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Hi, I am back again but this time I have taken on a nice challenge. My brother purchased me this wonderful kit for my birthday (which is tomorrow, October 3rd) because of something that happenned 42 years ago! I had built an airfix (plastic) model of the ship back when I was 15. My twin was a little jealous (I guess?) and once it was complete he smashed it. It is something that he has regretted all these years. So, for my 57th birthday he redeemed himself in the best possible way. The kit arrived from Australia this morning. I am very excited! -
Started going over the instructions and list of materials before I begin this great ship. -
ANOTHER H.M.S. Victory build log! But this one will be different. I’m going to skip all the hull construction and shroud installation and climb right up into the rigging. I haven’t any choice really since there are no photos of that part of this build. I started this model in 1997 or so, it was my first ship model. I’m starting this build log January 10, 2015. H.M.S. Victory needs no introduction but I would like to place this model into the context of my personal background. In the 1990’s I was not even vaguely interested in ships, I was an aircraft nerd and I built 1/48 scale plastic aircraft kits. One day I bought a copy of The Price of Admiralty by John Keegan, a popular history book containing essays on different aspects of naval warfare illustrated with historical battles as examples. I got the book for the Battle of Midway content but upon reading the rest of the book I read about the Battle of Trafalgar for the first time and I was fascinated. Around the same time New York City hosted Op Sail again and I saw many traditionally rigged ships for the first time and this helped the fascination deepen. Finally, I had been reading Fine Scale Modeler since I was a kid and for a certain period in the 90’s they used to run this full page ad on the back page of every issue. Maybe you remember it. Another year went by and I couldn't shake the idea that I wanted to build this large daunting complex plastic kit. I finally got the kit and started building it. -
I'm doing this thread on the HMS Victory which is the current project. I've made good progress on construction, but I'm going to put the construction steps here and let it react before posting the next ones. All texts are those of a French forum, simply translated by Google Translate. Excuse me in advance for grammatical mistakes or syntax ... (2016, December) I have the Artesiana Latina kit at 1/84. The skeleton is mounted, I must attack the hull. This boat once mounted must be about 1m25: big bug! But before plunging headlong into curling for a very long time, I do as usual, a pause to think about what I want, what is done, how to tint, mount, etc ... For this, I gather a large library of models, photos of Victory, various docs. In the kit, no plan to scale, but a dvd and prints format A3. It bothers me a little not to "see" it in real size ... Moreover, I saw many Victory perfectly realized ... it does not interest me to remake! These two facts pushed me to wonder about this boat. I looked for a monograph close to the scale, I just ordered the monograph of the Superb at the AAMM (Association of Friends of the Navy Museum): a 74 french guns of the 18th. Conclusion: I will not do the real HMS Victory! But I will use this base to make a three masts of the eighteenth ... I will choose my colors and shades, change the castle, adapt a balcony or 2, perhaps redo bottles, adapt the kit in fact. I am going to make MY model respecting the historical codes, but not a copy of this ship. Of course, I will use the elements of the kit, but I will extrapolate according to my desires. In short, we'll see! Here is the end of sanding couples and keel (a long time to do everything clean), gluing the whole and a first bridge just screwed to maintain properly and check the squareness (2 couples deformed on the top, but nothing irrattrapable). I have a little attacked the sanding to border, but this step will be long, I will be very careful and take my time. It's so important to place strakes next. -
Hello to everybody. Finally started the long voyage. I ordered HMS Victory Caldercraft from CMB and received it just a few days later by UPS, very well packed. I was a bit busy and could not start on it right away. Apart from that I was still undecided whether to install lights on it or not. In the meantime I prepared a rotating board to build it on and did some research on available led’s. I was also browsing HMS Victory Caldercraft builds on MSW. Very nice builds going on, congratulations to Gil Middleton, Seventynet, Rob G, Heinz746, Robert22564 and Dominic. I enjoyed going through their builds and tried to absorb some ideas. So my first decision to make was ‘lights or no lights’. If I opted for the lights I knew it was going to delay the start of my build as I had to do some planning beforehand. After some research on lights available and on builds with lights, I decided to go for it. I think the end result will be worth the extra effort. I sourced small 3mm yellow flickering led’s, candle effect and ordered some of them together with the resistors to see their effect. I dry fitted the keel and bulkheads and literally spent hours looking at it trying to plan how to put the lights in the lower and middle deck gunports. I don’t want the boat to look like the Titanic lit up for its maiden voyage. I decided to put a led in each gunport. I experimented a bit and tried to put the lights in a position where they give a very subdued light, as of course there is nothing to see in the lower gunports, except the dummy rails for the cannons. I wanted to create the effect of a very dim light where the gunports are still a bit dark but you can still see a very dim light with a candle effect. Finger crossed the final result would be what I am hoping for. I also planned from where to pass the wiring for them and for the upper decks. Another thing which was bothering me was the power supply for the lights. I do not want to use batteries as in the future I intend to put it in a glass case and it would be very inconvenient to have to remove the glass case each time you want to switch it on or off. On the other hand I do not want any cables showing coming out of the model. I decided to take out the cables from under the keel and through one of the mountings and base board of a future glass case. I drilled three holes under the keel, two to take the mounting rods and the middle one to pass the wires through. Now that I have visualised more or less how to install the lights for the lower and middle deck gunports I prepared the holes for the wiring in the bulkhead as it is much easier to drill them at this stage, painted the inside of the bulkheads black, and started gluing the bulkheads in place, taking care to have them all at right angles with the keel. Here goes a few images of my working table I prepared and the start of my build. It is going to be a slow start because of the lights. HMS Victory Kit arrived by UPS very well packed. Prepared a rotating working table for the model. Cut a tick MDF board, fitted a tv turntable to it and fixed to the table. The table is on wheels as well. Glued the walnut Stem and the front keelson to the main keel. Prepared and numbered the bulkheads. One of them was not pre-cut properly and repaired. Drilled the holes in the keel for the mounting studs and the hole through which the power will be supplied to the model. Fitted a nut inside the keel to take the mounting studs, and also reinforced the sides of the holes. Dry fitted the structure, sanding and making sure the joints fit without needing to use force. This is the method I used to bend the dummy barrel strips. I steamed the strip in a pot then put it on a flat surface and while rolling a jam jar over it, pull up at one end, repeating this process until the desired bend is achieved. Immagine there are better ways to do it, but for the moment worked fine. Started work on the lights. I cut small squares from a circuit board on which I mounted a led, resistor and a pair of wires. I drilled a whole in each gun port on the dummy barrel strips through which the led’s protruded from the back. This way I did not have to do all the soldering on the model, all I had to do in place was to loop the pair of cable to the next one. Each time I soldered one in place I checked all is lighting up so I don’t find any surprises later on. On the led’s if you switch polarity, it will not light up. Painted black and started gluing the bulkheads to the main keel making sure they are perfectly square. The middle gun deck is only dry fitted for the moment. I have to do the wiring for the lower gun deck first. Installing the lights. The red and black wires are to supply the upper deck lightings, which I still have to plan as I go along. Will appreciate any comments where I can improve, change or am doing any tasks the wrong way. Robert -
Hey all, I have been lurking around here for quite some time. I've posted before but real life and work just kept my bench time at bay. Hopefully now I may have some time for myself - or at least I'm pretty determined to make it so ... Tempus Fugit on many levels in seems! I hadn't meant to open this thread so soon, but I've been struggling to get an answer for the most basic of questions (well I think it is)? My see me out project is that of the HMS Victory, in this instance the Heller 1/100th scale version, lots of reasons, both for the subject and for the medium - non of which I shall bore you with right now. Suffice to say I'm trying to be very grown up about this project? I have in fact had the kit itself for over a year now ............................. As proof of honest intentions.................... and to show those who've never seen the box - it's a whopper!!! Now most importantly, I have procured a bag of those little plastic fellows - just because I think they're great and add a fun twist ... (this is not going to be a museum piece build). It took me over a year but I finally managed to justify the cost and reasoning to purchase a set of Daniels etch sheets - so far telling myself that I'm supposed to be a modeller ergo I resisted the resin - this may have been a mistake ... we'll see? In a fit of excited anticipation I made these ............ as yet unproven and unbloodied - not strictly true as I managed to injure myself during the cutting out of the frames! oopsey .... soz! I didn't think they'd take up so much room in the thread - but you can see 'em? I've just ordered some weird special scissors - "Dental Castroviejo Noyes Spring Suture Scissors Curved". I have it on the best authority these are the dogs when it comes to rigging, plus it was he that told me to buy them (just a fiver). Anyhoo .................... all this brings me to the question!!!? ............. where in the UK ('tis where I am located) is the best place - both price and service are a consideration, .................... to source aftermarket items such as Thread, Ropes, Dead-eyes, Blocks and general model accessories such that I may need?? - Pretty please - and thanks. KBO ... Andi. -
Ahoy Mates First and foremost "Welcome to my Log" From the manufacturer Corel's H.M.S. Victory is designed with a double planked hull in limewood and walnut, with tanganyka strips for planking the deck. All wooden parts are laser-cut to facilitate assembly. Lanterns, railings and other fittings are brass, gilded cast metal and walnut. One hundred cast metal cannon and carronades are burnished for an authentic appearance. Brass gunport frames open and close with hinged lids. Display stand, five diameters or rigging, flags and hammock netting are provided. Fourteen sheets of plans plus an instruction book guarantee a faithful replica. I bought this kit on a whim, my shipbuilding had stalled, it was on one of ME's Super sales (reduced twice), and I was weak, in need of a fix. I had been eyeballing the kit for the last nine months, following similar builds here on MSW, pondering whether or not I would ever be up to this task (this last part is still TBA) and of course watching the price.The owners of Model Expo's recent post regarding their desire to sell may have had some influence on my decision to pull the trigger on this purchase. Regardless I have opened the can and we are now officially at "doors" As this will be a side project for at least the next year (maybe two) please understand future posts maybe few and far between. I have decided to tackle one of my demons on this kit and that is to build it completely using OOB rules (out of box). No upgrades, no side projects, no, I think this would be better if's, but just as Corel designed it along with a practicum of sorts here on MSW. Official OOB modeling rules do allow for painting and I might go there. With that said I will start this build off with a review The box is in a word "packed" and weighs about 11 pounds. Parts were well packaged and in typical Corel fashion; all bulkheads and many parts are precut and bagged. The included lumber was all first rate, cleanly cut, and I would believe "hand picked". I did not find one unusable piece in the entire kit. The Strip lumber was packaged separately in its own box; some bundled by size and type, others a jumbled assortment which will require some effort to sort and identify. Cast pieces come in their own vacuum formed organizer and most are either the gilded brass or the bronzed finish common in most of Corel's offerings. Detail is nice, a step up from the Britannia I have seen included in many other kits . Fourteen sheets ( 2 full sized, 12 half sized ) show both 2D and 3D images of construction steps and various details are included. Accompanying all this are what might be the worst instructions in the industry. Yes that little book is all you get. On a scale of 10, 0 being no instructions I will generously rate this at a 3. In Corel's defense it is listed as an advanced kit and the little book does include what could be considered a basic outline. Conclusion: Corel's version of the HMS Victory looks to be a great kit. Wood and parts are for the most part "top notch". I found one small knot in a 1mm by 1mm strip of walnut and no laser burn what so ever. I do however have some reservations regarding the pressed wood used for the stern and some trim pieces but do not believe them to be a major concern. Overall, I am very happy with my purchase at this point and would have little hesitation recommending this kit . Value wise it is untouchable. Next on my list is to complete the inventory process, and post some close ups. If there is anything you would like to see, now would be a good time to ask.
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i start this ship at January 18, 2010 still in progress of Building i belive it took time more than the real on i restart working after year and half of stoping it i just finish all the cooper things and next week i will start to finish all the plank and gun port hope not taking long time to finish -
I have always wanted to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale. I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated. some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs -
Hello everyone Are we re-posting everything from start of the project, or from where we are at present contents http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/403-hms-victory-by-kevin-caldercraftjotika-172/ workshop makeover http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/403-hms-victory-by-kevin-caldercraftjotika-172/page-2#entry7118 beakhead chase cannons http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/403-hms-victory-by-kevin-caldercraftjotika-172/page-5 -
First off, would like to say thanks to Paul0367 and his amazing build so far, that hopefully I can avoid some of the pitfalls on this build. Next I would like to add, that this is not a historical representation of the Victory but more a decorative interpretation of her. That being said, I hope to build the majority of the kit to be more accurate and in the end it’s all part of the fun. Refference galore with all the usual suspects in there, Longbridge, McKay, Goodridge, etc Victory and man of war related as well as others. Commenced the build at the end of February, so now have some build to start sharing. Some framing Using the 4 butt shift method for deck planking, instructions in the kit are basically to lay big long lengths. On to the main deck Deviation here, decided to use walnut, narrower strips rather than the Sapely that is supplied. Also to add a little detail with the windows, as in the kit these are just left as blank bulkheads. So onto the next stage, did find this keel clamp by Expotools at a 1/3 of the price of the Amati, must say have found it to be of decent construction and allows me to work on the model in many different angles. -
Hi there, I am a former Merchant Seaman in the UK. I made a plastic model of the Cutty Sark over 35 years ago on my first trip to sea, and about 12 years ago decided I wanted to do another one, a bit more adventurous this time though.. I bought the mamoli 1:90 scale plank on frame model of the HMS Victory.......... I am about 90 hrs into it, I know, that's no time after all those years, let me explain: My son was born 13 years ago and I bought the model on the weekend of his 1st birthday. I set to and put the frames together and started planking the decks, and the first layer of hull planks. all was well, till 9 years ago my daughter came along, and I haven't really done much to it since.. We moved house 5 years ago and when i had got my "boat-shed" set up I told "Er - indoors "I am now gonna be able to get back to building the boat, to which she said " yes, you can, when the bathroom and separate toilet room are knocked into one, the log burner is fitted, the kitchen is extended and the kids bedrooms are done, oh and i also want the loft boarding out...." Well, all done, I am about a month away from finishing the house, just got to build my son a new set of wardrobes for his new bigger bedroom (we dont need the dining room at the front as we have a large kitchen diner at the back of the house now!!! so he is moving downstairs. madam just needs a bit of plastering in her room and bingo.. here are a few pics of my boat so far, many many more to follow. I have recently watched a youtube video of someone building same boat, different kit and I realise with horror that I may have dropped a big clanger. he put his guns on each deck as he went along, I just followed each instruction page step by step. My question is: SHOULD I HAVE READ FURTHER INTO THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE FIXING EACH DECK AND PLANKING THEM, HOW DO YOU GET ALL THE GUNS IN PLACE NOW???
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I have been building the Heller HMS Victory in 1/100 scale. I am looking for an experienced modeler who can rig it. The model is painted, mounted on a base, and will be completed to the mast installations. I am in the Chicago Area and prefer somebody within 200 miles that I can bring it to. Quick turnaround desired. For this I am offering $1000. This is for a personal display of a customer of mine and I must deliver it by March. If interested in putting some cash in your pockets, contact me at kamartin512@aol.com -
Having accidentally deleted the previous posts, this is a new start. Over 70 years ago, I thought that the Dragon had the most beautiful lines of modern sailboats, and my opinion hasn't changed since. Sure, there were many boats that caught my attention from 8 meters to J boats, but to me, the Dragon had the lines of a classic sailboat before rating rules dictated changes such as plumb bows, reversed transoms, etc. I've sailed and raced a Penguin, Flatty (Geery 18), Coronado 15, Lightning, Soling, 26' sloop (Halliday) and Cal 40 but never a Dragon. Building the model is my vicarious way of gaining that experience. My last model, HMS Victory was a six year adventure, but at 83, another long project doesn't seem to make sense (I'd like to see the end result). There are only a few Dragon models on MSW. Cap'n Bob pleased his wife with a second build, 1:48 scale and Dee-Dee recorded a brief but detailed version of the hull. Borge used the Billing kit to build a cruising version with fine detail and exquisite metal work. I haven't the experience to replicate Borge's metal work, nor are metal lathes, drill presses, etc. considered proper decor in our den/office (condo). I've had a Billing Dragon kit for 20 or more years and it supplied the basics for my build. More on the kit quality later. The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker (Norway) in 1929, gaining world wide appreciation as well as Olympic Games status. Specifications are a fractional sloop rig (Bermuda rig), overall length of 29.17' (8.89m),displacement of 3740 lb. (1696 Kg.), molded finn keel of 2200 lb. (998 Kg.) and an upwind sail area of 286 sq.ft. Other designs with similar sail areas include the Star, Etchells 22 and 5.5 M class. The venerable Star boat carries about the same sail area for it's 22.9' (6.92m) hull and less than half the displacement. Star. The 5.5 M was designed as a developmental class as a slightly smaller and less expensive alternative to the 6 meter, at 31' (9.5m) displacing 3700 - 4400 lb. 5.5 M The Etchells 22 is perhaps the most similar design to the Dragon. Designed in 1966, the Etchells has an overall length of 30'6" (9.3m), displacement of 3324 lb. (about 400 lb. less than a Dragon) along with a finn bulbus keel and a reverse transome. The sail plan is very similar to the Dragon noting the location of the fore stay in the on deck photo. Next, the kit and beginning of the build. Cheers, Gil -
Hello, I am considering HMS Victory for my next project. I've decided that before I begin the Victory, I'd like some input from others who've done one. I would appreciate your input and frank appraisal of your kit, the manufacturer, and whether you would use them again if starting over. If not, then which? I would use a kit as a basis but would likely engage in some bashing to enhance authenticity. I would also likely use a good reference like Longridge or one of the many others. Ideas on resources are greedily accepted. Input on wood quality; fitting (wood and metal) quality; plans quality (completeness, readability, accuracy); instruction (readability and accuracy of descriptions, quality of illustrations); accuracy of description of masting and rigging; etc. Any input that you would like to share would be most gratefully acknowledged. Many thanks, Chris Miller
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I have a Heller HMS Victory 1:100 scale model I am building. I am unable to read the blurred loop sizes for the sides of the ship and several other locations there not just small there illegible. is there anyone that can help? Clear instructions, references, anything.
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My Caldercraft Victory build has been in the dry dock for 18 months and I'm not sure if and when I will return to it as I'm waiting for the release of Chris Watton's HMS Victory build which I'm really looking forward to building. I'm currently working on HMS Pegasus but thought it would be fun to also build the Model Space 1/84 scale model of HMS Victory using the 24 month subscription. I choose this kit because there are some really useful youtube videos and it looks an really interesting build. I have now taken delivery of my first month subscription and I'm now look forward to making a start on this build. Pictures of the instruction manual Pictures of the parts received with first delivery -
Greetings! Yip, that is right - another build log for the famous HMS Victory. With that said, I am not going to post any details about the actual ship itself, as there is a ton of info available already. I bought this kit a while back from a second hand site for good price below retail. After building two ships, and busy with another at the moment, I feel confident enough to start with this project.. This is quite a big model kit ship, from AL's website, the following specifications are given: Dimension: 1230 mm long, 825 mm high and 450 mm wide. Scale: 1/84 As can be seen below, the box comes with all sorts of goodies - actually - a lot of goodies. The are a few interesting stuff included with this kit that I haven't encountered before with other AL kits: They actually supply you with tweezers A baseboard you can assembly (see later) when you are done with the false keel. A feedback form in the back of the Manuel where you can rate the kit, instructions etc. and give comments. A CD and booklet with extra info on it (I still have to see what is on the CD) An addendum sheet of corrections to the instruction manual. The above is a welcome addition to their kits - just wish it would extend to all of them in the future. The addendum sheet has three points of correction, I am still trying to figure out the last point, since the English grammar used is very confusing ( I have read better manuals translated from Chinese than this). At this stage, I am not sure if I will paint the model or leave it in the natural wood colour. At this stage, I am leaning to painting it, and adding copper plates to the hull. -
Build underway Hi, you may well have followed the link from my temporarily suspended build http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11039-hms-bounty-by-bryanc-artesania-latina-scale-148/ and you'll see the Bounty languishing in the background in the photos below. That build will continue shortly, and probably during breaks form this new build of the HMS Victory Bow Cross Section. -
I'm getting nearer to finishing my Heller HMS Victory and I am at the stage where I am literally tying up loose ends. I had installed all the running rigging but most of it was left dangling and not made off to anything so I could have flexibility and access to the deck. Now I am belaying the lines going from fore to aft. The foremast looks great and the bow area is now clear of Irish pennants and lose ends.. , But I have come across something I find odd: the Fore Topsail Braces belay to the second skid beam. This strikes me as an odd and awkward and hard to access place to put these frequently used lines. There are many lines of running rigging on a ship, but the Fore Topsail braces are on the short list of lines you will be using all the time. And they are lines which will be under a LOT of strain and which will require a lot of crew to take up on. . John McKay, Longridge and the Heller instructions themselves have them belaying in this odd place (although the kit instructions may indicate the rail at the forward edge of the hatch, the kit has a molded on pin where the others say the lines belay). Lees doesn't specify where they belay in his section on Fore Topsail Yards. . The lines begin on the main stay close to the main mast then run to the blocks on the yardarms. From there they come right back to lead blocks on the stay, close to where they originated. From there they run forward down the stay to another pair of lead blocks on the stay above the belfry, and from there to a lead block on the forward edge of the hatch (or a fairlead in a timberhead there?) then belay to a fore and aft pin which pierces the second skid beam. The references I have that show the pin show it several feet away from the gangways, not within easy reach of someone standing there. . The only way this makes sense to me is if the crew were intended to handle the line from the gundeck below. Which makes me wonder then why it wouldn't belay on a big hefty cleat on the bulwarks there. Why above their heads in a place difficult to access? Why not on one of the timberheads at the forward edge of the hatch? The way it is rigged it zigzags through space quite a bit and I believe it could have been lead nearly anywhere with the resources it is using. So why is it 1/4 of the way inboard on a skid beam, which I believe would be a difficult place for anyone to manage it?
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I've wanted to build the Victory for some time now and it is certainly the largest build I have attempted to date. I previously built the USS Constitution and a clipper whose name I forget and I have an AL King of Mississippi build in progress so I have some experience. All that of is course is no guarantee that things won't go horribly wrong at times! These are the reference works I will be using, which is another way of saying that I may not follow the Billing instructions (if indeed that is possible given their chronic inadequacy) *McKay, John (2000) The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Comprehensive line drawings of pretty much everything) *Julier, Keith (2004) The New Period Ship Handbook (Has a whole chapter on building the Victory, albeit based on the Jokita kit) *McCarthy, Ron (2001) Building Plank-on-Frame Ship Models (Useful general reference) *Nepean Longridge, C (2012) The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships (An unbelievably detailed account of ships of Victory's class) *Goodwin, Peter (2012) Haynes - HMS Victory. Owners' Workshop Manual (Tons of pictures plus other useful stuff) ... plus hundreds of photos gathered from the Web. The idea is to complete the model as she stands in Portsmouth today, rather than at the time of construction, ready for Trafalgar, and so on. I've modified one of my workbenches by fitting a rotating build cradle made of extruded aluminium. This allows the model to be spun around with minimal effort. The first issue to resolve is the missing down staircases on the Upper Deck. Thanks to fellow forum member shihawk and his excellent build log for alerting me to the omission. I certainly don't intend to plank over where the hatches should be, as they will be visible through the skids from the quarterdeck. Instead I'm going to build two small sections of the middle (gun) deck to support the bottom of the staircases. I figure that it will be a lot easier to do now rather than later when space will be restricted. This is how I intend to do it: Please note: the diagram has been corrected subsequent to the original post such that the stairs are now the right way around. -
Hello Finally after looking at the box for almost ten years I have started on my Caldercraft HMS Victory. A lot of other projects has gotten in my way during the years and this will be a parralell build to my HMS Kingfisher build. Dunting task one might say but I could not help my self there are so many inspiring logs around here I had recently started my Corel HMS Victory all those years ago and during some research on the web for that build I came across some pictures of the CC HMS Victory beeing developed. Having realized that it was actually a kit and not a scratch build by someone, I had to have it !!! When I recieved my kit the first thing that struck me was the shere size of the thing. My daughter actually fitted inside the box Now that I have started the build she does not fit the box anymore Erik -
Ive decided to move out of the tin shed and back into the brick outhouse and re work to a better standard:) So it begins...its gonna take time, its gonna take money, so little by little each weekend I'm plugging away. I'm finally going start cleaning and converting my original brick shed I used when I first started making model boats, I moved out when it got too cold and mice and spiders and all those horrible little bugs get in, the models were getting in a mess, I then moved into the 'tin shed' BUT my tools and work area are expanding. I have a complete vision of what I want to achieve but some work needs to be done. The first is too have a clear space to work but still continue to have a workshop (tin shed) to continue building my models. I have 3 shed....2 brick and one tin shed, it's a case of moving things around to achieve a clear space to work. The picture shows the main problem, I need to block up and seal the roof, any heating will just disappear, this is the dreaded asbestos concrete roofing, I have been assured that as long as I don't break or disturb the roof then it will be ok. As you can see I did start filling the joins but need to finish this off..the wood that I put up some years back will come down and I will treat the underside of the roof with Bituminous paint, a sort of seal. Ive never had a leak from this roof in the last 14 years Ive been in this house so I'm confident. I'll then be adding loft insulation and plasterboard's for ceiling to seal the whole thing. That's got to be the first aim..to seal the roof. The next stage in my vision is to render the walls, something ive never done before and I will only be skimming rather than the full 2 or 3 layer render, this will then be painted with masonry white paint. The floor is concrete and needs no work, but there are small gaps that will need filling (render) close to the floor on the walls. Once the whole shed has been 'sealed' the fun bit starts...to build the workbench and plan a perfect 'man's' workshed This has one window that the housing association put in years ago...double glazed..perfect, the door thought will need dealing with. For me this makes sense, the 'tin shed' is ok but as I'm sure most of you have some very expensive tools that need looking after..a brick shed is far better protected than the 'tin shed' please comment on anything I'm doing here..I'm no expert. So that were I started in October 2012....... -
First ever sail ship. I usually stick to aircraft. I have built the Airfix Severn Class Lifeboat and the Airfix 1:350 HMS Illustrious and the Revell titanic 100th anniversary kit. But this is a first for me. I have started sail ships with the Airfix 1:400 Mary Rose which is still a WIP. Down to the topic, I have never built a sail ship before therefore any advice will be very much appreciated. I am not bothered that much about building it, I think the worse bit will be the rigging. And I've had this kit since Christmas and the rigging has been the only put off for me, so how shall I tackle the rigging? I will post progress pics here and on my facebook page. Thankyou for accepting my account. Dedicatedmodeller99 -
What is the proper way to make the side windows for Hms Victory
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