will use for this build in addition to what is supplied with the kit is: · David R MacGregor, Fast sailing Ships, Conway 1973 & 1988. · David R MacGregor, Lines & Deck plan, Sail plan, Brunel Institute · T W Ward, Reconstructed drawing of Scottish Maid unloading at a London wharf, Brunel Institute · D Hamby, Scottish Maid A nineteenth century packet schooner, MS 94, 1995 · J G Heard MD, The English merchant schooner Scottish Maid NRJ Volume 58 No 4, 2013 The Hamby model is built to a scale of 1/48 and the Heard Model to a scale of 1/96. Neither have sails and they portray the ship quite differently. Lack of sails is useful when using pictures for reference as details of the models can be seen more easily. I will be including sails on my model. In my next post I will run through what is in the kit and my first impressions. Glenn
  15. Well I'm settled enough in my new place to get started on a build. I'll call this my first build as any experience I have had, was a long. long time ago. Model is about 35 years old (guesstimate) of the Charles W Morgan my Artesania Latina. This model was donated a couple of years ago to the Living Boat Trust, I group of which I'm a member. The LBT maintain and occasionally build, wooden boats in Franklin, Tasmania. Bulkheads are router cut. Not sure if this would have been CNC given the age of the model. DIe cut parts, no lasers here! Lots of little plastic bags. I've got some partitioned containers to put these in. I think I have the necessary tools assemled. I just need to make up a board on which to build it and maybe a keel clamp - I have some aluminium extrusion and 3D printed clamps for that. Don't pull up a chair just yet, this could take a while! Regards Geoff
  16. Mayflower 1620 - 2020 Dutch Cargo Fluyt - ca. 1608 Artesania Latina 1:64 scale Hi all, this is my first instalment of my first ship model. Ship modeling is a new genre for me, having built so far only aircraft plastic scale models. For this start-off of mine, I chose the kit of the Mayflower from Artesania Latina. My choice was driven by its reasonable price and by its rating as a kit of medium difficulty. In addition, this month, on September 16th, it is exactly 400 years since when the Mayflower finally set out from Plymouth for her historical voyage that brought the Pilgrim Fathers to America after a first attempt from Southampton in August of the same year. I live in the Netherlands, in the outskirt of the city of Leiden, the city where the Pilgrims Fathers resided for 12 years before their departure. The city of Leiden is celebrating this anniversary with several events spread over the year. Considering all these connections, I though that the Mayflower was a nice and motivated choice for my first build. The parts of the kit are of good wood quality and are quite precisely cut. The bulkheads and the keel need just a bit of filing to facilitate their assembling. This is the basic structure just assembled out of the box on my workbench.
  17. I first saw a model steamboat being built over 35 years ago. I was impressed with the model but never thought that was something I could ever tackle. I was able to locate a kit after AL went out of business. I was not going to do a build log since it looked like this kit would no longer be produced. However, with AL new ownership this kit is available once again. The bulkheads fit snugly and squared easily. The only issue was that bulkheads 4 and 5 were mislabeled. Note that the sternboard was not put on at this time although the instructions indicate to do it. Gluing it on at this point can result in an incorrect angle as noted in other build logs.
  18. I got this kit in the mail last weekend from micro mark. I got it out that night and started going through everything. A few days later started cutting bulkheads and the keel out. Dry fitted everything and then eyeballed the keel. Man is it twisted.
  19. Hi everyone, Here is my slow-time build log of the Dallas Cutter. The pictures are a bit rough and ready and were taken originally as a memory jogger for myself...little did I know.... 😉 The Dallas was started 25 years ago and I got as far as finishing the hull before the project was put into cold storage. Here is the front cover of the box which contained all the parts, 3x very good layout drawing sheets and a (sometimes confusing) 15 page Instruction Booklet 25 yrs ago the hull starts to get the planking fitted. Hull planking finished. Decking started. Hull and decking finished, mostly. June/July 2020. Deck fittings etc installed. Some parts highlighted with 'Canadian Cedar' Danish Oil. Railings being installed. Note: new £15 battery powered Banggood 'Dremel' bottom right. It works OK and battery lasts a reasonable time. However the supplied brass collets don't have their holes drilled in the centre of the collet so drills cut slightly large (and vibrate). I also have an actual battery powered Dremel + extension cable, but it is a bit heavy handed for the finer work. Almost ready for masts and rigging. Dummy deck idea, to facilitate the assembly of mast and rigging away from the 'real' ship to prevent damage to deck fittings. I'm unsure whether I'll actually use this dummy deck...might just fit straight onto real ship....pondering. OK, that's it for now. Any advice/comments gladly received. All the best, Richard
  20. This will be my build log for AL's "Independence 1775". First let me say that this is an entirely fictional vessel, much like Al's Swift or Harvey. It is , however, representative of the colonial schooners built in America between 1763 and 1775. Harold Hahn covers these ships in his book "The Colonial Schooner - 1763 - 1775". I was drawn to the vessel because of her lines, and especially the bluff bow. But what convinced me to build this model was the excellent build log of Clare Hess: http://www.shipsofscale.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=539 Clare is building the model on commission and has seriously kit-bashed the build. The result is a beautiful , if fictional, colonial schooner circa 1775. The first problem with the kit is the scale. The box cover lists the model as 1:35 scale. At that large scale, the model would be very small...smaller in fact than "Sultana", the smallest schooner known to have been built. A vessel that tiny would never be able to be armed with 4 carriage-mounted cannons. What to do? Clare decided to build the model in 1:48 scale. I chose a different path. After researching both the "Halifax" and "Sultana" in Hahn's book, I discovered that if I built the kit in 5/16" scale, the model would be a little smaller than "Halifax" but larger than "Sultana". She should be able to carry 4 three-pounder cannons. The 5/16" scale is unusual, and it translates to 1:38.4! Convieniently this works out to 8 mm = 1 inch, a convenient ratio. So I'll be building "Independence" using metric measurements. I completed the hull framing and reinforced the framing with blocks. Probably overkill, but the bulkheads are plywood and very hard. Fairing the hull would put a lot of stress on them so I decided better safe than sorry. I plan to use the same wood scheme as Clare: boxwood decking, boxwood and swiss pear hull planking. I will used redheart for the inboard bulwark planking and the deck furniture ordinarily painted red.
  21. Building the Artesania Latina(AL) San Juan Nepomuceno (SJN). The kit was purchased in Barcelona in a modeler’s shop called Casa Palau (Home Palau). The name Palau has some distant and fond memories, when on a navy pass, Palau was my first stage of a long trip to my home in North Eastern Italy . This was in my younger days when I was in the Italian Navy School at the Island of La Maddalena in Northern Sardinia. I commenced building this kit in May 2015 under the supervision of the ever-present Smokey my loving cat which died of cancer in February 2017. After that I was unable to give any attention to the model for more than 2 months. In August 2018 I had a surgical intervention on my left hand which I am still recovering from very slowly. The SJN is my second model, the first being the (AL)HMS Endeavour. Having said that, I was introduced to this hobby by my wife having received this wonderful model on my 60th birthday. I was somewhat puzzled then as I didn’t have a clue, or the know how, in building 18 centuries wooden ships models. My wife’s idea for me in having this kind of hobby for my retirement present was fantastic, but as I realized very quickly, that this was not going to be an easy task . However, in the meantime, I was recalled by my ex employer and worked as consultant for another 5 years, consequently the kit remained in the box. Finally, in between many trials and tribulations the (AL) HMS Endeavor was completed in 2013. After that challenge I was’’ bitten’’ by the hobby. What surprises me is that two years later instead of going for an easier model I went for even a more challenging one, maybe it is the nature of my character. I must emphasize that the AL SJN kit was marred from the very beginning. The AL Elite Series are made by their branch in Hong Kong and it shows in the quality and parts some of which were undersupplied and some oversupplied. The kit’s wooden parts are all in walnut, however in my kit most the sticks and dowels were all warped , the plywood wood quality was horrendous as the glued compressed sides came apart easily, even when filing it with a simple nail file. The false keel was packed in plywood as well. Coupled with all this, the main bulkhead frame was warped, the cannon bores were of centre and one anchor was twisted. This is a cat.4 difficulty but the difficulty is compounded even more due to the poor quality of the parts. However, AL kindly assisted me during this time, right up to now and although the parts took some time to get to Cape Town (8 weeks) , their response and support is very good. In South Africa it is very difficult to get tools and parts for this hobby, and what is available on line is at an horrendous price due to our currency being worth a fig!! And the delivery costs are prohibitive un less you want to mortgage your house !! I can’t count the amount of hours spent on this kit , neither my exasperation, confusion, satisfaction, and fascination. I have added some extra details that are not part of the kit or the given drawings. Therefore, one must adapt, plan, and use brain resources. During my ship modelling I had help from a friend in the USA a lot of encouragement from my wife. Hopefully the attached phots will encourage beginners like myself. SAN JUAN NEPOMUCENO HISTORY: San Juan Nepomuceno was a Spanish ship of the line launched in 1765 from the royal shipyard in Guarnizo (Catanbria). Like many 18th century Spanish warships she was named after a saint (John of Nemomuk). She was a solidly built ship of proven seaworthy qualities. Captured by the British Royal Navy during the Battle of Trafalgar, the ship was renamed first HMS Berwick, then HMS San Juan. The ship was discarded in 1816. Design and description Her sister, were San Pascual, San Francisco de Asis, San Lorenzo, Santo Domingo and San Augustin. She was originally fitted with a total of 74 cannons: 28 24-pounders, 30 18-pounders, 8 12-pounders and 8 8-pounders, and was manned by 8 officers, 11 midshipmen, 19 leading seamen and 492 able seamen (530 total). Her supply capacity was for 60 days victuals and 80 days water. Service history She rendered numerous important services to the Armada, some of them in the Caribbean where she participated in several sieges and was distinguished in 1779. In 1793, she took part in the Anglo-Spanish occupation of Toulon under the command of Admiral Don Juan de La’ngara. Four years later, in 1797, she was part of a Spanish fleet under Teniente General Jose’ de Cordoba y Ramos at fought against the British at the Battle of Cape St. Vincent. Battle of Trafalgar The Battle of Trafalgar is the historical feat in which she participated and of which we have the best account. In spite of being dismasted by Admiral Nelson’s artillery on 21 October 1805, she achieved glory in this battle under the command of the commander Don Cosme Damian Churruca and constituted for the Spaniards a handsome example of the heroism of their nation and the bravery of their sailors. San Juan Nepomuceno was one of the last ships still fighting after most of the French ships had surrendered and most of the Spanish ships had either been captured or had yielded. The commander, Don Cosme Churruca, had previously ordered for the flag to be nailed to the highest mast.] At the time, it was commonplace for ships to signal surrender by lowering their nation’s flag. 'Nailing the flag' was a way to tell the enemy, allies, and indeed the ship's own crew and officers not to expect an easy surrender. As the hours passed Churruca, whose leg had been torn off by a cannonball] the deck of his ship covered by the blood of his wounded and dead seamen, continued to stubbornly order his ship's batteries to fire. Mortally wounded, the Basque-born Churruca prohibited his officers from surrendering and ordered them to continue returning fire whilst he remained breathing. His officers kept their word, even after Churruca died and command of the ship had been passed to the second -in command, Francisco de Moyna,] who continued the fight until he himself was killed. He was replaced by the next officer in command who also refused to surrender. However, unable to break the circle of fire formed by the six enemy ships, including Defiance, Tonnant and Dreadnought, and in order to prevent the ship from sinking with all the wounded trapped below, the last officer left alive in San Juan Nepomuceno yielded with over 400 dead and injured on board. Royal Navy service After Trafalgar, the ship was taken into British service and briefly renamed HMS Berwick before adopting the name HMS San Juan. In honour of Churruca's courage, the cabin he had occupied while alive bore his name on a brass plate, and all who entered it were required to remove their hats as a mark of respect for a gallant enemy. She initially served as a base hulk at Gibraltar from 1805 to 1808 before being recommissioned in September 1808 as a prison ship under Commander John Gourly.[ During the Penisula War San Juan was fitted to act as flagship to a flotilla of gunboats based in Gibraltar. For this task she was re-rated as a Sloop and placed under the command of Commander Thomas Vivion, who was the first flotilla commander, taking post in 1810. He was followed subsequently by Commander James Tillard who took command in 1812. There were a total of fourteen lieutenants under his command, each of whom took charge of one of the gunboats in the flotilla. As the gunboats had little capacity for accommodation, the lieutenants were assigned to, and lived aboard San Juan. In later service San Juan acted as flagship to the admirals appointed as Commander-in-Chief Gibraltar. In 1813 she was flagship to Rear Admiral Samuel Hood Linzee with Captain John Fraser acting as flag captain. In 1814 she was flagship to Rear Admiral Charles Elphinstone Fleeming with Captain Gardiner Henry Guion acting as flag captain. Her final commission began in October 1814 when she reverted to her original role as a base hulk under the command of Lieutenant Charles M'Kenzie. San Juan was finally paid off and sold at Gibratalr on 8 January 1816.] Sources & references · John D. Harbron, Trafalgar and the Spanish Navy (1988) ISBN 0-87021-695-3 · Rif Winfield, British Warships in the Age of Sail 1793-1817 (2005) ISBN 978-1-84415-717-4 · Robert Gardiner, Frigates of the Napoleonic Wars (2000) ISBN 978-1-86176-292-4 · Historia del navío de línea San Juan Nepomuceno (in Spanish)
  22. Hi all, I am back after a long absence. I have now retired so have lots of time for my favourite hobby. I have started to build the AL King of the Mississippi. I like AL's kits. The instructions can be a bit vague at times, but the photo instructions are mostly easy to follow. Paul
  23. Hello everyone. This is my first model ship kit and - after running into a snag (more on that in a bit) - I found this forum. I was encouraged to start a build log. I received this kit a few years ago from my father-in-law. He finished a similar kit while he was in medical school, and he thought it would be a good project for me while I was finishing my doctoral thesis. Unfortunately, the thesis took the front seat and I never had a chance to start the kit. Fast forward five years, we're all stuck at home and I no longer have an excuse. I began this kit around the end of March, so I'm around two months into it at this point. I won't belabor a discussion on the Virginia - I can see that there are plenty of descriptions on this site. Suffice to say - it is apparently not a model of any real ship, but rather an imagining of a common type of ship of the era. It's a very pretty kit, and the quality seems to be rather high for the most part (though I have no other kit to judge from). For a "novice" kit, the documentation is rather lacking and uses ship lingo heavily, though this has been nice to force me to learn everything. Anyway, to the build. Here you can see the false keel and a bundle of the raw materials - mostly ramin, applewood, and mahogany. Here it is partway through decking. I chose to go with a simple decking pattern, and marked the sides of the laths with pencil. I was not very consistent with the deck lengths at this stage, unfortunately, which is noticeable later on. Next up was putting on the first layer of pieces on the hull. I did not find that any heat was necessary - soaking the pieces in warm water for 30 minutes was enough to provide the elasticity to match the proper curve. Of note: I hammered the brads in the entire way rather than nipping off. This made things a bit harder later on when filing smooth, but was not a huge issue (for any future builders). With the first layer down, I filed and sanded smooth, and filled in anything large cracks with a homemade putty (there was plenty of sawdust...). This was required mostly along the border of where the bulwarks were attached. I don't have any pictures, but the bulwarks did not quite match the curvature (you can see a bit of the putty job to the far right). Here is the transom - note that I attached the keep prior putting the mahogany on, so as to assure that the mahogany abutted the keel perfectly. Note that I left plenty of overhang for the stern post (I think this may be a common error in this build, more on it later). I did not bend my transom to have a curve, and instead opted to go flat. I regret this somewhat, as the slight curve is nice - but that bird has flown. And a few pictures mid-way with the mahogany: And finally finished (here you can see most of the deck fittings and the rudder). The stern post is now fitted, and the transom does not hang past it much. If you cut the keel flush with the stern, then the stern post will sit too low and the transom will jut out past the stern post - creating issues when attaching the rudder. I believe this to be in error. I've read a few build posts that state this is a flaw in the kit, but I contend that it is an error in the build - I have no issues with fitting everything in as-is at this point. On to the railings. The kit recommends cutting the applewood struts to 14mm and 17mm, but this requires a substantial amount of filing/sanding (which would be required for leveling anyway) and thus plenty of breaking off struts and re-gluing. If I did it again, I would opt for something more like 11mm and 16mm, which is much closer to the final height. You can also see that I've added in the applewood rubbing strakes at this point, as well. ...and here I've glued on the pieces for the helmsman's traction. You can also see some pieces I've added to the transom - unfortunately, I broke the transom internally while sanding. It left no visible damage on the ramin veneers, but it was loose. I cut a couple of rib stiffeners made out of scrap applewood and tried to make them look purposeful. They did the trick (adapt, right?). Here you can see the stiffeners again - the transom is solid and no longer wobbles. I've begun to put the railing on at this stage. Here there does seem to be an error with the kit - the curvature of the railing is far greater than the curvature of the bulwarks and thus the railing struts - so much so that I do not believe I have made an error. I have adapted by tracing the curvature of the top of the struts onto paper, connecting with a french curve, and chopping the railings (originally two pieces) into four pieces to better match the curvature. You can also see in this photo that I've attached the hawses. Fast forwarding to the current stage: ...and this is where I currently am. Of note: some of the deck fittings were pre-cast (such as the bowspirit masthead columns,). They did not look great, so I opted to make them out of wood instead. Same with the water pump handle, the anchor tie-offs, and the carronade quoin. I may fashion a piece for the rudder, as well. At this point, I have glued everything to the deck. This is how I discovered the forum, because reading on I have discovered that I should have applied finish before gluing anything on the deck. I do not have much glue squeeze out at all, so I think I am just going to apply spray-on satin poly and hope for the best, and will wipe on any poly carefully in places that coverage is poor. I will likely remove all of the brass fittings and attempt to blacken a bit - as they have not been glued (except for the "foremast spanker sheet" - the large piece near the cargo hatch - it has been glued in and will remain brass!). I will likely leave the brass brads in the rubbing strake, as I like the sheen there and don't want to weather them at all I hope the poly will cover them fine.
  24. Hello to all. This is my first attempt at a build log for my current project. This will be my third build, the first is the Bluenose by Billing Boats which is currently waiting for deck materials. My second build was the Hannah ship in a bottle which is finished. So while waiting for the Bluenose deck, I have started on Le Renard. So, here we go! First a picture of the box. And it's contents.. Everything looks very good, no warped or cracked parts, and everything was well packaged. The instructions looks great, one for the hull and one for the rig. There is no fullsize plan though. So I started at page one, and that is with the basic hull skeleton assembly. First I removed all the bulkheads and keel from their cutouts(?) and sanded off the little points that hold them. One of the bulkheads had a little fault from the production of the plywood sheet itself. I'll fill this with a thin piece of wood and glue.. Then dryfitting of all the parts, all the slots were a little loose, so the bulkheads will need clamping with a square while the glue dries. As seen here the bulkheads lean left and right due to the loose fit. At least the loose fit will give room for glue. Everything seems to fit together, and it looks kinda like in the instructions, so time to open the glue bottle. Don't you just love that new glue bottle all clean and shiny, and say to yourself, "this time I'm gonna keep it clean and the tip nice and open" Yeah, at least I know how long that's gonna last..😁 First bulkhead glued in, all square and true! Not a whole lot done, but I think it's a good start! Stay safe out there and enjoy your models! Gaffrig
  25. Hello All, This is my first build log as I am returning to this hobby after many years as I was lucky enough to be given the Red Dragon as a Christmas gift. I am looking forward to building this model and will certainly appreciate any and all comments along the way! Thanks again for all the kind welcome notes after my first post last week. Opening the box was actually a pleasant surprise as I found a neat, shrink wrapped package containing all the items, including a plastic box with all the fittings. Very different to the box mayhem that I remember from over 20 years ago when all the components were mostly left to freely roam around the box. The instructions were disappointing, being nothing more than a basic listing of the build order complementing a nicely printed, but detail-limited plan sheet. On the plus side, there was a nice set of photos of the model at different build stages. Even though the box was unopened, I still did the inventory that many of you mention doing in your logs and happily I found nothing missing. The laser cut parts seemed accurately done when I checked what I could against the plans, but keel and frames seemed rather thin. Fitting quality overall was OK. On to the build! After making a build stand, the first step was to check the false keel against a straight edge and surprise (!) there was some warping. Fortunately, soaking the keel and gently clamping it for a couple of days seemed to correct the problem. The frames were pretty straight and quite symmetrical, perhaps a nice benefit of the laser cutting. As the keel was so thin, I glued bracing strips along each side to reinforce it and also increase the frame gluing areas. After cutting the frame slots in these strips, I spent a few hours sanding out the slots until the frames fit snugly. A dry fit showed things to be lining up well as far as I could see in both vertical and horizontal directions, so the next step is to glue them together. Attached a few photos. Thanks for reading. Nigel.

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