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Found 6 results

  1. I started a log with a few photos of my build on this site before the great crash - then my own computer crashed and I lost some photos myself. I've been building so I decided to take the time (we can't wait until we have enough) to start the log again. Reading the logs and responses on this site and seeing the museum quality work, I know the kind words and encouragement you all give. I also know any criticisms or suggestions is entirely for the best. So I post this log to give and receive as much help as possible. These are some of the original pics. My gosh this kit has some fragile parts! Now some of the gun port framing. Ship's boat. I shifted to this to get up the nerve to start planking. Plus that, it just looked fun. This is a small 'bread and butter kit' inside the Rattlesnake kit. The instructions give a hint to glue all the layers together using the stem guides except the last one, that will make sanding the inside easier. I say stack them together, mark the lines and sand as much as you can separately, then glue them together. It's a very small space Sorry blurry. Stapler holding down the layers
  2. As I was finishing up the MS 18th Century Longboat, I noticed that the “third in a series of progressive model tutorials” by David Antscherl became available. My first build was the MS ‘Lowell Grand Banks Dory’ and it was a great learning experience. Then I built the MS ‘Norwegian Sailing Pram’ which was the second model in the series, it to was a great learning tool. So now I’m going to try the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack based on a positive experience with the first two of the tutorial series. I inventoried the contents of the box and all of the parts appear to be there, except that the two ‘Cabin Bulkhead side guides’ were missing from the sheet. It looks like they might have fell during processing the kit and bagging the laser cut sheets. I think I will be able to make the parts from the left over stock since they are simple. Also, sheet 8 was labeled sheet 7. Spine & Centerboard Instructions Step 1 says to start with the Starboard Spine piece and the three center spine pieces. It calls out sheet 1, 2, 3 but sheet 2 has the Port Spine piece which confused me for a few minutes since I wasn’t sure if I should use the Port or Starboard spine piece. Looking at both the Port and Starboard (sheet 5 not 2) spine pieces and the picture on page 4, I confirmed that I should use the Starboard spine piece on sheet 5, this way the laser markings for the future bulkhead pieces was on the outside of the spine. The red sheet call out for Step 1 of the instructions should reference Sheets 1, 3, 5. The starboard spine and center spine pieces glued up nicely, I did use clamps to hold them together while the glue set instead of a weight as the instructions suggests.
  3. It’s been far too long since my last post. The Mayflower is on hold and I need to get back into building. I came across this Model Shipways kit designed by David Antscherl. While the workshop is in transition, this seems the perfect project to restart the modeling engine. The bottom three planks were glued and sanded when dried. Next, the six bottom cleats were cut and sanded to an appropriate width. The instructions state 1/8” width strip, but this does not match the laser marks on the floorboards or the drawings. Did Model Shipways change the original measurement of this strip? Anyway… Assembly and installation of the stem, transom, and stern knee concluded today’s work. It is good to be back! Steve
  4. I'm going to do a build log even though my model is nearing completion. If nothing else, it will remind me of what I've done, both good and bad. There are certainly a lot of areas I can improve on in the next build, which is yet to be determined. So here's the beginning with the frame, bulkheads, and spacing blocks. Spacing blocks were cut on table saw from scrap wood and make alignment super easy.
  5. Ladies and gentlemen, there is no more postponing it. Time to start my building log. About 20 years late, but hey, better late than never. I am taking great pains to make sure I properly title this log, ccoyle, and I hope to do you proud. In 1995, when I was beginning my residency training, I invested about $130 in the Model Shipways kit for the Pride of Baltimore 2. I had built some simpler models and would complete at least one other before cracking open the Pride 2 box. But it was exciting to know that it was there waiting for me to wrap up my other projects. It would be the first serious fully rigged model I would build. Looking at the 6 sheets of plans really got the imagination going. Exciting, yes, but also terrifying for a young model builder to look at. The details are overwhelming. Just the bowsprit netting seemed to suggest that I would never be able to complete it! It is now 2017. My wife and I now have two boys who are 15 and 17 years old. Since 1995, the internet has come into existence and so has Model Ship World. So this building log will involve a lot of “retrospective” posts. At the current time, the foremast is installed and rigging of the foremast and bowsprit is proceeding. But I figured it is never too late to begin a builders log even if it is retrospective. I am doing pretty good photo documentation as of a couple of years ago; the documentation of the early phases of building the model is more scant. I actually started building the hull in 1997, and worked on it feverishly leading up to the arrival of our first son in 2000. Once he arrived, the hull got put away, relegated to the top shelf of a closet. There was just no time. But fortunately, I did think to take some pictures of the hull as it was being built. I recently uncovered these prints, and had to scan them into the computer in order to be able to attach them. How far we have come… These pictures date from about 1998-1999, when we were still living in an apartment during my training. In retrospect, I am amazed by how intuitive the planking process was. About 8 years later, when I went to my first model building symposium, I listened to a talk about planking technique and remember thinking, “Hey, that’s the way I did it!”. I wish I could remember how many weeks it took me to plank the hull. But I wasn’t keeping track of the time I spent on the model. I don’t remember what source I used to learn about nibbing planks and stealer planks. I think they were described in the kit’s instruction manual. This wasn’t my first planked hull, but it was the first time I applied those techniques. There is a gap in photo documentation between finishing the planking and painting the hull. The bulwarks planking and rail also get added during that time. The transom was also planked, but that would get pulled off later in favor of a sheet of basswood with the ship's name engraved in it. I built a cradle out of scrap wood to stabilize the hull for the process of planking the deck. I have no picture documentation of that process, but it proceeded very logically, even more easily than the hull planking. The coamings for the cabintops and hatches were installed prior to planking. Better hurry, that baby’s coming! No more modeling for a while after he gets here… But before it got put away, I was fortunately able to install the foc’s’le hatch and the aft cabintop. I also installed the deck hatch aft of the cabintop. The last of the attached images is how things looked once the model got placed in cryogenic storage on the top shelf of the closet in the house we moved into when I finished training. Hey, I got a lot done, in retrospect! Next post: the model gets resurrected after a long hibernation...
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