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  1. Hello, After finishing my Corel Vasa build in January 2017. I took the year off to help my wife with projects for the wedding of our daughter. (Of course, I did take the time to build a model of a Concord Stagecoach on the side!!) Back in January of this year, I purchased a Corel kit of the Real De France from the very nice people at Ages of Sail, with the intention of starting it right away. However, due to frozen pipes at my elderly parents home, I have spent the last few months with contractors, getting their house put back together. So now I am finally to get back into my hobby room! Here are some photos from the opening of the kit A couple of things I noticed about the kit. On the box cover, it says that the scale is 1:24, but in the instruction notes, it references the correct scale 1:60. The material in the kit seems to be of good quality. There is some plywood pieces included, so I might change these pieces out with some other wood for areas of the model that won't be painted. There are many pages of nicely detailed plans, which should make the build easier. The translations into English of the instruction booklet is not easy for me to follow, but re-reading it a few times brings things into focus! I don't know much about the Real De France, so I can't comment on how accurate the Corel plans are. If anybody can steer me to some other references or publications about the real ship, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank
  2. This will be my build of the Corel Resolution kit. I was attracted to this kit based on a build I saw at Model Ship Builder This is a Japanese site with many very nice models represented. I favor the natural wood/antique look with my models, so the style of this build serves as inspiration for what I hope to accomplish. I have a rather long winded prologue that follows, so feel free to skip to the actual build description that should show up down there somewhere… There has been some discussion here at MSW about the basis for this kit design. It is pretty much agreed there was no actual ship of this configuration named HMS Resolution. Resolution Solved There are some plans from the National Maritime Museum of a sloop named Ferrett ( 1711 ), a 10-gun single-masted, cutter-rigged Sloop.. We also found some plans drawn by Howard Chapelle, that are clearly based on the NMM plans, embellished somewhat, but matching the basic lines perfectly as far as I can tell. Corel appears to have used those lines, and embellished the ship even further, which I will discuss more as I go along, because I will not be incorporating some of those embellishments in my build. There is more. Chapelle drew another set of lines and wrote: “ Ferrett and Sharke “ ,with more detailed information pictured below. I assume Chapelle had access to some resources I haven’t been able to identify, or he speculated based on convention at the time. There are some plans of “ Shark ( 1732 ) “ from the NMM which say: “ A ketch-rigged 8-gun Sloop. “The lines are very similar to Ferrett, but not a 1 to 1 match. A major, but not the only difference, being two masts, which fits the “ketch “ designation. Corel calls the ship a ‘ cutter ‘ . I wondered what makes a sloop a “ sloop “, and found it was very ambiguous.. I settled on this from Wikipedia. In part: “ A sloop is a sailing boat with a single mast typically meaning one headsail in front of the mast, and one mainsail aft of (behind) the mast.” We also find: “ If the vessel has two or more headsails, the term cutter may be used, especially if the mast is stepped further towards the back of the boat.” On the other hand there are a lot of ships called sloops, that have two or three masts. I’m not uncomfortable with the designation of a cutter because the sail plan seems very similar to other cutters, as well as the notation on the NMM collection article which says :“ Cutter rigged sloop. “ The NMM plans say the length of the gun deck from rabbet to rabbet is 65 feet, while I calculate the scaled length of the Corel model at about 70.. I imagine the other dimensions will not match any better, but not an issue as far as I’m concerned. Chapelle provides some deck details in one of his drawings that differ significantly from what Corel calls for. Since there are no deck details on the NMM drawings of Ferrett, I would lean toward the Chapelle interpretation, but I may mix and match as I go along, and point it out when I deviate from the Corel plans. The two large grates do not look typical to me, and I will have to see what I will do with that deck space. I can’t resist the urge to also note, that in my research, I found a Sterling kit of Ferret on eBay.. It looks like it was probably based on the Chapelle drawings, but the deck plan seems a bit absurd with some sort of ship’s boat athwartship with no capstain or windlass. I have also found two Ferret kits from the Ideal Model Co.. One plastic, and the other wood. They both appear to be based on the Chapelle drawings. Continuing on, here is a brief rundown of the Corel kit contents. If anyone has any questions, I will do my best to provide an answer. The box art.. The framework is well done, but I have some modifications in mind, which I will document later. There is a generous fittings package. Unfortunately, the provided sailcloth is too heavy, and the flag set is un-usable.. I make my own rope, so the provided stuff is of no use to me. There are eight sheets of well drawn plans. The strip wood and dowels appear to be of good quality, but I will have to see what is usable as the build progresses. (To be continued.)
  3. My first attempt at a kit build I’ve used PVA glue with a dot of CA for clamping. Matt clear acrylic to the deck, masking the places where superstructures will be glued Gesso to the areas to be painted, preparatory to acrylic colours
  4. I am very glad to have found this website with, luckily for me, many build logs on the Wasa from Corel. I will use many of the tips and pictures posted in these logs for my guidance and as a example of what gifted modelbuilders can achieve. I have bought a 'used' model of the Wasa about a year ago for a low price. It was in a very bad shape and the modelbuilder (not the person from which I have bought the model) did some things really well, but other parts were absolutely desastrous. Also it had suffered from neglect and the masts were broken off. When I saw the model as it was at the time it became clear to me that I first had to do a lot of demolishing and then try to rebuild parts of it. Most notably was the bow section as it appeared that the previous builder had had problems with bending the wooden strips for planking that part of the hull. First some pictures of the model as it was 'before restoration':
  5. Started going over the instructions and list of materials before I begin this great ship.
  6. Build #3 First, a little background The Dragon Source: International Dragon Association The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker in 1929. The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe. In 1937 the Gold Cup was presented to the class by the Clyde Yacht Clubs Association. This quickly became one of the principal championships in the class and a prestigious trophy in the world of competitive yachting. LOA 8.9m Beam 1.95m Draugh 1.2m Displacement 1700kg (with mast) Mainsail 16m² Genoa 11.7m² Spinnaker 23.6m² The Olympic Years In 1948 the Dragon became an Olympic Class, a status it retained until the Munich/Kiel Olympics in 1972. It remains the only Olympic yacht ever to have a genuinely popular following outside the Games. Since the Olympics the Dragons have gone from strength to strength. The major reason for this has been the ongoing controlled development of the boat. In 1973 thanks to the hard work of Borge Borresen a G.R.P. specification was adopted, metal spars having been introduced in 1970. This proved to be a major milestone in the class's development. Designed from the first to compete on equal terms with the existing wooden boats, the GRP dragons are incredibly stiff - one reason why boats remain competitive at top level for years. More information: Scuttlebutt Sailing News – “Dragon Class – Stronger than Ever” SailboatData.com – “Dragon” SailingWeek.com – “ANTIGUA DRAGON YACHT CLUB CHALLENGE: MAY 8-9, 2017”
  7. Hi everybody ! As I mentioned on my new members introduction, I restarted my modeling hobby during this lockdown after many years of inactivity. Searching for a new plastic kit online, I found a really good opportunity to get a HMS Victory Corel model at a fraction of retail value. The price was so tempting and the model so challenging that I decided to buy it. It arrived home on August 28th, so it has been almost a month of great enjoyment. This is only my second wood model ship after the Artesania Latina's Swift. I was satisfied with the result, but planking it was really a nightmare. I hope this time I will do it much better with your advice. These are some pics of the first stage, setting the frames, keel, lower deck and longways beams; planking of the lower deck, construction of the stairs and setting of the lower deck gratings. Contrary to what I had read, all pieces fit together perfectly, and very little sanding and correcting was needed. I set the planks with the three-butt pattern, used a soft pencil to highlight the edges and used semi-gloss polyurethane varnish. Second stage picks will come soon. Any comment and advice are welcome!!! Eugenio.
  8. I am going to join the club of modelers constructing or having constructed the ship. Frankly speaking, their construction and kit reports (gimo, Bender, fmodair, schiffebastler) urged me to order the kit. Mainly the very sophisticated report of Frank (fmodair) increased my wish to build the ship. I do not have the skills of the others mentioned. Thus this blog is mainly to those who rely on the material provided by Corel. Content of the kit is well described in construction reports of the club members. Most of the material seems to be of good quality but I am already wondering how to amend the plywood pieces. As mentioned I will probably manly rely on the material provided by Corel. However I like to see the wood structure of the models implying that I will use color paint very rarely. We will see. It seems to me that although Corel put some efforts in the written instruction manual, there is still enough space for improving. False keel is a triple one and made of six pieces which have to be glued overlapping to produce a keel three layers thick. To keep the keel straight I fixed and clipped the parts of the keel flatly on a shell with a metal rail below the keel pieces. Since the lower line of the keel is deflecting, small wood wedges were put under the bow and stern side of the keel to get the distance from the metal rail (arrow). The get the three overlaying pieces in the correct position, small wood stripes 4x4 mm were put into the spaces for the frames/bulkheads. After gluing the keel, frames were dry (!) fitted by filing the slots of the keel and filing the slots of the frames. Bottom side and deck side of the keel was treated with wood filler and sanded. Frames, false deck, the pieces of the true keel and other supports were dry fitted. Some minor sanding had to be done for this. Next step will be tapering the keel and adusting the frames.
  9. Hello Everyone! I am starting a build log for the Wappen Von Hamburg kit from Corel. The start of my build comes with some back story as I am not the one who purchased the kit or started the build. A number of years back I was along for a family visit to my wife's grandfather. During the visit he took interest in my woodworking experience and asked if I would be willing to fix a few ships he had build years earlier that had been damaged. I enjoy models, tall ships, and a good challenge so I took them home and restored them as best I could. When returning the ships, I was presented with two kits and an assortment of tools and supplies that he felt should go to someone that would appreciate them. One of the kits was the Wappen and the other the Victory. The Wappen had been started and the Victory untouched. Life was too busy with work and family. The kits remained in storage for many years until recently. The adventure begins as I tackle what I understand to be a very complex and advanced kit as a complete novice. I look forward to documenting this journey and hopefully getting feedback and advice from those with more experience than I.
  10. Hi Folks, This is my first time here so hopefully everything will upload correctly! This model was started nearly two decades ago but ended up in the loft due to career changes and various other factors. Primarily the build was stopped because I became petrified of ruining the stern section in the absence of any real dimensions or detail. No one will be surprised I guess that, yes, this was my first model which I got at an engineering exhibition whilst displaying some metal. At the time of purchase a guy tapped me on the shoulder and asked me that same question. He said I was looking at at least three years and in anycase shouldn't I start something simpler! His words came back to haunt me later..... Anyways, having found this wonderful website, here I am about to restart the build having found suitable drawings and other info from far and wide. My sincere thanks go to fellow member Grant Dale who started the ball rolling again and gave me the incentive to bash on. I won't say anything about the Corel drawings or the translated instructions as for more experienced people they're probably fine. My other sources now are; McKay,Longridge,Underhill,Roth and Dressel. My local printer has very patiently enlarged some 1/92 detail for me and I now have enough 1:98 drawings to check out the stern below the galleries. These were 'lifted' by the way by enlarging to 195.5% and seem spot on and agree more favourably with the Corel ones. My intention now is to make up some templates for the carving checks and take my time over getting this aspect right. I cannot honestly say how often I shall post but at each significant stage I will. Meanwhile 'management' keeps telling me they built the real one in around six years! Left hand down a bit! Cheers, Chris
  11. I'm officially starting my first build. My wife was so kind in giving me this kit for Christmas, I really love the lines of this ship. I just hope I can deliver. The parts are just dry fitted together. It took a lot of filing to get them together. Not going to use any glue just yet. I need to check the decks for alignment first. Please feel free to give advice. I'm open to all help. Thanks. 🙂
  12. I have always wanted to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale. I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated. some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs
  13. March 21/21. Here is the build so far. I built the anchors and the anchor supports and completed the ropes and pulleys. I completed the anchor winch. On the lifeboat deck I completed and installed the lifeboat supports and the grating underneath. I built two topside cannons and rigged them to the side of the ship. This is my build so far. B. Edward
  14. Hi I am a new ship modeler from Lithuania. There is a second model of my ship (the first was Corel Company VASA). In my country are many people (about 2 million), so there are many people who make ship models, there are many company's which sells ship model kits. The most serious company in Lithuania is COREL. So I doing this company ship models. Now I'm doing COREL - WAPPEN VON HANBURG. This is Corel company's most expensive and sophisticated set of ships. I want to say that COREL kits are complex. But I like this company because the quality of the materials is good. I think it will be difficult to make this ship model because the first deck cannons have to be installed before the taller decks can be made and the sides of the ship glued. Swiss. Therefore, ground-floor cannons may be broken.
  15. HMS Victory - 1st build 25 years ago I bought this kit from Corel as I have always been curious on modelships. The first couple of years I managed to build the hull of the ship and but when I when it was time to start with the masts I lost interest in the project. I picked it up a few times over the years but it was always just for a few days. Probably I should have started on a simplier first build but when you are young and naive you tend to aim for the sky. Now I am destined to complete this build and I have also started on another ship to give it some variation. I just recently found this forum and maybe you guys can inspire me to ensure I complete it. Since its my first ship I am far from the skills of what I have seen here. History According to Wikipedia, HMS Victory is a 104-gun first-rate ship of the line of the Royal Navy, ordered in 1758, laid down in 1759 and launched in 1765. She is best known for her role as Lord Nelson's flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar on 21 October 1805. She additionally served as Keppel's flagship at Ushant, Howe's flagship at Cape Spartel and Jervis's flagship at Cape St Vincent. After 1824, she was relegated to the role of harbour ship. In 1922, she was moved to a dry dock at Portsmouth, England, and preserved as a museum ship. She has been the flagship of the First Sea Lord since October 2012 and is the world's oldest naval ship still in commission, with 241 years' service as of 2019. The kit This is one of the cheaper and smaller Victory kits. The wood was very good especially the walnut. Lots pre made stuff in the box. Some of the details are made in some kind of pressed woodenmass/paper which makes Nice details but kind of not the buildquality you want. Canons and gunports are pre made and may not look perfect but is easy to assemble for the beginner. Very few pre made parts for the masts and yards. I like that there are many plans and that the are reasonable in size. But the manual and instructions are quite bad.
  16. My Corel Ranger arrived in the post a couple of days ago, and this is my first build. I bought this kit because it was listed as a beginner kit by the online supplier, and I liked the look of it. That was basically it, and I didn't join MSW till after I'd placed the order. So now I know @Cathead, @mattsayers148, @trippwj, @Woodmiester12, @Small Stuff all have tackled this before me (hope I've not not missed anyone) and I've also found https://modelshipworld.com/topic/18657-new-to-ship-modelling-but-what-do-you-build-first/ which suggests Corel might not have been the best choice for a complete newbie. I did consider getting something simpler, but since the kit arrived and I've opened it up, I've decided to crack on. What could possibly go wrong? I figure I can always park it if it gets too much. So this log will be from the perspective of a complete beginner, hopefully it will help someone as inexperienced as I. Step one: open the box. My first impression was was that there were fewer 'bits' than I expected, but there is no parts list. And most of them aren't numbered. The very first sentence in the instruction manual has set the scene, "Glue lath 13 to the bottom of the keel 12". I guess we're not in Ikea anymore. It seems that this is a fictional ship, and is only based on cutters of the period. I think this is probably good news for me. This is more of a learning experience for me than anything else, so I don't have to be too faithful to any particular vessel. I also see that the box and instruction manual say the scale is 1:50, while the plans say 1:64. From other build logs, it seems 1:64 is correct. Not sure yet exactly what challenges this is going to throw up. A bit of arithmetic, presumably I've not attempted any building yet, still just getting a feel for what the kit comprises, going through the instructions and reading up on the build logs here. This might take a while, but that's fine by me. I'm in no rush. By pure coincidence, the same day my Corel Ranger arrived my 12 year old daughter brought home her first ever project from her Technical Studies class at school. She's very pleased with it and I shall keep it beside me for inspiration...
  17. I once had a build log of my Prins Willem here on MSW. I also had a backup of it on my PC. Some months ago I deleted that one.... I wish I hadn't done so I will try to recreate some of it over the next weekends. Perhaps that will give me some inspiration to continue her rigging, as I haven't done much over that last months. Jan
  18. La Couronne by Kurt Suleski - Corel - Scale 1:100 - 1636 - First wooden ship build Hello everyone! Like my father before me, I sailed merchant ships as an Engineering Officer, and have always loved square riggers. After eight years living aboards ship, seawater still flows in my veins twenty-five years later. I built several plastic ones as a boy, and now am returning to the hobby decades later, this time with experience in medieval weapon and armour smithing, carpentry, machining and other trade skills. A decision had to be made as to which era of sailing ship to choose. The 17th century royal great ships peaked my interest because of their embellishment and style, set apart from the advanced, refined warships of the Lord Admiral Nelson's time. So, the first ship, what I consider my training vessel, is La Couronne c. 1636. It's an ambitious ship for a novice such as myself. EJ's La Couronne build on the Nautical Research Guild was an inspiration, and his build log serves me well as a guide, since plans alone are not sufficient for a first time project. I also purchased Deagostini's Sovereign of the Seas, all packages, and am saving that for building closer to retirement in 10-13 years. The challenge of the small scale of 1:100 of La Couronne is rather high, trying to include the level of detail I desire, plus the addition of either full or battle sails. Silkspan is the material that is planned to use for the sails. I hope I don't tear them to ribbons in the process! A ship isn't complete without sails, no matter that they block some of the view of the deck equipment. La Couronne so far is about 50% done, with the additions of: properly scaled 18 pound, 9 pound, and 6 pound bronze cannons, use of Falkonet small 2mm blocks instead of the monster blocks supplied with the kit, cannon carriages of walnut instead of dummy barrels, internal circuit board with flickering candle effect LED lights for upper gun deck stern and side galleries and turrets, and of course, stern lanterns. Below is a link to 264 photos (an growing) of the progress of the build, every step of the way, all numbered to allow one to see the progress in order. I would treasure your comments and suggestions on how to steer this build in the direction of perfection, or questions as how features of this model were chosen and performed. All of you who have posted your own builds have unwittingly educated me in this build every step of the way. Best wishes! Kurt Suleski DARIVS ARCHITECTVS (Latin for Darius the Engineer) La Couronne Build Photos
  19. Yes another American who wanted to build Victory before even knowing about MSW. I actually did not realize how popular an idea it was. But my knowledge of history Included Nelson at Trafalgar and it never went out of my mind. I decided to purchase the Corel Victory kit from Cornwall at the suggestion of Keith. I will not be posting very much for a while. It will take time to size this kit up and understand within reason where I am going. Any ideas about starting are welcome.
  20. Bought this very old Corel Unicorn kit for pennies a while back....whilst doing the rigging on Bellona, I need something else to do as rigging gets on my nerves. Will post some pics soon.
  21. This is my second boat model. Mostly I picked it because I've crewed on a 90' Baltic gaff-rigged schooner and loved the idea of red sails. This kit comes in four languages. It appears the English part was translated by someone whose English was their second language. "Sandpaper" was written as "Glass paper." Perhaps because glass is made from sand? Anyway I'm enjoying it because there is lots of leeway and forgiveness. I had to make some changes because they apparently designed it on paper and some things simply did not work. Like the spar hoist went two-block and the sail was too big. As for the Red Sales, it came with white. So I purchased a bundle of red shop rags and soaked the rags and sails for a few days to turn them red. Now quite enough, so I soaked the 'pink' sails in some red wine. Just right. My hand isn't all that steady so when it came to painting the blue and black lines, I cheated and used tape. (Does this make me a bad person?) I have a question in another section as to why the mainsail has only 3 rings to the mast, and up high; and no boom downhaul. The sails came white; so I purchased a bundle of red shop rags from Home Depot and placed them all in a bucket of water for a day. That gave me, well, pink ("It's a girl!") so I used half a bottle of red wine (the cheap stuff) and got the colors below. Port gunnel was cut, shaped glued, as per instructions. For the Starboard, I used a flat board and a bunch of screws and made a curve. I used the full length and boiled it in water for 20-minutes, and curved it. Two broke, but the last one worked well. Gaff lifting block too close, so I have to move the rigging up. The kit ran out of rope for sewing around the sails. Had to get more rope.. I spaced out the three rings because the pictures had them all too high. I added a down haul. I did all this because the schooner I sailed on worked like that. Us old guys don't have steady hands for painting lines. (I did on full size boats) so I cheated and used tape. Now I have to make the oars and repaint the bottom.
  22. Well, here we go. Thanks to invaluable advice on my members introduction page I've managed to start construction.
  23. Hi there, Welcome to my building log. Resumed the building this year and wanted to share some of learnings. More pictures than words:) This is my first build and i have obtained plenty of useful information from this forum. 1. Align frames straight and sand them properly and smoothly which will make much easier for planking 2. Use the first layer of planking as practice. Measure the gap and do some math. In short, the middle is much wider than the front and end. There are several videos in YouTube that i found helpful for planking. i would suggest to finish one plank in the center and start from the bottom 3. Mark the position of the gunport. Cut the gunport after the first layer of planking is completed (this is different from the manual) 4. Spend more time on the second layer of planking and try to avoid small gaps between planks. if you do have gaps you can use wood fill or scratch wood to fill it in 5. Buy different grades of sand papers, sand blocks, pins, clamps, super glue gel (better than liquid), knife blades, stains, etc. It may take a bit longer for the next update. Cheers, F
  24. Hello, I am not very good in English, but I can give it a try I am already building for almost 7 months. Only pictures can show what I did already... I am not a professionel, this is just my second boat.
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