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Found 25 results

  1. After much research I am ready to build Chuck Passaro’s @Chuck Revenue Cutter Cheerful 1806. And so it begins... After completing nine kits over the years I am making my first attempt at scratch building. Well, I say scratch building but Chuck’s Cheerful plans, starter kit, wood package, and sub-assemblies along with his instructions and always gracious guidance make it a much easier transition. While I’m a decent kit modeler I’m hesitant to post a build log for Cheerful. There are several outstanding logs already on MSW, some from builders I’ve admired, some I’ve just discovered in searching Cheerful, and of course the master himself, Chuck. I don’t know how I can add anything to what they’ve already done. They do say however every model is unique, I’m pretty sure I’ll prove that... One thing is for sure, I’m going to learn a lot along the way. A good reason for a build log is having the council and support of the MSW community. I’m going to build it to the best of my ability, and I’m certain at the end of the build my ability will be a bit better than when I started. I’ll ask questions and share how I do things, hoping there is something useful for the next builder. I’d like to think my log will be a Cheerful read and not a Surly one (see what I did there…). For proper motivation I ordered a copy of the British NMM plan for Cheerful. I plan to hang it in my shop (next to the NMM plan of Pegasus) once frame shops are open again, whenever that is (Covid shut down for future readers). These plans are wonderful to look at - the fact these drawings turned into a ship and stood the test of time to become today’s model … very cool. We custom built our house, from the very first drawing I had the intent to include room for my model building. The architect didn’t quite get it initially, but the final blueprint has the notation “Ship Room.” We don’t have basements here in Texas due to the soil condition, so it’s fitted into the architecture tucked away on the lower of the three levels. The upside is it’s a nice sized well lit room for building, the down side is that there isn’t a lot of room for machinery, which I don’t have anyway other than the Byrnes saw and sander, so Cheerful, hand tools it is. The tub on the back right is loaded with my Cheerful collection of wood, sub-assemblies, blocks, and rope - ready to become a ship. The first thing was to print off Chuck’s instructions from the website and have them bound in a spiral notebook, something that will always be by my side along with my iPad to cross check what I’m doing with other build logs, So thanks in advance for the good ideas and experiences I’ll find and happily steal, I mean learn from. Next I laid out the frame and keel parts from the starter package and thought wow, there are a lot of bulkheads, and felt just a touch better about my first attempt at single planking. Then I remembered fairing and thought, wow, there are a lot of bulkheads… The starter package didn’t include the rabbet strip (as Chuck says, welcome to scratch building). For some reason I had the perfect 1/8 x 1/16 boxwood strip in my stock, one of the few remaining bits I had from our retired friend Jeff of HobbyMill fame. Then I wasted no time in stealing a good idea, so from BE’s log I used the waste from the hull billet to shape the rabbet strip at the bow, making it easier to install. With the two hull parts joined I glued on the rabbet strip using Tite Bond yellow wood glue, it sets up fast! I pre-positioned my rubber bands but I had to move quickly to center the strip. I have some brass gauges, the 1/16th size allowed me to quickly run the edges to get it centered. Next up, the bearding line, the keel and stem... Looking forward to comments and feedback. My log has begun.
  2. Welcome to my Cheerful build! Little did I know when I bought a Model Shipways longboat kit last summer that I’d get bitten by the ship building bug so seriously. I finished my longboat a couple of weeks ago (see here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10743-18th-century-longboat-by-erik-w-–-model-shipways-–-scale-148-first-wooden-ship-build-finished/?p=374717). I quickly realized that I missed putting time in daily working with my hands and building something. Aside from a Dremel, I currently don’t own any power tools suitable for modeling. So, with what Chuck offers for the Cheerful, and with the availability of a new Cheerful timbering package, with milled strip wood, from Jason at Crown Timberyard, I can build a POB ship with accurate plans, castello boxwood, and high quality rigging materials and fittings. I hope I’m able to hone the skills I developed on my longboat build, and do the Cheerful justice. Chuck, Mike (Stuntflyer), and Bob (rafine) have set the bar pretty high! Feel free to comment and offer constructive criticism. I realize how much better my longboat turned out with the input and advice from others. O.K. Time to stop typing and start building. I received my order from Chuck at Syren Ship Model Company last week, and my wood order from Jason at Crown Timberyard arrived yesterday. Here are a few photos of the raw materials . . . which will be slowly transformed into the HM Cheerful! Erik
  3. I actually started this build in April 2018 having had a few sidetracks along the way. Fortunately I had taken some build progress photos at various stages, as I am currently at the point of finishing the deck fittings, but that will be for a future post. This is my first attempt at a plank on frame model having only built solid hull kits from either Model Shipways or Bluejacket in the past. I consider myself a novice, at best, but I am extremely fortunate to be a member of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey and have had much help and guidance from the members along the way. Special thanks to Stuntflyer, TomShipModel, Kurt Johnson, and Chuck for there everlasting patience with a novice. With that said, here goes nothing ... Using the laser cut out as a template for the bend, I have a glass sheet that I use for insuring things are flat, the log wedges were the heaviest thing I had around at the time. You can't have enough of these small bar clamps in my opinion The peg board above was made to help with bends. The pegs are removable and can be positioned in various positions to get a desired bend. (I ended up using a very different method when it came to making plank bends.) I stole this cradle design from Kurt J. who was also building Cheerful. His is much cleaner and precise.
  4. Click on the tags in the title above (shown in black) for an instant list of all the build logs for that kit subject.
  5. This is from Chuck's new set of plans for the English Cutter Cheerful. While I'm waiting for the next update for my Echo Section, I ordered the plan set. I like the lines of the ship and since there is only one mast, I'm even happier. Aside from Chuck's long boat, I've not done any POB models, but since she will be fully planked, why not. Chuck puts almost as many bulkheads in as some stylized POF models out there. First up was buying the plywood for the spine and bulkheads. Lots of it in hobby shops and on line. ALERT: You only need one sheet of 12" x 48" quarter-inch material. Every piece easily fit with plenty of leftover material for fillers, etc. See pics. The material that I got is slightly over-sized so I'll run it thru the thickness sander before gluing on the patterns. Another tip on working with plywood. The good side should be UP cutting on a table saw. Use blue painters tape over every line to be cut (on both faces of the plywood) to prevent any tear-out. And use a good 80 TPI blade. There is not a chip on any cut I made so far. Cutting the slots for the bulkheads (B/H) over the spine will be critical. It's easy for Chuck with his new laser cutter, and careful layout is important if you're doing it with a saw. First off is determining a 90 degree line between the B/H slots and and the tops of the frames. I cut the patterns out by carefully cutting a line across the very top of each B/H pattern. Once the patterns are glued on each blank with the top edge flush with the edge of the plywood blank, I can use that side in my table saw sled to get a perfect 90 degree slot. For the spine (which has a curve to the bottom), I used the bottom of the plan sheet as a square reference to the slots in the spine. Maury
  6. After a false start in which I snapped off the bow extension when removing the bulkhead former from the sheet! Things seem to be going well now. The two sections of the bulkhead former were glued together and the rabbet strip glued in place. The stem pieces and the keel were sanded on their faces to remove laser car but the edges were left unsanded. The treenails were simulated as described by chuck using a 0.5 mm drill and filling with neutral filler. After a coat of wipe-on-polly they were glued to the bulkhead former and fitted well with out the need for fettling. As recommended by Chuck no laser char was remove from the bulkheads and all fitted firmly. Care was taken to retain each one square in all directions. The bow and port filler blocks are added. Next comes, for me, the challenging process of fairing the hull correctly I think I have a way to go yet but trial battens are beginning to look close. I am taking a rest now. I think patience is the key here I am a little concerned about taking too much of the stern as others report it getting too narrow here. John
  7. This will mark the beginning of my project to build the prototype for the Cutter Cheerful. The plans are completed and I am getting ready to release the plans in a few months. I will be building her out of Boxwood or possibly even Pau marfin. I havent decided. This project is a POB build as you can see from the details in the plans posted below. Its not a very cumbersome project with just a cutter rig to deal with. She is carvel planked and not Clinker planked. This is one of the reasons why I chose it as a subject. Once I have the skeleton built and the hull planked, the plans will be released. The remainder of the project is pretty straight forward and doesnt need much of an explanation. I just need to prove out the design concepts for the hull skeleton. It shouldnt take too long. I will be writing a monograph as I build her and posting it on my website for free download as well as here on MSW should folks want to read it. But as I stated, I wont need to finish the entire project to release the plans as they are really straight forward. At a 1/4" scale...the hull will be 28 inches long and 26" tall. A nice size yet built at a larger scale to show some great details. I am finally at a point with the Syren store where my inventory is quite full and I will be able to enjoy working on both the Winnie and the Cheerful for several hours each day. I just cant wait to get started. Having a laser cutter doesnt hurt either. It will save me much time. Chuck
  8. Hi All, Well the Winnie is in dry dock, I've finished the Cazador for my grandson, things have calmed down and now I'll start my build log for Chucks Syren Ship Model Company's HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 in 1:48 scale. The model will also be fully rigged. I plan on using a lot of Chucks available laser cut parts. Most of the wood used in the model will be boxwood except for the deck which will be holly and the bulkheads which are plywood. I know there are plenty of great Cheerful’s being built here and anything I do won't be different from those build. I've listed the build here as a scratch build but quite honestly with Chuck's laser cut parts it's a lot like a kit.The plans and practicum are Chuck’s usual splendid work. Easy to understand and very precise. Here are the laser cut bulkheads. The two halves of the bulkhead former weighted waiting for the glue to dry. The keel attached. All of the bulkheads added and drying. Lots a sanding to do next to fair the bulkheads.
  9. Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet. Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. Build log to follow once I begin.
  10. Welcome to my build of Chuck's HM Cutter Cheerful. Most of the parts will be scratch built. Others like the false keel, windlass, rigging material and blocks will be purchased directly from Chuck. The wood for this project (all sheet stock) was purchased from Jason at Crown Timberyard. The quality of his wood is excellent and I am looking forward to working with it. As with my other builds, there will be many new things to learn and I will rely heavily on the knowledge base from MSW to help guide me through the process. So please don't hesitate to post your comments along the way. Thanks!.
  11. I have never attempted a build log, but I think I will attempt one for Chuck’s Cheerful project. After partially completing 7 kits none of which are finished I found this opportunity to get away from the constraints of the kit building process. I also can avoid the rigging process that I must eventually tackle … but that for another day. The kit builds that are on hold are Kate Cory whaling brig, New Bedford whale boat, Bounty, Cutty Sark, Bounty Launch, Glad Tidings Pinky schooner, and Niagara Brig, Some are to the point of my dreaded rigging process. I am certain I’ll finish them if I live that long (72 years now). I recently received Chuck’s Keel and Bulkhead kit. Incredible quality! Five sheets of 1/4 inch plywood perfectly flat and skillfully cut. I could not be more pleased. I also received the plans Choosing to attempt scratch building the Cheerful Cutter I can work in a larger scale and attempt a simpler rigging. So on to the Cheerful build……
  12. Hi am starting with chuck's cheerful, the boxwood version I wil use chuck's yellow cedar for this prodjekt and also use chuck spilling metod with lining off hull. am working on the frames and at this time is dry fittet. started also with the boxwood keel parts Svein.erik
  13. HM Cutter Cheerful 1806- 1816 This is my new project following completion of the Pinnace and Long-boat kits. I have had this offering from Chuck's Syren stable, including the wood set, gathering dust beneath my workbench since 2016, and I have been collecting all the subsequent add-ons, and fittings as they have been issued. So I now have all the makings to hopefully do justice to the fine materials, fittings, and the beautiful plans produced by Chuck. A period now to organise the build, assimilate the instructions and read thro' logs of those who have gone before. A couple of holding pics of my last foray into cutter building some 30 years ago, a bashed version of the Mamoli kit at 1:72 scale. 3070 007 Still on display in my Dining room, uncased, but fairly easy to periodically clean, she remains one of my favourites. Regards, B.E. ps: I did show Mrs W the actual plans of Cheerful and pointed out the actual, not insubstantial size of the beast.; Fazed she was not in the least; what can possibly go wrong with her on-side .
  14. Yes, I have taken the plunge. I have been following the progress of this project from inception and cannot wait any longer. I ordered my plans last week so they should arrive soon (fingers crossed) and today I ordered the bulwark and keel kits from Chuck... Now how do I explain to my wife that yes we moved house 2 weeks ago and I don't yet have a workshop or area to build it... but' where there 's a will there is a way'....DIY and unpacking whilst multi tasking to create a workshop Happy days
  15. Greetings shipmates, I have decided, somewhat retrospectively, to show an abbreviated build log of Chuck’s Cutter Cheerful, which has been paused for the last few months while I work on other things. I hadn’t intended to document this build because there are already so many excellent logs here. My thinking was that I’m slightly beyond the “help me” stage but not yet at the “here’s how you should do it” stage for creating a build log - putting me in limbo land. So perhaps I can go forward with a “here’s how you shouldn’t do it” log. This will allow me to go back and examine the areas I can improve for the next Cheerful build, not to mention the possible benefit to others. But I am sorry I did not take a lot of photos. Instructions for this build. Chuck's instructions are the best I've encountered. Read them carefully, re-read them and you will be happy. Stage 1: Gun Ports & Planking 1. You simply cannot be too precise with the gun port frames. I was not. I will next time. When you are talking about a 1/64th inset from the planking it is important to get the line right. I used European boxwood for these, simply because I had a piece. Harder than Castello and pinker. Sorry,no pictures. 2. One must take the time to fair the bulkheads to perfection. While Chuck abundantly warns of this, and I had thought I’d done a decent job of it, there was one or two bulkheads near the stem on the port side that were slightly “high”. This resulted in me merrily sanding right through several planks. I replaced 4 or 5 of them (but could have done a better job of even that). 3. The planking is thin. Of course, it is adequate if you fair the bulkheads perfectly, otherwise… 4. The shape of the rabbet at the stem is important. If you want the planks to fit like a lock and key, take the time to shape it perfectly, it will pay off. It doesn’t take much figuring to know how to do that, just patience with a good file. 5. Bending Castello boxwood is a truly liberating experience. Easy peasy. The first time I’ve ever used it. Absolutely beautiful wood. 6. Learn how to read the plans properly. Forgetting that the plans represent a 3-dimensional model projected as 2-D will run you into trouble. Witness my first two planks below the wales at the stern on both sides. Too narrow. I had planked most of the hull before I woke up. So I left the whole thing as it was and somehow the rest of the planks forgave me and allowed me to end up approximately where I needed to be as I planked down the stern post. I can’t remember if I slipped an extra-wide plank in there to compensate. I think I did.
  16. Greetings everyone, and welcome to my first 'concurrent' build log, as I begin the semi-kit (or semi-scratch, depending on your point of view) build of the revenue cutter Cheerful, from Syren Ship Model Company (Chuck Passaro). I've chosen to place this log in the kit build section, since I am using laser cut parts from Syren for the 'back bone' - the former, keel, and bulkheads, as well as all the mini-kits that are available for the ship. This log is starting due to a set of materials that were put on sale in the trade section of this website, and I couldn't resist grabbing it, even though I have far too many kits on the shelf right now. Included in my purchase was everything that Syren produces for this ship except the new pump kit, along with what was apparently a custom wood order from Crown Timberyard with a Holly deck package and boxwood planking strips. As with my other current build log, the Picket Boat #1, this first post will be primarily for an index. The actual log begins in post #2 to follow. Section 1 - Constructing the backbone (former, keel, bulkheads). 1. The beginning - the former (false keel). 2. The keel. 3. Bulkhead start (side trip - beginning the windlass). 4. Bulkheads all on (side trip - windlass part 2). 5. Gunport sills - starboard side.
  17. This will be my version of Chuck's Cheerful. In addition to Chuck's prototype build log, there are already a couple of other logs started, and I'm sure there will be many more. It should be fun to work along with the others. While waiting for the lantern parts that I needed to complete Essex, I decided to jump the gun and begin Cheerful. Since I lack power tools, and am reluctant to cut all of the framing by hand, I chose to use Chuck's laser cut bulkhead and former set. They are as near to perfect as you can get. The ply is uniform and the fit is precise. It was a simple matter to assemble the structure. Being a creature of habit, I added bracing at the bulkhead-former joints, as I've always done. Chuck didn't do this, and I'm sure that it wasn't necessary. Before adding the bulkheads, but after adding the rabbet strip, I assembled and added the boxwood stem and keel. I will be doing the hull planking and fixtures and furniture in boxwood and the decking in holly. I obtained the boxwood from Crown Timberyard, and it looks great. I chose not to get the offered package, because it is entirely composed of wood sheets from which the strips must be cut. Once again, my lack of tools caused me to get the wood mostly in milled strips, with some sheets. I'm now starting to fair the hull. Bob
  18. I will be building Chuck Passaro's "Cheerful" as a very special gift to my ENT surgeon (Dr. Harold Pillsbury) in appreciation for his outstanding efforts in my ongoing fight with a serious life threatening infection of my left ear. I hope to be able to finish this and present it to him at the conclusion of my continued daily IV treatments as a complete surprise. "Dr. P" is a very special man, going far beyond normal efforts in my case.... Calls me at home after hours during the week to check on me and encourage my wife. At my last weekly appointment in his office, the man gave me a $250.00 pair of tiny alligator pliers because I had made a comment.... "What a neat rigging tool" they would be. His staff knows about this plan but they have all been sworn to secrecy.
  19. Hi I have been lurking on this forum since just after V2.0 came to life. I really love the ships that come to life on this forum, created by some very skilled and talented people. My hat off to all of you. :) (You know who you are) I believe that I have learned a lot by reading and watching. I did not say anything because I did not believe that I had anything to add. I have been doing a lot of scratch building of RC aircraft over the years and also enjoyed flying them. But after losing most of the use of my right thumb after a motorcycle accident I could not fly anymore. I have finally decided to take a plunge into the deep water. I have ordered Chuck's laser-cut short kit of the HMS Cheerful and I'm now waiting for it to arrive, should be here early to mid January 2016. I have already made a mistake Only after the order was shipped did I see that I could have ordered it in Swiss Pear - Bummer. (Chuck, I will be contacting you shortly again for the keel and transom parts in pear.) My plan is to build the Cheerful in different woods as I find ships build from contrasting woods to be subtle yet bold. A good example of this is the HMS Vulture by Dan Vadas. I want to build the keel, visible parts of the frames and rails in Swiss Pear. Planking is to be in Castello Boxwood and deck in Holly. Deck furniture will most probable be a mix of pear and boxwood. Well, that is it for now, back to waiting Cheers Deon Engelmann
  20. Hello everyone I decided to begin construction of Cherful
  21. Hi, after finishing the Banterer my father and I started to search for the next ship to build. We agreed that this time it should be something mall and easily to transport. After some research we agreed to built a cutter ordered for the Navy, the "Surly". She was the second and last cutter of the Cheerful class ordered to be armed with 10 18pdr Carronades and 2 6pdr long guns. We were quite surprised by the heavy caliber but plan copies we got from the National Maritime museum in Greenwich explicitly stated on the side view plan "... to be armed with 10 18 per Carronades and 2 6pdr guns ...." we started to contract the hull again in two parts (upper and lower) to allow for easy access to the mechanics and electronicsCurrently we finished coppering the hull and are working on the deck.
  22. It's time to muddy my boots and wade into the waters of logging my attempt at building the HM Cutter Cheerful by the Syren Ship Model Company. I fretted over several different ships to build. But in the end, it was an easy decision choosing this model, as Chuck Passaro's on-going log will certainly provide instruction for me like no other kit out there could approach. It won't be a scratch-build per se, however, although like any model there is a certain amount of that involved. I purchased the Cheerful plans along with the laser-cut bulkheads, keel, stem, and stern frames. I also purchased the windless mini kit, turned brass carronades and long guns, their carriages, plus the skylight mini-kit. That should help this novice builder's chances of success. All this is presently in-route for delivery. I have contacted Jason over at Crown Lumberyard and am ordering the complete Cheerful Castello Boxwood package...all sheets...as I'll cut my own planks (hey, that's scratch-building!) as needed when I line off the hull. That should provide plenty of wood for all the building. But I also have some real nice sheets of mahogany that I also plan to use as it suits me. OK, I've read many articles, followed along with many builds here. I think the best advice I've read anywhere is to slow down, and don't put any piece on the model until I'm satisfied...and to have fun. All I have is time, and I'm going to follow that advice. Hope you'll follow along.
  24. While waiting for more lumber to continue with Cheerful, I ordered the windlass kit from Chuck. It's very neatly organized and the pieces (50 +) are very small. The most impressive pieces IMO are the sprockets. I could never do them from scratch with the tools I have. For the sides of the barrel parts, the instructions just say to bevel them. I need to be more precise if I want it to look anywhere near as nice as Chuck's illustration. I cut a jig from some scrap to the exact angle of the eight pieces (22.5 degrees). For those interested, each angle for an (any) sided piece is determined by dividing the number of sides (8) into 360 degrees = 45. The bevel on each piece will be half of that number = 22.5 degrees so that when they mate, you get 45 degrees. By holding the barrel sides against the jig while moving it back and forth over a sanding stick results in the exact 22.5 degree bevel. I sanded them down to just being able to see the laser char on one edge, but when assembled, they were just a hair too wide. I think you have to sand to the point where the char is just no longer visible. Once sanded, I rubbed a pencil along the inside angle so I could see to line up when gluing to the octagonal end pieces. I started with section "C" as it is the largest part of the barrel and best for ramping up the learning curve. Holding the little pieces is tough. Maury

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