Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'card'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for Ship Model Kits - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for Scratch Builds - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Shore Leave
  • Medway Longboat Group Project's Medway Longboat Build Logs
  • Medway Longboat Group Project's Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Longboat Group Project's General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


NRG Membership Number

Found 43 results

  1. Hello friends, this is continuation of the journey that begun here: After the initial try with the paper kit I came to the conclusion to build from scratch, so I continue my Gokstad ship build in this forum section. I am sorting out and comparing plans and measurement from Werner Dammann book "Das Gokstadschiff und seine Boote" and from Nicolaysen book "The Viking Ship Discovered at Gokstad in Norway". There is lots of differences so I decided to start with measurements given in numbers and then tweak the drawn plans to fit those numbers. I do it all in 3D software. I have started to plot the curves based on the plans. They will be tweaked later to match the numbers.
  2. I bought the Harold Hahn book, “The Colonial Schooner” a while back. This is an excellent book. It has the plans for the Hannah and a couple other schooners. Harold Hahn built his models in an admiralty style. I’m not that good. I like to build plank on bulkhead. However, the book has hull lines and where there are hull lines, there can be bulkheads easily made. I have discovered that card works beautifully for me. So I am starting with this: and turning it into this: The picture is from the US Navy’s History and Heritage Command. I chose the Hannah because I would like to make a relatively quick build. Schooners have very easy to make rigs and are relatively simple to make. The Hannah has a very simplistic design with a simple head and no decorations at all. She will make a nice change of pace from the Victory. I am building in 1/72 scale because it is a very convenient scale that is large enough to get as detailed as you want without having to work at super small scale. It will also match the Prince de Neufchatel’s scale.
  3. Started the model today. Think it’s going to be a learning curve to get it right or just looking ok, never done a card model before hope to getting experience to start a big one later on. Any tips or help would be helpful.
  4. I have been working on this for about a month. I had to stay home with my better half due to her scheduled minor operation. So since i had nothing better to do apart from this, i cracked open a few cold ones, turned on my favorite stream and been cutting out, shaping and glueing this lovely little kit. Chosen for its lack of complicated rigging, only two cannons and easy lines of hull. I need a little practice before i jump back in to the deep end of my Victory build. And Santa leocadia, La belle poule, Lexington and tonne of the others that i have all around me. every square inch of my workshop is filled with unfinished projects... i dont think i need to introduce this ship to anybody. Its voyage across the pond have paved way to later discovery of future Ungratefull Colonies, South Americas, great civilizations and magnificient rain forests. All sorts of things. i have not been very good when taking pictures on every step of the journey, it was too quick to be honest. kit is printed on good quality card. Shine is high on some parts. I like it that way, so no complain from my side. I tried my luck with touching edges, mixing shades and stuff, to little effect. I stuck to one shade of brown with a little variations. Did work mostly, but as you will notice, flash is cruel. i have purchased laser cut details and set of frames to make my life easier. These are of great quality, although i would take a few of them off and replace them with different ones. Never mind, i managed to assemble every paper part available in the kit and am now stuck waiting for a set of masts and spars. Coming from Poland, for a hefty price of £25 p&p to UK included. Once received, i will crack on and finish this lovely little ship. I noticed how huge the pictures were. As i have done the post on the mobile, i had no idea. i shall redo this post as soon as i get a minute tomorrow.
  5. https://blog.agesofsail.com/2020/06/18/new-wooden-kits-from-shipyard/?fbclid=IwAR0BasyN-l8-cXKHOKbuLbj7MttBj8jqRximbt7eHD6jgr-Ty1pUzaERZlY
  6. A Dutch 17th century pleasure vessel Pleasure vessels’ penpainting by Willem van de Velde. Sailing with no other purpose than pleasure is probably of all ages. But it is a remarkable fact that the Dutch were the first people to design ship types especially for that single activity. Early in the 17th century in certain circles wealth grew so high that pleasure yachts appeared on the Dutch waters. Vessels especially designed for fun! The Amsterdam lord mayor Nicolaes Witsen presents a drawing in his book Aeloude en Hedendaegse Scheepsbouw en Bestier (Old and Modern Shipbuilding and Managing) from 1671, together with a simple specification contract. Witsen’s text Witsen’s drawing Over thirty years ago I was very interested in methods of shipbuilding and reading the old literature it gave me the conviction that the data in the contract for this relatively simple vessel were enough to do an experiment. There are no frames on Witsen’s drawing, but my theory was, that for building a ship shell-first, which was the method used in Holland at that time, a body plan was not necessary. In that system the builder starts with the hull planking before adding frame parts. I was quite confident that I could do that trick in model-scale and I wanted to record what I did to compare the results with another building method, partly frame-first, which was described by a second contemporary Dutch author, Cornelis van Yk in his book De Nederlandsche Scheepsbouwkonst Open Gestelt (Dutch Shipbuilding Unveiled) from 1697. Here the builder starts with some frames before planking. Nobody ever noticed that both writers described different methods of how to build a ship. For historians the texts are too technical, for professional shipbuilders they are too historical and no longer interesting within nowadays construction systems. I wanted not only to test both methods, I also wanted to show the difference for scientific purposes. Shell-first building method. Planking before frames. Another stage in shell-first building Frame-first building. Frames before planking. Splines help the builder to find the shape of the futtocks It took me several efforts to produce a model that could reasonably withstand the comparison with the few sources I had. Due to the fact that my camera repeatedly let me down I even had to go through the process three times, which taught me a precious lesson: building shell-first without plans, needs experience. The third time I built my model I did it in far less time and the shape of the model improved a lot. I ended up with giving a presentation about the two ways of construction at the International Symposium for Ship and Boat Archaeology in Amsterdam in 1988 and the immediate result was that I was offered a job in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam as head of the Restoration Department of Dutch History. This little pleasure vessel had changed my life forever. The finished model, built in 1988. Looking back at the impact of this model on my life I am surprized that I never cared to make a lines plan of this little yacht. As I am planning to give it a new try, this time in paper, I can finally correct this deficiency. Of course Rene Hendrickx, my faithful Belgian help in 3D constructions did me the favour of helping me out with his magical command of the free shipbuilding program Delftship. It all started with a free hand sketch, which I based on the specifications in Witsen’s book. Freehand sketch based on the specifications in Witsen’s book. Soon enough it became clear that working drawings of this vessel might bring a lot of pleasure to many ship model builders. Therefore we executed every part of the vessel in 3D, making it possible to make any kind of model, be it static, big, small, or even (with some improvisation by the builder) as a working radio-controlled variant. The rig is extremely easy to handle, with only sheets to control the sails and halliards for the leeboards, so it won’t cause any technical problem. But building radio-controlled vessels is not my trade. I am happy when I come off with a good-looking paper craft nowadays. Anyone interested in the draughts in pdf. or in dxf. can send me a PM and I will send the plans over for free as soon as they are ready. The scale I use for all my models is 1/77. For a 42-feet long vessel (11.89 m) that gives an overall length of 15,5 cm., which is a bit small for me and I chose a 1/44 scale for this project. These scales might look odd for anyone who does not know that the Amsterdam feet (28,3 cm) consisted of 11 inches (2,6 cm), so a 1/44 scale means that every inch at the model stands for 4 feet in real life, which gives a total length of 27 cm for the model. The old well known system of building (see my previous threads) has to be adapted in this case, because the deck in the middle of the vessel is extremely low, leaving a big part of the hull without sufficient support during building. So we have to think a bit more in advance and prepare both the longitudinal spine and some of the frames. Elevation view in Delftship, drawn by Rene Hendrickx Bodyplan in Delftship, drawn by Rene Hendrickx I did not make too many pictures. Partly because I forgot, partly because I have become a bit shy presenting the various stages of my efforts. Too many people show their progress here with unfinished models that look like a million bucks. Mine always look sloppy, with fluffy edges, stains and overlapping parts. I know that in the end they mostly show up quite well, but during construction I have the impression that the main reason why I go over to a next stage in building is to hide the mistakes I made in the previous ones. But anyone who is interested in my methods can find them in my tutorial about building with card in: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19467-fish-hooker-after-chapman-by-ab-hoving-finished-how-to-scratch-build-from-paper-card/ and threads like http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/35441-17th-century-dutch-fluit.html, http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/36353-another-17th-century-dutch-workhorse.htmland more on the Papermodelers forum. I have built in wood for most of my life and now I am getting old I go for the easy stuff, building in card. Once the hull has its shape I cover the outside with self-adhesive plastic foil. If a hair-dryer is used the strips can be bent in every possible shape. The rest is painting. I’ll keep you informed about my progress. First stage in building in card. The parts outside the compartments have been doubled. Ready to be covered with plastic strips The hull below the upper wale is covered and painted for the first time.
  7. I always have problems with the "frame" distorting the out paper shell, so I have resorted to various methods to "fill in" the gaps. This time I'm trying something new, paper mache. I tried the kind you mix from power, but that made the whole model soaking wet. Luckily it survived. So now I'm using a "plastic" paper mache, which seems to be working. It usually takes several passes of putting on a layer and letting it dry and then sanding it down, then putting on another layer to fill in the low spaces. You can see that my first take on the frames ended up with a noticeable "bulge" on one side.. so i made a copy of the deck and tack glued that one to guide in reshaping it to be a little more symetrical.
  8. Dear friends, At the end of the last year I was deciding, what a ship will be next. I put aside all my favorites ships, and try to find something, what I never built. Then I found some informations of the wreck of fluit, lying next to Dalaro - and I decided for this one. Simplified history: Anna Maria was built for consortium of 15 shipowners in Swenden for trading route to Portugal and back, trading iron, copper and wooden planks from north and salt and wine from Portugal. In the winter 1708 / 1709 the ship stayed locked in ice in Dalaro. The crew was sent home except 5 sailors, who had guard the vessel. At the evening of 6 th february, after supper, the crew left the ship, and very soon she catch the fire and sunk under the ice. Shipwreck was found and identified by amateur divers in 60´ts. I found plans on russian webpages, they were created by Cor Emke, Bussum Netherland. Dimensions are in Amsterdam feets, so it was very easy to transform it to 1:96 scale. I will using all my technologies as always. I started the build in march of this year, but I didn´t have time to publicate on several forums. As 1st step, as always, I transform hull lines to 3d, create holes for strenghtening and strengh the frame by wooden bars. As you can see, I had to create two ribs which aren´t included in plans. Next pics showing frame with horizontal ribs and decks.
  9. Hello everyone, a few years ago, I finished my most beautiful ship - Sovereign of the Seas and I wished to find another similarly beautiful sailing ship which I would be able to build. There are plenty of glorious boats, but only for a few of them there are avalialbe good plans and exact information. I decided to create and build a card model of Royal Katherine from 1664. I do not have exact plans so I will proceed according to other plans of ships from 17th century - HMS Sussex and HMS Prince and use information from professional literature as well. I like great challenges and connection of fun and education, so I am looking forward to this project very much. The model will be created in the scale of 1/55, so there is an oportunity to create many details in a higher level of quality. During creation of previous models I have received many valuable and professional information about sailing ships, their construction and fitting from one of the greatest experts - Captain K.L. who has taught me a lot and I will also use his advice here. The main build log you can find here: http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763
  10. Hi friends, I have finaly decided to build Gokstad viking ship because I always wanted to build viking ship. Basic info about the ship can be foun here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gokstad_ship I used beautiful paper model kit from poland publisher WAK in 1:72 scale as a base for the build and upscaled it to 1:48 scale. Original build of the kit from its designer loks like this: Kit is used basicly as a plan. I am altering thickness of the parts according actual ship. I will be sanding some parts and repainting the whole ship (since I will modify the kit I do not know if I choose right forum category to start the thread, hopefuly yes). Main source of information is this book - Das Gokstadschiff und seine Boote by Werner Dammann . It is full of information about the ship construction including thickness and type of used material. Here are some preliminary tests to find suitable colours. Frame went together nicely according the instructions: I am painting each plank white, separately. Brush strokes are also part of the proces to make the effect of wood texture. I do the carvings on the plank. Then the plank is attached to the hull.
  11. Hello dear friends , in summer 2012 I have started a scratch build of HMY Royal Caroline 1749 in a scale 1/40. The model is made of card (mainly) and other materials (modeling clay, wood, self-adhesive foils etc.). I will proceed according to plans from the book Anatomy of the ship, which are quite detailed and nicely designed. Other documents and information come from foreign literature, which describes construction, fitting and rigging of ships from this period. Because I want to build a realistic model of the RC as possible, I will be grateful for any comments and suggestions, which could help me to achieve that result. I chose Royal Caroline mainly for her sleek lines and beautiful sculptural decoration, and also because finally I will not have to make so many cannons as on the previous models.... One of the most realistic painting of HMY Royal Caroline and peregrine (second picture) by John Cleveley The Elder Full report of my work is here: http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=68385#p1324089 For sailing ships lovers - here is a video with my best sailing ships; HMS Bellona and HMS Victory (modified) come from polish manufacturer Shipyard, Sovereign of the seas is my own scratch build. All these models are made of card. Enjoy it: Kind regards, Doris
  12. After finishing my model of Axeldijk, I start a new card-model by the Dutch firm Scaldis. It is a 1:250 model of the light cruiser Hr.Ms. De Ruyter. (The model is designed bythe polishfirm JSC). The ship measured 170 meters, sothemodel is just under80 centimeters long. De Ruyter was a ship designed inthe same period as the Dutch cruisers Java and Sumatra: early thirties. I rhink they have an appealing design: long, sleek lines. Hoever, for their purpose, they were a bit outdatedalready at their launch: their armamanet being 7 15cm guns, and a number of machine guns for anti aircraft protection. She also had to Fokker biplanes on board. het warrime crew was 470 men. The ship had an armour belt at the waterline, but that alos was more basedshipdesign inthe interbellum than a match to the modern ships of the early forties. She was the flagship of the combined fleet inthe Java-sea, and went down in that battle in 1942, on februari 27th. The basic design of the hull is comparable to that of many scaldis-models: a triangular guirder that acts as the backbone of the model, the frames are slotted on this beam, deck glued on top, andnext the hull (in threepieces) attached. I will glue a sepearte 160grams sheet under the decks, as with Axeldijk I discovered that the deck remains a bit wobbly, and tends to curve in unexpected (and unwanted) places, resulting in deck-houses not being vertical.... I don't actually like this construcion: it is rather sturdy,but any dolding or gluing errors in that triangular part willend up in a skewed hull (and there is no way ofcorrecting that skewedness). There are some buildlogs of DeRuyter around, but almost none of them reaches the end. I wonder why..... Jan
  13. Hi. I would like to present you my current build - Allege d'Arles published by WAK in Poland. Card kit was designed by Tomasz Weremko who is lurking on this forum under the name of 0Seahorse. I made quite a few card kits in my teenage years, but this is my second ever build of sailing ship (first being Koga Elbląska). I hope you will find this build interesting and that we can learn something new together. According to short brief in kit, Allege d'Alres where small, 25 - 30 meters long merchant vessels used near Rhone estuary on the Mediterranean coast of France. Cover of the kit: Hull frame: More to follow.
  14. I have recently purchased the HMS Wolf, a Shipyard paper model, from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK, I also purchased the extra sails and masts sets but was reticent to splash out on the laser cut blocks, however after receiving the model and seeing the size of the parts, each just a few mm and all containing multiple parts I have decided to save my eyes and will place an order for these as well. I was considering purchasing laser cut timber blocks however it seems an extravagance for a simple card model. However I may purchase wooden gun carriages and associated brass guns depending on how I go with cutting and assembling the card parts and the model generally. I have only one complaint in that there was a couple of pages of assembly instructions missing from the kit. I am really hoping that Cornwall are able to convince Shipyard to email me a pdf of the missing pages. Hopefully, as its assembly details and not parts details that are missing there will not be any issues. I will email Cornwall tomorrow. The beauty of this card model is the skeleton is laser cut. I have recently been struggling with cutting and assembling the skeleton for the RMS Mauretania and I find it very time consuming. I have been on that build for several months and have still not progressed beyond the skeleton! Following Dan's lead I have been busy cataloguing all the parts into a spreadsheet with part numbers, page numbers, thickness of any laminations, names of the parts/ assemblies and any relevant comments and then cross references to assembly pages. Anyway here are few some photographs of the kit - The cover, and example assembly and parts pages. Note there is only one colour page of assembly details the rest are black and white. Other than the rigging details all assembly detail is by photograph (no words). A close up of some of double blocks parts as you may be able to discern in this example each block contains 7 parts all of which need to be laminated to either 0.25mm or 0.50mm card. The length of the block in this example is just a few mm. An extract of the assembly instructions for the blocks in question. The assembled skeleton - the majority of the skeleton has been assembled - I think it took less than 15 minutes to dry fit it. I really must say the quality of the laser cut card is absolutely top drawer.
  15. F.H. af Chapman (1721-1808) was a brilliant 18th-century shipbuilder working as a manager for the Swedish Karlskrona navy shipyard. He ended his study in England under Thomas Simpson with a tour around English, French and Dutch shipyards. There he draughted many ships on the stocks and in 1768 he published his Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, in which he presented his drawings, all accompanied by his calculations of draught, stability, center of gravity and more sort like scientific data. On plate LIX we find (amongst others) the lines of a 64½ feet long fish-hooker, a type that has been in use in Holland for several ages. If you don’t have the book, you can find it on the digitalmuseum site of the Sjohistorical Museet, right here: Digital Museum. You can download the drawing, which is the penultimate one on the page. I will tell more about the ship type later, first I will say some things about building in paper and card. For many years I have professionally build wooden ship models, as a method of research. Nowadays I have thrown off the burden of science and concentrate on models that look like real ships. I know we all have our own philosophy about what a model should look like and what it should stand for, but what I try to achieve is a certain degree of realism. Not by duplicating every nail or piece of rope that was there in the real thing, but by creating an impression of the vessel as it sailed in its days. It is more about atmosphere than accurateness. I won’t try to convince you that what I do is the only way to build here, on the contrary, I just tell you what I do for fun and who knows it may inspire you one day to give it a try. The fact that my son Emiel uses my models to create wonderful ‘photoshop-paintings’ has of course been a factor in the decisions I made. Not only did I leave strictly realistic constructions on scale behind, I also chose for a rather unusual material that makes building a lot easier and faster for the model maker than wood does: Paper and card. You might call what I do ‘model-building-light version’. Don’t think I consider my builds examples of how things should look or be done. I have spotted many members on this forum who are a lot better builders than I am, but hey, this is all about fun and not much else. Easy building with easy results. About paper One of the many advantages of building in paper is that it is incredibly cheap. I am Dutch, so I will not dwell on that too much. If you have purchased paper kits you know they are usually not the most expensive way to spend your money compared to wooden kits, but scratch-built paper models don’t cost you anything, except for some paper, glue and paint. Even my largest models never cost me more than a few Euros. So if half underway you think you failed your mission and you decide to abandon ship, make a run for the dustbin and start anew. All you wasted is time and as a model builder you have plenty of that, don’t you? Otherwise you would have spent your precious time on more useful things… Another advantage of paper is the speed you can work with. Some of my models were made within three weeks, although I must admit that the Lenox model took me 5 months. Still an incredible short time for such a complicated ship and in no relation to what it would have taken if executed in wood. A last positive point I would like to emphasize is the mess you make, or actually you don’t make. After working on the model you can simply clear the table and your wife is as happy as before. No wood-dust, no shavings, just some paper snippets to be moved into the dustbin. Everybody happy…. Plans Especially for people who are used to buying kits, it might be useful to explain how an original plan can be used. Looking at the Chapman drawing we see there are several ships on the sheet. We just need the upper part, where we see an elevation (or side view) of the hooker with a body plan and a section to the left. There is also a top view underneath which we will use later when some deck-details have to be filled in. 1. The first thing we have to establish is the scale. I work with a 1/77 scale because it fits me, but you can pick any scale you want. The length of the vessel is 65 ½ feet, which is 18.25 meters in Amsterdam feet (28.3 cm). On a 1/77 scale that is 23.7 cm for my model. Print the drawing, measure the length, calculate the percentage you need to get the size for your model and print again. 2. Now we can cut out the shape of the side view and paste it to a 1 mm thick piece of card. Lets call this longitudinal part the ‘spine’. Use so-called eskaboard or gray-board, a solid sort of card, used for making sturdy boxes. You can use old boxes, but your art supplier sells it in different sizes and it is not expensive. (in fact I use 1.3 mm thick card, but it depends on what you can find) Use glue from a spray-can, to make sure the paper sticks to the card at all places. Don’t take the top of the bulwarks as the upper side of your spine, choose the line of the deck instead, it is visible on the drawing. Draw your topline one millimeter lower than what the plan says, because your deck will have some thickness and you don’t want to end up with a deck that comes too high. Don’t forget to make cuts for the masts. 3. Next double your keel, stem and stern on both sides with the same type of card, so that you get a rabbet. 4. Now we need the body plan. What we see on the drawing is the shape of the ship seen from fore on the right side and from aft on the left side. Make three copies and cut one of them in halves over the centerline. Hold one half drawing upside down against a windowpane or lay it on a light box and take over the lines on the backside. Now paste the half body plan precisely next to its counterpart and you have the shape of the full frames. Check the width! Do the same for the other half. If you can manage a computer program to do the trick, even better, but in the end you will end up with this: Go back to your printer and print 6 copies of the front part and 8 of the aft part of the ship. Paste them on eskaboard. Now you will have to mark the height of the deck on the frames. The best way is to cut the whole frame as it is on the body plan and draw the height of the deck later. 5. Now you will have to bring the spine of the ship and your frames together by cutting slots. Decide how deep your slots will be. Cut them in the spine from the top downwards and in the frames from the bottom upwards. Most of the time the waterline is your best option. If all goes well your frames will butt against the doubled keel and all will be in line. Mark the height of the spine on each of your frames and remove them from the spine. Now you can draw the exact height of the deck on the frame. You can make a mold with deck-camber and transfer it to the frames. Cut slots in the sides of the frames to half the distance to the centerline and perforate the remaining center part with light pressure of your knife, so that the whole part can easily be removed later on. 6. Take two strips of card of the ship’s half breadth and mark the position of the frames on them. Make slots in them halfway from the inside outwards. Now carefully fit the strips into the frames, so that the two meet just on top of the spine. This will add strength to the construction. Take the shape from the outside of every frame and cut out the shape of the upper deck. Also cut the hole(s) for the mast(s). The afterdeck is made separately, as the picture shows. 7. The last thing to do is to double the parts of the frames below deck level. This is to ensure that you have a good landing once the skin will be applied. The frames fore will be doubled on the front side, the frames aft on the aft side. At the extremities you will have to slightly correct the shape with a knife. Finally we glue the whole thing together. PVA glue can be used, as well as any clear plastic glue, or whatever you prefer. Make sure not to apply glue to the part above deck, which will be removed in a later stage. What you have now is about what kits offers you, but all done by yourself in an afternoon’s job and at practically no costs. Next time we will apply the skin of the ship.
  16. Good morning Gentlemen, Well, for those of you who may not have read my previous thread (below), this is my first attempt at a scratch-build, using Goodwin's (extremely helpful) guide for the Cutter Alert of 1777. I have drawn out each individual scantling/rib (whatever you may call it) on paper, then card, using the plans illustrated in Goodwin's guide. If using the traditional method of paper/pencil, be sure to have a waste paper basket nearby I watched a video of a card build of the Alert (this one manufactured by Shipyard models), just to see the method of construction and how to go about it. Each scantling was then glued to the main section using PVA. So, as you gentlemen see below, I have now begun this wild project and so far, I am quite pleased with it. I look forward to hearing any advice you chaps may have for me. Cheerio, Caleb
  17. I had a search, but couldn't find any other build logs of this model, so although I feel deeply unqualified, I thought I'd post a build log. This is the first card model I've built - in fact, it is mainly paper, with a laser-cut card frame (ShipYard also do a card version which is 1:72, and much more expensive!). So this won't be a masterclass, but hopefully the surprises and lessons learned as I go will be helpful to someone else following in my footsteps I started this model last year when I went on holiday - my main build is way too big to travel, so this one is more manageable (and a little less anti-social) - it may take me a while to finish, but hopefully I'll get there. I started by assembling the card structure of the ship. The diagrams provided are excellent, and the laser-cutting so good that this was very simple, and with a little care, it went together very nicely. I've read elsewhere that using a little superglue to wick into the extensions at the tops of the bulkheads strengthens them somewhat... I was too slow, and they got pretty mashed up. I'm hoping I'll be able to make up for that later on. So far, I've skinned the lower part of the hull, and started putting the details onto the gundeck. Here's a slightly more in-depth description of what I've learned, and done so far. Basic tools: Carpenters glue (Aliphatic) UHU glue (really really useful!) Pritt stick Superglue Lots of sharp xacto blades #11 and a handle Cutting mat 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2mm card to stick the paper onto where directed. (This was found in my local art supplies shop - I found it really hard to get online) 1. Assemble the frame from the laser-cutting. I used Carpenters glue to do this, and lego bricks to check it was all lined up... I think this was probably overkill, because with the deck on, it's pretty rigid, but it was my first attempt so I wanted to make sure it was all perfect. Sandpaper was useful to bevel the frames once put together... the card won't go over them (or have a flat surface to stick to) without this step, so it's pretty crucial. That said, it's pretty quick compared to bevel the frames on wooden models... that means it's even easier to go too far! - I marked the edges of the bulwarks with a marker so I could tell when I was not only reducing one side, but the overall outline of the bulwark. Once the frame was built, a couple of detail bits get stuck on to the lower deck (a brown sharpie was useful to edge the bits that are cut out to get rid of the white edges and make it look tidy), and then the false deck was then added... I made a mistake here by splurging on carpenters glue thinking that the paper covering would lie flat if only I pushed it down enough... not so much, it seems. It ended up looking horribly bumpy and I thought I'd wrecked the model... The answer (for me) it turns out is to use UHU, add it to the card, and then use a piece of card to scrape it and make it nice and flat, then add the paper, smoothing it as you go. This ends up in a nice flat surface... Thankfully, as we'll see, the false deck gets covered over later with a second 0.5mm sheet of card with the real gundeck pattern glued on top of it, so disaster was well and truly averted, and you'd never know I stuffed up now! Here's the first gun deck - you can't see the bumps, but trust me... they're there! More later. Rob
  18. I bought this kit after seeing completed builds on this and other sites. It is a model designed by Daniel Dayn Vishnevsky-Karlskhagen and I was intrigued to see how a longboat with its small frames could be built from card. It uses the same principle as the wood kits for longboats: frames supported by an internal plate which is removed after the external planking has been applied to the frames. The kit is low cost (I spent about €25 which included postage from Russia to the UK) and has excellent instructions. The only problem is that the instructions and guide are all in Russian (albeit with very good and useful illustrations), so I had to work hard using a variety of sources to translate it all into English. See my post on Russian translation and the resources used at and previously in my Chaloupe Armée build. For those who buy the kit I will be very willing to send them the translations of the instructions with the parts list. I have done the translations as a table with the original Russian in the left column and English in the right-hand column. I also have made a table or dictionary of Russian nautical terms used in the guide which goes with the parts list. I think you can only buy the kit from the author, whose email address is bureau.k68@gmail.com. You can see his full build of the original on the Russian forum at http://only-paper.ru/forum/85-12867-1, and you can see his discussion about it (in English) on the papermodelers forum at http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/27125-french-longboat-xviii-cen-most-large-pinnace-tree-masts-sails.html?highlight=planking . Because my interest was mainly in the method of construction, but also because I was prevented from continuing with my build of the Chaloupe by recuperation from surgery, I only built this model as far as completion of the basic boat without any masts or additions such as anchors and cleats. My main purpose in providing this Review/Log is to bring the attention of a really interesting kit to others on this forum who are proficient in card modelling or who just wish to probe it (as I did). I would rate it as fairly tricky but very rewarding. What’s in the kit? In addition to the guide and parts list, the parts themselves are printed on standard A4 photocopy paper. There are several sheets of 0.3mm card which can be multiplied to provide various thicknesses. The list of parts also details how thick each part should be. An interesting aspect of this kit is that the card comes in three colours: white, yellow ochre and red ochre. This is to allow you to make the model with a minimum of painting. A really nice feature of the kit is that plans are also provided for you to make all the masts, yards and fittings as well as accoutrements such as barrels, buckets, cleats, hooks, belaying pins and oars. A full rigging and sail plan is included, with directions for the varying rope thicknesses. Finally, the author has a practicum with colour photos which he will send you (in Russian). The base The first thing to make was the base. This is really sturdy, and, as with all the pieces, requires accurate cutting out so that the frames, when inserted, fit exactly. You’ll note in the photo the Swann Morton scalpel with a no 26 blade I use which I keep sharp by stropping after every few cuts. You can get the idea of the frame assembly with the following diagram: It is clear that you have to be very careful with where you place the glue if you want to remove the shell from the assembly later. But you can see that it does replicate very neatly the framing structure of the boat with floors and futtocks. You can see the assembly sequence in the photos below. The guide points to the fact that all but three of the 40 frames have the same height, so it is important to have a method of making sure that the height is correct. I built a small jig to build most of the frames, but later on just used a slide rule to check the heights. Despite all this my measurements were frequently incorrect and I had to adjust several frames by filing or gluing on various thicknesses of 0.1mm paper. Because the frames were made from grey/brown card, the instruction was to paint them with red ochre. This I did, but regretted because (a) I painted it on too thickly and (b) later on it interfered with the gluing. You can also see how the paint covered the holding frame – which I then had to separate from the floor with a scalpel in order to ensure I could remove the frames from the mould. Actually, after finishing the entire 40 frames, I was so dissatisfied that I made the model again, base and all, to this stage again, but being more careful with glue and paint. I don’t have photos of the second frame and mould, so you’ll have to make do with the photos of the first attempt! Stem, keel and stern timbers were then cut from 3mm card, glued and the assembly held in place with rubber bands. Planking I then laid the planks. I could have used the coloured card supplied in the kit, but I elected to use my own card which I then painted with yellow ochre. The spiled planks were beautifully accurate as printed, so I did not have to make any further adjustments when cutting from the plans. As you see, the big problem for me was laying the planks so that they would be completely flat. Mine turned out in a rather wavy fashion! Once the planking is complete, the shell with its frames can be cut from the mould. First there’s the rough cut using curved scissors to cut around the edges at the level of the rubbing strake and then to cut the areas attached to the base floor. The frame supports can now be cut away. Because I had used my own card, I had to paint the interior with red ochre. Finishing the hull The keelson, stemson and sternson are then put in place. The counter and timbers for the cuddy can now be added. With the cuddy finished, the main floorboards can be inserted. The thwart stringers are placed. The thwarts were made from 3mm card, and the supports made from 2mm cocktail sticks. The mainmast step was made from wood, using the plan in the guide. Now the thwart knees. The davit timbers and their roller are now constructed and assembled. The front davit with its roller were made in an identical way. The main remaining piece of the hull was the roller beam at the front. Swivel Guns Having done the main hull (without the swivel gun mounts, cleats, mast straps, belaying pins etc.) I thought that even though I wouldn’t arm the boat I would still see how cannon were made with paper alone. The instructions in this regard are excellent. I started with a simple roll of paper, marked with the positions for the subsequent layers of paper. Final result So, at its current stage, the model looks like this: In comparison with my ongoing 1:36 build of the Chaloupe Armée: I won’t be going any further with this build as from now on I will concentrate on finishing my build of the Chaloupe Armée. It is just possible that at some future date I will continue, but don’t hold your breath! The purpose of this review/log was mainly to bring the potential of this very nice model to the forum, and especially those who wish to explore card modelling – which, as you can see, offers up its own delights, techniques, thought processes and problems. Tony
  19. I thought I’d share some build photos of SMS Baden, HMV, 1/250. This ship is a bit more ambitious than Emden, something like 5000 pieces with the laser cut set. Not much to be said about what I’ve accomplished other than adding torsion stiffeners to the hull interior to prevent warping and add some stability. HMV makes a nice kit but boy their hull form structure is quite light. I doubled every single stringer too, and it was still wiggly. After adding the tortion support, stiff as a board. I’m also trying a new glue, an archival scrapbooking glue called Zip Dry. It works well, to my mind at least and the hull is arrow straight and true. However, the usual disclaimer applies: I am a self-realized high-functioning idiot. I have had no joints fail, but it doesn’t seem to be as strong as PVA. That said, I’ll take less bonding power of warping at this stage. The superstructure and details will be constructed with PVA though. I’ll post some more progress photos as I go along. Torsion supports: I use a piece of acrylic with a 3-ply foamcore support to make sure my bulls are true. It’s as flat as glass with no potential to bow, but it’s also much lighter. Casemate guns The 4 anchors contain 60 pieces. Spalted ash base The underwater portion of the hull after adding a plastisizer and prior to putty. It’s impoasible to build a good-looking underwater hull without putty. All together now, attached and painted.
  20. Hi @ all! I would like to present here my ongoing project. It is the Mayflower from 1620 after the plans of Waldemar Nowy (Danzig, Poland) 1975: "Historic Sailship MAYFLOWER" (based on the Mayflower II) I started this build about in November 2010. I had several breaks during the build due to my private situation. At the moment I work on the cannons and the masts. Here are some pictures of my progress so far. I would also like to post some of my techniques I used as soon as time allows me to. Rgds, Radek
  21. Greetings to all who are interested. here we go, my first build log and my first attempts at paper modelling. the full title of the kit seemed too long as the kit includes a second model: the destroyer SHEFFIELD. i'm starting with this one and using it as a 'throw away' so i can figure out how exactly to tackle this card thing that has so intrigued me. i will then move on to the container ship.
  22. Hello Some time ago I started building Sao Gabriel based on the model in the museum in Lisbon. I do not have exact plans, but based on photos, dimensions and proportions of this type of vessels I managed to design a ship quite similar to the original. The progress in the construction is enough to show the first photos. The hull frames were made of 1 mm thick cardboard. I have planned three layers of planking: the first vertical layer, which stabilizes the frames, the second longitudinal one on the cardboard 0.5 mm and the third one in color as the final planks. After gluing the first layer, I added some of the decks and evened the entire hull with sandpaper to remove adhesive residues and greater inaccuracies. On these parts you can see lines according to which I will glue the next layer. Before sticking the next decks, I had to make a few details, which would later be very difficult to access. Then I glued the second layer, so far only to the level of the main deck and then I built a part of the forecastle. The construction of forecastle... Then, step by step, I added the next strips of the second layer and the next level in the forecastle. Because the model has a lot of windows in the stern part, I created some rooms there. Unfortunately, there are not many sources describing rooms in sailing ships from this period, so this is only my imagination. Now I could "lock" the whole with the upper decks. Before gluing the last layer, the whole hull was covered with wood glue, which made it stiffer. I smoothed the whole with sandpaper and started gluing the last layer. Each strip is two boards with a dividing line marked with a blunt needle. Visible white gaps will be covered with wales, so it will look OK. Best Tomek
  23. Here are 2 sites I have had in my favorite folder. (you may already know about these). http://www.cardfaq.org/faq/freeb.html http://www.paper-replika.com/ (dead link) The only card model I have ever done was a clock kit that was from a Canadian manufacturer. It worked but it was slow. Meaning it lost 5 minutes every day. Marc
  24. I am attempting my first ever card model "RMS Mauretania" a free download from papermodelers.com, she is around 1m long. Its a bit complex for a first build, but it was free and I hope I can learn from my mistakes and gain some useful tips from the forum to enable me to tackle a published card model from SHIPYARD probably HMS Mercury. I will try and be as open and honest as possible highlighting the stuff ups, I will obviously make, and the lessons I have learnt from those stuff ups. I have been working on the model for several weeks now and will post the beginning of the build in due course. Here is what the finished product is meant to look like 😕

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...