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Found 17 results

  1. Welcome to my HM Flirt build log. This sister ship of the more famous Speedy is a Vanguard Models product and Chris Watton design. For those of you who joined me on my build of Chuck Passaro’s HM Cheerful I'm letting you know up front I’m taking a more casual approach to this log. One reason is while I enjoyed doing it, my Cheerful log took almost as much time to prepare as it did to build the model. There I felt like so much of it was a new discovery for me or a skill I didn’t have when I started, I wanted to share it all, and as I noted in that log, to motivate others to embark on their own Cheerful build. As for HM Flirt @James H has already posted an outstanding build of this vessel, his log and photos are amazing. In addition @DelF has a terrific log for his build of HM Speedy. While the models represent two different actual ships, they are similar for model construction. I highly recommend Derek for his clever techniques and build quality. So if you didn’t stop reading or already deleted your checkmark in the ‘follow’ column I hope I can entertain you a bit as I move through the build. I feel a little bad, Chris was kind enough to ship me the first Flirt, Master Shipwright Edition kit sold. He marked that occasion by sending this laser engraved board with the kit. I had elected to start Cheerful first so I’m not the first kit started, or even close to it. James’ log provides a detailed layout of the box contents, I won’t repeat that here, but I do want to highlight a few things. Any builder starting their first model or enjoying their tenth should buy from Vanguard Models. From basic to advanced (I’ve already ordered HMS Sphinx) Chris provides the best pure boxed kit available. His designs are innovative, the accompanying instruction manual is thorough and detailed with both text and photo descriptions of every step, the many plan sheets are precise and comprehensive, the PE is plentiful and equally innovative, he includes accurate resin cannons, and as an option a beautiful pear block set. On top of all that the wood, both laser cut sheets (he does it himself) and strip wood are of the best quality. No brittle, discolored walnut breaking apart before you can use it. While the regular version is pear (a beautiful wood for modeling), the Master Shipwright edition is all boxwood. There is nothing like opening up the package and seeing all that gorgeous boxwood. (On a side note, I’m not sure if he’s producing any more Master Shipwright Editions, you’ll have to check with @chris watton, he’s here on MSW Forums). Just a small diversion before moving on with the build. This is the just completed model my 8 year old granddaughter and I built over the summer. Her choice of colors and painting. She and my wife made the sails, I helped guide the build but the majority of the work is hers. I made the stand from left over Alaskan Yellow Cedar and added the brass plate to commemorate the finish. Anyway…proud Papa. Back to the build. I started as we all do by fitting the bulkheads to the former. The Master Shipwright version provides these in birch ply, as I shared with Chris I think prefer MDF at this scale, at least the quality of MDF in Vanguard kits. The ply isn’t the easiest to fit together and sanding takes a lot more work to get the same result on MDF. This is high grade ply made to be just as it is, quite firm and durable. I double down on gluing, first in the slots and then along the slot seams using a brush. The wood will break before these joints do. -4866T Though I didn't take a photo beforehand I thinned the deadwood and along the sternpost before adding any of the bulkheads using my finger plane and chisels (easier to do with the former laying flat). I elected to thin the area to 2mm, I still want enough for the sternpost to attach to the former. There is plenty of meat in the first planking, I can thin as needed to eventually match the sternpost to the thickness of second planing. I added filler parts 19 and 20 to the bow area, and thinking I knew what I was doing without consulting the instructions I added part 21 next to those. However part 21 is for the stern area, not the bow. It won’t hurt anything to be there and in fact probably helps, so I just fabricated part “21b” from the bulkhead sheet scrap and added it to the stern, problem solved. The instructions call for fairing these filler parts and the first and last couple of bulkheads before installing to the former. I was a bit reluctant to do this but was glad I did, especially with the unyielding ply. I used my Dremel with a sanding drum and was careful not to overdo it. This just in, wood doesn’t go back on once converted to sawdust. I’m going to use the maple engraved deck that comes with the Master Shipwright Edition. I lightly sanded it with 320 grit, added a coat of WOP, and repeated those steps twice more. I think it looks great and for this model it will be the deck. I’ve planked plenty of decks, I’m looking forward to this simple approach this time around. The lower deck is also engraved ply, in addition to supporting the frame it adds a nice touch to what little can be seen through hatches and deck ladders. Just for fun I added red paint to this area and later to other pillars and beams partially visible on the lower deck. There’s also a door, I’m not sure if it will be seen but it’s cool knowing its there. After first installing the four stern frame parts I added the counter. I soaked it in water, rubber banded it to a piece of PVC pipe I keep for the occasion and let it dry. I soaked it again then glued and clamped it using a round dowel, and idea borrowed from Derek, to get and keep it the designed curve. Next up was the transom, I had to maneuver the stern frames a little to get them in the right positions, hence the extra clamps. And really why use one or two clamps when eight are so much more fun, and no the ship didn’t tilt backwards…much. I used Titebond wood glue for everything described so far. I gave it a day to dry before moving to everyone’s favorite part of a build, Fairing The Hull. There is no overstating how important it is to take my time and do this right. It took me two days, with breaks in between, to get it done (I’ll have to note the high quality birch ply made it more fun, adding to the time). The instructions recommend using one of the lime strips as a batten, I prefer a much thinner more flexible wood strip to run along all the bulkheads (the blue tape is just for the photo), using it to identify and remove imperfections to get a smooth run. Up, down, in the middle, at the ends, 3-5 bulkheads at a time. When it contacts everything it spans without gaps I’m almost there, I do it all again because I know I missed something, then one more time after I’m sure I’m right, cause I’m not. This is more obvious at the bow, very often I find the overlooked part of fairing is not stem to bulkhead 2 to 3, it’s the turn from 3 to 4/5, when the sharp bow starts to become the wider beam. Also always a challenge and a later regret if not done right is the steep slope required from the counter to about three bulkheads forward. I got the starboard right but had to fight to get the port side to comply and stay equal to the port. With my dusk mask set aside and my room dust filter turned back to normal from its highest setting the frame is faired and ready for gunport patterns and the first planking. I didn’t mention it, but notice other design features Chris has added. Both the lower and upper deck are also frame support, two lengths of beam are installed running fore and aft for both deck support and squaring up the bulkheads. An innovation I’ve never seen is the boxwood stem piece with slots that serve as the rabit for the planking. This part is notched and slotted between the fillers, it the last thing added to the frame. It wasn’t there to be scarred by the fairing process. It is also the base for the interlocking stem that won’t be added until later, thus saving it from a beating. How many of us have scratched and damaged the stem, normally a part of the frame from the beginning. Cool stuff this Vanguard Model. A few further thoughts on fairing: I leave the back edge of the char on the forward bulkheads and the front edge on the aft bulkheads as a guide when fairing to make sure I keep the hull’s proper shape. I also start taking micro-measurements of the width and height of bulkheads at the bow and stern at multiple spots to match port and starboard. It’s pretty easy to get carried away and get it all lopsided. It’s also important to not say good enough. Most if not all the char other than the edges I mentioned should be gone when you’re done. Oh, and I think parts 21 and 21b worked out just fine once faired. Gunport patterns and first planking are next. Time to get out the plank bending station. I guess I wasn't very brief after all.
  2. Afternoon! Ok, this one is going to take me a little longer than the prototypes of VM's Fifie and Zulu! I'll try to keep this updated as often as I can if there's some real interest. Flirt is based on the previous Speedy kit, but with some notable differences. The model itself won't have a launch as standard, and there are differences to the rig too, plus the deadeyes are replaced with pear wood heart blocks. She also won't be coppered below the waterline, instead being painted white. Before I kick off with the hull, I built the temporary cradle. This is only temporary as there's a clear acrylic one for the finished model, and I don't want to use that until I really need to. Onwards with the prototype! Again, these are photos that will eventually be in the instruction manual, and not regular bench build images. The regular kit will have 3mm MDF for the main hull components. I quite like this material. It's easy to sand and takes the nails and glue real well. There will be a Master Shipwright version where the MDF will be replaced with birch ply, but that will be very limited edition! There is actually a little birch ply in the standard kit, replacing the MDF stern frames. As you'd expect, everything just drops together, and those that are building the Speedy I'm sure would testify to. The bulkheads, minus the bevelled ones, are now glued in place. There are also two parts which support the lower deck ends. These are also now glued into place. One difference to Speedy is the replacement of the lower MDF deck with an engraved ply deck. This, as before, fits in four sections. With the deck in place, glue is brushed un the undersides. That'll give more strength, and some rigidity to the outer portions of the deck edges. That's it for the moment. I've been so busy that I've barely noticed I've been in isolation for over a month. It's one way to make the time fly! More soon.
  3. Hello – have decided to do HMS Flirt as my next build having seen the excellent reviews and build logs of various Vanguard Models ships on this site. Chris Watton has certainly done a beautiful job and was somewhat hesitant to make a start on this build as it will probably be downhill from here and not do Chris any justice even though the instruction book is a work of art on its own. Have followed James H and gone for a white background instead of my usual black but have not as yet got any clever photoshop programs to improve the backdrop. Anyway first stage done. For some reason which I don't know why I decided to fill in the vertical gap on bulkhead 10 using the part from the mdf sheet. Door fixed in place and a small eyelet and blobs of glue for door handle. Thanks for looking. Regards Doug
  4. We’ll, I’ve got the itch again, and the only way to scratch it is…. Here we go again. By the time I was about halfway through my build of the Vanguard Zulu “Lady Isabella”, I was so impressed with the design, engineering and quality of the product that I thought I should get my hands on another of Chris’ kits, before they proved to be no longer available, for some reason. It’s pretty clear I didn’t need to worry, as it seems that Vanguard is a success, and I hope that Chris is making a go of the business. Nonetheless, I bought the HMS Flirt kit, and it’s been sitting on the shelf, waiting for me, since the middle of last year. I bought the standard version of the kit, because I just love the color and the quality of the pear wood. I know lots of folks love the boxwood material, but I just think the color and character of pear is preferable, at least to my eye. Personal taste, I suppose. But the Zulu had such beautiful details rendered in pear, and I really love it. I did purchase the optional pearwood block set, and the optional ship’s launch “mini kit” which comes in its own adorable little custom cardboard box. It’s almost like it’s a model for one of my daughter’s “American Girl” dolls. So, off we go. I’ve been building for about a week, so I’ve gone a little bit down the road. I’ve been taking some photos along the way, and I’ll be posting soon. My goals with this build is take on something a bit more complex and challenging than the Zulu, and to learn a lot as I go. I’m planning to stick pretty closely to the stock kit and Chris’ plans, but I’ll likely add a few custom details along the way, as appropriate and as I pick up skills and ideas (that’s pretty much how I approached the Zulu). I’ll probably rig up the cannons, for example. Any ideas you all have that you think would be helpful or interesting, I’m all ears.
  5. I ordered the Flirt and monday or tuesday she will be arriving. She is not so big as the previous builds that I make but I think it should be fun. Lenght overall : 656 mm Height overall : 492 mm Width overall : 230 m But first a little history: The Flirt was ordered together with Speedy in 1781 and both built by Thomas King, a private shipyard owner based in Dover with Flirt being launched on 4th March 1782, three months before Speedy. The Flirt/Speedy class of brig-sloops were the second class built to the new flush decked brig-sloop designs, the first being the Childers class of 1779 (Childers was in the very first action that led to the long war with France from 1793-1815, after being fired upon on 2nd January 1793 from a French battery based in Brest, a cannon ball from the battery being taken to the Admiralty in London). Both the Childers and Flirt/Speedy class were almost identical, and it would be difficult to tell the differences. Both were around the same dimensions, mast plans and armament and crew compliment. They also shared the same very graceful lines, more cutter-like than brig. These early flush decked brig-sloops had a graceful sheer and steeply raked stern, unlike the later ‘mass-produced’ Cruiser and Cherokee classes. The term ‘Brig-Sloop’ means that she was a two-masted vessel, and on the Navy List sloop was a term given to a vessel which was commanded by an officer with the rank of master and commander. Flirt was 207 tons, the length of her upper deck was just over 78 feet and her breadth was 25 feet, 8 inches. She had a crew of between 84 men and 6 officers, with only two of the officers being commissions, the commander and his lieutenant. Her armament consisted of 14 x 4-Pounder carriage guns and 12 x half-pounder swivel guns, but posts for 20 guns, as the swivel guns could be taken out of their posts and moved and placed in another post. Flirt and Speedy were completed too late to see any significant service in the American War of Independence. She then spent most of the years of peace in British waters. She sailed to Jamaica in 1791, but was laid up in Deptford in November 1792, and did not return to service before being sold in 1795. Daniel Bennett purchased her, had her almost rebuilt, and then employed her as a whaler in the Southern Whale Fishery. A French privateer captured her in 1803 as Flirt was returning to Britain from a whaling voyage. Now we have to wait till she is here and we can start. Sjors
  6. I started a build log for HMS Terror (my first build) and it's been going OK. Not giving it up but it's on a slight back burner for now because (cue drumroll!) I've availed myself of a Master Shipwright edition of Chris Watton's new HMS Flirt. That's the danger of reading all of the amazing build logs on here. It gives you a terrible compulsion to buy another kit! Well I have sensible, logical reasons for going for one of the Vanguard models kits. They seem to be state of the art in kit design from what I've read on here. Plus they have a cracking manual and no corners have been cut. All things that make life a bit easier for a beginner like me. Anyway, I went for the master shipwright version because there's no mdf in it and that is a substance I like to avoid if at all possible. The kit arrived today and all looks great. I've assembled the stand and dry fitted a few of the bulkheads. Bulkheads and false keel are made of top quality 6 layer birch ply. Fit of the bulkheads to the keel is perfect. They go together with a satisfying click, there is no play in the joint, and they're perfectly square to each other. What more could you ask for? I don't get anything done quickly as I'm a carer for my disabled son and have to do what I can in the little down time I have - so I might be a while getting this done. Working with such a lovely kit will ease the frustration of that for me.
  7. For touch-up work, I'm looking for a small tin (10 - 14 ml?) colour equivalent of Plasti-kote's Red Oxide 400ml spray primer (matt acrylic?). I've used Plasti-kote spray primer Red Oxide on a hulls etc for a couple of model ships .... I got it from here .... Plasti-kote 25002 400ml Primer - Red Oxide https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasti-kote-25002-400ml-Primer-Oxide/dp/B006XBST08/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=plastikote+red+oxide+primer&qid=1590226003&sr=8-1&pldnSite=1 (Note: the Amazon image shows a dark orange colour... in reality the paint is closer to a medium brown with a hint of red. ) At the moment if I need to do touch-up I take the 400ml can outside and spray some paint into a small container and then dip my brush in that. It's very wasteful. I've seen some forums mention Tamiya XF-9 or Vallejo 985 as possible substitutes for red oxide but I'm not that up to speed on paint similarities. The colour match would be 'good enough' to fool the eye but doesn't have to 100% exact. Anybody have any suggestions? Thanks, Richard
  8. I wasn't planning on doing a build log for this because I'm sort of a quick and sloppy builder and I don't see that it would be much of a benefit for the forum. There are some great builders here that create masterpieces, I am not one of them. But I need a way to procrastinate when I don't feel like working on the kit (or glue is drying) and I know this is an excellent place for information if I have any questions. So my posting of this log is for purely selfish reasons. 😀 Guess I'll get right into it. Pic of box, seems like a good starting place. Bulkheads dry fit. (They fit excellently) Bulkheads glued with the lower deck set inplace to make sure the bulkheads are aligned correctly. Now I wait for the glue to dry before I continue...
  9. Hello fellow builders. I have just completed the second planking on my HMS Flirt (Standard Edition). While I am reasonably pleased with the outcome, it is not perfect as there are small cracks between some of the planks. Can anyone recommend a good wood filler that would help address these imperfections? One consideration is how it will look on the unpainted areas - I'd like the colour to match closely the pearwood. Many thanks in advance for your advice. Peter Halpenny Ottawa, Canada
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