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Found 24 results

  1. After the Rattlesnake I wanted to do something different. I have always been interested in the WW2 PT (Patrol Torpedo) boat. My build will be modelled on PT 105 commanded by Dick Keresey. Yes, believe it or not they made another PTs besides the 109. The 105 was an 80-foot Elco Torpedo boat 1942, built of spruce, oak and mahogany and made watertight by marine plywood covering. The Dumas kit 1233, 4 large sheet plans, decent 45-page instruction book, ok pictures, good material list. Kit is supplied with Mahogany, birch, and poplar ply. Dumas decided to replace the Mahogany sheet hull planking with 2mm PVC they say it makes for a smother finial finish. OK however if I wanted to build a PVC boat, I would have bought one. I will buy 2mm Mahogany sheets to do the hull planking properly
  2. Here is another orphaned kit that I came across where the original owner with all good intentions I'm sure started the build by taking most of the parts off of the parts trees and that is about where they stopped their efforts. At least from what I can tell is that they numbered all the pieces so no harm I guess. Upon inspection, I noticed the rudders and drive shaft struts are missing, which is easily replaced. This is an old kit, which has been bounced around from pillar to post. I hate seeing this, but I can't save them all. But as long as I'm able, I will finish it. The USS Crockett is a Vietnam area gun boat: is one of seventeen gunboats in the Ashville Class. This is the first group of US Navy ships to be powered by gas turbine. The Crockett was designed for Coastal patrol, blockade reconnaissance and support missions in South Vietnam. Scale 5/16" = 1 foot Length 51" Beam 7 1/2" Draft 4"
  3. OK, this is going to be an interesting build. We are setting up to have an estate sale for my Mother and Father's home. I was remind that an old boat that he was building may still be up in the attic. I remembered the boat from seeing in when I was young in the 70's and 80's. Just remember it being a speedboat of some sort. Well anyway, the estate lady did find the boat and handed it over to me and I didn't know how it was built, or where I would go from there. After asking some questions on here yesterday trying to find out what kit this was, I had it narrowed down to Miss Unlimited. I asked the Estate lady if there was a box for it, and she said no, So I figured I had to scratch build the upper section of the boat (which comes as plastic molds). But surprisingly a few hours later I received a text with these pictures asking if this is what I was looking for: I was ecstatic to get to see this. I drove over and picked up the box. I want to finish this boat as a tribute to my dad, but I didn't have and intention of making it motorized/RC controlled, just for display. I don't know if I will change my mind later. But for now I just want to finish it and give it an interesting paint job. There isn't a whole lot of pieces left to finish, but I'm still going to make a build log for this. Working with a model that has been in the attic for 40 years will be a challenge. I already had to seal a lot of spit plywood with a thinned out wood glue mixture and some clamps. That worked out great. Also, the model appears to have a whitewash paint over it, it came with mahogany sheets for the top, but so much for making a nice varnished top. I will improvise with the paint job to get a finish I like. The main reason Im glad I found the box was for the plastic molds. The contests of the box left are this: One other funny thing:
  4. For my first wooden boat kit I chose the Dumas Chris-Craft 1956 Capri. I wanted a modest kit to learn the basics and the kit offers a good introduction. I really like wooden inboard boats – they have a special sound. As a woodworking hobbyist I’m discovering that I’m not used to working with small parts. Since this is my first build, I am including my mistakes. The Dumas kit is complete, they say there are more than enough planks (I have extra pieces after planking). The drawing is very helpful and the instructions provide enough instruction to complete the kit (I’d like to see more tips). I use the plastic base as a place to store the project as I work on it. I’ll replace the plastic base with a wooden one that emulates a slow wake.
  5. This kit was on sale at Garrett Wade so I snapped it up. But first, a few shots of my now almost bare woodworking shop. It used to be filled with a table saw, bandsaw, planer, jointer all connected to a central dust collection system. Up until seven or eight years ago, I used to build furniture and clocks and other projects, but as I got older I decided to hang up my apron. Now I'm back where I was when I was a kid—building model boats. Enjoy Alan This is the first thing I built—a much needed workbench. I setup a caddy to house all of my clamps and glue and tools. BTW those clamps are junk. The plastic tips keep coming off. Here's the Chris Craft with all the frames and keel glued up. It was tricky to get everything aligned properly. I don't much care for the material the frames are made from (balsa ply?). The instructions said to just glue the frames to the underside of the deck, but I found additional bracing was required. Another kit awaiting my attention. I didn't realize that this was designed by Chris Watton. I haven't decided whether to build this one after the Chris Craft, or Zulu, 'Lady Isabella' any thoughts??
  6. And now for something completely different. My wife gave me this kit for Christmas a few years ago. Since we live on a lake in New Hampshire it seems obligatory to have a wooden speedboat on display somewhere, so this will be it. I'll show box contents in the next post.
  7. Introduction I bought this kit about two years ago, having been enamoured by the excellent build log of Rusty on MSW 1. Sadly, that build log disappeared with the “great crash”, although Rusty did re-instate the photo sequence from his build. This kit represents a couple of “firsts” for me. First up, I’ve opted to go with making this a working radio controlled model – something I’ve never done before, but the Admiral thought it might be a bit of fun and so in a way this is “her” boat. We have a pond/lake nearby and some grand kids that might also enjoy taking her for a spin (if they can wrest the controls from the Admiral, that is!) Secondly, the building of this boat calls for the use of fibreglass – something else I have never done before. What's in the box? The kit contents are interesting and appear to be generally high quality. There is a mixture of die cut and laser cut parts, Mahogany strip wood, cast metal fittings (with what appears to be nickel plating), a type of plastic board (which forms the hull below the waterline), some aluminium strip (for the trim), and some styrene strips (that form the “caulking” for the deck planks). The kit also contains all of the running gear required to make the boat operational, minus the motor, battery and RC units. These I bought separately at the time that I bought the kit. The propeller supplied is a two-bladed plastic one, so straight up I opted to purchase a replacement three-bladed brass one (you can just see this in the centre of the photo below). A set of decals, a full size plan sheet, a collection of building diagrams and what appears to be a fairly comprehensive instruction manual complete the contents. I had also come across a book titled “Mahogany in Scale” by Patrick Matthews, which is meant as a generic guide for modelling this style of boat, but uses this exact kit as the example throughout. Having read it from cover to cover (twice), it will be a great reference throughout the build. Construction - First Steps I also found a number of build logs of this kit on an RC forum (including one by Pat Matthews) and have already come across some interesting ideas for modification. A common complaint among other builders has been the use of a decal strip for the instrument panel. I have already decided that I will replace this by making my own instrument gauges. So oddly enough, having cut out a build board to commence the project, I decided to start the build by doing a “proof of concept” for the instrument gauges. It took a little trial and error with the lathe, but here is a sample of what they might look like. I forgot to add a scale reference, but this is one of two smaller gauges that will be about 12mm external diameter. I have bored out an inner section to a 10mm diameter, into which a gauge face will be glued, and I have cut a shoulder and bezel to allow it to be mounted through the dash board. The one larger gauge will have a 16mm external diameter with 13mm inner section. I have found a few pictures of appropriate gauge faces on the web, and will probably draw my own in CAD based on these. Of course, my mate Mobbsie is now trying to convince me to add LED lighting to these……………..
  8. I have an opportunity to pick up an orphaned Dumas Typhoon mahogany runabout for the cost of shipping from a fellow builder, who received it as well but isn't interested in building it. he says he things all the parts are there, but who knows, it's a shot in the dark and a bit of a gamble. But I tend to be my own worst enemy at times and a really glutton for punishment. So, we'll see how it goes. But this is one of those kits I would LOVE to build. I had planned to retire from modeling with maybe an occasional small build here and there, but since heart surgery they have been finding me like stray puppies following me home from school.
  9. Just got my new kit in the mail. This will be my first Dumas Boat Kit . I'm a little intimidated by this kit, I've watched lots of videos and viewed lots of build logs so it's time to get cracking!
  10. Back from my one month trip to Asia and ready to ease back into ship modeling. This kit is part of the Dumas Chris-Craft series. Unlike most Dumas boats, this one has a planked hull. What's in the box: Pictures of the box cover with a close-up showing the model. Lots of wood, unsorted. Some good-looking mahogany strips and some very fragile laser-cut mahogany. Manual and lots of charts and drawings. This one should be a challenge -- the manual says it's a very difficult kit. The part I want to get right is the finish on the hull. I'm going to spend some time with the manual before I start on this. Regards, David
  11. I was able to pick this 1930 Mahogany runabout 24' up as a future project. It had been started by a previous owner, who did meticulous work from what I can tell just looking at the hull structure. He even kept a binder with the instructions in it and building notes that he was keeping. It came from an estate so I assume the previous owner had passed away before finishing the model. Well I'm going to take care of that for him and intend on finishing it unless I kick off before the job is done. You can tell that this kit is a good 30 years old, there were plastic drop cloth that was in the kit box I guess he put on the floor when building, but the plastic sheet totally fell apart when I pulled it out of the box. The plans are quite yellowed and not white like they should be.
  12. I purchased this kit from an on line retailer for about $95.00 with the intentions of building it for my grandson for either a birthday or Christmas present. But then life stepped in and then I wound up in the hospital for a triple bypass. So now that I'm back home and on the mend, I hope to make some head way on the Army Tug.
  13. I can't really call this a build log because I didn't start the build, I received this partially built Creole Queen from a friend over on the east Coast of Florida. The original owner and builder had health issues and had to move away and could no longer finish the Creole Queen. I had not to long ago retired from ship and boat building, but being a sucker for a unfinished boat project, I just had to take on the project and due to the original builder being famed builder Tony Lombardo, that was like icing on the cake for me. Here are a few pics of her as I received it. I started out by staining .5mmx8mm limewood strips with red mahogany stain and applying them to the decks. This was not allowed for on the kit, but I hate painted decks on boats, that to me is like a cop out. Next, I will look at drilling and installing the three rudders and rudder assist fin which goes up towards the middle of the hull, which assists in turning the boat.
  14. Here is another wayward orphan that I picked up that some good intentional soul I'm sure bought on a whim with all the good intentions in the world of finishing it and just never did due to I'm sure like most for various reasons. I'm told this poor soul passed away before completing it. By looking at the discolored blue prints I would have to say that had to have been many years ago. Now to the project model, a 1940 Chris Craft Barrel Back which has been on my to do list for ever. So I couldn't turn it down. The planking, which had been 75% complete was questionable at best, I had to completely rip off one side of the planking and start over, which I did. The rest of the build looked good.
  15. Here is the Dumas 1954 Chris Craft Commander Express 36" model kit that I received. My first impressions were the size of the box was quite larger than I expected and weighs close to 15 pounds. It has the typical woods. I didn't get too much into it since this will be stored away until I finish my current Montane's build. But one thing I did take note of was the fittings weren't crome or shiny, but looked like either lead or pot metal fittings and will need some type of finishing on them. But here are a few pics as to what it looks like at this point. This will be my first attempt at R/C building. I had thought about building this for my grand baby and son in law, but I think it might be a bit to large for them, so I might decide to sell it once completed to re-coop what I have invested in it. I'm mainly building it just to get a change from cannons and rigging and to try my hand at something else. mike
  16. Hello, all. I have been a member here for almost a year now, but this will be my first build log. I normally build model cars, but it's been a good 2 1/2 years since I finished one, although I have started many since then. I thought maybe it was time to just try something completely different. I have always loved working with wood, so I thought I'd take a whack at this. This is my second wooden boat, the first being the Midwest Sakonnet Daysailer. The Lightning has some significance to me, not really personally, as I have never been in one, but I work at the Skaneateles Country Club, where the first Lightning was launched in 1938. My end goal is to have it displayed in the club dining room and replace the tired old Revell 1:96 Cutty Sark that has resided there for many years and has a great many broken pieces and tangled, dusty rigging. My plan is to paint the sides red, the bottom blue, with a white stripe at the water line to mimic the flag in the club's logo. I will leave the deck natural with a satin finish. So far I think this kit is fantastic and I'm surprised it doesn't have more of an online presence. This will be the first build log of it on this site as far as I know. It has pretty standard basswood and balsa framing with mahogany veneer for the hull and deck. The new instructions, revised in 2009, I think, are superb and come with excellent diagrams for every step, much like a Midwest kit. It's made to be sailed, so the rigging is designed to be functional, the drawback being that it is very simple. I hope to find somebody at the club who will provide me with detailed instructions on how to rig a real Lightning, and then I can buy aftermarket blocks and cleats and rope and such. I will also need to make more accurate sails, as the kit comes with pre-made nylon sails that look awful. Any suggestions on material that would suitable in this scale would be much appreciated! If any of you out there have ever built one of these, please feel free to post a picture, and everybody please leave comments and suggestions, as I know I have much to learn from all of you
  17. Hello I just got a new Dumas kit I know I may be getting ahead of myself but I was just wondering How do I apply the fiberglass resin/epoxy for the finishing layer waterproof/? 1.) Use a brush? 2.) just tape off and pour directly on the surface. or is there another way or recommendations Thankyou!
  18. I've really hesitated to start a build log... At first it was simply because I'd started building without taking any photos for a while, so I figured it was just too late to start a log. But later, because of all the fantastic work I've seen in other builds - you folks are some real artists! - I'm embarrased to show my efforts. But I've browsed enough now to know that a build log is definitely the way to go, there is so much experience and help out there, it's silly to waste it. So I'll upload what photos I do have to this point on my first ship build, and hope that you guys can help me keep my head above water from here on. Or actually I will later tonight when I'm home. This is just a start while I'm eating lunch at the office...
  19. Hello, This is my first build to post on MSW. It's my 4th boat (can't really call them ships yet) in my self desiged ship modeling course. My goal is to start the MS Bluenose 1:64 kit that's been sitting on my shelf for year teasing me... "come on, I dare you, I'll shred your ego into pieces". The first three were small Midwest kits intended to learn the art of planking. This one is intended to get a feel for rigging. I figured how much simpler can rigging get than a small sailboat? So the box. from looking at other threads, this seems to be an old sea salt tradition. unfortunately my picture was not taken "fresh" so it's a closed box shot but... what can I say.
  20. I everybody. Few comment before the photo. The creole queen by dumas is not what expected from me. This is a boat made for RC more then collector,so everything is more...looking for the best word. Never the less,not easy to built. The length is the first problem,to translate all info the boat as tendency to twitch. But i am moving forward. Problem,of yesterday,i fond out the wing of pilot house was to large,so the fence build with coper rod has to be remove for reduction and cut the wing to be equal to the previous floor,so the beam support under the floor will fit.
  21. The George W. Washburn tugboat was launched in 1890 by the Cornell Steamboat Company to move barges and cargo like stones, sand, and bricks up and down the Hudson River between Albany and New York City. She was, during her early years, considered the fastest tug on the Hudson. Since she took on paying passengers, her appearance was kept up. It was said that a Cornell Steamboat could be notices from great distances by the yellow and black color of the smoke stacks. The George W Washburn and Cornell Steamboat Company are no longer around today. This is my first effort at building a model ship. Since I've retired, I felt in need of a hobby and looked back at my younger (much younger) years when I used to build plastic models and a RC aircraft. I remember I always enjoyed building more than flying and thought wood ship models would be challenging and longer project time. I picked the tug thinking it would be a good first build for someone new to shipbuilding and hoped it provided a number of lessons learned. At the time, not being aware of MSW and the tremendous amount of shared knowledge, I looked at the many ships available and simply picked one that appealed to me and looked reasonable for a newbie to start with. So here we go... This kit features laser-cut plank-on-frame construction. The size is: Length: 30" inches Beam: 5 1/2" inches and can be built as a static or RC model. I'll build it as RC capable but with the intent of simply displaying it.
  22. Having built over 12 scratch built static models for friends, family, and museums, I wanted a radio control tugboat, just to do something different. All my previous models were plank on bulkhead models and over time I have developed a quick and efficient (To me anyway) means of building the hulls. Now with choosing to go with an RC boat, I came to the realization that i have no clue how to build one so it is hollow for the motor, batteries, etc., and more immportantly, is watertight. That's where my wife chipped in and presented to me a kit of Dumas' "Brooklyn" Tug for my 60th Birthday. First of all, let me say that i am used to working pretty much exclusively with wood. This kit is almost completely plastic with the odd plywood parts thrown in for good measure. That being said, it could turn out to be a mjor learning experience. So far, following the directions has yielded positive results which was a pleasant surprise considering some reviews of the build on this kit were not so encouraging, mentioning hard to follow directions, etc. As is stands now, the hull has been glued together and the reinforcing stip of fiberglass cloth has been fastened using resin. One thing i will mention is that the fiberglass cloth was a real bugger to get placed evenly right next to the sternpost The more you prodded it with a stick to get placement, the more it unravelled and began to look like a shaggy dog. Another point; The instuctions say to begin the application of the fiberglass strip so it overhangs the stern by about an inch. Caution: Doing so will result in the strip being an inch short at the bow. Apparently there is exactly enough of the fiberglass cloth to cover the seam with nothing to spare.
  23. This following is actually a copy of a post from today I had made to my Facebook page in follow up to a build progress report I had started on Facebook before I had joned this forum. I thought it'd go well here...Although this doesn't show the whole build process, I'm sure you all get the idea of what went into building this and even though it's actually an R/C kit build, I hope no one minds. Here's a long awaited final build update on my Dumas Li'l Swamp Buggy R/C electric motor conversion boat build. I had started this build this past fall but the original electric speed control I'd purchased was DOA right out of the package and I just recently finally ordered another one. Everything works perfectly now but I had purchased the wrong propeler. The one I need is a "pusher" type prop and the one I bought is a "pull" type. In other words, a pusher prop propels a boat/plane forward and a pull type prop pulls the boat/plane....so with this prop on the boat, it wants to pull the boat backwards. There are 3 wires on the speed control and without knowing exactly which does which, I really don't want to try installing wires in a reverse fasion to try to get the boat to run in a forward direction and risk frying the new speed controller so I will be buying some "pusher" props this week. Then it's off to my vacant lot I own next door for some fun in the snow, yeehawww.
  24. Hi All, This is a reposting of the original build log. I know at the time I built it some people were possibly going to do one too. Hopefully the pictures will help. I know most of the text is gone but if you have any questions post them here or pop me a PM. Original Intro: This model is way out of my comfort zone but I thought what the heck. I liked the way it looks and thought it would be a fun challenge. I’ll be using bondo and fiberglass which I have also never used. I figure I’ll have myself covered in both in no time at all. The 1949 Chris-Craft 19 ft. Racing Runabout is 1/8th scale that is 28 inches long with a 9 inch beam. The wood framed hull is covered with expanded pvc and then planked with mahogany veneer. This kit includes chrome plated deck fittings and complete drive line hardware. You can build her as a RC but I plan on building her as a static model. Here are the pictures for the building of the first two frames.

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