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Found 16 results

  1. Have you ever browsed through your favorite build to see what the full build looks like at the present time? Have you ever wondered what else is being built on MSW 2.0, it may be a kit, scratch, R/C, card or plastic, or any other material, including digital reconstruction. I am inviting all members to post one latest photo of their build (side elevation)and a link to that build, so everyone can see what it looks like, and give others an idea of what else is going on. I am not trying to create a multitude of build logs under one topic, just photo’s so we can all see what is going on. Please delete any other photo's you may have posted in this thread, This will possibly help others in deciding on what to build next Anyone interested?
  2. After finishing my model of Axeldijk, I start a new card-model by the Dutch firm Scaldis. It is a 1:250 model of the light cruiser Hr.Ms. De Ruyter. (The model is designed bythe polishfirm JSC). The ship measured 170 meters, sothemodel is just under80 centimeters long. De Ruyter was a ship designed inthe same period as the Dutch cruisers Java and Sumatra: early thirties. I rhink they have an appealing design: long, sleek lines. Hoever, for their purpose, they were a bit outdatedalready at their launch: their armamanet being 7 15cm guns, and a number of machine guns for anti aircraft protection. She also had to Fokker biplanes on board. het warrime crew was 470 men. The ship had an armour belt at the waterline, but that alos was more basedshipdesign inthe interbellum than a match to the modern ships of the early forties. She was the flagship of the combined fleet inthe Java-sea, and went down in that battle in 1942, on februari 27th. The basic design of the hull is comparable to that of many scaldis-models: a triangular guirder that acts as the backbone of the model, the frames are slotted on this beam, deck glued on top, andnext the hull (in threepieces) attached. I will glue a sepearte 160grams sheet under the decks, as with Axeldijk I discovered that the deck remains a bit wobbly, and tends to curve in unexpected (and unwanted) places, resulting in deck-houses not being vertical.... I don't actually like this construcion: it is rather sturdy,but any dolding or gluing errors in that triangular part willend up in a skewed hull (and there is no way ofcorrecting that skewedness). There are some buildlogs of DeRuyter around, but almost none of them reaches the end. I wonder why..... Jan
  3. Hi. I would like to present you my current build - Allege d'Arles published by WAK in Poland. Card kit was designed by Tomasz Weremko who is lurking on this forum under the name of 0Seahorse. I made quite a few card kits in my teenage years, but this is my second ever build of sailing ship (first being Koga Elbląska). I hope you will find this build interesting and that we can learn something new together. According to short brief in kit, Allege d'Alres where small, 25 - 30 meters long merchant vessels used near Rhone estuary on the Mediterranean coast of France. Cover of the kit: Hull frame: More to follow.
  4. Two weeks ago I bought myself a paper-kit of a rather nice ship (a Dutch protected cruiser (Evertsen). As there are no spare parts in that one, I decided to do a warming-up, by building the V108 Torpedo boat. Why: Quite simple: it is a rather nice little ship, there is an excelent tutorial of it in MSW, and last-but-not least, it is a free download, so if I screw things up, I can just start over. I made some little prgress over the last two weeks. Learning a few lessons: cheap cardboard is a no-go for most parts: it is curving in all directions. Keep your knife straight, otherwise you get a nice bevel on your frames where you don't want it: Don't force, otherwise straight parts aren't straight anymore: You can use a glass plate, and lots of tamiya tape to correct allmost all problems mentioned above And finally: now I know what dictionaries are for: To be continued..... Jan Ps: how do I remove uploaded pics that shouldn't be here? That skeleton of Eversten keeps popping up found it
  5. I had a search, but couldn't find any other build logs of this model, so although I feel deeply unqualified, I thought I'd post a build log. This is the first card model I've built - in fact, it is mainly paper, with a laser-cut card frame (ShipYard also do a card version which is 1:72, and much more expensive!). So this won't be a masterclass, but hopefully the surprises and lessons learned as I go will be helpful to someone else following in my footsteps I started this model last year when I went on holiday - my main build is way too big to travel, so this one is more manageable (and a little less anti-social) - it may take me a while to finish, but hopefully I'll get there. I started by assembling the card structure of the ship. The diagrams provided are excellent, and the laser-cutting so good that this was very simple, and with a little care, it went together very nicely. I've read elsewhere that using a little superglue to wick into the extensions at the tops of the bulkheads strengthens them somewhat... I was too slow, and they got pretty mashed up. I'm hoping I'll be able to make up for that later on. So far, I've skinned the lower part of the hull, and started putting the details onto the gundeck. Here's a slightly more in-depth description of what I've learned, and done so far. Basic tools: Carpenters glue (Aliphatic) UHU glue (really really useful!) Pritt stick Superglue Lots of sharp xacto blades #11 and a handle Cutting mat 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2mm card to stick the paper onto where directed. (This was found in my local art supplies shop - I found it really hard to get online) 1. Assemble the frame from the laser-cutting. I used Carpenters glue to do this, and lego bricks to check it was all lined up... I think this was probably overkill, because with the deck on, it's pretty rigid, but it was my first attempt so I wanted to make sure it was all perfect. Sandpaper was useful to bevel the frames once put together... the card won't go over them (or have a flat surface to stick to) without this step, so it's pretty crucial. That said, it's pretty quick compared to bevel the frames on wooden models... that means it's even easier to go too far! - I marked the edges of the bulwarks with a marker so I could tell when I was not only reducing one side, but the overall outline of the bulwark. Once the frame was built, a couple of detail bits get stuck on to the lower deck (a brown sharpie was useful to edge the bits that are cut out to get rid of the white edges and make it look tidy), and then the false deck was then added... I made a mistake here by splurging on carpenters glue thinking that the paper covering would lie flat if only I pushed it down enough... not so much, it seems. It ended up looking horribly bumpy and I thought I'd wrecked the model... The answer (for me) it turns out is to use UHU, add it to the card, and then use a piece of card to scrape it and make it nice and flat, then add the paper, smoothing it as you go. This ends up in a nice flat surface... Thankfully, as we'll see, the false deck gets covered over later with a second 0.5mm sheet of card with the real gundeck pattern glued on top of it, so disaster was well and truly averted, and you'd never know I stuffed up now! Here's the first gun deck - you can't see the bumps, but trust me... they're there! More later. Rob
  6. I bought this kit after seeing completed builds on this and other sites. It is a model designed by Daniel Dayn Vishnevsky-Karlskhagen and I was intrigued to see how a longboat with its small frames could be built from card. It uses the same principle as the wood kits for longboats: frames supported by an internal plate which is removed after the external planking has been applied to the frames. The kit is low cost (I spent about €25 which included postage from Russia to the UK) and has excellent instructions. The only problem is that the instructions and guide are all in Russian (albeit with very good and useful illustrations), so I had to work hard using a variety of sources to translate it all into English. See my post on Russian translation and the resources used at and previously in my Chaloupe Armée build. For those who buy the kit I will be very willing to send them the translations of the instructions with the parts list. I have done the translations as a table with the original Russian in the left column and English in the right-hand column. I also have made a table or dictionary of Russian nautical terms used in the guide which goes with the parts list. I think you can only buy the kit from the author, whose email address is bureau.k68@gmail.com. You can see his full build of the original on the Russian forum at http://only-paper.ru/forum/85-12867-1, and you can see his discussion about it (in English) on the papermodelers forum at http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/27125-french-longboat-xviii-cen-most-large-pinnace-tree-masts-sails.html?highlight=planking . Because my interest was mainly in the method of construction, but also because I was prevented from continuing with my build of the Chaloupe by recuperation from surgery, I only built this model as far as completion of the basic boat without any masts or additions such as anchors and cleats. My main purpose in providing this Review/Log is to bring the attention of a really interesting kit to others on this forum who are proficient in card modelling or who just wish to probe it (as I did). I would rate it as fairly tricky but very rewarding. What’s in the kit? In addition to the guide and parts list, the parts themselves are printed on standard A4 photocopy paper. There are several sheets of 0.3mm card which can be multiplied to provide various thicknesses. The list of parts also details how thick each part should be. An interesting aspect of this kit is that the card comes in three colours: white, yellow ochre and red ochre. This is to allow you to make the model with a minimum of painting. A really nice feature of the kit is that plans are also provided for you to make all the masts, yards and fittings as well as accoutrements such as barrels, buckets, cleats, hooks, belaying pins and oars. A full rigging and sail plan is included, with directions for the varying rope thicknesses. Finally, the author has a practicum with colour photos which he will send you (in Russian). The base The first thing to make was the base. This is really sturdy, and, as with all the pieces, requires accurate cutting out so that the frames, when inserted, fit exactly. You’ll note in the photo the Swann Morton scalpel with a no 26 blade I use which I keep sharp by stropping after every few cuts. You can get the idea of the frame assembly with the following diagram: It is clear that you have to be very careful with where you place the glue if you want to remove the shell from the assembly later. But you can see that it does replicate very neatly the framing structure of the boat with floors and futtocks. You can see the assembly sequence in the photos below. The guide points to the fact that all but three of the 40 frames have the same height, so it is important to have a method of making sure that the height is correct. I built a small jig to build most of the frames, but later on just used a slide rule to check the heights. Despite all this my measurements were frequently incorrect and I had to adjust several frames by filing or gluing on various thicknesses of 0.1mm paper. Because the frames were made from grey/brown card, the instruction was to paint them with red ochre. This I did, but regretted because (a) I painted it on too thickly and (b) later on it interfered with the gluing. You can also see how the paint covered the holding frame – which I then had to separate from the floor with a scalpel in order to ensure I could remove the frames from the mould. Actually, after finishing the entire 40 frames, I was so dissatisfied that I made the model again, base and all, to this stage again, but being more careful with glue and paint. I don’t have photos of the second frame and mould, so you’ll have to make do with the photos of the first attempt! Stem, keel and stern timbers were then cut from 3mm card, glued and the assembly held in place with rubber bands. Planking I then laid the planks. I could have used the coloured card supplied in the kit, but I elected to use my own card which I then painted with yellow ochre. The spiled planks were beautifully accurate as printed, so I did not have to make any further adjustments when cutting from the plans. As you see, the big problem for me was laying the planks so that they would be completely flat. Mine turned out in a rather wavy fashion! Once the planking is complete, the shell with its frames can be cut from the mould. First there’s the rough cut using curved scissors to cut around the edges at the level of the rubbing strake and then to cut the areas attached to the base floor. The frame supports can now be cut away. Because I had used my own card, I had to paint the interior with red ochre. Finishing the hull The keelson, stemson and sternson are then put in place. The counter and timbers for the cuddy can now be added. With the cuddy finished, the main floorboards can be inserted. The thwart stringers are placed. The thwarts were made from 3mm card, and the supports made from 2mm cocktail sticks. The mainmast step was made from wood, using the plan in the guide. Now the thwart knees. The davit timbers and their roller are now constructed and assembled. The front davit with its roller were made in an identical way. The main remaining piece of the hull was the roller beam at the front. Swivel Guns Having done the main hull (without the swivel gun mounts, cleats, mast straps, belaying pins etc.) I thought that even though I wouldn’t arm the boat I would still see how cannon were made with paper alone. The instructions in this regard are excellent. I started with a simple roll of paper, marked with the positions for the subsequent layers of paper. Final result So, at its current stage, the model looks like this: In comparison with my ongoing 1:36 build of the Chaloupe Armée: I won’t be going any further with this build as from now on I will concentrate on finishing my build of the Chaloupe Armée. It is just possible that at some future date I will continue, but don’t hold your breath! The purpose of this review/log was mainly to bring the potential of this very nice model to the forum, and especially those who wish to explore card modelling – which, as you can see, offers up its own delights, techniques, thought processes and problems. Tony
  7. Hello friends, I'm starting a project here is mixture of research and building. As I came from the plastic kit bashing side of the modelling society I'm fed up with the chequebook modelling destroing any creativity. So as I'm in a new less payed job I changed my mind to a more creative and less expensive theater of the hobby: cardboard modelling. The scale fits to my flat's size. Sorry for my bad English - I'm not rearly far away from my school standards 30 years ago. Base of my project is the early Shipyard plan of Le Coureur the French lugger in 1/96. The little ship that was taken 1778 by HMCutter Alert - and what a nice and heartwarming thing it is that due to this find we have got the plans in the NMM. It is the basis of the Bourdriot monographie. The are three important sources of knowledge for me strating in the modelship's world: A. Petesson - Fore and After Rigging B. Bouriot - Le Coureur Monographie C. Friends of the Navy Museum - Plan (1960th?) (D. a www-copy if the NMM-plan) The Peterson shows the rigging of a bigger and in some details differing lugger from the same timeframe. The monographie is very good and well detailed - I decided to take the save route and ordered a new issiue at www.ancre.fr so the money was directly. with the drawer. And I was shure to get a complete set of plans. The Paris Museum's plan is based on the Admirals Pâris drawings and showing a simpler rigging with a diffrend decks layout. The NMM plan shows a superstructure in red on deck - the Shipyard kit shows hatches. Boudriot draws his particular part in dotted lines in one deck's sideview. I decided to trust in the NMM plan and in Ancre, too. So I've figured out the kitmakers at Shipyard followed the plan of the Paris Naval Museum. The similarity of the stern decorations are also evident. So the list of errors, carenesslesses and force to construct a buildable cardboard kit've born an intersting fundament of a nice little ship. As I'm not a francophone person, I have got my. problems with the texts in the monographie. But from all the three sourced it seems to be the one of the highest quality. So here some first impressions for you about the similarity of the kit and the Paris Plan. 1. The sternview of the ParisPlan 2. Some picture from the Shipyard manual showing the missing badge 3. The “KateWinslet leaving step“ in the topview 4. same area in the manual 5. my hobby ship yard. These as some first impressions for you. At the moment I'm struggling with the lasercut cardboard hull and its plywood filling I've get tip in a German forum.
  8. Here are 2 sites I have had in my favorite folder. (you may already know about these). http://www.cardfaq.org/faq/freeb.html http://www.paper-replika.com/ (dead link) The only card model I have ever done was a clock kit that was from a Canadian manufacturer. It worked but it was slow. Meaning it lost 5 minutes every day. Marc
  9. I promised a restart on the kingfisher-model. Today, I finally managed to do some work on it. It is a model designed by Johan Scherft, and the template is downloadable from his site. There is a nice you-tube video, showing how it should be done (life is not so easy as the vid suggests, but still, it is not a very complicated model with lots of tiny fiddly bits.) Time for some pics. First the template. This is all there is. (Actually, there is also a paper branche template. Did not download that for the moment) The head: template after cutting (swan morton is very usefull, although it can be done with small scissors) and all the longitudinal tabs and those above the eyes are glued. next - while the head was drying - the tail, from two parts And now for the major part: the body paper is funny stuff: I printed the bird last week, and it was very dry and rather cold here last week. After cutting, the paper startedto curl upwards.... no bug deal, as it is just normal 80 grams officepaper, the paper bends easily back when glueing. And then the process of glueing starts: tab by tab, starting with the small ones, and working towards the larger ones. Here a pic of how the bird is right now. Not too stressfull so far, just two and a half hours of fun. I hope to continue tomorrow. Jan
  10. Didn't want to do ship tonight. So I downloaded another bird (johan Scherft design) It is a humming bird, real size, so it is small. Almost too small for my fingers. 5There is a slightly larger version on the scherft-website, I should have started that one...... I thought I took pictures of all parts and stages, but no, I did not. But I guess you get the point from the ones I did take. the little guy needs some paint on his beak, and some of the sides need some paint to tone down the white lines a little bit. I still need to think of a stand, as this one does show a bird in flight..... I guess that the final pic (with stand), will take the usual delay. Have a nice weekend, Jan
  11. Greetings to all. My name is Tomek. For some time I have been working on my next card sail ship the British cutter HMS "Fly". I build my models only from paper and cardboard without painting (of course masts and rigging are made of wood and thread). I will honestly admit that "Fly" is my 20 cardboard model of a sailing ship so it looks much better than my first models from 15 years ago. The "step by step" how I design and build card sailing ships... 1. Frames made of 1mm card. The model is really small (about 16 cm long) 2. The first layer to strengthen and stabilize the hull 3. The second layer made of 0,5 mm card. The glue is applied only in places where the edges of the frame are located . Thanks to this the hull gets soft curves without visible "cow's ribs" ... 4. Attaching the third final layer on a well-prepared hull is a pleasure. 5. The deck equipment and artillery 6. The current stage - the mast and the bowsprit with standing rigging Regards Tomek
  12. Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) Sometimes known as the replacement for the famous "Liberty" ship, the 14,000 ton SD14 general cargo ships are found under many different names and flags in most of the world's ports and all of the high seas. The designation "SD14" denotes "Shelter Deck 14,000 tons". The shelter deck is the second or tween deck in the cargo spaces and, when the ship is loaded down to her plimsoll line, she displaces 14,000 tons. By the mid 1960s, there remained some 700 Liberty and other war-built cargo ships still trading. Even the youngest were 20 years old and the question of a replacement was exercising the minds of ship owners and builders around the world. the emergence of bulk carriers and container ships pointed to the end of the "shelter Deck" design which had been used with little alteration since the turn of the century. Many felt that this design was no obsolete and that the future lay with containerisation. It was, therefore, something of a surprise when ship builders all over the world unveiled their plans for the "liberty Ship Replacement", almost all of which offered a two-deck vessel of 14,000/15,000 tons deadweight. Doubtless this choice was influenced by the requirements of potential customers. Most of the war-built vessels were, by this time, being operated by Greek ship owners of limited resources to whom these new designs, for a type of vessel with which they were fully experienced and priced at about £1 million with cheap credit facilities, were very attractive. A total of 30 designs were put forward as the "Liberty Ship Replacement" in the early months of 1966. Of these, the most successful was the SD14, developed by the Sunderland shipbuilders, Austin and Pickersgill. The first SD14 keel was laid on 8th. June 1967. Unusually, this was not at Austin and Pickersgill's own yard, but nearby at that of another Sunderland shipbuilder, Bartram's, who were building the ship under licence. The first ship, named Mimis N. Papalios, was launched on 1st. December 1967. She was also very nearly the first SD14 to be completed. However, Austin and Pickersgill managed to make up the leeway in their own building programme to hand over the first completed SD14, the Nicola, on 14th. February 1968, the Mimis N. Papalios following the next day. Between 1968 and 1988, a total of 211 SD14s were completed and it is interesting to note that, by 1990, only 10 had been scrapped for commercial reasons, a further three going to the breaker's yard after marine accidents. Of the dozen vessels reported as sunk, at least two fell victim to missile attack during the Iran/Iraq conflict. Like the original Liberty ships, which many thought would be scrapped as soon as the war was over, the SD14 was not ascribed a very long life by some early critics. Nevertheless, these ships are still in demand in the charter market, with average daily rates of $5,200 for a one-year time contract, and in the second hand market with prices ranging from $2.5m for an early seventies ship to $5.75m. for a newer example. One guide to the success of the SD14 is to look at the movement of the 211 ships through the second-hand market. Most of the ships now sailing are with only their second owner, a few remaining with their original purchaser. The oldest SD14 in service is the Wave Crest, the vessel which, as the Mimis N. Papalios, missed by one day the distinction of being the first completed ship of her type. The Model In 1978, while attached to Manchester Docks, George Robinson, a retired Merchant Navy captain, hit on the idea of providing the port fire brigade with an easy-to-build model of the SD14. In this way, the trainee firemen could easily and quickly become familiar with the layout of the ship. So, originated a 2-foot long, 1:70 scale model kit of the Forward section of the SD14. This first attempt met with such success that kits if the Midships and After sections followed in 1979, the complete model measuring an imposing 7 feet in length. Professional and international recognition followed in 1982 when the model won the "Shipwrights Model Competition" at the Guildhall in London. Quite apart from sheer size, the kit is remarkable, for it is, in fact, put together in much the same way as the original was in Sunderland. Space here permits no more than a brief glimpse of what awaits the builder of this miniature leviathan. The instructions, which, for the complete kit, run to about 60 pages, first explain that the model will be built by the dry dock method rather than on the slipway - the difference is clarified. You then proceed to lay the shell bottom plates of the Forward section to form the double bottom, between the outer surface of the hull and the inner surface of the holds. On the original, the space in between in used for water ballast, necessary to keep the propellor submerged when there is no cargo and to maintain an even keel. This last expression, in such common and, I suspect , often unwitting, usage, is precisely defined. The building progresses aft as the cargo holds are each constructed with transverse watertight bulkheads, hold pillars and centre line plates. There are even properly runged ladders on which to descend to the bowels of the vessel. In the After section, as well as a cargo hold, there is the engine room together with the propellor shaft tunnel and, by lifting up the after deck house, access is provided to the steering gear flat and the rudder stock. In the bridge superstructure, containing the crew's accommodation, every cabin is accounted for. The crew's mess room, galley and smoke room are each separately delineated as are the linen locker, baggage room and officers' smoke room to mention but a few. The model also incorporates the correct ventilation trunk ways, the significance of which for cargo handling is explained. In the course of construction, the instructions are supplemented by sections which explain the actual fabrication of the original, so that, as you work through the model, you learn about the SD14, how it was assembled and how it works.The operation of such components as MacGregor hatch covers, the keelson and camber in the original are fully expounded and you can then reproduce these to scale. Step-by-step diagrams illustrate the sequence of construction. It is perhaps worth remembering that ships are machines, the largest ever built by man. So it is fascinating to see how this great machine works and to reproduce it in miniature at the same time. The correct nautical terms are used and explained, showing how each part of the ship functions and how the whole design draws on centuries of experience to produce the modern ocean-going vessel. If, like me, you have wondered what exactly is a "Tween Deck" and what is its purpose, you need wonder no more. All is revealed after which you can actually build one. The kit is printed on 184 A3 sheets of top quality manilla card, there being approximately 4,500 pieces, and the modeller can choose to paint the model with an authentic colour scheme or one of his own choice. The three sections can be fixed together or left dismantled and the aft superstructure can be removed to give a glimpse of the various deck levels inside the hull. naturally, all the cargo hatches open to show the holds. . The model can be made either for display or, with suitable waterproofing (see "Cutting Remarks" no. 3), can be sailed, there being space for R/C gear. Although the original SD14 models were all sold out about 10 years ago, Marcle Models, under licence from George Robinson, reissues the SD14 kit. The complete kit, weighing over 17 lbs, is supplied in 6 cartons, complete with a tool kit and costs £280 including worldwide surface mail. The three sections, Forward, Midships and After, are each available separately at £105 each. Should you decide to have a go, this, the "Non plus ultra of card (and perhaps any other type of) modelling, should keep you busy for about a year. Christopher Cooke and Thomas Pleiner, with acknowledgements to George Robinson, John Lingwood and Ships Monthly. Article first appeared in "Cutting Remarks" No. 4, September 1992.
  13. Hi, as a break (needed something to do while the glue of my other models is setting, I downloaded a cardmodel of a bird, a wren to be exact. (Www.johanscherft.nl). rather fun to build, and not difficult at all. The result is rather convincing: a life size bird, 16 parts, just from your own printer. I will just show the pics, no story needed (I think) to the 'kit'. I printed it on 120 grams paper, but 80 is better (as it is thinner, the edge problem is smaller, and it will curve more easily. The head: lines on my cutting mat are 1 cm apart the hull in variou stages of forming Start of the tail. The 5 additional feathers are still drying under some weight. Two wings. Flat and curved. There is a beak (somewhere on the grond now, but I willretreive it ) and two legs still to be cutted. Final assamblage will be tomorrow (I think) picture will follow for the gallery (untill the moderators remove it, as a wren is not a ship at all) Jan
  14. I have a long time interest in the American Civil War. One particular subject is the Brown Water ships used by both sides on the Mississippi and its feeder rivers. I've spotted a few kits I like and they lured me off the Bounty launch for a while. Some of the Union ships were initially started by the US Army, but eventually ended up under USN control. The Choctaw was originally a commercial ship launched in 1856, purchased by the US Army in September 1862, converted into an ironclad ram and finally commissioned in the USN in March 1863. Choctaw was a 260' (79m) long side paddle wheel steamer, with a beam of 45' (14m). She carried 1 x 100 lb rifle, 3 x 9" Dahlgren smoothbores and 2 x 30 lb Parrott rifles. Choctaw took part in operations along the lower Mississippi around Haynes Bluff, MS, up the Yazoo River and participated in the Red River expedition, up to Alexandria in Louisiana in 1864. She was decommissioned in New Orleans in July 1865. This model is a card kit I purchased from ECardmodels.com. There are 8 pages of parts and 4 of instructions. It's a download only, so the purchaser has to print out the pages. Since Heinkel Models is located in Spain, his designs are done on A4 paper (8.3" by 11.3" or so). I got some 110 lb paper in that size, along with a small pack of heavier card. You'll end up laminating a number of parts to about a 1 mm thick card backing for this model. Here's the cover sheet. The model is almost 18" (40cm) long. The instructions say there are over 350 parts in this beast. I reread Chris Coyle's card tutorials a time or three, then made sure I has appropriate card stock and glue. I glued up enough heavy card stock for 3 letter size pages of 1 mm backing. Instead of using3M spray-on cement for laminations, I used some 3M Positionable Mounting Adhesive. No warping of the card stock. I let it sit overnight and laid out the appropriate parts, as marked in the kit, that should be mounted on the 1 mm backing. And there are a few more parts going on another sheet of .5 mm backing. Then the fun began. Make sure you have a good supply of sharp cutting tools. The 110 lb card on top of 1mm backing was murder on blades. Not too bad cutting the straight edges, but the curved parts (bow and stern, paddle wheel covers) were challenging. I felt like I had regressed to the '70s or early '80s in model railroad structures. Multiple slices and retouching any interior corners with a file/sanding device. Many of the parts need to have cutouts so that the superstructure parts interlock. And the hull has a keel and bulkheads. I'll get some pictures of the parts I've got cut out so far next time. Thanks for reading this.
  15. i downloaded and started this free model from the Maritime Museum of San Diego to see how it is building in card first some of the parts needed to be on 1mm and 2 mm thick cardboard upper hull structure assmebled
  16. Well, luckily I haven't worked much on this ship lately, so I'll restart the buildlog as if I just began construction of this intrigate model. About the ship : She started out as a single-hull tanker under the name "Ché Guevara", however due to changing international laws (as a direct result from oil disasters with this kind of ships) she was refit to be a mobile refinary. The kit : The kit, or rather the booklet is from the Polish publisher "JSC" and there are lasercut parts available (which I also bought). The cover (of "boxart" if you like) The real ship (mind you, the kit is a waterline model) : The first few steps, what you see here is the underside of the deck : The topside of the same part along with the final deck layer that will fit on it : Starting on the aft superstructure : On to the bow area : The next level : Skin applied to the hull : Some more parts to the aft structure : And where I am now :

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