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Hello all, So this is my first model boat build. I have some experience with traditional woodworking, but this is the first model I am attempting. I wanted to create this log to help other people who are thinking about getting started get an idea of what a first build entails, and what I will be going through. I will be trying things out, figuring out techniques, making mistakes and having to fix them, which I will (embarrassingly) try to post it all here. If any of you experienced builders have some tips on any of the things I have done or will have to do, your advice will be most welcomed. I got the Krick Alert from shipwrightshop.com, it has some vague 2 page instructions in English, but the detailed instructions are in German, so this should also help anyone building this model to identify parts, and sections of the manual. Also, I'm not the most technical or knowledgeable about the different parts of a boat, so please forgive me if I don't use the right terminology. Anyway, I'm pretty excited about this project and very quickly realised it is quite the challenge. Here it goes: This is the kit. I also ordered some files and a small saw with it and it all arrived very promptly. I would certainly recommend the guys at shipwrightshop.com, at least for people in the UK. The first thing I got started with was setting the bulkheads into the keel. Some of them were a bit to tight so I had to file down (very slightly) some of them for them to fit in tightly without having to hammer them in. After dry fitting, I applied some glue and set them in place. To ensure they would sit correctly, I dry fitted the precut deck while they dried. One bit of advice would be to number the bulkheads (A, B, C, etc) before attaching them, which will make it simpler later for the planking. I have seen some people placing supports between the bulkheads but these were so tight, and being held at the top by the deck, I didn't feel there was the need for this. Once the bulkheads where in place, I sanded the top of them to be nice and flush with the top of the keel. I then took some tracing paper and using plan Bogen 2, I traced some lines and some of the things that go on the deck to make positioning them later a bit easier. Then, I and glued the deck in place. To do this I used 1.5cm binder clips which worked great. I could press down the sides of the deck which lay slightly lower than the centre and hold it down by clipping these to the top bit of the bulkheads. Pick bellow. I originally thought to buy smaller binder clips, luckily they didn't have any smaller ones, because these are a great fit and anything smaller would not fit. I then planned the bits of the deck that were sticking out of past the bulkheads. The small D-Planed worked excellent for trimming the most of it and then I did some sanding to get it to the right spot and the deck to sit flush with the bulkheads. To bevel the bulkheads, I used one dummy plank. I bent it around the bulkheads to identify where and how much of a bevel I had to put into each one of the bulkheads. I thought of and tried different ways to do this more precisely but, being such small measurements and tight in between bulkheads, I decided to just do it by eye bit by bit until I would see the plank lay flush against the whole bulkhead. For the bigger angles I used as small D-plane and then a long piece of wood (about 20cm) with some 120grit sand paper around it which would allow me to sand a couple of bulkheads at a time keeping a rough angle of how the plank would sit. I then moved to a small piece of wood (~5cm) with the same sandpaper to do the more detailed and precise work on each bulkhead. With the deck dry and the bevels in the bulkheads, I placed the bow and stern blocks that receive the planks, and then again, using a plank as a guide, I drew the curve on them and the with a stanley knife and sandpaper I shaped these to match the curves between the bulkheads. These are the front ones, parts 15, 16, 17: and these are the rear ones, parts 18: For parts 19 in the rear, finding the piece of wood to use was quite tricky but it is a 1.5x5.160mm piece of very soft wood. The only piece of that type of porous soft wood in the whole kit. I cut parts 19 slightly longer (4 of them because you need to stack 2 on top of each other, on each side), then I wetted the two for the first layer for about 10min, dried them with a cloth and bent them to roughly the right shape. I applied glue and using the binder clips I bent and held in place the first layer. Once dry, I repeated with the second layer. Once the parts were dry, I trimmed them to size and did the same as with the stern blocks (part 18). I used a dummy plank to get the right shape and this time with a flat hand file, I filed the bevel to match the right angle. See Abb. 5 Following the rough English instructions, I started looking into the planking starting at deck level, and oh my... was that a learning curve. I had about a million questions of what to do, how to measure, how to hold the planks, how to determine the bevels of the planks, etc. Some of these questions I still haven't answered, but I will let you know as I progress. Not sure if this is the right way, but here is what I am doing: First using a small bendy wire, I measured the length of each bulkhead from the level of the deck to the very end of the bulkhead. I created a chart, with the bulkheads and their distances, and then divided the longest distance by a full width of the planks. Starting from the front I labeled the bulkheads A, B, C... bulkhead H has the longest distance of 100mm which divided by 5mm, which is the width of the planks, gave me 20 planks. I then divided all of the other distances by 20, which gave me the width of the plank at that bulkhead. I took a plank, marked the position horizontally of each bulkhead and then marked the width at each bulkhead and joined the dots. Here is a pic of the guide plank I used to mark the distance of the bulkheads: The bow and stern block attachments don't have a clear length as they progress downwards, so I just continued the line from the other bulkheads all the way to the bow and stern. I put the marked plank together with another one (to match on the other side) and using the small D-Plane, I planed the planks down to the line. I then modified the binder clips following something I saw on Youtube. (Sorry, I can't remember who's video this was but all the credit goes to you "Hero" as this would have been a nightmare without this tip.) Using the modified clips and clipping the first plank against the deck, I followed the deck line glueing the plank, leaving it 1mm longer in the bow and an the rest hanging out in the stern (as you can see a few pics back). I then sawed the front to match the angle with the keel and it fitted nicely. Here, I made my first big mistake: In the bow, I tried to keep the bevel of the plank flush with the deck, which looked quite nice from above. After it had dried, I realised that this had basically forced the plank away from the bulkheads and when placing the next plank there was a huge offset. Here is a pic of the gap: So, I had to take a blade and from underneath cut along the join of the deck and the plank for the first few bulkheads to release the plank and re-glue it allowing the bevel to shift with regards to the angle of the deck, but keeping the plank nice and flush against the bulkheads. Here is a pic of the plank removed: Here is a pic of the plank sitting nicely against the bevel of the bulkheads after re-glueing: In the stern, there was so much twist, that I had let the plank curve naturally as I laid it flush against the bulkheads so I did not have to correct this. I could see the planking being one of the biggest jobs of the boat and something that requires quite a lot of time each sitting. Therefore, I have started with some of the other parts of the boat that I can progress when I have shorter amounts of time. I will continue with some of this other work I have done, and keep updating how I get on. Happy building. -
Hello friends. As I restarted my life in a new flat as a single in may of this year I restarted my hobby also - but my right eye got so bad during the last few month that I was forced to stop car driving. So I crashed the Ranger and got mad of being unable to built anything intelligent until today. I got a book at ebay and found the old Krick kit of the Alert! And I got mindsick and bought it spontaniously - due to the fact that 1/25 might be an intelligent way to outwit my eye. W'ht'n'heaven hav' I done? I first decided to bash the kit, and had to figure out that it was easier to rebuilt it scratch. Then I got the information to have copied the wrong plan. So I decided to make use of the 1829 30tons one due the rectangular hull lines. Because of this I changed the titel and set in this small statement for you to show the development of the buildingstory. So I'm awaiting the pacel and started looking for some literature and background information: https://www.uscg.mil/history/webcutters/Alert1818.pdf But in there is an intersing group of words: She was constructed of live oak, red cedar, and locust, with four ports per side. Does this text mean square formed ports with lids? ...and is the Alert of 1818 of the 57ft-Class with 75tons (without fractional number XY/95 ? I couldn't belief! ) the wrong prototype? And do I have to buy the AotS Book of Alert 1777? Perhaps you can help - during I'm rummage around in my issiue of Chapelle's book The History of the American Sailing Navy to find further answers... and start reading here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6400-alert-by-riverboat-krick-125th-scale/ Yours, Small Stuff -
Dear friends, am I "on a completly wrong steamer"? My thread is a little bit surrealistic because the kit is standing before my feet. But I have stifle the wish to start to built imediatly, because of a row of unfinished work/unanswered questions.. So I have forced myself to put her in the signature as "shelfware" as we call it in the IT: U.S.C.G. "Ranger" 1852 Corel-Kit No. SM 55 1/64 vel 1/48 L.: mm - 465 W.: 390 mm - H.: 220 mm Name & Authencity questionable The last line is most important for me. These doubts come from these few lines: USRC Ranger (1852) Corel Only Ranger was an early 1800s unarmed LHS schooner Corel's model has the lines of an early 1800s cutter, but the name is wrong Available coming out of the following source: www.coastguardmodeling.com/10_Questionable-Authenticity.html I have consulted these article in here: modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/801-usrc-ranger-by-trippwj-corel-164-scale/ I bought the kit as an 1:50 one with the idea to change it "up" to 1/48 - but now I've to do a much longer step 1/64 to 1/48. I want to use the moulded GK boat kit as a ship's boat for the revenue cutter - so this tww discussions are interwoven to each other. So I think about two ways to scale the cutter: Wayne took the kit as a 1/64 and is going this path with good progress - I could follow his way. Life will be fine! So I'm unhappy because I'd like to go to the bigger scale. But I think I might built these cutter in 1/48 as a smaller one and have to change the ergonomic details as stairs, doors, hatches, stancions, &c. And so I have consulted my Chapelle books and have till now no conclusion if I may be right. So what du YOU think abeut my idea - am I "on a completly wrong steamer" (that's German idiom for thinking in(-to?) a outright wrong direction)? And I also think aboiut the two ways to build them: I prefere the Alert stile - as a realistic used ship - on the othrhand the lines may stand out better to a clear background. What is your answer to this question how to show the attractive lines of the hull.. (Oh - this may be a questions to the girls aboard.) I allready know it's just a wooden kit and definitly not an oviparus fleece-giving and UHT-milk-producing fattening-sow of European Conformity (see bootom picture.) But I'll try to get most of my money. So thanks for reading and your intrest.
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