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Found 20 results

  1. I've just joined up and introduced myself here You've probably seen it all a bunch it times, but here's the frame. I shimmed up the bulkheads with some thin card and they are all in nice a square. I used thick CA for gluing the bulkheads onto the false keel. It does look a little rough, but you won't see it. I glued the deck on with PVA, let it dry overnight and removed the pins. I used the pins in the kit with a nailer. The accuracy with the nailer was a bit hit and miss and I had a couple of goes with some of them. I think I would prefer some map pins or similar - maybe hold/push them in with nose pliers and tap them down... On inspection, I skewed the deck to starboard at the bow and to port at the stern, which was a little disappointing, but I think I can correct this with the deck planking. Off to port by a mm or so at the stern. So far so good (ish). I need to work a bit neater and take more care. Cheers, Stu
  2. Hi Hopefully i've set my title correctly. First time doing a build log of anything online before, hoping it will be itneresting to others and me. I've made a few plastic models of various things over the years but am using my incalculable time sat on my own at home to take up a new hobby, building boats out of wood and string. I started a few weeks ago with an 18th century longboat and was genuinely surprised at how well it turned out, so i've moved onwards and upwards and am now tackling The HM Cutter Lady Nelson by Victory Models. I've seen quite a few logs of this ship by new builders so hopefully it was a good one to chose, the box says 'A perfect introduction' so maybe it won;t scare me off I believe it is customary to show some pictures of the box and the contents It honestly looks like a pile of not very much at the moment and the instructions just say stuff like 'Using the drawings make up the bowsprit, bits and belaying racks' and if i'm honest i don't really know what any of those things are but i plan to follow the order of things from the Longboat and hopefully i'll figure out the other stuff as i go along
  3. I'm going to slowly re-create my build log on Lady Nelson I published on another forum. I've left that forum never to return so I'd like to have an active version of the build log I completed there. The rest of this post and this log is my posting my off-line copy of that build log. I hope perhaps it might help someone new to modeling. For me this simple kit was a reintroduction after and extended absence. I'll throw a few [NOTES] in it as I go, the log was started originally in January 2020. So here goes: ------------------- I started all my ship builds with a purpose; I learned the process with the AVS practicum, developed technique and accuracy with the Granado, painted with exotic woods to achieve color differentiation with the fully framed Fair American, achieved what I could of historical accuracy with Pegasus with plans from the Maritime museum and Antscherl's books, built a “74” with Vanguard. After 8 models I was done, finishing the last in 2017. Ultimately though I missed the building part so I recently purchased the Lady Nelson. It’s a small ship but the process is the same, it’s a nice model to spend time with, without spending a LONG time building it. My detailed build logs for the Fair American, Pegasus, and Granado were lost due to infamous system crash on Model Ship World, though the somewhat abbreviated Vanguard log is still there. Sadly I wasn’t smart enough to keep offline copies then. So, in the hopes of providing some entertainment, help with building models, or demonstrating how not too depending on your viewpoint here’s my log for the Amati Lady Nelson. The kit, despite the small craft, is another well designed Victory model series designed by Chris Watton, although he informs me it was 30 years ago. The material, parts, plans, are all of good quality. I [then] only build from kits by Amati or Caldercraft, I am confident I’ll have a good start when I open the box. [NOTE: I'm since a bigger fan of Vanguard Models and Syren Ship Model company. My current build is the HM Cutter Cheerful, link below.] I’ve reached the point where I’m far more dependent on the plans than instructions. That’s good in this case because the plans are well done and the instructions are surprisingly brief. I’m not sure a beginning modeler would get what they need with them, so then the importance of a website like Model Ship World to seek additional help. Without being overly critical the MDF in my kit is a bit soft and the walnut laser cut part sheets are too brittle, I’ve already broken and repaired a few parts despite being careful in removing them from the sheets. I would still buy the kit, maybe my wasn’t stored in the best place at the store I purchased it from. It doesn’t deter my recommendation for Amati Victory series models. I have a kit and now a job to do, who says retirement is boring.
  4. So the journey begins. I'd been planning on getting into building model ships and what better excuse than the quarantine to start? After some online research, I picked the Amati Lady Nelson. Then I needed tools. I basically had nothing since I had downsized into a small cottage from a 4-bedroom house and had to sell/giveaway most every tool I had accumulated over 30 years. Boy, it wasn't cheap to restock and I included a starter airbrushing kit from Master Airbrush and a spray booth. Was not willing to brush paint all what needed to be painted. Also, it was a scramble to get tools; most of the modeling sites had a lot of out-of-stock for items. Guess a lot of folks are doing the same as me. Then it was looking for help. This site was fairly easy to find and has a lot of good stuff, especially the Build Logs. I also looked for build video logs. Those on Modelers Central were way too expensive. But I did find that Amati released free video build logs of the their Lady Nelson by Models Shipyard. There are 20 of them on Facebook, starting here: https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=Amati Modellismo lady nelson&epa=SEARCH_BOX . The builder takes some different paths from the Amati instructions, such as beveling the bulwarks AFTER adding them to the false keel. After comparing his approach to what I found in the build logs and other tutorials here, I decided to follow his process, supplemented with tips from the MSW logs. The most comprehensive MSW log I found for this ship was by vossiewulf. Wow, he is one master builder! Anybody know why he didn't finish it? Too bad; I would have loved to see the final product. Anyway, as to my build. Below is where I am. One issue I ran into was while beveling the bulwarks: the false deck popped up at the edges, not by much, but it did flatten the deck somewhat. When I first glued the deck, it had a bigger curve to it, port to starboard. I didn't see a problem with that. After it popped up, I decided to leave it. It still had the curve, just not as pronounced. I looked at the the MS logs and he had the same gaps at the edges that I had, so I don't seem too worried. Here's the bow: And the stern: The MS builder used a marker to highlight the filler blocks and the deadwood before beveling to show what had to be taken off. I also had to take some of the deck off here since it overhung the last bulwark. I guessed that was needed based from what I saw from the MS logs. The only issue I had at this point was supporting the gluing of the outside stern counter frames into their slots. With the bulwark beveling, I had removed most of what those frames would stick to. So I glued 2 x pieces of the 1mm plywood sheet underneath the deck between the last two bulwarks. See below. Those frames are not going to move. So I'm off to attach the 3 x keel pieces and then move onto the first planking. Some observations: The MS builder avoided using balsa bulwark filler blocks between the bow and stern bulwarks. When I saw that technique in the MSW logs, I did think that was a bit overkill for this small ship. I figured two sets of hull planking would eliminate having to deal with the thick filler blocks. Surprised vossiewulf went there. Also, he and others had the tools to easily make those blocks; I don't. Comments anybody? The MS builder's plan for tapering the planks involves calculating how much to take off on either end based on mathematical formulae which I found easy to comprehend. When I looked at planking guidelines here, it appeared to involve drawing lines on the bulwark edges or lines, bow to stern, on a fully filler-block loaded hulls and then taking measurements. That seemed a little tedious so I'm planning on following the MS builder's plan. Also, he planes off what needs to go . Some of the MSW log techniques appear to draw a line on the planks and then utilize a craft knife to remove the excess. I'm going with planing the edge off a plank held in a vise. Final painting scheme is still fluid. My current thinking is (comments welcome): Hull: White paint from the bottom to the waterline. (Maybe tinged with a little green or maybe grey.) Walnut paint from the waterline to the main whale (maybe walnut stain) Black paint main wale Walnut paint from top of main wale to the top of the hull, including the upper wale (Again, maybe walnut stain) Black paint for capping rail. (Any reason I shouldn't paint the rails before attaching them? Obliviously need to deal with the pin holes, but not a big deal compared to painting the rails in place.) Deck: Carriage red for the bulwark side planks. Same for hatches and the frames walnut (flipped from what I see on the MSW logs, but the Italian version of MSW showed that and I thought it had a better look.) Red for the gun carriage, flat black for the guns. As for the rigging of these, I see vossiewulf tried but then abandoned to rig with them with 2 x side tackles and 2 x train tackles and went with just 1 x centered train tackle because there was no room on the deck for all that rigging. I will follow his lead on that. Natural for the deck, no paint. The MS builder used, as a deck scraper, a piece of thick glass and that gave it a nice look. I'm trying to find a piece of glass; may break a window! Off I go; wish me luck...John
  5. So finally i made up my mind and publish here my first ship blog of the HM cutter Lady Nelson By Victory/Amati i purchased this kit from cornwallmodelboats.com back in 2016 started to work only around January 2018 for a couple of months then stopped and came back to it a year later, and now i am finally getting closed to the finishing line (almost) so what i've decided to do, is uploading here kind of "retrospective blog" to get more involved in this wonderful forum and just maybe help other members with their kits! So here we go- first photo just the starting point, i won't repeat the unboxing again, but sharing here a few insigths: 1.This kit in my mind is wonderfully desgined by the one and only chris watton, and i truely think for the over all quality it is very well worth the price! 2. However i found it to difficult for the absolut beginner. 3. this kit bigest flaw is probably in the nonexsitent instructions and its rather scetchy drowings. 4. the fittings and second planking are outstanding, but for some of the parts a kind of wood which is rather crumbling and not realy solid is used. 5. i felt as i moved forward that the amont of some of the fittings is very limited i.e second planking, many o the fitting,AMATI please be more generous! 6. no sail plan! , i think a sail plan that could help modelers make sails on their on, could add a lot more to this kit! ok so here is the first photo taken in 1/2018 upon opening: To be continued soon, David i decided finally to add a few more photos that i found, showing the content of the box-or: the "unboxing" David
  6. After completing some plastic model kits, I decided I needed to try a wooden model. Internet research pointed me to the Lady Nelson by Amati and I'm really happy with the quality of materials and clarity of instructions. Much better than the plastic model kits! This was a challenge for me also because I have no real woodworking experience at all, but I'm really loving it so far. I started this several weeks ago and only recently decided to join the forum, so most of the woodworking, finishing, and painting is out of the way, but to catch you up: I mostly followed the Modeler's Shipyard DVD that Amati has put online on their Facebook page. I found it to be a really helpful resource. I feel okay about the fairing job on the hull, but knowing now how planks lie I'm sure I'd take a bit more time and care with my next ship. One of the biggest mistakes I made was tapering the first layer planks from the wrong bulkheads, so there's a little bulge towards the bow. It didn't end up causing too much of a problem after sanding and filling. Not very proud of the first layer of planking, but it was sufficient in providing a solid smooth base for the second layer, which I took much more time and care with. The second layer went on like a dream. I was more careful with the tapering and also set up a rather crude jig to edge bend the planks with steam. I simply soaked the planks for a half hour and then used an electric iron as I bent them around the jig to steam the water out and lock the curve into place. I was a bit sloppy with the first two planks above the garboard plank (shoving splinters instead of spiling properly). I used wood glue/sawdust for filler, but WAY overfilled without removing excess and ended up sanding a layer of hard dried glue off the hull for a whole day. IMG_3090.HEIC I finished the hull with Tung oil, which was satisfying to say the least. IMG_3079.HEICIMG_3086.HEIC Here she is today, with most of the deck furnishings painted or stained and ready to be glued on. The masts and yards (which I had to taper and shape by hand) are finished and painted. What I want to do differently next time: 1. Find better ways to make sure the false deck lies at the proper curve against the bulkheads. I tried pins but they were extremely difficult to get through the deck, and many of them came out while the glue dried. So the deck is less curved than I'd like, and the gunports don't sit at an even distance from the deck. 2. Tapering the planks from the proper location on the first layer of planking 3. Not overdoing the filler that I used between the planks on the second layer of planking (or just making the planks fit tighter), so as not to leave glue on the surface of the hull. I sanded most of it off, but the tung oil revealed some missed spots. 3. I used CA glue with the second layer, which was fast and convenient as I didn't have to do as much shaping of the planks. It was an okay situation, but next time I'll try using wood glue and pins, which will help me get a tighter fit between planks. 4. Break up the deck planking into realistic lengths instead of having them run the full length of the ship. There's a lot more to add to this list, but those are the main issues I've run into so far. That, and just not having money or a car to go out and buy the tools that make things easier! Any constructive criticism or advice moving forward is more than welcome. Thanks for reading!
  7. Seems to be a required rite of passage to publicly flail your way through a first build. For introductions, name is Jay and I'm director of production support for the MAP division at Visa that includes Cybersource and Authorize.net. That means I'm on call 24/7. So, no stress or anything. When it comes to the subject at hand I'm something of a ringer though, as I have extensive experience making small precise stuff in many materials, and I have two entire rooms dedicated to workshop. One is for medium-sized power tools and a small scale machine shop (mini-lathe, mini-mill, etc.), other is primarily a woodworking area for hand tool work (this is where ships will be set up). Well three rooms because the semi-finished "bonus room" has my full-sized table saw and I have plans for a Laguna bandsaw to go in there too. And I've already spent a couple years reading extensively on the ships and the building techniques while working on my game, which also needs to continue to make progress, called Line of Battle. Anyway, I have a crapton of tools and my home is arranged around my workshop areas, so you can assume I am divorced and have no constraints The plan for now, and I already have all the kits, is to go Lady Nelson -> brig Syren -> MS Constitution -> Victory HMS Revenge -> Caldercraft Victory. But I also want to do some very small scale also, we'll see. Since this part is uninteresting, only a couple photos - one of squaring up the transom bulkhead and the assembled frame. In case you're wondering, all my little brass flat sanders that are used with PSA paper were machined perfectly square so I don't need to fiddle with heavy machinist's squares except for outside 90s. In case you're wondering, it's being held in a GRS engraver's block. But anyway all clean and straight and square and ready to go to next steps. Planned next step is balsa filler blocks at bow and stern, and to make things super easy on myself I'm probably going to fill in the first three gaps on both ends, so everywhere significant bending is occurring I'll have a surface to work against. However, need some advice on wood. I bought the Crown Timber boxwood package for this, so I have a bunch of boxwood coming. However, I have my own wood and don't want to do it 100% in boxwood, whatever I don't use will get used later in something else. Right now what I'm thinking of is cocobolo for the keel, wales, and rails, lightly stained boxwood planking, and a holly deck. BTW these 1x1x12 American holly turning blanks are available at Woodcraft for $10, good deal if you can resaw to scale timber. However, I'm not sure about the cocobolo, the color of course is great but it has pretty strong grain and figure and may not look good in this small build. Also I'm not sure about the idea of having a keel/stem darker than the main planking. Anyway, advice appreciated, as I'll have this ready for the keel and planking soon. I know, I'll plank it in snakewood. Cut this into 4mm strips, cut in half (it's 5/16" thick) and then plank both sides with strips in the exact order we see here Just kidding of course. That's a $150 guitar fingerboard blank and will be used for that purpose in the future.
  8. Here goes for my first build log. I actually started the build in May and have ummed and ahhed over starting a log. Finally, I was inspired by Daveward’s Lady Nelson log - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13171-lady-nelson-by-daveward-amativictory-models-164-scale-first-wooden-ship-build/?hl=%20lady%20%20nelson A really helpful resource. I just need to make sure I don’t overtake him so I can continue to follow his lead! I actually went in the shop intending to buy HMS Pickle, but was persuaded that this was a better kit. I have to say, the chap in the shop was probably right – the build quality of this kit is superb. Even to my inexperienced eye, I can see that the parts are precisely cut and fit well. Small items look very ‘clean’. However, the instructions are woefully inadequate. I’d certainly already be in trouble if it wasn’t for the excellent tips I’ve picked up on this forum. Assembling the bulkheads onto the keel was pretty straightforward. I just clamped a square in the right place and held the bulkhead against it whilst a dab of CA glue did its job. By the way, the square was made by my late Father as an apprenticeship piece in the 1940's. He'd be pleased to be making a contribution! I did shape the forward and aft bulkheads a little before gluing in place. I left the rest of the shaping until it was all glued up. I don’t know if it’s conventional, but I cut a thin piece of plastic sheet (about a millimetre thick) to the width of a plank and used this to check the shaping. It’s way more flexible than a plank (probably a bit too flexible) but it was easier to use. I then built balsa filler blocks, using 3mm sheet, into the first two bow sections and the aft section. After shaping, I then these with ‘Model Lite’ filler. I found that filling in between the bulkheads is really helpful in visualising the hull’s lines. I also found that the stern was a complete nightmare! I really struggled to see how the planks were going to run smoothly off the transom (the last bulkhead) and I guess what you’d call the deadwood. Eventually, I decided to fill and sand into a smooth curve. Hope it works. I’ve decided to not cut a rabbet in the keel, but I have thinned down the deadwood at the stern as much as possible. This was easy with a tiny chisel and file. MDF is certainly easy to work with. I’m hoping that this will give a smooth transition between the planking and the stern post. Finally, to date, I’ve glued the deck in place. I pre-drilled pilot holes for pushpins first. In hindsight, I don’t think these held the deck down quite firmly enough. I think I should have dry fitted the deck and then applied a fillet of glue. Still, it looks to be in the right place. I’m now up to date with progress – more to follow.
  9. I started my Lady Nelson in 2012 but I’m a little bit slow. Build Kit logs are really inspiring for me, so after reading lot of topics I decided to post my build log.
  10. Hi, I bought a model 25 years ago, the Baltimore Clipper Sidmouth 1815 by Constructo. Started on the keel, bulkheads and false deck and then got stuck. Having no internet in those days that was the end, but I was good and kept everything in theirs packets. So hopefully have not done to much damage and will be able to finish it later. So I realised that the model was to difficult for me and having read information here decided to start on a easier model, the Lady Nelson which I do like the look of. So I've bought the various tools and model and starting my build log, as I know I'm going to need help. I also had an attempt at building my own keel clamp, which after a couple of modification seems to work. Now time to read the instructions, study the plans and look at few build logs and we're off.....
  11. Hello everyone, This is my modest attempt on the excellent HM Cutter Lady Nelson kit. At this stage, the hull is almost ready. Inspired by some outstanding examples in this forum, I decided to add some nice little details. I do not have much time to send many posts to show all progress. So, the next post will take a while... Enjoy the pictures! Peter
  12. My previous attempt – The Albatros by Constructo – was just that, an attempt. Because of pure ignorance and inexperience, I made many fundamental mistakes not helped by lack of proper tools, and what I now know were less than good instructions and merely adequate materials. But I don’t regret it, it was so instructive, and has encouraged me to go onward and upward rather than be discouraged. Not that my current effort is going to be fault free, far from it I expect, but at least I’m better equipped, mentally and physically. First off the Lady Nelson is a better piece of kit, mind you it should be, it cost upwards of £40.00 more, but the superior quality materials and documentation became immediately obvious as I opened the box. Having said that the ‘Building manual’ has less detail than the one with the Constructo kit, but its better written and additionally has not one, but five 70 x 50cm ‘Assembly Sheets’ which are beautifully produced and so helpful. Well I say helpful, there are actually not one but two errors in the plans, on Sheet One bulkhead part numbers 2 and 3 and the two sets of plank termination patterns, part numbers 16 and 17 are transposed which could lead to disaster, but fortunately the errors are obvious when you present the parts to their supposed locations. Note that much of what I write in this build log is going to appear naive, in-experienced and even wrong. Helpful observations would be appreciated. The Build The hull construction was completed relatively easily. I made two big mistakes which could have had awful consequences; I managed to snap the ‘walnut prow’ (part no. 21) in two pieces extracting it from the laser cut sheet! Gluing the two pieces back together seems to have worked, but it’s bound to affect its tensile strength. Secondly I completely forgot to glue the last and smallest bulkhead (part no. 10) in place before I glued the false deck in place. Thankfully I was able to tap it into place after. Ensuring the bulkheads are correctly aligned which is vital of course, is actually made much easier by dry fitting the false deck in position as the bulkheads ‘set’. In this way the deck acts as a jig. The (infamous) walnut prow, keel and rudder post were then fitted and left to dry before the false deck was finally glued in position – temporarily held in place with pins until dry. The fiddly stern counter frames were glued in place, each set allowed to dry before the next was fitted (not shown in the photos). There remains the two bulwark strips to fit (they are currently soaking in warm water to facilitate easier bending), then after a thorough sanding is done and I can say the hull construction is complete. I am under no illusion; this was the easy bit. The planking of the hull now follows, and I am approaching it with trepidation as I consider this the trickiest part of the build, which can make or break the whole endeavour!
  13. Now that I am largely retired, I have the time and inclination to get back to my long-neglected in-progress models. I am working on the Victory Models' Lady Nelson. I am nearly done fairing the hull but have encounterd a problem I could use some advice on. The LN is double-planked and the kit includes 1 mm X 4 mm limewood strips for the first layer and 1 mm X 4 mm walnut strips for the second. I am at the point in the fairing for drawing a bearding line at the stern and tapering the false keel to create a rebate (correct term?) for the plank ends to rest in. The problem is that the false keel and the sternpost are both 3 mm thick, but the thickness of two layers of planking is 2 mm on each side. Obviously, 2 mm of rebate on both sides is not possible. The sketch shown below illustrates the problem. I'm a bit stymied on what to do. I do intend to replace the kit's 2nd plank walnut strips with boxwood which I wll cut myself. One possible solution would be to replace both the limewood and walnut with thinner strips, say 0.5 mm. That would allow me to carve a proper rebate and still leave 1 mm of thickness in the false keep (and have the added benefit of making the strips easier to bend). My concern with this is, would losing 1 mm of planking thickness on each side of the hull degrade the accuracy of the hull shape? (Assuming the kit was designed with such accuracy.) Has anyone else encountered this problem? Suggested solutions for addressing it would be most welcome.
  14. This log will document my progress as I build the Amati/Victory Models Lady Nelson. I've always wanted to build a wooden ship model, but I've never had the time. Now that I'm finally out of school, it's time to get started! I've done a good amount of research before starting this build, but I'm sure I'll have some questions for the experienced and knowledgeable members of this forum as I make my way through the build. Thank you in advance for your help! I'm going to do my best to take as many closeup photos of the process as I can. Perhaps they will be helpful to other modelers in the future! So, let's get started! After taking a look through the kit and getting acquainted with the instructions (which are basic), I sat down at my workspace with the sheet containing the bulkheads: First, I numbered all of the bulkheads, based on the plans. Then, I cut them out using my X-Acto. The cutting left some rough remnants of the tabs that held the pieces into their sheets: So, I sanded these smooth with my sanding stick: The final bulkhead/transom sits at an angle in the center keel: This piece had to be beveled to match the angle of the center keel: Here it is, sitting flush with the center keel: Next came the fairing of the fore and aft bulkheads. I did this before I glued anything in place, as it made the process easier. I fit the bulkheads in the center keel and bent a plank around them to get a feel for the required curvature, then filed by hand: Here is the second bulkhead fitted in the center keel, with its bevel on the forward edge: Here is the foremost bulkhead, with its extreme bevel: I test fit each bulkhead, marking each with the letters "F" and "A" to represent the fore side and aft sides, respectively:
  15. After much deliberation I have decided to try and do a build log for my Lady Nelson. It took a while to summon up the courage for fear of having my hard work torn apart but I decided that it may help others that are new to ship building like myself and also I may be able to get much needed advice in order to get through my first build. So here we go (I may live to regret this) Firstly a quick thank you to Ray and Pnevrin and a few others whose logs helped me to get started. Its a shame that some of these have now disappeared but good to see Ray re-posted his. I think the new site is fantastic by the way so its not all bad news. Kit arrived just after Christmas 2012, I was astounded by the quality of the parts and also scared stiff by some of the smaller parts, the first steps in to the world of Ship Modelling is a daunting path indeed. So I set about making up the Bulkheads and found they were a pretty good fit, only a little filing and packing to get them straight was needed. I did not add Rabbet / Bearding line as, although I understood the concept it did not make sense to me until I actually started planking. I will definately do this on my next build though as I can see what a huge difference it will make. I did file down the keel a little but being a nervous newbie I probably could have been a little more ruthless
  16. Another model, the last one, but probably will be the first to be finished. The model is based on the Cris Watton's (Victory models) drawings. I reduced the drawings, and .. I was convinced that the right scale is the one indicated on the model (1:64) but I was convinced that was 1:54 so instead the planed 1:100 i realized 1:119 I started in the usual mode, copied and reduced the drawings of the structure, glued it on tin plywood (aero 0,6 mm) cut it with scissors and with normal cutter, glued on another sheet of same plywood and cut again. The keel is made from 0,8 mm ply, double layers. For the first planking decided to substitute the classic wooden strips with blocks of balsa, and made some arrangement inside of the hull, so I slightly modified the structure creating the open spaces. In this way maybe I will leave open the hatch with the ladder and the litle portion of interior will be visible. (maybe) One little appoint, as this is in fact a generic cutter, not the real one, decided to change the name , I found few similar cutters on lists of Admiralty and probably I will make some small modifications on the deck arrangement, on base of other cutters. Ok, with balsa created the filling, after sanding added a strip of tin balsa for fine adjustement of hull sharpes.
  17. Hello, This is my first wooden ship model and my first build log, so wish me luck. I hope I will be able to finish it and move on to bigger and better things! For my first build I decided to go with Lady Nelson kit from Victory Models. I purchased the kit and it arrived few weeks ago from Cornwall Model Boats. It is a New edition kit with some extra PE parts and few other things. For the new guys - I purchased some of the tools from MicroMark, Age of Sail and Model Expo websites. Just google those places if you need anything. I had to wait a few weeks to gather all the tools I felt that I needed for this build, so finally today I was able to start the model! First order of business was to study the plans carefully and watch first part of Bob Hunt DVD about building Lady Nelson. I decided to buy the DVD since I had no previous experience building any wooden models and so far it proved to be helpful. So far it all seem to be pretty straight forward and here is a few pics of my progress. Bulkheads have been glued in place. The fitment has been very good with no problems at all. False deck has been attached. I put some rubber bands to help the glue to set in. Prow, keel, and rudder post have been glued into place and I used some plastic clamps to make sure it was attached correctly to the main keel part. I attached 2 sets of stern couter frames here and now I am ready to work on the bulkheads to prepare them for first planking. The bulkheads must be sanded and beveled to give maximum area of contact when attaching the planks. Thanks!
  18. PLEASE NOTE ORIGINAL BUILD WAS FROM JAN 2009 & COMPLETED IN JAN 2010 Lady Nelson Build Log Hi all this will be my first model ship build for over 20 years so I am a sort of beginner, I decided to build a model as I find its to cold to go carp fishing in the winter and can only play golf weather and arthritis permitting, so I sold a few watercolours of Thames Sailing Barges (another hobby) on Embay to pay for the project, the Lady Nelson looked to be just the model to build. I sent off for the kit plus some tools a plank bender, plastic vice, pin pusher, pin vice and some quick set PVA back in the old days I used cascamite a powder glue you mixed with water from watery thin to porridge thick, no super glue in them days how things have moved on, plus a roto electric multi tool. While waiting for these to come I set up the workstation, the end of the lounge table, (I also paint there my wife thinks its more sociable), a sheet of mdf and a cutting mat. Then read all the build logs and tutorials. The kit arrived 25th Jan and the contents checked all seemed to be good quality, another read of the tutorial. I cut out the frames/bulkheads and dry fitted to the keel, found they were a sloppy fit so packed the out with card, glued the frames to the keel making sure they were square, and the same height at both sides, plus the outside length the same from the centre line on the keel. Fist problem the second frame from the bow had the deck level higher one side hard to measure just looked wrong I find if it looks right it usually is. That’s it for now I will add some pics

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