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Found 41 results

  1. Hi All A number of years ago, I bought the first copy of a part works magazine on building a 1/96 HMS Victory. The reasons were, it was only £1.99 (starter price) and it had some nice colour pictures for reference, some nice pieces of thin plywood (always hard to find in the UK) to be used as bulkheads. It also had a gun kit comprising barrel, carriage (in 3 pieces), trucks, capsquares, a length of brass rod for axles and some small brass nails to hold the capsquares on with. This kit has been sculling around in the bottom of my toolbox for a while now, so I thought I’d have a bash at a bit of a diorama in a bottle as a side project. This was just meant as a general ‘illustration’ of a gun station, no particular ship in mind, and I fully realise that some parts are not to scale or particularly accurate. A bit of fun really. I used oak strip from www.stripwood.co.uk for the deck and hull, and the Salt Box. The Sponge Tub was made from 1mm wide strip cut from a piece of veneer (not sure what wood), coloured black on one side then stained Light Oak. Similarly the Match Tub, although this was easier as it has a solid wood former under the strips. The Handspikes were carved from dowel and stained. The Rammer was bamboo stick thinned down with the Rammer part turned and stained, similarly for the Sponge, however the head was painted white to simulate fleece. The Powder Scoop was bamboo stick with the scoop fashioned from pieces of styrene tubing and then painted; the Worm was bamboo with a coiled bit of wire painted black. I turned the Cartridge Case from a bit of Elm, as I believe the originals were. The piece of Grating was made from some mahogany strip and some white wood strip, the cannonballs were self coloured air drying modelling clay, the rack was a bit of mahogany strip. As to the gun itself, the carriage took a bit of rework to get the parts to fit and then be shaped so that it looked ok. The supplied trucks were enameled metal, so I used them to get dimensions, and used these to turn some new trucks from Elm, as this was used in the real thing. Brass wire painted black was used to make the ringbolts on the gun carriage and for the lashing points on the hull. I carved the blocks from a length of mahogany strip, used some thin brass wire to strop them and used thin thread for the rope. Once in place I soaked the thread with dilute PVA glue to stiffen them in place. I showed the tackle loosened on the diorama. The breeching rope was a thicker bit of thread; it was thick enough so that I could actually whip the eye (with a spot of glue just to make sure) after passing through the ringbolts. The small brass nails supplied to put the capsquares on were far too big so were replaced with smaller ones. The Capsquares were actually too big for the trunnions, (the barrel could fall out), so I shimmed them with some thin walled brass tube. All painted black. The bottle is a small spirit bottle, probably quarter size, about 6 inches long overall. The inside is about 3 inches long, with a top to bottom taper that caused a bit of fettling to get the deck to fit. It then took a bit of trial and error to get the deck fixed in position. CA didn’t want to know, I tried UV cured glue, but that was curing too quickly in the bright daylight (it does happen in the UK sometimes) so I used a couple of bits of Milliput in the end – not the prettiest solution – I would rethink this bit if I ever try something like this again. The stand is a piece of MDF covered in Oak Veneer, and the bottle supports are Oak strip. Turks Head knot to finish off. A work colleague suggested I name the pieces, so from left to right: Salt Box - wooden box with leather hinges to hold a couple of cartridges - the salt soaked up any moisture Cartridge container - lidded wooden container used to carry the cartridges up from the magazine - usually by the ships boys, the Powder Monkeys Handspikes - resting against the cannon - substantial shaped levers used to train the gun carriage around Sponge Tub - filled with water - used to sponge out the barrel after a shot to make sure no burning debris before putting in the next cartridge Match Tub - conical, half filled with water. A fire precaution on ships. The burning ends of the match were fed over the top. If knocked over the water put out the match. The match was used if the flintlock on the gun failed. Rammer, Sponge, Worm and Powder Scoop Happy Modelling All the Best Alan Trial fit with a pen for scale The Bad Guy's View The layout And again All Done
  2. This is my first foray into scratch building, so I thought I would start with something small yet recognizable. This bottle Bluenose II is actually going to be a gift for a friend that hails from the East Coast of Canada and calls Halifax home, although he has been all over the better part of this vast country. I would like to start with a little bit of history. The original Bluenose was constructed in Lunenburg, NS in 1921 as a fishing schooner. She spent only a year of her short life on the Grand Banks off Newfoundland fishing for Cod, and then went into racing other schooners of similar style and purpose. She finally succumbed to a death at sea off the coast of Haiti in 1946. She is immortalized on the back of the Canadian dime, as well as having her own 50 cent stamp. Bluenose II was constructed as a replica in 1963 using the original Bluenose plans. The only difference between the two is the twin propeller engine on the Bluenose II. The province of Nova Scotia purchased the BN2 for $1 CAD in 1971. The replica was deconstructed in 2010 and a reconstruction was completed in 2013 with the same name On to the build. A while ago, by friend had purchased a bottle of Crown Royal Limited Edition Canadian Whisky. Once empty, this bottle became the inspiration for this build, as it is clear with gold leaf lettering on it. That and I thought that the Canadian Whisky would tie in nicely with a little piece of Canadian heritage. With no formal plans to go off of, this is going to be kind of like putting together Ikea furniture without the instructions. I did however take a boatload (pardon the pun) of photos of the AL Bluenose II I had build a couple of years ago. From the pictures I had determined the hull is roughly bullet shaped (the projectile itself, not with the casing) at the top deck. I have no idea what the scale is going to be, but I have determined the beam width is about 1.5cm, with a deck length of 7.3cm. I believe at this point I am just going to try for a waterline model, simply because I don't think I can carve out the keel from the 1/16” plywood I'm going to use for the hull form. After cutting out the rear deck on the scroll saw, I felt that opening in the insert in the table was too wide for such thin plywood so I had to pop out the insert in the table to trace a new one onto the thin ply. Two were needed as the insert is about 1/8” thick, twice the thickness of the ply. So we will wait at this point for the glue to dry on the two inserts before I attempt to slit them and cut out the rest of the formers. Until later, any comments, questions, or concerns are greatly appreciated, whether good or bad.
  3. I created this build log for my blog. I figured I'd see if I couldn't just copy it over. I started the usual way by carving out the hull. I decided on doing a really small build. I had been reading a lot on miniature SIB's and figured I'd try it out. I then worked on the forecastle. I ended up cutting match sticks to splinters and gluing the splinters on the ship. Other builders used styrene which I may have to try out. I continued using match sticks to create the channels and chain plates. I painted the ship with acrylics and after checking it against a few photos I decided that my bulwarks were to high. So as I cut the top of the ship down to size. I did worry a little that the gun ports would not be big enough to put the cannons through but they ended up ok. You can also see in these photo's a much nicer deck then I usually have. The great part about the community build is that I was able to get ideas from other builders doing the same ship. As I watched Cecil Tiller build his ship I noticed his deck planking looked great. So I asked how he did it. He told me to take clear finger nail polish and coat the deck. After it dry's use a razor blade to cut the lines where the planking should go. Then stain the deck. The interesting thing about this method is that the stain darkens everything but where the nail polish is. Creating awesome and very visable contrast in the deck planking. To see more of Cecil's work click the link http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty/223-cecil-tiller-building-log
  4. My next small project - lifeboat RS1 Colin Archer Best Regards! Igor.
  5. Hi everyones! I had a break in the shipbuilding for more than 3 months. Now, before I go back to my current projects, I decided to do another short mini-project for restoring of my skills. So, I begin as usual with building of the hull. Richard Lawler Schooner America Best Regards! Igor.
  6. So crazy thing happened at work a week or so ago. We had a secret Santa sort of thing at work and one of my coworkers went well out of there way to find a ship in bottle kit. They went to just about every hobby store in Denver and found this one which was under the $20 limit set by the company for this activity. I'm actually highly surprised they found one at all in an actual store. I've only ever seen them online. After I got it they told me they want to see it when I'm done. I accepted politely and told them I would, inside I was thinking haven't you seen the ten ships in bottles in my office? I'm going to bash the heck out of this kit and show you a ship in bottle you won't believe! I've actually built this kit before and as far as beginning ship in bottle kits go I think it's one of the best. It is incredibly simple and the instructions are pretty good. It follows the most basic ship in bottle process using hinges for the mast. As far as ships go the rigging very basic and the parts are way off scale, not that they had any scale in mind for it. The bottle is a great beginners bottle as well. The opening is a massive inch and a quarter. More than twice the size of my usual half inch bottles. It gives you a lot of wiggle room to work with. If any one were to try a ship in bottle using a kit I think they would have an easier time with one of these then the Amati kits. Bearing in mind of coarse these will look much cheesier. Enough talk here's a photo. Here is everything that comes in the kit. There's the ship itself which I think is made out of pine. It's a more solid wood them I'm used to. There's skewers, tooth picks, popsicle stick and piece of balsa. Sand paper thread and larger string for the bottle neck and a cork. Also some tiny nails and wire for the hinges. I'm missing a page of the plans but I'm not to worried about it. I will also note that the bottle stand that comes in this kit is one of the best and I've designed many stands after it. It's just a block of wood rounded out on top but it seems to fit any round bottle I put on it. Big enough to hold the bottle small enough to not detract. I really want to go for the romanticized pirate look. Looking at the block they supply the ship has more of a clipper type deck with a long narrow bow section. I suspect they use the same piece of wood for their Cutty Sark kit. Most "pirate" like ships had a more rounded bow so I looked through the book The Story of Sail for something with a narrower bow. I think galleons is as close as it comes. They are rounder but the forecastle juts out and narrows similar enough to the cut out that came with the kit. This particular ship plan is for a ship named the Revenge from 1577. It was for a time Sir Francis Drakes Flag Ship. The ship itself has an incredible story even after Sir Francis Drake I highly suggest looking it up. I'm not sure I'll copy this one exactly but I will take a lot of aspects from this ship. Also if any one has any ideas they want to throw in to totally bash this kit post them. I want to have a lot of fun with this one so the crazier the idea the better.
  7. Hi all. Just out of curiosity I tried to find any build logs for said kits, but my google comes up with nothing. Has any of you seen or built these kits? What are they in terms of quaity/instructions? All the best Tom
  8. I've been doing some research and interviewing some older ship in bottle builders and thought I'd open this discussion up on this forum. I'm gathering information on how some of the first ships in bottle were built in hopes of using the same materials tools and techniques and documenting the experience through a build log and my blog. It seems to me a lot of this information is fading in time or at the very least hard to find. I'd like to contribute another source to make it that much easier to find and keep it alive. Here's what I have so far. Wood used was mainly pine. While not used for actual ships it had a lot of other purposes and was widely available. Hulls were often thinner then what would be scale. Segmented hulls were not often if ever done in older ship in bottles. I have heard of old ships in bottles being made from bone as well. Masts and yards were made from either splintered wood or match sticks. Both would have likely been sanded down with dry sharkskin. Glue was made from different fish parts boiled down. There's youtube videos on this I'd have to dig around for them again though. Thin thread may have been hard to find but wax from candles could have been used to strengthen pieces enough to use. Don Hubbard had a thought that Baleen from whales could have been used for thread but there's no way to know for sure. Sails were not common among old ship in bottles because they were harder to do. Usually the ship was just shown with the bare yards. When it was done they used paper or some times wood shavings. Sea is tricky and I think it depends on the time period. Michael Bardet suggested that seas were made of wood in old ship in bottles. I've seen some of the old ships he restores, some as old as 1895, and have seen how that was done. His work is incredible I highly suggest seeing it. http://michel.bardet.pagesperso-orange.fr/indexa.htm Other methods for sea was some kind of putty with pigment in it. Don Hubbard theorizes that green copper oxide could have been used as well. As far as bottles I found an interesting idea from an article by Louis Norton. He says that most alcohol would have been transported in wood barrels on sailing ships so the bottles used were more likely medicine or spice bottles. I wouldn't doubt that a sailor would keep a clear liquor bottle he picked up in port though. Most of the old bottles I've seen have mostly been wine bottles. I've looked around a little bit in regards to tools. Sailors definitely had knives and this would have been a primary tool. Other things I found were surgical scissors and Sail Awls. Tweezers or forceps could have been carved out of wood. I'm not sure yet on drills. Don Hubbard uses a technique where you sand down a needle and use it as a drill. This may have been the tool used. Shark skin for sand paper. From what I can tell sailors were quiet resourceful. Just about anything and everything could have been used. I'm sure there's ideas I haven't thought of or possibly books I don't know about. If you have any ideas please post them.
  9. All, Have a look at Juan's work. Absolutely outstanding. http://myshipsinbottle.blogspot.co.uk/ Al
  10. Today I received the Amati Hannah Ship in a Bottle. I received this beautiful kit from the Admirals parents for Christmas. Box art looks like it will make a wonderful model. Lets get started. Here are the obligatory box and unboxing photos: Started construction of the hull. Went fairly smooth. Hull is all glued together plywood that will be shaped once dry and final assembly of the deck is in place. Thought I would take this opportunity to do some painting on the PE that the instructions call for. Note that the quarter deck still needs paint. The instructions call for a matte brown painted on both deck surfaces and to sand off the excess off the main deck planks, leaving paint in just the caulk lines. Wondering if I should continue with the brown or switch to black. Time will tell. As always, questions, comments, criticisms, and concerns are welcome.
  11. Welcome to my reconstructed build log for ESMERALDA, the existing Chilean Navy Training Ship, built at 1/640 scale in a bottle. Recent photo of Esmeralda - "The White Lady" - under sail. History of Esmeralda Esmeralda's construction started in 1946, under a different name, by Spain as the sister ship to Juan Sebastian Elcano, Spain's current school ship. Work was halted in 1947 after she was damaged in a ship yard explosion. In 1951 Chile acquired her as partial payment for Spanish debts and was launched, as Buque Escuela (school ship) Esmeralda in 1954. In the 1970's her rig was changed from a topsail schooner to a barquentine by replacing the fore gaff sail with two main stay sails. Since her commissioning, Esmeralda has been a training ship for the Chilean Navy. She has visited more than 300 ports worldwide acting as a floating embassy for Chile. She participated in Operation Sail in New York in 1964, 1976 and 1986, and the Osaka World Sail in 1983. She also participated in International Regattas of Sail in 1964, 1976, 1982 and 1990 winning the coveted Cutty Sark Trophy in the last two participations. Esmeralda is the second longest and second tallest conventional sailing ship in the world. Characteristics Length: 113 meters Beam: 13.11 meters Mast height: 48.5 meters Sails: 21 total with a sail area of 2,870 m2 on four masts Crew: 300 crewmen and 90 midshipmen Top sail speed: 17.5 knots The Model I acquired a 1.5 liter wine bottle, emptied it (which I enjoyed very much!), then cleaned and dried it. I measured the inside dimensions using a piece of paper attached to a rod, trimming the paper until it would just touch the bottle at the narrowest point. Gauge for measuring the inside of the bottle. Gauge in use. I subtracted the planned sea thickness and clearance for the masts from the minimum inside dimension. I used that amount to determine the model length based on the ship's characteristics and printed a photo to match the model length and height then taped that photo to a rod to test how the model will look inside the bottle. Photo of Esmeralda inside the bottle. A model this size will fill the bottle very well. I also cut a strip of paper to the beam of the model to verify the bottle's neck inside diameter. This is important because most necks of long neck bottles have an inside dimension that is smaller than the mouth - something I learned the hard way years ago when I assumed the mouth of a bottle was the smallest part of the neck and my ship wouldn't fit through the neck even though it cleared the mouth easily. I then generated a deck plan and waterline hull elevation and laid out the plan and elevation on a block of basswood. Deck plan and hull elevation laid out. ​I used a razor saw to make a series of cuts at about 1/16th inch (1.5 mm) intervals to the profile lines on three sides of the block. After getting the rough shape by breaking off the "fins" I sanded the hull to shape. Hull cut out ready for more detailing. Esmeralda has a partially open area between the main and mizzen masts which will be detailed with two blocks for the two structures in this "waist" (for lack of a better name) and three pieces of .5 mm ply for bulwarks and deck. I also decided to make and install the bowsprit. Tapering the bowsprit with my "mini-lathe". Waist deck houses, bulwarks, weather deck over the waist and bowsprit glued in place. Esmeralda has a low bulwark (a little less than knee height) at the bow. I made this from a piece of paper slightly lapped over the hull, glued with cya to stiffen the paper then sanded to feather it in to the hull. It was trimmed to .025 inch high (approximately 15 inches to scale). Completed low bulwark at bow. Note the two holes in the bowsprit for rigging. Esmeralda has two half rounds running from the bow, along the sides and around the stern parallel to the deck. I used a scribing gauge to slightly cut grooves into the hull which were then deepened slightly with a triangular riffle. A wire or monofilament will be glued into these grooves later then painted over to replicate the half rounds. Scribing tool. Hull with scribed grooves mounted on my work board. I started work on the masts and some of the deck details. The masts have a box hinge instead of the usual piece of wire through the base of the mast bent into a "U" with the two ends glued into holes in the deck. The box hinge will be nearly invisible whereas the bent wire would be obvious. I also made the four identical tops for the masts from .5mm ply sanded to remove one layer of ply (about .015 inch thickness). The skylights were made from basswood painted white glued to a base of .5mm ply painted green. Two hatches were made from the plywood and painted green. Mast with box hinge and four tops. Drill is a #73 Skylights and hatches. I finished the rigging plan I'd been working on since making the decision to build Esmeralda. Rigging plan for the Esmeralda model. Blue and green lines represent the standing and running rigging that will be completed outside the bottle and aren't used for moving the masts and spars into position inside the bottle. Red and magenta represent the standing and running rigging that will be set up but not glued in place outside the bottle and are used for locating the masts and spars inside the bottle then glued and trimmed. I laid out the holes for the masts and rigging and started drilling them. Drilling holes at the edge of the weather deck for shrouds and back stays with a #80 (.35mm) drill. The holes at the edge of the deck need to be drilled at an angle so they don't come out the side of the hull. I had one hole out near the end of the fan tail that needed to be over 45 degrees from vertical. I didn't quite have the angle right and the hole came out the side of the hull but it was easily repaired, but redrilling the hole from the same starting hole was somewhat difficult. I also had to change to a larger diameter drill because the smaller drill wasn't long enough to drill all the way through to the bottom of the hull. Close-up of holes for fore mast shrouds and back stays. Holes for main mast shrouds and back stay are visible next to the bulwark in the "waist" at upper right. Work in general had progressed to the point that I felt getting the sea in the bottle was necessary. I used Fimo Classic modeling clay (a polymer based compound - Sculpey, Pendo and Plasticine are possible substitutes - but Fimo has a navy blue that comes very close to the color of deep water ocean). I formed it into a piece 7 inches by 2 inches by about 1/4 inch thick tapering to zero around the edges to fit into the cylidrical bottle and leave the top surface of the sea roughly level. I then put the hull on top of the clay in the position needed then pressed it firmly into the clay with a steel rod. Hull pressed into the sea to leave an impression. The steel rod is 3/16 inch diameter with the end ground, filed and sanded to a hemispherical tip then bent as needed. The gouge is a similar sized dowel with a slot cut in the end to hold a strip of aluminum soda can then wired tight. After determining the needed angle of the gouge by trial it was glued. After the hull was removed I used the gouge to remove some of the clay from inside the impression of the hull. I used the removed clay to build up a wind swell running from near the near left corner to near the far right corner (replicating the sea with a wind from about 60 to 70 degrees off the starboard bow). Using the gouge to remove clay from the hull impression. I put the hull back in the sea, pressed it down, removed it and gouged out more clay until the hull fit snugly in the depression. After that was done I used the rounded tip of the steel rod to cover the surface of the sea with little overlapping dimples except for the ship's wake which was smoothed with the tip. Sculpting the surface of the sea. I made one more check of the hull in the depression for it in the sea then added some white Fimo to simulate the agitated white water at the bow, along the sides, in the wake and for a few wind blown white caps. I placed flecks of the white (or a partial mix of blue and white) on the tip of the steel rod to transfer them to the sea then feathered them into the blue. Finished sea. I completed basic mast assembly - lower masts with hinges, tops and upper masts - and set them into the appropriate holes in the hull. Esmeralda in progress on the working board with some of the tools being used. Then I rigged her with one pair of back stays on the fore and spanker masts, a single fore stay and the mast to mast stay that connects all four masts at the mast splices. This was done in order to do a trial fit of the hull and masts to verify that the completed assembly will fit in the sea with clearance for the masts to stand erect. I calculated my dimensions very closely with about 1/16th inch clearance between the mast tips and the inside of the bottle. Esmeralda with minimal rigging. The rigging is tied off but not glued. It will be removed after the trial fit. On a previous build I neglected to do a trial fit on a ship that I had also calculated very closely. I got that ship in the bottle and in place in the sea. I had pulled up the fore mast and positioned all the fore mast yards and had glued most of the fore stays and working lines to achieve this, then moved on to the main mast. The mast tip hit the inside of the bottle before it was in its correct position. I had to cut all the glued lines to get the fore mast to fold back down so I could remove the model. Even at that two fore mast yards snapped because I could not get them arranged the way they were when I put the ship in the bottle. I NEVER omit a trial fit after that experience no matter how confident I am with my calculations. Esmeralda going into the bottle. Esmeralda in place in the sea with masts all erect. There is about 1/16th inch clearance between the mast tips and the bottle. This trial fit also gives me a chance to trouble shoot the insertion process. In this build the deep dimple in the base of the bottle prevents me from simply setting the model in place then erecting the masts. I'll have to start erecting the masts when the bowsprit is still partly in the neck of the bottle. Another good reason to do a trial fit with bare poles and minimal rigging. Now that I know my masts are all correct it's time to detail them. I made some ring bolts out of 32 gauge (.008 inch) wire by bending the wire around the tip of a needle, forming the two ends next to each other then cutting the ring bolt from the length of wire. I had so much fun doing them I made 25 of them before I realized I only needed 12. Ring bolts. I made the fore mast yards, drilled the holes needed in all the masts and yards then painted them. I decided that I could make use of the extra ring bolts by linking two of them together, eye to eye, to use to connect the yards to the fore mast. I glued one ring bolt in a hole in the center of the yard then glued the other linked ring bolt in a hole in the mast. After that I rigged the topmast shrouds, three pairs on the fore mast, two pairs on the other three topmasts. Rigging the fore topmast shrouds. Note the linked ring bolts connecting the yards to the mast. I also added an extra ring bolt to the forward edge of the top on the fore mast to use to tie off the two fore stays that start there. After rigging the topmast shrouds I glued a crossbar of thread to the shrouds about 1 mm above the top. I painted the threads from the crossbar to the top white to simulate the turnbuckles used on Esmeralda instead of deadeyes and lanyards. The futtocks were painted to match the masts. Masts with completed shrouds. I then rigged the fore mast yards with one thread through each yard end, through the mast then through the other end of each yard. The two ends terminate with a thread block - in this case a bowline tied around the point of a needle then glued - to simulate a block used in the actual rigging of Esmeralda. The only place where the thread is glued is at the course (lowest) yard which allows the yards to turn so they are nearly parallel to the mast so the assembly (with sails in place) will pass through the bottle's neck. Foremast with some of the running rigging. Note that the linked ring bolts merely locate each yard. I worked on the hull as well by gluing 28 gauge wire in the previously cut grooves in the hull, installing four ring bolts on each side of the bow and rigging the bowsprit stays. Then I gave the hull the final coat of white and glued the deck details that were ready in place. Some of the deck details installed. I then painted the figure head - an Andean Condor. Close-up of figure head and bowsprit stays. This brings us up to date on my progress reports on Esmeralda prior to the MSW shut down for the software change. In that time work continued on deck details. Davits for three of six ship's boats, crane for the zodiac, the bridge, two catwalks, four winches and the anchor windlass and associated details in place. Close-up of midship section. Davits were made from 28 gauge wire bent to shape and glued in holes in the deck. Crane made from three pieces of wood and styrene. Bridge made from a .5 mm ply base and roof, wood between, with 32 gauge wire legs at the wings. Catwalks from .5 mm ply with eight 32 gauge wire legs glued into holes in the ply and deck. Winches made from two pieces of wood on a ply base. Close-up of windlass, bits and hawser hole covers. The anchor windlass was fabricated from eleven pieces of .010 and .020 inch styrene and three pieces of wood on a base made from paper stiffened with cya glue. The windlass isn't glued down yet. That will be done inside the bottle to cover a hole through which six lines pass after they are glued and cut. You may have noticed two threads coming from under the green covers. They will be used to pull the two chain ends into place during the windlass positioning. The chain is copper, 42 links per inch, blackened with the product from Model Expo. I know it's a bit over size (by about 50%) but I could not resist putting it in. With davits on deck I need to make some boats: two longboats, two smaller boats similar to old whaling boats (pointed bow and stern, narrow beam), a zodiac and another power boat similar to a modern Boston whaler. I haven't seen this boat in any of the photos of Esmeralda I've found, I may just have to make my best guess and wing it. I can infer the length from the davits and the beam and length from Esmeralda's deck plan which shows the outline of this boat on deck but nothing more. I started with the longboats. I made a plug from basswood, dipped it in warm paraffin wax (so glue wouldn't stick to it) and wiped away the excess wax. After attaching it to the tip of an Xacto knife I covered the plug with narrow (less than 1 mm) strips of wet newsprint laid lengthwise, edge to edge, like planks. I painted a layer of thinned wood glue over that layer then added a layer of wider strips laid across the plug, again edge to edge with another coat of thinned glue over it. After the glue thoroughly dried I lightly sanded the outside of the paper hull then trimmed the overhang flush to the plug. It popped right off the plug at that point. The second longboat hull is drying now. Longboat plug and hull. Now that I'm all up to date I'll end this report. I welcome any comments and questions. Edited title of topic to reflect a change to my display name.
  12. I started this but noticed Igor had already set up a thread discussing the same topic. Can a mod delete this one please?
  13. On 5 October, National Ships in Bottles Day, the Ships in Bottles Association of America (SIBAA) announced the start of a group build of Fantasy Ships. The only criteria is that the ships are depictions from art, films, books, movies, cartoons, etc, or from the creators imagination. My first thought was one of Hornblower's ships but decided against any of them. Then I remembered that the covered wagons from the western expansion of the United States were sometimes called "prairie schooners" because of their very loose resemblance to ships at sea. That triggered a visualization of a large Conestoga Wagon "hull" fitted with masts and sails from a Baltimore Clipper and I set to work on drawings to work out the details. When I posted my drawings on the SIBAA facebook page several people mentioned a Disney animated short "The Saga of Windwagon Smith" presented as a classic tall tale like the Paul Bunyon stories. As soon as I saw the beginning of this cartoon I remembered seeing it in the theater when I was about 9 or 10 years old and that my inspiration for Ogallala must have come from it, so I'm giving credit to Walt for my inspiration. My intention is to present Ogallala as if it was real including the "real" dimensions, correct rigging, deck details, wheels and necessary wagon details like brakes and steering. In the time since preparing these preliminary drawings as jpeg images, I found the bottle I'm going to use which requires reducing the drawings from 1/64 scale to 1/96 and preparing individual detail drawings of the components, now in progress. I learned by doing how to generate the usual three view line drawings of the hull from my very simple hull. I have reduced the beam a little so the hull will fit through the bottle neck. The hull will be divided into an upper and lower section with separate wagon frame components all to be assembled inside the bottle. My first problem is how to depict a "sea" of chest high prairie grass but I'm finding information on how model railroaders do fields of tall grass or grain crops. Please, don't try to tell me that a "prairie schooner" or "windwagon" is impossible. I know and I don't care - it's a fantasy build and just for fun. I hope you join in the fun by following the build. Yippee-ki-yay and a yo-ho-ho! Dave
  14. While cruising the web I came across photos of Dan Clapp's insanity, a Skeeter class racing ice boat, which seemed like a good subject for a bottled ship. I also realized that with only eight pieces, one sail and five lines it could be a quick build. I collected several photos and set to work generating drawings. Three photos gave me the ability to generate my best guess for the shape of the hull. This first attracted my attention but is clearly heavily photo-shopped and not particularly useful. This gives a good plan view. One of two profile views. The other profile view. Bow view and intended pose for my model. Part of my drawings for insanity. I chose a 2 liter Pyrex reagent bottle 5 inches / 127 mm in diameter with a shoulder 6 inches / 150 mm above the base and a short 1.060 inch / 27 mm inside diameter neck, about 9 inches / 230 mm tall overall to be displayed vertically. The plans above were reduced to fit the model inside a 4.5 inch / 114 mm circle which will give me at least a 1/4 inch / 6 mm clearance all around. I printed patterns for the pieces to make from wood onto the paper side of freezer paper and ironed these patterns, waxy side down, to appropriate pieces of wood for the five wooden pieces. The hull and outrigger are bass wood. The forward skate strut is .015 inch / 0.4 mm plywood. On the real ice boat the sail runs in a slot in the airfoil cross-section mast and the foot of the sail is captured by the boom. I replicated this by building up those two components from three pieces of the thin plywood glued together in such a way as to make a slot in the mast and boom. The center strip in each was sanded down to .008 inch / 0.2 mm thickness. The mast was built up in a curved fixture to duplicate the curve in the bow photo above. After cutting and sanding the components to final shape I gave them a coat of cheap automotive type primer to fill the grain for final sanding. My five components, from lower left: front skate strut in front of the hull; boom and mast on the top edge of a strip of card stock; and the outrigger which was steam bent to give it a bit of curve. The curve in the mast doesn't show here. I have three skates to cut from .005 inch / 0.13 mm stainless steel shim stock and a sail to make - and yes, I'm going to duplicate the Jack Nicholson sail. After painting and detailing I'll move on to rigging the five lines and get the water and ice ready. Thanks for looking in. Dave
  15. Love, exciting and new Come aboard. We're expecting you. Love, life's sweetest reward. Let it flow, it floats back to you. The Love Boat soon will be making another run The Love Boat promises something for everyone Set a course for adventure, your mind on a new romance. And love won't hurt anymore It's an open smile on a friendly shore. It's love! Welcome abord It's love! This will be my build log for the Pacific Princess cruise ship from the 1980's show The Love Boat. The Love Boat will be about 2 inches long and built inside a small perfume bottle. Lextin.
  16. Since my first attempt at making the Black Pearl in a bottle failed I decided to restart and this time I am making it smaller and will be making the chase scene between the Pearl and the Interceptor. I might have the Interceptor in the process of clubhauling as well as having miscellaneous barrels and crates floating in the water behind the Interceptor from when they were lightening the load. Lextin.
  17. When I was cleaning on my vessel I found an old big light bulb. As I love the ships in bottles I thought it would be nice to put a little ship in there. As the entrance is not that small as a bottle it is a nice exercise before I start with a real bottle. I made a little waterline hull from wood and made some bulwarks from a sea chart which is a nice and strong paper. I made a stand to hold the model and drilled holes for the gun ports. These are squared with a little key file. The bowsprit is made from sanded down tooth picks. I made the gunwales of a suture kit which contains very fine silk thread (you can still see the needle on the end of the thread). And I painted the lower part off the hull. Jantje
  18. This is one of my favorite builds. I've done two now and they are quick and easy. I probably spend 4 to 6 hours on it. If you want to impress some one with a neat gift this is a good one. As far as ships in bottles go the ship is incredibly easy. What is not easy about it is the scale. This is on the small side even as ships in bottles go. Any smaller and your putting them in flash light bulbs. (Yes that's been done.) As far as the log goes I want to try and explain every thing I can so this will be as much a how to as it is a log. If you have questions or even new ideas to try at this scale please ask and share. I'd like their to be a good amount of information in this log so any one that wants to try this style build has everything they need to do so. Step one selecting a bottle or in this case vial. Here's one I got from Michael's in a package of vials. It came with a couple of these and a bunch of others. This size has been great. It's about an inch long not counting the bottle neck. I measure the opening to see how much clearance I have. This one about a quarter inch. The most important measurement is the inside of the bottle. Typically tall ships are about as tall as they are long so with the bottle on it's side you have enough space forwards and back. So what I need to know is height. You can measure the outside and guess on the glass thickness or you can just measure the inside with a paint brush bristle. The paint brush will be used for masts and spars as well. This is a regular old paint brush I don't even remember where I got it. I have enough bristles though for a thousand ships so there's no worry about wasting any. I cut one off and grip the middle with some tweezers and insert it into the bottle so that the ends touch what will be the top and bottom. If it's too long it will bend. I pull it out and slowly cut it down until each end just touches the top and bottom. That will be the height. This bottle happens to be a little over a half inch tall inside.
  19. To be completely honest, I'm not really interested in ships-in-bottles but I spotted a kit on eBay and decided to give it a try. (See my confession about ship- shopaholism.(http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/474-therapy-for-shipaholics/page-11#entry162167 ). I think that the age of the kit (1971) really drew me in. It was advertised as 'vintage', even though it's younger than me! Now I'm trying to figure out if I'm 'vintage' or 'antique'! The kit supplied a1/2" dowel ripped in half that had to be shaped into the hull. This was done easily enough and I painted it black. The instructions said to score the deck, but I had a better idea - I was going to plank it! I used some small dimension styrene strips I bought years ago and the deck looked pretty good...for the time being. The next step was to make railings (ugh) from brass wire. I toyed with the idea of making bulwarks out of veneer but decided to just follow the plan. Cyano was used to glue the stanchions to the hull and the rail to the stanchions. I looked at the deck again and the styrene planks were so close together that you could barely see lines, so I came up with an idea to bring out the caulk lines. I was going to use a grey artist's felt pen to wash the deck and then quickly wipe it off. I tested this on some scrap pieces and it looked like it was going to work well, even giving a little weathered look to the planks. Unfortunately, I forgot about the rails and I couldn't get in between the stanchions fast enough to wipe efficiently. The ink also loved the little bit of cyano at the base of each stanchion so the deck ended up looking hideous! Ah well. I had some dowel on hand to rebuild a hull and, quite by accident, when I ripped the dowel on my band saw the grain of the wood was perfectly parallel and so nicely spaced it looked as if I had drawn plank lines! Awesome. Railings went on pretty smoothly, I made a little jig to space the stanchions evenly. I still hate the rail. Original hull that I messed up in front, current hull behind Many modifications ensued, mostly because I'm having a tough time accepting the plans and materials. I even had to replace the cork because, when I test fit it, it was so old and dry it cracked in half! As the model now sits, the only original pieces from the kit that are going to actually be used are the bottle, two 24 mm pieces of dowel for the lower masts, the forward hatch and a piece of colour photo negative for the cabin skylights. I'm still debating whether to use the chunk of wood supplied for the display base. I glued a scaled-down picture of an actual hatch grating overtop of the ink-stamped, wildly out of scale pattern that was stamped on the hatch cover. My favourite modifications were the masts (although, the proportions of the lower to topmasts aren't great.) instead of a single piece mast, I built and tapered a topmast. I used styrene strips to make all the parts of the mast tops. I also discovered a really fine wire in, of all places, my fly-tying supplies. It's called "UNI French wire, 5 gm" and I was able to use it to make small eyebolts and portholes. I just wish I had found this wire before I made the ship's wheel and the (ugh) rails. Next, the sails. The mast according to plan on the left, my rendition on the right. Tapering was done using a sanding sick and a makeshift lathe
  20. I decided to post this here because it's practically done for one and two there's other points I wanted to bring up and discussion. So here's the story. A teacher from a local school has a kid that wants to learn more about pirate ships. She contacted the club here to see if any one could come out and teach him. I was the only one that showed any enthusiasm to I was selected. I thought it would be fun if I could give him an example of a very common pirate ship so I set out building a very small very quick ship in bottle. I will be adding sails and possibly a pirate flag soon. I based this model on this article http://www.piratesurgeon.com/pages/surgeon_pages/quarters1.html. The research the writer put in is extensive and as history usually does it contradicts everything Hollywood has taught us about pirate ships. He explains that pirates liked small fast ships not large heavily armed ships. It's a good read and chalk full of history I highly recommend it. The other point I wanted to put out there is what is it about pirate ships that modelers despise so much? Is it just to cliche? To broad because it encompasses to many ships? To childish? My thought is that many kids are into pirates these days. Wouldn't it be a good idea, dare I say, to embrace pirates a bit more in order to bring the younger generation into modeling?
  21. Seems as though I need to run into a rough patch before I hit some inspiration. Or maybe I'm just better at the 1:300 to 500 scale. In either case my current bottle build was giving me a lot of trouble and I hit a road block. So while I was thinking of how to fix that I went on to another project. I chose this one because I think I need to get back to basics again before proceeding. Also like so many of my best work it's for some one else. I may explain the story behind that later. Here's the ship. She's simple but beautiful. The only one in existence today is the Mariquita which I have based a lot of this model on. Still debating if I should break down and just call her the Mariquita but we'll see. I actually tried some thing new and did some rough measuring. The ship is a bit thin but she needs to fit in the bottle. I'm off less then a millimeter so I think it's okay even for this scale. This was actually pretty fascinating to see and I suggest trying it out just for fun. I measured out the center line and then lines on the plans. I counted twelve on the plans but the photo now shows more like 16. It's 1:300 scale kind of hard to see. Any ways. I divided the ships length by twelve and drew a line for each section. I then drew the center line. From there I went back and forth from the plans measuring each line from the center line and marking it on both sides of the center line on the wood. As I progressed the deck shape just appeared. This is probably the most fun I've ever had with a set of plans. I then carved out the hull and I apologize for not having more pictures because I tried a new technique for that as well. I've been looking at pictures of some of my favorite ship in bottle builders for a long time. One that has always intrigued me is Heather Rogers. I've posted a few pictures of her work and if you would like to see more click link. As I looked at her photo's I've found she carves ships very differently. She also did a model of the Mariquita so being I had a reference I decided to try it her way. What I found was incredible. I cut out the large pieces around the hull and then went to my usual dremel work. The proved difficult as the base got in the way. So I looked back and found that she uses chisels. I pulled out my chisels and started working with it. The grove between the base and the ship created a perfect guide. I place one end of the chisel in the groove, angled it to where I wanted to cut and slid the chisel against the hull. It was almost to easy. This hull is almost completely cut from a chisel and touched off with some sanding. I noticed though that Heather uses what appears to be harder woods. I think I may try that in the future as the bass wood is soft and dents easily. I then added the trim on the sides and the deck furniture. The ships wheel is made from a piece of a watch I bought from a jeweler for the spare parts. The deck house, hatches, skylights and dory are cut from match sticks. What's also interesting is that I'm about four hours into this build and I'm ready for masts yards and rigging. She's a quick fun build. Actually if any one wants to try ship in bottle building for the first time this ship would be a good one to start on.
  22. Since I couldn't work on my 1:48 scale Triton cross section as much as I would like I decided to make a smaller one in a bottle. I went mostly by memory for the design it is made mostly from card and balsa wood the cannons were turned from bamboo on my drill press all the coloring was done with redwood stain and black Rust-Oleum spray paint sprayed into a jar then thinned (probably a bit too much note the bleeding on one of the cannon carriages) with acetone. I made the model in pieces so that I could fit it threw the neck of the bottle then I assembled it inside the bottle it came out a little crooked but looks OK. I still need to put on some finishing touches on the outside of the bottle before I'm done it took less then two days to to get to this point.
  23. From the album: Ships in Bottles by DSiemens

    A variation of a ship from Don Hubbard's Ships in bottles book.
  24. Just a tid bit of news in the Ship in Bottle world I thought I'd share. According to "Chases Calendar of Events" October 4th is official Ship in Bottle Day! The first book listing the day will be published in 2014. According to Don Hubbard this is important because the Chases Calendar of event's is where the media looks to see what events are coming up to do articles on. One of our Ship in Bottle Association of America members already has an interview with a local newspaper. What I think this means for the modeling world is that we have a way of getting some free publicity to help share our craft. After all building ships in bottles can lead to building lager more complex models most members of this forum build. Also as part of the Ship in Bottle Day celebration the SIB Facebook group is kicking off a community build. It's not official yet but it sounds like it will be a fantasy theme. Meaning bottling any ship from a Movie, Book, Story etc. For more information check out the Facebook group. Also one more bit of info. October 4th was picked because it is Jack Hinkleys birthday. Jack HInkley was instrumental in setting up the Ship in Bottle Association of America and was the first President of the association. More info on Jack Hinkley can be found on folkartinbotltes.com.
  25. While in the process of cleaning out our storage bin in preparation for a major move later this summer, i came across a kit that we had bought several years ago when on a visit to Maine. Figured it was time to dust it off and maybe give this one a try when I need a change of pace from the other ones!

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