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Found 16 results

  1. I bought the Harold Hahn book, “The Colonial Schooner” a while back. This is an excellent book. It has the plans for the Hannah and a couple other schooners. Harold Hahn built his models in an admiralty style. I’m not that good. I like to build plank on bulkhead. However, the book has hull lines and where there are hull lines, there can be bulkheads easily made. I have discovered that card works beautifully for me. So I am starting with this: and turning it into this: The picture is from the US Navy’s History and Heritage Command. I chose the Hannah because I would like to make a relatively quick build. Schooners have very easy to make rigs and are relatively simple to make. The Hannah has a very simplistic design with a simple head and no decorations at all. She will make a nice change of pace from the Victory. I am building in 1/72 scale because it is a very convenient scale that is large enough to get as detailed as you want without having to work at super small scale. It will also match the Prince de Neufchatel’s scale.
  2. Hi All, It is time to start a new challenge for me in this hobby. I have been looking for a scratch build model for a while now. One of our club members gave me the plans for the Rattlesnake using the Hahn Harold method. After looking at the plans and reading about this ship, I decided to jump into it. Here are the fully rigged model dimensions: Length: 37" Breadth: 12" Height: 24 5/8" Some history HMS Cormorant was probably launched in 1780 at Plymouth, Massachusetts. She was commissioned as the Massachusetts privateer Rattlesnake in 1781. The Royal Navy captured her shortly after she set out on a cruise and purchased her. In November 1781 she carried to England the first news of General Cornwallis’s defeat. The Royal Navy registered her under the name Cormorant. In 1783 the navy renamed her Rattlesnake and paid her off and sold her in 1786. Rattlesnake was probably drawn by John Peck of Boston, Massachusetts, and probably built at Plymouth in 1780. She was very lightly built and was reputedly very fast. Rattlesnake had the appearance of a miniature frigate, with detached quarterdeck and forecastle. Rattlesnake was commissioned on 12 June 1781 under the command of Mark Clark (or Clarke). She had barely begun her first cruise when she encountered the 44-gun frigate HMS Assurance, Captain James Cummings commanding. Assurance captured Rattlesnake on 17 June. He sent her into New York, where she arrived on 8 July. The Royal Navy purchased her on 28 July at Boston. (Wikipedia). For the past few months, I have been asking a lot of questions to my club experienced builders, read a few books and studied the plans. I had decided to use Cherry for the frames. First, I created the jig to handle the frames. I used a jigsaw to remove most of the waste. Here is my first mistake. I am not sure why but I started to use a copping saw to cut the notches in the jig and few rasp. None of the angles were perfect. I have scroll saw, why did I not use it?!?!?? Here is the damage Here is the redo one with the scroll saw. Much better Jigs are cutting all the frame components. A lot of them but all angles and lenghts are covered I will need around 450 pieces to make them. To practice and test I made some billets made of pine (2by4). Here is the jig in action. Colored the frames for use of locating where each of the parts are going. Made a new crosscut sled. Next step, preparation of the cherry billets . Pictures to come....
  3. This will be my build log for a scratch-built, 1:32 scale, plank-on-frame, admiralty style model of "Hannah", purportedly the first armed ship recruited into Washington's navy during the Revolutionary War. I've wanted to do a full hull scratch build at this larger scale, but what ship? The choice was not completely arbitrary. Even a 5th or 6th rate frigate in the Royal Navy would be 4-1/2 feet long at this scale, not including the bowsprit! Obviously I had to look elsewhere. I settled on Hannah because it is significantly smaller (this model will be 24" long with a 6" beam) and there was a lot of documentation out there regarding the model. I have Hahn's book as well as his plans for "Hannah" to use as a reference. The actual building plans were drawn by Bob Hunt, based on Hahn's original drawings, and were done in 1:48 scale. I had them resized to 1:32. The drawings show each individual futtock and include detailed drawings of each frame, including bevel lines. The model will be built in an upright jig, as was my 1;32 Armed Virginia Sloop and my 1:32 "Blandford" cross section. The frames, stem, keel and stern will be boxwood. I'll decide on other woods as I move along with the build. Thanks for looking in! Here are some shots of the plans and Bob Hunt's "Hannah" model along with a link to his website. https://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/
  4. I started a new model with Navyboard technique. For this project I am using Harold Hahn's drawings and the model will be in 1:72 scale. I hope to be able to do something good!
  5. Why scratch? I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never close to what I want. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood (read - kit wood). And I am not ready to tolerate a bad quality in the kit. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway. It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important? Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. So I take Remco's motto - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime". Why Hahn? For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig! Why Oliver Cromwell? This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard. But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
  6. After cleaning up the shipyard a bit, here goes.... New framing wood has been ordered but due to Jeff at Hobbymill's schedule it won't be here until late (very late) April. I'm planning on using up my existing stock of swiss pear, ebony, pear, silver maple, and cherry and maybe some boxwood if I see fit. At this stage, I'm poring over the plans and notating such things as wale, gunport, and deck clamp locations on the individual frame drawings as I'm planning on putting some reference points on the frames physically as I cut them. This should solve some of my previous issues.. With 60 frames, this is going to take a bit. I have a new build board laid out and prepped but not cut. The frame reference board is ready to go. I'm still making a final decision on whether to stick with cherry or go with boxwood for the keel, stem, and stern items. Version 1.0 sits forlornly in another part of the shipyard waiting for various bits and pieces to be cannibalized. I'll be re-using my old fabricated measuring tools and making some new ones. Hopefully, by the time the framing stock arrives, all the plans will be annotated and scanned, all the bits and pieces from V 1.0 will be cannibalized, and bunches of new bits will be fabricated and then ready and waiting. It's time to do this beast right and proper... and to have some fun doing it. Footnotes to the build: I'm adding to this as I discover things. The Hahn plans lack a lot of details so additional sources will be needed. a) Hahn's "Ships of the American Revolution" is a must to understand the building method. b) I also recommend the "La Belle Poule" monograph from ANCRE. This has period bits and pieces along with the proper rigging as Hahn used La Venus which has pointed out to me as being from a later period.
  7. I have finally finished Hannah. My main purpose for building Hannah was to begin plank and frame modeling. That is one reason I didn’t include the rigging. The other reason is that I’m not crazy about rigging.The case was made out of old Mahogany that a friend had stored in his shop. I now plan to work on Halifax the second ship Harold Hahn discusses in his book The Colonial Schooner. I plan to include the rigging on Halifax.
  8. I have always wanted to make a plank on frame ship model. Hannah seems like a good place to start. I am using Hahn’s plans and his book The Colonial Schooner. I am using boxwood, ebony, and holly in the construction. I have just completed the beams an ledges. Holly decking comes next. I sort of hate to cover the under decking after all that work. It looks like fitting the decking to the stanchions is next. Any advice in doing that would be appreciated
  9. I had originally decided to build my Confederacy kit from Model Shipways before building the Raleigh, but once I opened the box and put the bulkhead former together I noticed that it was warped. Emailed Model Expo and have a new one on the way. Since that build is on hold and the fact that I want to build and not wait; I've decided to start my US Frigate Raleigh build from the Hahn plans that I have. The plans and timbering came from the Lumberyard. The ship will be in 1:96 scale. The timbering is cherry for the frames, keel and stem and holly for the decking. The timbering did come with some laser cut parts for the stem, stern and keel. Guess I'm kinda cheating, lol. I really hope that I am up for the challenge of a Hahn style build. So far, I have cut the 1/8 cherry strips into the pieces to make the frame blanks and have started gluing the frame blanks for the cant and half frames. There are 33 of those and 78 full frames. I suspect that it will take roughly about a week to finish gluing up all of the blanks. Anyways, on to the pics. As always, any and all comments are welcome. All the pieces for the half and cant frames, 34 each. The pieces for the center full frames, 33 each. The pieces for the rest of the full frames, 12 each. Some of the half and cant frame blanks glued up and drying.
  10. As the planning starts, so does the log. With my admiralty hull finally back home after a month road trip around town I am more convinced than ever that a cross section is needed. With a variety of questions being consistently asked about the layout of the internals and how did this or that happen, the cross section would be perfect. Being a cross section it will fit on the mantle but also bring home the resultant size of the full ship with the full main mast being present. The first question is where to define the cut lines. After looking at the plans I am looking at the following layout (frames 18-27): Being a Hahn plan, there are no knees defined (not seen at all in the full model). In this case they will be seen so I will add those in. I am a little lucky in that this is an American built cargo ship purchased and converted by the British. So......I do not necessarily have to follow exact British standards of the time. I am pretty sure I will put in at least one futtock rider. I am thinking of fully planking the outer hull inside and out both sides, but then one half of the inner hull decks will be left with all floor beams exposed. The fully deck planked side will be fit out with ballast, water and food casks, cannon (kids happy about that) with associated tools and probably a hammock or two. The rigging will be that which is possible. I am thinking about having sails (lower one furled). I have picked up the masting plans for the Brilliant / Druid in the possession of the Smithsonian. That is a big help. Lots of scratching of the head on tie down positions with the added quarterdeck extension. Now to start on the frames. I will not use the short cut frames jig provided but will go with more of wood saving futtock by futtock method (modified) - still using the inverted building stand / jig. Stay Building my Friends, Mark
  11. Greetings (again). Returning to MSW after a bit of off time (eg I just completed my 5th sprint triathlon). I have not been idle and have lately been kicking it into high gear with my version of the HMS Druid. Believe it or not, started in 2003 (two kids and a couple of homes ago) but looking to finish in the first quarter, 2014. I have loved every minute I have spent - probably a little over 300 hours so far. I just finished with the bow assembly (sans the eking rail which will wait until the cathead is affixed). Previous to that was the stern caprail. I believe I am on the downhill of this build. Next up is finishing the rudder metal work and then working up from the berthdeck finishing all the details. Additionally I have made progress on my Lady Anne and finished the DaVinci wing (currently on display at the Michigan Aviation Academy), but that will be a subject for another day. Mark
  12. About Me; I have been modeling for over 30 years. My other hobby is HO model railroading. At time when I had the space, I was into railroading, when I did not have the space, I built ships. This is my second non-kit built ship; actually the second iteration of this ship. The first attempt was not good; so I started over. This time is much better. I am disabled; I have no legs. The first was amputated several years ago and the second, a couple of weeks after the first. I tell you this, not for any other reason, other than to let you know I do things differently. Mostly as a result of my disability. For instance, I do not use power tools, except the occasional Dremel. I live alone and am housebound; I have been told that my social skills have been slipping lately. I guess I would rather model than talk; please don't take this personally. About my Ship; She is a work of art; and as such, I will construct her in the most pleasing way possible. Of secondary importance is the historical accuracy; firstly the Hahn plans and timbering set and secondly other reference materials at my disposal. I have a substantial personal library and, of course, access to this site and other internet locations. She is and will be all natural; no paints or stains. She is built by hand, every piece cut, shaped, and glued by me by hand. I purchase slab wood to the thickness needed, cut it slightly proud, and plane it to final size. The only exception to date are some gratings from left over kit parts. Her framing and superstructure are of Alder, with the darker pieces of Walnut. The red furniture is built from Redheart and the yellow wood is Yellowheart, Boxwood, or Longhi. And of course the black is Ebony. As is typical, her port side will be fully planked, but her starboard side has windows to her soul. She will be fully rigged, but with only some of the sails shipped. Officially I laid her keel on October 1, 2014; she is aging gracefully. Apparently my pic files are too large to attach. I'll have to work on that
  13. Starting my build log back up for the new site. This is the HMS Alfred timbering set from Lumberyard. The ship is the 74 gun HMS Alfred from 1778. Scale is 1/8". The framing is Swiss pear wood, and the build will also include some cherry, rosewood, apple, maple, South American boxwood and ebony for the details and planking as included with the set. The ship is being built upside down using the Harold Hahn method which isn't a bad way to do it, but I would never do again as it wastes way too much wood for my liking. My plan is to fully plank one side of the ship and leave the other side unplanked. My plan is to fully plank the gun deck and not include any of the interior details below that level, then to leave some of the upper deck exposed to see down into the gundeck. I'm finding this scale to be a bit on the difficult side, but the model is a nice manageable size. This certainly isn't a speed build, but most of the framing is done. Adam
  14. Hello, Fresh start is sometimes a good thing, the new forum looks much nicer and already while attaching "new" pictures it's evident that usability is improved. Anyway, I'll try to recapture my log so far with five pictures of reaching the main stages, which I consider to be checking what's inside of timbering set (the fun part), completing framing, planking, deck support structures, carvings and current situation. I must warn that there's slow phase in my build at the moment -- plastic models (not ships!) are taking more time than wooden ones, and I intend to build road bike wheel set before summer as well -- but I know myself and I'll return to this build eventually. I'm mainly posting this first post already now mainly to say I'm OK with the full reset. (My La Belle (1684) build is on hold, and I'll resume its log once I actually continue working on it.) Pasi
  15. Although I am not yet finished with my current build, I went ahead and decided to buy the plans from Chris Hahn (Harold Hahn’s son). The ship is the Pelican which was captured by the British from a French privateer when it was still the Frederick. Harold Hahn described the history in his book and also showed how he made this rather small ship model. I was intrigued by the fact that it is made with frame and plank construction (something I have not yet done) but yet is mostly planked, whereas most of his other models leave the bottoms open to show the frames and parts of the interior. This model has one side fully planked, but the starboard side has a large section that is cut away to fully show the interior along with a couple of the frames. I like that idea since it gives me a chance to show the actual hull construction as well as the living quarters and storage areas of this ship. Harold made this model to his usual 1/8 to the foot scale. I decided to increase that to 3/16 or 64:1. Hence the first thing I did was to enlarge the three drawings in the package from Chris. The reason I am starting this log is to show what I have done thus far. I wanted to make sure I have some idea what I am getting into, what kind of tooling and materials I need and then put this aside until I am finished with my Conny. So, what have I done? At first I thought I would go all out and use boxwood for the frames. I quickly found out that to do that would mean throwing a lot of nice wood in the garbage can. Harold made his frames by laminating several pieces together such that the grain runs mostly in the ‘strong’ direction, but also he used two pieces on top of each other with the seams located in different sections, thus strengthening the whole part. He also basically used one shape for all of his ‘solid’ frames and another for the canted frames and those that are attached to the deadwood and stem. I followed his method and made a couple laminates, glued them up and cut out one frame. The picture above shows that I used strips that were 1.5 inches wide by 3/32 inch thick. It also shows all the waste involved. To make one laminate uses six different shapes. The angles of these shapes varied from 90, 75, 60 and 45 degrees. A lot of setups and pieces!! At this point I re-designed this by using pieces that have only 90 and 45 degree cuts. I also reduced the width from 1.5 to 0.75 inches. This saves a lot of material and is also easier to rip. Even at that, I used poplar wood since most of the frames don’t show any way. Those dark areas are not burn marks. It is part of the wood coloring and has no effect on the strength. To be sure, this does not work for all the frames. There are a total of 45 frames and I was able to make the new setup work for 20. For the others I had to go to one inch wide strips and make two fixtures as shown below. But I still was able to limit the angles to 90 and 45 degrees. Again I made sure that there are no narrow cross sections with the grain running in the ‘wrong’ direction. Harold had a nice idea for cutting the pieces from the strips. He made a fixture that fitted his table saw. It had cutouts for each piece. I did something similar but instead of a cutout for each segment, I made ‘inserts’ (marked with a black dot) that would allow me to cut the six segments using only two slots. My table saw has a sliding table which is real handy for this kind cross or miter cutting. After the two patterns are edge glued, they are laminated back to back. For this I will be using the fixture with the three toggle clamps shown below. After fine tuning the height of these clamps they can apply a lot of pressure. I will be using PVA for this bonding, and, yes, wax where glue might stick to the fixtures..
  16. This ship caught my attention the first time I saw the plans because it had a white flag. Laughed a bit until I researched it. But then the lines caught my eye. She's a 32 gun, frigate of the 8 pound gun class. A bit of history... built 1755 in Brest. Not too much in the way of history available except for some highlights: 1756 - Carried troops to Quebec. 1757 - with Marsaint's divsion on the 21 Oct. A "most bloody conflict" with the British off Santo Domingo. No ships lost on either side, but a high casualty count. 1762 - expeditions against British shipping and the Sale pirates. 1778 - she was part of a small fleet in company with Le Belle Poule, Hirondelle and Le Coureur. They ran into Keppel's squadron. Licorne as surrounded and captured. La Belle Poule had a famous two-hour duel with the British and escaped to a nearby bay.For the next five years it was known as HMS Licorne in the British Navy. 1783 - Sold out of the service. From the plans, it appears to be a good beginner scratchbuild. Clean lines, minimal carving. Some things from the Hahn plans needs changing such as the mast caps and the cannon rigging. I'm still researching via Boudriot and Frolich. I'm planning on completely planking her, but that may change. Anyway, I ordered a bunch of Hahn's plans a few years ago out of curiousity... guess I was walking down the primrose path to the minefield and here's where I've landed. Not knowing what to order in the way of wood.. I guessed and ordered the wood for the Confederacy from The Lumberyard since both are 3/16" scale. Blew it a bit.. keel on the Confed is 1/4", on the Licorne... 3/16", same for the frames.. Luckily, I have a thickness sander... unluckily.. that's a rather large pile of wood. But, I'm happy. I'll make the frames a tad thicker and order some 3/16" sheet for the keel, etc. Next time.. I'll study the plans closer. So... here's where my build begins. Started by scanning and copying all the plans as blueline prints fade with time. Laid out but not cut the building board. I've enclose pic of what I've built to date: Pics of the Famous Ed Measuring Tool and my frame jig. Pic of some of the framing wood with my thickness sander (daunting in person). And lastly.. a work in progress... my shipwright. Currently looks like Krylon the Cylon, but he'll get better. Once he's finished, I'll properly name him and start building frames. Due to the website crash, all the descriptive stuff is gone. I'll post all the pics to-date and then start text, etc. on my next post.

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