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Found 18 results

  1. This is my first semi-scale scratch build and it is more like an experiment, which may possibly end in a big fail. I bought a Caldercraft Badger and Granado kit from eBay (from a guy who probably gave up this hobby) some years ago for a reasonable price and the Badger had been already started but with a lot of mistakes. I kept both kits in storage and did some easier builds instead. A friend of me had recently bought a simple CNC laser engraving machine (to cut ribs for RC-Planes) and I had the idea to build a bigger version of the Badger instead of fixing the already started kit. I also would like to add some extra details and make some changes to the hull according to the NMM plans. There has been a discussion about this before to prepare that build. I decided to enlarge the plans to 1/48 scale, redraw the bulkheads with Corel Draw to add a rabbit, redesigned the false keel as two parts instead of one (because the machine’s working area is restricted to 30cm x 40cm) and create dxf-files to let him cut the parts. After some trials he was able to cut all the bulkheads, the false keel, plywood deck and gun pattern for me. Although the engraving machine was not designed to cut 5mm plywood, the parts are usable. So I started to build a 1:48 version of the Badger, which will be approximately 80 cm long and 70 cm high. I will mainly use the supplied Caldercraft plans but enhance the build with the NMM plans that I will also use for reference. The Badger is a small brig (former US merchant vessel Defence) that allows me to do some custom work and will be a nice addition to the AVS as both ships have a lot of similarities and are build in same scale. Also it allows me to stay with 1/48 scale some more time. I made a start already, building a rack to put the model on during construction, gluing all bulkheads to the false keel and adding some balsa fillers to give the first planking more gluing surface. Bevelled all bulkheads, sanded the filler blocks to shape and already prepared the 1,5mm x 5mm basswood strips for the first planking.
  2. Hi All, It is time to start a new challenge for me in this hobby. I have been looking for a scratch build model for a while now. One of our club members gave me the plans for the Rattlesnake using the Hahn Harold method. After looking at the plans and reading about this ship, I decided to jump into it. Here are the fully rigged model dimensions: Length: 37" Breadth: 12" Height: 24 5/8" Some history HMS Cormorant was probably launched in 1780 at Plymouth, Massachusetts. She was commissioned as the Massachusetts privateer Rattlesnake in 1781. The Royal Navy captured her shortly after she set out on a cruise and purchased her. In November 1781 she carried to England the first news of General Cornwallis’s defeat. The Royal Navy registered her under the name Cormorant. In 1783 the navy renamed her Rattlesnake and paid her off and sold her in 1786. Rattlesnake was probably drawn by John Peck of Boston, Massachusetts, and probably built at Plymouth in 1780. She was very lightly built and was reputedly very fast. Rattlesnake had the appearance of a miniature frigate, with detached quarterdeck and forecastle. Rattlesnake was commissioned on 12 June 1781 under the command of Mark Clark (or Clarke). She had barely begun her first cruise when she encountered the 44-gun frigate HMS Assurance, Captain James Cummings commanding. Assurance captured Rattlesnake on 17 June. He sent her into New York, where she arrived on 8 July. The Royal Navy purchased her on 28 July at Boston. (Wikipedia). For the past few months, I have been asking a lot of questions to my club experienced builders, read a few books and studied the plans. I had decided to use Cherry for the frames. First, I created the jig to handle the frames. I used a jigsaw to remove most of the waste. Here is my first mistake. I am not sure why but I started to use a copping saw to cut the notches in the jig and few rasp. None of the angles were perfect. I have scroll saw, why did I not use it?!?!?? Here is the damage Here is the redo one with the scroll saw. Much better Jigs are cutting all the frame components. A lot of them but all angles and lenghts are covered I will need around 450 pieces to make them. To practice and test I made some billets made of pine (2by4). Here is the jig in action. Colored the frames for use of locating where each of the parts are going. Made a new crosscut sled. Next step, preparation of the cherry billets . Pictures to come....
  3. 1:50 Brig Aris – Historical Ships range Navarino Models Catalogue # C502 Available from Navarino Models for €549,00 The 350-ton Aris was constructed as a merchant vessel in Venice in 1807. Upon the outbreak of the Greek Revolution in March 1821, her owner, Anastasios Tsamados (1774-1825) from Hydra, armed the ship with 16 12-pounder guns and joined the fleet of his home island. Aris participated in many of the early naval clashes with the Ottoman Navy but became famous after the action fought at Navarino on 8 May [O.S. 26 April] 1825, which became known as the "Sortie of Aris" (Έξοδος του Άρεως). At that time, a Greek garrison was quartered at the island at Sphacteria, which controlled the entrance of the excellent natural harbour of the Bay of Pylos (Navarino). Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, tasked by the Ottoman sultan to suppress the Greek revolt, needed to take the island in order to use the bay for his own purposes. Aris, along with 5 other brigs, were anchored at Sphacteria when, on the morning of April 26, the combined Ottoman-Egyptian fleet arrived and started its attack on the island, bombarding the Greek positions and disembarking numerous troops. Most captains of the ships were on land, along with part of their crews, who were manning the island's cannons. The other ships sailed before the Ottoman fleet could seal off the bay, and after fighting off the Ottomans, were able to escape. The crew of Aris however still awaited their captain, who had been killed. Instead, Nikolaos Votsis, the captain of the Athena, which had already sailed without him, and Dimitrios Sachtouris, the commander of the Navarino fortress, came aboard, fleeing the advancing Egyptian soldiers. Votsis took over as captain, with Sachtouris as his first mate, and set sail. Also present on the ship was the Secretary of State, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, who was sent to the hold for safety. Aris sailed through the midst of the Turco-Egyptian fleet, being attacked on all sides for several hours and facing in total 32 ships one after another, before reaching the open sea. Casualties among the crew were just two dead and six wounded. After the end of the War of Independence, the ship was bought by the Greek government for the new Royal Hellenic Navy and renamed Athena (Αθηνά). It reverted to its old name in 1879, and was in service, mainly as a training vessel for the Hellenic Naval Academy, until 7 April [O.S. 25 March] 1921, when it was ceremonially sunk off Salamis with full honours on the 100th anniversary of the Greek Revolution. The action, justified on the grounds of the expense involved in the ship's maintenance, caused much criticism at the time from those who favoured her retention as a naval monument. Today, only the ship's figurehead is preserved, at the National Historical Museum of Athens. The kit This is our second Navarino Models review, with me taking a look at their Brockley Combe back in 2018. This time, Navarino have done the subject they always wanted to tackle, and that is a ship that was a belligerent at the battle from which the company named itself. And they’ve not done this by half either, with this release being presented in a high-quality birch ply box with a sliding lid that has a little trough for your finger to gip when you open the lid. The lid is also colour-printed with the box art, and each box is engraved with a serial number. Mine is kit #2! Navarino also asked if I’d like my name engraved, and they did this for me too. Now, this is a HEAVY box, so some care is needed in opening this up to take a look inside. Sliding back that lid uncovers some layers of bubble packing that stop anything rolling around whilst in transit. Hang on a minute...what is this I see? Well, Babis, the owner of Navarino Models obviously spotted my Facebook avatar and knew I was a Bowie fan, so he popped a 7” single in there of Blue Jean! That has surely got to be the most original item I’ve ever received with a kit! The covering letter explains a little too. Ok, back onto the subject. Underneath the protective layers, we have six sheets of plans, some sheets which form the plan identification, and also a set of English language instructions. Remove this and we see two clear plastic trays of fittings, a bag of rigging material, two bags of plywood components, three sheets of 6mm ply parts, two bundles of strip timber, and two large ply deck sections. Before I jump into the contents, here’s a great little video made by Navarino, highlighting their new kit, with some finished images of this famous brig. Suggested Tools Navarino supply the following text to recommend tools for the project, but you may of course have your own alternatives: Pliers, hammer (a small one), saws, chisels, knives, files, drills, electric plank bender or a mini travel iron, rasps (flat & half round), needle threaders, tweezers, rulers, squares, compass, awl, clamps, sanding blocks (small wood blocks, ice cream sticks), sandpaper (aluminium oxide is best), hobby plane, vice, scissors, pins, drills. For painting Again more suggestions from Navarino Models: Colour selection: Initially it is advisable to choose to use model paints on this model. They are produced exclusively for modelling use. The choice of the company is yours. You will also choose whether to be acrylics or enamels. Another alternative is oil painting, but these require more time to dry. Varnishes: These can be applied by brush or spray. Matt or satin or satin are preferable for use, but not gloss as this is more likely to be used on a sailing yacht! Brushes: Use good quality brushes with round, pointed and flat bristles, depending on the surface you are painting. Clean them thoroughly and after a painting session, wash them with a mild detergent to condition them. Main deck sections Two large, thin ply parts, pre-cut to size with CNC, are supplied for the main deck sections. Minimal clean-up is required around the mast positions, to remove a little furriness from the machining process. These deck sections give a pretty good idea about the size of this brig in 1:50, and just how fat she was in the beam. At 1143mm in length, this is definitely a large model when complete. False keel, bulkheads, cheeks etc. Three sheets of high quality 6mm birch ply are included which contain Aris’ main hull construction elements. As with all cutting on this kit, the parts are machined using CNC, and some very minor clean-up of some edges will need to be done with tickling the edges with a sheet of abrasive paper. All machining is excellent, with small tabs (not full sheet depth) that you will cut through to release the parts. Due to the length of the hull, the false keel is provided in two sections. Two stiffening parts are included to encapsulate the joint area and provide extra strength. There is no engraving of part numbers on the sheets, so you will need to refer to the parts maps that is included with the kit’s paperwork. All ply sheets are nice and flat with no visible warpage. Strip wood Two substantial bundles of strip wood are supplied, in 500mm lengths. One bundle contains the lime planking material for the first layer of planking. You are advised to cut these so as to maximise the material usage during planking. All of this is hidden, or course, but you still need a good solid base to work from. A length of brass wire is tucked in there too for later use. A second bundle of the same length contains both strip, and dowel for the masts, yards and bowsprit etc in ramin, and beech for strip and basswood for dowel. You will also see the material for the second planking, and also for deck planking etc. Some of this timber is dark on the end cut, presumably through the machining process. As before, all timber is excellent quality with no fluffy edges or defects to be seen. More ply parts A pack of smaller, CNC-cut birch ply parts is included. Here you will find cannon carriage and wheels, channels, etc. Parts are nicely machined, but some clean-up will be required to remove any fluffy edges from the CNC cutting process. There are also another two packs of thin ply parts. One of these contains the poop and forecastle decks, stern décor trim and parts for the tops. The other pack holds parts exclusively for the three launches, namely the internals, rudders and oars. These are very thin ply and the internals in my kit had broken in almost the same place on the rear third of the part. These are repairable though. These parts will also need some clean-up before they can be used. I think if the ply grain had run the other way, they would perhaps have not broken. Components tray #1 Two blown plastic trays of parts are included in this kit. The first one contains a whole range of detail parts in various materials. Here you will find copper chain, deck grating comb set, boxwood ladder sets, 3D-printed Aris figurehead, hull mounting pedestals (no base included), boxwood capstan, rudder pintles, cast ship’s wheel, three launch boats etc. The latter are realistically thin and made from cream coloured resin. These will need a gentle wash in some soapy water to remove any mould release agents that may be lingering on their surfaces (although mine look very clean). There is a casting block on the lower keel, and this will need to be gently sawn away and cleaned up. This is standard practice for resin. As always, wear a mask when sanding resin parts. The 3D-printed figurehead, created by scanning the surviving one from the real ship, has a series of connection points what will need to be trimmed off and cleaned up. Again, this is normal for such parts. Components tray #2 Another plastic tray chock-full of detail goodies for your model. In here we have numerous packets of rigging blocks and various sized deadeyes with chain plates, launch davits, steel pins for first planking (remember to remove these before sanding!), brass belaying pins (casting point needs removing), turned brass cannon x 16, anchor set with wooden stocks and metal hoops, parral beads, metal cleats, copper eyelets, ships bell etc. Rigging block quality is very good and the drilled holes are nice and clean. Rigging A single pack of rigging cord is included, consisting of two natural threads, one bleached, and one black. These look high quality with no fuzziness present on my example. Flags Two flags are included, printed on paper. Printing quality is very good. You will need to possibly dampen these when assembled and form them into a natural sag that you would expect to see. Paperwork Several sheets of A4 paper are included, listing all of the kit parts by name and quantity included. More paper is supplied, forming the kit’s written instruction manual. No photos are given here, but they are unnecessary anyway as all illustration regarding assembly details, are supplied on the plan set. The English is clear and easy to understand. Plans SIX sheets of plans are included, printed at 1:1 so you can take measurements straight from them. Sheet 1 shows two profiles of the hull in profile form, depicting skeletal structure and illustrations showing the double-plank nature of the hull. Measurements are also supplied for gun port spacings etc. A very clear, easy to understand drawing. Sheet 2 shows the model in plan elevation with a montage of small illustrations depicting construction and details. Easy part number reference is supplied for various fittings. Sheet 3 & 4 concern the construction of the masts and bowsprit Sheet 5 illustrates yard construction and some elements of rigging, whilst the last sheet is purely for rigging. Conclusion This is an ambitious project for Navarino Models and is the first fighting ship of this period that they now have on their catalogue. For a Greek, and a ship enthusiast, it was a subject that Navarino’s owner, Babis, simply couldn’t ignore, and he’s done a wonderful job of recreating it in 1:50 for us. The whole package is a delight to see, from the quite extravagant but unique packaging, through to the use of the more expensive birch play for parts. Strip wood is also high quality and the fittings are well above average too. The only small niggle for me is perhaps the use of ply on the gun carts and channels, instead of solid wood, and the timber boats parts need some clean up. It’s by no means a deal breaker at all though as this is a well thought out release of a subject that I’ve never seen in kit form before. This is a bonny brig and quite a size when built too. If either historically significant vessels or Mediterranean ships are your thing, then give this kit a look over! Definitely a very different subject to tackle. My sincere thanks to Navarino Models for the kit you see reviewed here for Model Ship World. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article.
  4. I started this build waaaay back in 2013 after I finished my Triton cross section, but really didn't want to start a build log until I had some substantial progress done (I'm a really slow builder). I was also lofting my own frames and lived in perpetual fear up until recently that I made some mistake that would only become apparent when I started fairing the hull and would end in the ruin of my build. I figured having a multipage build log when that happened would make it that much harder to recover my confidence. Well, I got past that point and it turns out my drawings worked, so a slow day at work seemed like a good time as any to start a log. So- the Eagle... built on Lake Champlain in 1814 in 19 days (the irony of spending nearly six years making a model of a ship built in 19 days is not lost on me) to help Thomas Macdonough's fleet stop the British from taking control of the lake and essentially cut New England off from the rest of the country. He succeeded at the battle of Plattsburgh, helping keep the British from having any claims for territory in the Treaty of Ghent. After her long, illustrious career of a few months she was laid up in ordinary where she lasted about as long as you would expect a ship of such quality as that of one built in 19 days would last. The wreck sat on the bottom of the Poultney River until 1981 when it was rediscovered and the archaeological study started by the great people of the Texas A&M Nautical Archaeology program (a career choice I found out about 20 years too late in life). I started the model using the book done on the study (and one worth every penny if the subject interests you), The Eagle: An American Brig on Lake Champlain during the War of 1812, and Gen Bodnar's practicum for the Eagle found on modelshipbuilder.com. The practicum was invaluable for lofting frames and giving some direction on order of building but I have pretty much moved away from it at this point. I've probably used roughly a billion other references at this point but here's a couple that have been in heavy rotation.. Robnbill's build log of the Eagle- Bill did a great job of documenting things. When I don't feel like reinventing the wheel I like to check in with his log Coffins of the Brave: lake Shipwrecks of the War of 1812- some updated info on the eagle and have gleaned some building practices of the time from it. Excellent read. The Texas A&M ship model laboratory model of the Jefferson- not the same builder but helped me wrap my head around drawing up a stern. Also, just a really nice model. So anyway, that's some backstory. I don't want to make a "how-to" log like I did with my cross section and plan to just keep it picture heavy. If there's any questions feel free to ask and I'll happily answer. A few photos to cover the first five and a half years... Starting with the plans. Frames, deadwood, etc... I tried to work off my primary source, The Eagle: An American Brig on Lake Champlain (from here on out "The Eagle book") as much as possible and make this model as accurate as possible. Drawing everything was a job and learning experience in itself. Keel laid. Model to be made from pear, ebony, and maple Frames started going up. The pear will be finished in Danish oil, so I had done the keel, deadwood and the sides of the frames as i went along to save having to go in between every frame later on. ..and this is the point where life outside of modeling took over for a few years. I have two little ones that I spend tons of time doing stuff with, and also moved to a house that required some attention to drag it out of the 70's. Framing moved along slowly and I wanted to put a nice stern together, which took some research (the stem and stern of the wreck were pretty much gone). Fast forward to a few months ago and inside and out are faired. The Eagle's frames were all over the place and I used those locations for the model, which is why a keen observer may think I was drunk while lofting frames. Work has progressed a bit farther, but it's about high time to break out the real camera and retire the iphone for this build log. Chad
  5. Once I saw the end approaching to my USS Constitution build I started looking for my next project. I was looking for something that would hook my interest in both the construction as well as the history. I wanted something challenging that would also push my skills. I found and downloaded Gene Bodnar’s Practicum on the USS Brig Eagle. This is a plank on Frame Admiralty build that can be fully rigged or left unrigged in Admiralty style. The Eagle was built at Vergennes, Vermont between July 23rd and August 11th of 1814 by shipwright Adam Brown. An amazing feat in itself when you consider it generally took many months to build a ship of this size and the shipbuilders who built this ship did it in only 19 days. But time was of the essence. The wreck of the ship was found in the freshwater mud off Lake Champlain and fully documented in the dissertation. It was a built in 19 days for the war of 1812 and was responsible in large part for the defeat of the British fleet in the Battle of Plattsburg Bay. However it was built of green wood and began to rot almost as soon as it was completed. After the war it was stripped and mothballed and eventually sunk where she was mothballed. The practicum is a detailed instruction for taking the basic ship's plans and working through the lofting process to the completed build. This modeling project at 1/4" = 1' scale is based on a Masters Thesis and plans by Professor Kevin J Crisman of Texas A & M University. Here are some brief notes on the Eagle from the Texas A&M Nautical Archaeology Program site. The United States Navy brig Eagle was built at Vergennes, Vermont, and constituted the final addition to Commodore Thomas Macdonough's War of 1812 naval squadron on Lake Champlain. The 117-foot-long hull was constructed and launched by master shipwright Adam Brown in only 19 days during the summer 1814. Outfitted with two masts and 20 cannon, and manned by a crew of 150 men, the brig participated in Macdonough's defeat of an invading British naval fleet at the Battle of Plattsburgh Bay. The Eagle was maintained for several years after the war, until her timbers became decayed and she was abandoned by the Navy in 1825. The submerged and partially-dismembered wreck of the Eagle was discovered in 1981 near Whitehall, New York. A two-year archaeological study of the vessel was sponsored by the Champlain Maritime Society, during which time the dimensions of the hull timbers were documented by divers. Archival research was also conducted on the history of the warship. Wreck plans were prepared from the measurements recorded by the divers, and the techniques of hull construction employed by Adam Brown were examined. The wreck plans and contemporary construction information were then used to reconstruct the original appearance of the brig. The design and assembly of the Eagle were graphically depicted in the form of hull lines, construction plans, and rigging plans. The hull of the brig was compared to other War of 1812 warships on the oceans, and on Lakes Erie, Ontario, and Champlain. The evaluation of the hull and the comparison with contemporary vessels have led to the conclusion that the Eagle was specially designed for accelerated construction and a career on the shallow, protected waters of Lake Champlain. This is attractive because it will be a challenge that will require lofting my own plans as well as building my first Plank on Frame ship. It is also supported by a detailed practicum as well as the extensive dissertation. While it is being built by a small number of modelers on Model Ship Builder, Gene Bodnar, the developer of the practicum is very active on the boards. Fully rigged the ship’s dimensions will be: L = 45" H = 31 1/4" W = 6 1/2" Here is a photo from the practicum.
  6. Well, since going back to school a couple of years ago, I've had to put my modeling on hold. I have been lurking on the site from time to time however, which has been a nice respite from my studies. Now that school is starting to wind down, I'm able to lurk a little more, and can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I've decided to re-build my log from the pre-crash era, even though I won't be able to perform any solid modeling for a while yet; just having the log back up will be immensely satisfying. I'm going to try and post relevant pics in a sequential order, and any pics which seem like they might be of help to others. Enjoy, and feel free to leave any comments or suggestions. I am going to be very rusty once I start her again, and will probably need guidance in order to make sure I don't mistakenly wander down the wrong path! Alan
  7. After a month of work on my new project it's at the stage where I suspect it might turn into something worth continuing so here it is... A Cruizer class brig in 1:36 scale which is (hopefully) destined to be a working RC square rigged sailer. I've kicked this project off before finishing the rigging on my current Granado build after seeing a few build logs and being filled with inspiration and a reckless confidence to simply have a go. It's a good vessel to practice on as it's relatively simple with flush decks, only two masts and little decoration. I can experiment with the rc servos, ballast keel and sail operation once the hull and masts are done and if it works then move on to the nice to have items like head rails, carronades and deck fittings. The cruizer was a possibility for my next scratch build originally planned at 1/64 but I'd helped my father build the 1:20 scale Valdivia schooner kit from Robbe a few years back and being so taken with sailing it that I wanted one of my own. I'd love a 1:24 scale RC Surprise or cruizer from Steel Chapman and Hutchinson Ltd http://www.modelsailingships.com/ships/grasshopper.html But it's out of my price range once freight etc is taken into account, hence an effort to scratch build, especially after seeing the very informative logs from Jerry Todd for his Macedonian, Constitution and others. 1:36 was chosen as it's large enough to look the part and have some sailing ability and be easily managed with a length of 84cm on the gun deck. If successful with the brig the ultimate goal is a frigate and at 1:36 scale a large vessel like an Artois class frigate of 146 feet on the gun deck would be just manageable for transport and launch at roughly 120cm. But that's pretty optimistic at this stage and I've got a lot to learn yet. The plans for this vessel are those included in EW Petrejus' fine book 'modelling the brig of war Irene' scaled up with bulkhead widths and deadwood for building purposes etc drawn in. Using relatively cheap materials was a must for this project as there's still an element of doubt over if it will work. If it doesn't I don't want to feel like it's been a huge investment that fails. As such the brig will be built from 9mm plywood for the framing with the keel and planking from matai - a New Zealand native timber which is moderately hard enough to hold detail at this scale while still easy to work and has a nice tone although the brig will be painted anyway. The matai is in the form of old tongue and groove floorboards from a demolition yard that are going for about $6/metre for short lengths that are pretty much unusable for anything else. I can mill these on my table saw and with a home built thickness sander. The hull will be built upside down on a building board for stability and will be cut loose once planked. A base line parallel to the keel a few cms above the max height of the sheer line was drawn on the plans to provide a point from which to measure from. All the bulkheads were drawn with this line as a top (or bottom once upside down on the board) square edge to ensure they would all sit at the correct height from the board and provide a level run for the keel to attach to. A test run of bulkheads on the board. To avoid installing deck beams later these were drawn onto the bulkheads using the camber indicated in Petrejus. The bulkheads were then cut down to ribbing size. In hindsight I should have left the bulwarks above deck ticker to account for the reduction from subsequent sanding but it's nothing major. Most of the framing on the build board here. The keel and stem is matai ripped on a bandsaw and run through my drill powere thickness sander (thanks to MSW member Snowmans for his fine instructions on making one) down to 9mm. The stem was then cut in one piece on the bandsaw and gammoning and bob stay holes/slots drilled.
  8. Hello! It's been a long time since i posted the last time. Actually it was in the old fórum. In these last years i'm been building the lougre Le Coureur. It has been my first Arsenal model, so it took a lot of mistakes, and time to figure out how to keep doing it. One of the first "issues" to resolve was the clinker built planking, wich it came out how you see it in the pictures. Then, every step was taken very carefully, triyng to keep as "arsenal" as posible. I even had to remove the white paint on the hull, because i didn't like the effect achieved. Fortunatly, the Boudriot gives every explenation of what you need, and thanks to Mr. Delacroix, and the guys on his fórum, i could find a lot of answers too. And of course here too! That's why i'm presenting you this model, wich some of you may remember from the old fórum, and for those that are knowing it for the first time, i hope you like it. Today my LC it is about to get finished, so i post picutres in chronological order to undrstand how the construction was made. And i'll be happy to keep you informed, if you are interested of course, of the finishing of this project. I hope you join my adventure! So, pictures......
  9. A few years ago I purchased from A.N.C.R.E. the research monograph written by Jean Boudriot and Hubert Berti about the "Brick de 24" Le Cygne. The underlying idea was to start an experience in admiralty style (or POF), starting with a simpler sailing ship such as a "brick" (French) or "brig" (English). The brig is a sailing vessel with two masts, foremast and mainmast, with a single gun deck and generally armed with 18-20 guns or carronades. Initially, there were traditional guns of 6-8 pdrs, then the armament evolved using 24 pdrs carronades while maintaining a couple of long guns for shooting during hunting. During the period of the wars between England and France, the Revolutionary Wars first and then the Napoleonic Wars, a large number of these sailing ships were built on projects belonging to three/four french engineers (Pestel, Sanè, Forfait, etc.) and builts in several replicas in various French, Dutch and Italian shipyards. The monograph about Le Cygne proposes a model of brick designed by the french engineer Francois Pestel and was reproduced twenty times plus two additional ships faithfully reproduced by Sanè, for a total of twenty-two historically established ships. Upon receipt of the monograph I noticed, however, that the plans were not useful to build a "Plank On Frame" model as the drawings in the monograph didn't show the frame layouts, so my attention veered out of other ideas. Recently I finished the building of the Soleil Royal and I found myself to decide on which to build a new model. After some researches I took back the monograph of Le Cygne and I carefully re-read it. Immediately, I was very intrigued by the fact that almost all of these brick had a very short lifetime in the French Navy and the monograph itself was unclear, in a table list, specifying only the year of "radiation". At the beginning I thought about some structural defects that made them short-living, although the same was also true for other bricks designed by French engineers. Then, going deeper, I discovered the truth, hidden in the monograph of Boudriot / Berti probably from the usual and by now well-known "french chauvinism". In short: of the 22 "Brick de 24" designed by Pestel, 18 were captured by the Royal Navy, 2 were transferred to the Italian navy and 2 have gone missing, coincidentally the year that were struck off in the table is the same the ship was commissioned in the Royal Navy, participating with great success in the war against Napoleon. So, ironically, the French Navy seems to have been the major supplier of brigs for the Royal Navy !!! Hence the idea to complete the historical research in relation to the British viewpoint in order to have a complete picture of the operational life of these ships. Consequently, I have identified a number of these brick in service in the Royal Navy, sometimes with similar names and sometimes totally different, and I decided to build one, although at the moment I do not know exactly which. According to the monograph, the only distinguishing features were the figurehead and bottles aft .. and, obviously, the armament. The story continues in the next message which will follow shortly. . Yours sincerely, Jack.Aubrey.
  10. Hi all this is the opening of my shipyard for building this little ship. Well... maybe little in the real world, because due to the scale the complete model will be longer than 1 meter, so quite huge for normal standards (I mean the standard size of Italian houses). An explanation about the title of this topic: ‘Brick de 24’ is the name of a class of ships, brigs type, whose main weapons were 24pdr carronades, in the number of 14. Other weapons were two 6pdr long guns. They were designed (most of them) by the master designer Pestel and built between 1806 and 1813. Many more information can be read here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7795-brick-de-24-by-jackaubrey-148-scale/#entry231121 in the topic of my good friend, and co-builder, Jack Aubrey. The ship plans are available in the excellent monography “Le Cygne” issued by Ancre, including 19 sheets of 1:48 scale detailed drawings and plans. This will be a joint construction: JA started before, and completed the most difficult job of transferring the Ancre plans to AutoCAD. I assisted at the starting of his project and was really impressed by the beauty of this ship: I already had lot of pictures of Le Cygne and Le Cyclope (another ship of the same class) in my database, and have always looked at them as a possibility for the future. So when JA started the possible future become the present, and I contacted him to ask if I could joint his project. So, before anything else, I have to say THANK YOU SO MUCH to my friend Sergio for allowing me to join him in the project and for providing me, for free, the CAD plans to start with my model. My copy of the monography has been shipped and is on the way, but unfortunately I’ll have to wait for it until the end of this month. As JA explained, we decided to build a different shipmodel with respect to those already existing, namely Le Cygne, Le Cyclope, Le Cureiux and L’Esperance. More, JA decided (or initially thought about) to show her after it was seized by the Royal Navy and re-commissioned for active service with the British, so with some modification to the original Ancre plans. I’ve not decided yet what to do, but I will probably stick to the French configuration making good use of the excellent Ancre plans. Which ship? We had a long discussion about this item, and I told Sergio that I will leave to him the priority of choice among the names that he elected as preferred. Therefore I will decide after him, but the rose of candidates is restricted among: - Le Nisus (1805), seized in 1809 (--> HMS Guadeloupe) - Le Milan (1806), seized in 1809 (--> HMS Achates) - Le Phaéton (1806), seized in 1806 (--> HMS Mignonne) - Le Colibri (1809), seized in 1809 (--> HMS Colibrì) The figurehead will be fictious, as no information exists for these ships, but obviously based on the name of the ship. I will find in internet some beautiful picture of that birds and do my best to get a decently carved figurehead. The model The size is quite large, according to Ancre website it will be 74cm long (the hull, 116cm fully rigged), 17cm wide (52cm rigged) and 17cm high (86cm tall fully rigged). The wood will be... ehm ... well, whatever I manage to find. I mean, it’s quite difficult here in Italy to find sources of good wood for modelling at acceptable prices. I have some pearwood available, some other is seasoning, will use poplar plywood for the hull structure, probably limewood for the deck, a reddish variant of pinewood for the bulwarks, yet don’t know what for the hull planking (well, the hull is coppered so probably it is not important). The model will be POB type. After this long presentation... October 19th, 2014 Grand opening of the shipyard, the first sawdust is produced... My best regards Fam
  11. I am looking specifically at an attempted historically accurate Royal Navy brig, circa 1783, which means no main yard or square main course; just a cross jack and a fore-and-aft main staystail. All of the references I have found except one say or show that the main preventer/spring stay goes below the main stay. Marquardt states it can be above or below. If the main preventer stay is below the main stay, it means (1) that when I hang my main staysail it must be to one side of the preventer stay, limiting its utility without rehanging, unless I put it on its own stay, and (2) any hanging tackles used to move boats, etc, that hang from the main stay will rub into the preventer stay. Petreus' book about the Cruizer Class Brig Irene shows this conventional rigging but she is a bigger ship at a later time period with a square main course and no fore-and-aft main staysail. Why is the main preventer stay rigged below the main stay? Should I just rely on the short blip in Marquardt and put it below on my period rig? TYVM in advance.
  12. Hello everybody! I finished 3D model rigging of the brig Mercury. Only rigging and sails
  13. I finished this model four years ago and I have had some trouble finding the photo documentation since I had a computer die on me and files were all over. Likely I will add more as I find them. This is a scratch built solid basswood hull model of a fictional ship based on the actual brig H.M.S. Speedy made famous by Lord Cochrane and fictionalized by Patrick O’Brian. Drawings were found on the web and the novel itself gives a great deal of useful information including measurements.
  14. Attaching photos of the beginning of restoration that was built by my late husband and damaged in storage. I'm a complete novice at this - just becoming familiar with the vocabulary has been an education. I don't know how to tie a neat knot or keep from using too much glue. The photos are of my "workshop" also known as my dining room table, the leftovers Roger left from his ship-building days, parts that are broken that I need to replace, either by carving them myself or finding them online. I have found some, but am not sure of the size or whether or not they are appropriate. So here I go - wish me luck. Betty
  15. Hi to all. I’m Dan Rizoli from Tirgu Mures, Romania. I can finally return to the hobby from a long break. Was in the group who started Chucks Model Syren 1:64 as a free project on old site. I will try to remake the build log from march 2008 to february 2009, and continue with this project. The Bulkhead Former, Bulkheads, Rabbet,Keel, Stem Knee Gun Ports, Sweep Ports Hull Planking and Treenailing Deck Planking and Treenailing
  16. I will be attempting to re-construct this log over the next few weeks. A picture of me (in the middle) while working as a volunteer sailor on the Niagara, with the decedents of Oliver Hazard Perry.
  17. Some of the recuperated photos from my "Syren" build....... A lot are gone for ever but I wil see what I can find,and take some new pics about the rigging........
  18. Herewith begins my first extended journey into the esoteric art of developing a set of rigging plans pretty much from scratch. On the MSB forum there is an ongoing project to develop plans and build a prototype of the British brig General Hunter (referred to hereafter as the GH). I have, perhaps naively, agreed to tackle the development of a rigging plan for the model. I enjoy a challenge, and particularly enjoy research and analysis, as well as the whole concept of understanding the masting and rigging of a ship is, to me, highly fascinating, so here I go. What I intend to do, since this is research and development rather than actually building the vessel, is to document my research process and decisions here in the same manner as a build log, but likely with fewer pictures. At least, few that represent the output (or input) of spars on a model. I would like this to be a contributory endeavor - please feel free to interject suggestions, ideas, recommendations, or other critical analysis of the process and results. My goal is a set of plans that is representative of the type of rig that the GH may have carried, realizing that the 100% benchmark is not attainable. I will be drawing heavily on research already conducted by Daves, Winston and several others at MSB, as well as information in a set of unpublished manuscripts by Joshua Humphreys and his son from the Pennsylvania Historical Society (transcription from handwritten ye' Olde English into searchable documents is currently well underway by a team at MSB), and archival information both by the archeological team that is excavating and studying the wreck as well as by others such as Stevens of Parks Canada. At some point, may even be touching on Australia and other regions as well - hint hint!). Upcoming topics include (but are by no means limited to) the following: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND Current Knowledge related to the GH Pictorial Analogs and Similar Vessels Dimensions of Masts Dimensions of Yards Furnishing the yards So, pull up a seat, grab some popcorn (I think Sjors was bringing it) and hang on for what could be a fun journey into the Great Lakes and 1812! Best wishes - Wayne

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