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Found 37 results

  1. This marks the start of my build of the Model Shipways Mayflower kit, designed by Chuck Passaro. This is the last kit in my possession to build. I've been following the Medway Longboat (1742) project with interest, but I will need to hold off on that project for future. Mayflower will be my third project and first actual ship build. Kit supplied wood will be used for the first layer of planking. I will be using cherry for any wood that will be left unpainted. Deck planking will be maple or cherry. I have yet to decide. Below the whales will be panted tallow. Modifications to the color scheme will be addressed as we are further along. Those of you who have followed my other projects know that I work slowly. I anticipate this project will take much longer than the previous ones. My goal is to attain a quality representation of the Mayflower. I received the Syren Serv-o-Matic serving machine at the end of my Pinnace project and have been sanding the char from the parts. I will be treating the wood with several coats of Wipe-on-Poly before assembling all parts. I will include photos in my next post. Included in this post are photos of Chuck's prototype of the Mayflower. Steve
  2. Hello All, I bought this kit - my first - in April 2011 and discovered the MSW site and forum soon after. It has been an invaluable source of inspiration and information and I was saddened to hear that a lot of work and information was lost recently when the site crashed. I'm sure the forums will soon be back to full-strength and hope that this build log will be a small contribution to that effort. It has been a slow build so far, but one which I am enjoying hugely. I'm determined to do a decent job, and not to rush or make silly mistakes. There's and old carpenters' saying: "Measure twice, cut once"; I've developed my own mantra: "Measure twice, stop, check the plans, measure again, have a cup of coffee and a think, measure again for luck, cut once!" Again, this is my first kit and build, so I have no real point of reference for comparison, but the kit (by Amati) seems to be of reasonable quality. The instructions are patchy and are mostly in Italian, so I've been relying on 'Google Translate' for some assistance. Here are some initial pics before moving on to the build: Packaging - nicely designed Photo on the box Contents Guide book and instructions (Italian & English) Plans (page 1/2) Plans (page 2/2)
  3. I have started this model a couple of years ago, but being my first attempt, realized that I was way out of my depth. I then put the build on hold and decided to try something simpler to develop my skills and try again. I have since completed the basic AL Mare Nostrum (loaded the pics in the Gallery), which taught me enough to build up the courage to try my hand at the Mayflower again. I have to say that the planking and other tutorials and knowledge on MSW(1 and 2) has been a tremendous aid in teaching me the basic skills. Thank you MSW! So this is where it is at the moment, I have put the bulkheads and keel together, decided to add extra balsa wood spacers between the bulkheads, as they felt a bit wobbly. The false decking has been installed, but the Ramin planks supplied for decking, is in my opinion, crap! Way to brittle and it does not sand to a smooth finish. Not sure if anybody else have had the same problems with Ramin, but I decided to replace it with Maple, so i'm waiting for delivery from Cornwall Model Boats. Since i'm living in the good old South Africa, this can take a while!
  4. Merchant ship Mayflower by Antony - Scale , 1600 as first built in Harwich UK. This is the Start of a Mayflower build. The main points are: - It has to be a Longitudinal section (from Bow to Stern) Must be large enough to give scale and details of the conditions aboard the Mayflower in the 1620’s. And be completed before the 400 Mayflower celebrations (16th September 2020). I have the plans from https://www.plimoth.com/products/mayflower-ii-model-ship-plans Thanks to Jaager here on MSW. https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/18809-mayflower-2-plans/ I also have the book :- The Mayflower and other colonial vessels. by William A Baker. And a Thanks to Druxey for pointing out a link. https://www.thenrg.org/resources/The_Journal/58-4%20Nautical%20Research%20Journal.pdf I will Not be building the ship from the plans I have But will maintain the basic shape from the plans. I will be putting in 3 decks. I think this is only way they would of built her in the early 16 century. Also I will be planking the inside of the Hull as it gives the model much more strength. Probably was not done on the original 1600 ship. There will be No rigging or mast on this model. Drawing are done in Adobe Illustrator CS2 which is my preferred drawing software. The Keel is of mixed timbers . 12 inch ruler and veneer is for scale comparison. Detail of Stern area. Not yet finished. Detail of Bow area. Not yet finished. Ribs cut out. Not yet fitted. Jig For holding Keel and Ribs. Yes its another monster size of model. But it will be fit for purpose.
  5. Last month I started the Model Shipways Mayflower. I noticed there are several build logs for the Mayflower but none are finished. I hope this is not a bad omen. I will use the first couple of posts to catch the log up with my current progress so apologies for the long posts. Initial thoughts upon opening the kit were the laser cutting and wood stock were typical of Model Shipways ie generally good quality. The instruction booklet looks well done with many pics to exhibit the build narrative. Looks to be well written as well. I am not great at picture taking so apologies in advance. First step was to create a small rabbet by adding strips along the false keel and a little shaving at the lower stern of the false keel. The bulkheads all needed a little tweaking to fit into the false keel slots but once done the fit was well aligned. I then glued them in place with Titebond. There are a few other supports to add to the stern as well as the three stern plates. These all fit and aligned perfectly. I should mention the bulkheads and stern plates all have reference lines pre-etched into them to facilitate alignment and give you a good idea where things should go. This is a great feature for a kit. Next up was to add the strips to support the openings for canon. All fit well and the plans were very clear on all above steps. Lots of fairing to the hull was next. I am never really certain when I have faired enough. I use the batten test but was the planks are actually glued in place there is always some difference in how they lie. A little more sanding is usually needed. Key for me is to go slow on this step. Once that was done the stern plate on the lower stern is planked. I used artist charcoal to simulate chalking. It does tend to get into the basswood a bit but cleans up with a light sand. Before starting to plank the hull the two side templates are temporarily attached to ensure proper alignment. The reference lines on the bulkheads are also helpful with this alignment.
  6. A new project for my daughter. She started Kindergarten. I am planning on giving this build to the Elementary School around thanksgiving. I know I am starting a bit late. I might be over my head...🤔
  7. So it starts! This kit is a birthday gift from my wife, and I've been looking forward to starting the build for a while now. The kit arrived a few weeks ago, and I did open the box for inspection purposes when it came, but decided to wait to start the kit until my birthday. I do need to pick up some paint, but was going to start trimming flash from the hull and deck parts. I say "was" because I promptly buried the exacto knife in my thumb. I feel dumb because I know how to handle sharp tools, but still manage to slip and cut myself... Grrr... So I decided to take a break for today... Noel C L Hackney's book on the mayflower was recommended in another one of my threads, and has been ordered, hopefully it will be a help in building this ship...
  8. Hi @ all! I would like to present here my ongoing project. It is the Mayflower from 1620 after the plans of Waldemar Nowy (Danzig, Poland) 1975: "Historic Sailship MAYFLOWER" (based on the Mayflower II) I started this build about in November 2010. I had several breaks during the build due to my private situation. At the moment I work on the cannons and the masts. Here are some pictures of my progress so far. I would also like to post some of my techniques I used as soon as time allows me to. Rgds, Radek
  9. My kit arrived today. I was surprised at how quick MS was in fulfilling my order! I've not done this vessel so any tips will be useful. I do watch You Tube but there is a dearth of Mayflower kits to be seen. I used what I can watching how other ships are built. I have one problem. How do I keep my cats from my build? I tried posting pictures of dogs but my cats, like the U.S. military, don't scare worth a damn.
  10. A friend of mine asked me to fix the rigging on his Mayflower model. I am going to do this as well as correct and/or rebuild parts of the model. Any input to this process would be greatly appreciated. Looking the model over, it appears to be a pond sail boat with a few likenesses to the Mayflower. No idea how old the model is or if I am correct. The owner received it as a gift and it there fore has a lot of attachment. Before I dive in I would be especially interested in any cautions such as the model is priceless the way it is don't touch, etc. looks like all of the blocks are hand made. At any rate any input or advice would be much appreciated.
  11. My build log went off into interspace in the Great Crash of ´13, but I have the photos, so I will try to resurrect it. It is my first build, so I have nothing to teach anyonewho knows what they are doing, but perhaps someone starting can learn from my mistakes. I had put the first plank on before I discovered Model Ship World, and learned how little I knew, and how it should have been done. So, acting on its advice, I took the plank off, and made the bow solid, with a ‘sandwich’ of thin pine planks, then put the plank back, as below. To be continued
  12. I'm starting this build log on the Mayflower from Model Shipways. I'm pretty new to this kind of modelling, so I'm hoping for as much advice and constructive criticism as I can get. The first thing that they want you to do is cut out the false keel and gently sand off the laser char. Then, you glue a piece of basswood called a 'rabbet strip' along the bottom edge and along the stern. This allows you sand or chisel the bottom rearmost part of the keel from its original 3/16" thickness to 3/32" below a predetermined mark called the 'bearding line', which is laser drawn on one side of the keel. (As the rabbet strip is 1/8" wide, it needs to be reduced to 3/32", which means that 1/64" is removed from each side. I first cut the rabbet strip down to about 3/32" in the area that need it, and then used a diamond dusted file to thin the keel as necessary. You can see this in the second picture, where the lighter colored rabbet strip is along the bottom of the keel, and the plywood has been thinned in the bottom left corner, thereby changing its color as the top layer was filed away.) I think that part went fine. But, I do have this question. I've taken a picture of the piece of plywood that the false keel was taken from, and then I've included a picture of both its long and short edges. Both of them have pretty noticeable warpage; and when I put the false keel onto a flat surface as it is in the second picture, there's about 2-3 mm of vault in the center. I've soaked it and left it to dry under some weights a couple of times, and it initially looks pretty flat, but after a few hours, it's back to the same warp. My understanding is that it's pretty important that the keel be straight in order to proceed effectively. I believe that I have a few choices: 1) keep soaking the keel, and drying it under weight on a flat surface, and hopefully it eventually will flatten out. 2) proceed with gluing on the bulkheads, and then put wood spacers between some of the bulkheads in order to force the keel straighter. 3) I read somewhere on this forum that you can multiply score one side of the keel, and then brush glue deep into the score marks, and clamp it between glass until it dries. Sounds complicated... 4) get a replacement part from Model Shipways. (I've heard that they have pretty good customer service.) I don't think that this is necessary, but I'll defer to the wisdom of the forum. Also, the plywood that contains the bulkheads is similarly warped. These are much smaller pieces, so the warping isn't as obvious as it is on the keel, but it is definitely there. (I've included a picture of one of the bulkheads with my finger holding down one side, showing that the other side lifts off the table.) Should I be worried about those too? Any suggestions?
  13. I bought the kit in 2008. This far I have: Glued the frames to the keelson Glued the decks in place I am now at the stage where I have to shape the ribs. I am not sure how much I must do this? How is the part that must be beveled measured? The instruction manual mention marking the the edge of the rib with a felt pen. I'm not sue how and by how much? I also, on advice, filled the front between the keelson and the front frame with soft wood to make planking easier. Did I do it right?
  14. This is the official start of my Mayflower build log though I have been posting pictures and comments for about a week on RichieG's log. Thanks RG for loaning me the space. I'll dispense with all of the photos of the box and its contents. This is the Modelshipways kit with the great 52 page instruction booklet by Chuck Passaro. Thank you Chuck for including this...its wonderful and actually was the deciding factor in my purchasing this kit. The booklet can be viewed on-line before buying the kit for anyone interested. http://www.historicships.com/TALLSHIPS/Model Shipways/Mayflower/MS2020-Mayflower-Instructions.pdf The kit arrived in 2 days even though I paid for 7-10 day shipping. Nice people at Model Shipways. I did a complete inventory of the parts and wood supply and was amazed at what accuracy everything was supplied. If there are supposed to be 80 pieces of planking, there are 80 pieces. Not 79 or 81, but 80. Same for stuff like cleats and rings and pins. The only thing I didn't count was tacks. I trust there will be enough. Now it remains to be seen if MS has allowed for some breakage and loss overboard. We shall see. My only disappointment is in the metal platforms or "crows nests" that are supplied pre-cast. They're a bit tacky. But MS probably knows this and the instructions detail how to scratch build your own from wood. Which I plan to do. Same for a capstan. Its going to be interesting working at 1:78 scale and in fractions. My only previous build, Bounty, was 1:48 and measured in metrics which I got very used to and find so much easier to use at these small sizes. Whatever happened to Jimmy Carter's plan to put the country on the metric system. Was supposed to happen within a decade. I guess we Americans don't give up our old ways easily. There are 4 sheets of plans which, along with the booklet, seem detailed enough. Without the booklet I would say they would be not quite sufficient. My only worry on receiving the kit was whether or not the profile former (used to be called the false keel), which from here on I am going to abbreviate as PF, would be warped. My Bounty false keel was a bit warped and I stubbornly pushed on with the build without attempting to get a replacement from Artesiana Latina. I think if I had waited I would still be waiting and that was 3 1/2 years ago. I know RichieG needed to return his and today I learned its either arrived or on its way. But mine is flat as a pancake if not quite as fluffy. So overall, my satisfaction with the quality of this kit and the bang for the buck is A+. I was looking for a model of historic importance that was not as large as Bounty (who has that kind of shelf space?), has some rigging but not nearly the degree of complex lines as Bounty had (and which in the end caused me to stop the build), and which I could have fun building with a lot less complications, research and questions. I think this Mayflower is going to accomplish all that.
  15. Since I am interested not only in modeling but also very much in reconstruction of ships of the 17th and 18th century I have started this project (several years ago). As a boy I have built a model of the Mayflower from a German kit (Graupner Modelllbau). The plans for this model were well drawn but historically certainly not correct. The model was obviously designed to resemble closely the Mayflower model designed and built by R C Anderson for the Pilgrim Society Plymouth, Mass. In the 1920s but the lines of the hull were certainly far away from authentic. The following 2 pictures show a model from a Graupner kit (although not mine) in comparison to a model built from R C Anderson's plans It has been on my mind for many years to try my own reconstruction of the Mayflower based on whatever reliable information could be found and when I found Chuck’s build log of his Mayflower model on MSW this idea came back. Regarding reliable information for a Mayflower re-construction one has to say that there are only two hard facts about the Mayflower: 1. nobody knows really what she has looked like, there are no plans, no pictures or paintings and no description of her available she had a burden of approx. 180 tons With the Mayflower we have the same situation as with other historic ships like the Santa Maria, Golden Hind and several others: we can reconstruct the ship only so far that we can say “she might have looked like this” using general information about ships of the period or documented dimensions of ships of similar size. Fortunately there are several contemporary documents available which enable us to determine the dimensions and the shape of a hull of known tonnage within certain limits. Apart from the so-called Fragments of Early English Shipwrigthy (Matthew Baker) the most important is a Treatise on Shipbuilding by an anonymous author believed to have been written about 1620 and on this my reconstruction attempt is mainly based. Furthermore I have used some other contemporary data and design rules mentioned in Brian Lavery’s „The Colonial Merchantman Susan Constant 1605”. Before starting the actual build log I’d like to present some parts of my plans (still far away from being completed): The next picture is a frame disposition in the style of the Navy Board models: and the last picture for today shows the current status of my model: Klaus
  16. Howdy Ya'll, This is my Revell Mayflower that I have been building on for a while. I had this very same kit when I was very young, and I never finished it. In fact, I built it up just enough to fill it with pennies, float it out in our lake and then sink it with gun fire from my pellet gun (true story). Anyway, I promised myself to build it again and actually finish it. Sorry that it isn't really a build from the beginning, but here it is. Just started doing the rigging. This one is going to be a straight build OOB.
  17. Hello everyone, I'm Felipe from Brazil, and I'll be sharing here my work on the Revell 1:83 Mayflower! Around two years ago I've started a topic here on a Pinta Caravel kit I was building, that project stalled because I've moved to college, were I don't have space nor time to work with wooden models, so I decided to sail to the waters o plastic kits. After a lot of research I've decided to buy the Revell Mayflower, great kit, beautiful ship and nice scale. Before starting it I built the 1:200 Academy New Bedford Whaler, just to feel more comfortable with the material, although I've built some plastic models before, they were never ships. I started the kit by paiting the decks, my intention was to use AndyMech's technic, it worked and it is amazing, slow but easy. I ended up with an weatered effect, the decks look old very used, I don't now how accurate that is for the original Mayflower, but I am very satisfied with the result! For those who don't know the procedure I'll quote AndyMech: "Next up was the gun deck painting. I was going for a wood deck look without actually planking the deck. Overall, I remember the steps as: - Deck were spray painted black (seen previously) - I applied a base coat of "wood" color - Using the back of a #11 knife, I scored each plank line - I mixed a little darker and lighter "wood" color paint by adding a few drops of black and white, then individually painted each plank a random color. - Probably had to re-score the plank lines again. - Final step was to apply either a wash or drybrush black onto the deck for some detail and depth. I tried both wash and dry brush and was happier with the dry brush effect." First test: Painted the pieces with a layer of black, using a nylon brush: Proceded to paint the decks with a light brown color, and started to score the lines: This technic needs practice, the amount of black paint needes to be right, too little and while scoring you will end up taking out all paint and leaving plastic to be seen, too much and you loose all detail of wood grain. The brown layer also needs attention, I made it thin because I feared more paint wood hide the wood grain, that left me with a dirtier look, of old used wood in bad condition. If the intention is for a brand new look I believe that many layers of very thin paint would be best! Also the scoring and scratching: I did it in many diferent ways, almost randomly after noticing that trying to be very precise scoring each plank is not very helpfull. Thats all for today, following are some pics of the hull dry-fitted just for fun(and a little friend):
  18. Hello everyone, Welcome to my build log of the Model Shipways "Mayflower". For those who have been following my build of the US Brig Syren, I have decided not to build it at this time. These two models require a similar level of experience yet have their own set of challenges. I have decided to build the Mayflower for those challenges that I feel are more to my level of experience. Chuck has done a superb job with the Mayflower instructions and there are some excellent build logs here on MSW. I would appreciate any help or suggestions that you might have as I move along. ● Clamp setup for first bulkhead: Hours after removing the bulkhead former from the sheet I noticed that it was curved but not warped. After all the bulkheads are glued in place I will attempt to straighten the former. ● Clamp setup for remaining bulkheads: ● Bulkheads and filler pieces glued into the bulkhead former: The initial fit was generally tight. When fitting the bullheads I allowed for the PVA glue swelling the wood by sanding in a very small amount of bulkhead movement past 90° fore and aft. ● Curved bulkhead former before straightening: Straightening was achieved aft of bulkhead "A" in three steps. 1. Blocks were inserted between the formers A&B and C&D to prevent this area of the hull from moving while attaching the "dummy cannon support strips". 2. These support strips were used to straighten 90% of the curve by pulling the hull straight and pinning the strips in place before gluing. 3. Blocks were inserted between bulkheads 3 and 3b in order to correct the remaining curve in this area. Straightened hull ● Eye bolt: This was formed using a 1/8" dowel and then compressing its shape into an oval. Photo shows eye bolt temporarily in place before priming and painting the inside of the two "fore mast Fillers" and eye bolt black with Badger 16-01 Engine Black. Testors Dull coat was used to flatten the finish. ● Gun Port Framing: I will be using boxwood as the primary wood for the model. Although the gun port framing will not be seen I wanted to see what it was like to work with. No complaints at all and I really like getting clean crisp edges easily. After the bottom gun port frame was glued into place a 1/4" balsa sheet, of a consistent thickness, was cut into small filler pieces to maintain an equal distance between the two gun port frames while the top frames were being glued. Later, this greatly eased the process of making the small vertical pieces for the ports. I have no idea why the small block between C&D was there so I removed it after the photo was taken. I made a test piece for the vertical frames to see if the angles were similar for both the top and bottom. It turns out that they were at approximately 10.5°. All I had to do was cut one angle with the help of the disk sander and then measure 1/4" and cut the other in parallel. Very little sanding was needed to achieve a nice fit. Were the gun ports angle upwards at the bow and stern a slight angle was sanded in the opposing direction to account for the tilt of the vertical strip. After the stern pieces XX, YY and ZZ were glued in, the hull was faired and the four false decks were glued into position. Once dry they were later faired into the hull shape.
  19. This build is moving in parallel with my Willie Bennett, had to wait to get some supplies for the Willie so moved this forward a bit and will be moving between the two as steps allow/dictate. I happened to see some build logs of other members who worked on this particular kit from Model Shipways and was reading great things about the quality of the kit and the experience of putting her together. The Phantom kit I had finished was a “build for free” offer which afforded the opportunity of applying the cost of the Phantom towards another Model Shipways kit – so the Mayflower it is! We start this adventure the same as so many others – the kit itself The documentation is pretty straightforward really, instruction booklet, parts manifest and 4 large double sided plan sheets. We then have multiple sheets of laser cut parts We then finish our tour of the box contents with the usual suspects of assorted fittings and metal bits. I do appreciate that it comes with pin striping for the windows. I also was happy to see a display board with mounts! (It’s the little things)
  20. I have been around here for a couple of months reading and admiring other builds, I decided it is finally time to add my little bit. My current build is the AL Mayflower @ 1:64, I started this in June of this year. I won't bother you with the build from the start but will show you how she looks today and will do my best to keep you updated. When I started this build it was my intention to change most of the wood as being recently retired and having lots of time I wanted to utilize my arsenal of new tools. With that I have used pear, blood wood, maple, Osage orange and a couple of veneers I am not sure of the names. When I started this hobby in January of this year I also bought all of Bob Hunt's practicums, so I am also using this a guide. Here are the pictures: There are more coming, it is saying the files are too big although they are all the same size, I will figure it out and send more in a bit
  21. Paragon – a Modified Mayflower Part 1 - INTRODUCTION I started ship modeling in early 2012, and after I finished a couple of kits during that year, my wife half-jokingly said to me that as long as I’m building ship models, I should build “Paragon, the Mad Ship”. This was a character in a series of fantasy novels that we both enjoyed, called the ‘Liveship Traders’, by the author Robin Hobb. The theme of the series is that merchant ships were built of a special wood called ‘wizardwood’, and that after a time the figurehead would come alive and have its own personality. Paragon was a Liveship with a figurehead in the shape of a man. Paragon had been mistreated by its owner and consequently developed a negative outlook and a pretty nasty disposition. In fact, he had turned on his owners and crew, and legend was that he had killed them all. The townspeople called him the Mad Ship, and shunned him. This picture is from the jacket of the book. There were no detailed descriptions of the Liveships in the series of books other than descriptions of the figureheads, since these were personalities within the story. The descriptions of clothing, houses, modes of transportation, and weapons, gave the impression that the period was similar to western civilization in the 1500 – 1600’s. There were no firearms mentioned in the stories, so the ships did not carry cannons. Paragon, and all of the Liveships, were merchant sailing ships that generally gave the impression of ships from the era of explorers. I decided that this would be my first scratch build, but I felt that I needed a good set of plans and building instructions, so I looked for a kit that would be a good base of this fictional ship. I was able to buy plans for the Mayflower, from Model Shipways. The instructions for the kit are available as a free download PDF written by Chuck Passaro, the author of the Phantom instructions that I had already used. Chuck designed the Mayflower kit, and his practicums and instructions are clearly written and present a logical building sequence. The kit model calls for quite a bit of painting, but I decided to ‘paint with wood’ – choosing different woods to show the different colors in the ship. I’ve been working on the ‘Paragon’ since mid-2013, and it’s almost ready for rigging. I’ve been recording my progress along the way, so I thought I’d start this build log to show how I built the ship, and especially to discuss the many mistakes and lessons learned. Much of the building was trial and error (in some cases too many errors and do-overs!) and I hope this log will help others that are thinking of doing their first scratch build. There are some steps that didn’t get captured in photos (I was too busy muddling my way through and forgot the camera). Most of the photography was done with my iPhone, so please excuse some of the poor photo work. Here’s a photo of the current state of the Paragon. I was able to find most of the wood I would use through shopping at local woodcraft and wood supply stores. I decided to use African Pear and Madrone for the hull planking, bulkhead planking, and some visible construction elements. Castello Boxwood would be used for some pieces of ‘deck furniture’ - gratings, knees, capstan, etc. Walnut is used for some deck furniture and moldings. Other moldings were from Holly, Yellowheart, and Bloodwood. I used Sycamore for deck planking. The ship has a couple of black wales, but I didn’t want to mess with Ebony so I used Chimken and stained it to look like Ebony. Since this build is a fictional ship, I’ve been able to use some ‘poetic license’. The ship doesn’t have cannons, so I could skip that part. Since the figurehead will be a prominent part of the ship I needed to redesign the beakhead. I’ll be adding some fancy work to give it a ‘mystical’ appeal, but I’m leaving that until the end.
  22. This model has a very questionable pedigree. While visually based on the R.C. Anderson design, it really has detail and design more in common with the old Megow wooden kit from the 1930's-40's. This is my attempt to make it more like the Anderson version, which still exists at the Addison Gallery of the Phillip's Academy. It is also another step as I try to rehabilitate and rebuild my skills as a model builder. To start, I needed to find a scale for the model. Like so many of the plastic sailing ship kits from the 1960's, it has no real stated scale (indeed, the box art even depicts another version of the Mayflower!). Based upon Anderson's stated dimensions in "A Mayflower Model" (Mariner's Mirror, vol. 12, 1926), 64' keel, 26' beam, a scale of approximately 1/250 was determined. Construction began in earnest on 24th October, 2015. Initial construction consisted of making "timbers" from sheet styrene (an old garage sale sign). The two gunports were blanked as well.
  23. Hi, I am working on the MS model (#2020) of the Mayflower for my grandchildren. They've decided that they want sails on the ship and the plans that come with this kit do not include schemes for sails. The model is scaled at 5/32". Rigging is likely to need enhancement, and I feel I can work out any modifications. Do any members have plans or drawings that would give me dimensions and rigging plans for sails? Appreciate any help. Was given Chuck Pasaro's name, as he drew the plans, but have no email address for him. Thanks, Chris
  24. Reading this forum has helped me so much, so I though of sharing my first build project with Mayflower by Constructo kit. Specially pictures have been great help because these instructions (at least for a newbie) has been awful. Secondly I didn't exactly know what I actually started, before I needed to do first hull plank pending... Since I started this project few weeks ago, I try to put dates to different phazes that might help some newbie like me getting the understading how long it takes . Project starting 10.4. 12.4. Keelson, frames and false decks glued. These were ready cut parts so it was simple. First mistake: At this point I measured ~ish by eye that everything was in 90 degress angle (I come to this later, but it might be that this caused a slight pending of the hull later (or the fact that I used slightly force in hull plank pending).

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