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Found 372 results

  1. Hi everyone, Here is my slow-time build log of the Dallas Cutter. The pictures are a bit rough and ready and were taken originally as a memory jogger for myself...little did I know.... 😉 The Dallas was started 25 years ago and I got as far as finishing the hull before the project was put into cold storage. Here is the front cover of the box which contained all the parts, 3x very good layout drawing sheets and a (sometimes confusing) 15 page Instruction Booklet 25 yrs ago the hull starts to get the planking fitted. Hull planking finished. Decking started. Hull and decking finished, mostly. June/July 2020. Deck fittings etc installed. Some parts highlighted with 'Canadian Cedar' Danish Oil. Railings being installed. Note: new £15 battery powered Banggood 'Dremel' bottom right. It works OK and battery lasts a reasonable time. However the supplied brass collets don't have their holes drilled in the centre of the collet so drills cut slightly large (and vibrate). I also have an actual battery powered Dremel + extension cable, but it is a bit heavy handed for the finer work. Almost ready for masts and rigging. Dummy deck idea, to facilitate the assembly of mast and rigging away from the 'real' ship to prevent damage to deck fittings. I'm unsure whether I'll actually use this dummy deck...might just fit straight onto real ship....pondering. OK, that's it for now. Any advice/comments gladly received. All the best, Richard
  2. This is my First Build since I was a child, My first boat is unfinished and gathering dust at my Mothers house with copious amounts of filler. Im going to have lots of questions and I'm hoping to find some good tips here.
  3. Hello! This is my first ever post on MSW. A friend and I recently found out about ship building and through looking at kits and build videos, we were immediately hooked - fortunately, it only took a couple days of "research" until we found MSW. Before we even had kits in our hands, we read through many build logs - the resources here are tremendously helpful, thank you all!!!! I have little woodworking experience and no modeling experience, but I was ready for the challenge. Looking at all of the beautiful boats on here is quite inspirational, and certainly narrowed my "type" of model to a wooden ship kit. As a college student, I was on a budget when looking for my first kit. The Swift kit by Artesania Latina seemed like a common starter kit, which I liked (there are already many build logs for this boat which is largely why I chose it!) I managed to find a "new" kit (the older version from 1982) on ebay for $70 with some tools/stand included. I have already started building so I will add to this thread. Bear with me - this is most likely going to be messy and slow!!!! Thanks again to everyone who's log I have already read.
  4. Hello to all. This is my first attempt at a build log for my current project. This will be my third build, the first is the Bluenose by Billing Boats which is currently waiting for deck materials. My second build was the Hannah ship in a bottle which is finished. So while waiting for the Bluenose deck, I have started on Le Renard. So, here we go! First a picture of the box. And it's contents.. Everything looks very good, no warped or cracked parts, and everything was well packaged. The instructions looks great, one for the hull and one for the rig. There is no fullsize plan though. So I started at page one, and that is with the basic hull skeleton assembly. First I removed all the bulkheads and keel from their cutouts(?) and sanded off the little points that hold them. One of the bulkheads had a little fault from the production of the plywood sheet itself. I'll fill this with a thin piece of wood and glue.. Then dryfitting of all the parts, all the slots were a little loose, so the bulkheads will need clamping with a square while the glue dries. As seen here the bulkheads lean left and right due to the loose fit. At least the loose fit will give room for glue. Everything seems to fit together, and it looks kinda like in the instructions, so time to open the glue bottle. Don't you just love that new glue bottle all clean and shiny, and say to yourself, "this time I'm gonna keep it clean and the tip nice and open" Yeah, at least I know how long that's gonna last..😁 First bulkhead glued in, all square and true! Not a whole lot done, but I think it's a good start! Stay safe out there and enjoy your models! Gaffrig
  5. I started this build almost 30 years ago. After completing the hull and deck fittings it was packed away (in newspaper dated 1986). I moved from to the US from the UK in 91 and brought it with me. Needing something to do to relax, I decided to restart the build and try my hand at masts and rigging. We'll see how relaxing tying small knots turns out to be! Progress so far: Basic inventory - except for rigging line, everything seems to be there. Damage - one pump handle is broken. Tools - purchased a few obvious hand tools; tweezers, rigging toolset, new x-acto blades, built a small (12"x24") workbench. Reading - as well as this site, I have copies of Ship Modeling Simplified (Frank Mastini) and Model Sailing Ships - Design and Construction (Robert F. Brien). Immediate to-do's: Read the books and plans - I need to get a better handle on terminology and techniques. Decide on any changes to existing hull work. Calculate size and quantities of rigging line - I'm thinking of using line from Syren. Start work on yards and booms. Some pictures: The original box Minor damage after a 3800 mile journey Lots still to do
  6. I've been on a little hiatus since I completed my Medway Longboat a few weeks ago and I have been mulling over too many choices of what to build next. I have 10 models on the shelf which is way too many and, in addition to those, I was considering the Cheerful by Syren and the Lady Isabella by Vanguard. The Cheerful will have to wait since Chuck is temporarily closed and having problems with the USPS and the Byrnes table saw I was going to get is temporarily out of stock due to a shortage of 120V motors. I decided to wait on the Lady Isabella too since I would like to try my hand at weathering a working vessel like the Lady Isabella and I want to learn to use my airbrush before I dive into that kind of a build So that left me deciding on a model that I already have and two of them kept drawing my attention: the Pride of Baltimore II by Model Shipways and the Pen Duick by Artesania Latina. I had picked up the AL model of the Pen Duick last year on eBay. It was out of production and, of course, AL is no more. After looking over the 3 Pen Duick build logs here on MSW and reading more about its owner, Eric Tabarly, and his phenomenal history racing the Pen Duick, my interest in her grew and she got the nod. It will also give me a chance to learn to use my airbrush that was a Christmas gift from my wife this year. There have been a series of 6 Pen Duick ocean racing yachts. The original Pen Duick, a gaff rigged cutter, was built in Ireland in 1898. Eric Tabarly's father acquired her in 1938 when Eric was 7 years old and taught him how to sail on her. Eric went on to become one of the most legendary, long distance racing sailors in the history of the sport winning and setting records in transatlantic and transpacific races among many others. The Pen Duick eventually fell into disrepair and the hull rotted after World War II. Eric began restoring her in 1956 and completed the restoration in 1958 with a new polyester resin hull. Tragically, Eric Tabarly drowned in the Irish Sea on the night of June 12-13, 1998, when he was knocked overboard by a spar. His body was recovered by the trawler An Yvidig on July 20. Eric Tabarly in 1990: The Pen Duick: The AL model of the Pen Duick is based on the boat after she was restored in 1958. I found the materials nicely packaged and everything appears to be there although I haven't inventoried it yet. The false keel and bulkheads are nice plywood and the laser cutting is clean. There are also some mahogany laser cut parts. Planking strips of ramin and mahogany along with some African walnut dowels for the mast etc. The brass fittings are very nice and there are some white metal fittings and brass strips. The belaying pins are the typical, ugly, bulbous ones that are in so many kits. I'm sure I'll end up making new ones and I will probably replace the blocks and rope with some from Syren. The sails leave a lot to be desired and they don't match up in size with the plans. I might have to learn how to sew.... There are two, large, double sided sets of plans and they appear to be 1:1 but that is not indicated on the plans. The sails certainly do not match up with the plans either; they're too small. The instructions are in several languages including English but they are very brief. The instructional photos are a bit more help but I'll still be flying by the seat of my pants trying to figure things out. I want to try and do the deck planking with joggles as shown below. The kit simply has a straight piece of mahogany laid down the middle of the boat from the stem to the stern. The build by hof00 here on MSW was done this way and he explains how he did it. I think it will be tough to get all those joggles laid out and cut correctly and to be able to plank the deck so it's symmetrical on both sides. This will be a long shot for me but I'll give it a go and see how big of a mess I can make.... I picked up this used book on eBay hoping that it would have some nice photos in it but it's more about the various versions of the Pen Duick and their racing history. It is a very good read though. I have the feeling, for whatever reason, that this build may turn into a rather directionless adventure for me. I hope some of you will take an interest in following along and, perhaps, steer me in the right direction when you see me veering off into the abyss. So here we go...
  7. For my next ship build I decided to finally drag the Artesania Latina US Constellation kit out of my stash and start building it. It was given to me by a good friend as a birthday present 9 years ago and has languished on the shelf since then; partly because it was intimidating, but mostly because I did not have the work space big enough to set it up and build it and lastly I did not know where I would display it once built - still don't but that will be dealt with later on. Even the box it comes in is huge and intimidating. I first constructed a build board that will hold it. Unfortunately I routed a groove along the centerline of the board to hold the keel but when the keel sits down in the groove the bulkheads don't seat fully, so I set it flush on the board and screen small cleats alongside the keel to keep it upright and straight. Some startup photos are below: So far I have dry fit all the bulkheads, sanded them as needed and am now slowly gluing them in place use small pieces of aluminum angle to keep everything perpendicular to the false keel. At this point everything is just dry fit
  8. Ok first of all hello guys and gals. It's been almost three years since my last log on here. I had built the Friesland by mamoli. The build log is still here. So I got this kit awhile ago on a buy, swap and sell page. It's an old one but the wood inside is very well preserved. No warping, The rubber bands holding the strips together has long since perished. Decide to have a crack at it and see where we go from there.
  9. Given the copious amounts of free time afforded by the Coronavirus lockdown, I decided to try my hand at building the Swift by Artesania Latina. I've just finished the planking, so I'll share some photos of my progress and a few brief comments. May 30, 2020 I purchased the kit on eBay from someone who had been carrying it around with them for 30 years or so. They included some old catalogs and tools from the 1980s which were a curiosity but this is what I was after: The kit was in perfect shape. No missing parts or warped wood and the bags were all sealed. I wasn't terribly scientific with the hull. I checked that all pieces were flat and extended pencil lines on the bulkheads from the slot to the top, checking for squareness. I then test fit all pieces, ensuring they were level with the top. I used some pretty high end tools to get everything nice and square: So here I made a bit of a mistake, which I didn't find out until later on. Bulkhead #5 was flush with the deck but the bottom bit closest to the keel was slightly above the hull line formed connecting bulkheads 4 and 6. I didn't realize at the time that this would cause a dip in the planking. We'll see how this plays out later. The provided small inner decks and filler blocks were no problem and were useful in ensuring squareness of the bulkheads. I took the opportunity to test some Satin minwax and did not like it at all (maybe because I only did one coat). I sat on this one for awhile. The stern filler block was a real bear. I didn't understand how to find the shape of this block from the plans, nor did I know about the old line plans available online. So instead of making these concave, I made them convex. It looked good though it was a deviation from other builds. With the hull structure (mostly) satisfactory, I then attached the upper deck. I saw some other build logs in which people had problems with this. I found it to be very straightforward by following the instructions included in the box. I traced a centerline on both sides and carefully marked out perpendicular lines for each bulkhead, then transferred those to the top. I then used the little brass nails provided with the kit to clamp the centerline and let the Weldbond dry overnight. This was pretty important because the upper deck bends in two axes, so it needs to be attached firmly before proceeding to the second bend. The next morning, I glued and nailed down the sides and used some rubber bands to help keep the shape. This was challenging because the rubber bands weren't all that strong. A couple of small clamps helped. I also managed to go through the sides of a couple of the bulkheads with my nails. But in the end, the deck laid flat with no gaps between it and the bulkheads. You'll notice that the quarterdeck has been attached as well. I was careful to bevel the stern filler block down, following the horizontal curve of the main deck. This enabled me to keep a consistent 1/8" distance between the two decks at all points. It's a small detail but it looks nice.
  10. OK. so against my better judgement and all sensible advice, given that I have never been into modelling previously (outside of a couple of basic plastic aircraft models for a Grandson) and have no knowledge of the nautical world and it's terminology, I am proceeding to build this kit. Most of my 'modelling time' over the last few weeks has actually been spent dipping into the many great forums on this site. My build is going to be super-slow as I read up on as much detail as I can find in relation to each tremulous step. First question. The bow filler piece that came with the kit (made of 'art wood') was markedly convex on both sides. I have sanded this back significantly so that there is now enough purchase afrea for glueing. As can be seen from the photo the bottom of this piece is never going to fit flush without a lot more sanding and I think if I do this the overall integrity of the shape will be lost. Is an option just to fill the underside gap and if so, how? Or do I just keep sanding? Cheers, Ji
  11. This is my second build, first was the GJOA by Constructo. Happy enough with that one apart from the sails and rigging work. Sails seemed a bit bulky material wise, and the rigging i was sort of clueless on,the writer of the instruction book seemed to give up long before reaching the rigging stage, so i winged it. Hadnt discovered this forum until recently, so hoping to do much better with the HMS Bounty by following some of the advice posted on here. Though whether i do the rigging and sails on this one is yet to be decided. I mostly lurk here reading other peoples logs for ideas and tips on how to do certain things. Wasnt sure whether to create one myself as my camera isnt the best, but ill give it a shot and hopefully keep it going. I need to get better lighting sorted which will hopefully make the photos a bit clearer. I started about a week ago. Very impressive box on opening it, well packaged. The drawings (Multiple!), written instructions and picture instructions all look very impressive, though from reading on here it seems these become less impressive further in. First task was to label all the precut sheets of wood for easier reference from the paper cut sheet, mark the frame numbers and then cut them out. Next was to sand the laser char off. Started by hand as i was afraid of taking too much off, but ended up using a dremel (cheap brand version) jammed in my vice with a sanding attachment on it to do the heavy work, finishing off with a narrow hand file. Not too sure how much you need to sand off, i dont get them spotlessly clean but the glue seems to hold anyway. Do kit manufacturers leave extra wood on the parts to account for sanding off the laser char? All sanded and dry fitted. The slip is the Hobbyzone small building slip,purchased for this build. Would have preffered the bigger one as you can rotate it, but didnt have the desk space. Though the small one can apparently turn 180 degrees either way, but i dont see how. The arms rotate, but they sit flush on the bottom, so one side can rotate up, but the other cant go down? The instructions werent the best for it, only several parts to it, but i still managed to glue several parts in the wrong place before i realised. 😄 Next task was to stain all the parts. I used Littlefairs Dark Walnut wood stain (Is it alright to mention brand names here?).One coat was enough, any more felt a bit too dark compared to the supplied walnut wood. Couldnt decide whether to stain the parts that get glue later or tape them off. Going by google apparently wood glue wont stick to stained wood, but ive seen alot on here glue onto the stain. Did a quick test and the glue seems to hold, so i coated everything. Perhaps not as strong as before, but enough for model purposes hopefully. I intend to follow Thomaslambo's way of doweling, and dowel some of the cross beams into the frames which should strengthen it all quite a bit anyway. I didnt stain the outside edges to give the planking a better grip, though i forgot some of them will be exposed in the open hull, though i intend to follow other builds again and veneer the exposed ply edges with 0.5mm walnut, think it will look a bit better than exposed ply layers. Ive fitted half of the frames now. They arent perfect,hoping once the decks etc are on it will square them a bit further.I messed about with the first 2 alot, the fore and aft, trying to get them as square as i could so that i could measure off of them,the ones after that were installed using a combination of 2 levels, a square, and some balsa jammers cut to size. Turns out my desk or floor has a run, so i had to glue packers to the bottom side of my building slip to get it level first of all. Then i could keep one level on the first frame which was set the day previously, making sure it stays level and then set the other frames with another level. The instructions state that the slots on the keel for the frames are at regular spacings. Maybe im interpreting that wrongly, but to me that means they should all be the same? They arent anyway, so i have several balsa jammers cut at 32,35 and 36mm so that i can clamp onto the previous frame when gluing up. Am also using the middle deck to align the frames, along with the jammers. First half of the frames are fitted, almost have the lower crossbeams fitted to them all, and thats the stage im at so far. I also moved desk in between those photos, as i outgrew my small one. So the computer is now on the small desk and my modelling stuff has taken over the large desk ! Looking towards the next parts. Id like to scratch build some of the interior cabins,fittings etc as several other build logs have done. I dont really need a wood lathe, but considering getting one to make some columns and bannisters etc for the stairs. We'll see 😉
  12. First build log for first ship attempt. Already planked realizing I should create a log to document it! So far I found planking to be pleasantly challenge. Love the fact that if you take your time, most mistakes can be sanded out! I minimized the number of nails when I planked and pulled many out after glue dried (tightbond capenter's glue and cy to "spot weld" when needed). I've got the rubbing strakes on and now working on the railing. Need to give a shout out to DocBlake for his keel clamp. I followed his sample images substituting wingnuts because I had them available. Awesome clamp!
  13. Didn’t take long for me to get the new kit opened and unboxed. I figured ill present the contents of the kit since it seems to be a less common kit on this website. I was initially planning on doing a master korabel but the hobby shop called me with too good of a deal to turn down. Upon opening the the box I was fairly impressed with the contents, especially after my recent build which was fairly basic. All of the parts are laser cut and pop out easy. I haven’t opened and closely inspected the die cast parts but at first glance looking through the case it all appears to be good quality. The sales came pre-sewn, which is a very nice touch. This will be my first attempt at assembling and planking a ship, so we will see how it goes.
  14. Hi Everyone. I hope that I am doing this right? I am not very IT savvy, however Hope to get it right one day. I am attempting the Cutty Sark as my first build, after doing little bit's previously. I am very new to modelling and find this site very informative. I never took many photos when I first started as there was no need at the time, however I have a few after I did the decking, I am a bit further on now so will take more pics when my new camera battery comes, "I let it run down too much and it wouldn't recharge?" Sorry about the big pic I don't know what happened, I thought it was resized. God bless everyone hope you all keep safe. Kind regards Martin.
  15. So I started on another kit but it proved to be a bit over my head so I have started with this kit. So far it has been straightforward. There seems to be enough plank work to get me ready for more advanced kits to come. I have NO experience and I’m building the kit On a limb 😬. I know I have plenty of advice and help from this forum and will be using it...a lot. Please lend all the Crits and advice you can give me. It will be a slow process as I’m sure most of these type kits are but so far it’s been very relaxing. Thanks for tuning in!
  16. Had this started 9 years ago, as usual life got in the way but managed to put a bit together here and there. Not worth starting a build log just to have it seem abandoned. Just started again the other day with a bit more time available. Building this for my Admiral who would love to travel on one, but because of her own issues barely leaves the house. Likeley to be a slow build so please bear with me. Progress so far. Hull built and planked Livestock area. I added tie rings to both side. You don't want animals fighting over the hay or running wild on deck! Hooks for the livestock area. Rounded tops so no animal injuries! Barn doors and hinge. Looks better from a normal viewing distance 🙂 And where would I be without my helper! Cheers for now, Bob
  17. I'm going to get a Artesania Latina Hellen kit from a friend. The hull as been put together, but that is as far as they got on it. I'm thrilled to get this kit, it's been out of production for a while and it peaks my interest, so I said what the heck, I get it and finish it. I comes with a 540 geared drive motor, speed control and a few extras. I'm not fond of plastic hulls, so I will see how it goes.
  18. Here goes! My first shot at building. I had purchased the AL Scottish Maid and quickly realized this is by no means a beginner project, thus it has been put aside. The Viking was actually started aprox. 6 months ago and for reasons unknow it sat gathering dust. First picture is obviously the hull and my work station. Being my first build log, my etiquette may be off please feel free to correct me David
  19. I started this build 6 years ago, got the hull bone and then stuff in life started ! Now my kids are 18 and 17 i finaly have time on my hands .....yay ! So i dicided i'd start builing again , since my restart ive spent about 20 hours on my ship i'll poste pics tonight . Cheers André
  20. Hello MSW. I am starting my AL Constellation kit I purchased from a fellow MSW member. As a newbie, I followed many of the build logs for a while and found them to be full of great ideas and advice. Hopefully, someone will benefit in the same way from mine. Cutting to the chase, I opened the box and did a parts list inventory... which took way longer than I anticipated. The way AL set up the parts list was "interesting" with regards to all the strips of wood. Instead of having a list of what should be in the box, i.e. 30 strips of this and 40 strips of that, you need to go through all 446 parts. Each part that was made from the various wood strips was listed with its approximate finished size. So if you needed 10 pieces of a part that were 30mm long you would have to measure off 300mm from one of the supplied strips. Unless you want to spend days checking everything it is a virtually impossible task. I would imagine someone at AL has already done this so why not supply a general what's in the box list along with the detailed list already given? I didn't bother checking the wooden strips, just the individual pieces. There were a few items that came up slightly short in the count like some deadeyes, blocks, belaying pins and some other minor things that can be picked up on-line or at a local hobby shop. What did surprise me is that there were no chains at all for the anchor and stern decor. No biggie, picked that up at a dept. store. Here is what was inside. Reviewing the instructions, it is a good thing I have an engineering background. They are somewhat vague but there are a lot of pics to go by. Then probably the most important part of the kit... the bubble wrap. I plan on taping it to the wall behind my chair so when I bang my forehead into the wall for doing something stupid it won't hurt so much!! My next step will be to set up my work area and create a fixture to squarely secure the keel while I start the framing (bulkheads). As with any project, if the frame is not right, the rest will follow as such.
  21. box of goodies! note i have already removed the main deck and frames. frames and deck assembeled. Next decision after planking is whether to install the deck beams before sanding the frames to shape to offer some support to the bulwark timbers as they are rather flimsy- especially the poop deck ones (instructions suggest sanding frames first). Keith
  22. Hello everyone. This is my first model ship kit and - after running into a snag (more on that in a bit) - I found this forum. I was encouraged to start a build log. I received this kit a few years ago from my father-in-law. He finished a similar kit while he was in medical school, and he thought it would be a good project for me while I was finishing my doctoral thesis. Unfortunately, the thesis took the front seat and I never had a chance to start the kit. Fast forward five years, we're all stuck at home and I no longer have an excuse. I began this kit around the end of March, so I'm around two months into it at this point. I won't belabor a discussion on the Virginia - I can see that there are plenty of descriptions on this site. Suffice to say - it is apparently not a model of any real ship, but rather an imagining of a common type of ship of the era. It's a very pretty kit, and the quality seems to be rather high for the most part (though I have no other kit to judge from). For a "novice" kit, the documentation is rather lacking and uses ship lingo heavily, though this has been nice to force me to learn everything. Anyway, to the build. Here you can see the false keel and a bundle of the raw materials - mostly ramin, applewood, and mahogany. Here it is partway through decking. I chose to go with a simple decking pattern, and marked the sides of the laths with pencil. I was not very consistent with the deck lengths at this stage, unfortunately, which is noticeable later on. Next up was putting on the first layer of pieces on the hull. I did not find that any heat was necessary - soaking the pieces in warm water for 30 minutes was enough to provide the elasticity to match the proper curve. Of note: I hammered the brads in the entire way rather than nipping off. This made things a bit harder later on when filing smooth, but was not a huge issue (for any future builders). With the first layer down, I filed and sanded smooth, and filled in anything large cracks with a homemade putty (there was plenty of sawdust...). This was required mostly along the border of where the bulwarks were attached. I don't have any pictures, but the bulwarks did not quite match the curvature (you can see a bit of the putty job to the far right). Here is the transom - note that I attached the keep prior putting the mahogany on, so as to assure that the mahogany abutted the keel perfectly. Note that I left plenty of overhang for the stern post (I think this may be a common error in this build, more on it later). I did not bend my transom to have a curve, and instead opted to go flat. I regret this somewhat, as the slight curve is nice - but that bird has flown. And a few pictures mid-way with the mahogany: And finally finished (here you can see most of the deck fittings and the rudder). The stern post is now fitted, and the transom does not hang past it much. If you cut the keel flush with the stern, then the stern post will sit too low and the transom will jut out past the stern post - creating issues when attaching the rudder. I believe this to be in error. I've read a few build posts that state this is a flaw in the kit, but I contend that it is an error in the build - I have no issues with fitting everything in as-is at this point. On to the railings. The kit recommends cutting the applewood struts to 14mm and 17mm, but this requires a substantial amount of filing/sanding (which would be required for leveling anyway) and thus plenty of breaking off struts and re-gluing. If I did it again, I would opt for something more like 11mm and 16mm, which is much closer to the final height. You can also see that I've added in the applewood rubbing strakes at this point, as well. ...and here I've glued on the pieces for the helmsman's traction. You can also see some pieces I've added to the transom - unfortunately, I broke the transom internally while sanding. It left no visible damage on the ramin veneers, but it was loose. I cut a couple of rib stiffeners made out of scrap applewood and tried to make them look purposeful. They did the trick (adapt, right?). Here you can see the stiffeners again - the transom is solid and no longer wobbles. I've begun to put the railing on at this stage. Here there does seem to be an error with the kit - the curvature of the railing is far greater than the curvature of the bulwarks and thus the railing struts - so much so that I do not believe I have made an error. I have adapted by tracing the curvature of the top of the struts onto paper, connecting with a french curve, and chopping the railings (originally two pieces) into four pieces to better match the curvature. You can also see in this photo that I've attached the hawses. Fast forwarding to the current stage: ...and this is where I currently am. Of note: some of the deck fittings were pre-cast (such as the bowspirit masthead columns,). They did not look great, so I opted to make them out of wood instead. Same with the water pump handle, the anchor tie-offs, and the carronade quoin. I may fashion a piece for the rudder, as well. At this point, I have glued everything to the deck. This is how I discovered the forum, because reading on I have discovered that I should have applied finish before gluing anything on the deck. I do not have much glue squeeze out at all, so I think I am just going to apply spray-on satin poly and hope for the best, and will wipe on any poly carefully in places that coverage is poor. I will likely remove all of the brass fittings and attempt to blacken a bit - as they have not been glued (except for the "foremast spanker sheet" - the large piece near the cargo hatch - it has been glued in and will remain brass!). I will likely leave the brass brads in the rubbing strake, as I like the sheen there and don't want to weather them at all I hope the poly will cover them fine.
  23. Thanks for the warm welcome, I am sorry it took so long to start this log. I have decided to start with a small beginners model as there is alot to learn. Starting with a picture of the box and contents, and the frame (bulkheads) which fits nicely, after some sanding, into a holder as part of the kit.
  24. Hi all, About a month ago I received the construction kit for my second ship by post. I finished my first ship, the President Scale 1:60 Sergal kit, for about two months now and couldn't wait to start a new ship. After some searching I finally chose the frigate "L 'Hermione La Fayette". Although I would normally not choose to fully paint the hull, in this case I think it has something. Due to my enthusiasm while building, I forget to open a ship build log, but, better late than never! What's in the box! Unfortunately no 1: 1 drawing for the exact measurements T Everything is neatly packed Sails After checking the parts, it appears that a strip of 6x6 mm is missing, luckily there was still one left from my previous ship. Music in the background, on your marks, let the build begin! 😄
  25. Unfortunately, I managed to delete my previous thread the other night, very clever of me. One Member, (Can't remember their "Handle"), was requesting information on the method used to perform the Deck Planking, but, I don't think that they had a chance to see my Post regarding this. Anyway, if they see this, they can ask again.... Over the next few hours, I'll post photos of the build thus far, for posterity and anyone else attempting this model.

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