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Found 7 results

  1. At long last I have started my CWM. This kit has been in my stash for quite some time. I saw no point in photographing the kit contents as there are quite a few Morgan build logs showing the parts. I will note that, contrary to the instructions, the center keel was a single laser cut piece, not 2 pieces. I do not know if this is still the case, but it makes for an easier start to the build. The photo shows my building slip set up to start test-fitting the bulkheads.
  2. Well I'm settled enough in my new place to get started on a build. I'll call this my first build as any experience I have had, was a long. long time ago. Model is about 35 years old (guesstimate) of the Charles W Morgan my Artesania Latina. This model was donated a couple of years ago to the Living Boat Trust, I group of which I'm a member. The LBT maintain and occasionally build, wooden boats in Franklin, Tasmania. Bulkheads are router cut. Not sure if this would have been CNC given the age of the model. DIe cut parts, no lasers here! Lots of little plastic bags. I've got some partitioned containers to put these in. I think I have the necessary tools assemled. I just need to make up a board on which to build it and maybe a keel clamp - I have some aluminium extrusion and 3D printed clamps for that. Don't pull up a chair just yet, this could take a while! Regards Geoff
  3. My first wood model kit of this caliber. I am working on a 1/96 scale Yacht America from Bluejacket and just completed the USS Constitution from Revell a plastic kit with many wood enhancements and under full sail. Here is what I have so far.... This is where I started...
  4. Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go! I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you. I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later??? Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow). I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
  5. Hoooooo boy, where to even begin... Maybe some background: My grandfather was a prolific model maker, spending his retirement assembling models with what I can only assume were kits, judging by how long scratch builds seem to take. He passed away some years ago, and his models were either split between his children or sold - I recently inherited one of the ones we kept. That model is the Charles W. Morgan, and boy is it in rough shape. If the title didn't warn you enough, I'll say it again - this poor ship has seen much better days. Here are some pictures: Overview: Top of the Mainmast: The Bow: At the stern, I don't know what this is called, but it's one of many broken ... booms? There's a broken railing on the starboard side: A good example of the general state of the rigging: The hull has also been beat up (starboard forward): Aft on the starboard side: As you can see, there's lots of damage, and that's why I'm here. I need help. I don't know where to begin. I don't know what kit this is, where I can find plans, and what the right order of operations will be. To start, I'll be dusting - I know how to do that! Any tips, tricks, or suggestions are more than appreciated - at this point, I think it's necessary.
  6. Now that I've shelved my HMS Lyme for the time being to build it as a future scratch build, I decided to start the Charles Morgan by Model Shipways. I won't get into the politics of whaling, and by building this model I don't mean to glorify that industry, but the ship is a beautiful vessel with a lot of history. It was built in 1841 and made 37 voyages, processing more whales than any other ship in history. It was purchased for Mystic Seaport in 1941, where it currently resides as part of the museum. A couple of summers ago I went to a wedding in Connecticut and took a side trip one day to visit Mystic Seaport and the Morgan with my family. My daughter had a great time going on the "pirate ship." It's well worth a visit if you can get out there, with other ships also as part of the collection. I'm particularly excited to build a model of a ship that I had the privilege of visiting. I was able to take a lot of pictures, which I'll show from time to time on this log (like the ones on this post). My plans for the build: The MS kit is based on the configuration of 1892-1908. I have the Leavitt book on the Morgan, and like the Constitution, the Morgan has gone through various configurations at the stern. I'll probably build the kit based on the kit's configuration, but I might do a little research to see if there is another that I prefer. At one time fake gunports were pointed along its sides which is not a look I want to replicate on this build. Like the Pegasus, I'm planning to paint with wood by either using natural woods or using stains in lieu of paints. The Morgan is primarily black with white accents, the bulkwarks and deck structures ochre, and the deck somewhat grayish. At one time I thought about using African Blackwood for the black areas, but was quoted a price of close to $700 for wood to make the build. A bit pricey, so I think I'm going to go with pear stained black for the black areas. I still need to think about the white areas - I might use holly, or in the alternative, I found a white stain by General Finishes that isn't too garish and covers wood and metal very nicely. The ochre areas will be in boxwood, and for the deck, I have one stain that will give that grayish look - but I might try some of the weathering applications out there to see things come out. My goal is to hopefully show the Morgan in a more weathered state - a little rust on the iron parts, oxidized hull coppering, etc. I also plan to display the model in full sail. There are a number of other great logs out there from which I will shameless borrow from - Texxn5 (John), Bruce Evans, Gerald Spargo, Joe V, Udo K, Scoot and Homer -- among other logs using other kits. They set the bar up high which is a good challenge for me to do the best I can do. In case you are interested, the Morgan underwent a big restoration project a few years ago. There is a real in-depth blog on the Mystic Seaport website which details with great pictures all the work that went into the restoration. It's amazing how these ships were built in the absence of power equipment: http://www.mysticseaport.org/morganblog/ Thanks for looking in!
  7. Ahoy New here to the forum although I signed up many years back but never posted anything so I will start with this one. Okay shipmates this is a out of production and lost forgotten kit manufacture of yesteryear. I obtained this kit in 1954 been working on her off and on for decades on end now its time to get her done. The hull is still being fitted out and I just completed the three mast assemblies these old Marine model kits are old school kits back in those days they give you everything but a display case back then I paid $14.95 a lot of money back in that day but well spent compared today. Okay here are the pictures of what I have done thus far. I have a long way to go and it will all be posted here. Boats

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