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Found 10 results

  1. I decided on this kit for my next build because it will, if finished in time, become a Christmas gift for my daughter and son-in-law, both of whom enjoy eating lobster and vacationing in Maine. I'll probably put granddaughter's name on the finished model. I decided to do a build log because as far as I can find out this kit has never had one. Bluejacket sells 3 different lobster boat kits; this one which is 12’’ long, a 23” POB/POF kit, and a 3 ft honker with a fiberglass hull intended for RC. I went with this size because it will fit neatly on a bookshelf. The Red Baron is famous in lobstering circles, she won a lobster boat race a few years back, clocking in at a record 57 knots! I’ll show what’s in the box but if you are interested you can go to BlueJacket’s homepage and click on the “What’s in the box” tab where a video of this kit is shown, along with some shots of the completed model. Plans - one sheet of plans showing side and overhead views and the layout of the laser-cut wood pieces Instruction book - Bluejacket rates this kit as appropriate for beginners so the instructions are more detailed than what I am used to from their more advanced kits. The instructions tell you what to do, how to do it and provide warnings where needed to help prevent mistakes. There are also a lot of photos and drawings. Pre-carved hull: The hull already has its basic shape and the cockpit area is carved out so this should only take a little sanding to bring it into its final shape and then to smooth it up for painting Laser cut wood: Most of the wood provided in the kit is laser cut, including several templates that will be used to check the final shape of the hull near the bow and the curve of the stem. Metal fittings: A bag of brass and britannia metal fittings is provided, giving this kit more detail than I expected. Tools and supplies: The kit comes with basic tools like a hobby knife, sand paper, a pin vise with 2 drill bits, tweezers, a wooden ruler, and paintbrushes. Medium CA glue, debonder and all required paints are included. There is also a bag of white powder which I could not figure out until I read the directions - it’s wood filler that can be mixed with water. Lobster traps: Material and instructions to build 3 lobster traps are included.
  2. Hello All, I am a first time modeler and am going to start the BlueJacket Lobsterboat. I am in the process of gathering all supplies that I need but just wanted to get this thread started and say hi.
  3. We are upgrading our lobster trap kits that go in our r/c lobster boat, Maine lobster boat, and Red Baron. The old kit design had laser cut hoops and stick wood construction.
  4. Another Laughing Whale vintage kit. Found this one, of all places, on Etsy. I seem to have become addicted to rescuing these forgotten kits. This one has found it’s way back to Maine from Florida… 😩 Sold in the 80’s it’s now going to be built. Blue prints a bit yellowed but have survived well. Two pages of typewriter written, hand drawings. These kit were produced here in Maine. Just up the road here in Wiscasset, Maine. Nice materials in the original packaging. Framing parts have been hand cut. Scribed Decking and Sail Cloth also provided. Paper templates provided for the sheet planking and deck materials. All in all a nice little package. Time to get this one started. Cheers 🍻
  5. I said to my self, Don’t start another build until you finish the one you are working on. I just had to get it out of the box and put it on the bench. Just finished my Charles W Morgan Whaler and am still finishing up my New Bedford Whaleboat. But, I just had to stage my next build, The Maine Lobster Boat. It’s a 1979 Laughing Whale kit out of Wiscasset, Maine. Rescued this beauty on eBay. OK, I couldn’t leave it in the box. Had to lay it out... Maybe 🤔 I’ll just take a look at the instructions. Step one: assemble the Pre-cut pieces K-1, K-2, K-3 and stem into a Keel. 🧐 The pieces aren’t marked, this is like finding jigsaw pieces. 😆 (old school) Hand cut pieces require some sanding to allow effective glue joints. I chose CA Glue. Ok this is interesting, can’t stop now. Keel assembled, Step 1 completed. Step 2: Glueing the deck halves together. An hour in and I am reminding myself not to get started, I have a Whaleboat to finish. 😆 Too much fun... I’ll be back. 😎
  6. This is my first wooden "ship" model. I've been interested in them for some time. This seemed like a good entry point as it has planking and some wooden block shaping for the bow. It doesn't have masts and rigging. Blue Jacket rates thus as an intermediate model. The box contains laser cut parts, blocks for the bow, pewter fittings, flexible window/windshield material, some line and round brass stock. The small box is the optional paint kit.
  7. This is my first build! I've always been enamored with fishing boats, tugboats and merchant ships. I chose this particular kit, as it comes complete with all the materials required to complete the model, including tools and paint. It is also designated as an entry-level model. There is a completed build log of this kit by schooner. As He covered the contents of the kit thoroughly (complete with photos), I will abstain from repeating that here. (I hope that is within the rules, if not, let me know and I will edit this post). I've been looking over the plans, reading the instruction manual and reading schooner's build log. Although a bit nervous, I believe I am ready to begin. All comments and suggestions are most welcome. Paul
  8. BlueJacket Shipcrafters seems to be under-represented in build logs on MSW, despite their reputation as a quality American model company that’s been in business a very long time. I recently completed their Lobster Boat kit and thought I’d write up a quick review, as there aren’t any build logs for this kit on MSW (I didn’t do a log myself as I wanted a break from documenting model work and intended this to be a relatively quick, relaxing build). Overall, I enjoyed building this kit, though there were a few things future builders might consider. Above is my finished model, built and named for my mother, who has long loved Maine, especially the Schoodic Peninsula. The number boards commemorate this year's birthday, when she'll receive this model. It's finished in the same green and white color as my current house. Positives: Good-quality materials. All the wood was solid and easy to work with, and the castings were clean and straightforward. Clear and accurate plans. These matched the kit’s parts and were helpful as a reference. I could have used them to scratchbuild this without the instructions or materials. Not too complicated. The kit might be tough for a complete beginner as it assumes a bit of knowledge, but almost anyone could figure these bits out and it’s pretty straightforward overall. It doesn’t have a lot of detail, which I think is good as it keeps the cost down and lets you choose whether you want to invest the time and money into creating a more detailed custom version. Concerns: The written instruction booklet is less than ideal. The black-and-white photos are very grainy and make it difficult to see any useful detail. For example, I was essentially unable to determine the planking pattern used because the photo was so blurry. Also, the text is presented in a long, linear block that could really use better organization and editing. Photos and drawings are often placed nowhere near their relevant text, resulting in lots of flipping back and forth trying to make sense of a given step. There is some "curse of knowledge" in places, where the instructions refer to a given part without defining what that is in real life or providing a clear diagram or label for the model. Bow design. The kit’s default is to use a large carved block at the bow, rather than planking all the way to the stem. With no experience, I had a very hard time carving and shaping this properly and finally gave up and reverted to planking the whole hull, something I have more experience in. That may just be my own problem, but it’s something a beginner should consider. Also, the added material needed to plank the whole hull (rather than just up to the bow block) meant that I exhausted the kit material and had to use a few pieces of my own scrap to complete the work. Beware of this potential if you decide to fully plank the hull rather than carving the bow. A few oddities in the proper fit and size of pieces. For example, several of the hull frames really didn’t line up with the others, requiring me to add a 1/8” strip along the frame to match the flow of the planking or to carve/sand away material. Some of the cabin pieces also needed significant sanding or additions to form up properly. None of this was particularly difficult, but did mean that builders should be careful to check everything before gluing. For example, see the following two photos: In the photo above, note that the run of lower planking really bows upward at the third frame from the stern. I somehow missed this when checking my fairing and planking run. It isn't really noticeable on the finished model because both the paint and position hide it from clear view, but this clearly needed extra material added to the frame. In the photo above, you can see the thickness of extra material I needed to add to both sides of the second frame from the bow to match the natural flow of the planks. It's more obvious on the right side due to the shadow effect, but it's the same for both. The fourth frame from the bow has similar material attached to widen it, while other frames needed to be sanded down by a similar margin. Getting a smooth run of planking was more work than I expected, though not particularly difficult. Here are two more photos of the completed model from various perspectives: Overall, I certainly recommend this model as a fun build. True beginners should be cautious and would benefit from carefully thinking through every step, test-fitting everything, and doing some research on the side to understand certain aspects of kit-building that are taken for granted by the instructions. Although I mildly criticize the instructions and a few parts above, they were still far better than those of the Corel Ranger that I built before this. Overall, the concerns were minor and easily dealt with by common sense and careful work, and the result is a quite attractive model (in my humble opinion). It has a lot of potential for adding extra detail if you really want a realistic appearance; for my mother, I was happy with a representative model that captures the feel of these iconic American work boats without much fuss. This was my first BlueJacket kit and I would definitely purchase another.
  9. The plans for building this boat are in two issues of "Scale Wood-Craft", Spring and Summer 1986.(1a) Bottle and preparation I chose a bottle that is rectangular because I wanted a flat bottom and not much height. I am not going to add a putty "sea" for this ship. The bottle is 750ml, with "Holland Liquor Bottle" on the end. The bottle is 1 1/4" high and end to end 9" long. The opening is 7/8". The one in the plan is ¾". I cut the threaded part of the bottle at the end off because it's ugly and without the threads it looks like an old bottle. In some cases cutting it off also increases the opening ID. I used a diamond cut off wheel, 7/8" dia. I found a picture on line of a boat in a harbor at Cape Porpoise, Maine (7) that is just north of Kennebunkport. I then adjusted the size to fit part of it in the bottle for a background and sea. A Turks Head knot was added to the neck. Hull The ship is 5" long. I used a piece of white oak for the hull. The hull is spilt in order to fit it through the neck of the bottle. I cut the hull to size and once I had the two halves roughly shaped (1c) I drilled holes on one side for the dowels to hold the halves together. I drilled 3 holes but used two because it was too tight with three. The holes for the second half were found by painting the holes on the drilled side and mating the halves together to find the location for the other side (3). Once I shaped the hull (2) I added a rear rub rail and painted it white (4). I started cutting out the walls of the rear open cabin area but didn't like the way it came out so I added a bass wood strip to cover it. I then cut the deck piece for the bottom and painted the edge blue for the water line (6). I included a picture of the 30" Midwest model of the Boothbay Lobster boat (1b). I wanted to match the color scheme from this model. I covered the deck with mahogany veneer strips (5) that I had left over from a solid hull model of the Bluenose. I added the veneer so that the veneer hides the split line. You will notice that I added the rub rail along the sheer line. This is clear wood veneer, also left over from the Bluenose build. Using square 1/32 stock I outlined the inside edge of the veneer (called the coaming I believe). If I were to do this over again I would lower the height of the stock. {C} With the hull complete, I placed it in the bottle for location (10 & 11). Now that the ship is located I will piece together the bottom sea buy taking pieces of the blue sea in the photo (8). I will paint a reflection of the lobster boat in the water on the new piece that I will add (9). I added mahogany veneer to the lower deck, clear veneer strips on the hull where the traps are lifted, and varnished all wood surfaces.{C} Cabin The 3 lower cabin pieces are cut to size, portholes drilled and glued together as one piece (12). The plans have each piece going through the bottle separately but he used a 3/4" dia. bottle and mine is 7/8". I test fit the assembly through the bottle neck. The rear part of the cabin bends a bit because of the tight fit. The aft bulkhead for the cabin will go in after the 3 cabin pieces. The 3 upper window pieces I did the same thing. After painting I added acetate windows to the inside of the windows. The top roof piece is too wide for the bottles so I split it on the starboard edge, gluing a piece of paper to the back for a hinge (13) Sail: I plan to add a "sail" to the back of the boat. I saw this on bigger models. It's used to prevent rolling and steadies the boat when it's sitting into the wind. Working from a picture I made a sail using fine cloth and wood dowels (14). I found a plastic tube piece that the dowel mast fit into and glued it to the corner of the aft port side of the lower deck. I had to make sure that the total height included the tube and floor so it would go in the bottle. A wire loop was added to the aft deck for the line. Other parts (14 - 17) I made the engine cover from balsa with a hole to accept the wood dowel exhaust stack. An oversized hole was added to the roof for the stack. The antenna is wire with a hollow tube at the bottom end. A hole was drilled in the roof. The light on the roof was a buoy with the tip filed off. I added veneer to the edges of the two roofs. The railings were made from mahogany strips. In retrospect I made the railing too thick and high. I added a veneer hatch to the top roof. The lobster tank was made out of paper. The gear for lifting the pots was wire. The chocks (?) on the forward deck were wire bent to shape and filed flat on the bottom. Lobster traps and lobsters are etched brass sheets I bought. They are H.O. scale. It also came with the cast buoys. Because this is a square instead of round diameter bottle, I had to keep in mind that the antenna and mast must fit with less headroom. Also the engine exhaust stack since it goes in through a hole in the roof. When I went to put the exhaust in it almost didn't go. I had to round the end of the stack to get it in. Assembly in the bottle First I put in the two hull halves with glue on one side. Using two rods, I squeeze the two halves together in the bottle. I then added glue to the bottom of the bottle and put the hull in place. The lower cabin is next, then the cabin rear bulkhead. Then the upper window assembly was added. I use a long pair of tweezers to place the parts in place. Next is the hinged cabin roof with the rails, light, and buoy attached. Then the antenna was added. Next is the engine box against the rear cabin bulkhead. I put the trap raising "hook" (called a gallows and snatch block) in and then tried to add the support brace that attaches to the hook and the deck. I could not get this in position right so I took it and the hook out and wired and glued the brace to the hook and put it in as one piece. I put a trap on the hook and ran the thread around the "wheel pulley that is used to pull up the trap. I then added the sail. Once in I threaded the line through the eyelet I made on the rear deck. I added the tank, then the traps with the buoys attached. The man and lobsters I added last.
  10. hello everybody I have recently started my new model Langoustier. The hull planking is finished and I am planking the deck.
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