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Found 8 results

  1. Much has already been written on the subject of the Mutiny on the Bounty, the events & causes leading up to it, the fallout after the fact, and the perilous journey thrust upon Capt Bligh and the loyalists cast adrift. Whilst working on a build of the HMS Bounty Launch recently, one of the questions which arose was what additional items could a builder put into their Launch to add a little touch of historical authenticity. As such, the following has been produced from a dissertation of William Bligh's meticulously kept logs. This is not intended to be a historical study or scholarly review to be added to the already impressive collection of writings on the Mutiny event. My main purpose is to allow modellers of HMS Bounty and/or the Bounty Launch to have a quick reference point whereby they can see what was taken on-board at the outset, and what was collected, found or traded along the way. In this way, I would hope you can select and model any additional equipment for your Launch build. Resources used for this compilation were: "The Bounty Mutiny" - William Bligh and Edward Christian (brother of Fletcher) "A Narrative of the Mutiny, On Board HMS Bounty" - William Bligh "In Bligh's Hand" - Jennifer Gall (Any errors or omissions of fact are mine entirely.) Mutiny Spreadsheet.xml
  2. Floss/Skipjack Part 1 History Floss was one of a pair of Launches that were built in 1909 by Herbert Minett and was powered by a single cylinder Ferro engine, her sister named Skipjack pictured here had a two cylinder Buffalo engine. These launches were built for Andrew Mellon the Pittsburgh Millionaire. Model I am still tracking down information about Floss, and I have a few leads. I am going to build this model the same way as the full size boats of this type were often built. Moulds were suspended from the ceiling in some cases and others were built upside down. The Stem Keel and Stern timbers were set up and the moulds positioned. In either case to build a model using either of these methods I will need to support the moulds and backbone to fix ribbands for setting the bent frames before planking. After the ribbands are fixed to the Stem, moulds and stern the bent frames will be fitted to the keel and then temporarily attached to the ribbands with pins. Once all the frames are set the sheer clamps and bilge stringers and floors will be added. After the basic shell is assembled then the planking will commence. In order to accomplish all this I needed to build a building board with some specific features. Using odds and ends of materials I had laying around the shop I came up with an acceptable solution. The base is 36inches by 10inches by 1 7/32 inches thick it was cut from and old office desk top. The white square tubes are 3/4 inch railing bars left over from a project a couple of years ago. The blue anodized aluminum tubes are also 3/4 inch diameter left over from another project. The white plastic components were machined from some offcuts picked up at a commercial plastic supplier. The aluminum rails are a low cost bar clamp that was cut in half and the clamp mechanisms removed. The dome nuts are 5/16 and are threaded onto a length of 5/16 ready rod that causes the clamps to lock on the rails. The cross rails are a sections of some 3/4 inch U channel that was slit down the middle in the table saw. The cross rails are clamped with some cherry blocks and 4x40 allen head cap screws. These lines are still being reviewed and updated as I get new information, When I am satisfied that they are as good as I can get then the build will actually start. Floss lines.pdf Until then I am getting on with some tests regarding bent frames and testing my ideas about the construction method, and finishing the elements of the building board. Because of scale and look at the large scale of 1:8 the frames will need to be made of something different than oak it is just too coarse. these frames are 1 1/4 scale inches square Fir the wood was boiled for 15 minutes in water. The actual frames will likely be somewhere around 1 1/4 by 3/4 with the inside edges rounded off before bending. I am also testing without heating and just soaking overnight. This will probably be a while in the making and I am in no rush I have lots of work doing the testing and research. it is a great diversion and a break from the intense work on the Pilot Cutter. Plus I needed something to fill in my spare time;>) Michael
  3. It has long baffled me How many of the great modelers make such superb work boats That service the sailing ships of old. I had made many attempts but always felt that the finial product fell short of the Main ship model. One day i came across A post that suggested that these magnificent miniature boats were made using a mold. I looked everywhere to find a paper or video to help me try but never found a complete process. So i decided to try to develop the process and recorded my work on video. The first one did not pop out of the mold but the second one did. The finial product was great if i may say so myself. Attached are the tree videos on the project. Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
  4. Evidently this particular "boat" topic has never been brought up in this forum. Late in the 1800s when builders were toying around with more compact and energetic sources of energy for propulsion, they developed the naphtha engine, which used volatile fuels produced by the distillation of petroleum to either heat water to steam or, eventually, to produce propulsion by internal combustion. It was the precursor to gasoline engines. Between the 1890s and around 1905, small- to medium-sized vessels called naphtha launches were very popular with the boating public, and thousands were built by companies such as the Gas Engine and Power Company for recreational and commercial use. Now to my question: The brigantine Galilee, in which my grandfather sailed, was conducting magnetic surveys of the Pacific Ocean between 1905 and 1908. Because the vessel was not entirely nonmagnetic due to the hundreds of iron fasteners in her hull and some steel and iron rigging components that couldn't be removed, she produced a small by measurable magnetic characteristic that had to be accounted for in the sensitive measurements and calculations of the earth's magnetic field. This was accomplished by measuring the earth's field elements on various courses at sea, and turning the ship in harbors at the ports she visited. The former was done using wind, sails, and rudder. But the latter was very difficult without outside assistance, and very time consuming. To deal with this problem, on her second and third cruises, she was equipped with her very own—naphtha (or more probably, gasoline) launch—carried in beefed up davits off her stern. Sadly, I don't have very many photos of the launch to finalize my reconstruction of the plans for the ship. Courtesy Department of Terrestrial Magnetism, Carnegie Institution, Washington, DC This is an approximation of what I can see: According to various sources, the boat is described as a plumb-bow fantail launch. My best approximation of its length is about 20–22 feet long. Its depth is about 4 to 5 feet. I have no idea of the beam, since there are no views of this detail. I don't even know if there is a transom or if the stern is elliptical or canoe-shaped, like many of the available plans of this type of vessel show. If anyone knows of sources that show either this particular type of launch or one similar to it, I'd appreciate direction to them. I've already checked out most of the diagrams available on the web, but if there is one that looks close to this boat, and in particular shows the plan and body views, those would be of great help. Terry
  5. I decided it was time to try and belie my handle, and - for my second from-scratch model - build something whose beauty resides in its woodwork as well as its lines. I.e. the finish has to be perfect. Some history of the Riva Aquarama: "I’ve decided that the most jaw-dropping, eye-watering, hand-biting man-made spectacle of all time is the 1965 Riva Aquarama speedboat.. Oh, and it’ll do 50 mph." Jeremy Clarkson. I Know You Got Soul. "The Riva Aquarama was a luxury wooden runabout built by Italian yacht builder Riva. Production of it ... ran from 1962 until 1996. The hull was based on the Riva Tritone, an earlier model speedboat by Riva, which in turn was inspired by the American mahogany Chris-Craft runabouts. The boat's speed, beauty, and craftsmanship earned it praise as the Ferrari of the boat world. The Aquarama has become over the decades a nautical legend. The Riva Aquarama's 8.02 - 8.78 metre[ hull was sheathed in mahogany and varnished to accentuate the beauty of its natural wood grain. All versions were twin engined, with top speeds of 45/50 knots depending on engine choice. Power varied from 185 hp to 400 hp per engine delivered by Riva 'tuned' Cadillac and Chysler models, among others. On top of the engine compartment was a cushioned sundeck. The boats also carried a convertible roof which retracted behind the rear seat and cockpit. A swim ladder was often mounted in the stern." Wikipedia Riva Aquarama Owners have included Stewart Granger, John Barry, Rex Harrison, Peter Sellers, Brigitte Bardot, Karl Heineken, Sophia Loren, Joan Collins, President Nasser, Victor Borge, King Hussein, Ferrucio Lamborghini, Prince Rainier, Roger Vadim and Richard Burton. There are plenty still on the second-hand market. This is the most expensive one I've found: I've finally let the moths out of my wallet and purchased a small scroll saw (Dremel). The plans I have call for a build about 70 cm long. I had to reduce the originals by about 20% so that the rib spacing (3 ribs) could be spanned by a single popsicle stick. But a consequence of the largish scale is that a single stick wouldn't span the width of most ribs. So rather than making plywood out of multiple sticks and cutting them to shape (as for my previous build) I had to build the ribs rather in the shape of the plans. The largest rib has 23 individually cut pieces. Making them would have been impossible without the scroll saw.
  6. Back before anyone knew what a bucket list was, one of the boats on my bucket list was an Edwardian_launch Since I had not been able to find drawings of a launch I liked, I decided to design my own. So out came the books and a few hours (days) later I have what I think will be a nice hull. The cabin and seating will come later. As I was cutting out the bulkheads for the hull I happened to notice the 1:200 scale bulkheads for the Pequot that I had just finished. They were what I started with before I changed to 1:100 scale. As it turns out they are very similar to the 1:48 scale launch parts I had just cut. My design has a clipper bow and the Pequot has a blunt bow but . . . So I’ve decided to build two at the same time. Something I’ve ever done before. I expect to have fun finishing the design on both as I build. As Popeye says “it’s in my head” . Bob
  7. I recently retired, and having no current hobby apart from reading, decided that I'd take up model-making. My first attempt was a plastic kit set sailing ship (U.S.S. Constitution - Revell 1:146). I wanted a sailing ship so I could take a lot of time rigging it. The model has three suggestions for rigging; easy (just the moulded shrouds/ratlines), medium ( a few ropes) and hard (fully rigged). It was the first model I'd made in 50 years and I made plenty of mistakes. But - from a distance, with the light behind her - she doesn't look too bad. But as a retired person I have limited money, limited workshop room and tools, and unlimited time. Complex plastic models are expensive so I decided to build a wooden model from scratch. I found the plans of the motor launch Antares on the net. It is an attractive vessel and I thought it would do as a beginner's project. The plans assume it is motorised and radio-controlled, but my interest is in the making, not the playing with. So I would omit these. Just to make life really interesting I decided to build the entire thing out of popsicle sticks. In the absence of the expensive tools that grace the workbenches of some of the model-making community, having pre-machined wood would simplify some aspects of construction (and complicate others). Besides, I wanted to show off a real planking deck. But the real purpose was to require serious thinking in changing the design to suit the materials. Anything to stave off senility! (For people interested in a proper build project of the Antares by a newbie see http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2008415 It has some excellent photographs and useful discussions.) However, although I have always loved working with my hands, I am a real butcher - thus the handle. So a model made of recalcitrant fiddly bits is going to be a real challenge. I read the caveats for newbies, and have progressed the model somewhat before I took the plunge to start this blog. Because the model would not be motorised I could build solid bulkheads for much of the hull, rather than the frames in the plans. But to get a solid bulkhead from small pieces requires constructing plywood. The bulkheads were straightforward to assemble, but the first constraint became immediately obvious when it came to making the keel. The plan has a nicely curved stem. I had to have a very straight stem because the sticks were not wide enough to give a curve. (I subsequently concluded that I could have taken more trouble and built a curved stem, but that was hindsight). This decision would give me trouble with the chine line later. I glued the two layers of (large) popsicle sticks together using a multi-purpose glue, one layer on one direction and one in the other to give them strength. I cut the bulkheads roughly to shape using a child's coping saw - it was the blade with the smallest set and smallest teeth I could find. The sticks appear to be made out of pine (pinus radiata) and I soon found that where I hadn't glued with a full coat there was a tendency for the wood to splinter. I wound up doing some after-the-fact gluing, and inserting replacement pieces where chunks had fallen out. I did final bulkhead shaping with an orbital sander. The keel is made of three layers; two on the outside being normal-width sticks and the middle being the wider and longer sticks. The purpose of this was to give slots in the base of the bulkheads somewhere to attach to (i.e. to the middle layer of the keel). I built a multi-purpose jig out of a piece of wood with numerous nail-holes, laid the keel and attached the bulkheads with their slots cut to it. It was immediately obvious that the #1 bulkhead would have to be omitted as the straight stem wouldn't accommodate it. The jig wasn't totally successful for this; not all the bulkheads turned out to be held square to the keel! Once I'd glued all the bulkheads in place it became obvious that not all the slots I'd cut in the bulkheads were the full depth required! I.e. the tops didn't all align (and neither did all the sides, but that would be bad shaping) and some bulkheads didn't sit hard on top of the keel - this would give problems with mounting the garboards etc later. Time to use the trusty orbital sander for corrections; at least to the top and sides. Corrections to allow even hull planking would have to wait.
  8. Hello all, I will repost here the build log of the 34ft Victory's launch I build a while ago, as I had some requests and maybe other people will find them interesting. I have about 200 pictures and here they are... Alexandru
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