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  1. Now that I have reconstructed my Bounty Jolly boat buildlog, I will redo my Golden Star log. I started building the Golden Star almost the same day I finished the jolly boat - getting hooked on this hobby It was rather a random choice to build this model - it was basically what the store had in my budget that I thought I could build. It is very much built as a learning process before I start on some of the ships I really want to build - the Bounty being one of them. Especially with regards to planking and the rigging - after the jolly boat the rigging on the Golden Star looks rather daunting - but thats equal to a good challenge And it certainly has been a learning process already - mainly with the planking (but then, at the time of writing, the planking is "all" I have done ). Please feel free to comment or ask questions. So time for some pictures:
  2. I have just finished my Amati Revenge and I'm going to jump right in and start on this kit. I've read about this kit and know its reputation so hopefully I'm prepared for the issues that will pop up and with the assistance of the existing logs will be able to work through them. Despite the issues I'm very impressed with the look of the finished kits I've seen, it can be a very beautiful ship and I'm hoping I'll be able to make it look good. Some of the issues I expect to face will be the hull planking as I don't plan on painting the hull so the sections of pre cut and laser etched hull probably won't match each other when stained. I'm keeping open the idea of replacing those pre-cut and etched areas with planking and just purchasing enough wood to be able to plank the entire hull with the same wood. I'm sure I'll have to get a little further into it to figure out what I'm going to do. I've also seen multiple comments about the alignment of the decks and cannon ports so I'll try to be extra careful as I assemble that area and make sure I get all that aligned correctly without having to take things apart. I haven't been able to find a log of this kit that's less than several years old so I'll try and note things that are different from the logs I've seen. I'm hoping some of the instructions will have been corrected over the years, I did check the book that came with the kit and as far as I can tell it matches the PDF on the Mantua website. Initial inspection of the parts seem to show that everything seems to be of good quality, some of the brass looks a little less than completely sharp in definition but nothing that really bothers me from what I've seen so far. I'm not crazy about the pre-etched decks, I really enjoyed doing the decking on the Revenge but I suspect that if I try to deck over the provided deck here it's be way too thick but we'll see as I get there. I consider myself more of a kit nudger than a basher so I'm not looking to do a total rework of how the kit does things, just make slight improvements where I can. All in all I'm ready to get started and see where this goes, I feel like it's a completely different type of kit than the Revenge, not good or bad, just different.
  3. Guess this time I'll start at the beginning. I'll spare the group the open box pictures. I did inventory everything in there. It's all there. The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality. The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them. I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots. Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible. The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials. Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed. I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step. As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them: This thing is big!! I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that. Wish me luck! - Tim
  4. Hi, I'm Phil. I'm about ten months into my build. I've never done a ship of the line before, so this is a learning experience. I chose to build the HMS Victory because I wanted to do a ship of the line. I bought it off of E-Bay on an auction. The kit dates back from 1991. I've had a few difficulties due to the age of the wood and my relative inexperience (compared to most of you guys) in wooden ship modelling. I am very patient. I am very stubborn. I have lots of experience with other types of models to draw from. I have finished the rough work on the hull. Both layers of planking are on. The stern and quarter galleries are built and painted. I have the base color scheme painted on. I am going to be coppering the bottom of the hull. I have 3/16" copper tape, a pounce wheel and Gene Bodnar's article on making copper plates using self adhesive copper tape (thank you very much, Gene, for writing that, as well as the other articles that you have written), that I pulled off of this website. I plan on making very good use of all three . Here's where I'm at right now:
  5. This is my first build log (please forgive me if it lacks pertinent info) for this ship kit, however, not my first build. I finished a little schooner years ago but cannot remember the brand nor year I purchased it (sorry). I can post some pics of it if anyone is interested. I started the Albatros about 6 years ago but then life happened and it had to be put into storage. I no longer have the box it came in but luckily I haven’t lost any of the parts. I don’t know much about this type of ship other than it was built around 1840 at the Baltimore shipyards. It was designed to defend the Atlantic coast with its speed and easy maneuverability. The kit came with a false deck where the bulkhead frames of the hull do not come above the deck. The instructions had me plank the deck with individual planks before planking the hull. This is as far as I progressed. I didn’t place any caulking material between the planks and now I wish I had. I made tiny pinhole marks on the timber to resemble nail heads. At the time, I decided I wanted to distress the deck planking but now I’m rather regretting it. I’m guessing a wood stain would help conceal the damage? I haven’t applied any sealer to it yet thank goodness. I would like to construct a better keel clamp before I move forward as the one I have now is quite awkward and unreliable. I’ve seen many tutorials for this so hopefully next time I post I will have something to show you. That’s all I have for you now, and please, any suggestions/advice will be appreciated by this amateur builder😄 ~ Rachel
  6. Hello and welcome to my log of the HMS Victory by Panart this is not a rolling log as I built the ship before discovering MSW this was my first model ship I completed it in around eleven months ,knowing what I know now about ship building I would have spent more time and added much more detail however I am happy with the results and would like to share the images with you all as from time to time in my other logs you may hear me refear to the victory thankyou for viewing and please enjoy the following steve
  7. This is my first ship model build so please excuse the mistakes. I actually started this model in the mid '90s with the delusion I would build it over a summer, quickly realized I had no concept of what it would actually take, then got distracted by multiple kids and life in general. The result was I took about 20 years off, but always planned to pick it back up again. I dusted it off earlier this year and have finally started to make progress. When I stopped in the '90s I had only completed the ribs, deck, the upper portion of the hull planking, and a few gun ports (that was about the time I realized the true scope of the project). So the first thing I did was finish the gun ports....... Then I moved on to hull planking....first layer (a little rough) Second layer....getting a little smoother High tech waterline tool.....the two-tone wood colour is due to a 20 year gap between laying the planks!
  8. Started the HMS Victory the other night and already caught my first mistake with the bulkheads. Bulkheads number 4 and 5 were in each others position. They look very simular with the exception to the very top. Ended up cutting the the false deck plates (no:15 & 16), chiseling the glue join very carefully and as a unit rotated the unit into the proper position. Very lucky! Now re-glue and add some additional bracing under the false deck plates.
  9. Hi everyone, In this log you'll be able to follow my built of the beautiful french tallship LE SUPERBE. Like my other finish builts, i'm not looking for a period exact ship and try to do my best with the plans that come in the kit. I suppose i'm a layback builder looking to make a stunning result that i'm gonna be proud. The colors i choose for this buit are black and gold. I hope you'll enjoy it as much as i am. I have already begin the build some time ago and taken pictures during the process. I'll post those pictures with minimal explanations and concentrate writing my thought on the part i'm now building. If you have any comment or question on those first posts, i'll be glad to anwser you. Keven Deschenes -kedes1-
  10. Hi, This is my first wooden ship build. I started quite a few years ago, but I'll start the log from the beginning. I'm learning as I go, so I'll let you know my mistakes as well as problems with the kit. Thanks Marc
  11. I am resuming a build of the Mantua Albatros "Goleta tipica di Baltimora" - a Baltimore clipper, fitted out as a revenue cutter. I started the kit back in the mid 1980s and finished planking the hull. Then other things came along (buying a house, getting married, etc.) that left little time for ship modeling. The partially completed hull has resided on my bookshelf for about 30 years. I really like the lines of these ships so I decided to resume the build, but I am not sure what it will end up being. I am building it to get experience with a few new techniques. This is the 1980s kit, and it is different from the latest Mantua Albatros kit description on line. The new kit has a false deck, apparently of thin plywood, and the 1980s kit does not. The newer kit seems to have mahogany hull planking, and the older kit used tiglio or lime wood. The older kit came with two drawing sheets, hull construction and sail plan, plus brief instructions. The Mantua web site says the new kit has three drawings, and at least one appears to be the same as the 1980s kit. The 1980s "instructions" are a joke - one page saying to assemble the hull frames, plank the hull, assemble the base, build the masts and finish the rigging - just about that brief! For me this isn't a problem. I have been researching and scratch building plank on bulkhead models since I was a kid. I have searched and found no record of a Baltimore clipper named "Albatros." The kit name suggests Mantua's "famous" ship is just "typical" of a Baltimore clipper. Looking at the plans for the model and plans for actual Baltimore clippers I can see quite a few differences. This raises several questions, and I would appreciate any help you can offer. 1. Scale. The 1980s kit plans and instructions give no scale. Comparing with other ships I guessed it was about 1:64 scale. Some sites say the Mantua model is 1:55 scale, and the latest Mantua web site says it is 1:40 scale. The model is about 27" long (tip of bowsprit to end of the spanker boom), and this is what Mantua says is the length of their latest Albatros model. The waterline (length between perpendiculars) is about 17 inches. This would give a full scale hull length between perpendiculars of: 1:40 - 56' 4" and about 70 tons 1:55 - 78' and about 100 tons 1:64 - 90' 8" and about 180 tons Baltimore clippers were constructed in approximately all of these sizes between 1800 and 1820. Since the model has only six cannons plus one larger gun on the centerline, I assume the 1:40 scale is close. There were several 60 foot ships built. Any thoughts? 2. Mast angles. The Mantua plans show the rake of the fore mast to be 2-3 degrees and the main mast to be 5 degrees relative to the water line. I examined plans and drawings for 17 Baltimore clippers and found the mast rakes to be: Fore mast - 11.5 degrees average, with a range of 7-16 degrees Main mast - 13.75 degree average, with a range of 8-22 degrees The rake of the masts is one of the outstanding characteristics of these ships, and none were as boring as 3-5 degrees! I plan to build it with 11.5 and 14 degree rakes. 3. Deck fittings. The Mantua kit has four hatches with gratings and one flat solid hatch on the deck. Looking through Chapelle's books I see that almost all of the revenue cutters had some form of low deck house and companionway, even the small 30 ton ships. I think I will build deck fittings similar to an actual 70-80 ton revenue cutter. 4. Stern. Most Baltimore clippers had either round tuck or square tuck transoms. A few appear to have had curved transoms. The kit plans seem to show an odd flat stepped square tuck like nothing I see in any of the Baltimore clipper plans. In any case, when I started the kit in the '80s I constructed a curved transom faired into the hull lines, more like some of the later schooners I have seen. It may not be accurate for an 1815 revenue cutter, but I am not going to deconstruct the hull and start over again! 5. Colors. The hull was painted with white lead below the waterline. Chapelle says American schooners after the Revolution were painted yellow topside with black trim. In the early 1800s they were painted yellow topside with a broad black stripe along the gun ports. Deck houses were white or light gray, and bulwarks could be red, brown, green, blue, white or varnished. The kit box cover shows a broad yellow stripe along the gun ports with brown/black trim, and yellow bulwarks with brown/black trim. I am inclined to use the broad black stripe along the gun ports (between the main deck and cap rail) with yellow trim above and white below the waterline. The bulwarks will be white or yellow, and the deck furniture white. 6. Deck planking. I am familiar with nibbing, but this didn't come into practice until the mid 1800s. Before that planking was tapered and hooked. I have thought about this, and read the few tutorials on hooked deck planking, and I just don't understand the procedure. If you start planking at the center line and work outwards, you apparently have to curve the outermost plank while laying it and then cut into the previously laid plank to create the hook. Nibbing is a lot simpler! By the 1850s planking on revenue cutters was nibbed, so I guess I could build the ship as a mid 1800s revenue cutter. But I need the practice with the hooking technique for the next build I am planning to make (Rattlesnake). I guess I will create a CAD plan of the deck and practice making the hooked deck planking. I'll post some pictures of the 1980s hull and current modifications later. Phil
  12. After a few years of building model boats I’ve finally decided to do a build log of Mantua Models Trotamares due to being unable to find a build log anywhere. I normally use build logs as a helpful guide when the provided instructions are a little sketchy. Hopefully I’ll not have too many problems with this build.
  13. Well I got the kit last night. UPS came at 8:00PM. I had ordered it from Model Ship Building College in Australia. (it was little lower cost) According to the internet tracking it made 27 transfer on it's way here. the shipment came through Europe,London, New York, Miami, to Palm Beach Gardens I am not going to unpack it any further than that. I'll do it as I need the parts I do not intend to finish it like the pictures in the box. I am going to paint the hull flat white, and tone down the finish everywhere. Also I intend to put lights in it like the model of the "Portland" that I just finished. A quick review of the drawings and part show that Mantua took some liberty in making this kit a true "Scale Model". The paddle wheel scales out to be 28 ft in Dia where it should be in the 16 - 18 range. The aspect ratio of the model makes it appear short and tall.
  14. I started my build on the Amerigo Vespucci in March 2019. Here are photos as I progressed thru the build. Still a way to go. Progress up to the end of Manual # 5 I decided to add LED's to the build and here I have wired it up with 70 LED's.
  15. So I ordered this kit and it is out for delivery today. It's my first large wood model kit and the first model kit in over 30 years. I was an avid modeler of mostly plastic kits until College. I'm a few years from retirement and decided to restart my hobby. I have been reading the abundance of material on this site and watching many videos. I'm looking forward to the challenge. I've found these kits for this ship as far back as the 1980's but have no idea when the first wood model was. I found it listed on many sites but most were out of stock with no idea when they would be restocked. I paid more for it than I should have but I found the last one available from an Amazon store and decided to pull the trigger anyway. I will appreciate any feedback, positive or negative on the build and any suggestions as well. Attached is the manufacturer's photo Thanks
  16. Hi one and all. This post was originally written on 26th December 2020. For a build thread on another forum, but I have decided to move it all to here. First a back story: I bought this particular kit after exhibiting at the first London Model Engineering Exhibition held at The Alexandra Palace in 1996, yes almost 25 years ago! At that time I was building and showing RC boats and racing Tamiya1/10 off road cars whilst assisting at the Chesham Model Shop in Buckinghamshire, who were the UK importer of Wedico boat and truck kits. They had a stand at the Model Engineers Exhibition and I was able to attend every day so had lots of time to browse around. One divorce and five homes later I think that I should at least start it and hopefully see it through to completion. This kit is fairly straightforward plank on frame construction with just a few fiddly bits. The most obvious change in this kit since I bought it is that now wooden parts in kits are laser cut whereas this kit has all the frames and other ply parts either partway machine cut with a router or just printed on solid wood that will need to be cut out with a fretsaw. The next post will be the build start. Colin.
  17. Hi ship bulders, this is my first wood model and I like to share my build log with you, so by your comments I can learn to build wood model ships better. From other posts I know, that Golden Star is not very realistic ship | brig, but I started to do it more by myself, so some details will be different from original. I hope, that this will do it more realistic and more detailed as is a kit model. Also I want to learn build wood ships and work with wood. As you can see on last picture, I haven't a big table for building, but it enough to me, because this is table made by me, so I feel better . I started to built a ship year ago, so I will post the steps up to now in short time.
  18. Here's my USS Constitution kit, I got this off of craigslist for $25.00. I had to get it at that price. So I'm taking the first step. Step 1: - Open the Box. Step2 : Make sure it's all there. Step3: Get a "Dry Dock" workstation going. I went ahead and took an old aquarium stand (48 gallon) and added the 2x4 supports to hold an overhead 2 bulb flourescent lighting system. I am an old fart, and I need bright lights to help me see better. I have nestled this Dry Dock in between my "Rockhounding" and "Lapidary" collections. My first chosen task - made a "Build Board". Or maybe some call it a "keel Clamp". Well that's all for today. According to the "instructions" my first task is to cut out all the bulkheads, and mount them. Hopefully I will get time to do this part sometime this week. I really hope I haven't started to early, cause I have a lot of other things to take of. Like looking for a job, and writing automatic stock trading programs.
  19. Hello, after the warm welcome in this forum and the interest on a build log of the "Amerigo Vespucci", I will start it now. As you may know it is an Italien sail training ship which was originally build 1931. The model bases on the Mantua-Kit, which I tried to optimize according to pictures of the real Ship. I started to build the model in 1994, but just shortly after the begin, I had to disturb the building due to job, wife, house building, kids, ... A few years ago I restarted building the model again. Some data: Mantua Kit scale 1:84 length 1,25m hight 0,75m In a german forum I have already started a build log of this ship a few months ago. Therefore, first I will present as an overview also the steps which I have done since this time. Unfortunately, I have got no pictures from the earlier steps, so I will start with a mostly ready body of the ship and show you first some detail pictures. Hope, you enjoy it. Best regards, Joachim
  20. ***Royal Caroline 1749 - Panart / Mantua Models*** Hello my friends!! It has been a while, a few months actually after completing my Santa Maria project. It was a joy to build and a honour to receive all those warm responses! I hope not to let you guys / galls down with this new project! During my absense I moved to a new house and I have been busy to make it a home. My last house was a temp. rental and the place had limited space. Due to the limited space I had to build my SM in the kitchen at the kitchentable. Our new house has enough space to have my own buildingplace, but I desided not to move to a seperate room. I liked working in the kitchen which is close to my family members in the house and so I'm not so isolated. Having small kids, this suits my family best. I do not use powertools, so I can easily clean up my workplace after working on the ship. What to choose... So, I had some difficulties to make a choice of a model for my next project. I narrowed my search to go for an Italian manufacturer like Amati, Corel or Mantua / Sergal / Panart, Euromodel. I had a specific budget for my next model as well, so that narrowed my search again. At last I desided to go for a English, Dutch or French 17th or 18th century. By this a few model ships were left on the list and I choose Royal Caroline of Panart, which is part of Mantua Models. The history of HMY Royal Caroline 1750 HMY Royal Caroline was a ship-rigged royal yacht. She was ordered in 1749 to replace HMY Carolina as Britain's principal royal yacht. She was built at Deptford Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright John Hollond to a design by Surveyor of the Navy Joseph Allin. She was launched on 29 January 1750 and was broken up 70 years later, in 1820. Service Royal Caroline was first commissioned under Captain Sir Charles Molloy, who commanded her until 1753. Captain Sir Piercy Brett took over in 1754, and in August 1761 she became the flagship of Admiral of the Fleet Lord Anson, with Captain Peter Denis as his flag-captain. Anson had orders to convey Duchess Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz from Cuxhaven, Kiel to marry George III. Accompanying the yacht, renamed HMY Royal Charlotte in honour of the occasion, was a squadron of warships and four other royal yachts, HMY Mary, Katherine, Augusta and Fubbs. During the return voyage the squadron was three times blown over to the Norwegian coast by westerly gales and took ten days to reach Harwich, which it did on 6 September 1761. Royal Charlotte was commissioned under Peter Denis in December 1763, and remained under his command until 1770. Denis was succeeded by Captain John Campbell that year, and Campbell remained in command until his promotion to rear-admiral in 1777.[1] Royal Charlotte was recommissioned under Captain William Cornwallis in March 1783, and he was succeeded in turn by Captain Sir Hyde Parker in 1788. The yacht was briefly recommissioned in December 1792, but was paid off the following year. French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars She continued to be used for official occasions during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, with King George III making frequent trips in his yachts to welcome returning fleets and to conduct fleet reviews. The King embarked on Royal Charlotte in 1797 to visit the fleet at the Nore after the Battle of Camperdown, in order to honour Admiral Adam Duncan. Contrary winds however prevented the ship from reaching the mouth of the Thames, and instead the King was blown back up river to Greenwich. Royal Charlotte recommissioned again in May 1801 under Captain Sir Harry Neale, though by February 1804 Captain George Grey was in command. Grey was succeeded later in 1804 by Captain George Henry Towry, and he in turn in 1805 by Captain Edward Foote. By this time Royal Charlotte had been succeeded as the principal royal yacht by the introduction of the slightly larger HMY Royal Sovereign in 1804. Captain Foote commanded the yacht until 1812, when Captain Thomas Eyles took over command, and in June 1814 Captain George Scott became her commander. Royal Charlotte continued in service until July 1820, when she was finally broken up. source: Wikipedia The ins and outs of the box The box itself is made of cardboard. The typical standard in boxland. Shape of the box is long and narrow to hold wooden and metal parts. The boxart and artistic layout of colorfull images on the box scream "buy me and build me" Also a common standard in boxland! Everthing is neatly organized and sealed. The small ornaments and metal parts does look very good. After a look at the drawings however I recognize the Italian "style" of organized "chaos".... I will have a handfull on the poor drawings and poor instructions.... So, the wood looks nice doh... The pre-cut laser parts look good as well....just make sure I'll sand off the burn of the laser for a good fix between the wooden parts.... In a nutshell does the kit look very promising and a joy to build for sure. I'm not sure about some details, alternations and colorscheme yet, but this will become clear during my log of this build. Technical specifications and size Lengte: 830 mm Hoogte: 600 mm Schaal: 1:47 Part no: MM750 The build begins! Sheet 1 figure 1: it begins, bulkheads and "false" keel To start the build, first I have to number all the bulkhead parts and also the false keel. Preperation is everything they say... After numbering the parts, It's time to release them from their imprisonment! To clean up the parts, I use a 80grid sandpaper to sand off the burn of the laser. It's time to try a dry-fit of the parts. And I was very impressed with the overall fit of the parts. It didn't need to much adjustment at all and all fitted nicely. After this I will glue the parts into place, but that will be for the next update. The log and build has started and I hope you guys will follow me allong the way. See yah! Peter
  21. Just started this project as a gift from my grandchildren, as well as the box kit I also added the paint set, with brushes and cement from the shop after reading the instructions This was followed by balsa and a stanley knife after see this site when I got stuck The model build is well documented in HMS Victory by The Lazy Saint - Mantua - Scale 1:200 - Third wooden ship and I am sooooh very grateful for that effort, I would like to contribute the difficulties I find as an aid to any other novices stumbling the same path I just followed instructions and dry assembled to this step . I am uncertain as to cutting the masts which I inserted to align the decks because the dimensions dont say if from measurement is from the deck, or lower up to the limit of sitting on the keel so i'm reading the Anatomy of The Ship which i can probably scale the drawings to check
  22. This is my First Attempt at a Wooden Ship Model The Mantuna Hms victory Build 1/200 story so far one thing the guns are they all painted black, and the port coverings they are red underneath and side what on the top are they black
  23. Hi all, Here l am once again with my third wooden ship build. I have chosen this particular build for two main reasons, firstly, l would like to build HMS Victory but have not the room to display one of the large models l have seen, good grief, the Caldercraft example is bigger than the wife. The second reason is that I like the idea of posting the first completed build log for this particular model, l might be wrong, but l don't think one has been completed. The postman delivered my package today and l started on it immediately. I must admit to being a little apprehensive as l was a bit concerned as to why no other example has been posted, was it a poorly designed model, was the wood of poor quality, or perhaps, as someone remarked at the end of their attempt "it's un buildable". l will see, whatever the reason it will be a great challenge. And here she is, the box art is very nice even if what l find inside isn't. Well the paperwork, instructions and plans look great, so far so good. They look quite detailed and seem straightforward enough at first sight, although there seems to be a lot of numbers and arrows. I expect it will be clear when l study them. The nice colour instruction book looks interesting, these pictures should help no end, as they say "a picture paints a thousand words" It is written in several languages so, to make things a bit easier, l shall go through first highlighting all the English wording. All the fixtures and fittings (for want of a better phrase) look good, although l haven't undone the individual packets. The laser cut plywood is as good as you could want and l am very pleased with it l must say. The strips of wood for the planking is of a disappointing standard. Now, is it a disappointing standard because the rest is so good....... l shall have to carefully sand each strip before l use it. Here you can see the framework dry fitted, it was a very fiddly task but each piece fitted nice and snug. I am glad to report that my first impression of the wood quality and cutting precision was correct and everything is straight and true. Ha ha, Mantua recommend inserting the frames with a hammer, l do not. The wood is, as l have already said, good quality but not very robust. The stern pieces also fit well. During my next session l will look at filler blocks and the tapering of bulkheads. Best wishes as always, The Lazy Saint. Session. Time. Total. 01. 3 hrs. 3 hrs.
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