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Found 120 results

  1. This will be my build of the Corel Resolution kit. I was attracted to this kit based on a build I saw at Model Ship Builder This is a Japanese site with many very nice models represented. I favor the natural wood/antique look with my models, so the style of this build serves as inspiration for what I hope to accomplish. I have a rather long winded prologue that follows, so feel free to skip to the actual build description that should show up down there somewhere… There has been some discussion here at MSW about the basis for this kit design. It is pretty much agreed there was no actual ship of this configuration named HMS Resolution. Resolution Solved There are some plans from the National Maritime Museum of a sloop named Ferrett ( 1711 ), a 10-gun single-masted, cutter-rigged Sloop.. We also found some plans drawn by Howard Chapelle, that are clearly based on the NMM plans, embellished somewhat, but matching the basic lines perfectly as far as I can tell. Corel appears to have used those lines, and embellished the ship even further, which I will discuss more as I go along, because I will not be incorporating some of those embellishments in my build. There is more. Chapelle drew another set of lines and wrote: “ Ferrett and Sharke “ ,with more detailed information pictured below. I assume Chapelle had access to some resources I haven’t been able to identify, or he speculated based on convention at the time. There are some plans of “ Shark ( 1732 ) “ from the NMM which say: “ A ketch-rigged 8-gun Sloop. “The lines are very similar to Ferrett, but not a 1 to 1 match. A major, but not the only difference, being two masts, which fits the “ketch “ designation. Corel calls the ship a ‘ cutter ‘ . I wondered what makes a sloop a “ sloop “, and found it was very ambiguous.. I settled on this from Wikipedia. In part: “ A sloop is a sailing boat with a single mast typically meaning one headsail in front of the mast, and one mainsail aft of (behind) the mast.” We also find: “ If the vessel has two or more headsails, the term cutter may be used, especially if the mast is stepped further towards the back of the boat.” On the other hand there are a lot of ships called sloops, that have two or three masts. I’m not uncomfortable with the designation of a cutter because the sail plan seems very similar to other cutters, as well as the notation on the NMM collection article which says :“ Cutter rigged sloop. “ The NMM plans say the length of the gun deck from rabbet to rabbet is 65 feet, while I calculate the scaled length of the Corel model at about 70.. I imagine the other dimensions will not match any better, but not an issue as far as I’m concerned. Chapelle provides some deck details in one of his drawings that differ significantly from what Corel calls for. Since there are no deck details on the NMM drawings of Ferrett, I would lean toward the Chapelle interpretation, but I may mix and match as I go along, and point it out when I deviate from the Corel plans. The two large grates do not look typical to me, and I will have to see what I will do with that deck space. I can’t resist the urge to also note, that in my research, I found a Sterling kit of Ferret on eBay.. It looks like it was probably based on the Chapelle drawings, but the deck plan seems a bit absurd with some sort of ship’s boat athwartship with no capstain or windlass. I have also found two Ferret kits from the Ideal Model Co.. One plastic, and the other wood. They both appear to be based on the Chapelle drawings. Continuing on, here is a brief rundown of the Corel kit contents. If anyone has any questions, I will do my best to provide an answer. The box art.. The framework is well done, but I have some modifications in mind, which I will document later. There is a generous fittings package. Unfortunately, the provided sailcloth is too heavy, and the flag set is un-usable.. I make my own rope, so the provided stuff is of no use to me. There are eight sheets of well drawn plans. The strip wood and dowels appear to be of good quality, but I will have to see what is usable as the build progresses. (To be continued.)
  2. Yes another American who wanted to build Victory before even knowing about MSW. I actually did not realize how popular an idea it was. But my knowledge of history Included Nelson at Trafalgar and it never went out of my mind. I decided to purchase the Corel Victory kit from Cornwall at the suggestion of Keith. I will not be posting very much for a while. It will take time to size this kit up and understand within reason where I am going. Any ideas about starting are welcome.
  3. I am very glad to have found this website with, luckily for me, many build logs on the Wasa from Corel. I will use many of the tips and pictures posted in these logs for my guidance and as a example of what gifted modelbuilders can achieve. I have bought a 'used' model of the Wasa about a year ago for a low price. It was in a very bad shape and the modelbuilder (not the person from which I have bought the model) did some things really well, but other parts were absolutely desastrous. Also it had suffered from neglect and the masts were broken off. When I saw the model as it was at the time it became clear to me that I first had to do a lot of demolishing and then try to rebuild parts of it. Most notably was the bow section as it appeared that the previous builder had had problems with bending the wooden strips for planking that part of the hull. First some pictures of the model as it was 'before restoration':
  4. La Couronne by Kurt Suleski - Corel - Scale 1:100 - 1636 - First wooden ship build Hello everyone! Like my father before me, I sailed merchant ships as an Engineering Officer, and have always loved square riggers. After eight years living aboards ship, seawater still flows in my veins twenty-five years later. I built several plastic ones as a boy, and now am returning to the hobby decades later, this time with experience in medieval weapon and armour smithing, carpentry, machining and other trade skills. A decision had to be made as to which era of sailing ship to choose. The 17th century royal great ships peaked my interest because of their embellishment and style, set apart from the advanced, refined warships of the Lord Admiral Nelson's time. So, the first ship, what I consider my training vessel, is La Couronne c. 1636. It's an ambitious ship for a novice such as myself. EJ's La Couronne build on the Nautical Research Guild was an inspiration, and his build log serves me well as a guide, since plans alone are not sufficient for a first time project. I also purchased Deagostini's Sovereign of the Seas, all packages, and am saving that for building closer to retirement in 10-13 years. The challenge of the small scale of 1:100 of La Couronne is rather high, trying to include the level of detail I desire, plus the addition of either full or battle sails. Silkspan is the material that is planned to use for the sails. I hope I don't tear them to ribbons in the process! A ship isn't complete without sails, no matter that they block some of the view of the deck equipment. La Couronne so far is about 50% done, with the additions of: properly scaled 18 pound, 9 pound, and 6 pound bronze cannons, use of Falkonet small 2mm blocks instead of the monster blocks supplied with the kit, cannon carriages of walnut instead of dummy barrels, internal circuit board with flickering candle effect LED lights for upper gun deck stern and side galleries and turrets, and of course, stern lanterns. Below is a link to 264 photos (an growing) of the progress of the build, every step of the way, all numbered to allow one to see the progress in order. I would treasure your comments and suggestions on how to steer this build in the direction of perfection, or questions as how features of this model were chosen and performed. All of you who have posted your own builds have unwittingly educated me in this build every step of the way. Best wishes! Kurt Suleski DARIVS ARCHITECTVS (Latin for Darius the Engineer) La Couronne Build Photos
  5. Hello, After finishing my Corel Vasa build in January 2017. I took the year off to help my wife with projects for the wedding of our daughter. (Of course, I did take the time to build a model of a Concord Stagecoach on the side!!) Back in January of this year, I purchased a Corel kit of the Real De France from the very nice people at Ages of Sail, with the intention of starting it right away. However, due to frozen pipes at my elderly parents home, I have spent the last few months with contractors, getting their house put back together. So now I am finally to get back into my hobby room! Here are some photos from the opening of the kit A couple of things I noticed about the kit. On the box cover, it says that the scale is 1:24, but in the instruction notes, it references the correct scale 1:60. The material in the kit seems to be of good quality. There is some plywood pieces included, so I might change these pieces out with some other wood for areas of the model that won't be painted. There are many pages of nicely detailed plans, which should make the build easier. The translations into English of the instruction booklet is not easy for me to follow, but re-reading it a few times brings things into focus! I don't know much about the Real De France, so I can't comment on how accurate the Corel plans are. If anybody can steer me to some other references or publications about the real ship, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank
  6. Bought this very old Corel Unicorn kit for pennies a while back....whilst doing the rigging on Bellona, I need something else to do as rigging gets on my nerves. Will post some pics soon.
  7. Hi Folks, This is my first time here so hopefully everything will upload correctly! This model was started nearly two decades ago but ended up in the loft due to career changes and various other factors. Primarily the build was stopped because I became petrified of ruining the stern section in the absence of any real dimensions or detail. No one will be surprised I guess that, yes, this was my first model which I got at an engineering exhibition whilst displaying some metal. At the time of purchase a guy tapped me on the shoulder and asked me that same question. He said I was looking at at least three years and in anycase shouldn't I start something simpler! His words came back to haunt me later..... Anyways, having found this wonderful website, here I am about to restart the build having found suitable drawings and other info from far and wide. My sincere thanks go to fellow member Grant Dale who started the ball rolling again and gave me the incentive to bash on. I won't say anything about the Corel drawings or the translated instructions as for more experienced people they're probably fine. My other sources now are; McKay,Longridge,Underhill,Roth and Dressel. My local printer has very patiently enlarged some 1/92 detail for me and I now have enough 1:98 drawings to check out the stern below the galleries. These were 'lifted' by the way by enlarging to 195.5% and seem spot on and agree more favourably with the Corel ones. My intention now is to make up some templates for the carving checks and take my time over getting this aspect right. I cannot honestly say how often I shall post but at each significant stage I will. Meanwhile 'management' keeps telling me they built the real one in around six years! Left hand down a bit! Cheers, Chris
  8. I am going to join the club of modelers constructing or having constructed the ship. Frankly speaking, their construction and kit reports (gimo, Bender, fmodair, schiffebastler) urged me to order the kit. Mainly the very sophisticated report of Frank (fmodair) increased my wish to build the ship. I do not have the skills of the others mentioned. Thus this blog is mainly to those who rely on the material provided by Corel. Content of the kit is well described in construction reports of the club members. Most of the material seems to be of good quality but I am already wondering how to amend the plywood pieces. As mentioned I will probably manly rely on the material provided by Corel. However I like to see the wood structure of the models implying that I will use color paint very rarely. We will see. It seems to me that although Corel put some efforts in the written instruction manual, there is still enough space for improving. False keel is a triple one and made of six pieces which have to be glued overlapping to produce a keel three layers thick. To keep the keel straight I fixed and clipped the parts of the keel flatly on a shell with a metal rail below the keel pieces. Since the lower line of the keel is deflecting, small wood wedges were put under the bow and stern side of the keel to get the distance from the metal rail (arrow). The get the three overlaying pieces in the correct position, small wood stripes 4x4 mm were put into the spaces for the frames/bulkheads. After gluing the keel, frames were dry (!) fitted by filing the slots of the keel and filing the slots of the frames. Bottom side and deck side of the keel was treated with wood filler and sanded. Frames, false deck, the pieces of the true keel and other supports were dry fitted. Some minor sanding had to be done for this. Next step will be tapering the keel and adusting the frames.
  9. ***NOTE - in January 2016, I decided to close this build log. I'll be building the Lyme as a new scratch build using the NMM plans, rather than try to bash the Corel Unicorn kit*** ***NOTE - in August 2014, I decided to build the HMS Lyme, the sister ship to the Unicorn, by bashing the Corel Unicorn kit. So, the log until then will be referring a lot to the Unicorn*** Hi my friends, now that I finished the Badger, I'm moving onto my second build, which will be the Corel Unicorn. The kit is scale 1:75, which ends up being approximately 33" in length and 29" in height, and some sites rate it as an "intermediate level" build. It doesn't look like it is too complicated a kit, but I plan to attempt a number of enhancements to the build which should raise the difficulty a bit. I was sold on the kit after coming across my friend Ian Major's beautiful build on here, so I blame him for my foray into this model -- hopefully my build comes out half as well as his In addition to Ian, ZyZux and Ollyweb have build logs on here, and Petervisser has a completed Unicorn in the completed kits gallery - so, plenty of good company as I no doubt will need help along the way. As other builders of the kit will tell you, it looks like Corel was very confused about the history of the Unicorn. Not only does the box imply the ship was built in 1790, but in the instructions, Corel says that Fredrik Henrik af Chapman designed the ship in 1700. Only problem is that Chapman was born in 1721 The instructions are correct that the "Architectura Navalis Mercatoria," which reproduces 62 plates from Chapman's ship engineering work (including the Unicorn), was published in Stockholm in 1768. Not only do the instructions have the history wrong, but the design of the ship with the narrow waist seems to be incorrect according to the frigate history outlined in Robert Gardiner's "The Sailing Frigate." In any event, the inaccuracies of the kit are well documented in the MSW link below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2444-quality-of-corel-kits/ The Lyme and the Unicorn actually played an important part in British naval history. According to Gardiner's "The Sailing Frigate," the Lyme and the Unicorn were the first "true frigates." During the 1740s, the fifth and sixth rate vessels in the British navy were deemed inadequate, so it was decided that the navy would copy a captured French ship. British 24s had a heavily framed full-height lower deck while their French counterparts had a light platform lower deck with reduced headroom positioned just below the waterline (which compressed the height of the topside) along with an unarmed quarterdeck and forecastle and minimal barricades or rails. According to Gardiner, the fine lines and light framing made for fast and weatherly ships. The British ultimately copied the lines of the privateer Tygre, and launched the Lyme and the Unicorn in 1748 (these were referred to as the Lyme class). Apparently, the design was of such great success, that eventually 20 ships were built of this design. Some other tidbits in the Wikipedia links below: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Lyme_(1748) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Unicorn_(1748)
  10. Coming to a model ship world near you soon.
  11. Hello again, my friends. I´ve come back to show you a new project I intend to see through in less time than the last ones. It´s funny to perceive we may be away from the shipyard for some time, but it still calls us rightly into it´s arms. So, to begin with, a presentation of the kit´s content, followed by impressions and the reason why my title has a "modified" in it. The box is a strong one, better than Artesania Latina´s Red Dragon box, with some info in it, pretty default. On openning it we can see that magic things that makes us happy and going. The plans are simple, but precise, there are no much more to say about them. There are lots of castings, all the fittings, a beautiful sailcloth with a venetian flag. The woods seems ok, love their smell - some Mahogany, walnut and lime tree. Have to say this was the most anticipated model from the ones I´ve bought, since its larger and have a greater rope work - it also goes in the direction I want to move for the next types of ships I want to build. After this one I plan on starting a plank on frame "Nao de Mataró" for which I´ve been researching for quite a good time. About the ship: "Many ships are also referred to as ‘coca’, ‘cocha’ or ‘cocche’. This sounds very similar to the Dutch word ‘kog’ (cog or cock-boat). This is no coincidence. According to the Florentine chronicler Giovanni Villani (1277-1348) the first West European cogs arrived in the Mediterranean Sea in 1304. He writes: “Certain people from Bayone in Gascogne entered the Strait of Gibraltar in 1304 as pirates, in their ships called cogs, and caused huge damage. But the Genoese, the Venetians and the Catalonians then started copying the ship.” So the northern method of building ships was introduced to the Mediterranean in the 14th century. What were the differences southern and northern European shipbuilding? In the Mediterranean ships were traditionally built with a triangular lateen sail and a side rudder. The cog on the other hand was clinker-built, square-rigged, and had a rear rudder. The Mediterranean and West European shipbuilding traditions are actually merged in the coca. The coca is clinker-built with rear rudder, one or two masts, and square rigged." As the present kit intends to give us a 16th century ship, I begun my research so I could turn it a bit older. I tried to buy a book on the subject, refered to by a member from this distinctive site, but couldn´t either because it was over on Amazon and on the italian online bookstores (I even paid for one, but got the money back - I wanted the book!). So, I decided on researching online as much as I could to fill the gaps - I want it to be a 15th century ship - Already read there are no great changes trough that period of time, but, any help is always welcome. Other things I´ve got to modify - no castings on windows and doors - those will be wooden made and may have other materials as I see fit to close the gap in time - don´t know if the small boat which cames with it would have existed at the 1400´s, so, maybe it won´t be part of the ship. The crow´s nest is too simple, so, I´ll scratch a new one. Various frames will be cut so I can make room for cabins, cargo holders and such - I´ll try to put some lights on, if I find space - 1-70 scale is a little small for me, but I may get it done. The rudder is plywood, don´t know if I´ll be using it, too. That´s it for the time being. I´ve already started this one 2 years ago, but as things got messed up, had to hold it. Now, I think I can make it to the end.
  12. I have been working on this build for two-and-a-half years. I have followed harlequin's build all along. His work is excellent and solved several problems I've had. This is my second build; HMS Surprise-Mamoli was the first. After decades of plastic models, I switched to wood because I wanted a change of material and history topics. The pictures show the current state of things. The spars are also done. I'm waiting for a set of pre-built sails to arrive from Europe. I want to attach them in furled position to the spars and then mount the spars.
  13. I have always wanted to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale. I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated. some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs
  14. This is my first build of a model wooden ship. I chose the Endeavour as it is part of our nations discovery, and plenty of others being built to see gather tips and trips for the build. I am using 2 pack epoxy glue(no nails) for all the timber to timber joining. From what I have seen, the build may take years, and just as well I have started now, plenty of time to finish in retirement - when it comes. Enough waffle, some pictures and see where this goes.
  15. The Sovereign of the Seas has been completed, The Wappen von Hamburg's box has been moved to the shed (AKA the Boatyard) and all tools have been cleaned. I guess it is time to get started. For the past several weeks I have been admiring fifteen large format images of Corel's Wappen von Hamburg that I found on the internet. As inspiration I printed out 3 of the pictures, framed them, and hung them on the wall in the boatyard. (They can be seen in the picture above) The build is perfect and exhibits the kind of workmanship I have always hoped to achieve. Today, I went back to the site and actually read the text. Imagine my surprise when I read that it took the builder thirteen years and eight thousand hours to complete the build. Right from the start I know I won't spend that amount of time, but I will do the best job I can. The link to the site is; http://www.modelships.de/Wappen_von_Hamburg_I_1/Wappen_von_Hamburg_I_1eng.htm Time to take inventory and look over the instructions
  16. Started going over the instructions and list of materials before I begin this great ship.
  17. Build #3 First, a little background The Dragon Source: International Dragon Association The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker in 1929. The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe. In 1937 the Gold Cup was presented to the class by the Clyde Yacht Clubs Association. This quickly became one of the principal championships in the class and a prestigious trophy in the world of competitive yachting. LOA 8.9m Beam 1.95m Draugh 1.2m Displacement 1700kg (with mast) Mainsail 16m² Genoa 11.7m² Spinnaker 23.6m² The Olympic Years In 1948 the Dragon became an Olympic Class, a status it retained until the Munich/Kiel Olympics in 1972. It remains the only Olympic yacht ever to have a genuinely popular following outside the Games. Since the Olympics the Dragons have gone from strength to strength. The major reason for this has been the ongoing controlled development of the boat. In 1973 thanks to the hard work of Borge Borresen a G.R.P. specification was adopted, metal spars having been introduced in 1970. This proved to be a major milestone in the class's development. Designed from the first to compete on equal terms with the existing wooden boats, the GRP dragons are incredibly stiff - one reason why boats remain competitive at top level for years. More information: Scuttlebutt Sailing News – “Dragon Class – Stronger than Ever” SailboatData.com – “Dragon” SailingWeek.com – “ANTIGUA DRAGON YACHT CLUB CHALLENGE: MAY 8-9, 2017”
  18. Hi, I begin to try to form my build log and to upload first photos of my Frigate Berlin. I have not any experience to do these and I expect to succeed. The pixel quality is low but it will be better. In fact, I have begun this kit app. ten years ago, after 6-7 months of working on, I have left it at somewhere in my house. But whenever I saw it, I was feeling a fever to start again... Year 2010, then I overcame... The photos I have taken are belonging to the second period of my work. These photo are test for uploading... See you soon...
  19. Another purchase off eBay. It’s obviously an older kit judging by the metal. i thought it was amusing that in another purchase i found a model expo ad for this exact kit dated 1995... anyways, it looks like a good time so here we go again.
  20. I bought this kit many, many years ago as I was always drawn to it, knew my skills at that time were not up to the task. While I built other, simpler kits, this one always drew me back. Then, one day, I saw it advertised on Model Expo at a 'close-out' price I could not refuse. So, a few days later, a rather large, extremely heavy box was left at my door. Upon opening, I realized that my skill was still not up to what it should be, so in the closet it went. Now is time to build this beautiful ship, so hope those that have built one will chime in with some hints and tips, and those that feel this is a 'someday' build will follow along. So here we go. All the wood is very high quality walnut and ply and appears to be more than ample supplies. Many pieces are precut which may or maynot be a good thing. All parts are indicated, though scattered, on the seven plan sheets. My only gripe so far, is the horrid gun carriages-I have already decided that most, if not all the carriages will have to be built. Even after time spent in storage, the only precut frame to be un-warped was the false keel, which was steamed and clamped for several days. At this point, nothing has been glued as I am still pre-fitting the frames and 1st deck level as this will dictate how the rest of the build will go. All the gunports and other openings are well marked on the wood and will be cut out prior to any actual assembly. I will show the parts as I prepare them for use, rather than try to show all the parts at once. Michael
  21. I started working on the Eagle again and thought I would post some pictures to my build log. That’s when I noticed the Model Ship World had changed and I would have to start a new log. I want to say the update looks great. Well, first I guess I will post my old photos and get everything back. I started the Eagle a good time ago and stopped a couple times. The kit is nice, but I did do a little bit a bashing. I changed up the guns a bit and got rid of gun carriages for the carronades that came with the kit and made my own. I also made the stern davits for the boat I made. Other than those small changes, I followed the kit instructions for the most part with a few minor adjustments.
  22. First build King of the Mississippi - Artesania Latina - scale 1.80 Finished
  23. Here is my new build. It will be for one of my daughters. It looks like it is going to be a fun build. I will be working on it at the same time as my other project, the Confederacy I think I am just going to build this one out of the box.
  24. Hi I am a new ship modeler from Lithuania. There is a second model of my ship (the first was Corel Company VASA). In my country are many people (about 2 million), so there are many people who make ship models, there are many company's which sells ship model kits. The most serious company in Lithuania is COREL. So I doing this company ship models. Now I'm doing COREL - WAPPEN VON HANBURG. This is Corel company's most expensive and sophisticated set of ships. I want to say that COREL kits are complex. But I like this company because the quality of the materials is good. I think it will be difficult to make this ship model because the first deck cannons have to be installed before the taller decks can be made and the sides of the ship glued. Swiss. Therefore, ground-floor cannons may be broken.

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