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Found 28 results

  1. Seeing the Bluenose II off the starboard beam of our cruise ship last fall, sparked my desire to build a model of her. She was an awesome sight and I was convinced this would be a great project. Then I started to do some research and figured I needed to cut my teeth on some simpler builds. I purchased Steve Rogers “Model Boat Building Made Simple” and built my first rowing skiff. I had so much fun I went on to build his “Spritsail Skiff” and am now working on his “Skipjack”. But in the back my mind, the Bluenose II was a constant presence. Using the measured drawings from L. B. Jenson and Gene Bodnar’s wonderful Modeling Practicum, “The Queen of the North Atlantic ―The Schooner Bluenose”, I started lofting a 3D model of the Bluenose II in SolidWorks. This has taken me almost a month. It is amazing how intimate one becomes with the lines of a hull through the process of creating a 3D model. I had many false starts, but finally developed a simple set of equations and a table that describes the spline control points for all of the frames of her hull. I imported and scaled the side view, top view as well as the hull lines as my starting point: Resulting in my final model: Now, as they say, it is time to make some sawdust: Now I go into mass production mode as I need to make over 60 frames. It is bizarre timing, but today I reported to work as usual and was immediately sent home due to the Covid-19 crisis. My company is limiting on-site access and having us work from home. I don’t know how that will work out, but at least I have some time to crank out more frames. 🙂
  2. Welcome back everyone! I will get this restarted in a couple of days when I am back in town. In the meantime please PM me if you have a copy of any part of my log from before. The name change is due to my fat fingers when trying to register. Thanks to Chucks fine work, I was able to retrieve my old name! Now I can move forward without getting confused about who I am! There are three main goals in doing a build log for me. 1) it helps keep me motivated from time to time when the doldrums strike. 2) It is a great place to bounce ideas off people and get some great advice. I may not always go that way, but I consider everything very carefully even when I don't follow it. 3) It is my hope that sharing my issues and pitfalls may help someone else along the way. So here goes: Bluenose log 2.0 Thanks, Bob
  3. Okay, call me crazy if you like as this will be number three of models that I will be working on. But as I haven't encountered any problems with this one, I will proceed with the build of the famous Bluenose. This while I wait for parts for the Syren and Solo. I guess this kit doesn't need any introduction or picture of contents. So I will leave that out, however I do have extra material that I will be using later while building her. This extra comes from Syren Model Company, with other word our dear Chuck Passaro. This kit was bought many years ago and the keel and bulkhead plywood is still straight. When I was putting the false keel pieces together it turned out so straight I was amazed. The plywood is very nice and very little sanding is needed to get the bulkheads into each slot. Creating the rabbet was not as hard as I thought. Just being careful at the bow where the rabbet is extreme. I pre-beveled the bulkheads so there will be less sanding once they are glued in place.
  4. Good Day I am busy building the Bluenose by Amati. I'm new to ship modelling and are gettting all the tools ect as the need arises. So, here is the thing; Im looking ahead at the painting on the bluenose and all the accents. Now I know the hull to be black, white and red, however, Im not sure on what type (Acrylic or Enamel), what shades of the colors to use and should I use Matt or Gloss? Does the wood need to be primed before it can be painted? If anyone has built this model before (as many has) could you please advise on what paints was used ect. I want this model to look as close to the original as possible. Thanking everybody in advance for their help and advice.
  5. I've started my second build - the Bluenose. I've had this kit for about six months, but didn't even open the box until I finished my Phantom a couple weeks ago. The Phantom was my first build, to get me exposure to basic ship modeling and rigging. I chose solid hull for that one so I wouldn't have to tackle hull planking. I chose the Bluenose for my second build because it still has relatively straight-forward rigging, and the hull planking doesn't require a lot of complex work. It is also a little larger scale, which lets me focus more on detail. I spent about a week 'preparing'. I scanned in all the plans, inventoried and labeled parts, etc. For this build, I've purchased Bob Hunt's practicum, which I'll be following only partly. I got the practicum because sometimes I just want to sit and read how somebody tackled the build - even if I end up going my own way. Knowing this was going to be my next build for some time, I've been following a number of Bluenose builds here on the forum. Build logs from bhermann, darr, jrw1970, dborgens, mrjg, and popjack (among many others) have given me a ton of tips, a lot of inspiration, and a good deal of insecurity (you guys are soooo good at this....). To get started... All the parts were inventoried and labeled. This is my fourth kit from Model Expo (two Model Airways planes, second Model Shipways ship), and this is the first time the wood has come labeled. I had my caliper out ready to start measuring and sorting wood stock. Maybe I was just unlucky the first three times. Keel Assembly The three pieces of the keel were cut out and assembled. This took a few days, because it didn't go smoothly and I knew that messing this up would have repercussions. Two major problems...first, the third piece simply wasn't the right size. It wasn't an issue with the tab - the piece was physically taller (top and bottom) than part #2. So, I drew on the reference lines from the plans (since I guess reference lines are there to refer to) and used those to decide how to line things up. A little sanding, a little shimming, and I've got a keel. It came out straight, so I'm happy. The second problem with the keel was that while sanding off laser char on the top of section 2, I guess I went a little crazy. Ended up with a beveled edge where it meets part #1. I took too much off. Solution? Take more off! I leveled it out, glued on some thing wood stock, and brought everything back into alignment. So, the rabbet... Rabbet It looks days for me to get the nerve to make the first cut. I've read everything I could about cutting the rabbet, but none of it gave me much confidence. With my first POB build, something about carving away at the keel I just spent days aligning didn't make me very comfortable. Most of the stuff I've read is either discussions on what the rabbet is (which was helpful), or it was build logs that mentioned how concerned they were about cutting the rabbet, but that it wasn't much of a big deal. So I guess on the other side of this, I'll be fine... I tried the 'cut out a copy of the plans and trace the lines' method, but I wasn't happy with the result. I had little confidence that it was 100% accurate. So, I measured the distance from the deck to bearding line at each bulkhead, and transferred that to the keel. Then I measured the distance from that to the rabbet and marked that on the keel. I ended up with a series of 'dots' at each bulkhead. Then I used the cut out plans, aligned to these dots, to trace the lines. Doubled checked against the plans, and I'm good to go. Awesome! I've managed to stall cutting the rabbet for a few more days! Finally, I got up the nerve to cut. Here's how I did it (which may be totally wrong, but it worked...) Score both the rabbet line and bearding line with a #11 blade. I started between bulkheads I and J, and I did one bulkhead-space at a time. Take my chisel x-acto blade, and push it into the score on the rabbet line, matching the angle for the bottom of the plank. I cut a small (1" long) piece of plank to help with the process. This gives me a lower 'lip' on the rabbet at the right angle for the plank. Repeat this for the length of the section. Take my chisel and carve down from the bearding line to the rabbet line, where I hit the deeper cut I previously made. Big chunk of wood comes out. After I've 'roughed out' the section, drop the test plank in and slide it along the cut. It should sit at the appropriate angle against the hull, and anywhere that it doesn't seam up with the rabbet line just right gets some touch-up work. Repeat for every section, on both sides. Sand when done. Everyone was right - it isn't hard, and doesn't take that long (maybe 2 hours total spread over 2 days). Maybe there isn't much discussion on how to actually make the cut because after you've done it once, it's no big deal. I added reinforcement blocks over the joints in the keel (just seems like a good idea, and all the cool kids are doing it). Then I started dry-fitting the bulkheads. I've lightly sanded each of the bulkheads - removing just enough laser char to keep me from smudging everything any time I touch the parts. The rest of the laser char should get cleaned up when I fair the hull. Like many others, my bulkheads came as plywood. They seem stronger, but they are a little harder to work with (cut/sand). Each one has been lightly adjusted, along with the slots in the keel so they don't fit too snug. Next steps will be to install the sternpost and trim the tops of the bulkheads. I know some people chop off the tops of the bulkheads and use fake stanchions, others follow the MS instructions and trim them back so the bulkhead tops become some of the stanchions. I'm not 100% sure which way I'll go, but I figure if I trim them before they go on, I won't risk breaking anything, and if I cut them off later all I've lost is time. After all that is done, I might be ready to start gluing in bulkheads...
  6. Where in the world have I been? I had a '69 LeMans that I sold and I gave a lift away creating a LOT more space in the man cave. Went through and sold or tossed tools I'll never use again, actually everything I could find. I forget what it's called and where I got it but I'm sure one of y'all will know. Detailed instruction on the build. Comes with a disc with photo's. Lost it. I have the photo's, but not the book. Well for the first time in the 11 years we've lived here, the wife can park in the garage. I was able to add an additional 6' bench and some shelving and I installed some 4' LED lights. NO heat! Almost as bright as my T5 HO's. Spent 2 weeks with the Grand daughter as we do every year. We always go to Arnold, Ca. and rent the same cabin. There's a road that is LONG and down hill and the last half mile is un-cared for. Lots of pot holes, dips, bumps, grooves... Our bikes have shock absorbers, but it's a rough ride. She says she's trying to get me killed. I'm saying, the only will I have is a living one. I fell off my bike twice getting on it. Wife led the way in the truck with the flashers on and brought us back to the top. We make the run 3 or 4 times a day. We also go every year to see the Sequoia's and see the tree you could drive through. As man of you know she blew over this year. Can't even recognize it. Next year we're going to Lake Shasta, Ca. and renting a house boat and jet ski's. She'll be 16 then and I'll be older. I'll post the first pics in a bit.
  7. So - after several hours without a model in the drydock (which is actually a lie - it just wasn't out of the box yet) I've started my Bluenose build. I haven't got further than seperated the keel and bulkheads from their sheets yet, and started some careful sanding to get rid of burn marks before my first questions pops up. 1. Do you cut the rabbet line before or after you have assembled the keel? I'm leaning towards before to make the handling easier. 2. Do you bevel the bulkheads any before you add them to the keel, or do you do all the beveling after assembly? I'm wondering if assembling the jkeel and put everything temporarily in place and then bevel a little bit here and a little bit there until everything is smooth is my plan - unless someone persuade me otherwise.
  8. Hi, I have started this kit in 1994. At that time I was used to do some plastic modeling (aircraft, tanks) mostly in 1/72, some RC cars and wooden sailing planes. Also, at that time I took the contents of the kit as they were without judgment. I built the keel and the bulkheads, planked the deck, painted the waterways and did most of the planking of the hull. This was done by December 1998. Then it sat on shelves and tables (always in my vicinity making me feel guilty) for around 12 years when I decided to pick it up and finish the planking of the hull. By that time I saw that the hull is warped, but there was no way to correct this at that point without having to rebuild the whole thing. Another 3 years later, last summer, I decided to start working on it again. I did some research, joined this forum and drilled the holes fort he masts. Then it sat on my desk again… Around two months ago I have taken up work again. I started with creating some space where I can work. This helped ;-). Again I did some research and made some decisions: There are some building mistakes I made early on (2 decades ago). The result is that the build is not quite like I would have liked it to be. Examples are the warped hull and the planking to which I will get back later on. I have decided to go on with what I have so far. I will try to make the best out of it, but I will not rebuild anything. The kit is very limited. The instructions are abysmal, a number of parts are made from plastic and not very detailed and on a number of accounts the drawings are just plain wrong, as is the color scheme. I have decided to just enjoy this build for what it is and not be too strict about historic correctness. Still I will use the information at my disposal to correct the kit where I feel comfortable that this is done relatively easily (this is my first build after all). Examples are the colors and the placement of some deck structures. Picture 1: looking at the hull from front to aft you can see that the hull is warped. Looking at it any other way this is not so apparent however. I have decided to leave it like it is. Picture 2: planking was done 16 years ago and 3 years ago (the newer part is still light of color). Picture 3: planking mistake at the bow: somehow 16 years ago I planked onto the center keel as it was. No word about bearding lines or rabbets in my kit’s instructions… Since I am going to fill and paint the hull I think I can fix this with a Dremel and some filler. I’ll save that for later. First I want to get the deck, waterways and stanchions, etc. in shape. What worries me a bit is all the nails in the hull. I remember it was great fun planking using a dot of wood glue and fixing the plank with little nails (like in the instructions) because it added to the sense of "building" something (of wood). However I am not sure what I am going to do to make sure one does not see the nails through the paint as some most heads have not been sunken into the wood (this would split the planks).
  9. Okay, here we go with a full on proper model ship from a kit. I've got all the instructions, both AL's (thanks to Heronguy for providing those pdfs!) and John Earl's articles about its construction. I'm setting up my workspace and waiting for file to be uploaded to icloud so I can reference them on my ipad. I wanted to just print them out but these stupid refabricated print cartridges aren't being recognized by my printer so gotta go get new cartridges. Won't let that stop me from getting started. I was going to wait on this until I finished the Red Dragon but it has been mentioned that the BN2 is a pretty good starter build. Not easy, but the hull is more straightforward than others. Which is good because I've never done actual planking before. I had some intro with the Sakkonett but that was just four pieces of wood soaked in ammonia solution then shaped. Easily managed pieces. No calculations. No marking plank space. Etc. But I've got good resources and am ready to get a move on. I cope with depression in various ways, and this is one of them that has helped the most. No photos yet.
  10. This is my first build log as well as my first wooden ship. I've had this ship for a couple of years now, received it as a birthday gift. Due to nerves I think this may be the reason it took me so long to get started. Finally I figured since this is my first wooden model I would just go for it and see what happens. So far I have completed the laying of the planks on the port side of the hull and I'm now working on the starboard side. If anyone has any tip or suggestions I'm ready to hear.
  11. This is my first foray into scratch building, so I thought I would start with something small yet recognizable. This bottle Bluenose II is actually going to be a gift for a friend that hails from the East Coast of Canada and calls Halifax home, although he has been all over the better part of this vast country. I would like to start with a little bit of history. The original Bluenose was constructed in Lunenburg, NS in 1921 as a fishing schooner. She spent only a year of her short life on the Grand Banks off Newfoundland fishing for Cod, and then went into racing other schooners of similar style and purpose. She finally succumbed to a death at sea off the coast of Haiti in 1946. She is immortalized on the back of the Canadian dime, as well as having her own 50 cent stamp. Bluenose II was constructed as a replica in 1963 using the original Bluenose plans. The only difference between the two is the twin propeller engine on the Bluenose II. The province of Nova Scotia purchased the BN2 for $1 CAD in 1971. The replica was deconstructed in 2010 and a reconstruction was completed in 2013 with the same name On to the build. A while ago, by friend had purchased a bottle of Crown Royal Limited Edition Canadian Whisky. Once empty, this bottle became the inspiration for this build, as it is clear with gold leaf lettering on it. That and I thought that the Canadian Whisky would tie in nicely with a little piece of Canadian heritage. With no formal plans to go off of, this is going to be kind of like putting together Ikea furniture without the instructions. I did however take a boatload (pardon the pun) of photos of the AL Bluenose II I had build a couple of years ago. From the pictures I had determined the hull is roughly bullet shaped (the projectile itself, not with the casing) at the top deck. I have no idea what the scale is going to be, but I have determined the beam width is about 1.5cm, with a deck length of 7.3cm. I believe at this point I am just going to try for a waterline model, simply because I don't think I can carve out the keel from the 1/16” plywood I'm going to use for the hull form. After cutting out the rear deck on the scroll saw, I felt that opening in the insert in the table was too wide for such thin plywood so I had to pop out the insert in the table to trace a new one onto the thin ply. Two were needed as the insert is about 1/8” thick, twice the thickness of the ply. So we will wait at this point for the glue to dry on the two inserts before I attempt to slit them and cut out the rest of the formers. Until later, any comments, questions, or concerns are greatly appreciated, whether good or bad.
  12. Most of the way done on this build, will get some photos and notes here later...
  13. Hi all. I’m looking for some advice from the experts at Model Ship World regarding a Billings Bluenose kit #452 that I started about 40 years ago, but never got beyond the hull planking (you know how it is...marriage, work, kids...), and after reading some of your posts I realize how inaccurate the model is. It is supposed to be a 1:75 scale, but the hull measures 27” and the beam is 5 1/4”, which makes it, as far as I can figure, closer to 1:65. My questions are: 1. Is it worthwhile completing this or should I look for a more accurate kit? 2. If I continue, do I build it to 1:75 or 1:65? 3. If I do continue, can I replank the hull and deck without destroying the proportions? I’d like to try this to make it more attractive and accurate, especially the deck, which is 1 piece at present. 4. If I do replank the deck, can I redo the railings and stanchions in order to widen the railings for the belaying pins, and do a better job of the stanchions than I did first time around? Would I just cut away the old, except for the framing, and build anew on it? Here are some photos of my efforts so far. Many thanks for any advice. Paul
  14. Hi All, Just wanted to get my Bluenose log going. I'll post photos and more text tonight.
  15. So here we go! This is a model I built way back in my teens. I found it last week when I cleaned out my father's garage. It's been knocked about but it is in better condition than I thought, although there is 20 years of garage dust and spider nests on it. The kit was a very basic one and I have no idea who made it back in the mid 70s. I made all the little details myself and felt quite proud of it. (still am... ) I'm going to renovate it (I got the go ahead for a restoration log from the community at the "New Member Introduction) and at the same time upgrade it and add things to it that I did not have the money or skills to do when I was a kid. There is no grand plan at the moment and I guess I'll think of things to fix as I go along. First order of the day is a thorough cleaning! In order to get it home, I had to lower the masts. They had come loose anyhow, as had a lot of the smaller items on deck. But the easiest way to do this is to disassemble it as much as possible and after that see what needs to be done. I want to keep many of the original details for senitmental reasons, even if I could replace them with better things now, but some things irked me even back then. Things like the wooden beads I had to use since I could not afford "real" blocks, the crappy anchors I soldered from some wire hangers, the lack of oars in the dingies, and so on. We'll see where it all ends up. I also have to get hold of plans and pictures to work from. Any tips are welcome. I'll be looking for some inspiration on other Bluenose builds here as well. It will be slow work since I have a lot of other things to do, but it will be nice to have something to relax with from time to time.
  16. Hi all , So as I have a few days away from the office I decided to make a start on my Bluenose from model shipways . I'm not going to put up more pics of the actual kit as I found lots on here already . This is my first kit and I thought about buying the practicum from llc and still might if I get in to too much trouble . So to say it's a little daunting is an understatement ... I have built model aircraft a few years ago but my day job is on computer code and I'm not exactly a renowned handy man ... My wife is still waiting on some shelves to be put up a few years later .. Anyway I have unpacked and checked everything and all seems correct , I have studied some of ship modelling simplified and want to make a start on the keel so that it would be set for the weekend but already have a few questions .. So 1st off my work bench is actually my wife's craft table so if you spot a lot of weird stuff on it , that's her's So I cut out the 3 keel sections And as you can see from photo 2 the stern keel is about 1 mm out of line from the center at the bottom it's fine at the top the bow end is fine Workspace Stern & center lower join Close up I also had a question around if I should mark the reference line before gluing and any advice on doing this correctly ? Should I sand the laser burn marks off ? Sorry for what I am sure are basic questions !!!!
  17. Today I started on my first ship build "The Bluenose I", I recieved the kit on September 10 2015. It is the kit from Model-Expo the 1/64 scale MS2030. I am excited to get started... I started with putting the keel together, there are three pieces that make up the keel with this kit that needs to be assembled and set over night for the glue to cure, then putting a bearding line and a rabbit line that needs trimming/cutting.. as of now the keel is sitting glued together till tomorrow, I'll try to keep up with photos as I build her. I would appreciate any and all comments as I keep up with building, so please give me all helpful tips and comments.
  18. Hello everyone, A few years ago I made the fishing and racing schooner Bluenose in the scale of 1:50. Here I will show you all the phases of making the model. That ship is the most famous but here are some basic data: Designed by William Roue and built by Smith and Rhuland, Bluenose was launched at Lunenburg, Nova Scotia on August 26, in 1921. After a season fishing on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland under the command of Angus Walters Bluenose was the next 17 year won in the International Fishermen's Trophy competition. In 1942 she was sold to the West Indies Trading Co. Her life ended on a reef off Haiti on January 28, in 1946. Displacement: 258 tonnes Length: 49 m (160 ft 9 in) o/a 34 m (111 ft 7 in) LWL Beam: 8 m (26 ft 3 in) Draft: 5 m (16 ft 5 in) Mainmast, height from deck 38 m (124 ft 8 in) Foremast, height from deck 36 m (118 ft 1 in) Sail area 1,036 m2 (11,150 sq ft) Mainsail area 386 m2 (4,150 sq ft Bluenose photo: my drawings: Matija
  19. Question: Does anybody have a picture of of their model with the hull painted with Model Shipways "Hull Bottom Copper Red"? Reason I ask is that I just purchased the paint set to go with my Bluenose kit. However, after looking at the sample on the page for that specific paint, and the color of the paint on the actual Bluenose hull, the color seems way off. However, Model Shipways also has it listed as Venetian Red, which going by generic samples on the internet look like it might work? Also, why does Model Shipways claim that their acrylic paints are ideal for airbrush use, but then put a disclaimer immediately below the description claiming that their paints are not compatible with airbrush use? Here is a copy + paste of the paint description: "High quality acrylic based paints can be thinned with water, thinner or alcohol. They clean up easily with water, making them ideal for airbrush use. Brushed or sprayed, paints dry flat with good grain structure and a smooth finish. 1 oz. bottles. Note: color swatch you see will vary due to computer monitor/calibration differences and the fact that the computer screen is RGB. Color description at top will give you the best idea of the exact color. Model Shipways paints are not compatible with airbrushes." Just slightly confused here! LOL!
  20. Model Shipways Bluenose Build Log 10-02-14 Hello everyone! Once again wanted to say thanks for the very warm greetings and overall wonderful site! I've seen numerous comments about doing a build log for help and encouragement, and that seems like a great idea, so here we go! :-) This is my first attempt with building a wooden ship model. With what research I have done, this seems like as good a choice as any. Aside from the ship generally being a pleasing design (at least in my eye! LOL!) there is also a wealth of resources and information available. The original Bluenose was built just a few years before my parents were born, and with the recent rebuilding and rechristening of the Bluenose II, it certainly is a subject that is very current. The ship does hold historical significance, and I suspect it has had a MAJOR influence on modern yacht racing. The reasons in particular for going with the Model Shipways version is: 1. Cost. Model Expo is currently offering a 40% discount on the kit (Code EM40), and the price dropped by $20 this morning, so I was able to purchase the model for $104, and had enough left over for the paints and a fresh set of chisels. 2. Scale. The fact that this model is in 1:64 (S-Scale) is a nice size to work with, and should make obtaining accessories like crew members not too difficult. 3. Wealth of build information. Gary Brinker over on YouTube (That is his channel name BTW) is doing a detailed build log of his model, and thus far has done a wonderful job showing both his progress and the issues with this kit. Also there are any number of other build logs, practicums, and pictures to work with. 4. Instructions and plans. Again from the comments I have read elsewhere, this model seems to be the best of the bunch in this regard. For a first time out, my opinion is this would be critical. 5. Accuracy. I actually was looking at the Latina version of the Bluenose II initially, and while it does make a nice looking model (especially with all the brass parts!), I have to agree that it has quite a few differences from the actual Bluenose II. Can't speak for the Billings kit in that regard, but again considering the MS version cost less than half, it made the choice there pretty obvious. So where am I at this point? OK, the kit has been ordered as of this morning, and I should have all the tools necessary for the build (Although I thought it would be a good idea to get a fresh set of chisels while I was at it), so all I need now is glue! LOL! Otherwise I have been gathering resources and looking through them, and thinking ahead on how I want to approach this project. Looking at the way the hull goes together, it doesn't look radically different from building up a wing for an R/C airplane (which I have done a few times). Admittedly the planking aspect has me a little intimidated, but hopefully it's just a matter of working slowly and carefully. :-) Anyway, here are the resources I have been able to find online: First, the MS Bluenose instruction manual http://www.historicships.com/TALLSHIPS/Model%20Shipways/Bluenose%20MS2130/Bluenose%20ms2130%20Manual.pdf Gene Bodnar's practicum on modeling the Bluenose I http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_images/custom/msbimages/eisnor/bn-1-4/Bluenose%20Practicum%20Standard.pdf Another series of articles on modeling the Bluenose. http://modelboatyard.com/Bluenose2_Articles/ Robert E. Hunt's practicum... This only goes as far as the bulkhead assembly. Obviously he's looking for the modeler to purchase the rest of the document. Still a lot of useful information here! http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/PDF/bluenose_sample.pdf Photo journal of the actual construction of the Bluenose II. While I realize that there are differences between that and the original craft, the BN II was intended to be a reproduction, and I'm ASSUMING that the base construction/planking is going to remain essentially the same. http://www.mdphoto.ca/photos--mark-doucette.html Boating 101... useful for learning some of the basic parts of the ship! http://fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/ship/beginner.htm I've also managed to obtain copies of the following books: 1. Rigging Period Ship Models - Lannart Petersson 2. Planking Model Ships - Richard Mansir 3. Ship Modeling Simplified - F. Mastini 4. Ship Modeling Hints and Tips - Jason Craine 5. The Ship Model Builders Assistant - Charles G. Davis Finally Gary Brinker's YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPSQwZrSrxoIlsdUGhSipeA So that's about where things stand. All I can do now is wait for the kit to arrive!
  21. Post #1 My name is Darrel Wright and I'm in the process of rekindling an old hobby I put down some 57 years ago. To initiate this effort I've selected to model Model Shipways' Schooner Bluenose (1:64) because of its sleek and simplified hull affording simplified planking, which I look forward to, and an uncomplicated rigging scheme, which I'm somewhat intimidated by. I realize the Bluenose is a rather blasé model, having been modeled and logged perhaps hundreds if not thousands of times. However, I plan to write this log as a beginner for beginners, highlighting all accomplishments and pitfalls in an attempt to aid all who wish to embark upon the hobby. I'm starting a little late with the log as I'm just about ready to commence the hull planking operation. I will attempt to briefly articulate the steps taken to date that have brought me to the planking effort. Upon receipt of my kit from Model Expo, as instructed, I inventoried each item in the kit and found that one "open chock" and one bag of 12 "single blocks" were missing. I have contacted Model Expo for replacements, which should be forthcoming. Next I read virtually the entire instruction manual and reviewed the six sheet plan set. Additionally, I purchased and have reviewed the rather comprehensive practicum from Bob Hunt. Now to construction. Firstly, I removed the three pieces of the keel from their billet and sanded clean the billet residue. I then dry-fit the keel and noticed a slight imperfection at the bottom line of the assembled pieces. I concluded these minor imperfections could best be taken care of after assembly with a clean-up sanding. Using a very straight piece of partical board as a work surface, covered with waxed paper, I applied white carpenter's glue to all edges to be joined, and then tightly fit the assembly on the board. I then covered the keel again with waxed paper and laid a heavy 2" X 10" board on top to let the assembled keel set over night. Upon retrieving the keel the next morning I began the delineation of the bearding and rabbit lines. I had made full size copies of the plan sheet that contained the keel. I precisely cut out the keel at the top line and the rabbit line. I then placed and taped the template to the keel, and then, with the aid of an architectural French curve, (more about that later) drew in the rabbit line on both sides of the keel. The next step was to cut the template along the bearding line and repeat the same procedure to effect the location of the bearding line on both sides. At this point, as recommended, I glued scrap pieces of wood at the two keel join points for extra strength. Ah, the rabbit cut! My goal here was to effect a cut along the rabbit line no greater than a 1/16th of an inch deep so as not to cut through the keel when both rabbit lines were installed. Using a tip provided by another member of this blog, I placed a piece of masking tape up 1/16th on an inch from the tip of my exacto knife blade, and at the approximated angle of my cut. Again, using architectural French curves for alignment, I successfully made the rabbits cuts without disaster. Note: I later learned from someone on this site to use ship's curves as opposed to architectural French curves. Much, much easier! I have subsequently purchased a set of ship's curves on Amazon.com for $22.00 US. Creating the rabbit via chiseling is a somewhat tedious process, and most definitely a learning experience. The right angle, the right depth while keeping it aligned with the bearding line all come into play. I've noticed in some photos (even the Model Shipways promotional photos) a slight bulging of the planking at the "deadwood" where it dies into the sternpost. I assume this line should be adequately faired so as to render a smooth transition into the stern post. On my model I removed a fair amount of deadwood between the bearding line and rabbit in order to create this smooth look. With the keel prepped it was time to fit and install the bulkheads. Again, I cleaned them up, and then placed them on the respective plan to check for correctness. All seemed reasonable well with respect to size and shape, and thus I began to fit them onto the keel. With the exception of three bulkheads all fit quite well, standing at the desired 90 degree angle to the keel. I deftly mended the slots on the three tight fitting bulkheads and proceeded to glue and install them. For this installation I used Zap-medium CA glue, and in retrospect I would suggest using glue with a longer cure time to permit any adjustments prior to setup. (Mistake #1) I got quite lucky as all bulkheads came about as close to 90 degrees as possible thanks to Model Shipways accurate laser cuts. Now to what I, and virtually all experienced modelers, consider one of the most important aspects of ship modeling, the fairing of the ship. I vaguely remember, from my youth, not understanding the importance of this critical operation and thus wound up with lumpy, bumpy hulls. This time, though I may have occasionally "over worked" the wood, I was determined to have every plank sit fully and naturally on each bulkhead in all locations. I suggest using a piece of planking as a batten to constantly run up and down the bulkheads to insure compliance in all locations. In my zeal to properly fair the ship I snapped off the very fragile stern piece at the rudder post. (Mistake #2) After several attempts to just glue it back together (not enough wood surface to do so) I fashioned some support timbers and devised clamping system to reinstall it with the correct alignment both vertically and horizontally. Live and learn. Also note the three missing bulwark stations. (Mistake #3) These were not victims of overzealous fairing, but departed due to the trimming of the stanchions to 1/8th inch as called for. Take note that the bulkhead plywood is very fragile and crumbles when cut. I believe I can span the missing stanchions location with the bulwark planks and replace these stanchions when the false stanchions are installed. I'm now at the point of installing the waterways and commencing the planking operation. I've elected to do something that may not be proper procedure. Because I desire as crisp a model as I'm able to fashion, I have elected to prepaint the waterways, bulkhead stanchions and the inside of the bulwark planks so that I don't have to 'cut-in" the white and grey paint after completing the installation. I fully realize I will have touch up, but that's preferred to trying to cut-in paint, in a tiny hard to access location with, these aging, aching and shaky old hand. I've enclosed some pictures for your review. Darrel
  22. I joined this forum in February with the express desire to obtain as much information as possible before beginning my first build. I have remained in the background, so to speak, reading the posts on kit selection, tools, and building techniques in an effort to begin with a model that would not overwhelm me and piece together a workshop without breaking the bank. I found that most of the tools I already had, with the exception of some power tools and specialized model ship building devices. I have now acquired most of what I need to get started with the exception of a ship to build. My final choice was to be the HM Schooner Pickle, however, fate, or providence, stepped in and presented me with an unusual opportunity. Prior to my retirement in January, a couple purchased the house across the street from us. I didn’t have the time, while working, to get over to meet them and it wasn’t until about two weeks ago that I finally saw someone at the house. I introduced myself and found that these new residents were from Canada; which explained why I hadn’t seen much of them before this. In getting to know them it came out that I was getting into model ship building. Much to my surprise my neighbor told me that he had a ship model kit that he never had a chance to build. He went on to say that he brought it to this new house with the intention of building it, but was now finding he really didn’t have the time to work on it. A few minutes later he came over with the kit; which had not been opened. After some discussion we came to an agreement that I would buy it from him for $20. I therefore submit my build log for the Model Shipways, 1:100 scale, Schooner Bluenose. Jack
  23. This is my first attempt at a wooden kit, and didn't pay too much attention to all the warnings. Made lots of beginner errors, the planking on the port side is better than the starboard side.Having said that, it's a been a blast so far, thoroughly enjoyed the build to this stage. All I can say to the billings instructions.... WHAT INSTRUCTIONS? Next time round is the Model Shipways, USS Syren. (Advanced kit- silly man) The instructions are awesome. Billings... take note. Apologies that this isn't a staged upload, I didn't think about a build log until now. Hull complete apart from a few little bits; mast done and now time for rigging......
  24. Hello all! Way back in 2010 I started a build log (on MSW 1.0) for my Bluenose from Model Expo. This was my very first wooden ship model, and I found tons of help from the forum members. The ship was completed back in 2012, but alas, the build log vanished together with MSW 1.0. So now I am attempting to re-create this log through the tons of pictures I have left. At this point I have forgotten a lot of the build, but I can hopefully remember enough to make this useful for somebody. So, apologies in advance for all inaccuracies! Starting off with the actual kit from Model Expo: And some of the source material used during the build: Thor
  25. This was a project begun many, many years ago (pre internet) on the other side of Canada. After my initial enthusiasm I begun to realise that this kit represented more of a Scandinavian fantasy of a Grand banks choomer than the real Bluenose. Discouraged I lost interest and with the pressures of career and family my model ship building was put on hold. "Old Blue" accompanied me to Vancouver Island when I retired and eventually made its way on to the bench. if I was to resurrect this project I first had to accept the inaccuracies of the kit and my ability to remedy them. Having grown upin post war UK i learnt frugality at an early age and nothing is thrown away, Maybe rebuilt or recycled. I even save sawdust and shavingsand have put them to good use. Now my build log is lost I will repost some earlier photos and huopefully "Old Blue" like the Phoenix will rise from the ashes. I am enjoying the journey and not worried about the destination, Kip (aka sawdust)

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