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Found 25 results

  1. So, I’ve bitten the bullet and plumped for a model of HMS beagle by OcCre. Having done the Bluenose 2, I’m now looking to have a go at an older ship, and one with some square rigging. It was a toss up between the Beagle or the Endurance, with both ships having fantastic history attached to them. Out of the box, things look pretty good.
  2. So this is my first build of a legit model ship. I bought a Chinese knock off to make sure I would be into making a wooden model ship because I have done lots of car models as a kid but it's been 15 years since I did one. Either way looking forward to getting into this new hobby because I want a better outlet then video games and youtube because it's a waste of mental health. Either way hope everyone enjoys my log as much as I will and looking forward to sharing my experience with everyone!! P.S. props to OcCre for an amazing model kit with such detail in the instructions.
  3. Hello there! Sorry for taking so long this building log. I worked on the ship during the spare time I have and there is my progress (and some comments for my problems and solutions. Here we go. Problem here: as you can see I glued wrongly one at the bow, since it wasn’t a big deal y fixed it with a bit a sanding, lets hope it didn’t come on a bigger mistake. Nevermind now, lets continue. You can’t appreciate from the picture, but there are three small mistakes of cutting too much, but I fixed somehow with spare bits of the wood after cutting the form, it’s hardlyt noticeable unlees you search for it (and in futher building even more hard to nitice). Time for some walls and doors. After this point I made a little stop. I took my time to reorginze mi “work station”. Maybe I will update later with a photo of my little corner.
  4. Finally ready to do this build log . I attempt to keep it all short and to the point . Received HMs Beagle , opened up to check the contents and condition. Checked to see if there was any damage or anything had warped during the packaging , transport etc . All seemed ok
  5. Thought I'd throw my hat in to the growing number of logs for this ship - I guess the more the merrier! I'm a little late to start a log - I started building in late February doing 2-3hrs work most days. I would guess I've put in the best part of 100hrs so far. This is my very first wood model ship. I've done a lot of Metal Earth type models over the past year or so, including a few ships such as PieceCool's very decorative Wind Breaker and Black Pearl This has given me a lot of experience at working at a small scale so I hoped this skill-set would help with building a wooden ship. So decided to opt for an ambitious first build of the Beagle. The scientific significance of ship was also very appealing to me. This choice was also heavily swayed by the availability of OcCre's YouTube step by step build videos. And these have indeed turned out to be an invaluable resource. Here's another excellent online resource I found for visualizing the ship: https://www.cloudtour.tv/beagle/. There are some differences in the OcCre ship compared to the virtual model in the details - but the general layout out of both versions are very similar. I only have a few pics from early in the build, just after the first planking. As you can see in these pics I was concerned about being able to remove the pins after the glue had dried. So I made myself a whole bunch of small rectangular washers from cereal box cardboard. These worked really well - you could push the pins in all the way with a pin-pusher so it holds the wood down securely. Then when dry, the pins could be easily removed by sliding a flush cutter under the cardboard washer and pulling out. You'll also see in these pics I opted to go for the more traditional way of tapering the planks along the whole length rather than the way OcCre suggest of using full width planks then inserting triangular sections to fill the gaps. I'm not sure there is any advantage to my way over OcCre's way other than it may have given me more useful experience for future builds. For bending the planks I used one of these: https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/amati-form-a-strip-am7381.html. In my research I've seen many people say not to use these - but I found them really useful and made bending the planks easy and quick. The only thing is you can't use them if the inside of the bend is going to end up visible as you end up with a bunch of indentations on the inside. For the deck planking and second hull planking I highly recommend the way they do it in the OcCre videos using contact cement. I was a bit nervous about using that method as I was afraid that as soon as I attached the plank it would adhere and would not be moveable to adjust and close gaps. But this is not the case - it does not adhere properly until you apply firm pressure, so it is easy to adjust just right, then when a section is complete just apply firm pressure with a rounded wooden object and everything will stick firmly. I used DAP Weldwood Contact Cement which worked great for this application. I did manage to put quite a major slice in my thumb with an Xacto knife due to a plank splitting when I was trimming the top edge flush with the deck - certainly learned my lesson to be more careful when making cuts like that. Fortunately didn't cut through any tendons so it's all good now other than a numb section due to cutting through a nerve. So skip forward a month and I'm now just before building the dinghies and long boats. I'm very pleased with how it has progressed. There were a few mistakes along the way which required some effort to rectify - but that's how you learn right? I did have an issue with my set in that it is short probably two lengths of the 1mm brass wire. I had to start substituting the 0.5mm and 1.5mm wire for some things, and some 1mm steel wire I had laying around for some parts that get painted. Talking of paint - I used Historic Ships brand Black and White paint for the hull. This gives a semi gloss finish which looks really nice. It does take about 3 or 4 coats to get a consistent finish, but it dries pretty fast. I also used Historic Ships Clear Satin varnish for everything that needs varnishing. This dries fast and is very quick to clean off brushes with water. For stain I used Minwax Dark Walnut and Red Mahogony, and more recently got some Red Chestnut which I prefer and used for later parts of the build (e.g. the deck house roofs). In hindsight I wish I had treated all the interior sapelli wood with the Red Chestnut as that would have given a nicer contrast. For all the black fittings I used matte acrylic paint, firstly because it only needs one coat to get a good finish, and second my understanding is that on small objects gloss does not look very realistic. For the cannons and figurehead I used a mix of matte black acrylic and Liquid Leaf Classic Gold. I actually mixed the paints together in various proportions to get the desired patina rather than using the black then gold method shown in OcCre's video. Then I used a very small amount of the semi gloss black dry brushed on top to get relief around the nooks. In the next pic you can see I had to substitute 1.5mm instead of 1mm brass wire for the axle on the central pin rail due to there not being enough 1mm in the set. Looks OK though I think. In the next pic you can see an issue with the foremast belaying pins. I spaced each set of three pins exactly as shown in the scale drawings in the instructions. But this makes them too close and each set of three pins will not insert all the way due to interference. I almost remade the whole piece but in the end just decided to put up with it. If you are building this ship I would suggest spacing these pins out slightly more than shown on the drawings. There a small gap between the keel and the hull that can be seen in the next pic. I should have spent more time test fitting and shaping the keel here. I was happy with how the wire bending went for the transom decorations, I think my Metal Earth experience helped here as you have to do a lot of careful forming and shaping of metal sheets. You can see here I did not sand down the internal support blocks at the stern on the starboard side enough. It wasn't clear in the instructions that they basically need to be sanded down to the width of the keel at the very back. Here you can see another mistake I made. The anchor wale on the port side shown here is correct. But compare it to the first pic, you'll see on the starboard side I accidently made it slope the other way, towards the back as you go down. It's one of those errors that no one viewing the model would ever spot as you never see both at the same time - but I know it's there, grrr! Another mistake I used the wrong thickness of wire for some of the wires that make up the bow (this is not why I am short on the 1mm wire though). Well that's it for now. I'll post further updates as progress is made.
  6. First build, first post. Made my first major mistake and placed the lowest plank incorrectly. Luckily I caught it prior to applying the 2nd plank layer and it was a simple fix of sanding to get it even with the false keel. I’m aware that I’ll be making mistakes and learning from them so this doesn’t frustrate me at all.
  7. Hi Guys, here goes, my first build log for what seems like a decades. Unfortunately I had already started the kit before coming home to M.S.W. The hull is almost completed with a bit more planking to be done, that is so different to what i'm used to, the first planking is really thick, I suppose because there's a lot of sanding to be done, the second planking is so different, it's almost like paper its that thin, so that was my first shock, my second was that all Blocks, Dead eyes are all made of plastic, they are all one size as well 4 mm so all will need replacing. The ropes are quite poor quality and so again all will need replacing, so a rope walk is on the menu ans also a rope server. With regard to the white metal parts again all will require a lot of working on or replacing, on a plus note the stand is nice. I went quiet on the Forum for a week or so because I was attempting to build a rope walk and server, I did end making them but they are of such a poor quality that I cant use them, while testing them I had to make so many running repairs it turned out to be a complete waste of time and money, one good thing is that I learned to duck quickly in order to miss the flying plates, not doing that again. So I will show a few photos so you can see my progress so far. Any and all comments good or bad are more than welcome. mobbsie
  8. 1:60 H.M.S. Beagle OcCre Catalogue # 12005 Available from Ages of Sail for $209.00USD HMS Beagle was a Cherokee-class 10-gun brig-sloop of the Royal Navy, one of more than 100 ships of this class. The vessel, constructed at a cost of £7,803 (£613,000 in today's currency), was launched on 11 May 1820 from the Woolwich Dockyard on the River Thames. In July of that year she took part in a fleet review celebrating the coronation of King George IV of the United Kingdom, and for that occasion is said to have been the first ship to sail completely under the old London Bridge. There was no immediate need for Beagle so she "lay in ordinary", moored afloat but without masts or rigging. She was then adapted as a survey barque and took part in three survey expeditions. The second voyage of HMS Beagle is notable for carrying the recently graduated naturalist Charles Darwin around the world. While the survey work was carried out, Darwin travelled and researched geology, natural history and ethnology onshore. He gained fame by publishing his diary journal, best known as The Voyage of the Beagle, and his findings played a pivotal role in the formation of his scientific theories on evolution and natural selection. The kit Hot on the heels of their H.M.S. Terror kit, reviewed HERE, OcCre have hit the ground running with H.M.S. Beagle, of Charles Darwin fame. Both Terror and Beagle are of course well-known for very different reasons, and their familiarity shows OcCre not straying too much from that comfort zone. As with Terror, Beagle is packaged into a standard-type OcCre box with a cut out to display the nice fittings box that is a feature of these kits. A large, printed product label is affixed to the lid, and the kit itself is packaged in shrink film to protect it. For your information, the finished model’s dimensions are given as: Length: 720 mm Width: 230 mm Height: 480 mm Lifting the robust lid reveals a protective lower box through which you can see the instructions, and this box then splits open to access the contents. One half of the box holds three substantial bundles of very nicely cut timber, held together gently with elastic bands. The most obvious bundle is the lime, which is used for the first layer of hull planking. This creamy-looking material is super sharp with no fuzzy or split edges and is consistent in size. Our next bundle holds all of the remaining strip wood of all persuasions and sizes. There is more lime here of course, but also the Tanganyika for the second layer of hull planking. Colour is consistent too. Lime is provided for the deck planking. The last bundle contains both strip and dowel. All of the remaining timber parts have been packaged onto a wrap of heat shrunk and sealed clear plastic. I do think this approach actually aids warpage as the boards have a curve induced in them due to the wrapping. Once the plastic is cut away and removed, we get to look at the false keel and assess it. This ply part does indeed have a warp along its length, so this will need to be steamed and left flat on a sheet of glass or similar. \ There is no warp in the next sheet. This one contains the fo'c'sle deck, main deck, poop deck, transom, windlass mount and various interlocking structural elements. All laser cutting on this kit is excellent, with only minimal scorching. This sheet is also, thankfully. Warp free, and it contains all of the hull bulkheads and bow profile parts. Three inserts are also included which fit perpendicularly to the false keel and provide mounting points for the masts. We have a mixed bag with this sheet, with parts from all over the ship, plus elements to help build the four wooden launches/supply boats. Note parts here for the mast tops, trestletrees, cannon carriages, forward cannon rotating ring, channels etc. As an aid to the modeller, the upper outside of the hull sides are produced as shaped ply parts, with the grain running short-ways to allow them to bend properly around the hull. These are cut with the cannon ports in situ, so there’s no awkward fumbling to try and locate the positions of these. The second planking will of course lay directly over these ply faces. This sheet seems to deal solely with parts needed for those timber launches, and contains jigs, false keels and bulkheads. Our last timber sheet is walnut-stained ply. Many parts on this are for the display base, but you’ll also find keep, stem and stern parts, as well as mast steps. My sample does have a slight warp in this sheet. A single fret of bare brass photo-etch (PE) is included with this release, containing such parts as chainwales etc. Manufacturing quality is excellent with good parts definition and small tabs to remove the various elements. If you like your models to be fitted out with sails, then you’ll be happy to know there are a full set included in this release. These already look a little antique in appearance and are quite neat. A little fuzziness can be seen on the edges in some places, but that is easily fixed with some trimming and dilute PVA. You will need to attach your own bolt ropes though. There’s plenty of rigging cord included, in both natural and brown, of various sizes. All is neatly spooled with the diameters clearly given. Cord quality is also very good with no fuzziness being apparent. All OcCre kits come with these snazzy fittings boxes which are well worth keeping even when the model is complete. They are a great way of keeping organised. Eleven compartments contain all kit fittings, plus four more spools of rigging cord that have been placed there to stop the metal fittings rolling around. The metal parts are made from a zinc alloy (Zamak) which gives the parts are real nice definition, as can be seen from the gear teeth on the windlass. There are some slight seams to remove, and a jeweller’s file will do that nicely. Note that the anchor stocks are also cast in metal instead of made from wood and these just slip over the anchor stem. There are also davits here for the launches, and a whole rake of brass wire in different diameters. A set of printed flags is also included. All belaying pins, deadeyes and rigging blocks are manufactured from a pale wood (box?) and are not at all shabby. A few of the blocks may need a drill passing through them to make a totally clean exit hole. The brass pins are fine, sharp and with no deformation. Quite happy with those. Here you see the parrel beads, closed heart blocks etc. Here we can see the various pintles, gudgeons, chain, rigging pins, all made from brass. As well as more blocks (this time single hole) and deadeyes, and more metal fittings, such as the cleats, figurehead, wheel, and strangely enough….the quarter galleries. An odd choice of material for a couple of things here, but they are manufactured with good definition. The last items here are also zinc alloy. Thee cannon do look excellent. Just a few minor seams to tackle. There are two sets of sheets that involve construction of Beagle. With the first, you see a series of drawings that concern the masting of the model, and there is also a comprehensive parts list. For the second set of sheets, a series of clear, colour photos take you through the build. These are pretty self-explanatory and shouldn’t provide any problem. Some drawings are interspersed with the photos. Thee last pages are taken over by rigging and masting illustrations, and also a deck plan for reference. Conclusion You get quite a lot of kit for your money with H.M.S. Beagle, and most certainly a lot of good quality material. My only real gripe is the packing of the ply parts and the ply they are specifically made from as there is warpage present. I know some modellers aren’t keen on MDF for these parts, but it sure doesn’t warp. Maybe they’ll consider this in future. Apart from that, there’s nothing really to criticise for a kit of this level. It’s also good to see that instead of packing white metal launches into this, all are made as separate projects in their own right. The use of zinc-based metal parts also lends itself to a far sharper end result, although the very minor seams will just take a little more work with a jeweller’s file. OcCre continue with their tradition of providing colour-photo driven instructions with accompanying text sheets, and these seem very simple to follow. All in all, this is a kit which could well provide an in-road for a modeller who wants to try their hand at wooden ships, or even as a nice subject for a more seasoned modeller. Another very nice release from OcCre. My sincere thanks to OcCre for the kit reviewed here on Model Ship World. To buy this kit from Ages of Sail, click the link at the top of the article.
  9. Hi Chaps, I was debating about making a log of my build considering the abundance of Beagles, appears like it is well liked by beginners of which I am most definitely one, clearly I have decided to log my experience... Perhaps it will be a success but more likely it will be a nightmare and a warning to others! So far I have already made two unfortunate mistakes both could have been avoided in hindsight with more research/common sense and the other rushing ahead without the guide close by for reference. The false keel out of the box had a slight warp after delving into the rich resources the internet offers I soaked the keel and scrounged around for anything flat and heavy and left it overnight... No luck still warped... On to the next solution, namely a wet towel and an iron. I really wish I had done my research/had more common sense as after a bit of steaming I peeled back the warm towel to behold a horrifying sight of delamination... In my impatience I had steamed away the glue bonding the three parts together and now they were mockingly peeling apart right in front of my eyes. As I was waiting for glue to be delivered I promptly stuffed it back under the heavy flat object more out of shame than clarity. After an eternity or twenty four hours I decided to face the music and retrieved the offending object, swollen, snapped in places and slightly less warped than originally found I went work gluing back and trimming the curled timber. Unfortunately/fortunately for my ego as I didn't plan to make a log I have no pictures of the calamity. I went to work on the ribs and proceeded from there, a lesson learnt.
  10. This is my first wooden ship build, as mentioned in my introduction I used to build and fly radio controlled planes, I much preferred building them to flying! I decided to build HMS Beagle by Occre, the subject ships history is really interesting plus I think it is a beauty! Occre have step by step YouTube videos of the build which I'm sure will be invaluable. I have definitely jumped in with both feet but feel I'm up to the challenge! Instructions appear to be very detailed and walk you through step by step. I have made a small start on the false keel I am currently planking the false deck. Thanks for looking.
  11. I started this build log for one reason, there wasn't much of these being built for such an important ship. I tried my hand at the bluenose 2 as a first build and ended up abandoning her... let's just say one late night there was a shipwreck, might end up being a scratch build in the distant future. For know I'm tackling mamoli's kit. At first I noticed the plans are so much worse then artisana's, thank God for the interwebz as I'm learning how to build from those befor me. The wood as well is in very poor quality, I had a warp in the keel and the balkheads were very badly cut (all pre-cut by hand). The wood planks were all mixed up in one big bag, and some broke just by handling them, in part from the old kit and some just broke (5×5 broke in 1/2 cause if a knot in the middle). As a clear indicator of age on this kit... the little rubber bands that were suppose to hold a plank bundle together was basically brittle plastic that disintergrated on touch and stained the wood. I guess I grabbed a very old kit. I'm missing lots of wood like the blocks on the "nose" of the ship to round the plank into the keel. Had to fab up my own, no big deal but still a bit of a headache as this is my first real go at things. To do it all over again I wouldn't have bought the mamoli as the price of the kit isn't representative of quality in the slightest. Anyways, mamoli bashing aside her we go with a few pics. Of my cat... because why not start with that adorable face 🤣 These are the pictures I took upon opening of the kit. Anyone willing to guess at the age?
  12. Two months ago, I started making OccCre HMS Beagle. The Beagle is a famous ship used for exploration by Darwin, who discovered the theory of evolution. The kit is a production manual only, no drawings A detailed production video from the manufacturer is available on YouTuber. The material of the kit is rough in a nutshell, but the laser cut is accurate. As for the deck, I felt that the 60mm designation was too short, so I put up a 120mm long board. The sides of the board are painted black with a 6B pencil. I cut a 23g needle and attached a stamp with a nail mark. The inside of the blue work has been changed to Sapelli. There is no camber on the deck and it is flat, but it is difficult to change, so I will make it as it is. The door was made of wood. I bent it after getting it wet, but it broke. Falcata filler has been added to the bulkhead to make it easier to fix the wood with a thumbtack. The first outer panel has been pasted. I glued the keel before sticking the second tree. For the overlay, I pasted one gun gate and then two 2x5mm boards. I painted the wales black, stuck one Sapelli underneath, and then stuck it upwards from the bottom of the ship. The sheer rail 2x2mm was a little too thick. I painted it with natural milk paint. The white paint on the gun gate has been changed so that the lower part is about 5mm above the specified position.
  13. Hi guys, Here we go, starting my second ship. My first ship was HM Schooner Ballahoo, but I didn't make a build log for that one. To be honest I didn't think I would get very far with it. However, I did complete it and was quite happy with the result. During the build I relied very heavily on the build logs of others (especially The Lazy Saint) and now realize how important and useful build logs are to people new to the hobby. I'm obviously hoping this build goes well and I can get it completed. I must admit I'm still having problems with a lot of the nautical terms and the whole thing is a learning process for me. I started making plastic models of aircraft as a young boy back in the 60s and 70s (my father was in the Royal Air Force). That continued for many years, eventually moving on to military fighting vehicles in the 80s and 90s. Then last year, after a few years of deliberation, I took the plunge and got my first wooden ship, which as I said turned out okay. Now I'm converted Chimp
  14. I am currently building the Occre kit of HMS Beagle and noticed an error in the instructions. The channels for the main mast are attached the wrong way in all the plans, most of the pictures and in the videos. The deadeye chains get in the way of the gunport. The right way looks much nicer: I hope this helps prevent some mistakes! I hope I post this in the right section. If not, feel free to move this topic where it belongs.
  15. I decided on the H.M.S. Beagle because we had traveled to he Galapagos islands back in 2012. I purchased the kit on eBay after it was no longer available from the manufacturer. This particular kit was originally purchased in 1995, so it us already 23 years old. So far, I have scanned and OCR'd the instructions and parts lists from the original instructions. From that, I created a master parts list to compare to the inventory provided. Almost everything seems to be there, but I have two items that I need some help identifying. These were in the same bag as the cannon and carriages. They look like a strap to hold the wheel axles, but the bumps do not line up with the axle indents on the carriage. And I haven't been able to identify what these might be. Any help identifying these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  16. I bought OcCre's HMS Beagle a little over a month ago after seeing their fantastic build-videos on YouTube. Fascinated by both nature and adventure since a very young man, the Beagle, like Jacques Cousteau's RV Calypso, has always intrigued me. What must it have been like, at 22 years old, to hop on a [relatively] small sailing ship in the 1830s and sail off to the far corners of the world?! I have yet to read Mr. Darwin's account of his adventure, though it's been sitting on my shelf for quite some time. This is my second build log, and my first fully-wooden ship model.
  17. Hello all! I was recently commissioned to complete the Occre creative 1:60th HMS beagle kit for a cruise ship. I was given the commission early January for completion early February. This was my first real experience of working on a timber ship kit and it was great fun. The kit was lovely and I'd happily build it again, albeit at a slower pace. The ship is now gone and on its way to sail the seas of the Galapagos. due to the short timeframe on this project i had to take several modelling shortcuts which I'm sure stick out like a sore thumb but should be invisible to the general public. I also need to give some general thanks to those of you on this forum as your build logs were a great resource for me when doing the material and timescale research needed before taking on the commission.
  18. The HMS Beagle served as Charles Darwin's floating laboratory on his historic voyage to the Galapagos Islands. Drawings: I traced the drawings I needed to generate the modeling plans from the book Anatomy of the ship HMS Beagle using AutoCAD. The Keel Assemble The Keel Assembly is 24 ½” long x ¼” thick European Beachwood. Since this is going to be a Navy Board type model I simplified the keel and framing. This set of photos shows the keel assembly and the first two frames. All the frames are double and consist of ten individual sections each.
  19. I hope I am in the right department here. If I am moved by administration please advise me and my apologies in advance. I have dabbled with SIB for some time. I make one every ten years on average. This is supposed to be HMS Beagle. I do not work from drawings. ( should do ) All is eyesighted and let's say...artists impression? I have seen some of the most exquisite models built by guys on this forum which leave me very humbled. They are just brilliant with all their tiny detail. I love ships but am a bit of a bluffer. I put in what I think looks good and ignore scale as it is too much for me. It is supposed to carry seven boats I read. This, on this scale will be too overpowered. I have tried my best. I am a non nautical but love what I see in ships . I have the boat hanging over the stern on Daviits which should be a give away for HMS Beagle. Plus all the other boats on board for the expedition. When I see what some modellers have achieved I should be ashamed as I have not applied myself fully to it. Anyway, here are my results so far. The main thing here is.....FUN! and I get plenty of it. Your ships though my brothers are an inspiration to me. We cannot hope to build anything without this. I have an attraction to Dimple bottles of the smaller variety. They have their own stand. Trouble is I get quite Ill for five days having downed a bottle in one evening! Maybe I WAS a sailor in my past life? Ha ha. I do know though that us modellers have a vivid imagination of the past and that's why we do what we do. Here's the pics. " Weigh Anchor and set sail me boys" Or have I got it the wrong way around? Said I was bluffer!!! In hindsight...I Christen this ship..." HMS Bluffer ". Pete
  20. The first big ship build I've undertaken and have been working on for awhile. This kit is from Dusek and was produced after they took over production from Mamoli after the fire at their factory in Italy. Dusek is in the Czech Republic. From seeing pictures of previous builds of the original kit, it looks as though Dusek changed/improved some of the materials used. The bulkheads and frame are of a different type of plywood, and the keel is now made of walnut. I've recently experienced good customer service from the company's owner Daniel. I had reached out on their website to see if I could get a replacement keel for the one I butchered attempting to carve a rabbet line in, and got a very fast response. Daniel sent me a new frame and the sheet that contained the parts for the keel that I received in about a week. I don't know if this is standard practice for them, but it was nice not to have to buy a whole other kit just to replace the keel. They are now producing a majority of Mamoli's original line of model ships.
  21. Hello every one, My first build log for a wooden ship.... I have been modelmaking for many years, mainly architecture and space craft structural models. For those of us ancient enough to remember them, I started off in the late '40's on Micromodels, a Roman period ship.....something must have stuck and thank goodness for having a keen modelmaker in an elder brother who taught me so many skills. I did start a plank on frame model of the Endeavour some forty years + ago but my then five year old daughter sat on the keel... why had I left it on the sofa ? I was also then gathering and researching material for the Beagle but such material was scarce. Even the National Maritime Museum could help but little, with one sheer plan of a Cadmus class brig sloop. But then, in 1997, came Karl Heinz Marquardt's extraordinary book. ( I already had his Endeavour and Nepean Longridge's Victory ). With further much later published discoveries regarding Darwin's cabin, deck layout and now Darwin Online and a full size Beagle projected + splendid recent books it seems logical to have crack at the Beagle. Have decided on a sectional / partially decked model with some framing showing in part admiralty style so no masting or rigging. I also intend to finish her in a 'well travelled' condition. But .....I am a great project starter but appalling project finisher.......fingers crossed. The majority of the work will be / is in lime, easy to work and have used it in the past. No doubt I will have questions for all you experts out there as the build progresses. Finding this web site was a revelation....such wonderful work within its pages..... So have made a start .The pics below are, I hope, self explanatory.
  22. Years ago I purchased a kit of hms Beagle already started by another modeller, I have now decided to start my model as "Fisching schooner" is coming to an end. Here's how it appeared at the brig at the time of purchase . Mauro
  23. Nothing to post yet, I just wanted to set up the topic so it'll be ready when I am, probably in the next day or two.
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