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January 2014 – After 21 years of sitting in a large box of packing peanuts I decided to resurrect the Mamoli Constitution. Luckily I had packed everything carefully. The ship’s hull and some of the tools were in the box, the remaining wood and parts were taped up in the original kit box. The scale of the model is 1:93. I pulled the plans and started to review where I left the build off. I had completed the outer hull (which is double planked on bulkheads), including the green tiles representing each of the copper plates. The main deck was not planked and the forward bulkhead while started only had one plank on one side. I completed the forward bulkhead and proceeded to plank the deck. According to the instructions, each piece of Tanganyika needed to be cut to 80mm, then using a No.2 pencil you color the edges on both sides and the butt ends. I used white wood glue to glue the pieces down. I marked with pencil each of the deck penetrations, which were already done in the plywood. Then I carefully cut the wood and sanded/filed the edges back to the original hole size. This is an area where I see a fairly significant difference in the Mamoli plans and the Model Shipyards. The MS builds the hull in the bow into what becomes the forward bulkhead. The Mamoli construction includes the bow in the planking and adds the forward bulkhead once the hull is complete. This also means the bow is approached differently. I will get to that later. Once the deck was completed I put on the handrails. At this point, I decided a couple of points. First, my plan was to paint the model using the Constitution plaint set from MS and secondly, I wanted to modify the bow and the stern ornamentation to be more closely aligned with the looks of the MS model. This meant creating a method to add the scrollwork since the Mamoli did not include it other than two white metal plates to be affixed to the bow for the fiddlehead design. Secondly the stern did not have the two boards that ran from the lower stern over the windows and back down producing a nice double curve. These I created using 2x2mm walnut strips I bent with the heat bender. As a note, I found out that adding CA to the sides of the strip before I bent it allowed me to control the splintering which the walnut was prone to do. This might have had something to do with the wood strips being over 21 years old. Stern Galleries The kit came with two white metal pieces for the windows in the stern galleries. One was curved almost correctly, the other was straight. Unfortunately, when trying to bend the metal for the gallery, it broke along the central vertical piece between the windows. I was afraid to heat it before I bent it. I found both of the gallery pieces required much work in sanding and shaping before they could be glued into the model. Since I was painting the ship I could use sandable epoxy putty to add to smooth the pieces to the hull. I did end up having to remove more of this than planned since I thought the top of the gallery was more curved than flat. I used my Foredom Rotary tool, rilflers, sand paper, and dental tools to carve the gallery sides and put the modeling details back into it where I either ended up sanding them out, or they needed to be made to extend through the putty. I then added the 2x2 walnut strips around the stern and completed the stern with the side strips running down the gallery aft sides. These I extended 2 mm to match the 2x2s I added around the windows. The attached photo shows the Starboard Gallery. You can see the frame break on the bottom of the leftmost window. This was patched before painting.
Hello, I am considering HMS Victory for my next project. I've decided that before I begin the Victory, I'd like some input from others who've done one. I would appreciate your input and frank appraisal of your kit, the manufacturer, and whether you would use them again if starting over. If not, then which? I would use a kit as a basis but would likely engage in some bashing to enhance authenticity. I would also likely use a good reference like Longridge or one of the many others. Ideas on resources are greedily accepted. Input on wood quality; fitting (wood and metal) quality; plans quality (completeness, readability, accuracy); instruction (readability and accuracy of descriptions, quality of illustrations); accuracy of description of masting and rigging; etc. Any input that you would like to share would be most gratefully acknowledged. Many thanks, Chris Miller
So I decided to start a small log of my progress on my Occre Xebec "Cazador". Mainly because there's no other log of any Xebec on MSW2. On the old MSW there where several, the log from Alexander Romaschenko has been a great help. Luckily Ilhan still had the pictures.... I'm not too happy with the quality of the Occre kit, I have the feeling it's not complete i'm missing quite some parts and as always there's not enough rope. I've thrown away quite some parts as well. All metal parts and plywood, precut parts. I've made the cannon carts and rigged them. Also i've put the cannons in Brass-black to make them look (they actually are) oxidized. I'm using pear and wallnut for remaking the plywood parts. I've started in 2009 and have been working on and off. I have 4 daughters so got my hands full from time to time 2010: So that's quite nice but not nice enough....... 2011: Current state:
Hi to all First of all, a big thanks to the Admin and Moderators for their efforts in upgrading this site, keep up the good work guys I've been working on this kit, which I fondly named "Peggy-Sue", for more than a year now, squeezing in what little model-building time I have after work and family responsibilities. The kit will build into an excellent ship right out of the box, but I decided that I would add some modifications to make it as historically accurate as my skills would allow. To do these, I will be using the excellent TFFM books by David Antscherl, the original NMM draught of HMS Pegasus and some pictures of contemporary models/paintings. I also read up on a couple of Ship Modelling books to improve my knowledge on these magnificent vessels: Going back to Pegasus, the kit has been a fun project so far, materials are of very nice quality and fit of the parts is top-notch. I'm a bit lazy to re-write my whole log so will just summarize all that I have done. I started with the usual set of bulkheads fitted to the keel as seen below: This was followed by the following events, occurred more or less in chronological order: -applied gunport patterns and pricked myself with the nails followed by a lot of foul words -applied first planking basically violating every planking rule known to men -reduced the briddle port size to TFFM dimensions and moved it further forward. -applied second planking, which looked like it had been done by my 2 year-old kid -removed the bulkhead extensions, made some false frames using some scrap wood attached inside the bulwarks to thicken it (I hope to later plank over these false frames, attach some FC and QD deck beams and hanging knees to replace the kit provided parts) -my original second planking was simply unacceptable so I decided to remove the stem and keel for re-planking, resulting to irreparable damage to these parts.... THIS WAS FOLLOWED BY EVEN MORE FOUL WORDS! -bought the HMS Fly and donated her keel to Pegasus to allow re-planking... resulting to foul words from the Admiral for the added expense -