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Found 3 results

  1. Hello, everyone! I've been taking some time to read up on all the planking tutorials offered here, and I'm trying to conceptually apply the techniques that I'm learning to my first build, which will begin in a week or two. I believe I understand the planking process in theory, but I've noticed that, with the exception of the "Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners" guide (http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf), most of the guides seem to describe a technique in which each individual plank is spiled to fit the lined-off sections on the bulkheads. While this method seems easy to understand and certainly appears to provide a beautiful fit and a great-looking hull in the end, it requires you to use your own wood, as the spiled planks you cut out require stock that is wider than the planks that are included with the kit. This method seems ideal to me, as it puts less stress on the planks, and seems to make for an easier planking process, as long as you take your time cutting out each plank as perfectly as possible. However, I'd like to strengthen my understanding of the process used if one were to plank using the strips of wood included with the kit itself (for the sake of clarity, I've written my questions in bold). Based on the guide, it would appear that, in this case, you are to use the measurements of your lined-off bulkheads to plot a curve along the top side of each plank (i.e., the upper edge of the plank when the model is upright, with the keel on the bottom, as if the ship were sitting in the water). The top edge of the plank is then tapered along this curve (without ever tapering the bottom edge of the plank), minor adjustments are made, and the plank is moistened and heated, then bent over the bulkheads and clamped, where it is allowed to dry in order to take the shape of the hull. Once dry, the plank can be adhered to the bulkheads. Is this correct? From what I have read, the only plank to which this method does not apply is the garboard strake, which is tapered along its bottom edge to match the curve formed by the bottom edges of the bulkhead where they meet the keel. The top edge of the garboard strake (when the hull is positioned upright) is not tapered. Do I have that right? Finally, I'm curious about the wale. Is this where most people start planking, working down to the keel? Is this plank tapered at all? If so, which edge is tapered -- top or bottom? While I had originally assumed that I would simply plank my hull using the strips that come with the kit, I've become quite interested in the spiling technique, as the hulls I've seen that result from the use of this technique look amazing. My kit has not arrived yet, so I do not yet know the thickness of the planks that are included with it. If I were to acquire some 1/16"-thick sheets of basswood, would this thickness be comparable to the thickness of most first-layer planks that come with these kits, or is 1/16" too thick? I appreciate the help, guys!
  2. Hello everybody, I have a question about staining the deck. I'm currently building MS Mayflower kit which only comes with basswood as the only wood. As I started planking the deck I noticed that the color of basswod strips doesn't match, some strips are more yellow and others are more white. This results in a deck that looks uneven and not pleasing to the eye. Right now I see two options: 1. Tear apart whatever I've planked so far and start over carefully selecting strips so they all have same color. When deck is planked sand it and apply Min-Wax Wipe-on-poly. 2. Finish planking the deck without bothering about color mismatch and then stain it. My question is, has anybody had similar experience before and what they ended up doing? What kind of stain people use for decks and how the end result looks like? On my other model I only used MinWax wipe-on-poly on the basswood planked deck and it turned out very well (all the strips were similar shade though). Thank you very much, Egor
  3. Greetings, I have come across a very interesting product that I am going to use for a project at the Modeller's Workshop. This product, Renshape, a high-density foam, is excellent for scratch-building parts and making molds. However, it comes in large sections and is quite expensive. I am considering buying some of this stuff and cutting it into small pieces so model-builders can use it. Please let me know if you are interested. If there is enough interest, I will start selling the stuff on my website, in small pieces. Best Regards, Rick Shousha Modeller's Workshop Montreal

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