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Found 13 results

  1. Good Evening All This is not the most positive way to start a build log but I guess it was to be expected for a newbie like myself. So I have finally received my HMS Pegasus from Amati. The box is barely open and I already have problems. This would be a great point to recommend a build log or other resource for this build. I have found many but Im struggling on that covers the finer details that a rookie like myself needs. The instructions make no reference to a rabbet or bearding line, I have however come across reference to this in virtually every single build log that I have read on the vessel. My extreme lack of experience has lead me to several questions regarding these two subjects. 1. Rabbet line: - Am I correct in saying that they should be cut from the very bow to the very stern(excluding the vertical portion of the stern as indicated between the red arrows) -Should this line be cut 1.5mm "tall" and 1.25mm "deep" on either side of the false keel? -Do I need to sand the true keel down from 5mm to 2.5mm to match the width of the false keel after being cut down for the rabbet line?(this doesn's seem to make a hue amount of sense but it seems like this is what some people have done on some of the photos that I have seen. 2. Bearding line: - how do I determine where to draw the bearding line? - should the false keel be tapered evenly from the bearding line down to the rabbet line? - the instructions say "the stern area of the false keel to which the rudder post will be glued is to be sanded to roughly half the original width" does this essentially mean that I should sand from the bearding line to the vertical portion of the stern as well as the rabbet line(so that it tapers to the edge of the keel both vertically and horizontally?) Thanks a million in advance!
  2. Dear all I would be very grateful for a bit of advice. I am building a boat that has carvel planking with 42 steam bend ribs each side. Initially during building there are some plywood frames that hold the shape until they are replaced by the ribs. I have installed almost all the ribs and only 2 temp frames remain in place. I was advised as a precaution to have some cross-spalls to avoid hull deformity and I installed a few. However, I noticed today that the sheer plank has deformed and is now a bit wavy. The photos show that in the gaps between the cross spalls and frames, the ribs are pushing the sheer plank outwards. The photos exaggerate the deformity due to lence and distance issues but it is there.It took a few days for this deformity to develop. In the plans, the next step would be to install a stringer low in the bilge and a beam self. However, I still need to do some work in the interior (sanding, floors, mast step etc). Also I need to first remove the remaining two frames which will probably lead to more deformity. 1. What will happen if I remove all frames and braces? Will the sheer plank short it self out with minimal overall deformity or will it massively deform? 2. Should I put even more braces and pul the sheer back into shape and then install the stringer and beam self? But then I will loose all access to interior. Still the beam self should add a lot of rigidity to the sheer. 3. I this what happens with all steam bend ribbed hulls? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as these are uncharted waters for me Regards Vaddoc
  3. I was able to get some photo's of some fishing boats that had been brought up onto the Grid for repairs.
  4. Hi everyone - I am relatively new to ship building and have run into a problem/question. I am building Artesania Latina HMS Bounty Jolly Boat and am confused how to incorporate the Keel. I've attached some pictures of my progress. I have already decided that I will do a second layer of planking and therefore decided to use some putty to fill in some gaps in the planking rather than additional small pieces of wood. As I was sanding down the bow, I decided to test the fit of the keel piece and noticed that the inner curve of the keel does not match the curve of the hull-- at all! Since I already was going to second plank, should i fill this huge gap with putty? should I do something else? I am really confused and would love some guidance. Thanks, Erin
  5. Hi hopefully someone can help. I have just about finished building the Amati Oseberg Viking ship and am not sure what to use to finish it. I was thinking of staining the hull and deck with an light oak stain. Could someone help as I do not want to ruin the finish after taking so long to build it. Thanks Steve
  6. Hello "crew"! Dealing with early colliers/coasters I collidated with the question of the thickness of iron (NOT steel) plates - revited on the formers to form the hull. As I'm building in 1/36 I'm forced to give them the very exact and right dimensions... this is the source of my outlandish question. The surviving coasters (S/S Robin, S/S VIC 32, S/S John Oxley or S/S Sir Walter Scott) are all steel hulled - so these information is not very helpfull to me. About the sailing ship iron hull building is said for the 1860s: "The earliest iron hull plates were very small by today's standards, no more than 6 ft by 2 ft 6 in. by approximately 3/4 to 7/8 in. thick, and with about 18 in. frame spacing." Do you know anything about the newcastle iron plates measurements used for steamers in the first half of the 70th? Here a drawing from mcjazz.f2s.com :
  7. Anyone able to give advice for the best paint for painting the copper sheathing on my Airfix HMS Victory? It's already got a coat of Tamiya paint but I'm not too happy with the colour. Thanks
  8. I just picked up an older Kate Cory kit from Model Shipways. The only thing I see missing so far is the hull templates. I was hoping someone had a set they could share. it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  9. Any thoughts on copper plates vs copper tape on hulls? I'm finding copper plating my HMS Vanguard going very slowly and not especially exciting. While I'm sure everyone would say the plates are more accurate and show better, I'm considering plating one side and taping the other. It will be displayed in such a way only one side can be seen, so that's not an issue. Part of my question is how well the tape conforms to the curves and bends of the hull (without kinking), how well it adheres, and how easy and fast it goes on compared the the tedious work of the individaul plates? Does using a ponce wheel come help (the Vanguard plates are only embossed, not actually engraved)? I realize this is copping out to a large degree, but its not a part of the process I enjoy, I want to make it back to the wood and decks sometime before I get old
  10. I am working on my first boat. A Mamoli Constitution. Does anyone have any advice as to how to position and drill the hole to put the cathead through? I have reviewed all the plans, looked at the photos, and reviewed the angles in Marquardt's "The Anatomy of a 44 Gun Frigate". It just makes me really nervous to drill holes through the hull. I know it has to be done, I just want to make sure I do it correctly to minimize issues. Once I have correctly located the hole, what is the best procedure to actually drill the hole. I have everything from a hand drill to a floor standing drill press. That or I could use the Foredom rotary tool. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks Bill
  11. I need help identifying this ship I have. It was my Great grand fathers from the Boston area. It has been neglected and beat for years, I would love to build it back, but not sure what it is
  12. Hey All, I hope that there is some advice for me out there to salvage this build. Currently I am working on the USS America from the Constructo company. The instructions are fairly vague, probably not made for the amateur. Well now I have glued and nailed the deck plywood to the frames and keel as the directions have shown and I noticed that the last three frames are out of alignment. They are square with the rest of the frames and the keel but for some reason there is a twist in the deck. Any help out there would be greatly appreciated. Nate

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