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Found 20 results

  1. Post 1 early November, the process begins Superb log a 1:24 kit bash This project is intended to celebrate the building of the first Schooner by the Hodgdon family, now in its fifth generation of ship building on the Boothbay Peninsula. There are several firsts that could have been chosen as the builder started in 1816 and then migrated east across the peninsula and then south to the East Boothbay Mill area over these first ten years. Before we make any decisions, we must first thank and give credit to Barbara Rumsey who tirelessly researched, and fortunately for us published her work tracing this history around Boothbay. In the Book Hodgdon Shipbuilding and Mills, A documentary History of the first hundred years, 1816-1916, published in 1995, Barbara tells us the story. To help with this upcoming exhibit, my first thought is to build a diorama depicting the final stages of building this schooner in the late spring of 1816. To do this work I have expanded research into re reading sections from some favorite authors. There are no surviving half hulls and many of the Hodgdon firm’s records were burned in a fire many years ago. I felt that it would be safe to take the plans created by Howard Chapelle. Even better I found that there is a recent kit using Howard’s design for the 1939 version of the pinky that was built and he apparently sailed before WWII. As I begin this project, I am in the process of moving to a new home and needing to rebuild a shop from scratch. That means lots of good news in the opportunity to improve the working environment. but an obvious crunch in time for me to have this done by next May. I bought the Glad Tidings kit with its great set of his plans. At the 1:24 scale it represents 39 feet long deck and 40 +/- top of rails and if I go back to the peak of the stern I can get to 42ft.?. This is one of those rationalization conversations. The first decision is what convention to use for hull length. I will quickly take a leap of faith that these history books and lists use the length of deck from inside the taff rail to the forward most point of deck. That was pretty well confirmed in the schooner books I read while researching earlier builds. But what records did they keep confirming what they meant for the tax records, used in Ms. Rumsey’s research, to determine lengths of vessels. If I want 42 feet, I have some choices: Do I build it as is? If I am wrong, it is only a few percent…so it should be ok. But then a diorama with a schooner roughly 29 inches long including all rigging is tough to do. On the other hand, I do not have time to recreate too much. This is not a build to go to frames unless I want to show something under construction. Do I scan the mold plans and adjust the scale to replicate a 42-foot schooner? I could drop to 3/8 scale = 16 inches +/- on deck or even ¼ scale = 10 inches deck to roughly 15 inches +/- overall which I think in the end is easier to do in a diorama if I want to show the launch. · The second decision is …am I building the first schooner built in Boothbay or by the first builder of Boothbay. Superb was not built in Boothbay but next door by a Boothbay builder… the first schooner he built in Boothbay was Ruby in 1823 maybe or Betsy 1824 surely. Both were pinky shaped and of similar size. So, we have the boat, we just need to settle on the name and town. Diorama option 1: build at 1:24 To build the kit hull through the deck. Then to show construction activities around the schooner. Perhaps rigging a mast and or the rudder. This would use up the kit material and get to a timely delivery. The problem is with the large size there will be little room to have things around. Think of the huge figures etc. Diorama option 2: build the above in 1:48 There are other considerations. If I simply use the plans for this build, what do I do with the kit. I find that Hodgdon built a 59-footer just 13 years later after they had arrived in east Boothbay. The largest Pinkies were built around 1831 at 69 feet. I would say looking at the list however that was an odd ball and not the norm. Also one does not just up the scale, one needs to research what was stretched to add 20-25 feet to a 40 foot schooner. After that large build, the “pinky’ classification stayed around the 39-42-foot version. That all makes sense to me because Howard Chapelle was a lot smarted than me, and he chose this size for his developed plan. Even so to build bigger would extend middle sections of the hull in some way that cannot be my design, so do I use kit parts for my material inventory and trash the molds or go ahead with one at 1:24. Diorama Option 3 only use the plans and raw material. I am considering to build at 1:48 or 1:64 Superb was believed to have been built on Westport Island. That is about three miles west of us. At the time it was part of the town of Edgecomb, which is the northern third of the Boothbay peninsula. Since after the move to East Boothbay in about 1823, the Hodgdon boat works remained there until today. 01 Here we have a modern google image of the east Boothbay harbor with the active Hodgdon boat works. This property was purchased much later than the period we are discussing. It was infact sold again last year to Washburn and Doughty. In the 19th century the Hodgdon boat works included all the land where the marina is now located. That was sold in 1970. Not long after that ventrue it became ocean Point Marina. The adjacent ship builders park is the once owned by the Reeds but changed hands a few times. The famous Adams yard where two four masted schooners were built in 1893 and 1890. was located where today Washburn and Doughty builds large sea going tugs and fire boats for offshore oil rigs. Caleb Hodgdon both the builder of Superb and its owner relocated to start the Hodgdon Mills in what is East Boothbay today. He also maintained ownership of the 42-foot Superb for many years. So perhaps I scale down and scratch build a 1:48 or 1:64 inch water line model resting on a mooring to be Superb and then a partially framed hull in the yard being build and I change the year to 1824 and call it Betsey or Ruby that were built there. I would use the rigging on the moored vessel and have the deck and a few things completed on the model. I might just bread and butter water line up the build up everything I am not building on the new one. If the new one is under construction, I can have incomplete planking and not worry about copper and all the other niceties that I see in the painting I have been studying done by Lane As to the look, I am going to depend on artists views of the mid 19th century and not the new reconstructions of brightly colored Pinkies that sail today. 02 Here we see one of many internet photos of models and that closely follow the paintings on coloring. 03 Here is an internet image of the proper coloring of the era. I say that because there are several contemporary paintings by lane also posted that clearly show the conservative coloring [black] with the copper bottoms and dark green under the wales. It is interesting to see all the bright colors of the later versions. Action for November I am entering a month of moving from one house to another and building a shop. I need to put together the frame from the kit and get going. No mater what option this build ends up with, the kit needs to be built up through the hull basically as intended, so here we go. RC follow up options. This is my overall plan to have scaled details static models at sensible scale and the simple built up RC versions. No more Bluenoses too detailed to sail at 7 feet long Since I may also build a 1:12 radio sail pinky after this diorama, I even suggest three possible builds all on one log. 1 build out the kit to have something to show next spring likely to be built through the deck and men working above deck 2 build the diorama at 1:48 or 1:64 with two boats. With enough time I could draw the fill in frames and have some areas without deck and planking as a better view of the building of a schooner. 3 build the rc. At 1:12 I plan a similar rebuild of Bowdoin as RC but that is another story. Much to think about I think time will be the ultimate factor in this decision. I have no tools now, so thinking and sketching is what I have. This writing as usual helps, me focus and draw conclusions. The plans are even packed in a box, and I have no idea in which one, so I have nothing to scan to play with in cad. I have no idea if this is a kit bash or a scratch diorama within which I use some of the kit. I am not building Glad Tidings as advertised, but will surely give them credit. I spoke about this posting question to colleagues at the New Bedford NRG Conference, and they agreed it is sometimes perplexing but not too important. My conclusion is I am kit bashing of Superb into a diorama as per option 1......we'll see Cheers
  2. 1:24 Istanbul Diorama OcCre Catalogue # 53010D Available from OcCre for €60,95 If you’ve recently taken a look at our Istanbul tram review, you might like this particular review article. Yes, of course you can display your tram on a shelf, or in a cabinet, but what about outside Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar? That’s exactly what this new product from OcCre allows us to do, and with relative ease of construction. This is what OcCre have as their website product description: “The diorama is a representation of the entrance to the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, one of the largest in the world. Located inside the old “walled city", on the European side of Istanbul, between Nuruosmaniye, Mercan and Beyazıt, with more than 58 covered streets and 4,000 shops or stalls, every day the bazaar attracts between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors. The bazaar offers a wide range of products, in particular jewellers, precious metal workers, spice shops and carpet shops. The stalls tend to be grouped together by type, following the tradition of the ancient guilds. The bazaar includes two Bedestens, or domed stone-built structures, which are used for the storage of merchandise. The first of these was built in 1464, by order of Mehmet II, although it then had to be mostly rebuilt in 1864, following the earthquake. This fabulous diorama combines perfectly with the tram of Istanbul, joining the nostalgic line of Taksim-Tunnel with the Grand Bazaar, in an effort to group two large emblems of the city of Istanbul.” The kit The Istanbul diorama is packaged into quite a plain, shallow corrugated cardboard box, with a colour product label attached. There is also a reasonable amount of weight here too, so you know there’s plenty of building material afoot. Upon opening the box, it ca be seen that the multitude of sheet material is wrapped in a heat-sealed sleeve that needs to be cut away. As the sheets in here are various sizes, and the internal box has no compartmentalisation, this is a good way of ensuring that damage risk is minimised. There are also a number of printed sheets which are rolled up, some strip timber and brass wire. A catalogue and sheet pointing to the instructions, are also included. More on the latter in a moment. The numerous sheets are made from MDF and are very neatly laser-cut. You will note how some of the parts have dovetail connections too. In essence, the entire diorama is built up from a series of wall panels that have the Islamic arch shapes that attach to them to create a 3D relief, and this is sat upon a base which is built from sections, to incorporate the ruts along which the tram lines would run. Oddly enough, there is no actual brass section strip to recreate the tram line itself, but instead, timber strip, painted silver, it what’s prescribed. Using some metal strip could be a nice enhancement, but you would need to purchase that yourself, measured against the OcCre tram wheels for best fit. The idea behind this diorama is that anyone can typically build it, simply out of the box contents. To decorate the walls and floors etc. a series of colour-printed textures are provided, on A4 sheets. These include stone, marble and parquet styles, and these need to be cut out to suit the various structures, and then glued into position with a glue stick, for example. Using wet glues may cause the sheets to ripple and not adhere as flat as they should, although the instructions do actually show brushed PVA as being the glue of choice. Sheets of paper are also supplied to simulate the Bazaar interior, with crowds of people and stalls etc. When it comes to depicting the exterior details, more printed sheets are supplied, with such things as Turkish rugs, flags etc, and these can be draped over the display stands that sit outside the various stalls on the exterior of the Bazaar. These stalls also have printed awnings to shelter them from the Turkish sun. To recreate the road itself, then a series of strip card is supplied. This needs to be cut into brick-sized sections, and then plastered over the road in a staggered manner. You can of course then paint and infill between them and add some airbrushed staining to weather things realistically. Brass wire is supplied for all manner of things, such as the random-looking electrical cables that run along the outside walls. OcCre supply no instructions for this kit. Instead, they provide an online build guide which is very comprehensive, showing everything right down to measuring out specific dimensions for everything. This multi-part guide is excellent, with the facility to be able to download each part as a PDF. To check out the guide, head to this link: http://www.occremania.com/diorama-de-istanbul-parte-8-2/ Conclusion Dioramas aren’t usually my thing, but this looks very tempting, just to see if I can make a reasonable attempt at it and add some airbrush work to make it look a little more lived in. There’s certainly a nice quantity of building material here, and all nicely produced. Recreating the street surface will also be quite absorbing, as well as those kerb stones that are cut from the thick strip timber. My sincere thanks to OcCre for providing the review sample seen here. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of the article.
  3. My most recently completed model, HM Bark Endeavour, as she appeared in Tahiti, 1769, to observe the Transit of Venus. Total build time was just under a month. The ship is built to the scale of 75’ to 1” or 1/900. The hull was made from boxwood and planked with Nootka Cyprus. The balance of the detail is Nootka and boxwood. The masts are brass, and the rigging is a mix of nitinol and copper wire. The sea base is carved Nootka Cyprus. If you’d like to see more of my ships, they’re all at www.josephlavender.com
  4. Another purchase off eBay. It’s obviously an older kit judging by the metal. i thought it was amusing that in another purchase i found a model expo ad for this exact kit dated 1995... anyways, it looks like a good time so here we go again.
  5. I thought I’d post a WIP thread of my 1/1500 scratch build project of HMS Ramillies. Typically I build the base and the ship separately but this time do the some issues I had with securing USS South Carolina to her base, I’ve completed Ramillies up to the main deck and joined the sea base and the ship together. This should be okay as the superstructure will mostly be built as a sub-assembly. The model is a little less than 5” long and made from boxwood. The camouflage scheme was used by Ramillies in the winter of 1917 into the spring of 1918. The sea base is carved wood as well and painted.
  6. My latest little creation, SMS Seeadler as she appeared early in her career in 1917. The model is made almost exclusively from boxwood and brass. The sails are a fine tissue paper that has been primed and painted, the rigging is several grades of tungsten wire. The sea base was made from carved basswood, then painted and sealed with epoxy resin.
  7. Here are some photos of my progress on my scratch-built, 1/1500 scale HMS Dreadnought, 125’ to 1” at just over 4” long overall. The hull was made from boxwood, the deck planked with bass. The balance of the detail is mostly brass, with some styrene, aluminum, and tungsten wire. The funnel was made from aluminum sheet, and is hollow all the way through. Probably overkill, as I included not only the external piping but internal as well. The handrails are brass, awning stanchions are tungsten wire. I’m using the plans drawn by John Roberts. I’ll post more as I continue the superstructure. Total parts count at the time of this post is 606.
  8. Good Morning All, I really don't know whether it is OK to post this album in this thread or not. It is a Scratch build Diorama , my first Diorama actually ... Clay, green sponge and Balsa. Still i have to apply the resin and place some other parts ... Please let me know what do you think thanks
  9. Background It has been suggested that I should post a retrospective build log for my diorama of the sinking of the US gondola Philadelphia during the Battle of Valcour Island, Lake Champlain, in 1776. The final result is shown under “Diorama” in the gallery of completed scratch builds. A retrospective log may be unusual, but I hope that there are one or two ideas that others may find useful. If too many people get fed up with it, I’m sure they’ll tell me. The story started when I saw the Philadelphia in the Smithsonian in Washington DC. Although she sank in 1776, she was recovered in 1935 and is now on display, complete with the 24pdr British cannon ball that sank her. The Smithsonian has published a set of plans which I obtained (with some difficulty!)... .....but Philadelphia is a pretty basic and crudely built barge, and I decided that it wouldn’t make a very interesting model on its own. However, there is a modern painting by Earnest Haas of the US galley Washington standing by the Philadelphia and taking off the crew (Photo 4), and it struck me that this would form a good diorama. Washington was captured later in the battle, and the Admiralty, as was common practice, took off her lines. The draft is now in the National Maritime Museum in UK, and has been reproduced in a number of books. (I should add that my model was built before NRG published the plans for Washington). Although both vessels were small (Philadelphia is 53’7” OAL and Washington was about 80’ OAL), I have run out of room for large glass cases, so I decided on a scale of 1:144. (......to be continued)
  10. HMS Terror and HMS Erebus, Ross Expedition, 1839-1843. This is my latest installment of my program of scratch building all of the famous Antarctic exploration ships in small scale. The first I built was S/Y Endurance and the second being James Caird. HMS Terror and HMS Erebus were made famous on the Franklin Expedition, but a few years before that mess they were charting Antarctica with James Ross. The ships are made with basswood hulls, basswood gunwales, planked wood decks (yes, planked), with aluminum, brass, and stainless steel masts, and various other scratch built parts. I wanted to keep each ship to about 1 inch, so I chose 1/950 scale.
  11. I realized I had discussed this build but never posted it. Here is my 1/1000 (USS) Wasp Scratch build. The hull is basswood, the details are mostly brass, rigging is tungsten wire, the sails are linen paper.
  12. The schooner Wyoming in 1/1000. The hull is basswood, decks are laser etched basswood, details are a mix of basswood, Tanganyika, and brass. The masts are brass and the rigging is tungsten wire. The sails were made using linen paper.
  13. Greetings, I thought I’d share my recently finished HMS Pandora in 1/1000 scale. The hull is basswood, the deck is individually planked (bloody difficult), the masts are styrene and brass. Sails are linen paper and the rigging is tungsten and molybdenum wire.
  14. Bowdoin in ice display build post 1 This build will be my first attempt at a diorama I wanted to start this log to record both the research and the effort to replicate an expedition scene. It is going to more about studying the ship from 1924-to say 1930, its expeditions and the making of the overall display rather than only the model itself. I know I am going to need help. More than 15 years ago, I either bought or was given the Bluejacket model of the Bowdoin. When I stared modeling schooners in about 2012, my first thought was to use the 1:48 kit information as a study and then to build a 1:24 sailing model. [ that is the scale of my Bluenose and it is fun!] I still may do that, I just have too many possible projects. I want to use this opportunity to explore more of a diorama display of a type of ship to better learn how it was used. The Kate Cory build that is now on hold will come back, and I will try to have a whale on the side being treated. For the Bowdoin I am not sure, but think I want to show her in the ice or afloat next to the ice set up for winter in the arctic. I hope to have this display ready for next summer as a local family store owner wants to make Boothbay Built schooners a feature of their new venue. I have offered this model up as a backup, as other Bowdoin models may come available. My thought is an icy diorama with the model in it. As I have tried on my other models, I am more about trying to find out how things worked and what they were like in old photos and then try to adjust the model in that direction. I hope I can carry that off. This log is also for the purpose of documenting those items. The local historical society has tons of visuals to review, and the Donald Macmillan material is all available at Bowdoin College that is only 45 minutes away. [ in the winter light traffic anyway]. My love of this boat started in 1962. I was a junior sailing instructor in a summer program in Massachusetts and Donald Macmillan came to talk to us and sell his book. I fortuitously bought an autographed copy that is still in my library. I have read it both years ago and then again more recently as part of my extensive reading about the arctic. So many items will fill in as we go, but to start off …where are we with the actual build? There are just a few old photos that show that in 2012 ish, as I was starting to play with 1:48 scale builds, so I could down size my scale experience to be able build the four masted Schooner Charles Notman. All I did at that time was to rough out the hull and set up the deck. I noted that the kit did not require nor include any line drawings. A few years later as I was researching the Boothbay Harbor One Design at the Boothbay Region Historical society, I found they have a copy of the William Hand design of Bowdoin….I got a copy of the section lines so in the future I could rough out a scaled hull in RC friendly larger scale . I am told the original drawings of all of Hand’s work is in the Hart Museum at MIT. In a casual search of their site, I was unable to find them in their data base. If anyone seriously wants them that is a place to go. So to the build…these photos are about about 5 years ago... . · Here I was using the famous bondo glazing putty to smooth out the hull. Looking at the results 6 years later, I would likely send it back for another few coats. Three days more maybe then would have been great…..oh well. · Here we got some base coats painted and deck stained. · Here we added the bulkhead strips · Here we have the cap rails on and I notice more putty fixing the sides. It seems that for some of us, we can only see those defects after the first base coats of paint. That is why I stared the filler prime process. …. just spilled milk as they say · Finally, here is furniture partially built or as supplied in the kit in place and we are resting waiting for any action. This roughly represents the amount of deck detail I would include for an RC model. I have taken what I can find of the unused kit material. Obviously after this much time, it is scattered, so I am sure I will make or reorder what I need. The bell by example is nowhere to be found. What big new thing do I want to learn? ……The most urgent modeling method study for this build is to find out where to buy and how to work with textured and tinted Acrylic sheets. I want to cut out a hole for the boat and maybe a dory. Then one looks from the side and sees the underwater hull, maybe a fish or two, or even the anchor. There are several of these in Lunenburg museum and they are stunning. So far, I only found one source and they need about $50 for one sheet about the right size. That’s fine if it is right, but I need to practice. I looked all over MSW and was unsuccessful finding any articles or logs that jumped out at me. Anyway that study and experiments will be part of this build…..also how to make ice? then if i get brave or find some help make people and dogs. all in time. Cheers jon
  15. To be honest, the boat in this diorama will be built near the end of the project. The diorama is going to be a working lift-span bridge with a boat traversing underneath it. The bridge fits on a 2.4 x 1.2 m (8 x 4 ft) tabletop. The scale is 1/72. There are no available plans for the bridge. Created my own plans from photographs and two diagonal reference measurements (road width and span length). An antiquated control console of the actual bridge will be converted to operate the model. Created my own electronics for the diorama. I am a volunteer for the Ballina Naval & Maritime Museum. They are funding the material costs. The diorama will be an interactive display for the museum. This is my second model I have ever built. The first was done 26 years ago. It was a 1/10 scale working Tesla coil used in Colorado Springs in 1899. The current model is halfway to completion. My task is not to make an exact reproduction, but a close simile. Available materials limit the accuracy, but I endeavour to do what I can. The boat is not following any plan other than my own. It has to look symmetrical because the boat only travels along a straight line under the bridge forward and back. Seventy percent of the project will not be directly related to the boat. I have considered the Shore Leave forum but felt that it would get in the way of all those fun threads and other non-modelling topics. So I hope you all don't mind me being here. The model is based on this bridge located at Wardell, NSW, Australia. The display area for the diorama will be something like this.. There are quite a few photographs to upload - to catch up to where I am currently at. When I do catch up I'll let you know in the post. to be continued.
  16. When I mentioned this project here, I said I probably wasn't going to do a build log ('cause Dionysus knows I've got a few of those going already) but you know what? - I've had a change of heart and I'm gonna go for it. BECAUSE: a). It's fun and different. b). This time it's actual, paying work and my slacker genes are kept in check by a schedule and a bunch of eager kids, who will badger me endlessly unless I get off my bum and "let them do stuff with the boat". So don't you worry, dear reader - this one's not going to be an endless, hopeless slog through the salt marshes (at worst, your shoes will get a little muddy) so come along, why don't you? Also, if you have an idle gaggle of five-year-olds knocking about somewhere, this might be something worth trying out. Good fun. The model is heavily inspired by the wreck of the Bodekull (previously know as "Dalarövraket" - 'The Dalarö Wreck'). AHEM! Right. Onwards. There's a children's song, I think it's from one of the Pippi Longstocking movies, and the first two verses go like this: "Minns du en sjöman för länge, länge sen? Minns du hans namn var Kalle-Teodor? Aldrig så ser du den sjömannen igen han vilar i havet Kalle-Teodor. Men en stormnatt kan du höra nån som ropar 'hej-hå!' Ifrån havets djup det kommer och det låter så: 'Hej-Hå!' I storm på Biscaya gick skeppet i kvav skeppet han segla Kalle-Teodor Därför så vilar han nu i sin grav vaggad av sjögräs, Kalle-Teodor Men en stormnatt kan du höra nån som ropar 'hej-hå!' Ifrån havets djup det kommer och det låter så: Hej-Hå!'" Here's an English version from this video: "Can you remember a sailor from before Can you remember Captain Teodor You will never see this sailor again He's resting in the ocean, Captain Teodor. But on a stormy night it echoes - someone calling 'Hey-Ho!' from the ocean deep it cometh and it sounds like so: 'Hey-ho!' In a storm on the Biscay the ship hit a wave the ship he was sailing Captain Teodor so now he is resting below in his grave cradled by sea weed Captain Teodor. But on a stormy night it echoes - someone calling 'Hey-Ho!' from the ocean deep it cometh and it sounds like so: 'Hey-ho!'" This song is ever a favourite among kids (in my experience, at least). Loss at sea isn't something Swedish, urban kids of today typically have to deal with, but it has that ... vibe ... you know ... it's macabre enough to get the thoughts rolling. And it's mighty catchy too. Being quite unable to keep my perverse nautical interests out of anything, I ... um, "We" ... decided that Captain Teodor's ship would be a great theme for a creative project. So I picked up a toilet roll, scissors, a hot glue gun and off I went. Here's the general idea: That's Part one, then. Cheers Sam
  17. Hello With my first build log[1] on hold for a year, it's time to sail into new and uncharted waters (and then sink there). First of all I'd like to say thanks to all the people who popped in with a thumbs up when I presented[2] my idea What I'm giong to build is this: A lit diorama, in a box, of an ROV investigationg an old wooden wreck in the blackness of the deep sea. The inspiration for the project comes from two places. Firstly, from the abundance of remarkable wreck discoveries in the Baltic sea in recent years. And secondly from an "art" project I abandoned some years ago - diorama night lights. I thought it would be cool if you could lie and gaze at some scene, say, your favourite street corner, while you drift off into sleep. Now the night lights are back, but they're Wreck Lights now. Yes, Wreck Lights, That's what I'm going to build. The scale will be fairly small - it would be weird to have a night light the size of grandma's telly ... What I'm aiming for as far as the wreck itself is concerned is something like this: http://www.hydro-international.com/issues/articles/id1236-The_Ghost_Ship_Expedition.html It might be cool to do a fluyt. I really like fluyts, wrecked or not. Any tips, sharing of thoughts, reference material etc. is of course much appreciated. Lastly, I've done a silly illustration to show you what I have in mind (I won't build the kid ...) [1]http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3046-toy-ship-by-farbror-fartyg-inspired-by-large-17th-century-ships/ [2]http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3063-wreck-site-diorama/
  18. hello every body, this time I am so motivated to build a diaroma. and the first step; building the boat :-) model is based on a drawing of a boat which was reported to be about 4-5 m. by the drawer. due to scaling issues in my scale it is now around 7 m. I also did ome modifications on the deck.
  19. Hi everyones! First of all I want to thank to Piet. His miniature diorama in some way inspired me to this mini project. From time to time I have a desire to try their skills in the direction of further miniaturization of shipbuilding in bottles. Here, a short history of one of these small projects. The flask with strange shapes, reminiscent of a heart with an asymmetrical arrangement of the neck, lying in a drawer of my desk for a long time, but I did not have any specific ideas for using it as a receptacle for the construction of a model in a bottle ... And then ... As always, the idea came unexpectedly - sea, rock, lighthouse, boat. On this photo this flask is in the center
  20. Hello all, A few months ago I got the urge to try something I have been thinking about of doing for a long time. I have always been very intrigued with dioramas. It adds to the realism of our models but making a diorama with large models is not an option for me, space wise. So, what size should my diorama be and how to protect the diorama from dust and possible mishaps while on display. What subject should I choose? In my frequent visits to the Dutch website "Maritiem Digitaal" I found a few paintings of ships in a shipyard. Being also an artist I love to accumulate copies of art, just to look at. So, the idea is basically making a diorama of a small shipyard like they used to have in the cities around the former Zuider Zee, now Ijsel Meer. In one of my many books about the Netherlands I came across a photo of just one of those real small shipyards. Ah, Pieter thought, that would look great. Well, as time went by and I felt a strong urge to start with this project the subject was changed from a Dutch fishing boat to an American build topsail schooner. Oh, the Dutch fishing boat is still in the back of my mind but I'll reserve that for later and hope to actually make a diorama in a bottle. After I saw JesseLee's ship in a Christmas ornament globe I thought that would really be a challenge making something that small as a diorama. But alas, that idea was promptly rejected because of the difficulties involved, i.e. improbabilities. Then I read about small dioramas under a wine glass. So, did a Google search and they looked very nice with real probabilities. Problem was that Gwen would not part with one pf her crystal glassware, her wedding gift. A good thing though because in retrospect the stem would be too distracting. A further search for ideas got me to those "snow globes." Eureka! Pieter shouted. That would work and also look nice. These snow globes are rather small and can be held in the palm of your hand, just what I had in mind. Okay, what do I use for a globe? Christmas tree ornaments are too delicate for this purpose. So my dear wive Gwen why not use a lamp? I rejected that idea already at the beginning because I did not see any way doing all this through that small opening after you remove the filament. But then the light went on - - - I'll just cut the lamp to fit on my diorama. I now had the subject, the diorama globe and the material to use (wood). Next was to determine how big that schooner should be to fit nicely inside a 75 Watt lamp that's cut down to have a 5 inch opening. The schooner is supposed to be 90 to 95 feet long or 27,432 mm or 28, 956 mm. My diorama can only have a model of about 14 to 15 mm length on deck. Well, that works out to a scale of 1:2000. This is the reason for me wanting to try it first to see if I can actually make a 90 foot two masted ship at 14 or 15 mm. The masts and spars should close to scale rather than clunky. The rest would follow easier, me thought Okay then, here are a few pics of everything that preceded the actual build process. Old ship's warf of Dirk Pauw at Durgerfam Original idea for shipyard diorama Bird's eye view of original idea Cordial glass that came closest to the size I wanted, 5 inches A 75 watt lamp that will eventually be cut to the 5 inch diameter point. Cheers,

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