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Found 10 results

  1. In August, after finishing my smack cross section, I started a new project. The first series of pictures are sorted now, it is time to start with the log of this new scratch project. Introduction Since ages, the ship model was the ideal tool to show how a vessel fits together. Ship builders used models to present their new designs to the admiralties. (painting 'A New Ship for the Dutch' John Seymour Lucas) In the 19th and early 20th century they were very suitable for museums to show to the general public how live on board of a ship was. (Picture of the old Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, borrowed from the website of the Rijksmuseum). And not least, the ship model was used as a didactic tool in maritime education. (Source of picture: fishermen's orphans during nautical education, 'IBIS' Orphan school in Ostend during the 50ties. Screenshot from archive movie 'Koninklijk Werk IBIS') I had my first naval training in the mid-seventies. In that time the era in which the ship model was a current didactic tool was already past. The ship model was replaced by slides on overhead projectors and video. Nowadays maritime education centers use Power point, smart boards, digital simulators, and all kind of virtual tools. But I still remember that the Mine Warfare School in Ostend had a series of beautiful dioramas to demonstrate all the different types of mine sweeping gear, in the seamanship classroom in the Naval Education Center they had all kinds of models of the rigging for replenishment at sea. We learned the maritime buoyage system with models of the buoys. During sailing classes we learned the different parts of the sail boat with the help of a 1/5 scale model of the Caravelle sailing boat. All those fine didactic models are vanished. I suppose that a lot turned into dust in cellars and attics. Some disappeared probably to private collections and hopefully some are preserved in museums although I didn't see back a lot of them. Up to now I have built some didactic models, two cross sections and a full framed fishing sloop with one side left open. From nostalgic motive I want to build a pure educational model. It will be a old fashioned school model, intended to learn a landlubber (or a new naval recruit) the different parts of a boat. The image below shows more or less what I have in mind: making a model of a stripped boat and naming all the parts of it. (drawing from 'Le Chasse Marée') I find a suitable design for my project in the book 'Apprendre le modelisme naval' (a publication of Le Chasse Marée). In the chapter 'Le modèle de chartente' (the model on frames) the boat carpenter Gerd Löhmann explains how to make a model on frames. The chapter is a description of the build of the mackerel cutter 'Marie', a small sailing fishing sloop of the type which was used along the Breton coast (France) before World war II. Gerd Löhmann built his cutter just like I would like to be my didactic model (Picture from the book 'Apprendre le modelisme naval'). The book contains also the detailed plans of the vessel on scale 1/10. The real vessel was built in 1928 and was 6.86 m long, so the model will be ±69 cm long. I will build it in cherry (Picture from the book 'Apprendre le modelisme naval'). Some time ago I got a few stumps from the trunk of a cherry tree that an acquaintance cut down in his garden. I have split the stumps into sawable pieces an stowed them away on a dry space. That is the wood I will use for my instruction model: Some pieces sawn into planks, ready to be planed to the necessary thicknesses. To finish this post, a word about the layout of this building log. I would like to make this project not simply an instruction model, but also a lexicon and encyclopedia about wooden shipbuilding terms. So, I will work in three phases: first the boat model, then the lexicon and finally the encyclopedia. My log will follow this sequence and will be build up in three chapters: I. The Boat II. The Lexicon III. The Encyclopedia Now I am ready to start. The keel will be laid in my next post. I hope I will be able to captivate you with this new project.
  2. To be honest, the boat in this diorama will be built near the end of the project. The diorama is going to be a working lift-span bridge with a boat traversing underneath it. The bridge fits on a 2.4 x 1.2 m (8 x 4 ft) tabletop. The scale is 1/72. There are no available plans for the bridge. Created my own plans from photographs and two diagonal reference measurements (road width and span length). An antiquated control console of the actual bridge will be converted to operate the model. Created my own electronics for the diorama. I am a volunteer for the Ballina Naval & Maritime Museum. They are funding the material costs. The diorama will be an interactive display for the museum. This is my second model I have ever built. The first was done 26 years ago. It was a 1/10 scale working Tesla coil used in Colorado Springs in 1899. The current model is halfway to completion. My task is not to make an exact reproduction, but a close simile. Available materials limit the accuracy, but I endeavour to do what I can. The boat is not following any plan other than my own. It has to look symmetrical because the boat only travels along a straight line under the bridge forward and back. Seventy percent of the project will not be directly related to the boat. I have considered the Shore Leave forum but felt that it would get in the way of all those fun threads and other non-modelling topics. So I hope you all don't mind me being here. The model is based on this bridge located at Wardell, NSW, Australia. The display area for the diorama will be something like this.. There are quite a few photographs to upload - to catch up to where I am currently at. When I do catch up I'll let you know in the post. to be continued.
  3. Hello, this will be my build log of the Model Shipways Phantom New York Pilot Boat. Some things about myself: I got this kit for Christmas. I am thirteen and don't have a very high budget for tools or other things. My parents are divorced, so I will have to bring my kit back and forth. Fortunately, my papa (father) has a good amount of tools at his house. I do have some tools at my mama's (mother) house which I am currently at. My work space is also a little small, but it is a small boat . I will now start counting and sorting all the pieces. Have a Merry Christmas and I'll be back!
  4. Hi, A work associate of mine has a pond yacht that he would like to have restored to how it used to be at one time. It belonged to his dad, who passed away a few years ago. He has no history of this model. Hull is 30 inches long and 6 inches beam. All there is is the hull which is a bread and butter build and it has split apart. There are a few brass fittings on the deck which can be seen in the pictures below. The mast step may have had a piece of brass tubing soldered on which has most likely been broken off and could be easily fixed up. It was most likely home made, but the keel looks like it could have been commercial. Searching through the internet, I can't find anything that is close,but I should be able to come up with something to approximate the sails, standing and running rigging based on other pond yachts. The only thing that puzzles me is the steering gear. If it had a brain gear at one time, I can't figure out the function of the pin rail that runs fore and aft in front of the rudder shaft. I've already sent an email to the Vintage Model Yacht Group in the UK, but haven't hear anything back from them. I've had some correspondence with someone else who figured the model was based on Marblehead pond racing yacht. Yes, it does have some similarity to a Marblehead, I guess. The puzzler is the steering gear. Would anybody have any idea what it could have been? Thanks in advance, Bill
  5. Hello, I just received the ship, imaged attached, and need some help with identification. This was a ship my grandfather started restoring that was passed to my farther and now me. I do not believe they were able to make much progress at all and I would like to at least strip off the old paint, repair the rigging and sails, as well as missing pieces. My first question is any idea the make or model of this ship? Or how to determine what the sale sizing and quantity should be? From there is there any place to order the rigging and sails from? I am an engineer so am typically good with my hands and repairs, but I know nothing about modeling ships. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also this ship is big, like over 40" X 14" X 40" I can provide detailed dimensions once I am home. Thanks!
  6. Hello. I desided to place this build log on MSW for several reasons. Although the model is complete before nearly 6 months, this boat is included in the biggest kits from "Master Korabel", and if build one of them, You will be must build this boat. This is very cheap kit, but You can build very nice separate model. And at least - this is simply, but not very easy to build kit. The parts are very small, must be glued and sanded very precise. It will be very good experience for You. This is my first kit from "Master Korabel" and I love it... Now, what are in package of this small 75 mm lenght boat: The boat planks are laser cutted from the pear wood. The other parts are from the pear too, except the oars. Now let's begin. At first make marks on the plate as shown in the photo. The red color arrows shows the laser marks. The green arrows - my marks by pencil. This will be usefull to place the parts before to glue it. Then removed teh keel parts as the shown from the plate. Then glued keel parts together. Sanded the other parts at an angle, as shown on the photo. How many to sand are wery easy to see. The parts has marks, made by the laser. Then keel and sanded parts are glued together. Regards, Antanas
  7. My next project is the Chaloupe Armee en Guerre or Longboat Armed for War. This will be a scratch-built model at a scale of 1:36, from the plans available here: http://www.ancre.fr/vaisso25.htm. I ordered my copy of the monograph and plans direct from ANCRE and they came speedily and at a very reasonable rate of postage. This is the first publication from ANCRE that I have seen, and I must say I'm impressed. The six sheets of plans are drawn beautifully and the accompanying booklet, which describes the boat and the construction process, is very well laid out. There are many illustrations of the construction process, as well as detail photos of a 1:18 version of the same boat. I should note that the original text was in French and has been translated into English by David H Roberts, who has done an excellent job. Whilst finishing my Agamemnon (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1115-hms-agamemnon-by-decoyman-caldercraft/) I have been collecting pieces of wood I thought might be useful when scratch-building. I discovered The Toolpost (http://www.toolpost.co.uk), a treasure trove of woodworking equipment, in Didcot, about 15 minutes drive from where I live. They have a good selection of hardwoods and fruitwoods, mostly in turning blanks, as well as a selection of pieces of boxwood of varying sizes. They were also happy to cut every piece I bought into 1" slices on their bandsaw. This means I can now machine them to exact dimensions on my Byrnes table saw, which is a pleasure to use! I haven't finally decided which woods to use where, but I'm starting with apple for the keelson and ribs and will probably use cherry for the planking. I acquired a box full of odd pieces of wood, including a large amount of ebony, from eBay for a very reasonable sum: I might try turning one of the ebony pieces to make the large bow-mounted cannon. The picture above shows (from the top) ebony, apple, box and cherry. Before I could get going on the good stuff I needed to make a mould, over which the basic hull will be constructed. The instructions say to make this from 5 mm ply, which actually measures nearer to 4.5 mm thick. Unfortunately French plywood is not available in England; here we have 3 mm and 6 mm, which isn't much use. In fact the nearest thing I could find was 4 mm MDF, available on the internet in packets of ten 400 x 300 mm sheets at a reasonable price. This is still not thick enough. The mould is made from layers cut to the shape of the waterlines, if the layers are too thin then the whole boat will end up compressed vertically. My solution was to interleave the MDF with layers of 0.5 mm cherry veneer, which I happened to have around, so that each layer was 4.5 mm in total. There were some benefits to this method: I could glue photocopies of the plans to each piece of veneer and then cut out each layer accurately using a scalpel. Once that was done I coloured the edges with a black permanent marker. This was so when I sanded the mould to its finished profile I knew that when I reached the black I was nearly there. The next step was to glue the veneers to the MDF and remove the photocopies. I left them to dry overnight, interleaved with cling film and weighted down, and then cut each MDF layer out with a fret saw, slightly larger than the veneer stuck to the top. Each layer was drilled on the centreline at stations 5F and 5A and then stacked up and glued in order with dowels in the holes to provide alignment. I used dowels instead of the drill bits because I could sand the dowels along with the MDF. There was a lot of arm-aching sanding to bring the mould to its final form. I used a Surform for quick removal and then coarse sandpaper on a block for accuracy. The end result was pretty accurate but not perfect. To check the profiles while sanding I glued copies of the frame profiles to 1.2 mm card, as well as the keel. I used these to check I was getting the shape right, but I also cut them so they would slot together. Once the mould fitted all the card frames and the keel I was just about done! In the last of the photos above you can see marking out for the recesses to take the keelson and the knee of the stern. To ensure the keelson recess was the right size I made a start on this piece. It's cut from a piece of 2.3 x 6 mm apple on the table saw, which I also used to cut the rebates for the frames. It curves up towards the stern so I soaked it in hot water for a while, then taped it to the mould. Once the keelson had the correct profile I used it to adjust the recess in the mould. The last thing to finish the mould were two coats of varnish and a polish. The purpose of this is to protect the markings showing the frames and the wales and to try to stop the glue sticking the frames to the mould. We'll see how we get on with this in due course. In the meantime the next task is to bend the frames round the mould. More soon! Rob
  8. I once heard a definition of a boat as anything that can be hoisted up onto a ship !!? (leads to the question of how do you first define "ship" ?). Then there's also the penchant of Navy submariners (and the rest of the Navy for the most part) calling a submarine a "boat". "Boomers" or SSBN's are pretty BIG in my opinion. Really don't think they are "boats". Just me. I think the German, the British and perhaps the French submariners do that as well. When is a ship NOT a boat? I served onboard the USS Iowa BB61 '85-'86, Length of waterline: 880 feet. About 45,000 ton displacement IIRC. Pretty doggone big! Take it from me. Only the Carriers and Amphibious Assault ships and the like were bigger. I surely don't think of the USS Iowa as a "boat". But my wife will call large ships "boats". (well, actually she uses the terms interchangeably) I try to get her to not call something like the Santísima Trinidad, Victory, or a French frigate like the Hermione) a "boat" - I think it's bordering on disrespectful. I can't stand to hear it! She says "Well, tell me the difference". I just gave a blank look because I had no answer. On the other hand, would one call a metropolitan city cruise ship of 250' accommodating 1300 passengers a "boat"? Or for that matter, a large ferry? I wouldn't. (well, a ferry maybe - but OTOH I've been on some fairly large ferrys ). There again that's just me.
  9. Hello friends, under the Chrismas tree I found her! Possible to built her with clinkerd panking! Later more about these traditional Pommeranian and Prussian shallow water fishing barges. Here the very first pictures from the freshly opened box:
  10. Dear friends... after the complete proof that girls are evel (look here -> http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4277-uncompletebale-small-boat-after-paris-by-small-stuff-gk-modellbau-no-2002-scale-164-2nd-wooden-build-smal/?p=132074)- I reboot the trial to finish a now boat. It will be again a Kammerlander model kit PoF wit the GK-Kit No. 2006. It can be built in scales from 1:35 up to 1:50 and I decided to built her in 1/48 to make the "useable" together with/on later builded ships. Measurements are L. 93 mm - W.: 3,2 cm - H.: 18 mm. So... I try to look on the bright side of life! Pictures following during the next hours, days or weeks...

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