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  1. Started this model in 1997 but shelved it until lots of “give-back” time not needing to commute as I’m working from home during COVID.
  2. This is my forth build, after completing my last build the 18th Century Longboat by Shipways this should be an easier build for me. Although I did learn a tremendous amount my failures and successes on the previous build.
  3. Hello all. I am new to the forum and getting back into ship models after about a 13 year hiatus. I am starting out small and relearning the proper way to build a ship rater than what I have done previously (although those did not turn out to bad). Got this kit as a Christmas gift and have made a bit of progress. I think I will work on getting the hull of this kayak about as smooth as I can get it since believe the full size versions are fiber glassed over any wood to seal them. Previously I have build he Swift, Lobster Smack and Constellation (AL, Midwest, and AL respectively) although the Constellation is still waiting on the rigging for the main and mizzen masts... for 12 years.
  4. This will be my first kit build log on MSW and my second wood boat build. The Sakonnet Daysailer, a 1937 club "one-design" boat, designed by John G. Alden. Joe
  5. I am a complete newbie to model ship building. I've built some plastic models long ago, have painted gaming miniatures and terrain to a good standard, and have some basic carpentry and woodworking skills and tools, so blending all that together into model ship building seems approachable. For my first build, I wanted something small and simple - small so that I could be absolutely certain I'd complete it in a reasonable time, and simple so that I could concentrate on learning the basic skills well. Some web searching brought me here and also turned up a detailed tutorial on building Midwest's Flattie at themodelshipwright.com. Even though that tutorial is basically just an illustration of following the directions, it's nice to have a few extra pictures and tips. I also attended college in Annapolis (St. John's) and have spent some time on the waterways of the area, so the little Flattie speaks to me a bit. So, the Chesapeake Flattie it is! Again, a big reason for going with a small model is to focus on a doing an excellent job of the basics. So I'm especially appreciative of suggestions for improving my technique for the future. Let's get to it... here she is, fresh from Amazon: I lay the parts out for an inventory. Everything is here, and there are no obvious miscuts or damage. I read through the first few pages of instructions thoroughly at this point, and skim the rest. Nothing too surprising or intimidating here, and I'm comfortable with the flow of the build and how the various parts should fit together. Very newbie-friendly. I cut out the frames carefully, sand the edges lightly, and do a quick dry fit and inspection: Some problems show up right away. Frame F4's slot is too narrow to slide on. Frame F3's slot is too wide and allows the frame to wobble. Frame F1 rides a bit too high above the top of the keel... The quality of the die-cuts varies. Some frames are fine, but some are clearly asymmetric. F4 is the worst of the bunch - though the pic is crooked too, you can see the cuts at the bottom clearly don't match. All of these issues are resolved easily enough with a little time, either taking off extra wood with a needle file or adding a tiny shim with CA glue and filing that down. After those adjustments, the frames match the plans well and don't show any obvious asymmetries when examined against the grid on my cutting mat. (Link to a future post about Mastini's method.) I cut the square stripwood according to the plans, trace the extended lines from the plans onto the frames, glue them in place with wood glue (applied with a paintbrush), and clamp with a micro-clamp to dry: The frames prepped to go: They look pretty good. You can see a jaggie at the bottom of F4 - I didn't cut the shim to the full length of the edge because it was only the outside corner that was short. I should have just done the whole length, but I think this will be fine. F1 fits the keel correctly now: The braces on F3 and F4 are close, but not quite flush with the keel where the cabin floor will sit: The brace for F4 just needed to be glued a tiny bit higher, but I wasn't seeing clearly at the time how the brace was going to fit with the keel. The F3 brace, on the other hand, is dead flush with the side slots, but the die cuts for those slots don't quite match up with the center one. I could try to clean this up by sanding down the keel line between those frames, or by using a shim to shorten the center frame slots. Bbut I'm not sure if it's going to matter or if that could throw off the fit of any other pieces. Suggestions welcome. That's all for now. I probably won't be able to get back to building until next weekend.
  6. This is my first build log and I expect it will progress in fits and starts with many mistakes along the way. I have been building models off and on for 50 years. Mostly plastic cars and planes when I was a kid progressing to simple wooden boats later on. The last 20 years have been taken up with family and job but now that I am retired I have gotten back into the hobby and have time to work on models. This model is the Midwest Maine Peapod in 1" = 1' scale. I have built a few of the Midwest offerings and generally like the kits but they do have a few problems that I will point out as the build progresses. The first is the poor support for the building forms. As I mentioned on another forum it was necessary to use scrap from the kit to reinforce the strongback as can be seen in the following pic. The edges of the forms are coated with bees wax to keep any stray glue from sticking the planks to the forms (I hope). As you can see I have a couple of planks in place. Planks are fastened with Gorilla 10sec super glue at the stems and a very small amount of Elmers white glue along the seam.
  7. I had ordered what I thought would be my first build, the AL Swift, but the day after ordering it I was at Hobby Lobby looking for anything I thought I might need for the build that I didn't already have. I noticed the Dinghy, and after reading the box decided to buy it and work on it until the Swift came. It was $25 and I had a 40% off so easy decision. It was a great decision for me. Even though it is small with minimal parts, I still had to sand, shape, shim, fix mistakes, learned the instruction sheet is not always correct. I got "into" the build and away I went. I wasn't going to post a build log for it, but have decided this would also be a good learning experience for the future builds. I have most of it done but will just post some each day for a little while. I also hope to add a few things that other first timers might be able to use. I will try to add a picture to this post to see how it turns out. John
  8. I've decided to put the Phantom down for awhile the final deciding factor was that during my move I some how lost the wire that was supplied with the kit.So while I'm trying to find some wire to replace the original I'm going to start this kit. this will be my first attempt at planking, this seems like a good beginners kit. I've also purchased the 18th Century Long Boat and the English Pinnace for future builds. I think I'll stick to building boats for awhile and learn how to plank on them before I take on a model ship.
  9. I received the Dinghy kit made by Midwest in the mail today. I bought it off of eBay used for about $10. The previous owner started to build it, but stopped after the first couple of steps. All the pieces were there except for the 2 forward frame pieces, but I had plenty of scrap to make new ones. I used the pre-cut sheet that the frame pieces were in to make a template of forward frames. Here are the templates And the templates traced on to the scrap and here is the completed forward frames The Dinghy with all the frames, stern and transom attached and after a good soak in water. I ended up using some small screws to hold it on the jig because the push pins didn't want to hold at all. Now she will dry over night and I'll try to get back to it tomorrow.
  10. My next project I'm starting tonight is a Midwest Products Sakonnet Daysailer. Here is a picture of the box art and what the boat should look like once completed.
  11. Here is my progress so far on my Midwest Products Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. [url=http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/shawn32671/media/DSC02096_zps06dbfa74.jpg.html]
  12. I started this build log a little more than a year ago; unfortunately it was lost in the great crash. I wasn’t too far along when life intervened to take up my time on this little boat. I’ll post the older photos and then move along from there. More photos in the next couple of days. Thanks for looking!
  13. I Thought I'd take a little break from my other builds and try the Chesapeake Bay Skipjack by Midwest Products. So far I have the keel and decks finished. More updates to follow soon.
  14. I saw another model Sakonnet being modeled on here after I picked up my kit and thought I would post a log as well. I picked this kit up for a very modest price of $10 at a swap meet and didn't even know if it was complete but the instruction were and I figured I could scratch build any missing parts. I'm new to ship modeling but have done quite a lot of planes and cars, mostly plastic. I figured I would tackle this with a small project before attempting a larger one. I've got my follow on projects already planned, a MS Rattlesnake vintage carved plug that was given to me for dirt cheap and I'd like to scratch build a Clipper or the 1797 Constellation. I know pretty ambitious but here is my start to this Alden Classic. Started with the keel, it was already punched out with a few chunks from the rudder area, so I figured I might try and hinge it? I dry fit the frames and then glued them. I didn't have a fancy alignment jig, so I squared them up with clothes pins and a tiny metal machinist ruler I have. I beveled the transom bulkhead at the top to accept the deck by carving it away with my hobby blade and then rough sanding. I then attached the deck with rubber bands to clamp it and added the stringers, I had to cut one of the 1/16th stringers(Chines) out of balsa as the kit supplied piece was not long enough for both. So far so good, next I'm going to prime all the inner areas with some clear coat before smoothing the frames for interior paint. I took some time to also to trace out the frame pieces to build a follow on kit in the future as well. I really love this style of small sailboat. My real life Daysailer is a 1969 Ghost 13 by Janus, it's fiberglass but it gets us out on the water.
  15. This is my first Build log, and I am excited to be able to add my Boat to the Lobster Smack Regatta. Here is a Brief History : The Muscongus Bay Sloop was the forerunner of the renowned Friendship Sloop. This early version was a centerboarder with jib and mainsail and its hull was most commonly lapstrake planked and wall-sided. According to Howard Chapelle, the clipper bow, counter stern and strong sheer of the sloop indicates the boat was developed during the Civil War period, and built most prominently in Bremen, Maine. Most of these sloops had fish wells and were between 16 and 26 feet in length. They were used extensively in the lobster fishery and sometimes for hand lining. The boats traditionally did not have shrouds, and the gaff was hoisted by a single halyard. The centerboard Muscongus remained popular into the early 1890s and was then rapidly replaced by the keel model. The shift to the keel is believed to have been done in the interest of safety as the boats went further offshore. (Chapelle, Howard I. American Small Sailing Craft, 1951)
  16. My girlfriend ordered the Fantail Launch II for me for Christmas and it's supposed to come via UPS tomorrow. Awesome, now I can build that and install my steam engine I built from a Midwest kit and add radio gear and run it at a pond this coming spring. I will post build updates as I go....wayyyy too many projects at once here but I sure love this hobby lol.
  17. Inspired and encouraged by Mario, DeeDee and Hexnut I have started my Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack phase 1. Right before MSW went from v1 to v2 I went out and bought this kit along with the Midwest Sakonnet Daysailer. The Daysailer was my first wood boat kit and I learned a lot. I have since purchased a second Smack kit hence the phase 1/phase 2 reference. Following Mario's build as a primer I am currently building Smack #1 pretty much straight out of the box. I did plank the deck and floor with HO scale 2x10's from Northeastern Scale Lumber Co. and was very pleased with the results. I started the build over the Fourth of July weekend and thought the red, white, and blue color scheme was called for. I hope to follow this build with a totally bashed version a'la DeeDee but let's get this one built first. I have attached iPad Picts of where I am now with the build. Glad to join the Smack club. Pete
  18. Well here we go, have drawn in a deep breath and now launching my first build log. The chosen boat is a Boston Whitehall tender which I should say was not my first choice. I actually ordered HMB Endeavour by Caldercraft and then realised I was getting in way out of my depth. So you can see it sitting on the shelf of my new workshop..... so I ripped them all off and started again. this time I used an electric plank bender which after much trial and error started giving a good result. Luckily there were TWO sheaves of planks in my kit - I can only assume by mistake as the check list only mentions the 48 planks in one of the sheaves. Anyway, plenty of spare planks which I can see I am going to need.... at this point I have reached an impasse as I have started tapering the planks off too late (i think). And when you look at the port side from another angle you can see how the clinker effect has built up............... furthermore on the starboard side I found a gap was building between the planks and the forms and I thought that was just going to result in grief. In a desperate measure I carefully removed the last 4 planks and rather savagely cut a taper into them as can be seen here: which leaves me wondering what to do now to deal with the clinker effect and what technique to use to complete the planking through to the dreaded Garboard plank. I have seen it written that the Garboard plank should be last But I can´t help feeling I should get it done now and then try to fill the gap. It also struck looking through some of the fantastic build logs on this site that most builds involve bulkheads against which planks can be supported and glued and/or pinned. In the case of my Tender, they are just forms which must be removed so cannot be used for securing the planks. Doesnt that make this model rather more difficult when it comes to a first experience with planking.....(ok, so here I am blaming the model for my bad work !!). would appreciate any hints as I really want to move to the next stage but want to try and get it right. If I have to start again then no probs......as i said, I have plenty of spare planking ! thanks Simon
  19. Well, the hiatus on my Niagara continues.... The story goes something like this: One day I am walking around Hobby Lobby with my seven year old, Eva, and we stumble upon the section of the store containing dollhouses. Well, they had this monstrosity there in the color red and her eyes got as big as dinner plates and I watched as her face lit up like few times I have seen before. With Christmas and then her birthday right around the corner, it was a no-brainer. Needless to say, I was back the next week with a coupon for 40% off and I made the purchase of a dollhouse KIT (I stress the kit part which means massive and painstaking assembly required). Soooo.... My plans to cut some rigging out of the Niagara and re-rig her were quickly put to rest to imagining my youngest daughter's delight. While there I did spot the Midwest Products Skiff kit on clearance for $12.00. Why not buy it and put to rest some of the questions at work about how scale model ships and boats are made? This kit is great for work as my desk measures an impressive four feet wide (LMAO) and is dominated by two large flat screen monitors. A few tools and the kit and I would have onlookers galore! The Midwest kit is a great kit for beginners and is wonderful for fulfilling my model ship sickness until the dollhouse at home is complete. The scale is 1/12th and I will be replacing the plywood pieces with extra strips of planking I had from an old AL kit. I am doing this in the hopes of recreating an old skiff (before plywood was all the rage) that has been beaten and worn down. I will be painting it and stressing the paint and will place my creating in a shadowbox to hang on the wall next to some pictures of lighthouses. My saga begins....
  20. I was digging around my spare room upstairs where I keep my hobby stuff and while looking for something I found a Midwest Products Canadian Canoe. I had started building the model a couple of years ago and put it away to work on something else and totally forgot I even had it. I really want to get better at planking before I start my Artesania Latina Swift Ship Kit so I'm going to try to finish this kit next. Anyway, here's what I'd had finished so far. Hope you all like it. The first picture showing the start of the build is not my picture but one I found online. I hadn't taken pictures until what you see in the next build progress picture but wanted to show what it starts out as. Sorry for the blurry picture.
  21. I recently purchased a couple Midwest Products small boats to build until i'm more in the mood to build more on my tall ships. I bought the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack and the Main Peapod and just finished the peapod. I mainly bought the Peapod to better acquaint myself with hull planking and it turned out pretty nice. I still need to build the lobster trap in the instructions but saving that for later and still deciding on a paint scheme. I posted a build progress video on youtube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZqn-OxwAxM and adding some pictures here also...I hope you like it.
  22. Once upon a time, this build log contained a lot of high quality photos showing lots of detail. But many photos have gone repeatedly missing - The photos in this first post have gone missing / been replaced three times. It's more than just a glitch. I try to keep up with restoring the photos...... There are lots of photos on pages 3 and 5! Most of the build photos, I also posted on Picasa, so if you have a specific question, please send me an IM and I will send you the link to Picasa. Midwest models are amazingly close to the drawings in Chappelle’s book, they’re fun to build and learning. Following Mario’s lead, I’m adding lots of detail to my Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack build and having fun! I’ve added the fish wells, a cabin with floor and centerboard trunk. The rudder will also be a working rudder. At this point, I checked the instruction book to see just how far along I was – It was a shock when I realized I was only on step 17. These fish wells are too deep and the cabin floor should have been lower. This would have given the space to add the bunk on the port side. I added a second layer of decking and fish well covers. The original deck consisted of three pieces of wood: the deck and two well covers. This deck consists of 68 pieces of wood. There will be full access to the cabin. You can just barely see the centerboard hinge pin at the base of the trunk. Also added a ‘step’ for access. If the floor was lower, I could have added the bunk on the port side. It was fun adding the fish wells, centerboard trunk access and the covers. The covers will be held secure with a piece of chain. These wells are much too deep. I painted the wells with silver paint to simulate tin lining. For the centerboard trunk, I carved away some of the keel, then added some sides and painted it black. I attached an eye hook for the rope and I’ll attach the handle. In almost all Midwest sailboats, the cockpit floor is too small. First I added planking to the kit floor, then added width to the kit floor, but had to sand a lot off when fairing the frame. Now this cockpit floor will fit tight against the sides of the hull. This brings me current. At this point in the build, the kit calls for ~20 individual pieces of wood. So far, I think I am close to 180 individual pieces of wood used in this build. I need to install the rudder and tiller before finishing the hull. I think I should have done this before I added the deck. As for the hull, I’m thinking about doing the hull in lap-strake planks. Any suggestions would be appreciated.. Thanks for looking, your thoughts, suggestions are always appreciated Dee Dee (Edited on 5/27/13 to add photos again) (Edited on 9/07/13 to add 'SMALL' to title) (Edited on 11/26/14 to add back photos - again!) (Edited on 4/09/15 to add back photos for the third time) .
  23. I'm just adding a build thread I had on MSW 1.0. A couple of fellow modelers had asked if I was going to add it back to 2.0. I said i was but now that i am on vacation and taking time out from our spring cleaning and I won't be modeling anytome soon I thought this would be a good time to add it back. This was the very first time I had ever started a build log with ant type of forum what so ever. So the only thing I had saved was the pictures. I only use infomation I was able to pick up on the www. Since at that time I knew nothing of Howard Chapelle. So when i started this log is also the time I meet my good buddy John aka Jim Lad who encouraged me and helped me along with his experience. I purchased this kit used on ebay for a sum of 10.00 dollars american. It was started by the previous onwer of the kit. The the glue joints were glued together badly. i dismantle the evrything to start anew. Since today these work boats are now mostly used as day sailers I decided to do my best to create a boat with that theme in mind.... Please be patient with me as I add the photos. When you start a build log you just don't notice these things. But i have over 150 photos to add..........yikes!!!! (so I might not add them all in one night) So here are all the pictures...and I hope you enjoy them...
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