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  1. Hello Ladies and Gentlemen, many of you may not know me (anymore) because even though I have been a member of this forum for many many years (even from before the crash), the reason is that I have not posted anything for a long time. I believe this "non-ship" subforum is more recent than my latest buildlogs, and that is the reason I haven't been here for a long time. Now, I wish to accompany my "re-entry" with a log of my latest "work". Even though the model is very close to be finished, I will not post everything just like that ; that would not be a buildlog imho. About the kit... The Modelik Central Pacific n° Jupiter is a paper model to start with, yes, paper and cardboard. We all (well probably most of us) know Doris's fantastic shipmodel in paper and cardboard... I, on the other hand are now where even in the neighbourhood of her level, but I try to reproduce a somewhat decent model. The kit looks great in the book, and most of it (let's say 3/4 of it) is actually fantastic without any issues at all. The biggest problem I had is ofcourse the language ; the instruction are in Polish only, a language I sadly know nothing of. Yes, my frontdoor neighbout is Polish, but unfortunately she is also good looking, and since I kind of had a little indiscretion with my Russion nextdoot neighbour (who is even better looking), my wife would probably not tolerate me going over for translations 🤔 So I am doomed to only follow the drawings and improvise when needed... First steps into the adventure... We start with the frame, or chassis as we say over here : As I know I do not have the skills of a neurosurgeon with a scalpel I ordered the cardboard lasercut set with the paper kit, that is why the frame looks "raw"cardboard. Axl's are made of a rod of steel (or brass) wire rolled in paper : More details are added to the frame, and even though I am (or at least I used to be till 5 months ago) a traindriver myself ; I have no idea what these construction are : But we go on with the frame nonethelesss : The bogie (well, that is of course part of the frame as well) : Then came the wheels... or at least the first batch of them : Four of these : And with some paint on those :
  2. Starting my New Build of 2021.... The "ROYAL LOUIS" 1/200 - Heller. The Drawing of the Hull, the distribution of the artillery and rigging were drawn from a description of the ship's lines by Comte d'ESTAING dated 25 September 1772. The building plans were prepared by the famous Naval architect MR, OLLIVIER. The ROYAL LOUIS was a first rate ship, it was armed with 120 cannons, including 32 x 36 calibre guns each weighing nearly 5 Tonnes. In 1779-1780, ROYAL LOUIS was a lead ship of the Blue-White Squadron, which was part of the so-called "Comte d'ESTAING" America Squadron. Prep work done to Hulls inside and out to make the paintwork more applicable. Cannon carriages started, 4 different sizes, 40 done only another 80 to go, then on to the Cannons themselves. This will be the most time consuming painting within the kit itself, even more so than the stern gallery architecture. 648 parts plus alterations, Big job ahead, quite probably replacing the masts with wooden ones as well. Happy modelling everyone Staysafe and take care 🤺🤺🤺⚓⚓⚓
  3. There are scant details on MSW of builds of this iconic Billing Boat kit, and periodically questions arise, often concerning inherited or partially built models requiring completion or restoration in the absence of plans or instructions, which in the case of Billing Boats were somewhat thin. So, in the spirit of giving some images that may help, I post here my Norske Løve story. I must have posted it somewhere before but can’t for the life of me remember where or when, but I do have my original log and photos. A cautionary note, this is a model I made over forty years ago, so the standard of fittings, and the ravages of dust have taken its toll on the condition. If I knew then what I know now I could certainly have made a better job of her but she remains a model for which I still have great affection, and I have resisted the temptation to upgrade her. Those not familiar with the finer points of our art tend to be seriously impressed by the sight of her. ( Norske) Løve Story More years ago, than I care to remember, before my office was a den of computer stuff, and before the digital age, I had a yen to build a large scale wooden 18th century warship. In those days it was either Billing Boats or Billing Boats, and as I browsed through their catalogue my eyes alighted on Norske Løve. It was the image of the modeller putting the final touches to the model that grabbed my attention, I wanted to be that guy. BB Cat cover Yes, I still have that original catalogue, in those days I actually went to a model shop, can you believe it! Pity I didn’t have the internet resource back then, but I did have the Longridge book and perhaps more importantly the Masting and rigging book by James Lees. Given that the Norske Løve was launched in 1765 it immediately struck me that the round tops provided in the kit, were oddly out of period, more 17th century than 18th The masts and tops were therefore scratch built to proportions given in the Lees book for ships of the correct period. The other main area that gave me concern was the head. In common with many wooden kit models this is a weak area with a less than realistic rails set up. Catalogue shot of the bows These were therefore also scratch built. I made other ‘modifications’ not necessarily in accordance with the plans, such as a skylight on the Poop and removeable skids to house boats which were not provided with the kit. Billing at the time (and probably still are) were in the habit of providing some plastic fittings for their kits such as blocks and Deadeyes, decorations etc. I seem to recall that the fittings kit was a separate purchase to the main build kit. This is Billings catalogue shot of the completed model. The build took me a couple of years, and my office resembled more of a joiners shop than an office. Drill stand and vice screwed to the desk top, wood turning model lathe and dremel permanently plugged in where now the printer and computer stuff reside. Everything was covered in a fine film of dust, but boy how I enjoyed that build. When completed the model sat in a lighted cabinet that filled one wall of the office and that’s how it stayed for some years. With the arrival of computers and the need to use my office for its proper purpose, everything was changed. Away went the cabinet and all the modelling stuff. 1153 Norske Løve then proudly sat uncovered on a long chest of drawers, where it resides to this day. Strangely things have come full circle and in retirement my office once again resembles more of a workshop, but I don’t think the resident equipment would appreciate a return to the heavy sawdust days. So here is the photo collection of my interpretation of Norske Løve, 1120 1127 1134 1138 1139 The head rails were scratch built using yellow pine, but there were several breakages before I got a satisfactory set. The Lower and Middle rails are mortised thro’ the head timbers, and the Main rail rebated into the head timbers. 04 02 I recall the exercise being long, slow, and frustrating. 1151 I particularly like the stern and Quarter galleries with their glazed lights, one of my pet dislikes with wooden kits are false windows or even worse stuck on windows, such as with the Mantua Le Superbe that lies forlornly in the loft. This is one area where Billing have done a good job, there was very little tweaking to this area of the build. 1140 1170 The modified tops, scratch built to proportions given by James Lees. The plastic rigging blocks supplied by Billings were replaced by boxwood versions. 004(2) 1133 1152 The main difficulty with single planked hulls such as this is that there is little scope for cocking it up if you don’t want to hide it with paint. I also have an aversion to stub guns so the lower ports are closed. 008(2) 010 The Poop was modified by the addition of a skylight, and the Ensign hand painted on cotton. The simplicity of the Danish flag lends itself to this method. 007(2) I think the anchors were aftermarket purchases. The Boats 002 005 Boats were not supplied so I had to create my own. 1132 1173 The deck fittings are mostly removeable to assist cleaning which is evidently overdue when this photo was taken. 1145 Dust build up is clearly apparent here. 1135 I really prefer models out of cases, they have so much more impact, and 1:75 scale allows for reasonable cleaning access which in this case takes about three hours every few months or so. I hope those who cross paths with this kit get some benefit from this vintage build. Regards, B.E. 22/03/21
  4. Ahhh - back to the security of tiny world and 1/700 scale ships. While the parts are printing for the corvette and I play with the layout and order bits i decided to start a 1/700 scale ship as a break from the almost industrial scale project that is the Flower Class Corvette I have the Trumpeter kit of HMS Montrose, a type 23 frigate and I bought the White Ensign PE kit to add details. It turns out the Trumpeter kit has quite a decent set of PE anyway but it doesn't have ladders and importantly, no railings. The first curiosity came when thinking about fitting the WE helicopter deck and finding it is considerably wider than the aft deck on the plastic model. As far as I can determine its not supposed to overhang at least in any of the photos I have found. The WE PE is really aimed at their resin model and I suppose its possible that their 1/700 is different to Trumpeters. The safety railings around the helicopter pad fit with their deck so will need to be altered. The WE PE deck is going to be put aside; it doesn't bring much to the detail in that area and would add a step to the deck. I started the bridge structure with the first bits of glitter going on from both sources. The WE PE is finer (hand railings are really thin) but the fret is noticeable thinner than the Trumpeter or Flyhawk sheets so its going to require careful handling. The bending tool is very helpful as usual in forming the parts. This is my first full hull model. I'm thinking about setting it in a modelled sea rather than on a stand so rudders and props may not be used. My initial thought was to finish the ship as "The Black Duke" HMS Monmouth but that will depend on finding decals. As far as i can see the ships are identical in equipment so just the pennant number and name needs changing Thanks for looking and have a great weekend Alan
  5. My first wood model kit of this caliber. I am working on a 1/96 scale Yacht America from Bluejacket and just completed the USS Constitution from Revell a plastic kit with many wood enhancements and under full sail. Here is what I have so far.... This is where I started...
  6. Good day all, I thought I would start this log in preperation for finishing my HMS Warspite build, I have wanted to build a version of the Black Pearl for a while now, but there is no Honest company making a wood kit and only the one decent scale plastic kit, so I came up with the crazy idea of mashing my Peregrine kit into the Pearl. Most inportant Im building this for the wife as a Special request. This will take some doing as the keel pieces and ribs in the peregrine kit will all need modifying with extra pieces adding to them (I am under no illusion this will be a real trial of building skills and my first attempt at a real scratch built ship. I will have to firstly lengthen the keel section/s as the Pearl was about 30 feet longer than the Pergrine - so some additions to be added. So pull up a chair in readyness for this madness - it wont be dull. OC.
  7. So I am between ship models but we are having a pretty crappy Summer weatherwise so far so I decided to try my hand at scratch building the capstan model from the NRG plans and instructions by Tony Levine. I have the tools so I am going to try to build the Advanced version of the model but may drop back to the Intermediate version if I am having trouble. I downloaded the instructions and plans from the NRG site and printed it so I have it all in front of me as I go. I started the build by rough cutting sheets of pear wood from a billet I had in scale 10", 7.25", 6", and 5" thicknesses on my small band saw. I already had a 4" thick sheet. I had gone through the plans and found these to be the thicknesses needed for the majority of the parts. I do have some boxwood that I may use as a contrast but for now everything will be pear. I then ran the sheets through the course side of the thickness sander until I had the saw marks out and then through the fine side until I had the correct thicknesses. I imagine this is pretty basic stuff for you scratch builders but this is the first time I have started a scratch project. The next step will be cutting strips from these sheets for the beams and carlings.
  8. I've made several ship models in the last 10 years. My best work was on the HM Bark Endeavour by Caldercraft, but the model that gets the most compliments is my Anteo Harbour tug. I've been wanting to build another tug for a while and settled on the Marie Felling by Caldercraft. They offer a couple of other tug kits but they are nearly impossible to find at the moment, so I settled on the Marie Felling. This is a BIG model, 43.5" long. It has a Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP) hull and superstructure and is clearly made for RC. I just build for the fun of building, and will build this as a static model. Here's a photo of the GRP hull next to my Anteo. MSW has no build logs for Caldercraft tugs or the like, so I hope that this will give the readers some information about this. There are three good build logs on https://www.rcgroups.com, all of RC equipped models of course. Here are links if you're interested. Marie Felling by Longbike Marie Felling by Rmay Marie Felling by Kaskazi
  9. This is my very first build. I always have been fascinated with model ships from the first time I saw a model in the Chart House restaurant in Christiansted USVI some 40 years ago to going down to the Seaport Museum in Philadelphia and watching some of the members of the Philadelphia Ship Model Society in the Ship Shack (before covid) build their models. A little about myself, just pasted my 64th birthday and looking forward to retiring in a couple of years. I am a mechanical engineer and a partner in a small engineering firm. The last 10 or so years I do more of running the company and really miss do designing and watch my design come to be. I am hoping this will full fill some of missing part of design. While not doing the design but figuring out the problems and challenges that come from building a model. In reading the build logs and seeing what people do is amazing. I was inspired by lraymo and following her as she did her first build. I have chosen the dory because of the Model Shipways Shipwright Series builds on each kit and I download the instruction and they seem clear. I have read about some of the instruction that come with some kits and rather have something clear in the beginning.
  10. From Le Superbe to Le Praetorian – A Heller Seventy-four, after Boudriot This is a summarised record of my attempt to modify a small scale plastic kit by reference to the works of Jean Boudriot. Very few of the original kit fittings were used in the build. This was to be a first attempt at fully detailing a model of this scale, adding sails and displaying in a waterline setting. Early progress Lower deck detail. Upperdeck showing Galley and Pastry oven. One unfortunate fellow is spending time in the bilboes, for swearing on a Sunday. Restyling the Foc’sle rail. Modified waist railings using brass strip.
  11. Maori War Canoe will be carved from Basswood, have not picked which fantail and bow carvings to use, many to pick from see picks. Having no carving experience will start on the hull first. Intricate carvings for fantail and bow will be pear or Sculpy. Read Dan Vads tuturioral on Sculpy and may go that route since after baking it appears as sturdy as wood??
  12. For my first wooden boat kit I chose the Dumas Chris-Craft 1956 Capri. I wanted a modest kit to learn the basics and the kit offers a good introduction. I really like wooden inboard boats – they have a special sound. As a woodworking hobbyist I’m discovering that I’m not used to working with small parts. Since this is my first build, I am including my mistakes. The Dumas kit is complete, they say there are more than enough planks (I have extra pieces after planking). The drawing is very helpful and the instructions provide enough instruction to complete the kit (I’d like to see more tips). I use the plastic base as a place to store the project as I work on it. I’ll replace the plastic base with a wooden one that emulates a slow wake.
  13. Hello all, This log is for a floating grain elevator as could be seen in New York harbor in the early 20th century. These self propelled grain elevators were used to transfer grain from barges to freighters in various locations around the harbor rather than directly from a large elevator on shore. Freighters would presumably fill 'unsold' hold space with this bulk cargo. I became aware of this subject through my interest in railroad activities in New York harbor up until the '60's although these grain elevators were independently operated. I was unable to find as much information (drawings) of these floating elevators as I would have liked but I enjoy building (model railroad subjects) from photos in styrene. I was not sure if this log should be in 1901- present but but the sister elevator to 'Isis', 'Themis' was supposed to have been built in 1898. There is some information and color photos in the book "New York Harbor Railroads in Color" Vol.2 Thomas R. Flagg pgs. 20-21. The photos below are from NPS / William W Barry Jr. (Steamtown N.H.S. DL&W RR glass plate negative collection ) 'Isis' is between two grain barges, unloading them and sending grain down its chutes to a freighter. I have already built approximations of those two barges. Any info about these grain elevators or any rail /marine operations would be appreciated. I will post photos of the current state of the model following this. Thanks, MCB
  14. Steamship Heinrich Kayser Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years. After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly. I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers. It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922 The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows. The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc. The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup Nils Here it Begins..... Build log part1 this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing" this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser overview plan frontsection overview plan aftsection stringers and single-layer planking in pine planking under way, propshaft built in Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan planking nearly completed Part 2 to follow....
  15. I received this kit as a gift. Very excited about it. Here are pics of the box & contents. Pre-reading over the first part of the instructions. Everything I've done before has been more simplified so I know this one will take me longer but I am ready to dive in!
  16. Dear Colleagues, please let me present my first model made from the ground-up – the model of French military schooner «La Jacinthe». From the drafts of the monography Jean Boudriot. I used pear tree and painted hornbeam. Scale 1:42 Technical characteristics of the model: length 895 mm, width 285 mm, height 670 mm. In the process of building I have used as example the works of Dmitriy Shevelev and Slavyan Snarlev. I finished my work on the 23 of September 2016. I had a photo report of the work, I decided to post it, maybe it could useful to someone. My best regards, Alexander.
  17. I was recently commissioned to restore to "Original Condition" A 1:100 model of the steamship Albertic. The model was knocked over and sustained considerable damage to the port side lifeboat deck Funnels and railings along with vents and all sorts of lines and wire stays. I have made extensive photographs of the condition as I received it, and have begun recording the removal of the damaged parts that were still attached, A few surprises that were not evident when I viewed it at the clients premises have come to light. I cobbled together a quick trolley so that I can move the model around, I will make a lightweight dust cover to keep the dust off the model. I will no doubt be calling on the expertise of the membership for advice as I move forward. As tragic as the damage is I am hoping that this will be a good experience and that I rise to the occasion with a smile as things become repaired. here are a few pictures to show the extent of my task. Builders Name plate Port side sustained the most damage Starboard side suffered mostly inertial damage The funnels took a beating because they are heavy and brass A lot of loose parts were piled on the deck in front of the bridge The stern end of the port lifeboat deck is badly bent and twisted The stairs didn't fair too well either Below the port lifeboat deck is the most damage on the hull I am really hoping that this area can be reworked without having to repaint the entire side, we will see? A box of the loose pieces now lifted off the ship Ouch This will keep me busy over the next couple of three months. As I was removing all the big loose parts I was noticing how much of the fine lines and wire cables have also been damaged. many of the parts were attached with micro brass pins, all the lifeboat davits for instance. Michael
  18. Having finished my slightly kit-bashed cross section of the Constitution, which I really enjoyed doing and swore that's the only life for me... I thought I should still learn how to plank a hull. I had already purchased this kit and figured I could learn much and then either go on the more full ships or find more cross sections to build. As soon as I started the mistakes began and continued to pile up, which is why, even though the project started last winter, the build-log did not. But now that the planking is a real mess I figured I'd reveal all and, if nothing else, provide a greatest hits of what not to do. And prove the old adage correct - when all else fails, read the directions (or at least read others' books, practicums, instruction manuals)
  19. Young America - extreme clipper 1853 Part 1 - Decisions I took most of the summer deciding whether I would undertake another ship model and if so, what the scope and subject would be. I had a lot of time to think about this while catching up on neglected home maintenance and repair projects. After deciding that I needed the challenge of another ambitious project, the decisions on scope and subject kept me busy through July. I also had to decide whether I could commit to another Naiad-like build log. We shall see. I received a number of suggestions on subjects and that input is most appreciated. Since I expect this project to span a number of years, the decision was a big one. I have enjoyed wrestling through the process of deciding. I had a number of criteria: 1) significant design/drafting content, 2) fully-framed construction to further explore my interest in structures, 3) a change from the well-trod path of fully-framed 18th Century Royal Navy subjects, 4) avoiding commonly modeled ships, and 5), I thought it was time to do an American ship. Before focusing on the extreme American clippers, I considered, among many other possibilities, a 19th Century American warship, perhaps steam-sail, and looked seriously at some of the ships by John Lenthall, built locally at the Philadelphia Navy Yard – examples: Germantown (sail), Princeton (screw/sail), Susquehanna (paddle/sail). In the end, the idea of the extreme clipper was too attractive to dismiss. To me, this type represents an apex of achievement in wooden sailing ship design and construction – in terms of sleek hull lines, sailing performance, structural development and sheer beauty. In the design of the extreme clippers, minimum tradeoffs were made to the one paramount design parameter - achieving the shortest sailing times between far-flung ports. Speed meant not only sleek hull lines and a spread of canvas, but also the strength to withstand continuous hard driving, day-in, day-out. After deciding on the clipper – and an American (meaning all wood) clipper - I chose the work of William H. Webb of New York. It would have been easier to select something from his more popular competitor, Donald McKay, but McKay’s ships built at East Boston, have long been widely modeled – Staghound, Flying Cloud, Lightning and others. McKay’s papers do include substantial structural detail – very tempting. Webb, too, has left papers, and these have been explored, with information published in the secondary sources I have used. There are many gaps, but there is a family resemblance in details to all these ships and many practices and scantlings were commonly adopted. Webb presented more of a challenge – in more ways than one – as I will describe later. Of Webb’s ships, I chose Young America, built in 1853, his last extreme clipper. Less is known about her construction than some of his others, so the task of piecing her structure together is more interesting. I will discuss this, the ship, and the extreme clipper era in the next posts. Below is a photo of Young America, docked at San Francisco, a frequent port of call for her. She was built mainly for the East Coast to California trade. In the picture she is rigged with double topsails - a modification from her original single topsail rig. There are also some paintings of her. She was considered Webb’s masterpiece – one of his twelve clippers in a list that included renowned ships like Challenge, Comet, Invincible, Flying Dutchman – all of these examples being 200 to 240 feet in length. YA enjoyed a thirty-year career that included fifty passages around Cape Horn. She set a number of sailing records and earned a ton of money for her various owners – and for those who made money betting on passage times. In 1883 she left Philadelphia carrying 9200 barrels of Pennsylvania case oil, cleared Delaware Bay and was never heard from again. The model may be fully rigged. I will decide later. With the hull length involved (240’) the scale is likely to be 1:72, but that is not yet cast in stone. Structural drawings are well along and I expect to start construction later in September. I hope these posts will be of interest and perhaps draw some attention to this somewhat neglected modeling genre. Ed
  20. hello, i thought i'd share my project here, cause it should be somewhat different then most of the couronne models i've seen built, and may be interesting to some........... it will be an occasional entry showing where i'm at at a given time rather than a complete build log, as i really don't know what i'm doing, or how to do it, day to day, since, aside from the basic drawings, much will have to be made up...... as i live in a small town or village, i don't have access to many materials, so when i had the opportunity to get some cherry wood locally, i grabbed it, not realizing that the swirly grain after varnishing, would show up so much....but i'm living with it and am continuing the build.....if the grain will bother me too much below the waterline, i'll paint it white....... i found that varnish made the grain to dark and exposed, so i used polyurethane, which was better, although the wood looks dark below the lower wale because i used epoxy resin and 2-1/2 oz cloth finished with urethane.....the resin also darkens the wood......i coated the inside the ship with 6 oz cloth and epoxy resin....weighs about 20 lbs now..... this is where i'm at so far.......the hull is around 6 feet long...total should be under 8 feet and hopefully will be sailable.....using the drawings shown, but will make many modifications...the lines were of low resolution, so i had to do much guesswork.... made some windows from mesh bag, painted black, and poured on some polyester resin....but the resin disolved the black...so used epoxy resin....but the fibres in the mesh started coming undone and it looked messy...so i got an aluminum mesh screen from an exhaust vent i butchered, painted it black, and used the epoxy resin, and i'm satisfied with the result..... made a madonna for the stern out of super sculpey, but may do more work on it later so well see what happens next.......
  21. A few months ago I started on my new project, it will be my third radio controlled submarine. "Auguste Piccard" was built in 1963 by the famous inventor family of the same name, who also built the bathyscaphe "Trieste 2", which reached the deepest point on earth. Auguste Piccard was a electrically powered submarine able to carry 40 passengers to the bottom of Lake Geneva, where the World Fair was held in 1964. The boat is reported to have made over a 1000 dives, transported over 33000 passengers and was recently completely restored and is now displayed in the "Verkehrshaus" in Luzern. A 30 meter long submarine in a landlocked country! I took a lot of pictures of the sub in that museum during two visits (one before and one after the restoration). I was lucky to also be able to make some photos of a book on display with a schematic drawing. I've not found any real drawings, though there is an actual model sailing around in Germany - I'm not the first to build her. The model will be 1:25, making the model 1.10 meter and 10 kg. Here are some pictures. Freek
  22. Ok, so this is my very first build, and here's what I've learned so far. This is going to be harder than i thought, but surprisingly enjoyable, trying to do this. Also, I've confirmed I am not a perfectionist! (this could be a blessing or a curse!) Step 1: I thought I'd try the harder beginning, that is, gluing the 3 bottom planks together. Apparently I took the instructions to "prepare & sand" the planks too literally, because they don't fit flush together. Not to worry, I used an enormous amount of glue trying to get them to stick. I tried to wipe off the excess with a brush and water, but that seemed to just water down the glue, and the pieces would not bind. So I used isopropyl alcohol, dismantled everything, and tried again. No such luck, but i found that if i placed the pieces together, ran a bead of glue over the top and let it sink in-between the planks, it might hold. As you can see in the photo, although it is "holding", there is daylight between the planks! Although catastrophic if at sea, (and I'm trying to build an "authentic" boat), I went ahead and attached the cleats (one of which is too long), just for practice. Oh, I also found that a toothpick works well in removing excess glue. Not sure if that's the right way to do this, but its working for me! I've decided to call this a 'trial run" for me to practice on, and I will now use the "backup" one-piece bottom to continue (because this first try might fall apart during the rest of the build) but at least I am learning! Next post will hopefully show a completed step one (one-piece bottom of boat with cleats!) Showing my failed trial run here... (not sure why my pics are coming out upside-down!)
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