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  1. Hi, Just join this site and what a great site it is 👍 I see that a lot of people (most from Canada) build the Canadian fishing schooner Bluenose 1921 and so happens I am building this too, hope this is not to many do like the shape and lines of this schooner. When I bought this model I also purchased the Fair-A-Frame from Model Shipways as well, while building I did modify it so that head stock would slide in a grove this makes it more ridged and keeps everything nice and square, also they show that the adjusting rail which moves to clamp the keel was at a different height than the one you glue down, so I notched the rail to allow both rails to be the same height, these are small changes which I found really helped. Did not take any pictures of the start when I joined three parts to the center keel once that was dried I took some tracing paper and traced the beading lines and rabbet lines onto the center keel. Next up was to remove 1/16 from bulwark stanchions just below the deck then took some tracing paper and traced each bulkhead so that I could mark out how much beveling I had to do all these bevels were done before gluing to center keel, also bevel inboard bulwark stanchions, once this was done I did a trial fit to see how it all fit. Regards Richard
  2. Okay, call me crazy if you like as this will be number three of models that I will be working on. But as I haven't encountered any problems with this one, I will proceed with the build of the famous Bluenose. This while I wait for parts for the Syren and Solo. I guess this kit doesn't need any introduction or picture of contents. So I will leave that out, however I do have extra material that I will be using later while building her. This extra comes from Syren Model Company, with other word our dear Chuck Passaro. This kit was bought many years ago and the keel and bulkhead plywood is still straight. When I was putting the false keel pieces together it turned out so straight I was amazed. The plywood is very nice and very little sanding is needed to get the bulkheads into each slot. Creating the rabbet was not as hard as I thought. Just being careful at the bow where the rabbet is extreme. I pre-beveled the bulkheads so there will be less sanding once they are glued in place.
  3. This will be my first build and I welcome any comments, suggestions and questions. Living in a duplex that’s built on a slab we don’t have a basement and the garage isn’t heated, so I’m using a desk the spare bedroom. I’ve done what I can to protect the desktop and the carpet below the desk. Since we will be spending the next week enjoying our last camping trip of the season I won’t be able to start my build until the weekend of October 20th. But I do have my work area set up and spent 1 ½ hours doing the kit inventory. My plan is to explain my next step as I go along and then wait for feedback from more experienced model shipwrights before actually doing the work. When I return next week I will be cutting loose the 3 sections of the false keel, marking the reference line and bulkhead stations on both sides and assembling the false keel. Any suggestions on cutting loose the false keel sections without breaking / damaging anything? Any suggestions on the best way to transfer the reference line and bulkhead stations from the plan to the wood? Looking forward to starting my first build, Dave
  4. Here is the nutshell version of my Bluenose build log to date. I previously had this build log on another forum, which I have now left and want to get it up and running here. Hull, Deck and Rails: The early stages of this build are very quick and easy. It’s not a difficult hull to plank. The deck is not too challenging either. I never know how best to finish the deck. Basswood takes a stain so poorly, so this time I simply used amber shellac which seems to work well enough. I know that many builders have found that the stern section of the rail doesn’t fit property. Mine didn’t quite fit either, so it necessitated making a new stern section. I did the rest of the rail in sections. The buffalo rail at the bow is an easy detail to add. The monkey rail which wraps around the stern and half way down the main rail is a bit tricky. I laminated two thin strips to make the curved portion at the stern. Deadeyes: I had to make a decision about how to approach the deadeyes. On the real Bluenose, they are secured with a bit of hardware that sits between the deadeye and the rail (not sure what it’s called.) The options were to try to recreate it with some brass wire, which I have seen many modelers do, or omit this detail altogether or opt for these cast pieces from BlueJacket. As you can see, I opted for the cast pieces. They capture the look of the real thing and I knew that I could never recreate the effect successfully myself without it looking too big and awkward. Chainplates: According to the plans and as shown in this picture, the chainplates are flush with the hull. The integral chainplates with these deadeyes would have been long enough to use them for the fore mast, but were too short to use for the main mast. On top of that, I knew I would never be able to inlay all twenty of them skillfully enough, so I cut them off at the waist I added strips of black construction paper. When all painted, it’s a compromise that I can easily live with. I used 1/16” masking tape for the white stripe, but I wasn’t sure how I was going to do the yellow stripe. According to the plans, the stripe is actually a groove running the length of the hull and is very narrow. There is almost no space above the scuppers to fit in and I was convinced it had to be very narrow to look right. So again, I made a compromise. I actually used a piece of styrene strip, .01” x .04” I painted it yellow, then glued it on. It's not strictly speaking correct, but if gives the effect and I know I could not have achieved a neater look any other way. Decoration: I practiced painting the decorations on black paper with a template cut out to the size and shape with key reference points marked. From a normal viewing distance of let’s say 50’ 🤗 it won’t look too bad. For the stern lettering I opted for the Masonic emblem rather than the Odd Fellows emblem. It was the Masonic one that it was launched with. I outlined my detective work on this subject in a separate thread: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24244-bluenose-and-the-masons/?tab=comments#comment-713347 So that catches everybody up. Now on to the deck details. Thanks for looking in! David
  5. After some prompting from Dr. Per (Nirvana) and a few others on the Forum, I decided I should start a build log. I started my Bluenose kit on June 15th after a lengthy wait for it to be shipped due to the Covid19 pandemic. I built several Revell plastic models including the big Cutty Sark when I was in my teens. I also got the solid hull wooden model of the HMS Bounty up to the rigging stage before real life took over. I never did finish it. So, I recently retired and decided to pick back up on this ship building hobby again. I've really enjoyed working on the Bluenose I. After all these years, I really consider this my first wooden ship model build. I selected the Bluenose because it is not quite a beginners model and I like the sleek lines and all the sails! I decided not to purchase any practicums. I've read a lot of the build logs for Bluenose while I waited for my ship to arrive. I'm mainly using the procedures detailed on the web site of the "Suburban Ship Modeler". I only have a few pictures from my completion of the initial framing stage. There have been a few challenges. For example I broke off the aft piece at bulkhead "O". I know this is not uncommon based on other blogs. I was determined not to have this happen to me. Then I dropped something on the floor and caught the aft piece with the top of my head!! Stupid!! No permanent damage. Just followed the advice of the others before me on how to repair it. It took 20 days and 44 hours to complete the framing up to the installation of the Stern blocks. Here are a couple of pictures of the progress at that time, July 5th. In the process I am following, Suburban Ship Modeler said to begin planking the hull rather then turning the ship over to plank after working on the deck stuff. This made sense to me. I am currently 12 strakes away from completing the planking of the hull. I will provide the latest pictures in my next post. If anyone has advice regarding assigning Tags or other steps on the Forum, please let me know. Thanks, Ed
  6. Hello everyone, This is my first build and I have never built any wood models before. I had a few issues so far and after looking all over the forums, I couldn't find any answers to the issues I had. So I decided, the best thing to do is document it and maybe some of you experts can lend a hand. Here are some of the issues and challenges I had so far. 1- The kit is the newer version of the kit from Artesenia Latina. It only came with a CD which kind of sucked since my new laptop doesn't have a CD drive. I had to borrow someones laptop from the 1800s and transfer the PDFs to a USB stick, then back onto my computer. 2- I tried to line up the pieces 1-15 as straight as I could without a square. Some of them are NOT flush with the top so I had to lift and hold them in place so they'd be flush with the false keel. See below. I ended up putting a piece of wood underneath it to make it fit with the rest. 3- Deck planking went well but the instructions said to dye the walnut pieces on the edge of the deck. It didn't specify a color. I used minwax cherry stain. Now, the instructions should really ell you to dye these pieces before you glue them because, even though I taped off the outside, some stain went under the tape and stained the white planks. I am wondering if I should strip and re-stain. I used a pencil to score both sides of the planks to give it the caulking look. I used only a few pins instead of 30-40 since I realized the AC glue I have is insanely strong and literally dries the moment i put two pieces together. This is good but also bad because you can't shift once you make contact. I'm going back and forth using the AC glue and wood glue depending on the risk factor. Finished sanded deck below. Everything going great so far. And than, the dye/stain screwed up the deck. Theres tiny blotches of cherry stain on the pine deck. See below 4- This was so far the biggest mistake I made, I used AC glue to glue the top part after painting the inside ivory. Unfortunately, it lifted up the ivory paint and spread it on to the stained walnut pieces. After all the work getting the planks to fit so tight, the finish is kind of amateur looking but than again, I am an amateur. Just my OCD is not letting it go. Now, onto planking the hull. The instructions are a bit weird. It says the bottom of the keel should be 3mm at the end when it's planked which would mean I have to sand it down to half the thickness which is a bit scary to me. Any advice? I started from the top and I am working my way to the bottom. I am not sure how I'm supposed to achieve a smooth curve all the way to the bottom since the bottom of the keel is currently square. Also I noticed, instructions said once I put the 2 planks past bulwark 12, it would be flush with the big side pieces. Well, it wasn't. I have a triangular hole. I'm hoping wood fill will fix it or should i cut a small piece of wood to fill the hole?
  7. Seeing the Bluenose II off the starboard beam of our cruise ship last fall, sparked my desire to build a model of her. She was an awesome sight and I was convinced this would be a great project. Then I started to do some research and figured I needed to cut my teeth on some simpler builds. I purchased Steve Rogers “Model Boat Building Made Simple” and built my first rowing skiff. I had so much fun I went on to build his “Spritsail Skiff” and am now working on his “Skipjack”. But in the back my mind, the Bluenose II was a constant presence. Using the measured drawings from L. B. Jenson and Gene Bodnar’s wonderful Modeling Practicum, “The Queen of the North Atlantic ―The Schooner Bluenose”, I started lofting a 3D model of the Bluenose II in SolidWorks. This has taken me almost a month. It is amazing how intimate one becomes with the lines of a hull through the process of creating a 3D model. I had many false starts, but finally developed a simple set of equations and a table that describes the spline control points for all of the frames of her hull. I imported and scaled the side view, top view as well as the hull lines as my starting point: Resulting in my final model: Now, as they say, it is time to make some sawdust: Now I go into mass production mode as I need to make over 60 frames. It is bizarre timing, but today I reported to work as usual and was immediately sent home due to the Covid-19 crisis. My company is limiting on-site access and having us work from home. I don’t know how that will work out, but at least I have some time to crank out more frames. 🙂
  8. I’m a proud Nova Scotian by birth, but employment has taken me far away from home. Perhaps a little homesick, I decided last May to take on the Model Shipways Bluenose as a means of reconnecting to a home that I haven’t seen in years. I grew up when the Canadian Heritage Moments were an extremely common sight on the CBC, and I remember always being thrilled at the one that featured Bluenose, because as a boy it always seemed to me that her story was proof that interesting things did indeed happen in Nova Scotia! I had been toying around with the idea of building a wooden ship for some time prior to this, and wound up getting the Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat kit as a warm-up exercise. I thoroughly enjoyed that build and the kit turns out a really beautiful result even with novice skills. I fell in love with the medium and the subject and it confirmed my feelings that it was time to take on Bluenose. I had actually attempted to build a model of her years and years before but the planking stage defeated me and I wound up passing the kit on to someone else, returning to plastic, resin and metal models for quite some time. As any reader can well attest, building wooden ships requires a different mindset than just about any other style of miniature construction and at that time I wasn’t there yet. Bluenose is well attested to in the historical record and there is a wealth of knowledge and information out there about her appearance down the years. Starting out, I made a very conscious decision to mostly not concern myself with this too much—what I really wanted to do was recreate what I imagined as a boy, standing on her deck as she heeled over under her press of sail. I respect them that devote the immense amount of time, effort and skill into ensuring that their models are near-perfect representations of the real deal, but my aim here is a little different. This being a learning experience for a larger-scale build, I am making allowances for my relative lack of skill and I’m not going to beat myself up for not producing a museum-quality piece right out of the gate. I have, however, made a lengthy list of deviations from what is correct or optimal, and written down a lot of notes on best practices and lessons learned as I’ve progressed through the build. I have a rather specific vision in mind when it comes to what the model will eventually look like. I intend to represent Bluenose in port after a day’s racing, so her sails will be furled. I’m personally not a fan of displaying a model with a full set of canvas as I find it’s very tricky to get right at the scales we are working at… and those sails never look quite right just hanging there anyways. I’m also toying with the idea of dressing the ship—presenting her with all kinds of bunting tossed aloft to celebrate the day’s events (and spelling out something particular in the signal flags, but that's still in the far off distance). The day that the model arrived (early May 2018), I got down to assembling the keel and laying out the markings for the bulkheads, as you can see here. My other hobby involves shooting antique rifles, so the digital caliper that I use for measuring cartridge length was pressed into service for this task and it’s been a godsend ever since. Next came the matter of installing the bulkheads. I chose the MSW kit after reviewing the build logs from this very forum and it did not escape me that several builders noted quite a bit of flex in the keel, and that the stern could be very delicate and prone to snapping if not reinforced. I used a bunch of scrap and even green stuff putty to build reinforcements that were added to stiffen the hull for planking and to add strength to the stern while it was being worked on—I did not want to see that snap off while I was fairing the bulkheads!
  9. Welcome back everyone! I will get this restarted in a couple of days when I am back in town. In the meantime please PM me if you have a copy of any part of my log from before. The name change is due to my fat fingers when trying to register. Thanks to Chucks fine work, I was able to retrieve my old name! Now I can move forward without getting confused about who I am! There are three main goals in doing a build log for me. 1) it helps keep me motivated from time to time when the doldrums strike. 2) It is a great place to bounce ideas off people and get some great advice. I may not always go that way, but I consider everything very carefully even when I don't follow it. 3) It is my hope that sharing my issues and pitfalls may help someone else along the way. So here goes: Bluenose log 2.0 Thanks, Bob
  10. I am presently starting a second log. I am not even 2 years into this hobby, plugging away at a Caldercraft kit, the HM Granado, and have now started a new (old) build. My neighbour purchased this kit 25 years ago in 1989 and completed it to the stage shown in the pictures below. Unfortunately, that is where it has sat for 24.5 years and fortunate for me though is that he has passed the kit on to me. I was very surprised at the quality of his work, certainly better that what I would have done on my first effort and maybe even on a second effort for me, specifically with respect to the planking. The kit though has some definite misgivings. 1) There is no instructions at all - not sure if they were present originally and subsequently lost but for me I have had to do a lot of research both on MSW and with a co-worker of my wife's who to my surprise has built 3 Bluenose and Bluenose II kits and lucky for me, was able to provide me with his instruction manuals and plans to refer to. 2) The quality of the kit components is certainly not up to par with the Caldercraft kit - for example plastic deadeyes and blocks which I will surely replace with wooden items. 3) Some missing parts but certainly easy to scratch build - for example the rudder and the cradle. 4) There are some minor mistakes and deviations from the plans made by my neighbour, but easy to fix. There are some positive items to the present build and kit though. 1) The hull is single planked but my neighbour has done a very good job (in my estimation). The nail holes are nicely countersunk and with a fine layer of wood filler, the hull is ready for primer and paint. 2) The deck planking needs a simple fine sand and is basically ready for a protective varnish. 3) The fixes that are required are easy to do - for example at the transom. Also I feel that I should first put some fake stanchions to make it more to the proper and original form. I should also cut some scuppers into the hull which I find more appealing to the model. And I will also have to create a waterway which I presume will have to be masked off and simply spray painted, first with primer and then a paint, given the current state of the model and difficulty getting a brush into the bulwarks and stanchions. There is a current build on MSW of this same original kit, presently not on the market, at this scale anyways, done by 7Provinces. Hopefully we will be able to collaborate a bit and I think the model will turn out quite well. Not sure on how fast my progress will be as I currently have another build on the go.
  11. I've started my second build - the Bluenose. I've had this kit for about six months, but didn't even open the box until I finished my Phantom a couple weeks ago. The Phantom was my first build, to get me exposure to basic ship modeling and rigging. I chose solid hull for that one so I wouldn't have to tackle hull planking. I chose the Bluenose for my second build because it still has relatively straight-forward rigging, and the hull planking doesn't require a lot of complex work. It is also a little larger scale, which lets me focus more on detail. I spent about a week 'preparing'. I scanned in all the plans, inventoried and labeled parts, etc. For this build, I've purchased Bob Hunt's practicum, which I'll be following only partly. I got the practicum because sometimes I just want to sit and read how somebody tackled the build - even if I end up going my own way. Knowing this was going to be my next build for some time, I've been following a number of Bluenose builds here on the forum. Build logs from bhermann, darr, jrw1970, dborgens, mrjg, and popjack (among many others) have given me a ton of tips, a lot of inspiration, and a good deal of insecurity (you guys are soooo good at this....). To get started... All the parts were inventoried and labeled. This is my fourth kit from Model Expo (two Model Airways planes, second Model Shipways ship), and this is the first time the wood has come labeled. I had my caliper out ready to start measuring and sorting wood stock. Maybe I was just unlucky the first three times. Keel Assembly The three pieces of the keel were cut out and assembled. This took a few days, because it didn't go smoothly and I knew that messing this up would have repercussions. Two major problems...first, the third piece simply wasn't the right size. It wasn't an issue with the tab - the piece was physically taller (top and bottom) than part #2. So, I drew on the reference lines from the plans (since I guess reference lines are there to refer to) and used those to decide how to line things up. A little sanding, a little shimming, and I've got a keel. It came out straight, so I'm happy. The second problem with the keel was that while sanding off laser char on the top of section 2, I guess I went a little crazy. Ended up with a beveled edge where it meets part #1. I took too much off. Solution? Take more off! I leveled it out, glued on some thing wood stock, and brought everything back into alignment. So, the rabbet... Rabbet It looks days for me to get the nerve to make the first cut. I've read everything I could about cutting the rabbet, but none of it gave me much confidence. With my first POB build, something about carving away at the keel I just spent days aligning didn't make me very comfortable. Most of the stuff I've read is either discussions on what the rabbet is (which was helpful), or it was build logs that mentioned how concerned they were about cutting the rabbet, but that it wasn't much of a big deal. So I guess on the other side of this, I'll be fine... I tried the 'cut out a copy of the plans and trace the lines' method, but I wasn't happy with the result. I had little confidence that it was 100% accurate. So, I measured the distance from the deck to bearding line at each bulkhead, and transferred that to the keel. Then I measured the distance from that to the rabbet and marked that on the keel. I ended up with a series of 'dots' at each bulkhead. Then I used the cut out plans, aligned to these dots, to trace the lines. Doubled checked against the plans, and I'm good to go. Awesome! I've managed to stall cutting the rabbet for a few more days! Finally, I got up the nerve to cut. Here's how I did it (which may be totally wrong, but it worked...) Score both the rabbet line and bearding line with a #11 blade. I started between bulkheads I and J, and I did one bulkhead-space at a time. Take my chisel x-acto blade, and push it into the score on the rabbet line, matching the angle for the bottom of the plank. I cut a small (1" long) piece of plank to help with the process. This gives me a lower 'lip' on the rabbet at the right angle for the plank. Repeat this for the length of the section. Take my chisel and carve down from the bearding line to the rabbet line, where I hit the deeper cut I previously made. Big chunk of wood comes out. After I've 'roughed out' the section, drop the test plank in and slide it along the cut. It should sit at the appropriate angle against the hull, and anywhere that it doesn't seam up with the rabbet line just right gets some touch-up work. Repeat for every section, on both sides. Sand when done. Everyone was right - it isn't hard, and doesn't take that long (maybe 2 hours total spread over 2 days). Maybe there isn't much discussion on how to actually make the cut because after you've done it once, it's no big deal. I added reinforcement blocks over the joints in the keel (just seems like a good idea, and all the cool kids are doing it). Then I started dry-fitting the bulkheads. I've lightly sanded each of the bulkheads - removing just enough laser char to keep me from smudging everything any time I touch the parts. The rest of the laser char should get cleaned up when I fair the hull. Like many others, my bulkheads came as plywood. They seem stronger, but they are a little harder to work with (cut/sand). Each one has been lightly adjusted, along with the slots in the keel so they don't fit too snug. Next steps will be to install the sternpost and trim the tops of the bulkheads. I know some people chop off the tops of the bulkheads and use fake stanchions, others follow the MS instructions and trim them back so the bulkhead tops become some of the stanchions. I'm not 100% sure which way I'll go, but I figure if I trim them before they go on, I won't risk breaking anything, and if I cut them off later all I've lost is time. After all that is done, I might be ready to start gluing in bulkheads...
  12. Greetings! It is good to be back in the Shipyard! A long time ago (2009)in a city far, far away (Buffalo, NY) I started building the Model Shipways Bluenose using the Bob Hunt Practicum. Got the hull all planked, and I was really proud of my work. Had a really good build log going. Then life happened, and MSW crashed. The last couple weeks, thanks to a Coronavirus reduced work schedule, I have picked it back up. I had forgotten how much I really enjoyed this tiny intricate work. I have started on the deck “furniture” beginning aft, and working forward. So far I have completed the cabin (with binacle, skylight, chimney and gangway) the helm, bitts and boom crutch. Currently I am working on the rudder, pintles and gudgeons, and the boom sheet buffer. I have several dories made, but really am not happy with the way they look. What I am REALLY bad at, is remembering to take pictures. Here is one snapped by my daughter last night while I was making ring bolts.
  13. Hi... New to the board and looking forward to sharing this log of my first build... in all honesty this technically my second build. I had started my first build (HMS Bounty by Artesania Latina) some time ago and was almost to the point where I was ready to start the rigging, but did not get a chance to complete the model due to work, family and life in general. Unfortunately when we moved the model was damaged beyond repair, so I never got the opportunity to complete the kit when I finally did get some free time... major bummer. Anyway, this will hopefully be the first kit that I will get a chance to complete. I have been lurking around on this board for a bit and spent some time reading through the Bluenose build logs that others have posted on this board, and they have been a tremendous help in helping me to understand the amount of work and potential issues that would be involved in the build. I am definitely very happy that I found this board and wanted to send thanks to all who have shared their knowledge and experience by posting their work. I will consider it a success if my finished model is a fraction as good as the builds I have seen on this site. I will be updating this thread with updates and pictures of what I have done so far, since I had already started the build before I found this site... in the meantime all the best and see you soon... Michael
  14. Last summer I got a Billings 100 scale kit of the Bluenose. My wife expressed an interest in having a model of a schooner so we did some on-line shopping and ordered the kit. It took some time but finally came last June. Laser cut parts were excellent and easy to remove from the wood. Plastic parts remind me of car kits of the '60's. So much more detail in today's extrusions. Nevertheless I used most of them. Planking the hull was a lengthy process as it is impossible to pin the wood to the bulkheads without pre-drilling the holes. Not being an expert at this kind of building I followed the general method of planking the hull but with the pieces being so small (1/8" x 1/16" roughly) it was difficult to taper them. So in some areas a separate filler piece was shaped and inserted. Then as the hull was sanded smooth I used ACC in some of the gaps and let the sanding dust fill them in. It worked quite well. The kit instructions were less than desirable. Numbers in some of the drawings indicated what some of the standing and running rigging were but there were no corresponding numbers for some lines in other views making it difficult to determine where the lines should go. But with some on-line investigation Most of the work was able to get done. We decided that the sails would be furled. Kit material was way to heavy and thick for the scale of the model unless it was to be built in full sail. Even then, doing the necessary folding of the edges, etc would have been very burdensome and time consuming. Probably not the way most furled sails would be done but the effect was good for this build was to use single ply facial tissue. I superglued the edges of the material sufficient to allow a pin hole to be punched through about every half inch for tying the sails to the booms. For the jib sails, I made small brass wire loops, ran them through the holes and closed them up. Thread was then run through each loop. This allowed the sail to be bunched up in front. The rest was tied off. Here are a couple of photos of the work in progress and the final result which we are generally pleased with. The deck pieces were also laser cut but had no lines for planking. I drew lines with a fine drawing pen and then coated the deck with clear polyethylene. I made a jig out of sheet plastic and cut two holes the size of the deadeyes. In between I cut a slot. The deadeyes were put in the holes with the pre-drilled thread holes aligned and then threaded them. Using a jig assured that all of them would be the same. Two jigs were made because the deadeyes were of two sizes. The shrouds were put in place first and ratlines were individually tied with clove hitches and secured with ACC. Then the ends were cut off. In the photo above the booms were raised but were lowered in the final build with furled sails. I'm sure there is plenty to pick apart by those of you who are a lot more expert at model boat building than I am. So go easy on the criticism, although it will be graciously accepted. Here's a 1/25 scale model of a piece of fire apparatus that is more my type of building. It is a combination of sheet plastic, sheet brass, resin castings and is scratch built except for the tires and wheels. It represents a 1954 Maxim 750 gpm pumper. The real one is still around and was photographed and measured for the build.
  15. This is my first serious attempt at building a wooden ship model, something I've thought about for years. My wife encouraged me to finally do it this year, so here I go. In addition to the included instructions and plans I'm following Bob Hunt's practicum from Lauck Street Shipyard. I've also viewed most of Gary Brinker's video log and am following CPDDET's build here in the forum. Let's see if I can not screw this up. Inventory of the kit took about two hours, mostly due to my lack of experience reading ship plans. I still have a few Britannia parts I can't identify in the plans, but the total part count added up so I moved on. As I told CPDDET, my kit's bulkhead sheets are....weird. There's some kind of tacky, almost sticky coating on one side of the plywood. Cutting the bulkheads free was challenging with the only blade I owned at the time - a #11 X-Acto. Since then I've gotten some #10 blades which are much better for freeing laser cut parts from the plywood sheets. Up to this point I've assembled the keel and finished cutting the rabbet and tapering the stern. The rabbet came out better than I expected. The stern tapering was the more challenging of the two for me. I have little to no experience carving wood and just tried to take it slow. For some reason I struggled with a #17 chisel blade. It worked well for the rabbet and also the aft edge of the stern, but I had trouble using it to create the gradual taper from the bearding line to the aft edge. For me the #10 blade was easier to control for this task The result was a pretty irregular dimpled surface that I'm not totally satisfied with. I had a couple of mishaps tapering the stern. A small chunk blew out of the starboard side of the stern's aft edge, right above the rabbet. I considered gluing it back it but have decided the stern post will cover it so why bother? It could have been worse and I'm glad the breakage didn't go all the way through the keel. I'm thoroughly enjoying this build. About 9 hours invested so far. Next up -- tapering the stem.
  16. Here's my new build model shipways Bluenose already seeing issue with the keel parts don't meet at the bottom so I'm not sure what to do there I will upload picture of it
  17. . I suppose we have to start somewhere. I plan to build a 1:24 scale version of " Bluenose". I have read in depth Jond's version and will follow it closely as it worked. He is a very patient and excellent modeller. Both my son and I are overwhelmed with the successes of this very famous Schooner. My son said that " this is a beautiful boat dad ....I just love the lines". It was only after reading further into it ( Bluenose ) That we became educated enough to realise what " Bluenose " was and what she represented. My son Damian certainly hit on the lines. He said without even knowing anything about her.." Dad....this is the ship to build". She is beautiful. My son is an artist and has an instant eye for beauty. He recognized in an instant that " Bluenose " had to be "it". At nearly 69 years of age it comes to the time that we listen to our siblings and no longer have to tell them what to do but do as advised!!!! We have started the journey into " Bluenose" and I guess it will never end as learning is endless. What a boat!!! I have made several ships in bottles, and a few kit builds but now the challenge is set for me. This ( to me) is a big challenge and I will need helping out. I am learning naughty terms....sorry ( nautical ) terms and have a thirst to learn more. Meanwhile hopefully, here are a few shots of how I am starting out. The first is of yours truly having just arrived home with a lot of red cedar logs. The second is of our building board specially built to the size of the yacht with two huge logs of cedar on top. The build board is mounted on a trolley with wheels so I can get to any part of the build. We live in Australia. The pics are of the building board for Bluenose and the huge hunks of red cedar we bought from my ol mate down the road lie in readiness for the hull planking. I have two more logs like this. So I guess a build log starts with exactly that. LOGS!!!!! The sheets behind are MDF to form the hull formers on which the planking will be done. The formers will be sacrificial. We await the plans from Canada which will be scaled up by double the size. I believe they are Eisonor plans. Pete
  18. There we go... 10 months or so. The kit turned out to be unusable, so the build is about 90% scratch.
  19. This new building log is meant to tell a long and broken tale of model building. The serious work began a few months ago when I decided to try to rescue this model and take it further along. Perhaps to stop it with a deck only completion since it would be so big to include rigging, or to breeze through and design removable rigging to allow sailing. Before we get in to that dialogue I thought it best to tell the saga of the 15 years to get it here. Fortunately that will only take a few posts. so here we go again I started to learn the trade, and truly I still am really only learning, by setting up a small shop in the early 1990's, at a former summer home here in Maine and building a wooden kit of a Dark Harbor 17 at 1:12 scale sometime in the later 90's. Like many I was working away and had dreams to be relaxing in a shop but realty kept us away. I never worked closer than 3 hours from this summer home and usually further. During these years I thought about wanting to build models that would sail. I had roughly ten years to go before retirement and thought that was time to try a few things and figure it out. My first venture was to buy an Antique Marblehead Pond yacht, vintage 1936. I restored it partially and then copied it building a new replica. In august 2001 I went to the wooden boat school in Brooklin Maine with my son for a fun vacation and learned to build a 50 inch new Marblehead class pond yacht. They were called Naskeags. They are pretty but built purely for the challenge of sailing. Then looking at the half built dark harbor hull, at 17 inches, and the half built Marblehead Naskeag at 50 inches I decided on a goal. I would continue to build kits or scratch of classic boats to develop some skill. I would continue to read and read some more about the maritime history as well as model building, and thirdly i would continue to build sailable pond yachts to get some to sail. Ultimately I would learn to scratch build classic boats at a large enough scale that would respect the design but also try their luck in the sea....harbor or pond at least. Gloucester Schooners were also first on my mind for a challenge. When did we start this build??? Some of you have followed my earlier attempts with a four masted schooner the Charles Notman and the classic 1938 Boothbay Harbor One design racing sloops . Well here we have a boat construction that spans the whole period of 2001 until now. Here we see the 1992 to 2004 shop. I got to spend a few weeks a year there prior to 2000 and then weekends. You can see the two Marblehead pond yachts that filled much of my time . Hidden just out of the picture on the right is the partially built Dark harbor model. Most important on the back left is the building board and stations for a scratch build Gloucester fishing schooner that will become the basis of this build. This photo is dated 2002 At the time I built this frame, my memory tells me incorrectly as I recently figured out, that is built it up form Gertrude's lines. With the outgrowth of windows 98 and Auto CAD lt 97 it is not surprising that I no longer have any of the cad I did for this build. Here you can see the roughness of the build. I was clearly over my head at the time and fortunately stopped. The keelson assembly is made of three laminated 1/2 sheets of plywood so it is strong and true. [ It includes keel, stem, keelson and made up structure up to the the transom based on pond yacht construction methods... See my other log for detail] This method is Good for sailing but the forward stem is a problem [ you will see later]. Is she Gertrude Thebaud, Columbia or Bluenose??? I could write for pages but the short version is as follows. I read that Columbia was the same size as Bluenose and considered to be the fastest ever built. Unfortunately she died young. Here is the text from Ship Wiki ...remember length on deck 141 feet · Columbia is a Gloucester Fishing Schooner. It was built by Arthur Dana Story from the design of Starling Burgess, at Essex, MA, 1923. The Columbia represents the final development of the Gloucester fishing schooner, famous for speed and seaworthiness. It participated a number of international races, including the one against Bluenose in Halifax. In August 1927 when it was hit by the two Gales, the well-known "Graveyard of the Atlantic", Columbia was lost with all hands off Sable Island. · For years my memory was I had decided to build Gertrude. All my files said it etc. anyway part of the reason is in the following text from wikipedi....remember length on deck 135 feet · \Gertrude L. Thebaud was an American fishing and racing schooner built and launched in Essex, Massachusetts in 1930. A celebrated racing competitor of the Bluenose,[1] it was designed by Frank Paine and built by Arthur D. Story for Louis A. Thebaud, and named for his wife, Gertrude Thebaud.[2] In their first meeting at Gloucester, Massachusetts, in October 1930, the Gertrude L. Thebaud bested the Bluenose 2-0 to win the Sir Thomas Lipton International Fishing Challenge Cup.[3] However, in 1931, two races to none, and again in 1938, three races to two, the Bluenose defeated the Gertrude L. Thebaud to remain the undefeated holder of the International Fisherman's Trophy.[4] I further learned that she went to the arctic in 1934 with MacMillan one year as Bowdoin stayed home. I continued to think I was going to build her and I remembered incorrectly that I had taken measurements from her scanned set of prints when I built the frame.......you'll see Bluenose. Here is intro from wiki pedia ....and again please remember length on deck 143 feet · Bluenose was designed by William Roué and built by Smith and Rhuland in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. She was launched on 26 March 1921, and christened by Audrey Marie Smith.[citation needed] She was built to be a racing ship and fishing vessel, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian fishing schooner Delawana by the Gloucester, Massachusetts fishing schooner Esperanto in 1920, in a race sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper.[citation needed] Bluenose vs. Gertrude L. Thebaud, International Fishermen's Trophy, 1938, final race ·After a season fishing on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland under the command of Angus Walters, Bluenose defeated Elsie (out of Gloucester), returning the International Fishermen's Trophy to Nova Scotia. In 1930, off Gloucester, Massachusetts, she was defeated 2–0 in the inaugural Sir Thomas Lipton International Fishing Challenge Cup by perhaps her most celebrated competitor, the Gertrude L. Thebaud.[2] However, over the next seven years of racing, no challenger, American or Canadian, could take the title from her.[3] The question again...which to build There are so many Bluenose models I thought for a long time about making an American boat. The designers Starling Burgess and Frank Paine come up again and again. The 1937 Ranger for us here in Maine is a big deal. The fact a new replica of Columbia sails and all who see her say she is a marvel. [ Images of the replica is easy to find on the net]. Well to be honest there is a funny story here on me how in the end the model became Bluenose. To make the original frame in 2001-2002 I obtained the 3/16 scale rough model plans from Piel Craftman in Newburyport, MA for both models BN and GT. While I was in his shop however I fell in love with another boat named Dancing feather. My rear admiral feels the feather is one of prettiest schooners she has seen so guess what took priority. On again off again working on vacations and moving houses to our current home [ means rebuild a shop] only it took from 2004 to 2012 to get this one far along and it was a real rough job much of which may be redone. Here she is a year ago moving away to live in the new sail loft and thus make room for Charles Notman to hold the shop entrance way display area. I had made her 3/4 scale to size at 50 inches on deck. I will never work in that odd scale again. In the mean time, I was assigned to work in Canada for 3 plus years and while I was there came across a set of really nice 1/4 scale drawings of Bluenose. These I now see are easy to get on line as are similar plans for Columbia. They are both drawing by Philip Eisnor and available though a sister site modleshipbuilder. Finally...we start again It is summer 2012. I am assigned to travel overseas but spend several weeks through the summer here in Maine. What to do...... Please look at my other two builds [ Charles Notman and Boothbay Harbor one design] for detailed discussions on the sailable hull build method. The plans were scanned, plumbed and inserted to CAD. The white paper inside on aft stations was printed off and attached to luan plywood. Blue tape separated a 1/32 birch plywood strip rib. The cedar is rough milled from 1"/6" stock to be 5/32 [ which only means 1/8 - 0 +1/16 tolerance] by 5/16 . We want to start faring the hull with no less than 1/8th wood thickness. Planks soaked in ammonia water then wood glue and toothpick pinning to the sstations through the ribs.. Here the laminations for the Keelson assembly are clear [see Notman build] . Notice there is no transom at this point. almost finished. See the roughness of the bow. As I said i was way over my head when I started this hull. Here we have all planking on and sanded. And here she goes back up to the ceiling for storage....it's 2012. and I am still thinking we are building Gertrude Thebaud. They sent me away for work again and it was another year before I could really focus on my modeling goals. This was the year I found forums like this one and started reading articles , sites like models of dummies, practicums and building logs. I was getting ready cheers
  20. Hi guys. I put a post up a few months ago looking for advice on what my first model ship should be. After doing some research and coming across Lauck street shipyard and chatting to Bob Hunt, I decided to go with the bluenose. Reason for this is after chatting with Bob and him explaining about his practicums, I couldn't pass up this opportunity as I failed at building a ship years ago and didn't want to go through that again! I bought his beginners course which is fantastic. I've a long way to go yet, but his instructions and photos are so much easier to follow than the kits instructions, which I think are so damn hard for any beginner to comprehend. Model expo do say "previous experience helpful" or something like that. To me, that's an understatement. If it wasn't for bobs course, I don't think I could even attempt to do it. I'm sure there are people here who have built it just by the kits instructions and fair play to you, but me being a first timer, I find them very hard to understand. I did build 2 other kits from expo, the Constoga Wagon which was a lovely build and the Wright Flyer which was very challenging, but lovely when finished. Anyway, I'll put up photos of my progress so far. I did make a mistake with the planking. I didn't taper the planks at the bow which meant my planks bowed alot in the middle and the gap at the bow closed alot quicker the the middle and stern which meant me closing the gap with bits and pieces of wood. I showed Bob and he explained about the tapering and advised me to take the planks off and redo it, because there was an unnatural bend in the planks and even though the hull was being painted, he said over time the planks might lift off the bulkheads due to the forse they were under. So I reordered more planks from expo, which I was delighted with them for sending me them and I replanked the hull. Well most of it. You'll see the difference in the colour of the planks where I redone them. I was able to run all the planks the full length of the hull. I have a build log in bobs site but it's for paying customers only. So I said I'd post here as well and see what others think. Here's my progress so far. Sry for the long text. My photos didn't come up in order as I posted them so apologies for that. Not sure if I can put them in order. If I can, can someone please advise. Thanks.
  21. Hello all, great to be here and thank you all so much for the wealth of info you've provided. I've spent hours reading and researching and preparing myself for the build to come. I've also purchased Bob Hunt's Bluenose Practicum and have read the first few chapters half a dozen times. I used to build model cars and tanks and planes and such as a kid but was never very good. That was 30 years ago. Since, the only building I've done is RC planes from sticks and reloaded ammo Anywho, I figured I'd get my log started here and now, even though my kit is still, apparently, on back order. I ordered from HobbyL Inc 6/20, the arrival date came and went, I contacted them and was informed the one remaining kit they had in stock was damaged, and now I'm in the backorder queue. Supposed to arrive and ship to me "in a couple weeks". That was a week ago. Fingers crossed... In the mean time and as I've said I'm reading, rereading, researching and learning. Even though I've yet to cut my first piece from its plank, I'm enjoying the experience. I don't expect this log to measure up with any of the excellent logs already here, but I would like to chronicle my experience as I go and in my way, so I appreciate the forum and opportunity to do just that. Something I'm still not clear on: I realize the Bluenose is an easy boat to plank but in reading I'm convinced soaking the planks beforehand is still a good habit to get into. I'm not sure if taper sanding is supposed to happen before, or after soaking (aka the boards are wet while sanding)? I've also read that the newer Bluenose kits use plywood for the bulkheads, which means fairing them can be challenging. My plan is to just take my time and sand using a block working until the planks will lay flat against each. Sound reasonable? Another concern I have is regarding the stern's filler block. I don't have a scroll or jewelers saw, so I'm not exactly sure how to cut the block down to size properly, and how best to contour it and cut the flat up-sweep. Need to figure that out. Very open to suggestions or links to others's suggestions. Lastly, I'm not exactly clear on how best to transfer the rabbet and bearding lines from the plans to the keel. I'm thinking on making a copy of the plans, cutting that copy to the rabbet line, pasting to the keel then following that cut with a pencil. Now, cut again to the beard line and again follow the new line with a pencil. Does that sound reasonable or am I missing something? Again, thanks to you all. I'm looking forward to delving into the world of model ship building!
  22. Hello All The attached images show the building log for the Bluenose II "Scratch build", I hope you like it. The photos are uploaded in the most recent order , sorry for that. Thank you
  23. Good Day I am busy building the Bluenose by Amati. I'm new to ship modelling and are gettting all the tools ect as the need arises. So, here is the thing; Im looking ahead at the painting on the bluenose and all the accents. Now I know the hull to be black, white and red, however, Im not sure on what type (Acrylic or Enamel), what shades of the colors to use and should I use Matt or Gloss? Does the wood need to be primed before it can be painted? If anyone has built this model before (as many has) could you please advise on what paints was used ect. I want this model to look as close to the original as possible. Thanking everybody in advance for their help and advice.
  24. Taking inventory and doing some reading. Here is some pics. 😁

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