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  1. One more new small project. My thanks to Cap'n'Bob for support. Best Regards! Igor.
  2. I wanted to work on skills for a square rigged SIB, which I think is more of a challenge than fore & aft rigged. The story of the Jeroboam in Moby Dick was one I liked, with weird ship qurantines and doomy prophecies. I also like building fictional ships in bottles; as if i've captured part of the mystery. I found no illustration of the actual fictional Jeroboam, so I looked for Nantucket or New England Whaling ships from the first half pf the 19 the century. This painting by Salvatore Colacicco really caught my eye, and I used it as my muse! I especially liked how only the lower topsails were unfurled - would make it easier for my job! For anyone reading, I need to break the news to you now, that the ship in the bottle (as usual) did NOT come out a crisp and neat as I (always) had hoped. Ans If you dont like wonky SIB, then read no further, but please enjoy S Colacicco's beautiful oil painting!! 🤔 ----------- I picked a bottle of Tullamore Dew for its broad, square shape; it seemed a good fit! sagital cuts for better shapping of the hull Used a table top jig saw to cut athwart for the gun ports. The three holed are for the mast axles ( to be painted over later). Love the mini belt sander - a gift from big bother Harry! My new thing: A longitudinal trench in which the folded masts lay. Primed, and with three brass masts, of pleasing proportion. They fold back nicely. For me the biggest challenge with square rigged SIBs, is how to have the yards turn for the folding. I still havent figured it out completely, but am experimenting with tiny beads, lashed to the back of the masts. With bead caps at the top and a coat of paint. Folding back well with the bare rigging. Kind of where she begins to fall apart. I need to find new sail material - this satin frays and shrinks way too much. The furled upper topsails and top gallant sails did not stay neatly furled. For the standing rigging I used organic thread which takes CA better. For the running rigging I used nylon - not a bad idea, but I didnt plan out the running rigging as well as I will next time! Until the sails were up, it was hard to predict which would need to be tugged pulled aft or fore. Cord end caps were added onto the deck for pass-throughs for all the runningn rigging. It got to be quite a traffic jam of line. At first I labekled the 30 or so lines with taped paper and number - but it didnt work well. Then I tried color coding, eg yellow- green - yellow. Cute idea, but needs to be done better. Also, need fewer lines next time. A simple base in the bottle - not a stand and no silicone sea. She launches quite gracefully! Oh Brother! Fast forward, and afterabout 3 hours later of glueing, and snipping, and snapping, and pulling.... All in all, I learned a lot, and she looks well enough to the casual observer, but I still wished she came out a bit closer to perfection.. Hmmm... Maybe its like the whale the Pequod was chasing? Thanks for viewing!
  3. Part I: RETURN TO THE SHOP I took off about a year in between Ship in Bottle projects. I completed the restoration on my Dad's Santa Maria model, and was able to upgrade the workshop a bit. Mostly, I needed to take a break, and rebalance my free time. Over a year ago, I promised a nurse colleague named Caroline that I would make her a ship in a bottle. This was hanging over my head during my hiatus, so I was happy to return with this gift project for her. I found a smart looking schooner yacht named Caroline. She's a Malabar IV model. And I believe she is still for sale!! I always start with the hope of achieving crisp lines and smooth sails. I'm kidding my self, but that's my goal. I was concerned that over the past 12 months or so, I would have forgotten many of the tips that learned over my first dozen or so SIBs. That may be so, but in return I also brought a fresh perspective, and the gumption to try new things. For this project I returned to solid hull blank - not saggital cuts. I got some nice wood scraps from a mill nearby - I think its cherry but I dont know for sure. Certainly an upgrade form the bass wood I had been using. For my birthday last year, eldest brother bought me a mini belt sander, which came in super handy for the shaping of the hull. Upgrade #2! In the past I fashioned mast hinges out of beading cord ends. This time I tried something new: drill across the beam, and insert an axle attached to the mast. The idea was that the two masts would fold aft, all the way down, for launch into the bottle. This would require a channel aft of each mast in which they would lie (with their sails and rigging) during insertion. Here's one of the axles being drilled to hold the mast And here is a still of the brass rod 1.19mm sitting in the wooden axle. Here i'm testing the main mast as it folds down IMG_4281.MOV And here are both masts, folding aft into the channel as I had hoped IMG_4286.MOV So far so good! Next: The Calm Before the Storm
  4. I am choosing this as a gift for my friend, Brynn, who is from Alaska. Couldn't find too many ships named Brynn, and i kind of like what is going on with this particular ship. Apparently, a sloop-of-war is not a sloop that I think of in the civilian or recreational sense (eg a single gaff-masted cutter); rather a sloop-of-war I believe could be any unrated (ie under 20 guns?) two- or three-masted ship. The two-masted sloops-of-war were typically configured often as either main-mizzen-ketch or fore-main-snauw. This USS Alaska is a three-masted square-rigged ship, was the first of four US Navy ships named after the territory / state, and was launched in 1868. As far as pictures, i found these two dreary ones, and i suspect that they only hint at the splendor she would carry when at full sail: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Alaska_(1868) https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/NH-63000/NH-63526.html If anyone can refer me to any other photos or pictures of any kind, then i would be grateful. Otherwise, i will do what SIB builders do, which is to blend two shots reverence with one shot imagination. (Fair warning - if someone produces authentic picture with hideous colors, or all gray, then i might balk and choose my own). With three masts, four yards each, gaffs on each mast, and a bunch of lifeboats, this will be fun! Will probably look for a thinner sail material than i had with the Annie. Thanks for reading!
  5. Good morning everyone. After few years I finally got my first ship kit - received still warm box yesterday morning . For some reason I expected something more... or bigger... or maybe just a box filled with some more stuff... but when I started to look closely at all parts included, the scale of this ship has hit me like a tiny, micro bag of potatoes. My "previous small scale modelling" seems totally irrelevant now, seems like smallest bits I have painted before are of average size of Hannah bits.... First thoughts and impressions are the most positive. Plywood is of good quality, details on metal parts are amazing, there was even a strip of 180 grade sand paper included . However, the bottle included in the kit is not the clearest one I have ever seen (hope a good wash will make it better) and brass parts will require a little attention. Some have marks, some have fingerprints, but I will try and clean it all up - and if that's not possible, I'll just try and repaint them. I aim to use some build logs from here, as well as one @ Tigersbay blog as help. With all that information it seems easy, well - seemed easy till I have seen the parts, but I hope to finish it in maybe few weeks time. Will try and include some pictures of the build, just so I can share my progress and maybe some future builders of same kit will find it helpful . My modelling background stretches in time for more than 20 years now (how quickly that passed....), I started as a kid when my mum bought me first plastic aircraft kit - I remember it was Jak 1M . Since then I made planes, tanks, cars, railway, more planes, some figures like Mantic and Warhammer, RC planes made of balsa (electric and nitro powered), so I hope that it will be enough to start with my little girl. To compare scale of painted bits, here is a photo of Warhammer figures I painted few years ago. The pic was taken just now, so they faded a little bit. Height is about 4cm. And to fulfil MSW's tradition , two unboxing pics Now I will have to ride to my lms to get some glue - I can't find bottle of aliphatic anywhere, also few small drill bits might come handy. Then I plan to ride to seaside for few hours and start to build this little beauty later today. All the best. Tom
  6. Hi everyones! I had a break in the shipbuilding for more than 3 months. Now, before I go back to my current projects, I decided to do another short mini-project for restoring of my skills. So, I begin as usual with building of the hull. Richard Lawler Schooner America Best Regards! Igor.
  7. ATLANTIC history Commissioned by New York Yacht Club member Wilson Marshall, Atlantic was launched in 1903. She was designed by William Gardner, one of America's foremost designers of large yachts. From the moment Atlantic went to sea, it was clear that she was an exceptionally fast and beautiful schooner. When a yacht in 1903 hits twenty knots during her sea trials, she is a promising yacht, but even then nobody could imagine two years later this yacht would set a record that would stand unmatched for almost a century. Nevertheless, whilst Wilson Marshall wanted Atlantic to be the fastest schooner on the water, he felt there was no reason to compromise on comfort. Unlike contemporary racing schooners, Atlantic was equipped with every imaginable luxury. Fitted out with the finest mahogany panelling, she had two steam driven generators to power electric lights, refrigerators and a large galley. On deck her halyard winches and primary sheet winches were also steam driven. She had two double and three single staterooms, a lobby, a large full beam saloon, a dining room, a chart & gunroom, three large bathrooms and in the deckhouse there was a comfortable observation room. She had retractable chimneys, so while under sail the below deck steam heating, lighting and refrigeration systems could keep running. Atlantic's fo'c'sle accommodated her thirty-nine strong crew and officers, who would live aboard throughout the year. During her first season Atlantic proved fast, winning both the Brenton Reef and the Cape May Cup hands down, but it was only in 1905 she made the headlines by winning the Kaiser's Cup, a Transatlantic race from Sandy Hook to the Lizard. Referred to as "The last Great race of Princes" the entries for this race included all the yachts that the rich and powerful from Britain and America could send to sea. The legendary Captain Charlie Barr, who had already successfully defended the America's Cup three times, was hired to skipper Atlantic. Charlie Barr's determination to win was as legendary as his skills for driving the largest of yachts to the very limit. And win, he did, sailing 3006 miles in 12 days, 4 hours, 1 minute and 19 seconds. Atlantic's 24-hour record was 341 miles, an average speed of 14,1 knots. Uncountable attempts were made to break this record but it would hold firm until 1998, the longest standing speed record in the history of yachting. Atlantic's story continued for another seventy-seven years with ownership passing through the likes of Cornelius van der Bilt and Gerald Lambert. She was used as a mother ship for other racing yachts like Vanity, for America's Cup defenders and the J-Class Yankee on her voyage to England. Her guest book included the rich and famous of the world. Simply put, she is the most famous and beloved racing schooner of all time. Although after World War II Atlantic would never sail again, she refused to give up her existence. Somehow she was saved from the scrap yard on three different occasions, broke loose from her moorings, to sail back to sea without a man aboard and ended up used as a houseboat, a restaurant and a floating dock at a fuel station. Finally on 30th of January 1982, she was broken up at Newport News Boat Harbor, Virginia. The Schooner Atlantic's General Specifications Design William Gardner Year Originally Built 1903 Length on Deck 185 Feet 56.43 Meters Waterline Length 135 Feet 41.18 Meters Beam 29 Feet 8.85 Meters Draught 16½ Feet 4.9 Meters Displacement 298 Tons 303 Tonnes Sail Area to Windward 18,500 Feet² 1,750 M² This information from the site www.schooner-atlantic.com So, I decided to construct model of this surprising schooner in a bottle.
  8. Hi to all! One more of my small and short projects. You can read the story of this boat HERE So, first, I made the basis of the boat's hull.
  9. I hope I am in the right department here. If I am moved by administration please advise me and my apologies in advance. I have dabbled with SIB for some time. I make one every ten years on average. This is supposed to be HMS Beagle. I do not work from drawings. ( should do ) All is eyesighted and let's say...artists impression? I have seen some of the most exquisite models built by guys on this forum which leave me very humbled. They are just brilliant with all their tiny detail. I love ships but am a bit of a bluffer. I put in what I think looks good and ignore scale as it is too much for me. It is supposed to carry seven boats I read. This, on this scale will be too overpowered. I have tried my best. I am a non nautical but love what I see in ships . I have the boat hanging over the stern on Daviits which should be a give away for HMS Beagle. Plus all the other boats on board for the expedition. When I see what some modellers have achieved I should be ashamed as I have not applied myself fully to it. Anyway, here are my results so far. The main thing here is.....FUN! and I get plenty of it. Your ships though my brothers are an inspiration to me. We cannot hope to build anything without this. I have an attraction to Dimple bottles of the smaller variety. They have their own stand. Trouble is I get quite Ill for five days having downed a bottle in one evening! Maybe I WAS a sailor in my past life? Ha ha. I do know though that us modellers have a vivid imagination of the past and that's why we do what we do. Here's the pics. " Weigh Anchor and set sail me boys" Or have I got it the wrong way around? Said I was bluffer!!! In hindsight...I Christen this ship..." HMS Bluffer ". Pete
  10. Preussen Clipper - Ship in Bottle - 1:857 scale Background For about six or seven years I have wanted to get into modelling ships in bottles. The last few years I have been tied up with miniature wargaming, editing a Naval Wargaming journal, and writing for another journal. There is a season for everything in life and the latter chapter needed to end. For the last 7 months I conducted extensive research into the hobby and read quit a few books on modelling ships, reviewed a few books in my current library, and read articles on the Internet. Books reviewed or purchased are; Ship models in miniature – Donald McNarry How to make a clipper ship model – E.A. McCann The ship model builder assistant – Charles G. Davis The Nitrate Clippers – Basil Lubbock – courtesy of ‘Davyboy’ from MSW Ships in bottles – Guy DeMarco How to make a ship in a bottle – Clive Monk Ships in miniature (a new manual for model makers) - Lloyd McCaffery Sailing ship rigs and rigging – Harold A. Underhill Ships-In-Bottles: A Step-By-Step Guide to a Venerable Nautical Craft Paperback - Don Hubbard Internet Articles read are; Preussen German 5 masted full-rigged ship 25’=1” – Robert A. Wilson The Five Masters – Nev Wade Recommended tools and equipment for scale modeling – Mike Ashey The Esmerelda build on MSW - Dave Fellingham BonHomme Richard as a ship in a light bulb model – John Fox III Heather Gabriel Rogers – Facebook Page Three masted ship in bottle – Michel Bardet Numerous other sites and activities concerning ships in bottles The Build What I have come to realize is everyone is different when it comes to modelling ships in bottles. There are 3 basic techniques however there are different styles of building and displaying ship models in bottles. My motto for my build is; “Go big or go home.” I have always wanted to model the Preussen in a bottle and to display the vessel in a carved wooden sea with painted waves and wake. The clipper is a sailing machine and the German Preussen is no exception. She is built for speed and everything about her is designed to haul cargo. The biggest issue I debated over with her initially was how much detail was I willing to model and … at a scale of 1:857 this was going to get dicey in a big way! Specifications Seas will be carved from Douglas Fir Hull will be carved from Western Red Cedar Masts, & bow sprit from aluminum, brass and steel Yards and spars from cherry wood veneer laminated and turned All running rigging, rat lines etc. from fly tying thread Sails from expensive paper hand drawn pen and ink Bottle is to be a 1.5 Liter wine bottle for display One of the biggest errors I see, and please this is my own opinion is … some modellers “get stuck on too much detail.” At a scale of 1:857 how much detail is really necessary to get onto a model to get it believable? I looked at a lot of pictures of the Preussen on the internet whether by; B & W photos, paintings, and various models of her. It’s all about perspective and what the eye sees. The real ship has 1260 blocks and 248 rigging screws so there was no way on this earth I am going even to try to represent the aforementioned. I’ll put some detail into it where appropriate and skip the rest. A bottle stand I knew I needed to build myself a bottle stand so my bottle wouldn’t roll off of my work bench. I built the following stand from some left over balsa wood and made it to fit 2 common sizes of bottles for now. Bottle in Position, note elastic band to secure it Some wood to carve, Western Red Cedar on top, Douglas Fir flooring plank on the bottom My home made stand to mount the hull on to work and keep all the running rigging from tangling up. A close up In my next post I talk about the plans, cutting the wood up and the carving details … Jeff
  11. Hey, everybody! More than a year ago I started another project. Today it is almost finished, but I will tell you more about the construction process. Best Regards! Igor.
  12. I started this build on www.bottledshipbuilder.com. It fits with the mission of that site but the idea of this build is one I've had for a long time and it began with MSW members in mind so I thought I'd bring it over. To give a little history and the idea of what this build is, it started with a pet peave of mine. Those that have seen me on the forum have probably seen that I have been critical of ship in bottle kit's out there. I have seen a lot of MSW members and members of my local club take interest in ships in bottles then try a kit and end up never wanting to build ships in bottles again. As many of you also know ships in bottles is something I'm passionate about. Probably overly so. I'm not sure I can explain that passion. For me it's something magical. I get a ship into a bottle and I stand back and I'm still amazed that I was able to do it. I know the process but it still amazes me. The other part of that passion is those that helped me get to where I'm at. I feel like I was very lucky I got into ship in bottle building when I did. I found these small groups with cheerful members willing to share their ideas and I learned very quickly. I owe a lot to the members of the Ship in Bottle Association of America. Unfortunately SIBAA closed a couple years ago and www.bottledshipbuilder.com and the Facebook ship in bottle builder group what's left of the organization. Much like ship modeling in general ship in bottle building is a dying art. In an effort to keep it alive and pass on the knowledge that was given to me I like to share ship in bottle building methods and knowledge. So it bugs me a bit when a company puts out a model that is overly difficult and turns people off to building ships in bottles. In my personal opinion there is currently no kit on the market that gives what members of MSW would look for in a ship in bottle kit. The closest one is Amati's but I think they made their ship to tight of a fit which has given a lot of beginning ship in bottle builders trouble. Every other kit is to kiddish to be taken seriously by members of MSW. I had thought for a long time about making my own kit. I've explored that process and found a lot of complications to it. Besides that for a patience bottle builder I'm not very patient. I have a hard time measuring and writing all the details so I decided on a different approach. In an effort to give this information as freely as it was given to me I am posting a how to build log. It will detail all the steps for a simple ship in bottle build. The idea being if I were to make a ship in bottle kit for beginners this is what it would look like. Since I'm not detailing every measurement this also acts as a guide to scratch building. If you can build this ship you can use the same techniques to build others. Also this gives builders the ability to size it up or down as needed. I want this to be a great starting place for those want to try ship in bottle building and I'm hopeful I can present it in such a way that will share the magic of it and have builders wanting to try more.
  13. Hello All, After the last SIB built wihtout any running lines, I really began to miss the the hinges and the rigging. This next build will be a Bat Mitzva gift for my niece Lila (twin to Max - he of the FORTNITE Pirate Ship), and will the last in this particular series of gifts! I found a gulet called the Princess Lila, a luxury yacht, available for charter in Turkey and Croatia. A gulet is a traditional design of a two-masted or three-masted wooden sailing vessel from the southwestern coast of Turkey. I believe that this is a ketch. I also saw the Gulet Queen Lila, but the family here liked the looks of the Princess better. As is typical for SIB building, I pick the inspiration (or recipient), then the ship, and then the bottle to match. I really like this old Kessler's whisky bottle, with the fancified diamond glasswork! I typically remove the back label, but try to leave on the front and any other labels to demonstrate the bottle's heritage or provenance. That was my plan here. The Boss, well, she did not approve of me keeping on any such ratty things for our niece, and admonished me thusly, "She's a 13-year old girl, not a 50-year old man! Take off all the labels. And make sure that thing is crystal clear!" She's right, of course. Although I made saggitical slices for the USS Alaska, that was really roughshod. This time I planned them out a bit more properly. Still a bit rushed but not too bad for this impatient SIB maker. These saggital cuts are what are used in the italian and japanese kits, the latter being my favorite. The american kits just hull blanks for whittling and sanding. I had been doing the blanks, but I think after this Gulet, I have been converted to the slices. It allows for a more finessed hull shape during the sanding phase. Next: Hull and deck fabrication
  14. Starting a new build The Golden Swan based om the 1588 English Galleon as pictured in Wolfram Zu Mondfeld book "Historic Ship Models" The hull is carved from sourwood. Usually I use Holly but wanted to try a different wood. The deck will be spit from the hull so the ship will be in two pieces so it can be placed in the bottle when done. I am building in between sessions with my Cutty Sark that I am also building.
  15. I needed a few weeks to get clean from my addiction to build logs for MSW. But now its time to feed the monkey on my back.. I'm going to make another gift - this time for my nephew Max, also for his Bar Mitzvah. Like many boys his age, Fortnite is a way of life. (If any of you dont know what Fortnite is, then I would surmise that you probably dont have a 9-19 year old human boy in your your life's orbit.) I am choosing the Fortnite Pirate Ship for him. This Ship is rather boxy, with lots of straight lines, and basically no rigging except for shrouds ratlines. Dont ask me how it is sailed, or even how anyone gets up to the crow's nest: It's a computer game ship, and Fortnite knows best! Since it is animated and fictional, it is liberated from certain restraints of physics and reality. This can be a good thing for the SIB builder: fewer rigging lines to tangle, and simpler sails (Yay!!). But it can also get a little fanciful and tricky: I mean, look at the railing, and all the detail on the hull; and the octopus on the bow! This japanes whiskey bottle is just boxy enough!! The plans and hull blank from bass wood. Will add the top of the sterncastle later on!
  16. Hello to all! Two weeks ago I started another small project in a bottle. This time it is a model of the pilot cutter Jolie Brise. This boat I like for a long time and now, finally, I "matured" for its construction. More or less suitable drawings of this boat, I never found. Found only the theoretical drawing of the hull and the general scheme of the sails. Also I found in the network a number of photos. Well, and a suitable bottle was found. A little of the history about Jolie Brise - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jolie_Brise
  17. The plans for building this boat are in two issues of "Scale Wood-Craft", Spring and Summer 1986.(1a) Bottle and preparation I chose a bottle that is rectangular because I wanted a flat bottom and not much height. I am not going to add a putty "sea" for this ship. The bottle is 750ml, with "Holland Liquor Bottle" on the end. The bottle is 1 1/4" high and end to end 9" long. The opening is 7/8". The one in the plan is ¾". I cut the threaded part of the bottle at the end off because it's ugly and without the threads it looks like an old bottle. In some cases cutting it off also increases the opening ID. I used a diamond cut off wheel, 7/8" dia. I found a picture on line of a boat in a harbor at Cape Porpoise, Maine (7) that is just north of Kennebunkport. I then adjusted the size to fit part of it in the bottle for a background and sea. A Turks Head knot was added to the neck. Hull The ship is 5" long. I used a piece of white oak for the hull. The hull is spilt in order to fit it through the neck of the bottle. I cut the hull to size and once I had the two halves roughly shaped (1c) I drilled holes on one side for the dowels to hold the halves together. I drilled 3 holes but used two because it was too tight with three. The holes for the second half were found by painting the holes on the drilled side and mating the halves together to find the location for the other side (3). Once I shaped the hull (2) I added a rear rub rail and painted it white (4). I started cutting out the walls of the rear open cabin area but didn't like the way it came out so I added a bass wood strip to cover it. I then cut the deck piece for the bottom and painted the edge blue for the water line (6). I included a picture of the 30" Midwest model of the Boothbay Lobster boat (1b). I wanted to match the color scheme from this model. I covered the deck with mahogany veneer strips (5) that I had left over from a solid hull model of the Bluenose. I added the veneer so that the veneer hides the split line. You will notice that I added the rub rail along the sheer line. This is clear wood veneer, also left over from the Bluenose build. Using square 1/32 stock I outlined the inside edge of the veneer (called the coaming I believe). If I were to do this over again I would lower the height of the stock. {C} With the hull complete, I placed it in the bottle for location (10 & 11). Now that the ship is located I will piece together the bottom sea buy taking pieces of the blue sea in the photo (8). I will paint a reflection of the lobster boat in the water on the new piece that I will add (9). I added mahogany veneer to the lower deck, clear veneer strips on the hull where the traps are lifted, and varnished all wood surfaces.{C} Cabin The 3 lower cabin pieces are cut to size, portholes drilled and glued together as one piece (12). The plans have each piece going through the bottle separately but he used a 3/4" dia. bottle and mine is 7/8". I test fit the assembly through the bottle neck. The rear part of the cabin bends a bit because of the tight fit. The aft bulkhead for the cabin will go in after the 3 cabin pieces. The 3 upper window pieces I did the same thing. After painting I added acetate windows to the inside of the windows. The top roof piece is too wide for the bottles so I split it on the starboard edge, gluing a piece of paper to the back for a hinge (13) Sail: I plan to add a "sail" to the back of the boat. I saw this on bigger models. It's used to prevent rolling and steadies the boat when it's sitting into the wind. Working from a picture I made a sail using fine cloth and wood dowels (14). I found a plastic tube piece that the dowel mast fit into and glued it to the corner of the aft port side of the lower deck. I had to make sure that the total height included the tube and floor so it would go in the bottle. A wire loop was added to the aft deck for the line. Other parts (14 - 17) I made the engine cover from balsa with a hole to accept the wood dowel exhaust stack. An oversized hole was added to the roof for the stack. The antenna is wire with a hollow tube at the bottom end. A hole was drilled in the roof. The light on the roof was a buoy with the tip filed off. I added veneer to the edges of the two roofs. The railings were made from mahogany strips. In retrospect I made the railing too thick and high. I added a veneer hatch to the top roof. The lobster tank was made out of paper. The gear for lifting the pots was wire. The chocks (?) on the forward deck were wire bent to shape and filed flat on the bottom. Lobster traps and lobsters are etched brass sheets I bought. They are H.O. scale. It also came with the cast buoys. Because this is a square instead of round diameter bottle, I had to keep in mind that the antenna and mast must fit with less headroom. Also the engine exhaust stack since it goes in through a hole in the roof. When I went to put the exhaust in it almost didn't go. I had to round the end of the stack to get it in. Assembly in the bottle First I put in the two hull halves with glue on one side. Using two rods, I squeeze the two halves together in the bottle. I then added glue to the bottom of the bottle and put the hull in place. The lower cabin is next, then the cabin rear bulkhead. Then the upper window assembly was added. I use a long pair of tweezers to place the parts in place. Next is the hinged cabin roof with the rails, light, and buoy attached. Then the antenna was added. Next is the engine box against the rear cabin bulkhead. I put the trap raising "hook" (called a gallows and snatch block) in and then tried to add the support brace that attaches to the hook and the deck. I could not get this in position right so I took it and the hook out and wired and glued the brace to the hook and put it in as one piece. I put a trap on the hook and ran the thread around the "wheel pulley that is used to pull up the trap. I then added the sail. Once in I threaded the line through the eyelet I made on the rear deck. I added the tank, then the traps with the buoys attached. The man and lobsters I added last.
  18. So, I was about to spend a couple hours launching the USS Alaska, when Wifey reminded me that I promised to make my nephew a SIB for his Bar Mitzvah Birthday - arriving in 8 days. I had been keeping my eye on some pirate ships, and decided to go with the fabled Flying Dutchman. I love the the sterncastle, and the ridiculous, ghoulish bow. I had to get crackin'. I chose a classic whickey bottle. But with a 1.65cm aperture, getting the ship in will be 'toight! Hull blank, then sanded and cut down. Unfortunately, due to the bottle's narrow neck and the fact that I will have the three masts fold aft, it will be hard to build up a proper sterncastle. (For future similar SIB, i will build up the sterncastle's bulwarks only, but have decks remain at the level of the lowest deck). I like the brass effect, but i built up the forecastle too much, diminishing the classic profile. Oh well. a good start for one night. still tons of work to do in a short time. Next: Masts, Yards, and Rigging. 7 Days left...
  19. This will be my first Build Log, and 6th scratch ship in a bottle. This will be a present for a friend named Annie. She will appreciate the obvious choice of ship name. One of the best things about building scratch ships in bottles, is that you can choose pretty much any ship, based upon the occasion, recipient, bottle shape, or whatever your mood may be. I like choosing less well known ships, perhaps from obscure sources or stories or tales. I was happy to find a perky little schooner named Annie from New York, complete with a fine little backstory. I found a few pictures from which to work.
  20. Hi to all! So, one more of my projects here ... But at first, we come back at some time ago. Several years ago I built a boat in the 72-m-wide while staying on vacation. By the way, it is very convenient - you have the small kit, minimum of tools and you not lose your time on vacation. This boat was on the shelf of my bookcase since. About a year ago I had got the empty bottle of Japanese whiskey with a fairly wide neck (25 mm). And this boat could be held a the throat of this bottle . But nothing were occurred to anything but banal theme: rearmament boat spars, rigging and sails, and the replacing it all in a bottle. In general, anything interesting either in technical or in artistic terms And I continued to explore possible options for upgrade the boat…
  21. It's about time I start a log on this one since it's moving right a long. This build is another commission for a pirate rein-actor. The story of his crew is that they found the ship beached and got it back to sea worthy and made it their own pirate vessel. Basically he told me he wanted a sixth rate 20 gun frigate from around 1710. He also sent me a few photos of what he would like the ship to look like.
  22. Hi All A number of years ago, I bought the first copy of a part works magazine on building a 1/96 HMS Victory. The reasons were, it was only £1.99 (starter price) and it had some nice colour pictures for reference, some nice pieces of thin plywood (always hard to find in the UK) to be used as bulkheads. It also had a gun kit comprising barrel, carriage (in 3 pieces), trucks, capsquares, a length of brass rod for axles and some small brass nails to hold the capsquares on with. This kit has been sculling around in the bottom of my toolbox for a while now, so I thought I’d have a bash at a bit of a diorama in a bottle as a side project. This was just meant as a general ‘illustration’ of a gun station, no particular ship in mind, and I fully realise that some parts are not to scale or particularly accurate. A bit of fun really. I used oak strip from www.stripwood.co.uk for the deck and hull, and the Salt Box. The Sponge Tub was made from 1mm wide strip cut from a piece of veneer (not sure what wood), coloured black on one side then stained Light Oak. Similarly the Match Tub, although this was easier as it has a solid wood former under the strips. The Handspikes were carved from dowel and stained. The Rammer was bamboo stick thinned down with the Rammer part turned and stained, similarly for the Sponge, however the head was painted white to simulate fleece. The Powder Scoop was bamboo stick with the scoop fashioned from pieces of styrene tubing and then painted; the Worm was bamboo with a coiled bit of wire painted black. I turned the Cartridge Case from a bit of Elm, as I believe the originals were. The piece of Grating was made from some mahogany strip and some white wood strip, the cannonballs were self coloured air drying modelling clay, the rack was a bit of mahogany strip. As to the gun itself, the carriage took a bit of rework to get the parts to fit and then be shaped so that it looked ok. The supplied trucks were enameled metal, so I used them to get dimensions, and used these to turn some new trucks from Elm, as this was used in the real thing. Brass wire painted black was used to make the ringbolts on the gun carriage and for the lashing points on the hull. I carved the blocks from a length of mahogany strip, used some thin brass wire to strop them and used thin thread for the rope. Once in place I soaked the thread with dilute PVA glue to stiffen them in place. I showed the tackle loosened on the diorama. The breeching rope was a thicker bit of thread; it was thick enough so that I could actually whip the eye (with a spot of glue just to make sure) after passing through the ringbolts. The small brass nails supplied to put the capsquares on were far too big so were replaced with smaller ones. The Capsquares were actually too big for the trunnions, (the barrel could fall out), so I shimmed them with some thin walled brass tube. All painted black. The bottle is a small spirit bottle, probably quarter size, about 6 inches long overall. The inside is about 3 inches long, with a top to bottom taper that caused a bit of fettling to get the deck to fit. It then took a bit of trial and error to get the deck fixed in position. CA didn’t want to know, I tried UV cured glue, but that was curing too quickly in the bright daylight (it does happen in the UK sometimes) so I used a couple of bits of Milliput in the end – not the prettiest solution – I would rethink this bit if I ever try something like this again. The stand is a piece of MDF covered in Oak Veneer, and the bottle supports are Oak strip. Turks Head knot to finish off. A work colleague suggested I name the pieces, so from left to right: Salt Box - wooden box with leather hinges to hold a couple of cartridges - the salt soaked up any moisture Cartridge container - lidded wooden container used to carry the cartridges up from the magazine - usually by the ships boys, the Powder Monkeys Handspikes - resting against the cannon - substantial shaped levers used to train the gun carriage around Sponge Tub - filled with water - used to sponge out the barrel after a shot to make sure no burning debris before putting in the next cartridge Match Tub - conical, half filled with water. A fire precaution on ships. The burning ends of the match were fed over the top. If knocked over the water put out the match. The match was used if the flintlock on the gun failed. Rammer, Sponge, Worm and Powder Scoop Happy Modelling All the Best Alan Trial fit with a pen for scale The Bad Guy's View The layout And again All Done
  23. Well I'm starting a new build log. I know I have a Syren I haven't touched, and a Satisfaction that needs a complete redo. Well they're going to have to wait. I've come to a couple conclusions recently that have lead me to decide on the build and the method for the build. Point one my time is limited. I got a lot of life going on so I've decided it's about time I build a ship for myself. I've always had an interest for the QAR and that interest was sparked again by this guy Queen Anne's Revenge by Shipmodel. If you haven't seen his log check it out Dan's doing some great work. In any case I'm going to build a ship I have some interest in because this time I'm not selling it to Pirates or trading it to Spanish Ladies for bonsai. (If you want to know what that means check out my Santa Maria and Mercury build links in my signature.) This time I'm keeping it. Second point. I was inspired by DFellingham's build the Esmeralda (also a great log) to build a the long boat of the Mercury out of paper using a wood plug. It came out nicely. Since then I have been contemplating the idea of building a full ship using this method. Now I'm going to put this idea into action. This will be only the second time I've tried this so if it totally fails the first few times stick with me. I've had two builds now that flopped on me after the first few posts and I must say it's embarrassing. Lucky for me your all good sports. Also to add to the time constraints point this build has a specific dead line. I found that I have a break between my school semesters from Nov 24th to December 9th. So while I have more time not having to do home work I get to build. Also since I have such a tight deadline I can't worry about to many details so this build is going to me small.... This is the plug I'm going to use. The ship will actually be made of paper stained with wood stain and cut into little tiny strips. The plug is covered in wax and the paper stips glued on like planks. After the glue dries the ship comes off the plug. The tricky part will be adding the masts, spars, rigging and sails. Will I try ratlines this time? ......most likely.
  24. This is my first foray into scratch building, so I thought I would start with something small yet recognizable. This bottle Bluenose II is actually going to be a gift for a friend that hails from the East Coast of Canada and calls Halifax home, although he has been all over the better part of this vast country. I would like to start with a little bit of history. The original Bluenose was constructed in Lunenburg, NS in 1921 as a fishing schooner. She spent only a year of her short life on the Grand Banks off Newfoundland fishing for Cod, and then went into racing other schooners of similar style and purpose. She finally succumbed to a death at sea off the coast of Haiti in 1946. She is immortalized on the back of the Canadian dime, as well as having her own 50 cent stamp. Bluenose II was constructed as a replica in 1963 using the original Bluenose plans. The only difference between the two is the twin propeller engine on the Bluenose II. The province of Nova Scotia purchased the BN2 for $1 CAD in 1971. The replica was deconstructed in 2010 and a reconstruction was completed in 2013 with the same name On to the build. A while ago, by friend had purchased a bottle of Crown Royal Limited Edition Canadian Whisky. Once empty, this bottle became the inspiration for this build, as it is clear with gold leaf lettering on it. That and I thought that the Canadian Whisky would tie in nicely with a little piece of Canadian heritage. With no formal plans to go off of, this is going to be kind of like putting together Ikea furniture without the instructions. I did however take a boatload (pardon the pun) of photos of the AL Bluenose II I had build a couple of years ago. From the pictures I had determined the hull is roughly bullet shaped (the projectile itself, not with the casing) at the top deck. I have no idea what the scale is going to be, but I have determined the beam width is about 1.5cm, with a deck length of 7.3cm. I believe at this point I am just going to try for a waterline model, simply because I don't think I can carve out the keel from the 1/16” plywood I'm going to use for the hull form. After cutting out the rear deck on the scroll saw, I felt that opening in the insert in the table was too wide for such thin plywood so I had to pop out the insert in the table to trace a new one onto the thin ply. Two were needed as the insert is about 1/8” thick, twice the thickness of the ply. So we will wait at this point for the glue to dry on the two inserts before I attempt to slit them and cut out the rest of the formers. Until later, any comments, questions, or concerns are greatly appreciated, whether good or bad.
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