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Found 6 results

  1. Christmas came early this yaear I just got my new model Halifax. After I ordered this I looked around and found an Italian forum and they said that this was not a ship for everyone, pretty hard to build and I found some pictures of the keel with frames that was was very comlicated. Each frame were to build of 9 pieces and a special jig came with the kit. But the was not good so he had to make a new, And so on. So I was a bit worried but when I opened it today it looks good. No strange frames, the step-by-step instructions seems to be good and they even have pictures for every step. I'm really looking forward to start to build it and I will do that parallel with the Thermopylae. I will probably ask thousands of of questions and I hop someone is kind enough to help me on the way Booklet with step-by-step instruction and photos The bags with parts have the part numbers in it so it's easy to find everything Wish me good luck
  2. Build Packet Schooner from Mamoli Halifax kit Here we go again on another adventure. After building schooners of 1802, 1853, and downeast Schooners 1894, 1906 and 1921, I wanted to get back and learn about the design of the early schooners. I shall put together a brief posting with some of the references I have been reading. Today I just want to get the general introduction as to what I am building and why. I live in Maine and shall remain most interested in the maritime history of this region. I include all New England and maritime Canada as the region. I shall leave it to the true authors to record all the real back ground, and shall simply summarize a few points…….again from what I have read and seen to date. I always look forward to more research in this area and appreciate some tips already received through these logs. It is well recorded in Boothbay, Maine that starting in early 19th century 'Pinky' and similar schooners were being built . So, where I am going is to build a few known designs taking some liberties to improve my understanding of the evolution of the coasting schooners. I would like then to build some representative schooners that were built here. That starts with pre-Pinky and ends with the 10 four masters built in 1921. See my Charles Notman where I built it to be a prototype for sailing size models . It had a documented design I could use to learn. I chose the kit Halifax as a first build in this adventure because she represents several things of interest to me: · She was built I believe in Nova Scotia as a Packet in 1768.…Harold Hahn's book on Colonial Schooners gives a great history of her. · She was taken over by the British navy in 1770, which means there are very accurate drawings. I believe it should not be too difficult using common sense to reverse engineer and remove features that would only have been done for a navy vessel and I shall speak of that in the bashing process. Harold Hahn said if one goes to the actual admiralty drawings there are tick marks indicating what was to be changed in the lines. He then listed several items that he believes were added. · There is a fun Maine story that she sailed into Machias, Maine trying to recover stolen cannons . Unsuccessful, she hired a pilot to get back to sea. The naughty pilot reportedly steered her onto a reef and the ran away in the night…….She was lost to the US...wow score one for new England rebels. · She was a subject of the renown Harold Hahn. I was able to get plans of her as well as Challeur, a sister ship in the small British group in late 1770’s. This gives us accurate drawings of another boat a little bigger. Apparently there was a second Halifax commissioned by the British navy after the first one was lost in Machias, and some confusion that i plan to evade So what am I building? Each Christmas time I have fun on ebay as a flurry of models seem to come available and if you are diligent a good deal is in the offing. A few years ago, I bought the Mamoli kit, and it has been sitting on a shelf. So, as I continue to work more sparingly on Bluenose, I have started this kit. I am also bashing another kit of a plank on frame version of a similar schooner. i feel it is important to learn how to build the whole frame, so concurrent with this build, an unrecorded first attempt of plank on frame is also on the bench. I plan to use that partially built model as a partial framed out hull in a dock yard diorama, so it shall not have a build log or name. Working on it in parallel does help explain though the slow pace this build might take on this kit. I must also say I plan to ignore what I call the navy embellishments. So I shall take images from a few Harold Hahn diorama views to confirm what I believe to be pretty straight forward. Fishermen nor early 'packetmen' did not have great windows in the cabins, lions on the stem nor guns on the decks. Also as a yank and building a representative boat using the Halifax kit, I see no reason not to take liberty and declare I am in 1:48 scale. The kit as being metric is 1:50. Yes I have metric rulers!! I may change my mind later but what I am building is 53 feet on deck and not 55+. Again I will also need to change the sailing rig to represent the commercial Canadian build and not the British Navy redrawn sail plan with top square sails etc.. That change could be challenging, but it is my goal. lets start....Step one the frame So first of all I opened the kit and found myself amused by the way they [ mamoli ] do things. The drawings are exploded isometric views, the instructions are pretty basic and off you go. I bought a set of Harold Hahn plans and I go there for questions. I cleaned up the bulkheads and keelson assembly ready to put together. This model is small compared to my usual work, so I made up mini blocks to use to square up the bulk heads. Surprise. The interlocking under deck ties everything together. So without too much trouble we get the bulkheads on in the first day. I wonder how true they are?...we'll see Cheers
  3. Hi all! This might be a long shot but was wondering if anyone has come across the Aeropiccola Halifax model as I am looking to track one down.
  4. Hi, Am new to this forum but have been making model boat kits for around a year now. To practice planking techniques I started with the kits which had to be smoothed and painted as the full size ships / boats were steel hulled. I'm now moving on to older ships which have timber hulls and have been trying to do some research on the web I'm part way through a build for the HMS Halifax - originally built in Nova Scotia in 1768 and have been studying other builds - both kit and scratch. The kit comes supplied with mahogany, but I see from many images that above the water line, most modellers have chosen different wood for the planking. I understand that most ships of the time would have been painted in one form or another, but I think the models look good using natural wood finish as it shows the planking workmanship off - for better or worse! What I'm unable to find during my research for this and a couple of future builds is what the full size ship was actually planked in. I've found reference to type of timber harvested in the 1800's from Nova Scotia as this would be the logical timber used for ship building in this area but there is a large variety of tree's being harvested and suspect many would be unsuitable for ship building. What I'm also unable to determine is if they would have imported hardwoods even though they had a ready supply of other timbers grown locally. Also complicating things is once the ship was transferred to the British - was it refurbished with native woods, or possibly even imported hardwoods such as from India etc. For a ship that is apparently very well documented I'm really struggling to find the answer - I suppose at the end of the day, most would think it unimportant and to finish as I see pleasing but would like to try and at least be true to the original ship. I'm also ignoring using nails supplied with the kit and intend to use 'tree nails' (apologies if this is not correct term as all these shipping terminology is sometimes confusing to a newbee landlubber!) - so I'll be reducing some dowel wood or other to suitable dimension to represent the original fixings and same issue applies - were these made from the same timber as the planks or were they different (other kits I've used this technique on were basewood planking so the use of toothpicks passed through a tremel achieved a result that was pleasing as the 2 woods were close in colour but different enough that you could see the actual dowel heads) - if the same wood not sure if the fixings would stand out sufficiently to make the extra effort worthwhile but using a different wood completely would look a bit wrong. Any advise or help would be greatly welcome. Next builds in no particular order will be the Thermopylae, Cutty Sark and Norske Love so same issue again, though I plan on copper sheathing the Cutty Sark at least. Regards
  5. Hello all I was just lurking on eBay, and see a nice looking Halifax admiralty style kit being offered. I says it is made by the Unicorn company, and the box has what looks like Japanese writing. The seller is in Moscow Russia, and the kit ships from Russia. Also offered is a HMS Druid kit, plus various blocks - 3-9 mm in single double and triple. Has anyone ever heard of these guys? Thank you for any info. J Sherrod
  6. Hi all, The HMS Halifax is my first scratch build project after many kits. I've chosen this ship because the original navy plans still exist and also because it is a nice looking ship. Harold Hahn has made a complete and detailed set of plans based on the original, so enough info should be available to build an authentic model The Halifax was originally built as a merchant schooner in 1765. In 1768 she was purchased by the Royal Navy and converted into a 6-gun ship for coastal patrols against smugglers and the upcoming colonial unrest. During this conversion at the Portsmouth dockyard the detailed drawings were made. I like small-scale models, so I've chosen a 1:80 scale. The model will be approx. 25cm from bow to stern. You may wonder why I have not chosen for a more standard scale like 1:96 or 1:87 (H0). The reason is a practical one: I don't have any sawing machines and in 1:80 most sizes and dimensions are a multiple of 1mm, This means that I can use my extensive supply of kit wood The build was started last month, so there's already some progress. In the next post I will give an overview of the work so far. Arjan

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