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  1. I final finished my first wooden boat, the Mini Mamoli British Schooner Evergreen, a 1:125 Scale Solid Hull Model after a two year build. This was my first attempt at such an endeavor in 30 years. I had started the Billings Boat’s POB Zwarte Zee , an ocean tug back then but got about only about 85% complete. I never finished it. So with a completed build under my belt, I set my sights on the 1781 American Privateer, The Rattlesnake. I considered the Evergreen my “training wheels” for this build. Although technically the Zwarte Zee was my first POB boat, all of the planking flaws were covered up with wood filler and paint. This would be my first true test in this construction method. What you see is what I built for better or worse. This build was started in October 2010 and I have only now decided in May 2013, to post my build log. I was reluctant to do so because compared to the others members who post comments regularly and have submitted their many build logs, I am but a beginner. I have knowing or unknowingly made many errors, omissions, and mistakes. It would be like hanging out my dirty laundry. But after some prodding by some of the members, I agreed to post my build if anything to show the error of my ways to anyone who wants to follow a slooow moving project. I had a choice of the Mamoli or the Model Shipway kit. After a little research I discovered Robert Hunt’s Practicum (http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/) and thought this is just perfect for me. Having struggled through the minimal instructions of the Norwegian translation for the Zwarte Zee and the simplistic instructions translated from the Italian for the Evergreen, and after reading the free sample Chapter 1 with its highly detailed instructions and detailed photographs, I was easily convinced to purchase Robert’s practicum. There I found that the practicum was based on the Mamoli kit, so I chose that kit to build. To be fair, Mr. Hunt did state that his practicum could also be used for the Model Shipway kit. The practicum was written to both supplement and enhance the original kit instructions or to kitbash the project. Because the “journey” to me is the purpose of building a model, rather than the destination, the final model, I chose to build the kitbash and plunked down my money: · Basic kit - ~$240 · Robert Hunt’s Practicum (http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/) - $150 · Harold Hahn’s plans ¼” scale - $45 · Reduce the Hahn plans 74% to match the kit’s 3/16” scale (1:64) - ~$25 · Hobbymill Wood Package (http://www.hobbymillusa.com/) - $210 This not a cheap build/modification. This does not include the tools that I accumulated and still am accumulating for this project. Hell, it’s a hobby, so it’s OK, that and the fact that I just retired and am a bachelor. A kitbash goes beyond what the basic kit instructs to make the model more interesting, challenging, and pleasing. In this case Mr. Hunt’s practicum is based on the model Harold Hahn, a master model builder, built using plans he created based directly from the original British Admiralty drawings. Although this is an American ship, it was captured by the British and it is from them we can thank for having the historical drawings and the name Rattlesnake. In this model Mr. Hahn used direct woods to create the colors of the ship. Therefore in keeping true the Hahn model, the practicum substitutes the basic kit wood with a wood package purchased separately from Hobbymill (http://www.hobbymillusa.com/); and has you purchase the Harold Hahn copyrighted plans which Robert is basing his kitbashing modifications. Since Mr. Hahn built his model in ¼” scale, the plans have to reduce to match the kit scale of 3/16” (1:64). Your ordinary office copy won’t do the trick due to the size of the sheets. You need a large copier and one that can do reductions, specifically 74%, the kind found at a large stationary store, graphics, or engineering firm.
  2. It is finally time to start the new build! Royal Louis by Mamoli. This will be my third ship in my series of French warships. First being La Couronne, second Soleil Royal and now Royal Louis. My goal with these is to show an evolution of ship building and design throughout the 17th century and into the 18th. I am no expert on the topic, and this is really just for fun but, it has been a very learning and exciting ride so far. Yes, Soleil Royal is still under construction and I have no intention of leaving her unfinished. Much like I did during L.C.'s build, I will be swapping back and forth periodically between the two builds. I have found that for myself on these large and very long builds, (Soleil Royal is quickly approaching the completion of her second trip around the sun with easily another to go) that being able to switch between projects helps to alleviate a lot of those monotonous places in the build that often times drives builders to quit. I just want to give fair warning that if the build goes silent for a long length of time, I'm most likely on the other and feel free to join me there! Next up is the newest addition to my shipyard, the Professional Build Slip from Hobbyzone. I have been wanting to build or buy a build slip for some time and a while back I read through an excellent review and tutorial on assembling this one on MSW. Link here. I decided to give it a try. So far I am happy with it and it has already been a huge help in fixing some of my common issues of bulkhead alignment. I think this will be the start to a lot of years with a great new tool. Now we come to the kit itself. Most of what is in it is fairly common kit pieces. Laser cut false keel, bulkheads and misc. framing pieces. Packages of the usual cast decorations (I will again be carving my own) canons, carriages, furniture etc. The rope looks decent. Not the best to be had but perfectly usable for anyone not wanting to upgrade and still have a nice model. The wood probably impressed me the most. Looking at the bundles, I see nice straight strips, uniform thicknesses and plenty of it. A nice change from the quality of my last two kits. How much of it will I use n this model is yet to be seen, though not from quality but, from color and species choices. Since I am trying to keep my three ships looking relatively the same, I will most likely be switching to mahogany and walnut for the outer hull. We shall see. The instructions are decent but, not for a beginner. Like most kits similar to this one, the drawings and "instructions" leave a a lot of detail out and makes assumptions that you know what you are doing in order to achieve what it shown. Plan on using a lot of outside resources for rigging, planking etc.. All part of the fun right?! Probably the most annoying thing so far that I have seen, is how much stuff is cast metal. Ladders, railings, the ship's wheel and even the boats are all cast metal. I will not be using any of those items on this build. Like most of these kits there are no sails, only the flags so I will need to make my own, though that is a very long time from now. I'm looking forward to another fun and educational build! So let us get started. While waiting on the new slip to get here, (I had a month as it was coming overseas) I was able to get the keel glued together and test fit all the bulkheads and decks to check alignments and to see what modifications I will need to do to accommodate my personal changes. The main ones being the build out of the cabins along with lighting. I did this on S.R. and intend to do the same again. Now that the slip is in and assembled, I sett he keel in place and began to set the bulkheads and installed the first deck. Off to a good start. Filler blocks, fairing the frames, extra supports and all those fun hours of sanding that go into the sub structure that make the model turn out nice is up next. I hope everyone enjoys the journey!
  3. Thought I would start my build log, have just had a good look at Gil's build, am truly inspired, so here goes... Am currently approx. 90 hrs into a build that I started about 11 and a half years ago, two children and a major house move/extension have seen her in dry dock for 5 years now, but house work is nearly at an end so with a bit of luck should be back in the boatshed in the next couple of months, should be done for Xmas (note: didn't say which year!!)
  4. Hey anyone, Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling. As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have). I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way. So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12). It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result: Next up, I needed more experience. I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet. I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc. A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model. So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build. I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can. I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress. Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc. Thanks for looking. Andy.
  5. Many years ago (25-30?), before the advent of the internet, I bought and started construction of this cross section of the USS Constitution. It may have been following a visit to that venerable ship in Boston that I felt so inspired. I got the frame built,deck beams formed and installed, and the planking done outside and in. At that time I started to feel overwhelmed,with many questions that needed answering before I went any further. With no help readily available I packed the unfinished kit away. Someday. I never lost my love of wooden ships and had the opportunity to visit several including the CW Morgan of Mystic, Cutty Sark in Greenwich, and the Draken Harfarge Viking ship. I still felt the tug of building a ship and when we moved to Maryland 3 years ago I started reading about The Pride of Baltimore II which I decided I'd really like to build. I figured that my long neglected Constitution would be a great practice project since I already had most of the hull built, and it only has one mast and spars, and associated rigging. I took her out of her cardboard box dry dock and started work. I made a crude working cradle to hold the hull, and gave the ship a quick coat of polyurethane as a sealer. The The mast dowel is just inserted to check it's fit and rake. The mast step is imperfectly fitted to the hold, but I figure that it will be covered with ballast and barrels so I didn't worry about it. I've read through the other build logs for this kit and if I was to do it over, I would not have installed the deck beams other than the ones over the hold to make it easier to install decking and deck fittings. You live and learn. Installing all the below deck items should be "fun". In my zeal, I mistakenly added un necessary hatch cross pieces between the lower deck's beams. Oh well, it was good practice. I'm planning on using copper foil rather than the cheesy looking green wood chips supplied with the kit. Anyone here tried simply scribing the lines in the copper tape to simulate individual copper plates? It would sure be easier, but might not look convincing. I might try to give the copper an aged patina which could enhance the illusion I can always try a strip or two on a piece of scrap wood to see. One thing that deterred me from working on this kit when I first got it was a dread of figuring out how to thread deadeyes and form ratlines. Now that there's a resource like Model Ship World, I'll have some guidance which is a great relief. I need to figure out a better way to mount the hull. The kit just includes a cheap looking piece of pine and I gather you're supposed to run a couple of screws up through it into the keel,which does not sound very secure. I might build a nicer version of my crude work cradle in better wood, like cherry, for final displaying. I thought it might be fun to have some crew members on deck and aloft, but I can't find any in 1:93 scale. Do you think figures in 1:87,HO railroad scale, would look 'way too off scale? I could probably modify some of those. What's with the natural colored standing rigging cordage supplied with the kit? Can I somehow dye it black or would it be better to replace it? I know I'll have tons of other questions as time goes on, and I welcome any and all criticism and suggestions.
  6. I've finally decided to take the plunge and start my first wooden model. I don't have much experience working with wood (although a friend and I did recently complete a wooden truss-tube telescope - his 3rd, my 1st - but that involved mostly square cuts at a much larger scale), so I thought this cross section would be a good way to get my feet wet, so to speak. With this kit I think I can learn some of the basic skills I will need without getting too caught up right away with learning to bend planks, learn how to strop and rig blocks (3mm blocks! How do you work with those?) and enjoy seeing how the rigging comes together. I've already figured out things I would have done differently, but I think for the most part they will not affect the final look. You will see in some of the pictures below that the planking seems to be at an angle, and not perpendicular to the frames - in reality the spacers are not parallel to the keel but the planking is - should have scribed a line on the frames where the spacers go. I've decided to follow one suggestion I came across in one of the really excellent build logs I've come across and plank the hold up to the point where the deck beams attach and use the planking to keep the support level. One question on bending the deck beams - the plans call for gluing 2 strips of lathe together and putting it in a jig to get the right curve - I am assuming I can just smother the wood in glue and bend and place it in the jig (with wax paper to keep it from sticking to anything else) and it would keep its shape when dry (that is what we did to create the one curved piece on the telescope). Is that correct, or do I need to wet the wood, soak it, putting it in vinegar or rubbing alcohol? Thanks for stopping by.
  7. Where do I start? First, it’s great to find this forum and be able to obtain nearly instantaneous expertise and advice! Of course the first piece of sage advice was in essence, ‘... first time builders don’t start with HMS Victory!!’... and I fully understand that sound advice. But with your help and good Lord willing, I will succeed. I do plan to spend some time rooting around on this grand site to find pertinent information of which I’ve already found and am reading some. But thank you in advance for all the assistance/advice I’m sure to receive (and want!). That’s always better than ‘I knew that would happen!’ After the fact. Background: I’ve been an avid fan of the sailing/warships/Nelson’s navy of the late 18th and early 19th century for more than 40 years, having spent some time in Greenwich (UK) visiting the Maritime Museum (during a Nelson celebration actually) and having been able to visit the Victory in Portsmouth in the 1980’s. I’ve also toured the USS Constitution in Boston - as I’m sure many of you have as well. I purchased this kit (if memory serves) in the early 90’s and have been carrying it around with me for some time now. Having just retired from the workforce, I thought ‘Finally, now is the time!’. Well here goes. As I read in an earlier post, the model directions are a train wreck. I’ve read through the directions and have laid out the various reference items for easy reference. I don’t speak or read Italian so some of the information is difficult to interpret. The below picture is where we stand today having fitted the parts, but not glued anything but the keel (3) sections. I first found that the supporting horizontal beams did not readily fit into the slots. I then went through sanding/scraping the slots to ensure the beam would fit. Couple of observations: (1) The horizontal beams stick out beyond the first frame at the bow. I plan to cut off the ends to align with frame #1 (2) Looking from bow to stern, the various frame tops are not in a horizontal line. That is, starting with frame #10 (through 16) is the frame tops are progressively higher. The result will be the deck will not be horizontal. I’ve verified the frames are all seated correctly but wondering if those frame tops should all be at the same height. If so, I’ll need to remove and sand/adjust the tops accordingly. (3) An initial fit check of the deck closest to the stern (#27) seems to indicate an extremely tight fit... I take it I will need to adjust accordingly. (4) Anything I should know before I glue everything below after (1-3) above are covered? Finally, I’m wondering if the kit has simply ‘expanded’ over the years so that it will be ill fitting across the board.... or perhaps the kits are ill fitting to begin with? All for now; Thanks again for your help/assistance and I hope everyone has a great weekend!
  8. Hi After years of reading the books decided to take the plunge and build the ship that features so heavily. I chose the Mamoli kit in the knowledge that it does not bear much resemblance to the real Surprise or those that appeared in the movie or books. My choice was driven partially due to the size and my little boy has insisted that I add a crew. I will make some modifications to this model so it is closer to how I imagined the Surprise to look which has been coloured by the movie and some of the other kits out there. I am very slow in building but am using this log as a motivation to keep going. Will try to post some photos later on once I figure out how to do so. Just posted the normal unboxing photos as an experiment.
  9. Greetings all! My first post is to display the find that brought me here. I found this kit in a thrift store down the street. They wanted $100 for it, but gave me a military discount! I was thrilled, since I have been to see the ship when I was on a business trip in Boston. It really made an impression on me. I enjoyed the museum. I learned about the time during a storm when the ship came loose from its lines and was swinging around on its remaining moorings. It swung into the modern steel warship moored next to it and did extreme damage to it, while taking only scratches itself. An amazing ship, undefeated in battle (even if it required her crew to man the boats and tow her out of the doldrums.) My background in making stuff is mixed. Plane models as a kid, home repair, car modifications, machining, and extensive gunsmithing. I have never done anything more detailed in wood than a pinewood derby car, but I'm ex-military, and believe I can follow a manual. Looks like everything is here. We'll see!
  10. Hi all, In a few weeks i will start my third built, Le Coureur which i purchased a few weeks ago. I already learnt quite a lot building the AL Red Dragon and Le Renard but I was reticent to post anything but a couple of technical questions. So this time I will muster the courage to post and share my accomplishments, mistakes and disappointments. Feel free to chime in, share suggestions and give constructive criticism, and if you already have built this Mamoli kit please let me know how it went and if there are pitfalls i should be aware of. Thanks! PC
  11. I started this build log for one reason, there wasn't much of these being built for such an important ship. I tried my hand at the bluenose 2 as a first build and ended up abandoning her... let's just say one late night there was a shipwreck, might end up being a scratch build in the distant future. For know I'm tackling mamoli's kit. At first I noticed the plans are so much worse then artisana's, thank God for the interwebz as I'm learning how to build from those befor me. The wood as well is in very poor quality, I had a warp in the keel and the balkheads were very badly cut (all pre-cut by hand). The wood planks were all mixed up in one big bag, and some broke just by handling them, in part from the old kit and some just broke (5×5 broke in 1/2 cause if a knot in the middle). As a clear indicator of age on this kit... the little rubber bands that were suppose to hold a plank bundle together was basically brittle plastic that disintergrated on touch and stained the wood. I guess I grabbed a very old kit. I'm missing lots of wood like the blocks on the "nose" of the ship to round the plank into the keel. Had to fab up my own, no big deal but still a bit of a headache as this is my first real go at things. To do it all over again I wouldn't have bought the mamoli as the price of the kit isn't representative of quality in the slightest. Anyways, mamoli bashing aside her we go with a few pics. Of my cat... because why not start with that adorable face 🤣 These are the pictures I took upon opening of the kit. Anyone willing to guess at the age?
  12. Hello and welcome to all. I guess luck was on my side when I found this kit very cheaply on eBay. I certainly had concerns it would be incomplete yet took a chance and was excited when it arrived as the only contents package in the kit that had been opened was the planking bag. I don't think any are missing but if there are they can be easily sourced. Its a very old kit and on inspection I found the keel, deck and bulkheads to be very roughly cut which will require some recutting and repairing. All the other parts including cast metal, brass and pre finished hardwoods are in great condition. The Mamoli kit recreates a 16th century Carrack, double planking bulkhead construction using lime wood, walnut, mahogany, poplar and other woods. Fittings are cast metal, brass and preformed hardwoods. Nine sheets of plans, 12 cannons and sails. Scale 1:54 Total length 833 mm Total height 650 mm Drawings are dated 1978. A little study has been done and a few pieces of reference have been found. The ship is a three masted Carrack, length of the hull was 35 metres. Height from the top of the mast to the keel was approximately 30 meters. The prints of that name and the documents found in the historical archives of Barcelona allowed the reconstruction of the ships plans, which takes its place between the medieval merchant ship and the galleon , classed for its particular structures of the forecastle and the quarterdeck among the Carracks. Probably around 1519 it took part in an important expedition, which led Fernandez Cortez to conquer Mexico. ( I'm yet to find any other evidence to support that reference ). The outer galleries, one of which is a balcony, the apartments under the small quarterdeck , the super structures of the decks providing the installation of awnings for protection from the sun, indicates they were employed for passengers of wealth and high class. Characteristics of the ship are the escutcheons at the prow, painted with very bright colours and merely having a decorative function. Portugese merchant ships like the Caracca Atlantica played a vital part in the age of exploration. They were fully rigged to run before the prevailing winds, large enough to hold precious cargoes of spices, and armed for protection against hostile natives and greedy pirates ( was there ever another sort of pirate). When Magellan sailed around the world his entire fleet consisted of these vessels, known as Caracks. At this point I'd like to give a huge thanks to Louie the Fly for inspiring and helping to learn a little about the ship before I build. Once again thank Louie the Fly. ill post a few pics I've found of the model once completed. In my next log I'll add the drawing pictures and the contents of the kit along with a few ideas to change the stern galleries which I find unsightly and very busy to the eye. cheers to all Kikatinalong
  13. Many years ago when I was working on the Syren, I decided that I wished to have a model ship finished sooner rather than later, as the Syren was going to take a while. There is strong irony in that sentence, but I'll move on. I also wanted to build a wooden model from a kit, as I'd never purchased a wooden ship kit before. The Mini-Mamoli kit of the Nina eventually ended up on the workbench. The start of this project was around 2010 or so. Below is the front of the box complete with dried glue, wood strips and sawdust. I'm going to post the photos I've taken through the years with commentary along the way. I'm posting this log as it is a fun and simple kit, which I think I really will be able to complete soon.
  14. A few weeks ago, whilst on holiday in Lerici, Italy, I happened to come across a box in a junk shop containing the Mamoli 1:55 model kit Roter Lowe. The shop wanted €5 (about US$6) for the kit, but could (needless to say!), offer no guarantee that all parts were included! However, for €5 it seemed worth a punt and the plastic box of parts and other component bags were unopened (although a couple of spars were broken -but looked as if they could be repaired)! This is my first model build and I must admit that it is proving challenging, not helped by the very poor English translation of the Mamoli Italian instructions. My Build Log continues from the point reached in the excellent log by Stevinne -I've started my Build Log around the point where Stevinne's log finishes. The Mamoli instructions are silent about mounting the guns -I've wired mine to the carriages using paper-clips to ensure they don't come apart. Also, Mamoli don't state at what stage to glue the guns in place -I can't see how this can be done after the planking is complete -so I've done it before starting the planking. I've also made bow fillers out of balsa -there are quite a few comments about the benefits of doing this elsewhere on the website -it was time-consuming to do, but does make the planking easier. The metal gun port surrounds are proving problematic. I glued these in place with epoxy adhesive early in the build and its clear that several are standing proud of the hull -I can see no option other than grinding them flush with the first layer of strakes before laying the outer layer of hardwood strakes. It's going to be really tedious & it would have been good if the Mamoli instructions had made it clearer that they should not stand proud when glued into position .
  15. Captain's Log: This is my second wooden ship kit build, and while it is daunting (the first was a simple sloop - almost too easy) it is mostly going OK, apart from quite a few missing pieces (note to self, check that everything is in the box immediately after receiving and opening it - not 6 months later after the returns policy for the retailer has well and truly expired...). The hull is essentially complete - the outer planking is a little "unique" towards the bow, as I did not quite understand the importance of sanding down the ribs to get a clean rounded plank-line from bow to stern - won't make that mistake again. A further challenge was working out the chamfer on each plank - the plan just casually tells you to chamfer "to fit" - well, sure, I guess... After fitting the side rails, the next step will be to find some decent images of a typical deck configuration - I'm going to have to custom carve some of the missing pieces, such as the posts for the stern guard rail, but the manufacturer's plan doesn't have enough detail to work out the dimensions, alas - just a few rough sketches. I'm spending a fair bit of time on Google translate, too - the original plans and instructions are in Italian, and the English translation they have provided is pretty woeful, to be honest. Another lesson learned (unlike my Italian lessons at school...). Still, all in all, it's coming along OK - hoping that if (or when...) I hit a reef there will be someone on this group who has been there before and can send a few navigational pointers through!
  16. This is my first build. Have the kit, have tools, paint and adhesives by the weekend. Hope to get advice making heads and tails of the parts...
  17. I spent quite a bit of time learning how to read the Mamoli rigging plans. Since there were no explicit instructions on how to interpret the drawings I spent a great deal of time looking through them before I figured out their method. Once I did, it was pretty straight forward. I thought perhaps others might find this useful. Perhaps this is how all rigging plans are done. Since the Connie is my first kit, I have no reference. I also need to mention this kit was purchased in 1991 so it may have changed. However for what it is worth here is how my plans are interpretted. There are two tables on each rigging page. The first table is on the right and lists all the parts, this is standard on all the Mamoli pages. However the second table, placed directly to the left of the first left is only on the rigging pages. the tables are not really labeled or numbered but they are consistent on how they arrange them. The only difference is where they are placed on the plan. For this illustration I will show how to interpret the rigging on the Mizzen (part o552) circled on the drawing. Here is a copy of the appropriate section from the plans: This shows a rigging set running from the tip of one of the Mizzen booms to the cap just above the Main Mast's fighting top. First we need to see what the parts are for this rigging. The size of the line, the size of the blocks, etc. For this we turn to the right most table on the plans. This table is on all of the plans an lists the all the parts of the ship as well as the various sizes. In some cases, the part number might refer to a different page of the plans if the part was installed much earlier so you might have to refer back to another page of drawings. Here is a copy of the section in the table dealing with the rigging for this piece. We can see here that 0552 (o552 in the above drawing) is labeled Braccio (which means "Arm"), the second column tell us that the amount is the same as the above parts, which is 2, although you can't see that in this photo. More importantly, the second column from the right says 0,25, which means this is the 0.25mm line. So now we know the size of the line, let's see where it runs. The second table directly to the left of the parts list table contains the order a line runs by listing the part numbers in the order they go starting at the lines termination in the rigging and ending at the termination on the deck. The entry for 0552 shows 0552 D = 0554+055+0554+0556 (fig 10). This is chock full of valuable information. Ignore the pencil marks, that is how I track when I install a line. First the line will start at at part 0554. We can look on the first chart and see 0554 is a block (Bozello) that is made of walnut and is a single 4mm block (1x4). This also refers to a figure (fig. 10) for more information. This figure is shown below: This shows the manner the blocks are attached to the mast cap. If we want more information on the rings we can refer back to the first drawing of the rigging and see this part is 0553. Referring back to the first table we can see that part 0553 is a 3mm brass eye ring (Anello con Gambo = Ring with shank) the OTN refers to a table in the general instructions that shows it is made of brass. So after the two rings are installed on the cap, the block is added with the .25mm line attached to it. This then runs to the block 0555. The table tells us this is also a 1x4 walnut block that is attached to the end of the spar. The line then returns to 0554 and runs toward the deck. As a note here, if the line also went through the fighting top, that too would have been listed in the order the line ran through it. In this case it does not but goes directly from the block (0554) to part 0556, which table 1 informs us is a belaying pin (Caviglia). The termination point is shown not only in the table but also in the rigging diagram. The sheet also has a diagram showing the layout of the termination points when viewed from the rigging. From this we can see that 0556 is the third belaying pin aft in the 4 pin belaying rack located on the starboard side between the two fife rails. The port side has a matching set for the matching mirrored rigging set. So that is it. A further note on terminations, if a line terminates tied to a side shroud, the shroud grouping is noted and it is numbered from front to back. So the rigging drawing would show the shroud set from the side and give you the number it would be referred to as. This would look like the following: Any lines terminating on one of these shrouds will be labeled 16(x) with x being the number of the shroud from the bow. The following drawing shows how this shroud is referred to int he rigging drawing. So this shows the top line would terminate on shroud set 16 on the 6th shroud. The one below is marked to terminate on the 5th shroud. It is hard to read but you can see my pencil marks to the left of the number. So this is how the rigging plans work. I stopped working the lines from the top of the table down since they tended to number the lines from the bottom up. This meant that the top lines which normally run down the center of the ship, had to be fished through the other lines. However, other than that, I have ben following these diagrams pretty much as they are drawn. [ dia=core:attachments:202725]
  18. Hello, i was dreaming to build wood ship model for some time, but did not start for long time, i thought i will never finish it, as it is so delicate work. But i got for present a model kit USS Lexington. I got all the tools and started to work. Now it is 5 months of work on this model, it is taking a lot of time, it is my first model. Show you few photos. The_Lexington 1776. The_Lexington_1776 In anticipation of the war against England, the merchantman Lexington was armed and converted into a Brigantine in 1775 to become part of the continental Navy. On April 17, 1776 she captured the tender Edward, the first British ship to be taken at sea by the Colonists. The following year she fought in the Bay of Biscay, the English Channel and the Irish Coast. On September 20, 1777 during her return trip from France, the Lexington was overtaken by the English cutter Alert. After a fierce gunbattle, Lexington ran out of ammunition and was forced to surrender. To make nice gun holes not an easy task! Life boat is painted. Steering wheel is working. Work is on progress, now rigging the ship.
  19. i start this ship at January 18, 2010 still in progress of Building i belive it took time more than the real on i restart working after year and half of stoping it i just finish all the cooper things and next week i will start to finish all the plank and gun port hope not taking long time to finish
  20. I decided on the H.M.S. Beagle because we had traveled to he Galapagos islands back in 2012. I purchased the kit on eBay after it was no longer available from the manufacturer. This particular kit was originally purchased in 1995, so it us already 23 years old. So far, I have scanned and OCR'd the instructions and parts lists from the original instructions. From that, I created a master parts list to compare to the inventory provided. Almost everything seems to be there, but I have two items that I need some help identifying. These were in the same bag as the cannon and carriages. They look like a strap to hold the wheel axles, but the bumps do not line up with the axle indents on the carriage. And I haven't been able to identify what these might be. Any help identifying these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  21. Hi Gals and Guys My name is Jolene but my friends call me Jo. I recently joined this wonderful forum and have received wonderful advice from some of the members. I have been looking round on people's logs and I am amazed at the very high standard of workmanship, I take my hat off to you all. So it is time to dip my toes in the icy waters of wooden model ship building. So as this is my first wooden ship build I am asking for you all not to be hard on me with your comments, as I am willing to learn and take advice. My first build will be the IL Leudo. But I am still waiting for the postman to deliver my little ship to my door that I will be waiting behind so I can grab it out of his hands. Jo.
  22. So, after finishing my Benjamin W. Latham, and after a busy summer, I have been thinking about my next build. I had several options: resuming my Hesper build now that the hull is completed, build another fishing schooner like Elsie, build the Emma C. Berry which has been collecting dust on my shelves, and also having visited Rochefort in France this summer, I saw the Hermione -again- and building the kit from A.L. tempted me. Not to bore anyone, but here was my line of thinking. As tempting as the Hermione is, and after seeing several build logs, I finally decided to stay away from this kit, as I thought a kit at that scale does a poor rendering of the real vessel. I then went back to the schooner list. My ideal choice would be a POB, scale 1/4 . Unfortunately, there are not many such kits on the market. An option would be of course to scratchbuild. After seeing the beautiful Elsie model from Erik Ronnberg at the Cape Ann Essex museum, I got the plans and looked into building it POB on that 1/4 scale. But Elsie looks a lot like the Benjamin W. Latham, so I decided to abandon this idea. Which brings me to America. A legendary schooner, well (?) documented, many models existing. Here again, no POB is available at 1/4 scale. There is the bluejacket POF, the Mamoli POB at 1/66 scale, and I think there was a Constructo available at some point. I got the 1/48 plans of the BlueJacket America and studied them carefully. As Chapelle said in his book The History of American Sailing Ships, “a great many plans of the America have been published in the past, unfortunately , however, not two agree.” However from my research, the B.J. version seems to be the closest one to the original America, especially as she competed in 1851. Because I am interested in building models as close as the real one, a scratchbuild POB option based on the B.J. plan seemed a good approach. However, I tabled that idea for now, and decided to start the Mamoli kit instead to get a general idea of the model. I expect there will be a lot of kitbashing involved, based on the building logs I have seen here. I ordered the kit and will post the progress here. Stay tuned….
  23. Hello! I am new in this forum and this is my first wooden boat model i am building. I am just finish the first planking and in to the number 2 planking using mahogany strips. I find this part of the building not so easy do to the shape of the hull and the sokening of strips and the shaping of the strips. But i will make som paperstrips to use as templates to see how the the trips are going to be trimed to fit the shape of the hull. I will post som more pictures later on. Regards B. Brekke
  24. Hi All, After my build of the Half Moon, I started buiding the Friesland of Mamoli. However, when the 2nd planking was nearly done, I paused buiding due to all kinds of circumstances. Now that I'm working from home for 2 months already (due to Corona), I picked up buiding again. I'll post some pictures of the buid in 2013, end then continue where I left off. I hope to finish this build, I didn't start a report earlier because I was afraid I wouldn't keep it up. But now I built for 2 months already, I dare to start. this report. Hopefully you like it, and help my motivation to keep up! Best regards, Alex
  25. So here I start another Build Log... This being my 3rd wooden model ship started, and only one being completed (the first perhaps a little bit over my head), I purchased this model kit on Ebay for a very good price about 20 months ago and actually only began this kit in the late fall last year. At first I was not going to do a build log as I always find my time limited with regards to posting progress and updates but given the lack of build logs for this particular Mamoli kit (another one, the first on this forum, just recently started this last month), I thought I would start one. I have always found the age of Exploration of the most interest, and especially with regards to Christopher Columbus... and that being said here is the token picture of the opened box.
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