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  1. I'll start by saying, I wasn't planning on doing a build log... There are a 15 logs for the same model on MSW already. However, at last check, only one was to completion. The other logs offer a lot of help and information but only as far as they go! So, even though I started the model 3 months ago, I did take pictures along the way and any details I may have left out can easily be found on the other logs. I pledge to keep this log running to the models completion, however long that takes. This is my 4th model and I continue to learn new techniques and ideas. I think that will never stop. There are so many masters on this forum! I hope, someday, to be as capable as them. I am attempting to keep this model as historically accurate as I can based on the plans and the book "The anatomy of a ship : The armed transport Bounty". Additionally, I will be aging or weathering the ship as I build it to give it that "realistic" look. This is the first time I've tried this method and as you'll see it has been challenging but also a lot of fun! Before I start, I'd like to thank several builders that have inspired and unknowingly helped me to this point. Many are still on my favorites list and all have build logs that you may want to reference too: Captain Al Cobr Grendel Rcmdvr Thomaslambo Tim Moore Trig There are probably a couple more that I missed... Okay, lets get started! I didn't bother taking pictures of the box, unpacking and indexing the parts. I'm sure there are plenty of those out there! I found the contents to be of very good quality and I was not missing any parts or components. The scale drawings and picture book are very detailed. The instruction book is probably a bit sparse if you are new to modeling. The picture book helps fill in some of the gaps but frankly, without some of the build logs, it would be very difficult in places. The first few steps are pretty straight forward: 1. Cut out the keel and frames 2. Sand the little tags off and remove the charred layer for better glue adhesion. 3. I chose to stain the frames and keel with a walnut stain, taking care to keep stain away from the areas to be glues. It took two coats to get to the color I wanted. The picture below was taken with just one coat. I purchased (prior to starting this model) a model ship building slip: It has been a great tool for holding the model and I expect to use it throughout the build. Look at the above log for more details... worth every penny! It is extremely important that the keel is kept straight and that each frame is installed plumb and level to the keel. This CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH!! If any of these are off, you'll struggle with it throughout the build. A word of caution... Make sure the table or bench is level too... If it isn't, make note of the difference and ensure that the identical difference is transferred to your model as you build it. As you can see in the pictures above the building slip has an attachment to help keep the frames at 90 degrees to the keel and the frames were leveled using a small level resting on the top of the frames before gluing and taping into place. Each frame was allowed to dry several hours before the next frames was added. More to come later today or tomorrow.
  2. Late to the website, but practicing with posting my first build done three years ago... Decades ago I built model airplanes (plastic) and had good eyesight, steady hands and a knack for detail. Fast forward and I have so-so eyesight, a tremor and a desire to be as detailed as I can within my limitations. I love small wooden boats, whaleboats in particular, so I picked up a kit off the internet in 2019. Little did I know that it would take over my discretionary income... Photos from the first few weeks will appear if I figure out the interface. Janelle IMG_2840 (1).HEIC IMG_2841 (1).HEIC IMG_2844.HEIC
  3. Hello everyone, I'm new to model ship building kits and to this site. I found this site while googling for information about the Constellation and have already learned more reading one topic here, than I have on anything else Google pulled up. It's been sitting on the shelf in my shed since 2003. It is one of the 3 models I bought from our local hobby shop which was going out of business. The others were the Swift and the Mayflower. These are the only kits I've built. Normally, I build train models, some from scratch, some from kits, some live steam, some electric, HO, O, 1:20.32 and 7/8ths. I finished the Swift in a short period of time compared to the Mayflower, which I started in 2006 and I'm just now getting to the rigging, I think that's due to the fact that this Mayflower is from a Billing's kit that looks nothing like the Mayflower II which is the prototype image I am going for. So I had to cut the bowsprit beak down 3/4" and add 3/4" to the back of the model. I also had to change the location of the masts. I've made a lot of mistakes on the Mayflower, and I want to make sure I don't make them on the Constellation. I think I'll move faster and with better results if I redraw the plans that came with the kit. I'm not sure when I'll get to building the Constellation but before I do, I am going to make sure I make the necessary changes to the plans that were included with the kit while I'm finishing up on the Mayflower. I've skimmed through this topic so far and got some good info: It helped me to confirm my suspicions that this kit is not actually the Frigate, but is more like the sloop in that it's transom is rounded while the real Frigate's transom was square. What I'm not sure about is, are the quarter deck and forecastle separated on the Frigate as Bill Morrison describes, or is the deck just one piece like it is on the plans and model shared by j11 on that same topic? I'm also wondering about the position of the Masts, the size of the masts and spars. There seems to be a lot of knowledgeable model ship builders on this site, and I'm pretty much a newbie so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction to some accurate plans. Thanks in advance for your help.
  4. Well I've been looking around and it would seem theres lots here in the know. I got a screaming deal on the model mentioned above. It was the one I really wanted. I cut out and sanded all the tits off the pieces and labelled each set in it's own clear bag. Got all set and I want to (would love to) hear from those in the know if there's a frame assembly glue that you all have had great success with? I think I'm good to start. Made jig to hold spine straight, and would love to hear. Mainly bout glue, BUT. If there's anything else that would start me off with more success. THANK YOU ALL SO VERY MUCH
  5. Hello All, First of all I guess I should state this is my first time building a wood ship. I received my Artesania Latina USS Constellation kit as a gift and after looking it over and getting ready to start I did some Interweb searches and came across MSW. I've been lurking on this site for about a month now looking at tips and other builds posted here. I have to say there are some Talented Builders on this site. So, after researching the USS Constellation I soon discovered that the Artesania Latina kit is really more or less the 1854 Sloop of War and does not really resemble the 1797 USS Constellation. With $12 dollars and Amazon's help I received a copy of Chapelle's "The American Sailing Navy" which has Humphrey's Building Draught for the 38-gun Frigates Constellation and Congress, so armed with what little information is available on the 1797 Constitution I began my build..........
  6. Hi All, Please check out the photo montage video of my 1:60 Scale Artesania Latina's Red Dragon Armed Chinese Junk Ship. The building started on May 12, 2020 and finished on July 22, 2020. I modified the ship by using some historical junk ships as design references. Hopefully, you will like the unique build. Thank you. Photo MONTAGE of building the Artesania Latina's Red Dragon
  7. The HMS Bounty set sail from England in August of 1787 on a Botanical mission. The famous mutiny occurred in July of 1789, nearly 2 years later. Captain Bligh and 18 other sailors were set adrift in the Jolly Boat designed for a maximum of 15 people, and not designed as an ocean going vessel. They were given minimal supplies. Captain Bligh and his men sailed the subject open boat 3,618 nautical miles to the Dutch settlement on Timor, part of today’s Indonesia. This boat was 23 feet long. They were provided with 5 days provisions, water, a sextant, nautical tables, charts and at the last minute 4 cutlasses were provided. I have had this kit in my closet for some time, and I thought I would assemble it since, 1) summer is fast approaching and I do not want to get involved in a complex boat build until next fall, when I may have more free time, and 2) but, if I wait until next fall, some of my newly acquired modeling skills may be forgotten. So, it seems like this is a good way to stay current, empty my closet, and be ready for something more challenging, later. The quality of the instructions and materials are typical of Artesania Latina. The instructions are to look at all the photographs and read all the documentation provided in the kit. I have done this, and I am ready to begin.
  8. Hello shipmates! Last year i started this new build. I decided to give the old Artesania Latina's Swift Pilot boat, a different look. I find this little schooner a very beautiful ship. When i started on shipmodeling, i did't have the opportunity to start with kits, so this kit it would have been the perfect kick start, but it didn't happened. So, 20 years later, i gave my self a second chance, and with the plans, i decided to give it a try, giving it a different look, as the manufacturers gave it. Unfortunatly we are not talking about a ship that it existed in the real life, so what you will see here is just a mix from differents ship of the era and the time, there is not a theorical basis to follow, i hope to reach a good port. But, enough talking, lets make same sawdust!! I'm posting some pictures from the first steps, up to today, and i'll keep reports from now on.
  9. This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points). If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey. Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing. This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him. Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there. I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice. I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction. Then things started to get fuzzy. I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was. The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong. This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing. Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build. I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey. I don’t like them, but I found them). I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables. A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper. This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied). I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good. The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor. The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on. The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking. To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded. The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with. The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place. Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off. I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead. As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look). I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up. As usual, any comments are welcome. Mark
  10. My first build. I bought the kit probably more than 30 years ago. So, I’m a late starter... Copyright date on kit box is 1984. My oldest has left the nest, so I guess I have room for a workshop! Step 1: Clean the dust off box. Also, thanks to Blackie and others for sharing their exceptional quality work and providing an inspiration to get started. My plans for going forward on this build are as follows, in this order: 1. Learn how to build ship wooden models. 2. Build this model to the accuracy I choose in my noggin (this particular ship was never real, so accuracy exists only in the builder’s imagination, right?). 3. Have fun. 4. Share my progress.
  11. Hi All. This is only my second model ship and I started it in February so a bit of catching up on the log to do. I wasn't going to do a log but another member suggested it could be useful to others so here goes. I want it to look nice rather than be historically accurate in every detail. I will skip quickly through to where I am now. I will add a few images from the early stages as well. I made up the frame and put the decking on. I used a 2B pencil on the edges of the planks for the caulking.
  12. I've had this old AL kit in storage for a long time and thought it would be a good subject to improve my planking skillset. The box has a copyright date of 1978. I probably acquired it in the '80s. I got as far as putting the false deck on the bulkheads but that seems to be as far as I got prior to giving up in frustration many years ago. I am now working on tapering the keelson and frames to apply the bottom layer of planks. The drawings show a sharp taper is needed at the bottom before application of the bottom planks. This method is new to me as previously I have used the rabbet method on other builds.
  13. Hi all, About a month ago I received the construction kit for my second ship by post. I finished my first ship, the President Scale 1:60 Sergal kit, for about two months now and couldn't wait to start a new ship. After some searching I finally chose the frigate "L 'Hermione La Fayette". Although I would normally not choose to fully paint the hull, in this case I think it has something. Due to my enthusiasm while building, I forget to open a ship build log, but, better late than never! What's in the box! Unfortunately no 1: 1 drawing for the exact measurements T Everything is neatly packed Sails After checking the parts, it appears that a strip of 6x6 mm is missing, luckily there was still one left from my previous ship. Music in the background, on your marks, let the build begin! 😄
  14. This kit is over 35 years old, is no longer available, and deserves to be assembled. This is my first ship kit--I have built some simpler scratch built ships, but figure a kit with detailed insturctions will help me develop experience with more complicated details such as the deck furnatire and rigging. Artesania Latina's Harvey is a fictitious ship representiative of the Baltamore Clippers. I have William L. Crothers' wonderful book, "The American-Built Clipper Ship" and love the sleek lines of these fast ships. I started, of course, with assembling the Hull strcture and ran into problems right away. The plywood used for the false keel and bulkheads is a 1/4" thick, but the slots used to slide the parts together were less than this; the bulkheads were an overly tight fit on the flase keel. I ended up using a rubber mallet to pound the first one into place. An assembly step requiring a hammer should have been a red flag, but I soldered on and forced the bulkhead into place. This of course warped the keel out of the straight. But, even though this was a test fit and no glue was used, I could not remove the bulkhead and ended up busting the keel in half. I repaired the keel in an equally brutish manner, widened all of the slots with a dremel, and gave assembly of the hull another go. This time I used a square to hold the bulkheads in position, and was pleased with the results.
  15. When I heard about the tragedy of losing all the build logs I was immediately grateful that my photos are all stored on smugmug online photo hosting so at least I didn't lose those...I went to work immediately trying to re-create as much of my log as I could while it is still fairly fresh in my mind. Hopefully this will serve to help some of the builders who are even newer than me. Also I will add some retrospective comments as I go since I do have a tiny bit more knowledge now. Thanks for everyone who gave me tips and hints along the way. That really helped me stay motivated to continue Here is what the packaging looks like - this isn't my photo, just one off the Artesania Latina website. Some things about the kit that I noticed right away was that the parts list called out a base and pedestals, however these were not included. Additionally I later realized that the dowels for the mast and oars were made of their white wood (ramen) versus the walnut they called out. Since I knew going into it that I didn't want to paint the boat I ordered the walnut from Cornwall Model Boats. They really came through very quickly. The first thing I did was to remove the false keel and each of the stations. I sanded them all down to remove the laser burn and then stained them. I should have removed the stain from the areas that I was to glue, but I didn't remember that at the time. I assembled them all, and luckily the stain didn't interfere too much. Then I laid my first couple planks on. To lay my planks I first soaked my wood in warm water for about 30 minutes. Then I put them on the frame of the boat where they would be installed and anchored them down with whatever I could find, bag clips, clamps, rubber bands....you name it. After each strip was dry I would then use wood glue to put it in place. The instructions showed that I was supposed to leave a gap between the first and second plank so I did that. I wish I had just followed the tutorials on MSW though because I think it would have looked better if I had adjusted the width of the planks in the middle of the boat instead.I made little tiny thin triangular planks to fill those areas in. Eventually I finished planking and was left with this: Next I added in my floor. Here comes the next lesson for you all - keep wood away from dogs. I had a piece of my nicely cut flooring and left it toward the edge of my table and either I knocked it with my elbow or my dog grabbed it, either way within 5 minutes of me having placed it there it was on the floor and chewed in half. I had to re-create the floor piece out of two of the leftover scraps which you can probably pick out in the second photo. Then I began sanding the hull to smooth it out. After 800 grit was finished it looked pretty darn good. Next I added the seats (which turned out to be the incorrect wood and the mast holder. Since I didn't realize the seats were messed up I went ahead and added the bulwarks. I saw on someone else's build log (not for the jolly boat) that they used graphite for the decorative fasteners of the planks so I did that too, thought it would look neat. I started by drilling the holes at about 0.5mm Then I added the graphite from mechanical pencils hole by hole. Then I tried my hand at making rope. Then dying it using coffee for about a half hour - the rope on the bottom is dyed - hopefully you can tell the difference. I figured I'd use my new rope on my bucket. In order to prepare my bucket I made slices with my x-acto blade so the bucket looks like it is made of multiple pieces of wood. Then I took some wire and hammered it flat to use as the rings. Then Voila! it is a bucket! Next I decided to make the part that retains the bowsprit... I was really just looking for small things to do that day. If you are getting tired of doing anything on your boat it is totally ok to work ahead since the little things might just give you the break in the monotony that you need. Then I made the boom mainsheet double block. The double blocks provided in this kit are very featureless so I really enhanced and shaped the dead eyes so they looked a little more detailed. In the instructions they tell you to make the tiller out of a little metal rod, so instead I fashioned one out of some wood I had leftover. At this same point I realized my seats were made from the wrong wood so I carefully removed them and re-cut and reinstalled the correct wood (you should be able to tell the width difference). I then put gloss varnish on the whole boat. After a dud order from an online wood supplier I ordered some walnut from Cornwall Model Boats and they came in basically the amount of time it took to cross the ocean. They were great. In the meantime I started my Christmas present of the Harriet Lane, a steam sloop. When t he wood arrived I was filled with glee and put my mast together. And then I installed the Bowsprit I added a couple blocks and my gun I know my parrals are a bit big, I'll change them another time...but they are better than just rope. My hatchet seemed to be plastic it was such a light pot metal but once I took some sand paper to it I was able to really shine up the blade. I added some matte black paint to the handle. Then I began my rigging. I then made some new little gadgets for the boat, I started with something that no boat is complete without….an anchor. I don't know if this boat would have had one, but I thought it needed one anyway. I made it out of sculpy then I attached it to one of my homemade ropes. I then coiled that homemade rope and put some wood glue on the bottom of the coil so it stays nice when I put it in the boat Then it was time to make my oars. Later I added some rope grips which you will see in the macros further down the page. Then it was time to work on the pedestal. I got a pine pedestal from Hobby lobby since AL had included it on the parts list but not included it in my box…jerks (and yes I did try writing them - sent an email back in November…no response). So I wanted to attach the name plate to the base at an angle so I made some plywood out of some of my sheets of boxwood and cut it into the same shape as the nameplate then sanded it down into a wedge shape. Then I attached it and used a dark walnut stain pen (you can see the own on the Left Hand Side). Then I added about 10 coats of satin varnish and then the nameplate. Then I thought some more about Bligh's epic voyage and remembered the carpenter's box. I wasn't ambitious enough to try to make the box so that it opens or anything…but I did try to make it like the one I saw in the Mel Gibson version of the Mutiny on the Bounty movie. I started with a bit of balsa that I shaped into a chest and then I stole some scraps of the mahogany that my husband had left over from planking his Swift. I cut these planks in half so they are about 1/16" wide each then applied them to my rough chest. Then I made some tiny sculpy accessories, a latch, two hinges, and a drawer pull. I also used some railroad decal rivets and pinted over them black. I applied some satin varnish (which looks shiny due to my lighting but isn't) I then made some barrels for water or wine. I added some gloss varnish to the inside of my bucket (which did dry clear) Then I got out the big guns That's my canon rebel T2i and if you know about photography you'll see my macro tube…so you know you are set for some macro goodness Lets start with a couple photos for scale… And now for the super high quality camera photos…I'm including a link to the full size photos for your pixel happiness. http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-ZKfkL84/0/XXL/img_5099-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-gqGsrcq/0/XXL/img_5100-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-B8BjK69/0/XXL/img_5098-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-Gd9Sktx/0/XXL/img_5101-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-QxgvXmb/0/XXL/img_5104-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-xqtKRmS/0/XXL/img_5105-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-cjHb6FW/0/XXL/img_5097-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-4hMFVr2/0/XXL/img_5096-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-7tQN8gs/0/XXL/img_5094-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-gz3R2gt/0/XXL/img_5093-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-sksKL4X/0/XXL/img_5095-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-gngMjgv/0/XXL/img_5102-XXL.jpg And now for the closeups http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-7KBrjCt/0/XXL/IMG_5090-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-gncvt6f/0/XXL/IMG_5091-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-DCb8rjb/0/XXL/IMG_5089-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-xZKrvR5/0/XXL/IMG_5087-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-mqvkm7X/0/XXL/IMG_5088-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-Qxvpbxv/0/XXL/IMG_5086-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-p6k5gPz/0/XXL/IMG_5085-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-b4mQ76C/0/XXL/IMG_5084-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-dMmv4vx/0/XXL/IMG_5082-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-KnKX4gD/0/XXL/IMG_5081-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-twC5t39/0/XXL/IMG_5080-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-FnJzb9K/0/XXL/IMG_5077-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-pDRrMGf/0/XXL/IMG_5078-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-jcC3VP4/0/XXL/IMG_5076-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-bvVfH6b/0/XXL/IMG_5075-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-89BL5b4/0/XXL/IMG_5073-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-zQDHfjJ/0/XXL/IMG_5074-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-wfM2gFM/0/XXL/IMG_5072-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-cxHR87V/0/XXL/IMG_5070-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-Z7rzhhs/0/XXL/IMG_5071-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-Mz342Pw/0/XXL/IMG_5069-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-GB9x6wN/0/XXL/IMG_5067-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-RqsGt8p/0/XXL/IMG_5068-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-6TZmBPL/0/XXL/IMG_5066-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-wSTCH7X/0/XXL/IMG_5065-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-RXsV7GM/0/XXL/IMG_5064-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-T5H8Fqp/0/XXL/IMG_5062-XXL.jpg http://slagoon.smugmug.com/Boats/Model-Ship/i-BQMb27x/0/XXL/IMG_5063-XXL.jpg That's it. Thanks for looking! Good luck with your build.
  16. For my next ship build I decided to finally drag the Artesania Latina US Constellation kit out of my stash and start building it. It was given to me by a good friend as a birthday present 9 years ago and has languished on the shelf since then; partly because it was intimidating, but mostly because I did not have the work space big enough to set it up and build it and lastly I did not know where I would display it once built - still don't but that will be dealt with later on. Even the box it comes in is huge and intimidating. I first constructed a build board that will hold it. Unfortunately I routed a groove along the centerline of the board to hold the keel but when the keel sits down in the groove the bulkheads don't seat fully, so I set it flush on the board and screen small cleats alongside the keel to keep it upright and straight. Some startup photos are below: So far I have dry fit all the bulkheads, sanded them as needed and am now slowly gluing them in place use small pieces of aluminum angle to keep everything perpendicular to the false keel. At this point everything is just dry fit
  17. Hi everyone! Brand new to the forums, and to ship building. My build log is going to start with a bit of searching for advice before I proceed. Let me lay out the problem/story for you, and then we'll go from there! My grandfather started this model many years ago after he had retired. Shortly after, they moved, and it has been sitting in his storage at his new place for... 15+ years. On a recent visit, the subject of model making came up (we both make model cars and airplanes), and he asked me if I was interested in this ship. Wooden ship building has been on my list of things to try for a long time. I've even bought and read several books on the subject. Of course, I said sure! Upon getting the model home and reading through the instructions and plans, organizing the components, and trying to figure out where he left off years and years ago, I discovered some potential issues with the model. I did a lot of research, found these forums, found a series of older posts, and a log by John Earl that made the light bulb come on. This is the old kit that has incorrect parts, and that most people have to modify or supplement parts for... Long story short, my grandfather didn't have the internet or access to these logs all those years ago, and forged ahead, and now I need to figure out what the best course of action is so I can proceed with the build. I hope to finish the ship and send progress photos to him since he is no longer able to do the fine detail work. A couple things: - I fully understand that this model is not the most accurate, and that most people single plank it due to painting it. I am not worried about the inaccuracies, and have accepted that it won't be perfect due to the "mistakes" that were already made. I also will be doing the second layer of planks for that experience and to learn, as it's my first ship. - I'd like to figure out the easiest and most straight forward way of getting the bulwarks (namely the bow) to an acceptable state, that won't entirely mess on the model, and proceed. I don't want to cause major damage to the rest of the ship, and am fine with inaccuracies and a bit of... improvisation for the purposes of learning and finishing it while my grandfather can still appreciate it. Thank you all so much. Seems like a great forum, and I'm excited to get this under way. Here are some pictures, and if you need more photos or different angles, I'm happy to do so. This is the state that he gave it to me in. I haven't done or changed anything yet.
  18. Preface: This is a recreation of the build log I started in late 2010 up to the close of dry dock in the summer of 2011. As stated in my reintroduction post, I've gotten the itch back and want to finish this project. I had saved all the text and photos from that original build log and have decided to use them as is/was. I won't edit anything and will include the photos as best as I can determine which post they belong to. My aim is to get us back up to date with the current status and then press on to completion. It will become obvious that I received a lot of help and feedback, but those posts have been wished to the cornfield due to the "Great Crash". I apologize in advance for my lack of photography skills and lengthy posts. I would greatly appreciate any and all comments plus your advice in the completion of my little Jolly Boat. Take care and be safe. kev
  19. At the beginning of the Pandemic it looked as though Art Lat might go out of business. Most of their models available in the US were sold out and the ones left were disappearing quickly. Having wanted to build this model for a long time I decided to buy one before they all disappeared. For Art Lat though, there are always missing parts, insufficient quantities of parts, or poorly cast parts. So, to combat this I bought two kits. It turned out to be a smart move. To this end, below are some pictures of the progress. There are many inaccuracies in this kit, things that are not scale, or just would not work when you try to fix the problems. So I am scratch building items as I go along. Additionally I did not like the spiral stairs so I changed them out to a more traditional staircase. Its worth noting that I built the stairs three different times to get them right. That alone took 2-1/2 weeks to get where I am now. The top deck, its roof, and the upper white railings are not glued in place yet but were placed there for pictures. Lots of sanding to do still. BTW, I purchased new windows and doors for the upper deck as the cast ones are not well done in my opinion. The white color I feel is more accurate. I used a white wash pickling stain from the hardware store to get the effect. It takes at least 7 coats on each piece you make to get this depth of color. I kept the red and brown colors for the doors and windows. I know that is inaccurate but it needed some color to match the lettering of the name. All in all it is a fun model to build and worth the effort. Oh, and the name of the ship is my wife's name "The Reti V." (pronounced Reetee) She was all flattered by it when I showed her what I had done. SaturnV
  20. Bought this decades ago and many years ago I assembled the frames left on the shelf and started again a couple years ago i am ar the point where the second planking is down to waterline I plan to copper with tape so I will post some current photos and pictures of the plans as I saw an ask for plan photos
  21. Happy new year! This is my first project of 2022. I finished lots of precise plastic models including two 1/700 photo etched warships last year. I would like to re-focus on wooden model ships this year. This build log will stick to manufacture's manual and very straight build in most case for faster progress. I hope you forgive me for low level of details. 😉 This is really useful review about revamped Artesania Latina Santa Maria kit. The kit is imported last week in South Korea. https://artesanialatina.net/en/home/62096-renewed-santa-maria-caravel-wooden-model-ship-kit-8437021128086.html In addition, you can download 101mb manual file which is also in a DVD in a box. Let's easy start with a stand. The manual page is 119. Parts numbers are 78, 79, and 80 x2. I used rubber hammer and OLFA AK4 art knife with 5mm width scribing blade. You can find the OLFA's 5mm scribing blade as Tamiya 74161. The white glue is the Titebond's 'No-Run No-Drip' glue which was 'Molding & Trim' glue in the USA. It is fast drying type PVA glue which reduces waiting hour 6 times. Titebond I is more famous, but I'm in favor of this bond's pure white color. Hammer time! Don't do this at night. Without proper alignment, you will face enormous amount of fixing work. The gaps are not tighten, and sometimes keel can be twisted. This is the ideal situation. You will have minimum sanding work for planking and deck installing. In reality, you need to align all three axises. If not, you have to sand bulged frames or reinforce short frames with straps. Both of them force unnecessary labor and time. 1. Draw lines 2. Use angle rulers or any kind of parts that make 90' angle. In this case, I used aluminum profile angles and clamps. I ordered 4x 100mm aluminum angles to get exact 90' angle. This is one of the accurate angle part and exceptionally cheap solution. (about 80 cents each) Here is a diagram how aluminum angles make exact 90' angles. 3. After I clamped a frame with 4 aluminum angles and 8 clamps, I measured length of port and starboard side of the frame. It should be same. This is the last progress of aligning axises. I used 4 aluminium angles and 8 clamps. Each frame takes about 10 minutes. Nice even result. This progress looks boring, but I promise that this is much better than quick hand gluing and later overwhelming work.
  22. Ok onto my second build and I expect this one will be a little more of a challenge than PORT JACKSON. The framework was a little loose so I had to be rather careful in assembly to ensure the frames not only lay flat but also symmetrical about the centreline and had the right space at the deck level for the beams to be fitted later. Laying the deck was a relatively simple process having previously marked the centrelines on the false deck I laid full lengths of the 0.5mm strip material after rubbing the edges with a permanent black marker. I chose to insert perimeter planks (not sure what these are actually called) so that the deck planks did not end in sharp points at the bulwark. The plank joints and nails were marked by a 0.1mm permanent ink marker. As can be seem in the picture, I had lots of time to spare while glue dried so I started work on the Foremast. The mast pieces were turned in a mini lathe tapered by holding sandpaper on each side to support the material under pressure and runs the sandpaper up and down the tapered length until the diameters were met. The squaring was achieved by marking a square on the end of the material and then running lines down the length and then sand to the lines. It was at this point that I noted that some of the work done by ENDEAVOUR builders in the past reveal some potential errors in the Artesania kit so I bout the Parkin book but alas it does not provide sufficient detail on masts and yards. It does however reveal some missing features in the deck which I will have to mark and amend.
  23. Was on the fence about making another build log since my last one was 5 years in the making....anyways here it goes....
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