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ok so here is my first attempt at a build log. I have made the false keel in the process of making the bulwarks ATM it is taking me sometime as this is my first scratch build so going slowly. I am not in a hurry as am retired. looking ahead I went online and purchased some pins and small screws am thinking of trying to make some planking screws. included some pictures need to take some more as I have nearly finished making the bulkheads just one more to do. then adjusting so that they fit square.
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I spent a lot of time thinking about the measurements for the keel, but nothing really prepared me for the first rough cuts. These are going to be the keel.
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Hi First build. Going slowly and try to think thru all the steps. -
Hello all. I am still relatively new to buillding models and have just completed my first model which was fairly straight forward. However I think I have really upped my game with this one hopefully I haven,t bit off more than I can chew. The reason I picked this one is that Amati have 17 videos on how to assemble on Youtube. I have checked that everything is in the box, although it only gives a list but not how many of each,however it all appears to be there. I have already come across a few issues which were explained in the first video mainly with assembly of the keel , frames, false deck support pieces and false deck. The only problem so far which has caused some thought which although pointed out in the video which was the hole in the false deck for the mizzen mast lines up with one of the bulkheads. Unfortunately the guy on the video does not mention a solution to this problem. Fortunately I believe i have found a way . I will try and post a couple of photos which show how I have done this. I am of coarse assuming that the hole in the deck is accurate. -
Hi All, I'm staring a log to show my progress and to get feed back. The model was bought approx. 25 years ago (getting to old for remembering details that far back) at a local bobby shop. I had some model experience before but only plastic, but it look cool and I had high expectations for doing the build in a ferally short time. But the reality came pretty fast. It turn out to be a hell of a lot bigger project that I thought. The instruction was very limited to say the least, only 11 pages with drawings and instruction (in 4 languages). It also turned out that several of the structure was bent. What I've should was return the model and get a beginner model. Well that did not happen. I started building the hull and planking and got frustrated and set it aside for 25 years. Know I'm 25 years older, gotten some more experience and more patience. And want to finish my ship and learn more about ship building. So this is status so far. And here you see one of my challenges, the frame is twisted. So I need to do some visual cheating but compansating on one side to make it look even. Right now I'm waiting for some more planking to finish the hull. I see from other logs that my drawing is quit different in many ways. So will do some more comparing to see if I can pick up some useful tips. I order the Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier and The Armed Transport Bounty (used, they are to expensive new) to help me out with getting through this build. That was before I came across this forum, where there is a ton of information and experienced people. -
I'll start by saying, I wasn't planning on doing a build log... There are a 15 logs for the same model on MSW already. However, at last check, only one was to completion. The other logs offer a lot of help and information but only as far as they go! So, even though I started the model 3 months ago, I did take pictures along the way and any details I may have left out can easily be found on the other logs. I pledge to keep this log running to the models completion, however long that takes. This is my 4th model and I continue to learn new techniques and ideas. I think that will never stop. There are so many masters on this forum! I hope, someday, to be as capable as them. I am attempting to keep this model as historically accurate as I can based on the plans and the book "The anatomy of a ship : The armed transport Bounty". Additionally, I will be aging or weathering the ship as I build it to give it that "realistic" look. This is the first time I've tried this method and as you'll see it has been challenging but also a lot of fun! Before I start, I'd like to thank several builders that have inspired and unknowingly helped me to this point. Many are still on my favorites list and all have build logs that you may want to reference too: Captain Al Cobr Grendel Rcmdvr Thomaslambo Tim Moore Trig There are probably a couple more that I missed... Okay, lets get started! I didn't bother taking pictures of the box, unpacking and indexing the parts. I'm sure there are plenty of those out there! I found the contents to be of very good quality and I was not missing any parts or components. The scale drawings and picture book are very detailed. The instruction book is probably a bit sparse if you are new to modeling. The picture book helps fill in some of the gaps but frankly, without some of the build logs, it would be very difficult in places. The first few steps are pretty straight forward: 1. Cut out the keel and frames 2. Sand the little tags off and remove the charred layer for better glue adhesion. 3. I chose to stain the frames and keel with a walnut stain, taking care to keep stain away from the areas to be glues. It took two coats to get to the color I wanted. The picture below was taken with just one coat. I purchased (prior to starting this model) a model ship building slip: It has been a great tool for holding the model and I expect to use it throughout the build. Look at the above log for more details... worth every penny! It is extremely important that the keel is kept straight and that each frame is installed plumb and level to the keel. This CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH!! If any of these are off, you'll struggle with it throughout the build. A word of caution... Make sure the table or bench is level too... If it isn't, make note of the difference and ensure that the identical difference is transferred to your model as you build it. As you can see in the pictures above the building slip has an attachment to help keep the frames at 90 degrees to the keel and the frames were leveled using a small level resting on the top of the frames before gluing and taping into place. Each frame was allowed to dry several hours before the next frames was added. More to come later today or tomorrow. -
Hi All, This is a relaunch of a build log after a “minor” pause of about 10 years! In 2010 flushed with the experience of building Calderscraft’s H.M.Cutter Sherbourne, I felt back then I could tackle something bigger and came across this kit on eBay, started by someone else and abandoned – and no I didn’t pause to think why! So Here we are in 2021 and I have dusted the old kit off and restarted it, making I think reasonable progress, but also relearning the problems and issues I had with the kit that caused me to lose heart in 2011. I have built one other model since, Caldercraft's H.M.S. Orestes (Mars) so I have learnt something along the way, but happily rediscovered MSW to help me this time! As there has been so many years in between I will just post a selection of the old photos I took back then, to give you a flavour of where I got to, then I will update with where I am now. So here is what I bought back in 2010 full of excitement! -
So, this is my very first build. I'm a bit lost in places and still trying to figure it all out. I would love some advice about the issues I'm facing. Please excuse my limited ship lingo; I'm still learning but will do my best;). Firstly, the walnut parts of the false keel don't seem to fit together properly. I lined the bottom piece up with the stern piece, but that then left a gap in the middle. I was reading the fixing boo-boo forum and was wondering if the method of sanding down some scrap walnut, mixing it with dilute PVA glue and using it to plug the crack would work? Secondly, the 6th bulkhead isn't level with the top part of the false keel but is in line with the bottom of the ply part of the false keel like the other bulkheads. Is this a problem? If so, how would I attempt to correct it, bearing in mind that my wood-working skill are limitted and I'm learning as I go? Thirdly, as far as planking goes, I've been reading the tutorials and looking at Dan Page's build log of the same model and I'm a bit confused. All the tuts speak about dividing the keel into bands and using stuff like a planking fan, but the instructions on my model just start laying planks from the deck down, no lining off or anything, and then just filling in the resulting triangular stern gaps with stealers. Now I'm not expecting the most prestine or accurate hull out, I am a beginner, but if I follow the instructions on my model, am I going to run into more issues than it's worth? Which method is easier? I've attached photos to illustrate what I'm talking about:). -
I bough the book The Armed Transport Bounty which has a lot of good detail for building the Bounty including a table over all rope sizes and blocks. In the table there are detail describing block size and type, but it is confusing to understand which type of block to use. In the beginning I thought H=heart (as you have picture of) and B=blocks, but then there was C, D? Also thought B9=9" block, but that was not correct. Hope someone with more understanding of ship building could explain how this works and what it means, so that I can try to build my Bounty as accurate as practical possible.
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Open the box! First impressions; Artesania Latina do not appear to have the best of reputations, and on doing research, to find out that the Bounty kit is only single plank on frame rather than the more acceptable double planking, didn't help that reputation. Aparently the manuals weren't up to much either, badly translated for one thing (AL are Italian of course), and I did come across veiled suggestions the kit quality had a lot to be desired. However the ship had already been ordered, a gift from my children, so there was no going back, the box arrived... ...and what an impressive box it was to! 30 x 17 x 2.5 inches (76 x 43 x 7 cms) and heavy with it. On opening the box, I couldn't help but be quite impressed. At the top of the pile was a package containing the manuals (yes two!) and the drawings. The manuals were relatively impressive, the first was a full colour and seemingly very detailed book containing a host of photographs each part in each photograph numbered. The second manual was the instruction booklet (in several languages). Each paragraph in the manual makes reference to each photograph, thereby illustrating every step, but how accurately remains to be seen. So far, quite impressed. I was then shocked to discover how huge the actual scale drawings were! Given the box is 30 inches long, the size of the drawing is indicated in the photograph below. There are three sheets, but each has content on both sides, and very detailed content it appears to be. So far very impressed. Then the rest of the contents. The usual laser cut sheets of different thicknesses of wood, all seemingly excellent quality, and the wooden strips and dowling. It became obvious the ship only has single planking, as the obvious keel planking strips seemed relatively few. The other contents included all the many bits and pieces, all neat and tidy in individual plastic trays rather than plastic bags! I later discovered these trays are actually quite robust and reusable, which should prove very handy. The qualty of the components, especially the turned brass ones, appeared excellent. Still impressed! Eventually I did make a start on the build. As I was still finishing my previous ship, I only undertook this because the instructions recommended, for absolute realism, the first keel items should be stained and varnished before being built, and I could continue with my original ship as this was drying. As it transpired I have elected to paint then varnish, as the stain didn't cover the imperfections of the wood. As the painting / varnishing could be done after the initial bit of build, I did actually commence. The pIeces; false keel and first frames, were removed from their sheet easier than any I have come across before, and the quality seems very good indeed. The frames all fitted into the keel well. Now to paint and varnish. Bryan -
I'm guessing that I'm in the position as many other modelers in here, I'm new and the model kit instruction is not very good. So, I've bought a couple of books trying to learn standard rigging and sail for ships to due my rigging on the Bounty. My questions are: 1. Is Slab lines and Bunt lines the same lines just for and back of the sail? On the drawings it look like it. 2. For my both Reef points and Gaskets are doing the same job, tieing the sail together, correct?
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A scale model of Captain Bligh's BOUNTY, Eaglemoss' collections... -
Much has already been written on the subject of the Mutiny on the Bounty, the events & causes leading up to it, the fallout after the fact, and the perilous journey thrust upon Capt Bligh and the loyalists cast adrift. Whilst working on a build of the HMS Bounty Launch recently, one of the questions which arose was what additional items could a builder put into their Launch to add a little touch of historical authenticity. As such, the following has been produced from a dissertation of William Bligh's meticulously kept logs. This is not intended to be a historical study or scholarly review to be added to the already impressive collection of writings on the Mutiny event. My main purpose is to allow modellers of HMS Bounty and/or the Bounty Launch to have a quick reference point whereby they can see what was taken on-board at the outset, and what was collected, found or traded along the way. In this way, I would hope you can select and model any additional equipment for your Launch build. Resources used for this compilation were: "The Bounty Mutiny" - William Bligh and Edward Christian (brother of Fletcher) "A Narrative of the Mutiny, On Board HMS Bounty" - William Bligh "In Bligh's Hand" - Jennifer Gall (Any errors or omissions of fact are mine entirely.) Mutiny Spreadsheet.xml
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Hi all. Recently completed the Miss Severn by Legend model boats, but can't yet get it on the water seeing as it is winter here in the great white north. My winter+ project is the Latina 1/48 Bounty. Should look good beside Cook's Endeavour on my display shelves when complete. It's a single plank on frame design with an exposed interior below decks rather than the usual double planking on plywood bulkheads. Created a simple plywood building slip to ensure the hull stays true during construction, and decided to paint the ribs maritime white to provide contrast with all the timber and flotsam that will be on display below decks. Not the walnut finish suggested by Latina but I've seen a museum model done this way and it was a beauty. -
Hello all together out there, About ten years ago I've purchased Caldercraft's Bounty kit but stopped the build, my first build log on MSW I, soon after the finish of the second planking. The reason that led to this decision was simple. Meanwhile I've got John McKays book about the Bounty from the Anatomy of a Ship series as well as a copy of the original drawings made on behalf the Admiralty 1787 soon after the purchase of the Bethia. The drawings have had a lot of alterations to modify the ship for survey service in Her Majesty Service that ends up in the famous voyage and the mutiny in the years 1788/1789. A view on McKays drawings and on the NMM's drawings brought to light, that the dimensions of the spares and parts in the kit doesn't really fit and where oversized. Especially the breadth doesn't fit and seems to be 1 foot 8 inch too wide. In the end, I've got frustrated and began another build, the HMC Sherbourne, but this is another story. Unlike the common knowledge about Bligh, Christian and the mutiny, burned in our minds by well entertaining but less historical movie pictures, we do know nowadays that Bligh was not that despot as shown in the movies. Actually, he was one of the best navigators after Cook and a commander with foresight. 2 years later he fulfilled his order to bring breadfruit plants to the West Indies on a second voyage (a less known fact), became captain, fought at the battle of Copenhagen close to Nelson, was honoured by Nelson to be a very brave and proper commander in the battle and became in 1806 governor of New South Wales. This fact does close the circle form the Bounty to my another scratch build, the Schooner for Port Jackson. These ship sailed during the government of Bligh who became Vice Admiral. It is known today that Edward Edwards, commander of the HMS Pandora cumulated all the granted characteristics told about Bligh. By the way, among his remarkable voyage of 3,618 nautical miles (6,701 km) to Timor in Bounty's 23ft launch in company with his loyal men he survived two another mutinies. Two of his fellows on this voyage did the same trip again in an open boat in 1791 after HMS Pandora wrecked in Torres Street. Thus sailed with captain Edwards to catch the mutineers. To the restart of my build of the Bounty; Over the years the kit is gone and my first try get dusty in the bookshelf. I going to preserve her from an inglorious fate and wanna build her back to the bulkheads first and will start a second scratch build project. Meanwhile I have scaled up the drawings from McKays book to my preferred 1:64 scale. She was my first wooden shipbuild and after the scratch building experience with my Sherbourne and my Schooner for Port Jackson I am less happy with the obvious mistakes I did, especially on the curves at the bow and the stern, as well as with the (minor) incorrectness of the kit. As told, the breadth appears 1 foot 8 inch to large (8 mm in 1:64 scale), too, the bulwark astern is approx 10 inch (4 mm in 1:64 scale) to high. Attached you find some pictures about the current status of the Bounty. It is interesting to compare the 50ft Schooner for Port Jackson with the size of the 89ft Bounty. Both are made of the same scale. Cheers, Daniel -
Well here is the beginning of my first build log with Model Shop World. I have opened the box, read the instructions at least three times and numbered all the precut pieces. As you can see I have started the hull. I think this will be a challenging kit and somewhat unusual as part of the starboard side of the hull will be left open to show the decks, accommodation etc. That is why the hull at the moment looks like fish bones as all the decks have to be assembled at the beginning of the process. This will give sufficient strength (I hope!) to be able to do the fairing of the hull prior to any planking. This has meant that I had to be extra careful to get all the sections completely vertical at this stage. I have to say that so far the pieces have been very well cut making the assembly process thus far reasonably easy. The only slight worry is the transom where the pieces could have fitted better but I hope to sort that out when I come to do the fairing. -
Hi All, Returning to model ships, I decided to start with a small one. "Following the mutiny on the Bounty, Captain Bligh, along with 18 loyal members of the crew were cast adrift in the launch, and made a remarkable voyage to the island of Timor, after spending 41 days in the worst possible conditions." I started with the keel but forgot to take pictures. Here's one where I'm placing the floor (sorry for the mess in the background, my workplace is tight ) I use small wood separators to keep all planks even while they set Next step is to glue the thwarts in place and start planking Cheers, Federico. -
Welcome on the build of Revell's Bounty scale 1/110 I got this kit for free from friends who cleaned up their attic. My first idea when I opened the box. Was oops .... On closer examination, it turned out that the model design probably dates from 1956. The mold is from 1978. Therefore the "lesser quality" of the details to current standards. First, i wanted to throw everything away. But it had some trouble with this idea. So why not start on it and try to add some extra details. This will not be an exact copy. My biggest challenge to make this model a bit nicer than what can be made with the contents of the kit. I am not going to buy extra parts, only items and plastic sheet from the parts box will be used. My only experience with plastic ship models dates from my younger years. I have only experience with military models in scale 1/72 So we shall what the future brings. Main goals are : making of a good model and have fun. Info about the ship and voyage https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Bounty Royal museum Greenwich https://prints.rmg.co.uk/search?q=bounty&type=product Info about the Revell model https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/ships/sailings-ships/h-m-s-bounty.html the deck is equipped with molded on details. Removing all this and making them new is impossible. That's why I make a new deck first Engrave the deckplanks on plastic sheet Add hatches and "grating" (This grating may be replaced later by something else) Opening for a ladder. I dont throw plastic leftover parts away .... A first test to see if the deck fits. and... it fits With 2 Bradley's in the background to be continued, thanks for following.- 170 replies
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Hello! I am new in this forum and this is my first wooden boat model i am building. I am just finish the first planking and in to the number 2 planking using mahogany strips. I find this part of the building not so easy do to the shape of the hull and the sokening of strips and the shaping of the strips. But i will make som paperstrips to use as templates to see how the the trips are going to be trimed to fit the shape of the hull. I will post som more pictures later on. Regards B. Brekke -
I have settled on the Bounty as a back-to-ship-building after starting several other kits from my retirement stash. They were to get my fingers back into practice and to see if they could still do the work. Ok, so far!! First off, I like the large scale. I can still see what I am doing. I made the decision to not do the cut-a-way. I feel the kit sorely lacks accuracy in this area. It would take an admiralty model to do interiors satisfactorily, in my thinking. The correctly number and spaced frames for starters. I did some planking on the lowest forward deck (practice and caulking). I make the mast steps with packing spacing the double-ers (spell check does not like that one at all) so that the hole is a square, equal to the mast diameter. The mast, once made, can rotate when mounted. Making a tendon step is just to far in the future for me to plan. This brings up the first challenge, put three decks and a step together ( 4 holes in a straight line) so that the mast ends up in the correct position. All was good until the main deck was added. Generally, my paper plans cross-sections are long compared to the ply wood parts. Almost, 1/8", 3-4mm longer. Dry fitting the main deck with the notches hooked on the last frame, the first frame notches show the gap. Red arrows in picture. The mizzen and main mast aligned OK, but the fore-mast, not even close. Move the deck hole and cover with deck planks. I mounted the middle deck to help align the frames. This was a easy keel/frame assembly to bend. The main deck came out slightly off center to the frames. Fill strips on one side and sand the other. I will made some better set up jigs for the next one. For some reason I could not see the bow curves, so I filled in the bow frames (mostly(. I slotted two scrap pile pieces of wood to fit the false keel for a building stand. No patent, free idea for the general public. My son works with the Free Software Foundation, so I freely offer most of my tips.😊 I will get the next installment, now about three down on "The List" eventually! I will update next Friday, when I learn when they are doing my other knee. Twenty steps up to the shipyard. Could be a problem, Houston. -
Hi all First build log but second build having just finished building the HMS Revenge by Ocre. Was a fairly basic model but I feel I learnt quite a lot doing it. Have purchased the AL Bounty kit after seeing a few of the build logs on here and quite liked the idea of the open side and the amount of detail you could put in it. It was a toss up between the Bounty and Caldercraft's Mary Rose but, in the end, the Bounty won. I'm going to be making quite a few additions to the interior as had been done in other logs as I feel it adds more to the model. I'm also going to have a go at adding some internal lighting to the ship as what's the point of the interior detail if you can't see it? I'm also planning on putting a bit of paint on the exterior to brighten it up a bit (just a little blue and yellow) After opening the box, spending a few hours reading the instructions and typing the part list up onto a spreadsheet to make identification and searching easier, I noticed that there's a number of pieces missing: 8mm brass rings, 0.6x6 basswood, 1x8 basswood and cloth for the bales plus there not being enough 0.6 x 3 basswod, 1 x 10 basswood, 1 x basswood, 3 x 5 basswod and ø6 dowells. As I was ordering more material to make additional cabins and features, I just re-ordered what was missing. I purchased the Billings boats slip to use for the bounty but have found it's no good for this model as the frames go right down to the bottom of the false keel. I've made my own version using a shelf, some angle brackets and some blocks of wood. Hopefully it gets the frames in a perfect position. One thing I could do with advice on is what is single planking and double planking? The bounty model is single planked but the Revenge model I made had 1 layer of basswood/lime planks and then you covered it with 0.6mm strips over the top. I really liked the finish this gave the model in the end and would like to do the same thing for the bounty (plus it hides the pin heads). Is this what is referred to as double planking and would anyone advise against it on the AL Bounty? Edit - have learnt this is called a veneer. No idea if it's the "done thing thing" or not, but I'm going to do it anyway. The Revenge took me a month and half to complete but I'm planning on spending a lot more time (I know it's going to take months/year(s)) on the Bounty to get it "perfect". I've made a start cutting the pieces out of the kit and have started the sanding/staining/varnish process as I like the walnut finish on the frames and false keel. Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated. Will keep you all updated and thanks for reading! -
Been a looong time since I’ve posted here, but I thought I’d drop in and give an update on my build. I recently dusted her off, found a spot on the work bench and am continuing the build. It’s slow going, just a piece or two a night between diner and bed, but I’m starting to see the slow progress. Excuse the mess, we’ve recently moved and I haven’t arranged everything yet: -
Here we go..... I started one year ago. It is just my third kit, after Tramontana from AL and SJ Nepomuceno also from AL. I'll share all my pictures, where some of my "tricks". I'll be more than glad to answer your questions as well your advices. Regards -
Hello, my name is Samuel and this is my build log. This is my very first build, and I am super excited about it. Like I said in my introduction post, I was gifted a wooden kit of the HMS Bounty 1:110 (Constructo) a few years back and never got around to building it because I was scared of messing it all up. Now as I am a little older I started it as an "end of summer project" and I think I am about 3 weeks in and the ship looks good so far. There is still a lot of work to do, and I know I will not be able to complete it before I head back to school in the fall. I plan to post photos of the ship after every addition that I add, and will probably ask a few questions about how to do a particular step(s) and look forward to the day that I can show my friends the work that I put in on this ship. Attached you will see some photos of the ship once i decided to start documenting my work, and you should be able to see a very slight progression as time passed. I will also be posting a photo of the box and ideal finished product. Let me know if you would like any more photos and I will do my best to post them and answer and questions that you all may have for me. Here is the link to my "new member post" -
This is my second build, first was the GJOA by Constructo. Happy enough with that one apart from the sails and rigging work. Sails seemed a bit bulky material wise, and the rigging i was sort of clueless on,the writer of the instruction book seemed to give up long before reaching the rigging stage, so i winged it. Hadnt discovered this forum until recently, so hoping to do much better with the HMS Bounty by following some of the advice posted on here. Though whether i do the rigging and sails on this one is yet to be decided. I mostly lurk here reading other peoples logs for ideas and tips on how to do certain things. Wasnt sure whether to create one myself as my camera isnt the best, but ill give it a shot and hopefully keep it going. I need to get better lighting sorted which will hopefully make the photos a bit clearer. I started about a week ago. Very impressive box on opening it, well packaged. The drawings (Multiple!), written instructions and picture instructions all look very impressive, though from reading on here it seems these become less impressive further in. First task was to label all the precut sheets of wood for easier reference from the paper cut sheet, mark the frame numbers and then cut them out. Next was to sand the laser char off. Started by hand as i was afraid of taking too much off, but ended up using a dremel (cheap brand version) jammed in my vice with a sanding attachment on it to do the heavy work, finishing off with a narrow hand file. Not too sure how much you need to sand off, i dont get them spotlessly clean but the glue seems to hold anyway. Do kit manufacturers leave extra wood on the parts to account for sanding off the laser char? All sanded and dry fitted. The slip is the Hobbyzone small building slip,purchased for this build. Would have preffered the bigger one as you can rotate it, but didnt have the desk space. Though the small one can apparently turn 180 degrees either way, but i dont see how. The arms rotate, but they sit flush on the bottom, so one side can rotate up, but the other cant go down? The instructions werent the best for it, only several parts to it, but i still managed to glue several parts in the wrong place before i realised. 😄 Next task was to stain all the parts. I used Littlefairs Dark Walnut wood stain (Is it alright to mention brand names here?).One coat was enough, any more felt a bit too dark compared to the supplied walnut wood. Couldnt decide whether to stain the parts that get glue later or tape them off. Going by google apparently wood glue wont stick to stained wood, but ive seen alot on here glue onto the stain. Did a quick test and the glue seems to hold, so i coated everything. Perhaps not as strong as before, but enough for model purposes hopefully. I intend to follow Thomaslambo's way of doweling, and dowel some of the cross beams into the frames which should strengthen it all quite a bit anyway. I didnt stain the outside edges to give the planking a better grip, though i forgot some of them will be exposed in the open hull, though i intend to follow other builds again and veneer the exposed ply edges with 0.5mm walnut, think it will look a bit better than exposed ply layers. Ive fitted half of the frames now. They arent perfect,hoping once the decks etc are on it will square them a bit further.I messed about with the first 2 alot, the fore and aft, trying to get them as square as i could so that i could measure off of them,the ones after that were installed using a combination of 2 levels, a square, and some balsa jammers cut to size. Turns out my desk or floor has a run, so i had to glue packers to the bottom side of my building slip to get it level first of all. Then i could keep one level on the first frame which was set the day previously, making sure it stays level and then set the other frames with another level. The instructions state that the slots on the keel for the frames are at regular spacings. Maybe im interpreting that wrongly, but to me that means they should all be the same? They arent anyway, so i have several balsa jammers cut at 32,35 and 36mm so that i can clamp onto the previous frame when gluing up. Am also using the middle deck to align the frames, along with the jammers. First half of the frames are fitted, almost have the lower crossbeams fitted to them all, and thats the stage im at so far. I also moved desk in between those photos, as i outgrew my small one. So the computer is now on the small desk and my modelling stuff has taken over the large desk ! Looking towards the next parts. Id like to scratch build some of the interior cabins,fittings etc as several other build logs have done. I dont really need a wood lathe, but considering getting one to make some columns and bannisters etc for the stairs. We'll see 😉
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