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  1. With the Santisima trinidad build finished It's time to start on the cross section, also a kit from occre I will be building it in the same style i've done the full ship, matching the weathering and overall look Kit will be bashed and several additions to hopefully improve it, many of those additions inspired on the @md1400cs build
  2. Well my kit arrived, and my workbench is mostly cleaned off, so I had best start my build log. I'll post some pictures tomorrow, if my first Covid shot doesn't hit me too hard.
  3. Many years ago (25-30?), before the advent of the internet, I bought and started construction of this cross section of the USS Constitution. It may have been following a visit to that venerable ship in Boston that I felt so inspired. I got the frame built,deck beams formed and installed, and the planking done outside and in. At that time I started to feel overwhelmed,with many questions that needed answering before I went any further. With no help readily available I packed the unfinished kit away. Someday. I never lost my love of wooden ships and had the opportunity to visit several including the CW Morgan of Mystic, Cutty Sark in Greenwich, and the Draken Harfarge Viking ship. I still felt the tug of building a ship and when we moved to Maryland 3 years ago I started reading about The Pride of Baltimore II which I decided I'd really like to build. I figured that my long neglected Constitution would be a great practice project since I already had most of the hull built, and it only has one mast and spars, and associated rigging. I took her out of her cardboard box dry dock and started work. I made a crude working cradle to hold the hull, and gave the ship a quick coat of polyurethane as a sealer. The The mast dowel is just inserted to check it's fit and rake. The mast step is imperfectly fitted to the hold, but I figure that it will be covered with ballast and barrels so I didn't worry about it. I've read through the other build logs for this kit and if I was to do it over, I would not have installed the deck beams other than the ones over the hold to make it easier to install decking and deck fittings. You live and learn. Installing all the below deck items should be "fun". In my zeal, I mistakenly added un necessary hatch cross pieces between the lower deck's beams. Oh well, it was good practice. I'm planning on using copper foil rather than the cheesy looking green wood chips supplied with the kit. Anyone here tried simply scribing the lines in the copper tape to simulate individual copper plates? It would sure be easier, but might not look convincing. I might try to give the copper an aged patina which could enhance the illusion I can always try a strip or two on a piece of scrap wood to see. One thing that deterred me from working on this kit when I first got it was a dread of figuring out how to thread deadeyes and form ratlines. Now that there's a resource like Model Ship World, I'll have some guidance which is a great relief. I need to figure out a better way to mount the hull. The kit just includes a cheap looking piece of pine and I gather you're supposed to run a couple of screws up through it into the keel,which does not sound very secure. I might build a nicer version of my crude work cradle in better wood, like cherry, for final displaying. I thought it might be fun to have some crew members on deck and aloft, but I can't find any in 1:93 scale. Do you think figures in 1:87,HO railroad scale, would look 'way too off scale? I could probably modify some of those. What's with the natural colored standing rigging cordage supplied with the kit? Can I somehow dye it black or would it be better to replace it? I know I'll have tons of other questions as time goes on, and I welcome any and all criticism and suggestions.
  4. Hi all, I'm actually waiting on a couple of small sheets of parts from CAF, and those should be here pretty soon, courier dependent. The kit itself landed last week in under 7 days from China, via TNT/FedEx. Pretty quick for these times we currently live in. If you haven't already checked out my review for this kit, please do so here: I still need to dump my photos from camera yet, and I'll wait until I have the first double frame complete. Give me a couple of days or so Jim
  5. I just got this from amazon today and can't wait to get at it. The box was a little damaged and had been opened previously so I think it was a return. The contents were well packed and still in the original shrink wrap so I think it will be fine. I have only found a couple of build logs for this one and none of those were done to completion so I guess I am on my own on this one. I can already see quite a few changes/"improvements" that will make this an interesting build for me. As others have pointed out historical accuracy is not what this kit was made for. I will get started in earnest tomorrow night. Hope to see you all then.
  6. The box showed up fairly quickly via FedEx. Inventoried the parts and read over Tom's instructions (well, looked at the pictures😁). I'll be slow diving into this, waiting for my eye surgeries in March. But, I'll be here following along with the rest of the mates.
  7. " LE CENTAURE 1782" Scale 1/36 April 2015 I started with the construction of the model and soon realized, "that is a big think". I wanted to present it as a cross-section model with complete interior design, in the style of my model BONHOMME RICHARD 1779. On some whim I finished the construction Oktober 2016, all nicely packed and mothballed. I still want to show the images of the construction protocol, and have the hope that it will eventually be built further. The sequence of images extends over a period of eighteen month in the time-lapse mode. Karl (Google Translator)
  8. Part 1 - Introduction When I first started ship modeling in 2012, I purchased a set of plans from Seaways Publishing for the Dunbrody Irish Famine Ship. The plans appealed to me because I was born in Ireland and have read quite a bit on the famine years. The Dunbrody is a replica of an actual ship that was built in Quebec in 1845 by Thomas Hamilton Oliver for William Graves, a lumber merchant from New Ross in County Wexford in the southeastern part of Ireland. The Dunbrody’s construction coincided with the Irish Famine years, during which the Irish tenant farmers were starving due to the failure of their potato crops – their primary food source. The ship was designed to carry lumber from the new world to Ireland and England. On her return voyage she mainly carried pig iron and limestone, which left room for carrying a fairly large number of passengers and normally accommodated up to 176 Irish emigrants who were trying to escape the potato famine. The replica ship was commissioned by the John F. Kennedy Trust of New Ross, as a tribute to the emigration of the Kennedy family from their Irish homestead near New Ross. The current Dunbrody was designed by the naval architect Colin Mudie, who had designed a number of replica ships. The plans for the replica were based on entries for the original ship in the Lloyd’s Register, and from certificates and surveys. Mr. Mudie also wrote a book titled “Sailing Ships” in which he presented a number of ships he had designed. The book included a section on the design and construction of the Dunbrody. I don’t think I had any real thoughts on how to model the Dunbrody when I originally purchased the plans. I was new to modeling and didn’t have any experience in scratch building. After seeing Ed Tosti’s work on Young America I decided a few things. First, Dunbrody is not a very refined ship, and her lines are no comparison to the beauty of the clipper ships. My primary reason for building Dunbrody is to show the accommodations for the Irish emigrants. I felt that this could best be accomplished by building a sectional model. The plans from Seaways Publishing contain most, if not all, of the details needed to construct an accurate model, so I would try to reproduce the details presented in the plans. I would use Ed Tosti’s build logs and books for Naiad and Young America to learn the techniques and processes I would need to build the model. In addition to the plans for Dunbrody, and Ed’s books, I will also be using two excellent books as references: “American Built Packets and Freighters of the 1850s” by William L. Crothers and “Wooden Ship-Building” by Charles Desmond. A number of questions arose as I started planning for this build, and I started a thread entitled “Planning for a Sectional Model of Dunbrody” to get some feedback from the more experienced modelers on this site. Most of my questions have been resolved, so it’s a good time to start building.
  9. As the building of my other model, H.M.S. Leopard at 1:80 took the best part of 9 years, I didn't want to take on another full-on model of a complete ship. So, since I have basic drawings/plans of Leopard I'm going to have a try at a cross section. As a section will require a lot less space for the finished item I wanted to exploit that and have increased the scale considerably. . . . and to explain about the unusual scale of 1:44 - - - I had planned to have the previous drawings at 1:80 doubled and asked for that at the copy shop. The enlarged copies didn't quite come out at twice the size. At the widest point on the body plan the moulded breadth measures exactly 11 inches. Compared to the 'real width' of the actual ship at 39 feet 10 inches that works out at 1:43.45 --- so, its official model scale will be called "1:44". Okay, that's that out of the way. As for the actual parts of the drawings and plans that I will need, some modifications have to be made before I can even think about creating more sawdust in my hut. When I built my previous Leopard it was P.o.B. so the body plan was sufficient for creating the bulkheads but I have to modify that plan for creating frames. All I have is this >>> and one copy of a section at mid-ship >>> I will need more than the 'half frames' that are available on the body plan, so, I had the image flipped horizontally and made a few copies >>> I then cut two of the flipped copies down the centre line and pasted them onto 'right-way-round' copies and ended up with these >>> These two copies above were the ones that came back from the copy shop at almost twice their original size. (I had 12 copies of the aft frame plan and 6 of the forward frame plans copied.) The section drawing above is reasonably adequate as a rough guide to the basic shape of the mid-ship frame but I will have to make use of the body plan for the nine frames I intend to make. It won't be a fully-framed section but instead the frames will equate to the positions of the bulkheads 13 to (B) shown in the plan below >>> It will be a little longer than most sections I have seen as I want it to extend from just ahead of the companionway forward of the main mast back to the two capstans. As a section at this scale would have a full height mainmast at around 1.6 metres (over 5 feet) I intend just to display with a 'stump' of a main mast as shown in the section drawing. (second image in this post.) This project is requiring a lot more advance planning than did my previous build before the sawdust stage so hopefully I'll have formulated a definite route to go by the next post. (I have ideas -- just have to test them!)
  10. I have been chatting with John (tarbrush) about whether or not to do a scratch build log of the Mary Rose, which I fancied doing as a cross section.... so here goes... my first attempt at a blog. A bit of background first. I saw MR towed in to dock after she was raised, and have been fascinated ever since. We get random tv programmes about how they found it etc, but what finally got me going was a volume on the MR weapons I found at Leeds armouries...'weapons of warre' which was closely followed by buying 'Mary Rose, Your Noblest Shippe'... (best £50 I ever spent on a ship book!) This has 15 sheets of 1:100 scale drawings as part of the volume along with numerous scaled illustrations... if anything I now have too much information... I wanted to crew the model but struggled for anyone other than Henry 8th at first... since then I have found some border reivers (40mm tall, Perry miniatures) but finally hit on some nice 28mm figures from the assaultgroup.co.uk, which also includes gun crews. They have fixed the scale. (plastic, but you cant have everything! ) I have just finished scaling up the plans from the book, deciding to go from just behind the forecastle to around the midway point. That area gives me an accurate piece to work on without making up/inventing the bits of ship they haven't found yet... Once I work out how to size photos on here I will post up the keel etc. I don't get a lot of time to spend on model builds, so this is going to be a loooong blog time!
  11. Hi All, Well I’ve come across some interesting plans for a scratch built Bomb Vessel Granado Cross Section over on Model Ship Builders site. Now I’ve never been known to be impulsive, carry on more then one build at a time or unable to resist the urge to start another scratch build. Talk about going to the darkside! It’s so dark on this side I’m not sure I’ll ever see light again! The Bomb Vessel Cross Section has some interesting details both on and below the deck (i.e. mortar pit and shell room) The plans are based on "Anatomy of the Ship - Bomb Vessel Granado" by Peter Goodwin and original drawings by Thomas Slade. All plans were drawn by Jeff Staudt. In total there are 63 pages of drawings in the set and are very well done. The scale for this build is a whopping 1:24 (½” to 1’) so it will be interesting building something at this scale. The single frame pieces are ½” wide and a completed frame is approximately 13 ½’ wide by 9” high. The keel is ½” wide by 14 ½” long and over 1 ¼” high at its highest point. There are some frames that are doubled so they will be 1” wide! I have some Cherry cut offs from a furniture factory and I will be cutting them down to ½” billets for the frames. I’ll decide the other woods as I go. The main problem I see is turning the mortar and cannon as I do not have a lathe or mill. Oh well I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. So here is a look at a couple of sheets of plans to give you an idea of what it will look like. You also can go to www.modelshipbuilder.com to see more information. Here is a sample of some of the rough cut Cherry I have. You can see that the sides are rough cut so to start I shaved the sides on the saw to clean them and then ripped them. The below pictures show I ended up with two pieces of 1/2" x 3" x 14" and one piece at about 1/8" thick. I will have to run them through the thickness sander to get them to their finished size. This should be interesting and will take a good while to complete.
  12. Part 1: Introduction of a new project: With my Triton cross section running to its completion, it is time to look out to a new cross section project. My eye fell on a former group project of our modeling club ( https://dedissel.weebly.com/ a cross section of a Lowestoft smack, based on drawings of the smack 'Master Hand'. One of the club members, Georges Verleene, an experienced ship carpenter (now retired), wrote for this project a very detailed monograph with lots of detailed drawings. The group project went on many years ago, but lucky for me Georges had still a copy of the handout left. 001.pdf
  13. Hello everyone. Frankly, I must start out to say that I am humbled all of the models I have seen so far here, wonderful and masterful work! I will admit that I am still of a novice when it comes to building with wood, but I have been building plastic models for fifteen years. This is my second wood model. I built a kit bashed Bluenose II for my wife a little over a decade ago. Therefore, this is my first attempt in as many years at a wooden kit. So the build begins: The third frame: The fifth frame: I look forward to sharing my progress with you, and reading all of your tips and feedback. Cheers, Timothy Igoe
  14. I just finished my first ship model last weekend, I've got another kit on the go, but this Triton project looks really cool and will most definitely be educational. I'm really looking forward to this. Smaller scales appeal to me for some reason. This works out well because our house is so jammed with stuff that I really don't have a lot of room to display models!
  15. This will be my build log for a project I've been building, on and off for some time. The cross section is of the HMS Blandford, a 20 gun Sixth Rate frigate launched in 1720 and represents a small segment of the ship at the level of the main mast. Included are the mast, the well and shot lockers, chain pump as well as elm tree pump details and weather deck details including 2 cannons. The model will be plank on frame with hull planked down to the wales. There are two decks. As I usually do, I hope to use no paint or stain (or at least as little as I can!). The plans are based on "The 20 Gun Ship Blandford" by Peter Goodwin, one of the AOTS series. The plans were drawn by one of my cyber friends, Mike41 who posts here. He did a great job. Although there are some simplifications in the framing (no chocks or scarfs in the hull frames, for example) the plans are fairly close to the AOTS drawings. The second photo shows the cross section's location in longitudinal view.
  16. I have started the cross section model...mostly drafting. But I figured I would start a log. I am waiting on arrival of a variety of machine screws and nuts to finish drafting the keel parts. They will be set up in the usual fashion you folks have seen but I will post that once its ready. Here is the overall plan I am working from. Hopefully it will look like this once done...planked on one side and open framed on the other. I have started drafting the frames. There will be some bent frames with curved top timbers but this is just a plain straight one. Here are the laser cut pieces.....but you will not build the frame with the parts laid out like this. Because the laser cuts on an angle, it is best to strategically flip certain parts to get the tightest fit possible. You wont get one side with a large gap which is typical. Therefore no sanding of the char is needed ...nor should you attempt to sand the char from the edges of all joints that fit together. They will fit perfectly as is. The only drawback is that you will see the seam which in some instances was not the case as they werent tarred. But thats OK.... So I flipped them as I show in the photo below....flip parts "C" and "D" for the best fit possible. Note the dirty side on the flipped parts. There is no need to build each frame on top of a plan trying to get the frame to come out the correct shape. I have created some tabbed guides which make it very easy. I built five of these frames and they all came out the same...Each one took just a few minutes. I used titebond on the seams. Just take care not to glue the guides to the frame. See below. All glued up. Then the guide tabs are cut free leaving the frame strong and ready for sanding. I sanded every edge to remove the char except for the notch in the bottom chock which stays unsanded. It needs to be a perfect press fit into notches I created in the rising wood...which I will show later. But the finished frame all sanded up up looks like the one below. The top cross bar is added for strength and also to help register all of the frames once they are glued onto the keel. That is what those two notches on the cross bar are for. After I draft more frames it will make more sense. Chuck
  17. Until now, my modeling experience has been in plastic. This will be my first attempt on a 'plank on frame' build in wood. Wish me luck! These are the woods I will be using, subject to change. Also, I have started working on the frame jig.
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